FOUNDATION ~ HAND & MACHINE STITCHES

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1 FOUNDATION ~ HAND & MACHINE STITCHES AIM ~ To show some of the many hand and machine stitches and their uses. ~ To show the necessity of some of the stitches when sewing seams. 3. SEAMS ~ Straight open seam ~ Closed seam ~ Seam finishes ~ Enclosed seams ~ Piped seams 2. MACHINE STITCHES ~ Straight machine stitch ~ Overcasting stitches ~ Blind hem stitch ~ Feather stitching ~ Top stitching 1. HAND STITCHES ~ Tailor s tacking ~ Backstitching ~ Slipstitch ~ Whip stitch ~ Parallel padding stitching ~ Cross stitch ~ Herringbone stitch ~ Blind hemming ~ Blanket stitching ~ Decorative finishing stitches

2 1. HAND STITCHES 2. Hand stitches are an integral part of well made garments that give them a Haute Couture look and finish. These hand stitches can either be temporary or permanent with a decorative or functional purpose. 1. TEMPORARY TACKING STITCHES 1) Even tacking 2) Long and short tacking 3) Diagonal tacking 4) Edge basting 5) Thread marking 6) Tailors tacking 7) Slip Tacking 2. PERMANENT STITCHES 1) Running Stitch 2) Backstitch 3) Blanket Stitch 4) Buttonhole stitch 5) Herringbone stitch 6) Slip stitch 7) Blind stitch 3. DECORATIVE STITCHES 1) Arrow head 2) Bar tack 3) French tack 4) Blanket stitch 5) Buttonhole stitch

3 1. TEMPORARY TACKING STITCHES 3. Temporary stitches are used to hold 2 or more pieces of fabric together prior to permanent stitching. Some tacking is used as A guide line for hand or machine stitching. The importance of Tacking:- Whether you are a beginner or proficient sewer, it is vitally important to use tacking stitches as a guideline, as a marker or holding fabric together before permanent stitching. It creates a good fitting garment with a professional finish. 1) Even tacking: (or Basting) ~ Characterized by short ¼ (6mm) stitches with the same space apart. Work from right to left taking evenly spaced stitches. Used in areas such as curved seams that require a lot of control. 2) Long and short tacking: (or uneven tacking) ~ Has a stitch of ¼ (6mm) with a space of ¾ (2cm). Used on edges that need less control during permanent stitching. Samples made by Liza Perryman

4 3) Diagonal Tacking: 4. ~ This stitch is used to hold linings, facings and interfacings in position prior to permanent stitching. ~ Working from right to left, place the needle horizontally into the fabric for ¼ (6mm). The next stitch is placed parallel to that moving upwards ¾ (2cm). Repeat the process moving vertically. 4) Edge basting: ~ This stitch is used to give a clean flat finish to seams after pressing. ~ The stitches are 1/8 (3mm) from the seam. 5) Thread marking: ~ These are looped stitches usually done with a double thread leaving 1 (2cm) loops on the surface of the fabric. When pulled apart it leaves thread markings on the top and bottom fabric. ~ They mark dart or button positioning Samples made by Liza Perryman 6) Tailors tacking: ~ These are too are looped stitches using a double thread leaving 1 (2cm). When pulled apart it leaves thread markings on the top and bottom fabric. ~ They mark centre lines or fold lines.

5 7) Slip Tacking: 5. ~ This is a temporary holding stitch for precise matching of plaids, checks and large prints. ~ Fold one side of garment on seam line, and place in position on the seam line of the corresponding garment seam. ~ a ¼ (6mm) stitch is taken on the lower section and then the the next stitch through the fold on the upper edge. 2. PERMANENT STITCHES Permanent hand stitches are used to neaten and enhance a garment giving it a polished professional finish. They are used to put up hems, as decorative topstitch, holding stitches, buttonholes and many more. 1) Running Stitch: ~ These are short even stitches, used for fine seaming, tucking, mending, gathering, quilting and delicate sewing. It is similar to even tackling but the stitches are smaller and more controlled. 2) Back Stitch: ~ This is one of strongest hand stitches that is used to repair seams. ~ Bring needle and thread to front of fabric. Put needle 1/8 (3mm) behind where the needle exited the fabric, and let it come up 1/8 (3mm) infront of where the thread comes out the fabric. Repeat working back to front. RUNNING STITCH Sample made by Liza Perryman

