40 Doll Patterns Included for...

Transcription

1 ~ A Compilation of All Occasion Sewing Patterns for 18 Dolls ~ 40 Doll Patterns Included for.....bedtime..tea..outdoor Wear..Dress-Up..Summer..Snow Season..Aprons..Jogging Sewing Tips for Doll Clothes Sewing Techniques Reference Library Designed and Written by JoAnn Gagnon 1

2 Copyright 2011 Bunkhouse Books All rights reserved. This ebook is not licensed for resale. This license is personal to the original purchaser and may not be sold, loaned, or otherwise transferred to third parties or additional users. Purchaser may make one copy for personal use. Copying for school or co-op use is strictly prohibited. No part of this publication may otherwise be published, reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted or copied in any form or by any means now known or hereafter developed, whether electronic, mechanical, or otherwise, without prior written permission of the publisher. Illegal use, copying, publication, transfer or distribution is considered copyright infringement according to Sections 107 and 108 and other relevant portions of the United States Copyright Act Published and Distributed by: Bunkhouse Books Toll Free (800) Written By: JoAnn Gagnon Illustrated By: Kelli Voth 2

3 ~ A Compilation of All Occasion Sewing Patterns for 18 Dolls ~ Sewing doll clothes is rewarding if you like to play with, look at, or collect dolls. Whether you are a child, mom, grandma, aunt or friend, dolls and doll clothes make wonderful gifts for those you love. This book offers you a multitude of doll patterns (40) for dressing your doll for multiple occasions. All with complete, detailed directions and professional illustrations. Techniques are explained to make sewing doll clothes easier and help provide the best fit. Young hands will be eager to dress up their dolls and help create beautiful wardrobes for any occasion they can imagine! 3

4 Sewing Instructions and Tips 5 Bedtime Patterns Pajama Top & Nightshirt 9 Pajama Bottoms 12 Fancy Nightgown 14 Bathrobe 18 Pillow and Pillowcase 24 Laundry Bag 26 Slippers 28 Time Out for Tea Patterns Open Front Vest 29 Gathered Skirt 31 Pants 32 Blouse 34 Purse 37 Outdoor Wear Patterns 3 Outdoorsman Vests 39 Pants 40 Shirt 43 Duffel Bag 46 Backpack 47 Sweet Dress-Up Patterns Heart Sundress 48 Heart Jacket 50 Culottes Skirt 53 Front Button Vest 56 Floppy Hat 58 Blouse 60 Sunflower Jumper 63 Fun in the Sun Patterns T-Shirts 65 Shorts 68 Tote Bag 70 Snow Season Patterns Fleece Jacket 72 Fleece Vest 77 Fleece Snow Hat 79 Fleece Snow Scarf 79 Fancy Blouse Pattern Fancy Blouse 80 Gathered Skirt 81 Work Apron Patterns Kitchen Apron 84 Shop Apron 85 Morning Jog Patterns Sweat Shirt 87 Sweat Pants 91 Technique Reference Library Curves and Points 93 Stitching in an Exposed Zipper 94 Sewing on Velcro 95 Sewing on a Snap 96 Gathering Fabric 97 Appliqué with Heat n Bond Lite 98 Piping a Seam 99 Stitching Pintucks 100 Lace Insertion 101 Fancy Machine Stitches 102 Making Tucks 102 Applying Bias Tape 103 Topstitching your Doll s Clothes 104 Sewing on a Button 105 Applying Ribbing 106 Additional Doll Dressing Books 107 4

5 As a child I enjoyed dressing up my dolls in their clothes, lining them up, and having mother take their picture. Girls especially have that mothering instinct when dressing up and acting out the care and feeding of their dolls. Sewing doll clothes is an exciting and economical way to express yourself. Sewing doll clothes is more difficult than sewing larger clothing items and it is important to note these changes in your sewing techniques. Each of our patterns will accommodate the doll s larger heads and shorter necks. If little hands are dressing the doll, consider the type of closures you will use. Use appropriate fabrics in order to reduce bulkiness and stiffness. I find that 100% cottons work well for doll clothes. Take note of the difference in how you put the patterns together due to the doll garment s smaller size. Please take time to read through the following tips and suggestions before stitching your doll clothes and they will be easier to sew and turn out perfect the first time. Seams and Seam Finishes Seam allowances on doll patterns are 1/4. Most machines have a 1/4 presser foot. By following the presser foot as your seam guide, you will achieve the ¼ allowance. To determine if you have a correct ¼ seam allowance, cut 3 pieces of fabric 1 ½ wide by 3 long. Sew the pieces together lengthwise, so they are lined up side by side. Press both seams toward the center, and measure the width of the inside piece. It should measure exactly 1. If it is less, then your seam allowance is too large. If it s more than 1 then your seam allowance is not large enough. Once you determine where your exact ¼ seam allowance is, place blue 1 painter s tape across the throat plate of your machine to use as a guide in stitching your doll clothes. Backstitching is important to lock the stitches, but limit the amount of backstitching you do. It only takes 2-3 stitches to secure the threads. Any more will make the area stiff. Begin stitching ¼ in from the beginning of the seam. If you begin at the edge of the fabric, your machine will chew up the material. Leave a long tail of thread, back of the throat plate, to start with and hang on to it as you begin your stitching. This prevents threads from being pulled into the bobbin. If you have problems, place a sheet of typing paper under the fabric piece when stitching (your paper becomes a stabilizer). After you finish, pull the paper off. To the finish raw edges after the seam has been sewn, zigzag close to the edge of the fabric. This will prevent the doll garment from coming apart in the wash. Knit and polar fleece fabrics do not require seam finishes. A professional way to deal with facings around the neck and arms is to fully line the bodices and vests. That way you do not need to cut and sew facings or zigzag raw edges. 5

6 Press ¼ finished seams to one side or direction. This quilting technique makes the seams stronger. A rule of thumb is to sew a seam and then press a seam. Remember to sew and press as you go. Closures - Velcro, Snaps, Buttons and Zippers When considering the type of closure to use when finishing the doll clothes, ask yourself, Who will be dressing the doll? Little hands or adults? and select your closure accordingly. Buttonholes do not work well on tiny clothes as they are much too small. However, buttons can be sewn over the tops of snaps and Velcro for a button look. Velcro helps all ages to dress the dolly (but can snag in dolly s hair). Cut the length needed, and then cut the Velcro in half lengthwise. Use the sew-in variety as the stick-on will gum up the machine needleand come off in the wash. Small snaps are sewn on by hand at the end of the project, but may be too difficult for small hands to fasten. Exposed zippers can be used and are often a focal point. Lapped and centered zippers are not recommended due to the smaller size. Always sew the zipper in while the fabric is flat, before construction begins. For a look alike zipper, extend Velcro ¼ beyond the edge of the garment seamline. Notions & Sewing Supplies Select small, flat, decorative buttons. Bee Lee and other companies offer 1/4 buttons specific for doll clothing. Look them up online. Use extra small snaps to match the size of the garment. Wonder Tape works wonders to hold things in place while sewing, eliminating the need to use pins. Wonder Tape is a double-sided sticky tape that can be stitched through and washes away, leaving no gummy residue. I prefer fine, short pins. Large pins can leave holes in delicate fabrics and are too bulky for small doll clothes. Use soft 1/4 or 3/8 pajama elastic for waistline casings, sleeves, wrists, and headbands. 1/8 or 1/4 clear elastic is very stretchy and works well for sewing into areas that need to be gathered for ruffling, such as the bottom of puffy sleeves. Use narrow lace and ribbons for sleeve, collar, and hem trims. You may choose to hand embroider or use your sewing machine to embellish otherwise plain areas. Quilter s Grid makes doll quilts quick and easy to make and ensures accuracy. Quilters Grid is an iron-on fusible interfacing with lines running horizontally and vertically, 2 inches apart. Look for it in the quilting or interfacing section at your local fabric store. 6

7 Collars and Neckline Finishes Collars on dolls look best when they lay flat versus having a roll. I often use front collars only, which makes the neckline and shoulder seam lines the same as the bodice and assures that the collar will lay flat. If you have a back collar, make sure both sides of the collar meet without overlapping, even if your closure overlaps. Collars are very small and sometimes difficult to sew, but larger collars look nice on dolly and are much easier than the Peter Pan type. Be sure to clip and notch extremely well before turning small collars. Unless your fabric is exceptionally soft, do not use interfacing. Use paper under the stitching to stabilize the fabric and prevent the machine from drawing the fabric down into the bobbin area. Pull the paper off when you finish stitching. It nay be easier to add lace to the underside of the finished collar, by hand or topstitching, rather than sewing it to the tiny curved edges. Necklines without collars can be trimmed with 1/4 lace. These are either sewn into the seam to stand up or topstitched to the neck area after the seams are sewn so the lace or trim lays flat. Piping gives a clean finished look when sewn into the collar seam. Plain necklines are just as lovely. Construction Considerations Single rolled edges work best. For example, if you are hemming the bottom of your doll s jumper, place a seam finish on the edge of the fabric and turn it up just once and stitch in place. Turning it up twice makes the hemline bulky and stiff. Fully line all bodices and vests to eliminate the need for facings. Clip curves very closely on the neckline or armholes after stitching so the seams lay flat. To eliminate bulk, line tiny pockets using a fold at the top of the pocket. When you need a zipper, use the exposed method of application and integrate it into the lines of the garment. Lapped and centered zippers are much too difficult on tiny garments. Sewing in Sleeves Because the sleeve opening is so small, sewing sleeves on doll clothes cannot be done the conventional set-in sleeve way. You must leave the side seam open when sewing the sleeve to the bodice. Fully finish the whole sleeve before attaching it to the rest of the garment. Add any embellishments, use hem or lace on the bottom edge of the sleeve, gather it into a band, or make an elastic casing. Use elastic to achieve a ruffle at the bottom of a puff sleeve. Finish the bottom edge in order to stretch and sew down the middle of the clear elastic to the sleeve s wrong side, 1 above the finished edge. Clear elastic is essential because it is so stretchy, has less bulk, and is easier to slide dolly s arms in and out of the finished sleeve. Once you complete these procedures, run your gathering thread over the sleeve cap. Run 2 rows of gathering threads, 1/8 and 3/8 from the edge of each sleeve head. Pull the two gathering threads at the same time for even gathers. Stitch down the middle of the two rows with a regular (2.5) stitch. That should put you at a seam allowance of 1/4 from the edge of the sleeve for your final stitching. Be sure to pull your gathering threads out after it stitching. Zig-zag the seam allowance to finish the raw edges. 7

