Welcome Friends. by Donna Hodson

Transcription

1 Welcome Friends by Donna Hodson

2 Welcome Friends By Donna Hodson Palette: DecoArt Americana Acrylics Blue Harbor #13283 Burnt Umber #13064 Cadmium Orange #13508 Canyon Orange #13238 Coral Blush #13515 French Grey Blue #13098 Graphite #13515 Hauser Dark Green #13133 Hauser Light Green #13131 Hauser Medium Green #13132 Heritage Brick #13219 Honey Brown #13163 Lamp Black #13067 Olive Green #13056 Sand #13004 Slate Grey #13068 Titanium White #13001 Tomato Red #13169 Yellow Light #13144 Yellow Ochre #13008 Surface: House Cutout #62886 Misc. Supplies: JoSonja White Gesso #83101 JoSonja Water Based Polyurethane Varnish Matte #84104 Brush Basin #70174 Tracing Paper Pad #83176 Palette Paper #70560 Soft Grip Embossing & Stylus set of 3 #70125 Gray Graphite Paper #70141 White Graphite Paper #70139 Palette Knife #70194 White Chalk Pencil # wet/dry Sandpaper or Super Film Sanding Sheets #70071 Scotch Magic Tape C-thru Ruler dark green leather cord for hanging (optional) Brushes: Papillon by the Artist s Club Glaze Wash, size 1 #20103 Shader, size 2 #20125; size 6 #20127; size 8 #20129; size 14 #20132 Angular Shader, size ½ #20111 Script Liner, size 10/0 #20137 Liner, size 10/0 #20145 Deerfoot set #20167 Loew-Cornell Brushes Angular Bristle, size ¼ #27197 Preparation: Sand the surface as needed and tack. Paint on both sides with two coats of Gesso to seal. Sand 1

3 lightly if needed with 600 wet/dry sandpaper to smooth. Transfer just the house, windows (not mullions), shutters, door, and chimneys using old gray graphite. It might help to use a ruler when transferring the house so that you have straight lines. Basecoat as follows: Chimneys: Honey Brown Door and shutters: Hauser Dark Green Frames around windows and door: Titanium White Inside windows: Slate Grey Roof: Titanium White Sides of house: Sand TECHNIQUE: I do most of my shading and highlighting with a ½ angle brush. I wet the brush in clean water and blot on a dry paper towel to remove most of the water. I then load the toe of the dampened brush in just a small amount of paint and mash the brush on my palette to move the paint across the brush. I do this in one place so that I don t leave all my paint on the palette. You want a gradual transition of values from dark to medium to light and then no paint on the heel of the brush. If the paint moves all the way across the brush, pinch the heel of the brush between your fingers. When I apply the brush to my surface I will softly blend in the area I m shading to further soften the values. I use the clean heel of my brush to soften the outer edge if I create a line. Dry and re-apply the shading or highlighting float as needed. The more layering you do, the nicer your value transitions will be. This technique takes a bit of practice and you need to try to develop a soft touch as you apply the values. Refer to the step by step charts and the finished photo for assistance while painting this project. Painting Instructions: PAINTING THE HOUSE: SIDING: 2

4 1. Use a ruler with a chalk pencil to paint some parallel slat lines or transfer with white graphite. Shade below these lines with Yellow Ochre. Float Yellow Ochre under the eaves and along the left edge of the side of the house. Shade next to the shutters, windows, and door. 2. Re-shade under the eaves and along the left edge of the side of the house with Honey Brown. Place a bit of this under the windows and next to the right shutters and the door. 3. Shade under the eaves and along the left edge of the side of the house with light floats of Burnt Umber. I did not use this under the eave across the front of the house. SHUTTERS: 1. Using a liner and Hauser Light Green thinned with some water; paint a thin lined box just inside the edges of the shutters. 2. Using the liner and thinned Hauser Light Green, add parallel lines horizontally inside the box. DOOR: 1. Use a ruler with a sharp chalk pencil or white graphite to transfer the pattern to the door. Using the angle brush float Hauser Light Green around the inside edge of the outer portion. I floated this at the top and bottom of the panel across the center of the door. Dry. 2. Float Hauser Light Green around the inner edges of the four smaller panels to form little boxes. 3. Door Knob: Paint the door knob with Yellow Ochre. Shade along the bottom with a float of Honey Brown and highlight the top with Sand. 4. Shade the inside edge of the white facing with a tiny float of French Blue Grey and a bit on each side of the upper mitered corners. CHRISTMAS TREE: Place a piece of tape at the top and bottom of the large window so that you don t get paint on the facings. I used a liner to paint the tree. 1. Transfer a line for the center trunk of the tree. Using a liner with thinned Hauser Dark Green, start at the top and pull lines from the trunk outward. The strokes in the center will be straight down and then gradually curve outward as you approach the edges. The strokes will gradually get wider as you get to the bottom of the tree. This first layer will be fairly opaque in the center. 3