6 6. 3) Herringbone Stitch: ~ It can be used as a decorative stitch or to hold together a facing to the front facing of a garment or for hems. ~ work from left to right and start above the raw edge, bring the thread over to the right. Take a small stitch below the raw edge, and the next above the raw edge and 5mm to the right. Continue alternating the stitches in this way. 4) Slip stitch: ~ Used for fixing hems and facings into position where an invisible finish is required. ~ Fold raw edge of hem back and working from the right, prick through one yarn of fabric, pull needle out and thread through 5mm into the the folded edge of the hem. Repeat. SLIP STITCH 5) Blind hem Stitch: ~ This stitch is used to sew two folded edges of material together from the right side, or sewing the edges of a a tie belt closed after it has been turned through. ~ Pierce the needle through one folded edge taking a little of the fabric. Pierce the fold of the fabric on the opposite side, and repeat process. BLIND HEM STITCH DIAGONAL TACKING Sample made by Liza Perryman

7 3. DECORATIVE STITCHES 7. 1) Arrowhead: ~ This is a triangular reinforcement stitch used at points of tension.eg: back of skirt vents, ends of pockets. ~ With chalk mark the shape you want for your arrow head on the right side. Run two small stitches coming up left lower corner. At top point take small stitch right to left. Insert needle at lower right corner coming out at left corner just before previous stitch. Repeat using chalked triangle guideline. 2) Bar tack: ~ This is a straight reinforcement stitch used at points of strain like the ends of a hand worked buttonhole or the corners of a pocket. A bar tack can also be used to form a loop for hook (hooks and eyes) as well as using the same stitch technique to make an eyelet for a belt prong. ~ Bring needle and thread through to the right side. Put needle into fabric a distance away (the length of the bar tack) and let it come up in the same point. Repeat 3 times. Catching the fabric underneath, repeat the blanket stitch process over the threads until they are covered. 3) French tack: ~ This is made similar to the bar tack only that the ends of the tack are attached to two different pieces of fabric. It is used to hold lining to the body of the garment as in skirts, dresses and jackets. ~ Take a stitch through one garment and a stitch through the other garment leaving a 2.5cn (1 ) space of threads between. Repeat the blanket stitch process over the threads until they are covered. Samples made by Liza Perryman

8 4) Blanket Stitch: ~ It is traditionally an embroidery stitch, but the same method is used to form a bar tack. It is mostly used as a decorative stitch. ~ Working from left to right with the edge of the fabric facing you, insert the needle from the right side keeping the thread under the needle to form the stitch. Move needle into fabric 1/8 (3mm) away from last stitch, thread under the needle. Repeat to form stitch. 8. 5) Buttonhole stitch: ~ Used for decorative purposes to make hand worked buttonholes. ~ work from right to left, the point of the needle toward you, but edge of fabric away from you. The stitches are formed closely together by looping the thread around the needle from the left. Pull the needle through and the stitch is held in place by the purl loop. Sample made by Liza Perryman

9 2. MACHINE STITCHES 9. 1) Straight stitch with back tack: ~ Back tacking is used to secure machine stitches at the beginning and end of a seam. ~ Straight machine stitch is the basis for all garments being stitched together. The stitch length can vary from small to large stitches. Finer fabrics such as georgette will use a finer needle and take a smaller sewing stitch. Whilst heavier fabric such as denim, twill and corduroy will take thicker needles and generally use a longer stitch. Very long stitches are used to tack parts together, or to gather a section. 2) Overcasting Stitches: ~ These stitches like a zig zag are used to neaten off the edges of a garment. Sewing machines with overcasting or seam finishing stitches will not cut the end and then stitch the fabric like a serger will. This is a whole separate machine that only does an overlocking stitch. A sewing machine will sew the overcasting stitch when placed at the end of the seam allowance. 3 THREAD OVERLOCKING STITCH ZIG ZAG OVERCASTING STITCH STRAIGHT MACHINE STITCHING Sample made by Liza Perryman

