Oregon City High School TEXTILES Sample Notebook: Level 1 Instructed by Jayne Vetter

Transcription

1 Oregon City High School TEXTILES Sample Notebook: Level Instructed by Jayne Vetter r National FACS STANDARDS for: Textiles, Fashion & Apparel

2 6.. Demonstrate professional skills in using a variety of equipment, tools, and supplies for fashion, apparel, and textile construction, alteration, and repair. 6.. Use appropriate industry products and materials for cleaning, pressing, and finishing textile, apparel, and fashion products Demonstrate basic skills for producing and altering textile products and apparel. SAMPLE TECHNIQUE NAME Date Due: = does not meet, = nearly meets, = meets, = exceeds TE XT ILE : Sa mpl e Tec hni que Self - Ass ess me nt All sam ples will be dem onst rate d by the teac her or Cut () Interface Mark () Seam () Trim Finish Press Casing Elastic Staystitch Machine Hem Grade Clip Notch an advanced student. Examples of each sample are available for viewing. Repeat demonstrations and additional assistance are available during after school open lab. Name Period Baste Gather

3 Dart Pleat After reading each target and constructing the sample, circle the number where you feel your current level of proficiency fits onto the scale. A Jayne Vetter Creation - 05 Name Date Period

4 Cut/Interface/Mark CUTTING: Use bent-handle shears. Cut with long, even strokes through center of single cutting line. Cut all notches outward. Cut double and triple notches together with a continuous edge across top as indicated by printed line.

5 Directions:. View Demonstration & Example. Review rubric. Complete sample Cut/Interface/Mark RUBRIC * depth of knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds SAMPLE TECHNIQUE Cutting Fabric & Interfacing Apply Fusible Interfacing Mark Pattern Symbols s incorrectly Notch/es missing and/or cut into seam allowance. Iron fusible interfacing to right side of fabric Markings show on right side of fabric. with some Slight inaccuracies in cutting; crooked, jagged, etc. with some Partially ironed fusible interfacing to wrong side of fabric. with some Markings inaccurate and/or difficult to see on the wrong side of the fabric. Applied most concepts correctly Cutting layout mostly on grain or fold, pinned pattern securely to fabric and within cut edge. Cut along cutting line. Cut notches by snipping across form point to point, away from seam allowance. Layer fabric wrong side up, interfacing glue side down and finish with a press cloth over the interfacing. Press with and up down motion to prevent interfacing from sliding off All markings (circles, dots, darts, pleats, and any other lines indicated) in a color that contrasts, but not drastically. Mark on wrong side of fabric. Use X s to indicate pattern dots. s correctly Cutting layout follows grain or fold, pinned pattern securely to wrinkle free fabric and within cut edge. Cut smoothly along cutting line. Cut notches by snipping straight across form point to point, away from seam allowance. s correctly. Layer fabric wrong side up, interfacing glue side down and finish with a press cloth over the interfacing. Press with and up down motion to prevent interfacing from sliding off s correctly. All markings (circles, dots, darts, pleats, and any other lines indicated) in a color that contrasts, but not drastically. Mark on wrong side of fabric. Use X s to indicate pattern dots.. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. A Jayne Vetter Creation 05 Construction markings need to be transferred to the WRONG side of fabric so markings will be visible for placement and sewing. Choose an appropriate marking tool for the color and type of fabric you will be using. Interfacing is a common term for a variety of materials used on the unseen back side or "wrong" side of fabrics in sewing. Interfacings can be used to stiffen or add body tofabric, such as the interfacing

6 used in shirt collars; to strengthen a certain area of the fabric, for instance where buttonholes will be sewn; or to keep fabrics, particularly knit fabrics, from stretching out of shape. Interfacings come in a variety of weights and stiffness to suit different purposes. Most modern interfacings are fusible, made to be ironed. Name Date Period

7 Overedge Finished Seam (A) SEAM: A seam is created when two or more pieces of fabric are sewn, usually, right sides together. The seam allowance is the space between the stitched seam and the raw edge of the fabric. Many commercial pattern companies have agreed upon a standard 5/8" seam allowance, however it does vary with printed patterns - make sure you check first before beginning a project! (B) TRIM: Cut away both layers of half the width of the seam allowance. Do this to reduce the width of the seam allowance and prepare the raw edge to be finished. (C) OVEREGE FINISH: Used to strengthen the seam and keep it from fraying. To create a mock serged seam choose a zigzag stitch and sew over the raw edge by placing the trimmed edge in front of the needle. iron. PRESS: Iron finished seam allowance to one side. Make sure iron setting is appropriate for fiber content. Using an iron in a press/pick up/move/press/... pattern. Pressing is not moving back and forth on fabric with the Pressing is done "as you go" while creating a garment. A B C

8 Directions:. View Demonstration & Example. Review rubric. Complete sample. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper.