5 2. Add strokes over the top of the Hauser Dark Green with Hauser Medium Green but do not cover all of the dark values. 3. Repeat again with Hauser Light Green but do not cover all of the other values. These will be heaviest in the center of the tree. 4. Using the tip of a liner or a stylus, decorate the tree with dots of Yellow Light, Tomato Red, and Blue Harbor. CURTAINS AND MULLIONS: 1. If needed transfer very lightly or draw in with a chalk pencil. I wanted the tied area to be slightly above the center of the window so the tie back would show. Using my angle brush I loaded it with a thinned wash of Titanium White and washed over the curtain area. 2. Wash again with a side loaded float of thinned paint and try to create lighter areas to indicate folds. 3. Add more white strokes as needed to indicate folds. Use a liner and place a curved stroke of Yellow Ochre for the tie backs. 4. Use a liner and add some curved strokes of Honey Brown to indicate roping. Mullions: If needed transfer a line with white graphite or use a ruler and chalk pencil. Use a script liner with slightly thinned Titanium White and paint the vertical and horizontal lines. I keep a damp brush close by in case a line gets too heavy so I can clean up and try again. If needed clean up the facings on the windows with Titanium White. WREATH: 1. If needed draw a circle on the door where the center of the wreath will be. Using a ¼ deer foot, stipple Hauser Medium Green over the circle keeping the edges airy. 2. Stipple just a bit of Hauser Light Green over the center but don t cover all of the Hauser Medium Green. 3. Using a liner with Hauser Dark Green, Hauser Light Green, and Olive, paint tiny leaves over the wreath in groups of twos and threes facing in different directions. 4. Using a small stylus, dip into fresh Tomato Red and place dots randomly for the berries. CHIMNEYS: 1. Using a #2 flat brush, paint some bricks alternate- 4

6 ly over the chimney with Heritage Brick and Yellow Ochre + Honey Brown, about Shade on the left edge of the right side of the chimney with Burnt Umber. You might need to repeat this. 3. Highlight the right edge of the front of the chimney with Yellow Ochre. ROOF: 1. Lightly float French Blue Grey in under and on the right side of the chimneys. Float a bit of this on the eave overhang on the right side. 2. Repeat the shading with French Blue Grey in all places. 3. Brush mix Burnt Umber and French Blue Grey and float some along the eave overhang. FOREGROUND: Loosely transfer the path leading from the front door with old gray graphite. Base coat with Titanium White keeping the edges irregular. While the paint is wet, side load the angle brush with French Blue Grey and paint the path with horizontal strokes. Slide the brush along the left side and then pull out horizontally to create some streaks. Repeat on the right side of the path but use less paint. Add some white streaks to the path also. The right side of the path will be a little lighter. For some of the darkest shaded areas along the left edge and under the steps, I added some Burnt Umber to French Blue Grey and darkened some areas. Paint the rest of the foreground area with Titanium White. While the paint is still wet brush in a bit of French Blue Grey here and there to create the illusion of shading in the snow. Float some shading next to the house and below where the shrubs will be painted. If you get too heavy with 5

7 the shading apply Titanium White over them to soften. STEPS: Base coat the steps with Slate Grey. 1. Shade next to the door and to separate the steps into 3 sections with Graphite. I used just a bit of Graphite on the tip of my angle brush for these floats. 2. Add some Titanium White highlights to the edges of the steps. Repeat if needed. SHRUBS: 1. Using Hauser Dark Green with about a ¼ to 3/8 foliage brush, dampen and blot on paper towel. Load in the paint and tap on your palette to remove some of the paint and to spread out the bristles. Tap lightly to stipple in some brush shapes across the front and side of the house. Have the shrubs slightly cover the steps at the sides but don t cover the door. Vary the height and shape of these to create interest. Darken more at the bottom with a second layer or add just a bit of Burnt Umber to the Hauser Dark Green to create a darker value. You want these to be fairly solid in the center areas. 2. Wipe your brush and load with Hauser Medium Green and lightly stipple over the shrubs but leave some dark values showing. More of the lighter values will be to the upper and left sides of the shrubs. If this doesn t show well, try stippling a little Hauser Light Green. 3. Clean your brush. Load in Titanium White + French Blue Grey and stipple some snow on the shrubs but don t cover all of the green. Keep it airy. This is a medium value blue grey. 4. Add more Titanium White to the French Blue Grey mix and add some snow highlights. Using the angle brush, float some more French Blue Grey under the shrubs for shading. LARGE TREE: Transfer the trunk and larger limbs but not the upper small branches. 1. Mix some Burnt Umber + Hauser Dark Green to make 6

