Mpressive Threadz Studio

Transcription

1 Mpressive Threadz Studi Sewing Schl Prject # 1 Drafting Yur Six- gre Skirt and Fitting It The six gre skirt is easy t draft, easy t sew, and easy t fit. It has a gentle flare t it and it flatters all bdy types. Yu need: One sheet f 8 ½ x 11 heavy bnd paper (t use t square lines) A pencil A tape measure A yard stick r straight rule Muslin fabric (cheap wven cttn, slid light clr). 45 Yardage = 3 times the length f yur skirt r 60 yardage = 2 times the length f yur skirt Thread (any clr) Yur sewing machine Yur scissrs Sme straight pins A piece f ribbn, elastic r string that yu can tie arund yur waist Take yur measurements A. Waist = B. Hip = C. Finished skirt length = D. Waistband length (Waist + 2 ) = E. Waist 6 = F. Hip + 6 = ; then 6 = 1/8 =.13 1/4 =.25 3/8 =.38 1/2 =.50 5/8 =.63 3/4 =.75 7/8 =.88 The waistband Press the fabric t remve any wrinkles. Draw a line clse t the selvedge, parallel t the selvage Draw anther parallel line 3 away frm the first drawn line (at bth ends, measure 3 away frm the first drawn line and put a mark, then use yur yardstick t cnnect the marks). Draw a squared line at ne end (use the bnd paper as a tl, placing ne edge n the drawn line and tracing the edge that s at a right angle). Draw anther squared line that is the waistband length frm the first squared line, by measuring frm the square line, alng the lng line, and putting a mark at the pint f the waistband length (measurement D ). Cut ut waistband. Page 1 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

2 Fld waistband in half, matching the shrt edges and finger press the fld. Open and draw a line n the fld. This is where the right side seam f skirt will match the waistband. Write n this piece Cut 1 and Waistband. The finished waistband will be 3/4" wide, using 3/4" seam allwances. 1 draw line parallel t selvedge 2 mark 3 away 3 draw line 3 away, parallel t first line 4 square line t first line 5 measure waistband length 6 square line at ther end f waistband at mark 7 fld waistband in half, finger press 8 draw line n fld Page 2 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

3 The skirt pattern piece Label ne shrt edge f the bnd paper with the wrd right. Turn the paper s that the right edge is n yur right. Label the tp edge f the paper waist and label the bttm edge f the paper hip. Place a mark n the waist edge, frm the right edge, equal t measurement E (Waist 6) Place a mark n the hip edge, frm the right edge, equal t measurement F (Hip + 6, then 6). The extra 6 is wearing ease in the hip. Ease is the same as lseness. Fld the upper right edge f the paper t the waist mark and crease lightly n the fld. Open, mark the crease and label 1/2 waist gre. Fld the lwer right edge f the paper t the hip mark and crease lightly n the fld. Open, mark the crease and label 1/2 hip gre. Fld fabric in half matching the selvages. Place the fabric s the fld f the fabric is near yu and the selvages are away frm yu. Abut 2 away frm the right end f the fabric, place the right edge f the bnd paper n the fld f the fabric. Pin in place. Draw a line n the muslin n the waist edge, using the paper as a guide. Label this line n the fabric waistline and place a mark n that line at the 1/2 waist gre mark. Draw a line n the muslin n the hip edge, using the paper as a guide. Label this line n the fabric hipline and place a mark n that line at the 1/2 hip gre mark. Place a mark n the fld, frm the waistline, equal t the skirt length (measurement C ). Remve the paper and use it t square a line at this mark. Label this drawn line hemline. Using the yardstick, cnnect the marks frm waistline t hipline and cntinue t the hemline. This line is yur seamline. Make sure the line extends pass the waistline and hemline abut 1. Place a mark n the waistline abut midway between the fld and the seamline. Square a line frm the seamline t this pint. Place a mark n the hemline abut midway between the fld and the seamline. Square a line frm the seamline t this pint. Mark a 3/4 seam allwance all the way arund the skirt piece. Cut n the uter lines. Open yur piece. Use yur yardstick t draw a line n the center fld. Write Lengthwise Grain and Center Frnt Fld n this line. This is yur lengthwise grainline t use when placing the piece n yur fashin fabric. This is als the line that is placed n the fld f the fabric when yu want t cut ne piece. Use yur yardstick t extend the hipline acrss the entire width f the skirt piece. 1 mark the waist (measurement E ) 2 mark the hip (measurement F ) 3 fld t waist mark, lightly crease 4 mark n crease, label 1/2 waist gre Page 3 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

4 5 fld t hip mark, lightly crease 6 mark n crease, label 1/2 hip gre 7 pin right edge f paper n fld f fabric 8 draw waistline n fabric, label waistline 9 mark 1/2 waist gre n fabric 10 draw hipline, label hipline, mark 1/2 hip gre Page 4 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

5 11 measure skirt length frm waistline, 12 - square line, label hemline 13 cnnect marks frm waist t hem 14 mark middle frm fld n waistline 15 square line frm side t mid mark n waistline 16 waistline shape 17 - mark middle frm fld n hemline 18 square line frm side t mid mark n hemline Page 5 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

6 19 hemline shape 20 mark 3/4" seam allwance all arund 21 draw line dwn center f piece 22 extend hipline acrss piece Cutting the fitting shell: Nw it s time t use yur skirt pattern piece t cut five mre pieces, which will be sewn tgether t create a fitting shell fr yu t try n! Keeping the fabric flded in half, fllw the cutting diagram t cut ne mre piece n the fld. Cut tw times n duble layers, keeping center line parallel t selvedge. Put a 1/4" clip in the pieces where the hipline meets the cutting line. These are ntches that will be matched when yu sew the skirt. Page 6 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