8 Finally, sew the sleeve underarm seam and the bodice side seam all at once in order to match the sleeve hem, armhole seams, and the lower edge of the side seam. Zig-zag finish this stitched edge for a neat completion to the side seams. Accessorizing Adding the finishing touches to your dolly s outfit means that she is ready for any occasion. Accessorize her outfits with an array of hats, purses, shoes, socks, tights, jackets, and hair pretties. For bedtime, add a tiny pillow and blanket or warm sleeping bag. Include a colorful shawl for an evening out on the town. Remember to include a miniature toy dog, bunny, or kitty as your dolly's special pet. You might need a hand knitted sweater for those cold days, or a comfy crocheted "Afghan" for lounge time. A pretty neck scarf or cozy poncho can be hand-crafted out of scraps of soft polar fleece. Use your creativity to doll up your outfit! You will be happy you did. 8

9 Get Dolly ready for a bedtime story and hot cocoa with this warm selection of night time patterns. Throw her and her friends a slumber party with all she needs to take along for loads of girl talk, popcorn, and a night of wholesome fun. Directions for: Pajama Top & Nightshirt Materials and Supplies: Pajama Top 10 X 26 piece of fabric Nightshirt 10 X 34 piece of fabric Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric pieces using patterns on next page. Finish all the edges. Press each piece flat. Step 2: Garment Construction While flat, press the bottom hem. Turn under 1/4, then 1/2. Do not stitch until later. Press the hem in the bottom of the sleeves. Turn under 1/4, and then again 1/4 for a narrow hem on this curved edge. Stitch this hem. For long sleeves, turn under 1/4, and then 1/2, and stitch in place. Pin and sew garment front and back shoulder seams (A). Pin and sew neckline facing front and back shoulder seams (B).. Lay the facing, right sides together, over the garment neckline. Pin and stitch in place (C). Clip, turn, and press right side out. Topstitch to hold the facing in place (D). For Pajama Top: Press under back closing (including facing), first 1/4, then 1/2. Repeat for both sides. Cut 4 1/2 piece of Velcro in half lengthwise, making a long narrow piece. Sew the Velcro loop side to the underside of the left back piece. Sew the hook side of Velcro to the top side of the right back piece. For Nightshirt: Stitch center back seam, beginning 3 1/2 down from neckline edge. Press open. Press under the top 3 1/2 seam allowance, and topstitch this slit (E). Sew on a 1/2 square piece of Velcro at the neckline for closure. A. B. C. D. E. 9

10 Step 3 Sleeves While the garment is still laying flat, pin, right sides together, and sew the top of the sleeve to the armhole. Repeat for both sleeves (F). Pin and stitch one continuous seam from the tip of the sleeve to the bottom of the body piece (G). Repeat on both sides. Step 4 Finishing Stitch hem in place (it was pressed earlier). If you are making a nightshirt, stop your continuous seam 2 1/2 from the bottom hemline. Press under the 1/4 seam allowance and topstitch this slit (H). Now fold up the hem and stitch in place. F. G. H. I. For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 10

11 Pajama Top & Nightshirt Pattern For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 11

12 Directions for: Short or Long Pajama Bottoms Materials and Supplies: Short length: 12 X 14 fabric 9 1/2 of 3/8 wide elastic Thread Long Length: 12 X 24 fabric piece 9 1/2 of 3/8 elastic Thread Step 1: Cut Out Cut out fabric from pattern pieces on the following pages. Finish all the edges. Press fabric pieces flat. While fabric is flat, press under 1/4, then 1/2 along top edge for waistline casing (A). Do not stitch. Press under 1/4, then 1/2 on bottom edge for hem. Stitch hem in place. Step 2: Garment Construction Sew each pant leg together (inseams) (B). Press seam. Turn one leg right side out, and place inside the other pant leg. Stitch the crotch seam (E). Stitch the waistline casing, leaving a 3 opening. Insert a 9 1/2 piece of 1/4 elastic into the waistline casing (F). Attaching a pin to the end of the elastic will make this easier. Stretch to make the gathers even. Lay the raw edges of the elastic over each other, and zig zag to hold together (G). Stretch to pop this edge inside and even out the gathers. Finish stitching waistline casing together over opening. A. B. C. D. E. 12

13 Pajama Bottoms For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 13

14 Directions for: Fancy Nightgown Skill Level: Advanced Materials and Supplies: 1/2 yard white fabric 1/2 yard flat, 1/2 lace for lower sleeve edge 1/4 yard gathered, 1/2 lace for neckline 1 yard flat, 1 1/4 flat lace for skirt lower edge 1 yard gathered 1 1/4 yard eyelet lace for yoke 1/4 yard of 1/4 clear elastic for wrists 1 yard 1/4 ribbon for bow White thread 2 Velcro Step 1: Cut Out Cut out fabric pieces using patterns on next page. Finish all the edges. Press each piece flat. Step 2: Garment Construction Preparing the Skirt: Stitch the center back skirt, with a 5/8 seam allowance, leaving a 4 opening on the top edge (A). Press seam open, all the way to the top. Topstitch the opening as in the diagram (B). Apply eyelet lace to the bottom edge of the skirt front and back (C). Press, and then stitch 3 rows of 1/4 tucks, beginning the first row 1 1/2 above the eyelet edging (D). See page 101 on making tucks. Run 2 rows of gathering threads along the top of the front and back skirts, one at 3/8 and the other one at 1/8 (E). Set skirt aside. A. B. C. D. E. F. Preparing the Sleeves: Finish the bottom edges of the sleeves with narrow eyelet lace, as you did for the bottom of the skirt (F). Cut a piece of clear elastic 3 long, and stitch onto the wrong side of the sleeve, 1/2 up from the bottom of the fabric. Stitch 2 rows of gathering threads around the top of the sleeve cap, one at 3/8, and one at 1/8. Set sleeve aside until later. Preparing the Bodice: Stitch front and back shoulder seams together, at 1/4 seam allowance (G). Do this for the outer fabric as well as the lining. Stitch eyelet lace around the neckline on the outer fabric (H). G. H. 14

15 With lining and outer fabrics, right sides together, stitch up the back opening, around the neckline, and down the back opening (I). Clip the curve area, and cut diagonally across the corners. See page 92. Turn right side out and press (J). Cut 2 pieces of eyelet lace 3 1/2 long for the yoke back; cut 2 pieces 6 1/2 long to go over the shoulders; and cut one piece 7 1/2 long for the front yoke bottom edge. Sew the pieces together at a 45 degree angle to miter the corners (K). Run two rows of gathering threads along the cut edge of lace. Pin the lace to the yoke piece in this order: 1 back piece to a shoulder/arm piece; the shoulder/arm piece to the front piece; the front piece onto the other shoulder/arm piece; then attach the other back piece to this shoulder piece ( L). Putting it all Together: Beginning in the back, gather the lace to fit. Turn the edge of the eyelet under 1/4 and again 1/4, and carefully pin and stitch the eyelet lace to the lower edge of the yoke, making sure the miter point is 1/4 in from the end of the yoke. Put your needle down in the corner, turn, pin and stitch the eyelet that goes over the shoulder in place. Continue on around the entire yoke. Gather to fit, and then pin and stitch the skirt back to the back yoke, with the lace sandwiched in between (M). Be sure to zigzag the edge, and then topstitch it. Gather to fit, and then pin and stitch the skirt front to the front yoke (N). Zig zag the edge, and then topstitch in place (O). Line up the sleeve side seam and skirt side seam, then pin and stitch all at one time (P). Be sure to zigzag the edge to prevent fraying down the road. Finishing With Velcro Closure: Cut a 1 piece of Velcro. Now cut it in half lengthwise. Sew the loop side of the Velcro onto the right side outer fabric on the center back line. Sew the hook side of the Velcro onto the left side lining fabric on the center back line (Q). Add a ribbon bow on front if desired (R). I. J. K. L. M. N. O. P. Q. R. 15

16 Fancy Nightgown Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 16

17 Fancy Nightgown Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 17

18 Directions for: Flannel Shawl Collar Bathrobe Materials and Supplies: 5/8 yard flannel Thread Step 1: Cut Out Cut out fabric pieces using patterns on next page. Finish all pieces and raw edges. Press each piece flat. Step 2: Garment Construction Facing: Sew center back of facing together (A). Press open. Clip the corners, and turn under the shoulder and back neck edge 1/4. Set aside until later. Sleeves: Turn up bottom edge 1 1/2, and press in place. Topstitch the folded edge, presser foot width. Stitch the raw edge to the fabric. Press the topstitched edge up 3/4 to make the cuff (F, G). Repeat for the second sleeve. Set aside. Putting the Garment Together: Pin and then stitch the bathrobe front piece center back seam (B). Pin and then stitch the back piece. Pin the shoulder seams first. You will need to clip the curved neckline so you can stitch it onto a straight line without puckers. After it is pinned in place, stitch in place (C). Press the back neck seam upward, into the collar. Press the shoulder seams forward to the front. Pin and then stitch the facing outer edge to the garment outer edge (D). Press in place, and topstitch this edge (E). Pin and then stitch the sleeve to the armseye edge (H). Pin and then stitch the sleeve underarm seam and the side seam all in one stitching (I). Turn the bottom edge up 1/4, then again 3/8 and stitch near the folded edge for the finishing hem. Belt: Fold belt fabric piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Stitch 1/4 seam allowance from the edge, the ends and the length of the belt, leaving a 3 opening in the center. Clip corners and turn right side out. Press. Hand stitch the 3 opening closed. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. 18