9 Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds SAMPLE TECHNIQUE Seam Trim Machine tension & threading incorrect. Not right sides together. Seam allowance not 5/8. Didn t Backstitch. Threads not clipped. Not between ¼ /8 with some Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Seam allowance uneven by more than /8 in many locations. Backstitched only one end of seam. Some threads not clipped with some Unevenly cut. Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Pins perpendicular to seamline with tips just beyond seamline and heads toward seam edge with right sides together. Seam allowance 5/8, stitching is close to 5/8 from the seam edge the entire length of the seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end for reinforcement. Threads clipped. Cut both sides of entire seam allowance at once to about half (/ /8 ) its width. Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Pins perpendicular to seamline with tips just beyond seamline and heads toward seam edge with right sides together. Seam allowance 5/8, stitching is close to 5/8 from the seam edge the entire length of the seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end for reinforcement. Threads clipped. Cut both sides of entire seam allowance at once to about half (/ /8 ) its width. Overedge Finish (mock serge) Press Machine tension & threading incorrect. Zigzag stitch crosses over seamline and/or misses trimmed edge. with some Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Zigzag stitch not centered over trimmed edge. Didn t clip threads. with some Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Use the combination straight and zigzag stitch, #05. Line up the trimmed edge under the middle of the presser foot. The zigzag stitch goes over the trimmed edge. Clip threads. Press seam to one side. Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Use the combination straight and zigzag stitch, #05. Line up the trimmed edge under the middle of the presser foot. The zigzag stitch goes over the trimmed edge. Clip threads. Press seam to one side. A Jayne Vetter Creation - 05

10 Name Date Period Waistline Casing A casing is a fabric tunnel made to enclose a drawstring or elastic, typically used around the waistline. When the elastic or drawstring is drawn in, the effect is similar to that of a conventional waistline joining or waistband, but far easier to construct. Waistline casings are practical because they can be adjusted easily to changes in waist measurement. Replacement of drawstring or elastic is equally simple. All casings should be ¼ wider than the elastic or drawstring they are to enclose, to allow for its free movement through the fabric tunnel. A fold-down casing is formed by turning a portion of the fabric at the garment edge to the inside and stitching in place. This type of casing is ideal for pull-on pants and skirts, especially those made of knit fabrics. & press. will Begin with strip of fabric, sew short ends into a circle by sewing an overedge seam (A) To make the casing, turn raw edge to wrong side ¼, pin & press. Turn again to wrong side ¼ wider than the width of elastic and/or drawstring, pin & press. (B) Machine stitch lower edge of casing in place. Leave a opening at center back seam for threading elastic or drawstring, backstitch to secure size of opening. (C) Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic, secure other end to garment so it not be pulled through the casing as the pin is worked around the waistline. Take care not to twist the elastic. (D) To join ends of elastic, first overlap them ½ and pin. Stitch several rows on the overlapped area, for strength. Pull joined ends inside casing. Close the opening by edgestitching. Keep area flat by stretching the elastic slightly as you sew. Take care not to catch the elastic in the stitching.