8 a very dark brownish green. Using a size 6 or 8 flat on the chisel edge, paint in the tree trunk and major limbs using short strokes. This will be streaky which will help create the illusion of bark. 2. Switch to a script liner and continue to paint the upper branches. Thin the paint some with water for the thinner branches. These are best painted free handed and they do not have to follow the pattern exactly. Mix some Graphite into the Burnt Umber + Hauser Dark Green mix and create some shading on the right sides and to separate the branches. Use a liner with short choppy strokes to make it look more like bark. I didn t worry about shading the really small upper branches. 3. Mix some Titanium White into the basic tree mix and begin to add some choppy highlight strokes to the left side of the trunk and larger branches with a liner. Pull some of these into the center areas here and there. Mix some Titanium White + Cadmium Orange and paint some stronger highlights on the left edges of the trunk and branches. SNOWMAN: Using old gray graphite, transfer the snowman. Leave off the features, arms, buttons, trim on scarf, and holly. Base coat as follows: Body, face, & scarf: Titanium White Mittens & band on hat: Tomato Red Hat: Graphite Sign: Sand Refer to the step by step illustration for all elements. Completely shade the snowman first. Clean up any areas after as needed with another base coat. Refer to the numbers for each step for all elements. 1. Snowman body and face: a. Mix French Blue Grey + Titanium White about 1-4, a light blue grey value. Using the angle brush, float shading on the face next to the scarf, on the right side (walk out some) and under the brim of the hat (a narrow shading) b. Continue shading the lower body with floats of the mix in step a. Try to round your applications where they tuck into a triangle shape. I place the value in the corner and then lightly blend it outward. Since the lower part of the snowman is against a mostly white background, be sure to shade the outer portion of the body on both sides. Hat: a. Shade with floats of Lamp Black. I pulled a light float of this at both sides of the red band for shading also. Repeat the Lamp Black shading at least once. Refer to the illustration to help with 7

9 placement. Scarf: a. Using a 10/0 script liner with slightly thinned Tomato Red; paint the lines on the scarf. I placed a center line down the center of the falls and then worked to the sides. Begin at the bottom of the falls and curve the horizontal stripes slightly as you work upward. These are best done free handed. Refer to the illustration or pattern. Mittens: a. Shade with small floats of Graphite. Sign: a. Shade with a light float of Burnt Umber on the right side. Highlight down the left side with Sand + Titanium White. b. Using thinned Burnt Umber and a liner place a shading line across the top and right edge. c. Paint some thin lines around the other two edges and divide the sign into three planks with some grain lines. Don t get too heavy on the grain lines. Place a brown dot in the upper corners. 2. Snowman body and face: a. Re-shade with French Blue Grey. Tuck the shading in the darkest areas but don t pull out too far to cover all of the previous shading. If you carry the shading too far, add a float of white in the center and work back into the shaded area. You might need to apply this more than once. Do not add any dark shading to the front edges of the snowman s lower body. b. After you have finished shading, you can transfer the eyes, nose, and buttons. Use either a liner or #1 or 2 round brush. The nose is based Canyon Orange, the eyes and buttons Lamp Black. Use as many coats as needed for opaque coverage. For the mouth, thin Lamp Black and use a 10/0 detail liner to free hand the smile. I find it easier if I turn the snowman upside down for this. Hat: a. Re-shade if needed. Mix some Titanium White with Graphite to make a medium dark grey and float some highlights at the top left and right of the hat and pull just a bit across the middle. Place small floats along the front edge of the brim except where it dips between the eyes. Place a small highlight inside the brim at the edges. 8