7 1/4 clip t mark ntches Sewing the fitting shell: If it is hard t see the clips, use yur pencil t mark the ntches n each piece. Using the yardstick draw the hipline n the right side f each piece by cnnecting the ntches. Set yur sewing machine t straight stitching. Set t lngest stitch length and lsen tensin knb s bbbin thread pulls mre than the upper thread (machine basting). Using tw f the pieces and the piece yu drafted, sew ne piece t each side f the drafted piece using a 3/4" seam allwance, right sides tgether, matching the ntches. This is yur skirt frnt. Place yur skirt frnt right side dwn with hem clsest t yu; write an R n the right side near the ntch and write a L n the left side near the ntch. This will cme in handy when yu sew the side seams. Place yur skirt frnt right side up; write Center Frnt Gre n the middle panel, Frnt Right Gre n the panel n the left, and Frnt Left Gre n the panel n the right. Using the ther three pieces, sew them tgether using a 3/4" seam allwance. This is yur skirt back. Place yur skirt back right side up; write Center Back Gre n the middle panel, Back Right Gre n the panel n the right, and Back Left Gre n the panel n the left. Pin yur skirt frnt t yur skirt back n bth side seams, right sides tgether. Stitch the right side seam f the skirt (the side with the R ) using a 3/4" seam allwance frm the tp f the waist t the bttm f the hem. Stitch the left side seam f the skirt (the side with the L ) using a 3/4" seam allwance frm the ntch t the bttm f the hem. This pening is where the zipper will be when yu make the skirt. Turn the fitting shell right side ut. Nw yu are ready t try n the fitting shell. 1 mark the hipline n each piece 2 sew piece t each side f drafted piece; skirt frnt Page 7 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

8 3 n wrng side, write R at ntch n right side 4 n wrng side, write L at ntch n left side Fitting the fitting shell: If yu have a friend yu trust, ask them t help yu. Yu can d this n yur wn, but it s easier t have a friend d it. Put yur skirt n and pin the left side pening clsed, matching the seam lines. Tie the ribbn arund yur waist ver the fitting shell. This will hld the skirt in place as yu adjust any dipping in the skirt. Lk in the mirrr, standing straight with yur hands dwn by yur side and check t see if the hipline is level t the flr. If the hipline is higher in the back, pull the frnt f the skirt up until the hipline is level t the flr. If the hipline is higher in the frnt, pull the back f the skirt up until the hipline is level t the flr. If the hipline n ne side is higher than the ther, pull up the ther side until the hipline is level t the flr. Once the skirt is level, mark all arund the waist, just under the ribbn. Check the length f yur skirt. Only a 3/4 hem was added, s the skirt length yu see is what yu will get. Make a nte n skirt if yu want it lnger r shrter and by hw much. Untie the ribbn, remve the pins in the zipper pening and take the skirt ff. 1 level hipline t flr, mark waistline at ribbn 2 waistline marks Analyze yur skirt: Use the edge f yur paper t cnnect the marks n the waist line. Yu will true the waistline, meaning sme f the marks will be away fr the edge f the paper, but mst f the marks will be right n the edge f the paper. Page 8 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

9 Mark a 3/4 seam allwance all arund the waist and if necessary cut n the new cutting lines. Fld the skirt n the center frnt line and center back. Pin the layers tgether at the hipline s the hiplines match. Match the seams as well. Smth up t the waist. Pin the waistline tgether, matching the seams. Check if the side seams are even. If ne side is mre than 1 higher than the ther, then ne f yur hips is significantly higher than the ther and yu will want t cut yur skirt pieces using all the gre pieces n a single layer f fabric s yur skirt will be level t the flr. If the side seams are almst even, then yur hips are almst balanced and yu may cut yur skirt using half f the gre pieces n a flded piece f fabric. Check the curves n bth sides f the waistline and even up the curves t match. 1 true waistline marks 2 mark 3/4 seam allwance at waist 3 cut n new cutting line 4 fld n center frnt, pin hiplines tgether 5 check fr even edges 6 cut edges even if necessary Page 9 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010

10 Finishing the pattern Make a duble ntch at the side seams by putting anther 1/4" clip abut 1/2" away frm the first clip. Make a triple ntch at the back seams by putting tw 1/4" clips, ne n each side f the first clip abut 1/2 away frm the first clip. Take the skirt apart. T preserve yur pattern pieces, yu can fuse nn- wven fusible interfacing t the wrng side f the pieces. If ne f yur hips was significantly higher than the ther, yu will want t use all the gre pieces. Write Cut 1 n each f the six gre pieces. If yur hip were almst balanced, yu will need nly fur gre pieces. Write Cut 1 n the Center Frnt Gre and Center Back Gre. Write Cut 2 n the Frnt Right Gre and the Back Right Gre. Draw a line dwn the center f the Center Back Gre (fld the piece in half matching the hipline ntches, finger press the fld, pen the piece and draw a line n the fld). Write Lengthwise Grain and Center Back Fld n this line. Draw a line dwn the center f the Frnt Right Gre and the Back Right Gre. Write Lengthwise grain n this line. finished pattern piece Nw yu are ready t use yur pattern t make a six- gre skirt ut f nice fabric that yu will enjy wearing! ~Finished~ Page 10 f 10 D.L. Canty- Brwn fr Mpressive Threadz Studi, 2010