11 Directions:. View Demonstration & Example. Review rubric. Complete sample. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. Waistline Casing RUBRIC knowledge in italic Turned to SAMPLE right side. Stitching not secure. See Sample Elastic from last week twisted. * depth of Insert elastic with a safety pin. Overlap ends ½ (as See Sample from demonstrate last week d), make sure elastic is not twisted. correctly. Measure Stitch elastic ¼, turn securely. & pin Pull raw joined edge ends to the inside wrong casing. side, press. Applied concept Turn & correctly. pin casing Close to by the wrong edge-sidstitching (/ wider than neatly, width an of elastic even or /8 drawstring) from folded and edge press. of Stitch opening. evenly, Neatly lower Backstitch edge of Clip casing, threads. close to fold Leave a small ( ) opening at center back seam. backstitch. Clip threads. Does Not Meet Nearly Overlapped Meets Meets Insert elastic Exceeds ends more than with a safety TECHNIQUE Over-edge Seam Elastic Casing Opening Machine incorrectly threaded. Turned to right side. Applied concept Raw edge not turned under. Measurements Machine off incorrectly more than ¼ threaded. too wide or too Opening small. not Stitching closed, broken, closed not secure incorrectly, more than sloppy. ¼ away from folded edge. Didn t backstitch and/or clip threads. with some ½. with some Edge stitching See Sample crooked, from last didn t week backstitch. with some Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Measurements and/or with some stitching Inappropriate uneven. tension Holes and/or stitch tucks. length. Opening Didn t sloppy, sewed backstitch over elastic. and/or clip Didn t threads. clip threads. Applied most concepts correctly. pin. Applied most concepts Overlap ends ½ correctly. (as See Sample demonstrated), from last week make sure Applied most elastic concepts is not correctly. twisted. Stitch Measure elastic ¼, securely. turn & pin Pull joined raw edge ends to inside the wrong casing. Applied most side. concepts correctly. Turn & pin Close casing by to edgestitching wrong side /8 the from (/ folded edge wider of than opening. width of Backstitch. elastic or Clip drawstring). threads. Stitch lower edge of casing, close to fold Leave a small ( ) opening at center back seam. backstitch. Clip threads. A Jayne Vetter Creati on - 05

12 Name Date Period Staystitching What is stay-stitching? Stay-stitching is a line of straight stitching that prevents curved or bias edges, such as necklines, shoulders and waistlines, from stretching out of shape as they are handled during sewing and pressing. Where should I do it? Stay-stitch /8 inside of the seam allowance, between the seam line and the cut edge. On a standard 5/8 seam allowance, this distance is ½ from the cut edge. Do I have to remove the stay-stitching after I sew the seam? No. Stay-stitching remains in the garment as a permanent aid to prevent stretching and buckling. Because it is in the seam allowance between the seam line and the cut edge, it will be invisible on the finished garment. Directions:. View Demonstration & Example. Review rubric. Complete sample. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. Staystitch RUBRIC SAMPLE TECHNIQUE knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds * depth of Cutting s inaccurately. Notch/es missing and/or cut into seam allowance. with some Slight inaccuracies in cutting; crooked, jagged, etc. Forgot to mark notches. Applied most concepts correctly. Cutting layout follows grain or fold Pin pattern securely to wrinkle free fabric and within cut edge. Cut along cutting line. Cut notches by snipping straight across from point to point, away from seam Cutting layout follows grain or fold Pin pattern securely to wrinkle free fabric and within cut edge. Cut along cutting line. Cut notches by snipping straight across from point to point, away from seam allowance.

13 Staystitch Machine incorrectly threaded. Used a double layer of fabric. Stitched outward curve. Seam allowance greater than ½ with some Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Used an uneven /8-5/8 seam allowance on the raw edge of the inward curve of a single layer of fabric. Applied most concepts correctly. Completed construction on the inward curved raw edge of a single layer of fabric. Use a regular stitch length at ½ seam allowance, stitch with the grain. Clip threads. Completed construction on the inward curved raw edge of a single layer of fabric. Use a regular stitch length at ½ seam allowance, stitch with the grain. Clip threads. A Jayne Vetter Creation - 05 Name Date Period Narrow Curved Machine Hem Sewing a hem by machine The major assets of machine hems are speed and extra sturdiness. They can also provide a decorative touch, and are especially appropriate if topstitching is part of the design. Machine stitches are more casual on a hem than hand stitches, so careful consideration should be given to their suitability for the garment. 5/8 /8

14 / Directions:. View Demonstration & Example. Review rubric. Complete sample. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. Narrow Curved Machine Hem RUBRIC SAMPLE TECHNIQUE Pinning knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds s inaccurately. Not turned under twice. On inward curve. with some Folded edge wider than /8. Tucks, does not lie flat. Parts not turned twice. Applied most concepts correctly. Mark ¼ from raw edge of hem on wrong side of fabric. Fold under along markings to the wrong side, fold under again /8 (5/8 total). Pin at right angles. Press. * depth of Mark ¼ from raw edge of hem on wrong side of fabric. Fold under along markings to the wrong side, fold under again /8 (5/8 total). Pin at right angles. Press.

