Gentleman s Suit. for 17 Super Hero. Tamara Casey. Designed by. Super103 $12.95 US

Transcription

1

2 Gentleman s Suit for 17 Super Hero Designed by Tamara Casey Super103 $12.95 US 2010, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

3 Gentleman s Suit For 17 Super Hero Men / Jacob Black Throughout the entire construction of all garments you will use a ¼ seam allowance. This seam allowance is already included within the dimensions of the pattern. Some of the garments are un-lined or partially lined. It is recommended that you finish exposed seams with an overlock or zigzag stitch. Press the garment as you work through each step. Shirt: Pants: Jacket: Tie: Notions: lightweight cottons, calicos and broadcloths lightweight cottons, broadcloths, woolens, suiting lightweight cottons, broadcloths, woolens, suiting cotton print, satin, silks (9) 4/0 snap sets, (8) 1/8 buttons, (2-3) 3/16 th buttons Pants 1. Sew darts is pants back section. 2. Create pleat in pants front, press, baste in place. 3. Right sides together sew pants front to pants back along side raw edge. Clip curves as needed and press seam allowance to one side. 4. Wrong sides together fold bottom raw hem edge of pants under approx. 3/8 or less and hard press. Using a machine or hand stitch secure hem into place. 5. Right sides together sew center backs of pants together along curved crotch edge. Clip curves and press seam allowance open. 6. Right sides together sew one lengthwise edge of waistband to top raw edge of pants, starting and stopping at mock fly. Trim away any excess waistband that extends beyond either front fly. Wrong sides together fold the left fly and waistband under approx. ½ as indicated by fold lines on pattern pieces. Hard press. Fold waistband over seam allowance, lengthwise and hard press. The width of the waistband should be approx. ¼ 3/8. 7. Right sides together sew pants fronts together along curved crotch edge stopping at dot. Clip seam allowance. Check fold in fly to ensure that it is even with this seam. 8. Right sides together sew pants front to pants back along raw edge of inseam. Clip at crotch and curves and press seam allowance open. 9. Turn pants right side out and fit to doll. Re-adjust fly fold line as needed and mark placement for two snap sets. Secure snap sets into place. Snaps should not be visible from the right side of the pants when they are snapped into place. Shirt 1. Right sides together sew shirt front to shirt back along shoulder raw edge. Press seam allowance open. 2. Right sides together fold collar in half as indicated on pattern and sew along side raw edges. Clip corners and turn collar right side out. Press edges smooth. Stay stitch bottom raw edge of collar. 3. With raw edge of collar sandwiched between both layers of collar riser, center collar using notch marks on collar and riser. Pin all layers together. Using sewing lines on pattern as a guide sew along outside raw edge of riser. Trim seam allowance to 1/8 and turn collar and collar riser assembly right side out. Press edges smooth. Stay stitch bottom raw edge of riser. 4. Right sides together center raw edge of riser to raw edge of shirt neckline, match notches. Ensure that riser meets front fold line in shirt front. Stay stitch riser to neckline using a 1/8 seam allowance. 5. Fold center fold line of shirt as indicated on pattern piece so that right sides are facing each other. This will serve as the shirt front facing. The collar riser will be sandwiched between these two layers. Secure facing and collar to shirt using a ¼ seam allowance. It is important that the edge of the collar riser meet perfectly with the fold line. Clip and trim seam allowance as needed and turn facing and collar assembly right side out. 6. Right sides together sew sleeve back to sleeve front stopping at dot. Press seam allowance open. 7. RST sew sleeve to armhole opening. 8. Sew front to back and sleeve raw edge at the side seam. 9. Fold one long edge of cuff under and press. 10. RST pin cuff to sleeve, leaving an overhang on each side. 11. RST fold cuff in half, sew side raw edges. Clip seams, turn and press. 12. Sleeve raw edge will be sandwiched in cuff. Hand finish opening. 13. Wrong sides together fold bottom raw edge of shirt under approx. ¼ and hard press. Using a machine stitch secure hem into place by top stitching approx. 1/8 from folded edge. 14. Fit shirt to doll. 15. Mark placement for snap sets. Secure snaps into place using waxed thread and needle. Snap sets should not be visible from right side of shirt when snaps are fastened into place.

4 Tie 1. RST sew top tie together all around the edge and point, leaving the thin edge open for turning. 2. Turn and press. 3. Fold tie under along each long side and tack together in the middle. Press. 4. RST sew under tie all around the edges, leaving one thin edge open for turning. 5. Apply a snap set to the back sections. 6. Tie like a regular tie around Peter s neck. Jacket 1. Sew center back seam. 2. Sew back side panels to the back section. 3. Sew the front side panels to the front sections. 4. Stitch back and front sections together at the shoulder seams. 5. Fold collar in half; sew each end, turn and press. 6. Pin the collar to the neck edges, matching the center of the collar to the center of the back section. 7. Sew front sections to the back section at the side seam. 8. Turn the seam allowance up ¼ inch on the lower edge of the sleeve and press. 9. Sew the underarm seam of the sleeve. Turn and press. 10. With right sides together, pin the sleeve to the sleeve opening, matching the dot on the sleeve to the shoulder seam. Sleeve seam goes to the back of jacket. 11. Prepare the lining; sew front facing to the front lining. Continue the rest of the lining as you did the garment. 12. Sew the flap to flap lining, leaving the upper edge open. Turn, press and baste raw edges together. 13. Pin flap to each front section. Trim excess and press the flap down. 14. With right sides together, pin the lining to the jacket. Sew all the way around the edge, leaving an opening in the hem. Clip raw edge, turn, and press. Hand finish hem at the opening and sew sleeve lining to sleeve at the cuff. 15. Sew on buttons and snaps if desired.

5 Piece Jacket Back Fabric Lining Piece Jacket Facing Fabric Piece Jacket Side Back Fabric Lining Piece Jacket Side Front Piece Jacket Front Fabric 2010, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

6 Piece Jacket Facing Lining Super Hero Piece Suit Coat Sleeve Fabric Lining Piece Jacket Collar Cut 1 Fabric fold line Style: Genteman s Suit Piece: Waistband Cut 1 Size: 17 Super Hero 2010, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

7 Piece Tie Piece Shirt Collar Cut 1 Piece Shirt Front Piece Back Sleeve

8 Piece Front Sleeve Piece Shirt Back Cut 1 on Fold Fold Here Fold Line Stitch Line Grain Line Notch Dot Snap Seam allowance of 1/4 is already included in the dimensions of the pattern Piece Pocket Flap Fabric Lining Piece Collar Riser Piece Cuff 2010, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

9 Style: Gentleman s Suit Piece: Pants Front Size: 17 Super Hero Style: Gentleman s Suit Piece: Pants Back Size: 17 Super Hero 2010, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.