10 3) Blind hem Stitch: 10. ~ This is a straight stitch accompanied by a 1 zig zag stitch and is used mainly as a hemming stitch. ~ The hem is folded up and then turn the hem back on itself as (figure 1). ~ With wrong side upper most begin stitching just below the fold of the hem. ~ The straight stitches will lie on the lower hem, whilst the zig zag will pierce a small amount of the fold. Test this on some scrap fabric before doing your hems. (figure 2) Figure 1 Figure 2 Samples made by Liza Perryman 4) Feather stitch: ~ This stitch is used for stretch fabrics as well as a decorative stitch in quilting. 5) Topstitching: ~ This is used as a decoration as well as to either hold a seam flat or open. It usually highlights a seam and gives it a more professional look. TOPSTITCHING DETAIL

11 MORE MACHINE STITCHES 11. Straight stitch Zig-zag stitch used for stretch fabrics or finishing of seam allowance Triple stitch zig-zag - Overcasting stitch for finishing of seam allowance Decorative stitch Tripple zig-zag used to attach elastic for panties or waist elastics. Over lock stitch - used for stretch fabrics Blind hem stitch for putting up hems. Samples made by Liza Perryman

12 3. SEAMS AND SEAM FINISHES SEAM FINISHES Seam finishes refers to how the seam allowances are finished off once your seams have been sewn together. 1) Pinked: ~ Cut along the edge with pinking shears. Or stitched first and then pinked. 2) Turned and stitched: ~ Seams stitched and then the edges turned under 3mm and edgestitched. 3) Zig zagged edge: ~ Stitch is set to medium width and then the edge of the seam allowance is stitched a foots distance away from the edge. The excess is trimmed away. 4) Bound edge: ~ Using ready made bias binding pin along edges and then edgestitch along the fold catching the top and bottom evenly. 5) Overlocked open seams: ~ Each seam is overlocked on a serger and then stitched together and pressed open. PINKED & STRAIGHT STITCHED SEAMS TURNED AND STITCHED ZIG ZAGGED BOUND EDGE OVERLOCKED OPEN SEAMS Sample made by Liza Perryman

13 BOUND SEAM SAMPLES: 13. READY MADE BINDING ATTACHED T O SEAM EDGE BOUND SEAM WITH STITCH IN THE DITCH Samples made by Liza Perryman

14 ENCLOSED SEAMS Enclosed seams refers to seams that are totally enclosed within the finished seam. They are used for sheer fabrics, unlined jackets seams and on garments that will have lots of wear or strain on the seams. (like denim jeans) 1) French seam: ~ This seam is used especially on sheer fabrics where the seam would otherwise be visible. ~ The seam is stitched twice. Once stitching the seams to the right side of the fabric. Then again when the seams are pressed over themselves right sides of the fabric together and stitched again, enclosing the raw seams in on themselves. 2) Flat felled seam: ~ This seam is very sturdy and is used mostly for sports gear and jeans. ~ Take care though to keep the widths even as it does have a decorative look. ~ Stitch seams to right side of the garment, wrong sides facing. ~ Press seams to one side and trim the inner seam down by ½. ~ Fold longer edge over the short edge and edgestitch the seam down. FLAT FELLED SEAM

15 PIPED SEAMS Piped seams are used in both the clothing and home decorating industries. Piping is a way of decorating or highlighting seams and can be places in Straight seams, curved seams or square corned seams. Piping can be made in your own fabric by cutting true bias strips 4cm (1 ½ ) and stitching sturdy string between the folded strip. 1) Straight piped seams: ~ Pin piping to right side of one seam allowance. Align the piping stitch line with the seam line. Raw edges facing outwards. ~ Zipper foot is attached and lies on the right of the piping on the seam allowance. Stitch as closely as you can to the piping. ~ Place other body of fabric on top of the piping and pin in place. Stitch again as close as you can to the piping. ~ Trim the layers down to reduce bulk. (working from the bottom layer trim the next layer down by a couple of mm to reduce bulk) STRAIGHT CORDED PIPED SEAMS 2) Rounded piped seam: ~ Process is repeated as above taking care to place the piping on stitching line even around the curve. Maybe chalk mark the exact place for the stitching line. Clip seam allowance on piping. 3) Squared piped seam: ~ Process is as above and take care to place the piping on exact stitching line on square. Clip into corner so piping can turn easly. ROUNDED CORDED PIPED SEAM SQUARED CORDED PIPED SEAM

16 Complete guide to sewing Published by 2. Compiling of some of the material and samples, by Liza Perryman

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