19 Shawl Collar Bathrobe Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 19

20 Shawl Collar Bathrobe Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 20

21 Shawl Collar Bathrobe Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 21

22 Shawl Collar Bathrobe Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 22

23 Shawl Collar Bathrobe Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 23

24 Directions for: Pillow Materials and Supplies: 8 X 6 piece of fabric Batting, small amount Thread Step 1: Cut Out Fabric piece: 8 X 6 A. Step 2: Garment Construction Fold the piece of fabric in half, right sides together, making a 4 X 6 rectangle. Pin and then stitch at 1/4, all around the 3 raw edges, leaving 2 open on the long edge for stuffing (A). Lightly stuff pillow with batting. By hand, stitch opening closed. Directions for: Pillow Case Materials and Supplies: 9 X 18 piece of fabric Thread Step 1: Cut Out Fabric Piece 9 X 18 Step 2: Garment Construction Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. Press flat. On the 9 wide end, press to the wrong side 1/4, then 1 (B). Fold the fabric in half, matching the pressed edges. Unfold the pressed edges, and pin, then stitch, the two long sides at 1/4 seam allowance. Turn the fabric right side out. Fold the pressed edges back under and stitch in place. If you have a free-arm machine, use the arm to stitch this seam. B. C. 24

25 Pillow & Pillowcase Patterns Pillowcase Cut 1 on Fold For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Pillow Cut 1 on Fold 25

26 Materials and Supplies: 6 X 18 fabric piece 2 yards of 1/8 cording Thread Directions for: Laundry Bag Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. On the two 6 wide ends, press to the wrong side according to the measurements given on the pattern (next page). Step 2: Garment Construction Fold the fabric in half, matching the pressed edges. Unfold the pressed edges, and pin. Mark the opening to be left open for the cords. Stitch the long sides, leaving the opening open. Turn the pressed edge back under, and stitch both rows of stitching. If you have a free-arm machine, use the arm to stitch this seam. Turn right side out and press. Step 3: Finishing Cut the length of your cord in half. Insert piece of cording through the opening, all around the casing and back out the opening. Knot the ends together. Insert the second piece of cording into the other opening, all around the casing, and back out the opening. Knot the ends together. A. B. C. D. E. 26

27 Laundry Bag Guide Sheet For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 1 1/4 Actual size is smaller than illustration. 3/4 3/8 Laundry Bag Pattern: Cut 1 rectangle 6 wide X 18 Long 1/4 Seam Allowance 27

28 Directions for: Slippers Materials and Supplies: 5 X 20 Fabric Piece 3 X 8 Puffy Foam Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabrics, you do not need to finish edges. Step 2: Garment Construction With right sides together, stitch each slipper bottom together along the bottom curved edge (A). Clip at the end of the stitching as shown on pattern. See page 92 on clipping and notching. Turn right side out. Press (B). With right sides together, stitch each slipper top together along the top gentle curve (C). Clip curve and turn right side out. Press (D). Pin the raw edges of the slipper top to the raw edges of the slipper bottom, and stitch (E). Turn right side out. Step 3: Finishing Glue cut-out Foamie to the bottom of each slipper (F). A. C. E. B. D. F. For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 28

29 Your Dolly needs only the tea and cookies to make her English tea party with these adorable patterns. She will look sharp in her hostess attire, ready to entertain her friends and yours. Directions for: Open Front Vest (Reversible) Materials and Supplies: 9 X 12 fabric piece (referred to as 1) 9 X 12 coordinating fabric piece (referred to as 2) Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabrics, you do not need to finish edges. Press fabrics flat. A. Step 2: Garment Construction Pin vest front 1a and vest front 2a right sides together. Pin right sides together vest front 1b and vest front 2b. On each, stitch the armhole seam, and the front and bottom edge. Leave the shoulder seams and side seams open (A). Turn right side out and press (B). Pin both back pieces, 1 & 2, right sides together. Stitch the neckline seam, the armhole seam, and the bottom edge, leaving a 2 1/2 opening in the middle of the bottom edge for turning (C). You do not sew the shoulder and side seams. Turn right side out and press (D). Turn back vest wrong side out. Slide the front vest inside the back vest (E). Pin and stitch the shoulder seams and side seams. Repeat for the other side. Turn to the right side by pulling the fronts through the opening left on the bottom edge. B. C. D. Step 3: Finishing Press. Then hand stitch the opening closed. E. 29

30 Vest Back Open Front Vest Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Cut 1 on Fold Outer Fabric Cut 1 on fold Lining Fabric 1/4 Seam Allowance Fold 30

31 Gathered Skirt Directions for: Gathered Skirt Materials and Supplies: 8 1/2 X 20 fabric piece 9 1/2 of 1/4 elastic Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. Press Flat. Step 2: Garment Construction On each of the long ends, press under 1/4 to the wrong side. On the top edge (waistline) press under again 3/4 (A). On the bottom edge (hemline) press under again 1. Stitch back seam (short edges). Stitch the hem, and waistline casing leaving a 3 opening. Insert a 9 1/2 piece of 1/4 elastic into the waistline casing (B). Attaching a pin to the end of the elastic will make this easier. Stretch to make the gathers even. Lay the raw edges of the elastic over each other, and zig zag to hold together (C). Stretch to pop this edge inside and even out the gathers. Finish stitching waistline casing together over opening. A. B. C. Skirt Pattern Cut 1 rectangle 8 1/2 wide by 20 long 31

32 Directions for: Pants A. Materials and Supplies: 12 X 24 fabric piece 9 1/2 of 3/8 elastic Thread Step 1: Cut Out Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. Press fabric pieces flat. While fabric is flat, press under 1/4, then 1/2 along top edge for waistline casing (A). Do not stitch. Press under 1/4, then 1/2 on bottom edge for hem. Stitch hem in place. Step 2: Garment Construction Sew each pant leg together (inseams). Press seam (B). Turn one leg right side out, and place inside the other pant leg. Stitch the front and back crotch seam (C). Stitch the waistline casing, leaving a 3 opening. Insert a 9 1/2 piece of 1/4 elastic into the waistline casing (D). Attaching a pin to the end of the elastic will make this easier. Stretch to make the gathers even. Lay the raw edges of the elastic over each other, and zig zag to hold together (D). Stretch to pop this edge inside and even out the gathers. Finish stitching waistline casing together over opening. B. C. D. E. 32

33 Pants Pattern For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 33

34 Directions for: Back Velcro Blouse with Elastic Puff Sleeve Materials and Supplies: 10 X 30 fabric piece 8 of 1/8 elastic 3 of Velcro Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. Press all pieces flat. Step 2: Garment Construction While flat, press the bottom hem. Turn under 1/4, then 1/2. Do not stitch until later. Press hem in the bottom of the sleeves. Turn under 1/4, then 1/4 again (A). Stitch hem. Take 4 of 1/8 elastic. Stretch and zig-zag stitch it 3/8 from the sleeve hem, on the wrong side of the fabric, on both sleeves (B). Run 2 rows of gathering stitches (longest stitch length) from dot to dot across the top of the sleeve. Make one row 1/8 from the edge, and the other row 3/8 from the edge (C). Do to both sleeves. Set sleeves aside. Pin and sew blouse front and back at the shoulder seams (D). Prepare bias band collar by stitching ends. Pin in place, and stitch to neckline (E). Clip the rounded edge. Finish neckline edges by under-stitching the seam allowance to the bodice neckline edge (F). Press under back closing (including neckband), first 1/4, then 1/2. Repeat for both sides. Cut 4 1/2 piece of Velcro in half lengthwise, making a long narrow piece. Sew the Velcro loop side to the underside of the left back piece. Sew the hook side of Velcro to the top side of the right back piece (G). Pull the threads on your sleeve and gather them to fit the armhole opening. Pin in place, and then stitch between the two rows of stitching (H). Remove your gathering threads. Pin and stitch one continuous seam from the tip of the sleeve to the bottom of the body piece (I). Repeat on both sides. Stitch blouse hem in place (J). A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. J. 34

35 Blouse Pattern For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Blouse Front Cut 1 on Fold Place on Fold Blouse Back Cut 2 35

36 Blouse Pattern For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Blouse Neckband Cut 18 X 1 Bias Band for Neckband 36

37 Directions for: Purse Materials and Supplies: 5 X 12 1/2 of 2 different fabrics 2 X 14 for handle 1 button 1/2 square of Velcro Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabrics, you do not need to finish edges. Step 2: Garment Construction Press the handle piece in half, lengthwise. Now fold each raw edge into the middle. Top stitch the folded edges together (A). Set aside until later. Pin the pocket flap pieces right sides together. Stitch the three curves, leaving the straight edge open (B). Clip and turn right side out. Press (C). Cut a 1/2 square piece of Velcro and stitch the loop side of the Velcro onto the purse flap, centered in the middle square, 1/2 up from the middle curved edge. Set aside until later. Sew the 2 outer fabric purse body pieces together, leaving the top straight edge open (D). Repeat for the lining fabric. Sew the hoop side of the Velcro piece to the outside front piece, centering it with the fabric width, and placing it 1 1/2 below the top edge. Pin raw edges of handle to the back edge of the outer bag, 1/2 in from the seam. With right sides together, pin the purse flap over the handle ends with the under-flap facing out (E). Stitch the handle and flap in place with a 1/4 seam allowance. Put all of this bag inside the lining, which is wrong side out (right sides together). Pin the top edges together. Stitch around this top edge, leaving a 2 1/2 opening on the front edge (F). Pull the bag through the opening. Hand stitch the opening closed. Step 3: Finishing A decorative button may be sewn on to the front flap. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. 37

38 Purse Patterns Pocket Handle Cut 1 2 wide by14 long For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Add 5 to length 38