15 Stitching Machine incorrectly threaded. Raw edge shows. Stitching not at inner fold. Stitching crooked. Many tucks. with some Tucks. Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Stitching not close to inner fold. Applied most concepts correctly. With and average stitch length and correct tension stitch close to the inner folded edge. Press correctly. With and average stitch length and correct tension stitch close to the inner folded edge. Press A Jayne Vetter Creation 05

16 Name Date Period Grading/Clipping/Notching Clipping and Notching is used on curved seams to allow them to lie smooth. Clips are slits cut into the seam allowance of concave, or inward, curves that permit the edges to spread. (With either technique, hold scissor points just short of seamline to avoid cutting past stitching.) Notches are wedges cut from seam allowance of convex, or outward, curves; space opened by removal of fabric lets edge draw in. Grading is used to reduce bulk, when the seam allowance is going to be sandwiched between two layer of fabric. The seam allowance that lies closest to the body is trimmed shorter. Directions:. View Demonstration & Example. Review rubric. Complete sample. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. Grade/Clip/Notch RUBRIC ing SAMPLE TECHNIQUE * depth of knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets s inaccurately. Notch/es missing and/or cut with some Slight inaccuracies in cutting; Cutting layout follows grain, pinned pattern securely to wrinkle free fabric and within cut edge. Exceeds Cutting layout follows grain, pinned pattern securely to wrinkle free fabric and within cut

17 Seam Machine tension & threading incorrect. Not right sides together. Seam allowance not 5/8. Didn t Backstitch. Threads not clipped with some Inappropriat e tension and/or stitch length. Seam allowance uneven by more than /8 in many locations. Backstitched only one end of seam. Some threads not clipped Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Pins perpendicular to seamline with tips just beyond seamline and heads toward seam edge with right sides together. Seam allowance 5/8, stitching is close to 5/8 from the seam edge the entire length of the seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end for reinforcement. Threads clipped. Machine correctly threaded, so stitch length & tension appropriate. Pins perpendicular to seamline with tips just beyond seamline and heads toward seam edge with right sides together. Seam allowance 5/8, stitching is close to 5/8 from the seam edge the entire length of the seam. Backstitch at the beginning and end for reinforcement. Threads clipped. Grade incorrectly (trimmed) or didn t apply. with some Unevenly cut, cut part of other layer and/or cut too close to seam allowance. Applied most concepts correctly. GRADE (also called Layer), cut heavier layer of seam or facing layer of seam allowance an even /. GRADE (also called Layer), cut heavier layer of seam or facing layer of seam allowance an even /. Slits cut from seam allowance of the concave or inward curve. Wedges cut from seam allowance of convex or outward curve. Clip incorrectly (notched) or didn t apply. with some Didn t clip through both layers of seam allowance. Clipped stitching line or didn t clip close enough to stitching. Applied most concepts correctly. Slits cut from seam allowance of the concave or inward curve. Applied most concepts correctly. Wedges cut from seam allowance of convex or outward curve. Notch incorrectly (clipped) or didn t apply. with some Didn t notch both layers of seam allowance. Notches cut stitching line or didn t cut notches close enough to stitching. A Jayne Vetter Creation - 05

18 Name Date Period Basting & Gathering Basting Machine basting is a long straight stitch used to hold fabric layers together during fitting or permanent machine stitching. General gathering information Gathering is the process of drawing a given amount of fabric into a predetermined, smaller area, along one or several stitching lines, to create soft, even folds. Fabric is usually gathered to one half or one-third the original width; the effect may be soft and drapey or crisp and billowy, depending on the fabric. Gathering most often occurs in a garment at waistline, cuffs, or yoke, or as ruffles. edge Baste / from raw edge Baste / from raw

19 Pull to Ruffle (gather) Directions:. View Demonstration & Example. Review rubric. Complete sample. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. Baste/Gather RUBRIC knowledge in italic SAMPLE TECHNIQUE Baste Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds Machine incorrectly threaded. with some Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Incorrect or uneven seam allowances. Backstitched and/or cut threads. Applied most concepts correctly. Two even rows of basting, spaced ¼ apart. The first row beginning ½ from raw edge of fabric. Don t backstitch, leave threads for pulling. * depth of Two even rows of basting, spaced ¼ apart. The first row beginning ½ from raw edge of fabric. Don t backstitch, leave threads for pulling.