10 b. Add a small back to back float of Tomato Red + Coral Blush to the left of center on the band to highlight. Scarf: a. Shade the scarf with tiny floats of Graphite. I place just a tiny bit of paint on the toe of the angle brush, work on palette and then pull along all of the edges. Place more shading on the fall that is behind and where the top one falls over the scarf at the neck. Shade down the center of the folded area around the neck. Use as many floats as needed but don t cover all of the white areas. Mittens: a. Re-shade as needed with Graphite. Add highlights to the thumbs and tops of the mittens with Tomato Red + Coral Blush. Sign: a. Add more shading to the top and right edges with Burnt Umber + a bit of Graphite. Arm: a. Using a liner, base the arms with Burnt Umber. 3. Snowman features: a. Eyes: Place a very small float of Titanium White on the right lower side of the eye but leave a black edge. Place a tiny dot in the upper left corner of the eye. b. Nose: Mix just a very tiny bit of Lamp Black with Canyon Orange to darken just a bit. Float this along the lower edge of the nose keeping it slightly irregular following the contours of the nose. c. Mouth: Using the detail liner, create a lip slightly to the right of center letting it blend into the mouth on both sides. Place two tiny lines at each corner of the mouth. d. Buttons: Place a small Titanium White stroke across the left top portion with the tip of a liner. Hat: a. Add more Titanium White to the Graphite mix and re-highlight. The brightest highlights will be on the top left and along the edges of the brim, brighter on the left edge. b. Highlight the band again with a small back to back float of Coral Blush. c. Using white graphite, transfer the holly and berries. Base coat the leaves with Hauser Medium Green (#2 flat), and the berries with Tomato Red (liner). Scarf: a. Use back to back floats of Titanium White to highlight the center of the folds and ties. Place more white over the center of the largest area. Use the chisel edge to add some white on the folds around the neck, brighter on the left edges. Mittens: a. Float some highlights on the thumbs and tops of the mittens with Coral Blush. Using the chisel edge of your angle or a 9

11 liner, place some ribbing lines on the cuff with Coral Blush letting them fade into the shading at the base of the cuff. Sign: a. Using a liner and slightly thinned Graphite, paint in the wire hanger on the sign. Re-shade on the top and right edge if needed with Burnt Umber + Graphite. Arms: a. Shade with a mix of Burnt Umber + Graphite using a liner and some slightly choppy strokes. 4. Snowman: a. I like to add some shading next to the eyes, nose, mouth, and buttons to make them appear to sink into the face and body. I use just a tiny bit of French Blue Grey on the tip of my angle brush and float a small crescent stroke next to the lower right edges of the eyes, nose, mouth, and buttons. Keep these floats light and re-apply if needed right next to the object. You do not want hard edges to the outer parts of these floats. Place a tiny white line inside the lip to highlight. Place a tiny dot or line at the lower part of the float on the right side of the eyes. b. Blush: (Optional) I moisten the cheek area with a bit of clean water and thin Tomato Red a lot. I place just a bit on my angle and apply with a circular back to back float on the right cheek. This is very light. You can let it dry and re-apply if needed. On the left cheek I just floated some on the edge of the cheek. (If you have another favorite method for cheeks, please use it). c. Scarf: Using a liner with thinned Tomato Red, paint some tassels coming from the tip of the falls. d. Arms: Mix Titanium White into the Burnt Umber + Graphite mix and highlight on the left edges of the arms. Keep the strokes a bit choppy. e. Sign: Transfer the lettering with gray graphite. Use a 10/0 script liner with thinned Burnt Umber + Graphite to paint the letters. Highlight the wire along the center with Titanium White and the ends. f. Holly & Berries: 1. Leaves: Shade the holly leaves with floats of Hauser Dark Green. As many times as needed. Float Hauser Light Green on the tips of the leaves. Using a liner with thinned Hauser Dark Green, paint in the veins. 2. Berries: Shade on the lower right edge with a small float of Graphite. Highlight on the top left edge with Coral Blush. Finishing tip for snowman: For the mittens, band, and holly berries, if they appear dull, wash with just a bit of Cadmium Orange to brighten. Shading the foreground: Float some Titanium White in front of the snowman and the large tree. Add some French Blue Grey shading at the sides behind this white float fading out at the edges. Place more shading in front of the large tree and behind the right edge at the base of the trunk. Optional: I decided to make it snow. If you like, thin some Titanium White and spatter over the entire piece. Hint: If you place one coat of varnish over your finished project before you spatter, it will help clean off mis-spatters. Finishing: Sign your name, date and varnish with at least three coats of JoSonja s Water Based Polyurethane Matte Varnish. I attached a dark green leather cord to hang. 10

12 11

13 Pattern at 100% 1 x 1 To ensure your pattern is at 100%, this box should measure 1 x 1 when printed. 12

14 13

15 14

16 Copyright 2015 by Donna Hodson and Crafts Americana Group, Inc. All Rights Reserved. # No. *A331948* Artist s Club. All rights reserved. For private, non-commercial use only. Please see our web site for terms of use.