39 Do you like the "great out-of-doors"? You and your Dolly will love these unique patterns for camping, hunting, fishing, and hiking. Plan your vacation to include a trip to the mountains and dress appropriately! All items will fit nicely into your handmade backpack. Directions for: Reversible Camouflage, Fishing, and Hunting Vests Materials and Supplies: 9 X 12 fabric pieces 2 different fabrics (fabric 1 and fabric 2) 4 Velcro (black replaces a zipper) Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabrics, you do not need to finish edges. This is your opportunity to design your vest. You may add as many pockets as you want, and/or an elastic bullet casing, Step 2: Garment Construction Press under 1/4 on all 4 sides of pockets. Topstitch one edge. This will be the top of the pocket. Place and pin pockets in place.wherever you would like to place them. Topstitch the other 3 sides of pocket in place on the vest. Use a piece of 1/2 wide elastic, 2 long for the bullet casing. Stitch in place. Pin vest front 1a and vest front 2a right sides together. Pin right sides together vest front 1b and vest front 2b. On each, stitch the armhole seam, and the front and bottom edge (A). Leave the shoulder seams and side seams open. Clip and notch as needed (See instructions on page 92). Turn right side out, press, and topstitch the armhole seam only. Pin both back pieces, right sides together. Stitch the neckline seam, the armhole seam, and the bottom edge, leaving a 2 1/2 opening in the middle of the bottom edge for turning (B). You do not sew the shoulder and side seams. Do not turn right side out. Slide the front vest inside the back vest (C). Pin and stitch the shoulder seams and side seams. Repeat for the other side. Turn to the right side by pulling the fronts through the opening left open on the back bottom edge. Press. Hand stitch the opening closed. A. B. C. D. 39

40 Directions for: Camouflage, Fishing, and Hunting Vests Step 2: Garment Construction continued Topstitch the back armhole seam. Cut a 3 piece of black Velcro in half lengthwise. Lay the hook side up on the left front vest, and the loop side down on the right side vest, both extending 1/4 beyond the center front seam. This will act as, and actually look, like a zipper. You will sew the Velcro on as you topstitch around the outside of the vest (E). E. Materials and Supplies: 12 X 24 fabric 9 1/2 of 1/4 elastic Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric and finish the edges. Press flat. Directions for: Cargo Pants A. B. C. Step 2: Garment Construction While fabric is flat, press under 1/4, then 1/2 along top edge for waistline casing (A). Press under 1/4, then 1/2 on bottom edge for hem. Stitch hem in place. Press under all edges of both pockets 1/4. Topstitch one edge (B). Find pocket placement guide on pattern piece. Pin in place, and stitch the other 3 sides (C). Fold 2 other fabric pieces in half (flap pieces). Stitch the short ends of each. Turn right side out. Place the raw edge 1/4 above the top of the pocket. Stitch the flap in place. Fold down and topstitch the top edge of the flap. Insert 4 1/2 of 1/4 elastic into each leg casing. Sew each pant leg together (inseams). Press seam (D). Turn one leg right side out, and place inside the other pant leg. Stitch the crotch seam (E). Stitch the waistline casing, leaving a 3 opening. Insert a 9 1/2 piece of 1/4 elastic into the waistline casing (F). Attaching a pin to the end of the elastic will make this easier. Stretch to make the gathers even. Lay the raw edges of the elastic over each other, and zig zag to hold together (G). Stretch to pop this edge inside and even out the gathers. Finish stitching waistline casing together over opening. D. E. F. G. 40

41 Outdoor Zip Front Vest Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Vest Pocket Pattern Cut as many as you desire 41

42 Cargo Pants For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Add 1 1/2 to Length 42

43 Directions for: Velcro Back Shirt with Long or Roll-up Sleeve Materials and Supplies: 10 X 30 fabric piece 8 of 1/8 elastic 3 of Velcro Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. Press all pieces flat. Step 2: Garment Construction While flat, press the shirt bottom hem. Turn under 1/4, then 1/2. Do not stitch until later. Press hem in the bottom of cuffed sleeves. Turn under 1/4, then 1 1/2. Stitch this hem (A). Run 2 rows of gathering stitches (longest stitch length) from dot to dot across the top of the sleeve. Make one row 1/8 from the edge, and the other row 3/8 from the edge (B). Do to both sleeves. Pin and sew shirt front and back at the shoulder seams (C). Prepare bias band collar by stitching ends. Stitch to neckline (D). Clip the rounded edge. Finish neckline edges by under-stitching the seam allowance to the bodice neckline edge (E). Press under back closing first 1/4, then 1/2. Repeat for both sides. Cut 4 1/2 piece of Velcro in half lengthwise, making a long narrow piece. Sew the Velcro loop side to the underside of the left front piece. Sew the hook side of Velcro to the top side of the right piece (F). Pin sleeve cap in place, and then stitch (G). Pin and stitch a continuous seam from the tip of the sleeve to the bottom of the body piece (H). Repeat on both sides. Stitch hem in place (I). A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. 43

44 Shirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% Shirt Front Cut 1 on Fold Place on Fold Shirt Back Cut 2 44

45 Shirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Blouse Neckband Cut 18 X 1 Bias Band for Neckband 45

46 Directions for: Duffel Bag Materials and Supplies: 8 X 12 Fabric piece 1 yard 1/2 Grosgrain ribbon 8 Zipper Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric and finish edges. A. B. Step 2: Garment Construction Lay fabric out flat, and following the diagram and measurements on the pattern below, pin, then stitch the webbing (grosgrain ribbon) in place (A). Sew zipper onto 8 ends of your fabric (B). See information on exposed zipper application, page 93. Zip zipper together part way. Turn wrong side out. Lay out flat with the zipper in the middle. Stitch the side seams (C). For the 4 corners: Match the side seam to the bottom crease; With a pencil make a line 2 1/2 wide from the point formed across the corner. Stitch on this line (D). Repeat on the other side. Trim and zig-zag finish the edge (E). Turn right side out. C. D. Duffel Bag Cut 1 fabric 12 X 8 E. 2 1/2 8 1/2 2 1/2 9 46

47 Directions for: Backpack Materials and Supplies: 7 X 26 fabric piece 1 pkg. 1/2 twill tape 2 small grommets 1 yard drawstring cord Thread A. C. Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric pieces and finish the edges. Press flat. Step 2: Garment Construction Prepare pocket: Press the top edge down 3/8 and topstitch. Press the other 3 edges under 1/4. Select one end of the large rectangle to be the front, and mark as such. Pin the pocket in place, 2 from the top edge, and centered from side to side. Stitch in place (A). Cut twill tape into two 8 lengths for back straps. Lay one of the straps on the back piece 1 1/4 from the top edge, and 2 in from the outside edge. Fold the end under and stitch in place. Repeat for the other side. See B (below). Lay the strap back over itself, folding the other end under, and placing it 5 from the top edge. Stitch in place. Fold the 7 X 7 piece for pocket flap in half. Stitch the sides and bottom edge. You may round the pocket edges if you desire. Turn right side out, press and topstitch (C). Place 2 grommets on the top front center for the drawstring to pull through. Put them 1 from the edge, and 3/4 apart (G). Fold the body of the bag in half, right sides together. Stitch the side seams (D). On the bottom corner, match the side seam to the bottom fold. With a pencil make a line 2 wide from the point formed across the corner. Stitch on this line (E). Repeat on the other side. Turn right side out. Pin flap to back side of pack. Stitch in place at 3/4 seam allowance (F). Pull flap up, turn front edge under 3/4. Stitch all the way around the pack top edge, 5/8 from the top edge making a casing (G). Step 3: Finishing Thread the drawstring through the eyelets and casing. D. E. F. G. 2 B. Backpack Pattern: Cut 1 of each: Front Edge 2 Pocket X 5 X X 1 1/4 2 8 Body: 7 X 14 1/2 Flap: 7 X 7 Pocket: 3 X 4 47

48 Here are some clothes you can have fun with! A trip to the zoo, church, or just plain dress-up calls for this charming line of doll clothing patterns. Materials and Supplies: Fabric: 1/2 yard 3 Velcro 1 1/2 yard heart ribbon 3 heart buttons 1 pkg. red piping Directions for: Heart Sundress Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric from patterns on following pages. Apply seam finish to skirt edges. Press all pieces flat. Step 2: Garment Construction Sew bodice shoulder seams of outer and lining fabric (A). Lay one on top of the other, right sides together. Pin and stitch up center back around neckline and back down center back; Also stitch the armhole seams. Bottom edge and side seams are not sewn. Clip curves. Turn right side out by pulling the back pieces through the armholes. Press (B). Stitch together outer fabric and lining fabric side seams (C). Topstitch armhole and neckline seam edges (D). Apply the piping to the waistline outer fabric edge now (E). See page 98 for more information on attaching piping. Prepare the skirt. Turn up hem, 1/4 and again 1/2. Stitch in place. Lay bottom edge of heart ribbon on top of hem stitching. Stitch in place, both edges of ribbon.. Stitch skirt center back seam, leaving about 3 on top edge open. Press seam open and topstitch the top 3 (F). Gather top edge of skirt, and pin to outside bodice top (G, H). Stitch in place. Overcast stitch this seam edge, and press upward. Hand stitch lining over top of waistline seam (I). Place buttons on the bodice front to finish your garment. Apply Velcro to the back edges to fasten. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. I. 48

49 Sundress Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Sundress Skirt Cut 1 9 by the Width of the Fabric 1/4 Seam Allowance 1/2 Hem Allowed 49

50 Directions for: Heart Jacket Materials and Supplies: 1/4 yard fabric Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out jacket pieces and apply seam finish to edges. Press all pieces flat. Step 2: Garment Construction Stitch front and back shoulder seams (A). Press open. Lay front and backs out, right sides together. Pin and then stitch from side hem, around front, around neckline, back down front and bottom hem to the side seam (B). Clip curves. Turn right side out, press and topstitch (C). Turn up bottom edge of sleeve 1/4 and then 1/2. Stitch hems (D). Run gathering threads, 1/8 and 3/8 around cap of sleeve. Pin sleeve cap to jacket armhole (E). Stitch in place. Pin and then stitch sleeve underarm seam and side seams at the same time (F). A. B. C. D. E. F. 50

51 Heart Jacket Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 51

52 Heart Jacket Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 52

53 Directions for: Culottes Skirt Materials and Supplies: 1/4 yard lightweight denim 5 of 1/4 elastic Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric pieces and apply seam finishes. Press all pieces flat. Step 2: Garment Construction Stitch back crotch seam. While fabric is flat, press under 1/4, then 1/2 along back top edge for waistline casing and stitch (A). Insert 4 1/2 inch long piece of elastic. Pin ends to hold in place (B). Sew front crotch seam. Pin pleats in place following markings on pattern. Fold pleats to center (wrong side of fabric), and baste stitch in place at 1/4 (C). Stitch lengthwise edge of front waistband to top front, pleated edge (D). Pin front and back side seams, folding waistband over top of elastic casing (E) and stitching, making enclosed seam. Stitch in place (F). Press side seam forward. Topstitch this side seam (G). Turn under 1/2, then 1/2 again along bottom edge for hem. Stitch in place. Stitch leg inseams to finish. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. 53