20 Gather Threads not pulled or broke while pulling. with some Threads not pulled simultaneously and/or not to ½ the original width. Applied most concepts correctly. Threads from each row of one side of fabric, pulled simultaneously to gather evenly to ½ the original width. Threads from each row of one side of fabric, pulled simultaneousl y to distribute small gather evenly to ½ the original width. A Jayne Vetter Creation - 05 Name Date Period Darts & Pleats Darts are an essential part of garment construction because they allow flat fabric to take on a shape that will fit the body well. A dart is a folded wedge of fabric that is tapered and stitched down to give shape to a garment. There are two main components of a dart: the point, also known as the apex, and the legs, which start at the widest part of the dart. The dart legs are the two lines that are brought together to create the fold of fabric that is stitched. Darts need to be sewn in the correct direction, from the widest point of the legs to the apex, to ensure they lay flat and press well. Darts are found primarily in women s clothing and are meant to fit the contours of the body in a flattering way. They serve a functional purpose first and foremost, but darts can also create style lines in a garment to accentuate and enhance a design. Pleats are fold in fabric that are either inverted or folded outward, is not sewn except on the top edge (as in a skirt or slacks waistband), and provides decorative or functional fullness.

21 Directions:. View Demonstration & Example. Review rubric. Complete sample Dart/Pleat RUBRIC SAMPLE TECHNIQUE Cutting Mark Pattern Symbols. Highlight concepts you completed in rubric 5. Staple sample to front of this paper. * depth of knowledge in italic Does Not Meet Nearly Meets Meets Exceeds s inaccurately. Notch/es missing and/or cut into seam allowanc e. Markings show on right side of fabric. with some Slight inaccuracies in cutting; crooked, jagged, etc. Forgot to mark notches. with some Markings inaccurate and/or difficult to see on the wrong side of the fabric. Cutting layout follows grain or fold, pinned pattern securely to wrinkle free fabric and within cut edge. Cut along cutting line. Cut notches by snipping straight across form point to point, away from seam allowance. All markings (circles, dots, darts, pleats, and any other lines indicated) in a color that contrasts, but not drastically. Mark on wrong side of fabric. Use X s to indicate pattern dots. Cutting layout follows grain or fold, pinned pattern securely to wrinkle free fabric and within cut edge. Cut along cutting line. Cut notches by snipping straight across form point to point, away from seam allowance. All markings (circles, dots, darts, pleats, and any other lines indicated) in a color that contrasts, but not drastically. Mark on wrong side of fabric. Use X s to indicate pattern dots.

22 Baste Press Pleat Dart Machine incorrectly threaded. No point, incomplet e point. Machine incorrectly threaded. Machine incorrectly threaded. with some Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Dart stitching crooked, dart length uneven, backstitched at point. with some Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Pleat size and/or type inaccurate. with some Pleats and/or dart pressed wrong direction with some Inappropriate tension and/or stitch length. Incorrect or uneven seam allowances. Sew dart right sides together, with an average stitch length & correct tension. Taper gradually to a point. At point hand knot threads, cut threads. Accurately mark pleats. Crease fabric along the solid line, press lightly and remove the pin. Bring the pressed edge to meet the broken line and pin the box or inverted pleat in place. Press dart & pleats toward center back. Press to produce a crisp pleat. Baste an even ½ from raw edge of fabric top over dart & pleats.. A Jayne Vetter Creation 05 Garments with Darts & Pleats! Can you find them? (Circle or Highlight) Sew dart right sides together, with an average stitch length & correct tension. Taper gradually to a point. At point hand knot threads, cut threads. Accurately mark pleats. Crease fabric along the solid line, press lightly and remove the pin. Bring the pressed edge to meet the broken line and pin the box or inverted pleat in place. Press dart & pleats toward center back. Press to produce a crisp pleat. Baste an even ½ from raw edge of fabric top over dart & pleats.

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