54 Culottes Skirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 54

55 Culottes Skirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 55

56 Directions for: Button Front Vest Materials and Supplies: 6 1/2 X 25 Outer fabric 6 1/2 X 25 Lining fabric 3 Velcro 3 buttons for front 6 Square of Heat n Bond Lite Fabric scraps for Sunflower appliqué Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabrics, you do not need to finish edges. Apply Heat n Bond Lite to wrong sides of sunflower fabrics. Cut out. Step 2: Garment Construction Complete front sunflower appliqué, following the directions for appliqué on page 97. Place on vest left front. Adhere, and then stitch down stem, center of leaves, and inside circle of sunflower (A). Pin vest front pieces with lining pieces, right sides together. On each, stitch the armhole seam, and the front and bottom edge. Leave the shoulder seams and side seams open (B). Turn right side out, press and topstitch sewn edges (topstitching information on page 103). Pin back piece and lining, right sides together. Stitch the neckline seam, the armhole seam, and the bottom edge, leaving a 2 1/2 opening in the middle of the bottom edge for turning (C). You do not sew the shoulder and side seams. Do not turn right side out. Slide the front vest inside the back vest (D). Pin and stitch the shoulder seams and side seams. Repeat for the other side. Turn to the right side by pulling the fronts through the opening left on the bottom edge. Press. Then hand stitch the opening closed. Topstitch around back neckline and back bottom edge. Apply Velcro as a closure. Hand sew buttons to the top vest front to finish. A. B. C. E. D. 56

57 Button Front Vest Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 57

58 Directions for: Floppy Hat Materials and Supplies: 1/3 yard fabric, lightweight denim 1 1 sunflower button 1/2 yard grosgrain ribbon 5 X 20 lining fabric for wedges Thread A. B. Step 1: Cut out Cut out hat brim and wedge pieces from fabric and lining. Step 2: Garment Construction Stitch 3 sections of hat top together, outside and lining (A). Repeat with the other group of 3. Stitch both groups together (B). Notch curves. Stitch brim seam (C). Stitch outside edges of brim together (C). Notch curves, turn right side out and press. Topstitch around the brim, in one continuous stitching pattern, presser foot width apart (D). Place lining inside of outside hat top. Pin hat top to brim, and stitch (E). Stitch the edge of grosgrain ribbon to the seam, and hand tack inside to the hat top lining (F). Fold brim up on one edge and hand stitch a sunflower button on the turned up edge (G). C. D. E. F. G. 58

59 Floppy Hat Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 59

60 Directions for: Button Front Blouse with Banded Sleeve Materials and Supplies: 10 X 30 fabric piece 8 of 1/8 elastic 3 of Velcro Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. Press all pieces flat. Step 2: Garment Construction A. B. C. D. While flat, press the bottom hem. Turn under 1/4, then 1/2 (A). Do not stitch until later. Run 2 rows of gathering stitches (longest stitch length) across the sleeve cap. Make one row 1/8 from the edge, and the other row 3/8 from the edge (B). Do to both sleeves. For gathered sleeve, run gathering stitches along the bottom edge of each sleeve, as well as along the top (B). Fold sleeve band in half lengthwise. Pull up gathers to fit, and stitch together gathered edge and band (C). Set sleeves aside. Pin and sew blouse front and back at the shoulder seams (D). Prepare rounded or pointed collar (E). Stitch to neckline. Finish neckline edges by sewing bias tape onto seam line, pressing to shape and sewing to inside blouse neckline edge. Press under front closing first 1/4, then 1/2. Repeat for both sides. Cut 4 1/2 piece of Velcro in half lengthwise, making a long narrow piece. Sew the Velcro loop side to the underside of the left front piece. Sew the hook side of Velcro to the top side of the right front piece (F). Pull the top threads on your sleeve and gather them to fit the armhole opening. Pin in place, and then stitch between the two rows of stitching (G). Remove your gathering threads. Pin and stitch a continuous seam from the tip of the sleeve to the bottom of the body piece (H). Repeat on both sides. Stitch hem in place. You may sew on decorative buttons down the center front (I). E. F. G. H. I. 60

61 Blouse with Sleeve Band Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 61

62 Blouse with Puff Sleeve & Band Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% Front Button Blouse Patterns 62

63 Directions for: Sunflower Jumper Materials and Supplies: Fabric: 5 X 25 for jumper top Fabric: 1/4 yard fabric for skirt 3 Velcro 1 pkg. single fold wide bias tape for jumper 1 1/2 yard 3/8 sunflower ribbon for jumper stripe Sunflower buttons Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out patterns. Apply seam finish to skirt edges. A. B. C. D. Step 2: Garment Construction Sew bodice shoulder seams of outer and lining fabric (A). Lay one on top of the other, right sides together. E. Pin and stitch up center back around neckline and back down center back; Also stitch the armhole seams. Bottom edge and side seams are not sewn. Clip curves. Turn right side out by pulling the back pieces through the F. armholes (B). Press. Stitch together outer fabric and lining fabric side seams (C). Press (D). Prepare the skirt. Turn up hem, 1/4 and again 1/2. Stitch in place (E). Stitch single fold bias tape on both edges of the ribbon. G. Attach ribbon with bias tape to the skirt, laying the lower bias tape over the hem stitching. Stitch skirt center back seam, leaving about 3 on top edge open. H. Press seam open and topstitch the top 3 (F). Gather top edge of skirt, and pin to outside bodice top (G). Stitch in place. Overcast stitch this seam edge, and press upward (H). I. Hand stitch lining over top of waistline seam (I). Place buttons on the bodice front to finish your garment. Cut 4 1/2 piece of Velcro in half lengthwise, making a long narrow piece. Sew the Velcro loop side to the underside of the left front piece. Sew the hook side of Velcro to the top side of the right front piece (J). J. 63

64 Jumper Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Jumper Back Jumper Skirt Cut 1 9 by the Width of the Fabric 1/4 Seam Allowance 1/2 Hem Allowed Jumper Front 64

65 Dolly loves the sunshine. She will fit right in with your play in the sun in her new perky shorts and coordinating T-shirt with handy tote bag. Carry lunch to that secret fort you've made for her or the long-awaited wagon ride, and she will be outfitted for the occasion. Directions for: T-Shirts Materials and Supplies: 1/4 yard single knit fabric 1 1/2 ribbing 4 1/2 Velcro Thread A. B. Step 1: Cut out Cut out pattern pieces. Seam finishes are not necessary. Step 2: Garment Construction Apply appliqué to the front, if desired. Turn center back edges under 1/4. Cut 4 1/2 piece of Velcro in half lengthwise, and sew onto back turned under edges (D). Sew shoulder seams (A). Sew ribbing to neckline (B). Sew sleeve cap into bodice armholes. Turn up sleeve edge 1/2 and stitch. Pin and stitch up the underarm sleeve and down the bodice side seams (C). Turn up 1 and stitch the bottom hem. C. D. 65

66 T-Shirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 66

67 T-Shirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern T-Shirt Neck Ribbing Cut 1 Ribbing Fabric 67

68 Materials and Supplies: 1/4 yard fabric 10 elastic Thread Directions for: Shorts Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. Step 2: Garment Construction While fabric is flat, press under 1/4, then 1/2 along top edge for waistline casing (A). Press under 1/4, then 1/2 on bottom edge for hem. Stitch hem in place. Sew each pant leg together (inseams). Press seam (B). Turn one leg right side out, and place inside the other pant leg. Stitch the crotch seam (C). Stitch the waistline casing, leaving a 3 opening. Insert a 9 1/2 piece of 1/4 elastic into the waistline casing (D). Attaching a pin to the end of the elastic will make this easier. Stretch to make the gathers even. Lay the raw edges of the elastic over each other, and zig zag to hold together (E). Stretch to pop this edge inside and even out the gathers. Finish stitching waistline casing together over opening. A. B. C. D. E. 68

69 Shorts Pattern For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 69

70 Directions for: Tote Bag A. Materials and Supplies: 6 X 13 piece of fabric 1 yard of 1/2 gross grain ribbon Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric and finish edges. Press pieces flat. Step 2: Garment Construction On the two 6 ends, press to the wrong side 1/4, then 1. This will be your top hem. Lay fabric out flat, and following the diagram and measurements on the pattern, pin, then stitch the webbing in place (A). Fold the fabric in half, and with the pressed edges laying flat, stitch the two side seams (B). Fold the top pressed edge down, and stitch in place. For the 2 bottom corners: Match the side seam to the bottom crease; With a pencil make a line 1 1/2 wide from the point formed across the corner. Stitch on this line (C). Repeat on the other side. Turn right side out. B. C. See next page for measurements 1 1/2 70

71 Tote Bag Guide and Pattern Tote Bag 1 1/2 Cut 1 Fabric 12 X 8 2 1/2 71

72 So you woke up to snow? Get Dolly decked out in her new fleece wear you made yourself from these smart patterns. Vest, hat, scarf, and mittens will keep her comfy warm as she sleds with you or helps to build this season's first snow man. Directions for: Fleece Jacket Materials and Supplies: 1/4 yard Polar Fleece 7 Separating Zipper 2 Eyelets 20 Drawstring Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric from patterns on next page. No seam finishes, do not press. Step 2: Garment Construction Sew 7 zipper down both bodice fronts, right sides together (A). See information on sewing an exposed zipper, page 93. Turn zipper back, and topstitch in place. Sew front and back shoulder seams together (B). Prepare hood: Sew center back seam. Sew head top seam to center back seam (D). Apply grommets for drawstring, up 1 from neckline edge, and 3/4 in from front edge (E). Turn front edge under 1/2 and topstitch in place (E). Add drawstring. Pin and stitch hood to bodice neck opening (F). Stitch sleeve cap into armhole seam (G). Repeat on both sides. Hem sleeve by turning up 1/2 and stitching. Sew sleeve underarm seam from sleeve hem all the way up and then down the side seams (H). Turn up bottom edge 1/2 and stitch hem in place. A. B. C. D. E. F. G. H. 72

73 Fleece Jacket Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Head Top Seam Center Back Seam Neckline Edge 1 Front Edge fold under 1/2 for Drawstring 3/4 73

74 Fleece Jacket Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Jacket Back Cut 1 on Fold 74

75 Fleece Jacket Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Jacket Front Cut 2 fabric 75

76 Fleece Jacket Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 76

77 Directions for: Fleece Vest Materials and Supplies: 1/4 yard polar fleece 1 pkg. double fold bias tape 7 Separating zipper Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric pieces. You do not need to finish the seam edges. Step 2: Garment Construction Sew front and back shoulder seams together (A). Apply bias tape to top of the collar band (B). See directions on applying bias tape on page 102. Stitch collar band to neckline edge. Under stitch the seam allowance to the neckline edge (C). Apply bias tape to the armholes (D). Sew zipper onto the fronts, right sides together. Turn zipper back, and topstitch down the front (E). Sew the side seams (F). Apply bias tape to the bottom edge (G). A. B. C. D. E. F. G. Fold Vest Collar Cut 1 on Fold You may round the top corners if you prefer. 77

78 Fleece Vest Pattern For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 78

79 Directions for: Fleece Snow Hat Materials and Supplies: Fleece Print 7 X 14 Fleece plain fabric 4 X 8 1 pkg. bias tape to match plain fabric Step 1: Cut out Cut out a piece of fleece print fabric, 7 X 14. Cut 1/4 X 4 strips from white fabric (about 32) Stretch A. B. C. D. Step 2: Garment Construction Sew double fold bias tape to one long edge of fabric (A). Fold up 1 for the brim. With the brim folded up and on the inside, stitch the side seam (B). Lay the hat flat. At the top of the hat, match the seam to the folded edge directly across from it. Now lay the hat flat with pins in. You will take the 2 new folded edges, and pin them to the center (C). Stitch across these folds (D). Turn right side out (E). Make a pom-pom with your 1/4 X 4 strips. Lay them together, wrap a double thread around the middle of them and pull tight to make a pom-pom (F, G). E. F. G. Materials and Supplies: 2 X 22 piece of fleece Pinking shears Directions for: Fleece Snow Scarf Step 1: Cut out Cut out all edges with pinking Shears Cut up 2 on both long ends, spacing cuts 1/4 apart, for fringe. Fabric Stretch 79

80 Make matching blouse and skirt for you and Dolly. You both will look all dressed up for that special function whether it's Auntie Ann's graduation, big sister's wedding or a trip to see the Queen using these heirloom patterns! Materials and Supplies: 1/4 yard fabric 5 Velcro 1 yard insertion lace 5 small buttons Directions for: Fancy Blouse A. B. Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric back and sleeve pieces and apply seam finishes. Cut a 5 X 15 piece that you will use to complete decorative stitching on the front. Press all pieces flat. Step 2: Garment Construction You will complete the heirloom steps on the 5 X 15 fabric piece, stitching the short direction of the rectangle, then cut out the pattern front pieces. Center insertion lace 2 1/2 from the edge (A). See instructions on page 101. Stitch 2 rows of pintucks on each side of lace (1/4 away). See instructions on page 100. Decorative machine stitch on the collar and sleeve bands (C, D). See page 102. Cut out blouse front piece, centering on the insertion lace (B). Run 2 rows of gathering stitches (longest stitch length) across the top of the sleeve (E). Make one row 1/8 from the edge, and the other row 3/8 from the edge. Do to both sleeves. Run gathering stitches along the bottom edge of each sleeve, as well as along the top. Lay sleeve band across the bottom row of gathers. Pull up gathers to fit, and stitch together gathered edge and band (F). Set sleeves aside. C. D. E. F. 80

81 Pin and sew blouse front and back at the shoulder seams (G). Prepare rounded or pointed collar by sewing outer edges, clipping, turning, and pressing flat (H). Stitch flat collar to neckline. Finish neckline edges by sewing bias tape onto seam line, pressing to shape and sewing to the inside blouse neckline edge. Press under back closing first 1/4, then 1/2. Repeat for both sides. Cut 4 1/2 piece of Velcro in half lengthwise, making a long narrow piece. Sew the Velcro loop side to the underside of the left back piece. Sew the hook side of Velcro to the top side of the right front piece (I). Pull the top threads on your sleeve and gather them to fit the armhole opening. Pin in place, then stitch between the two rows of stitching (J). Remove your gathering threads. Pin and stitch a continuous seam from the tip of the sleeve to the bottom of the body piece (K). Repeat on both sides. Turn up under band at the bottom of the sleeves and hand stitch in place (L). Press hem under 1/4 then again 1/2. Stitch hem in place. G. H. I. J. K. L. Directions for: Gathered Skirt Materials and Supplies: 8 1/2 X 25 fabric piece 9 1/2 of 1/4 elastic Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric, and finish the edges. Press Flat Step 2: Garment Construction On each of the long ends, press under 1/4 to the wrong side. On the top edge (waistline) press under again 3/4 (A). On the bottom edge (hemline) press under again 1. Stitch back seam (short edges)/ Stitch the hem, and waistline casing leaving a 3 opening. Insert a 9 1/2 piece of 1/4 elastic into the waistline casing (B). Attaching a pin to the end of the elastic will make this easier. Stretch to make the gathers even. Lay the raw edges of the elastic over each other, and zig zag to hold together (C). Stretch to pop this edge inside and even out the gathers. Finish stitching waistline casing together over opening. Skirt Pattern Cut 1 rectangle 8 1/2 wide by 25 long A. B. C. 81

82 Fancy Blouse Patterns Blouse Front Cut after completing the heirloom steps. For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 82

83 Fancy Blouse Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 83

84 In the "good ole days" everyone wore aprons. Get ready to serve others in the kitchen or fix up around the house with these apron patterns. Directions for: Kitchen Apron A. Materials and Supplies: 6 X 20 fabric 1 pkg double fold bias tape Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric and press. You do not need to finish edges. Do not cut curve until later. Step 2: Garment Construction Fold in half lengthwise, and stitch side seams. Fold will become the bottom edge. Turn right side out and press. Topstitch if desired. Using apron curve pattern, cut out curve along top, unstitched edge and side seam (A). Apply bias tape to top edge (B). See information on page 102. Cut 2 pieces of bias tape, 22 inches long. Because dolls have large heads, you will tie the apron at the back of the neck to make it fit, as well as at the waist. Pin the bias tape in place, then stitch. Each neckline tie will be 7 1/2 long, and the waistline tie about 10 long (C). Repeat on both sides. Knot the tie ends. B. C. Folded Edge 7 1/2 84

85 Directions for: Shop Apron A. Materials and Supplies: 6 X 11 fabric 1 pkg. double fold bias tape Thread Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric, you do not need to finish edges. Press fabric flat. Using apron curve pattern, cut out curve along top, unstitched edge. Cut pocket: 2 1/4 X 2 1/4 square Step 2: Garment Construction Apply bias tape to top edge, and the lower edge of apron (A). See information on page 102. Press 1/4 under all 4 edges of top pocket. Topstitch one edge of pocket. Place pocket towards top, centered. Stitch around the other 3 edges (B). Turn up bottom edge of apron 3 and press. Divide the width into 3 equal pockets. Each should be about 2 inches wide. Draw these lines onto the fabric with a washout fabric marker, then zig-zag stitch on the line, using 3.0 width, 1.0 length (C). Apply bias tape to side edges of apron. Cut 2 pieces of bias tape, 22 inches long. Because dolls have large heads, you will tie the apron at the back of the neck to make it fit, as well as at the waist. Pin the bias tape in place, then stitch (D). The neckline tie will be 7 1/2 long, and the waistline tie about 10 long. Repeat on both sides. Knot the tie ends. B. C. D. 85

86 Kitchen Apron Pattern Kitchen Kitchen Side Shop Apron Pattern Shop Apron Shop Shop Apron Pocket 86

87 "Let's go jogging!" Dolly and I will join the growing number of healthy people who exercise to stay fit. We will be dressed for the track or gym with our easy to wear sweats and sweat shirt. We might even enjoy a cup of coffee upon our return! Directions for: Sweatshirt Materials and Supplies: 1/4 yard fabric 1 1/2 ribbing Appliqué, if desired Thread 4 1/2 Velcro Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric pieces. You do not need to finish the edges. Step 2: Garment Construction Apply appliqué to the front, if desired. Turn center back edges under. Cut 4 1/2 piece of Velcro in half lengthwise, and sew onto back turned under edges (A). Sew shoulder seams (B). Sew ribbing to neckline (C). Follow instructions on page 105. Sew sleeve cap into bodice armholes (D). Add ribbing to bottom edge of sleeve, and pin and stitch up the underarm sleeve and down the bodice side seams (E). Apply ribbing to the bottom edge of sweatshirt (F). A. B. C. D. E. F. 87

88 Sweatshirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Stretch Sweatshirt Hem Ribbing Cut 1 Ribbing Fabric 10 3/4 X 2 1/4 Seam Allowance Add Length Sweatshirt Neck Ribbing Cut 1 fabric Stretch 88

89 Sweatshirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Stretch 89

90 Sweatshirt Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern 90

91 Directions for: Sweatpants Materials and Supplies: 1/3 yd. fabric 20 elastic 1/4 wide Thread A. B. Step 1: Cut out Cut out fabric from patterns on next page.. You do not need to finish the edges of knit fabrics. Step 2: Garment Construction While fabric is flat, press under 1/2 along top edge for waistline casing (A). Press under 1/2 on bottom edge for elastic hem casing. Stitch casing hem in place. Insert 5 elastic into the leg hem casing, pinning the ends to prevent pulling out until sewn. Sew each pant leg together (inseams), double stitching over elastic in casing (B). Press seam. Turn one leg right side out, and place inside the other pant leg. Stitch the front and back crotch seam (C). Stitch the waistline casing, leaving a 3 opening. Insert a 9 1/2 piece of 1/4 elastic into the waistline casing (D). Attaching a pin to the end of the elastic will make this easier. Stretch to make the gathers even. Lay the raw edges of the elastic over each other, and zig zag to hold together (E). Stretch to pop this edge inside and even out the gathers. Finish stitching waistline casing together over opening. C. D. E. 91

92 Sweat Pant Patterns For sizing accuracy, print all patterns off at 100% 1/4 seam allowance included in pattern Add 4 to Length 92

93 You will need to know how to clip and notch seams for turning on several projects. Below are the basic guidelines on what to do where. Clipping Techniques for curves: Curves and Points Clip inside curves Notch outside curves The purpose of clipping and trimming your curved seam lines is to make your fabric lay flat after it is turned and pressed. Clipping means taking short snips with the scissors into the seam line. You will snip straight into, but not through the stitching on inside curves. Be careful. On outside curves, you will actually notch the fabric, so that when it is turned, there will not be too much fullness on the seam for the fabric to lay flat. You will again snip into, but not through the stitching, this time at an angle, using 2 snips to make a cut out V shape. Clipping Corners: Clip across outside corners Clip into inside corners You also need to eliminate extra fabric when an outside corner is turned. This time you will actually be clipping clear across the corner, at a 45 angle, being careful not to clip your threads. Simply clip into an inside corner, but not through your stitching. If you accidentally clip the thread in your stitching, re-stitch over the top of your first stitching prior to turning. 93

94 Exposed Zippers Zippers are used in and for everything. They re great for apparel as well as outdoor gear. They can be successfully sewn into doll clothing as well. In most cases, you will need to purchase a separating zipper. You will need a zipper foot for your machine. This foot is built so that the needle can be positioned on either side of the foot. You will stitch with the needle on the side closest to the zipper teeth. It allows you to stitch closer. To install an exposed zipper: Separate the zipper. Lay the zipper face down onto the right side of fabric so the teeth are 1/4 inch from the edge of the fabric. Turn tape ends back diagonally. Pin zipper in place, and stitch about 1/8 inch away from the zipper teeth. If not using lining, turn to right side. Press and topstitch. Repeat for other side. If you have lining:...pin lining fabric in place, right side next to zipper....turn over and stitch over the top of first stitching....turn right side out, and press fabric away from zipper....change back to your normal presser foot, and topstitch with the edge of the foot next to the teeth. Note: To avoid stitching by the zipper pull: stop with the needle down, raise the presser foot, slide the zipper pull back behind where you have already stitched, lower the presser foot, and continue stitching. 94

95 Sewing on Velcro Velcro is the most common used closure on doll clothing. It sews in nicely, little hands are able to open and close it, you can add buttons to the top side, and the hook and loop combination provides a secure closing that doesn t come undone. Cut in half lengthwise A few tips for sewing in Velcro: Cut your Velcro to the recommended length, and then cut the strip in half lengthwise. This will eliminate bulk and size it for the doll clothing. Only use sew-in Velcro. The sticky dots will not stick well enough, and if you try to sew them in, you will encounter problems with your machine as the needle will become gummed up and cause stitching problems. Advantage: Velcro makes it easy for little hands to dress her dolly. Disadvantage: It can snag in Dolly s hair. Sewing the Velcro to the Garment: Sew with the Velcro on the top, next to the presser foot; Fabric should be on the underside. Increase your stitch length to Sew all 4 edges, placing your needle in down position to turn the corners. Try to stitch along the edge of the tape when possible, otherwise 1/8 in from the edge. You can use Wonder Tape to hold the Velcro in position for sewing, eliminating the need for pins, which do not go through the Velcro very easily. 95

96 Sewing on a Snap Snaps are used to hold together overlapping edges that don t have a lot of strain or pull, and where you do not want a visible closure. You may use snaps to hold areas closed on your doll clothes. There are two parts to sew-in snaps: 1. The ball - which is attached to the under side of the overlap. 2. The socket - which is attached to the right side of the underlap. Ball Socket Attach the Ball: Sew on the ball first. Use a double thread, knotting both ends of the thread together. Hide the knot between the fabric and the snap. Stitch through one hole several times, keeping the stitches close together. Make sure you do not stitch through the outer side of the fabric! After your last stitch, run your needle under the snap and bring it up through the next hole. Continue on, stitching through all four holes. Make 3 tiny stitches beside the last hole, take your thread between the fabric layers and come up about about 1/2 inch from the snap. This leaves a tail and your hand stitching won t be so apt to pull out. Trim your thread close to the fabric. Attach the Socket: Place the socket directly beneath and in line with the ball you just attached. Repeat instructions, as for sewing on the ball. 96

97 Gathering Fabric Gathering (also easing), is what you do to make a longer piece of fabric fit a shorter piece of fabric. It is used in many applications, including waistlines, sleeves, ruffles, and edging. The following steps will produce nice looking, evenly spaced gathers that will lay flat. How to Gather: Do not starch your fabric. To baste stitch, set the stitch length to about 4 or 5. This should give you around six stitches per inch. Stitch one row of baste stitching on the piece to be gathered, right side up, 1/8 from the edge of the fabric, and another row 3/8 from the edge of the fabric. Do not backstitch, and leave the thread tails long (1). With right sides together, pin the section to be gathered to the shorter one, matching and pinning at notches, seams, and markings (2). Fasten the bobbin threads at one end by wrapping them around a pin in a figure 8 fashion (3). Gently pull the bobbin threads from the other end of the gathering piece until it fits the shorter section (4). Distribute the gathers evenly and pin in place. Place your pins into the body of the fabric (5). Stitch with the gathered side up, right down the middle of the two basting rows (6). This will make the finished stitching at 1/4. Be careful to not let tucks form. Once you are satisfied with your finished seam, take the pin with the wrapped thread ends out, and pull once again on the bobbin threads from the other end until they are removed. You may now simply lift off the top layer of basting threads, leaving a nicely finished seam (7). If you like, you may stitch basting threads in a contrasting color, since they will be removed, making it easier to see where to put the final stitching

98 Appliqué with Heat n Bond Lite Appliqué is a technique in which a design is cut from one fabric, placed onto a fabric background, and then stitched in place around the edges. Please Note: Match the weight and fiber content of the appliqué fabrics to that of the background fabrics. Preshrink the appliqué fabric the same as you do the garment fabric. Cut your appliqués on the same grain line as your garment to avoid stretching. Medium to heavyweight cottons are the easiest fabrics to appliqué. Use a clear, plastic, zigzag presser foot so you can see the fabrics under the foot while stitching. We suggest using Heat'n'Bond Lite for a no-pucker bond that will make stitching your appliqué easy. Directions below are for using this product. When applying several layers of appliqué, as in the vest back, be sure to start with the background piece first, and work from the bottom layer up to the top layer. Applying Heat n Bond for Appliqué: Pre-heat your iron to silk setting. Do not A. B. use steam. Draw your design, upside down, onto the Heat'n'Bond Lite paper backing (A). Cut out, cutting it slightly larger than the appliqué design (B). Place Heat'n'Bond Lite, paper side up, onto the wrong side of appliqué fabric. Glide your iron across the paper side for C. D. 1-2 seconds (C). Allow the fabric to cool and then cut out your design (D - cut on broken line). Peel off the paper backing. The adhesive on the fabric should be milky in color (E). Place your appliqué right side up onto the right side of your garment. Fuse in place by ironing for 3-5 seconds. E. F. Zigzag stitch at about 0.8 stitch length and stitch width around the outline and inner details of your appliqué. Make sure the fabric does not show between the stitches (F). We will be using Quick Bias. 98

99 Piping A Seam Piping is used to accentuate a construction feature or design lines on your garment. It gives your garment a lovely, tailored, expensive look. You may select a matching or contrasting color, depending upon the application. Though you can make your own piping, it is fairly inexpensive to purchase ready made. Piping is made by folding a bias strip around a cotton filler cord, and stitching it onto your garment next to the cord. Applying Piping to Your Garment: Put a zipper foot onto your machine. This foot will allow you to stitch close to the cording (1). Pin and stitch the piping to the right side of your garment on the seam line, using a normal stitch length. Lay the corded edge towards the main body of the piece, and place the bias edge into the seam line (2). To finish the ends, pull fabric back 1 1/2 on the piping, exposing the filler cord (3). Cut the filler cord off just inside the end of the opening, leaving the fabric covering intact (4). Fold in the bias ends and re-stitch the piping enclosing the filler cord (5). Pin in place, right sides together, the other garment piece that is to be joined to the piped edge (6). Stitch with the side that shows your previous stitching on the top, over the same line of stitching (7). Clip or notch curves and corners. Press Apply piping on an edge without a closing: 9. Take out some stitches, and pull the fabric back 1 1/2 on the piping, exposing the filler cord. Cut filler cord off just inside the end of the opening, leaving the fabric covering intact (8). Fold the bias tape end inside itself 1/2. Bring the other end up and clip it off just where it meets the clipped end of the filler cord (9). Fold the loose bias over the top of this end, and stitch in place (10)

100 Stitching Pintucks Pintucks make a beautiful addition to garments and heirloom sewing projects. Pintuck presser feet are available for most machines, and make stitching pintucks quick, easy, and effortless! Three items are essential for success in making pintucks. Straight Pintucks The Pintuck Presser Foot - Has several grooves (3, 5, or 7) under the bottom of the foot. The groove directly under the needle allows room for the fabric to be taken up into a pintuck. The other grooves ensure even spacing between pintucks when a previously stitched pintuck is put under another groove. The Double Needle - Thread your machine using two spools of thread, making sure one thread goes on each side of the tension disc, and then run a thread through each needle. Your bobbin stays the same. The bobbin will catch both threads, pulling them together to create the tuck. Double needles come in different sizes. The wider the needles, the deeper the pintuck. I find that a number 2.0 double needle makes a very nice pintuck on batiste fabric for heirloom sewing projects. Spray Starch - Spray the starch onto your fabric and press dry to stiffen the fabric and give a crisp pintuck that does not pucker. Spray your fabric with spray starch. Press until dry. Mark with a washout marking pen, exactly where you want your first row to be placed. Mark your center pintuck first and work out from both sides. Insert double needle and thread machine with 2 spools of thread. Be sure threads go on each side of tension disc. Put pintuck foot onto your machine. Change upper thread tension to about 5 6. Use a stitch length of about Always practice first to make sure that these are the correct adjustments for your machine. Stitch your first row. Turn your fabric around so you will be stitching in the opposite direction. Place the first stitched row into an outer groove on your foot, and use it as a guide for stitching the next row. Stitch the next row on the other side of the center. (Continued on next page) 100

101 Pintucks (continued) Continue stitching, working from side to side, and turning your fabric in opposite directions for stitching, until you have completed as many rows as you desire. Changing stitching directions will keep your fabric even, and prevent it from stretching out of shape. For the most pleasing look, always stitch an uneven number of pintucks within a group...3, 5, or 7. Lace Insertion Lace inserted into the design of a garment or article adds a touch of femininity, elegance and beauty. Inserting lace is really quite simple. Press your lace and starch the fabric you will be inserting it into. Lay the lace in exact position. Pin down the middle to hold in position. Place stabilizer under the area to be stitched. Stitch down both sides of the lace, in the same direction. --Use a short, narrow zigzag stitch or --If you have access to a newer machine, use the pinstitch, which is an heirloom machine stitch which looks similar to a blanket stitch. A wing needle is recommended for pinstitching. Do not backstitch. Tie the ends together and trim. Tear away the stabilizer on the back. Carefully trim out the fabric from behind the lace, using pocket scissors. 101

102 Fancy Machine Stitches Find a stitch on your machine that you like. Re-thread the top thread with a rayon thread. Rayon is shiny. We recommend Sulky. Refer to your machine s manual on adjustments to make for the stitch you have chosen. Adjust your tension, stitch width, stitch length, and change to the proper presser foot for the stitch you have chosen. Place a piece of stabilizer under your fabric, which will prevent your fabric from puckering. Stitch out a sample. When you have completed the fancy stitches on your projects, carefully tear away the stabilizer from the backside. Press from the backside only. Making Tucks Nothing is more impressive than rows of folded tucks! Making tucks is one of the easiest heirloom techniques. Here s how: With washout marking pen, draw a line where you want the fold of the tuck to be. Press a crease on this fold. Straight stitch the appropriate width from the fold on your machine. Press the tuck downward from the backside. Some guidelines for making beautiful tucks: Tucks go in best when place on the lengthwise or crosswise grain line of your fabric. Bias tucks work, but will require extra care. Curved tucks work only on gentle curves and tucks that are 1/4 or less. Accurate markings are essential. Use a fine washout marking pen to draw your lines. Stitching must be straight to prevent waves. You will need a guide. If you do not have a computerized machine, you may like to use a magnetic seam guide. If you use your needle plate guide, lengthen the guide lines with a piece of painter s removable tape. For narrower tucks, you can use the width of the presser foot. You can have control of narrow tucks by moving your needle position, left or right, letting your presser foot hold the fabric. 102

103 Applying Bias Tape Bias tape is used to finish the edges of fabric. Because it is cut on the bias, it has a lot of stretch. It can be molded to almost any shape with a little steam from your iron. It is best to shape it, prior to applying it, to a curve where there is a lot of fullness to work in. The pre-shaping doesn t have to be perfect - just get the general shape - and then you will press as you go to make it fit perfectly. Applying Bias Tape: Bias tape has 3 folds - one in the middle, and two on edges that fold in. As you look at the outside folds, you will notice that one edge is 1/16 inch wider than the other. Identify the narrower edge, and unfold that edge. With the narrow edge folded out, line up the raw edge of the tape with the raw edge of the wrong side of your fabric. Pin your tape in place, and then straight stitch along the fold line. Now fold the tape back over itself. This will encase the edge of your fabric, and the tape will automatically fold over the right side of your fabric. Steam press your tape in place to lay flat or to follow the curve of your fabric. Pin this edge in place, making sure that the outside folded edge of the tape folds over far enough to cover your row of stitching from the underneath side. Topstitch with either a straight or zig-zag stitch. The Bias Tape method makes a clean finished edge for your project. 103

104 Topstitching On Your Doll s Clothes Topstitching is stitching applied to the right side of the fabric. It is used for decoration as well as to help hold the different layers of fabric and batting in place. Traditionally, you would match your thread color to the color of your garment or quilt, but if you want to make the topstitching stand out and add detail, you may use a different colored thread. How to Topstitch: Increase the length of your stitches to 3.5. Line the edge of the presser foot up with the seam line or your outline. This will make your stitching 3/8 away from the seam or object. Move your needle position to make the stitching wider or narrower. Stitch, being careful that your stitching is straight, as it will show. Do not backstitch, as it will show from the right side. When possible, pull your top thread through to the backside and tie a square knot (page 10). Thread the thread tail ends onto a hand sewing needle and run it between the layers of fabric. Then clip threads close to fabric. 104

105 Sewing on a Button You will be making garments that will require you to know how to sew on buttons and make buttonholes. There are 2 types of buttons: shank and sew-through. You must make your own shank when using flat, sew-through buttons. Buttons with shanks have a part which extends below the button and allows room for the buttonhole to fit without puckering. Flat, sew-through buttons with holes and without shanks are more common. There are usually two or four holes in a flat button. You will need to make your own thread shank when sewing flat buttons. For both types, start with a double strand of thread in your needle, about 20 inches long. Tie a knot in the end of the thread. From the wrong side of the fabric, bring up the needle and thread exactly where you want the center of the button. For shank buttons: bring the thread through the hole in the shank, then down through the fabric very close to where the first thread entered. Repeat this procedure, up from the bottom, through the shank, down the fabric, five or six times. Secure the threads underneath the button by taking about three small stitches in one place, then running the needle between the layers of fabric and back down to the wrong side, about 1/2 inch away. Clip the thread. For a flat button: bring the needle and thread up through the fabric where you want the center of the button to be placed, and then through one hole in the button. Place a toothpick on top of the button, between the holes. Sew over the toothpick as you take the thread down through the other holes and on through the fabric. Repeat this process five times. Bring up the thread through the fabric, but not the button. Remove the toothpick. Lift the button to the top of the stitches, and you will notice that there is a thread space between the button and fabric. Wind the thread tightly around that thread space, three times to form the shank. Take your needle back through to the back side of your fabric. Secure the threads underneath by taking about three small stitches in one spot, then running the needle between the layers of fabric and back down to the wrong side, about 1/2 inch away. Clip your thread. 105

106 Ribbing Ribbing is an easy way to finish the necklines, sleeves, and waistlines on knit fabrics. It is very stretchy, and will conform a larger piece of fabric into a smaller size without gathers, and lay pucker-free. The ribbing is sewn into a circle first, and then serged onto the garment. To Apply Ribbing to a Round Area: Cut neckline ribbing 1 1/4 wide; Cut sleeve cuff and waistline ribbing 2 wide. Measure the distance around the opening you will be applying the ribbing to. Compute 2/3 of the distance. This is how long you will cut your ribbing. Cut the length on crosswise grain, with the greatest stretch. With a 1/4 seam allowance, stitch the narrow ends together to make a circle (A). Twist top seam allowance one direction, and the bottom half of the seam allowance the other direction (B). Fold the ribbing in half, with the wrong sides together (C). Quarter the ribbing, and quarter the neckline (or end of sleeve or waistline). Pin these quarters together with the seam in the center back. Place either side of ribbing onto the right side of the garment (D). Sew onto the fabric, and serge the seam. Stretch the ribbing as you sew to fit the garment s edge (E). To end the seam, sew over the beginning stitching, overlapping the seams, and sew off. Dab threads with Fray Check. Trim threads when dry. A. B. C. D. F. Ribbing that is stretched too much Ribbing not stretched the right Ribbing stretched the right causes puckers in the neckline amount stands away from the amount hugs the body. of the garment. body. Cutting ribbing for other necklines: Oval necklines - cut ribbing 3/4 the size of the neckline with most stretch over the shoulder area. V necklines - cut ribbing 3/4 the size with only a slight stretch down the front. Turtlenecks - cut ribbing the same size as the neckline. Round necklines - Cut 2/3 the size. 106

107 You can dress Dolly for any occasion or situation with the following patterns available at Dolly s Best Friends Kids love these dolls! They are bendable, soft, snuggly, and easier to dress and pose than a vinyl doll. All the dolls have sewn on yarn doll hair, which little ones can style with their little fingers. Be sure to personalize your dolly for that special little girl by matching hair color, eye color, skin tones and even a matching outfit! This18 doll pattern gives you complete, detailed, illustrated directions for making a cloth doll as well as the clothing she is wearing. Dolly s Wardrobe Sewing doll clothes is rewarding if you like to play with, look at, or collect dolls. Whether you are a child, mom, grandma, aunt or friend, dolls and doll clothes make wonderful gifts for those you love. This book offers you a multitude of doll patterns (40) for dressing your doll for multiple occasions. All with complete, detailed directions and illustrations. Techniques are explained to make sewing doll clothes easier and help provide the best fit. Young hands will be eager to dress up their dolls and help create beautiful wardrobes for any occasion they can imagine! Dolly s Dresses Dolly s Dresses This book is not just written to offer you a multitude of doll dress patterns, but to show you sewing techniques to make sewing these clothes easier. You will create beautiful doll clothes for eager young hands to dress up their favorite beloved doll. Over 35 patterns with detailed directions and illustrations include dresses, sundresses, jumpers, blouses, skirts, a variety of collars, and accessories. Dolly Goes Denim Using soft lightweight denim and small prints or plaids, create a denim wardrobe for that special someone s doll. Whether you are looking for cute and casual, or a more western style, these denim patterns have that everyday appeal girls love. This book contains 20 patterns with detailed instructions and professional illustrations to make complete outfits which are sure to be a hit. Enjoy sewing outfits as unique and special as your own special girl. Dolly s Favorite Quilts From the simplest snuggle quilt to the more challenging heirloom quilt, the quilt projects, in this book will give you a chance to work with a variety of fabrics including cottons, light weight denim, and batiste. You will also learn basic machine quilting, piecing, and binding techniques. Starting with the most basic of quilts and working up to the more difficult, each one presents something new in techniques piecing, raggedy edges, quilt fuse, heirloom stitches, and appliqué. This is a wonderful opportunity for beginners to learn these techniques on a small scale. 107

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