Figuring the amount of fabric needed: 0 Measure the window and record each measurement A. Width inside frame B. Length inside frame C. Width outside f

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1 _ MAKING DOM-AN smut-s : 1 y,_ H z i. I i 1 ~ :... L illiqlgiilliillql' 'iiliilliill'idnz The Roman shade is a popular, versatile window treat ment. Its tailored appearance blends with many decorating styles. It can be simple and casual or dressed up with a decorative hem for a sophisticated, elegant look. Roman shades are hung alone or combined with a cornice, valance, draperies or shutters. The shade works well where a View is desired during the day and privacy is preferred at night. It can be rolled to any place on the window to control the light or let in a View. The basic Roman shade folds into horizontal pleats when raised. Rings and cords attached to the back of the shade give it an accordian effect. A basic Roman shade is economical to make since it requires only a flat width of fabric and fits within the window frame. Any firmly woven fabric can be used. Medium to heavy weight drapery fabrics are the best choice. A lining will give the shade more body, make well-defined soft pleats, give a better appearance from the outside and improve insulating qualities. You may choose a regular polyester blend lining fabric or one of the suede like linings which offer more insulation. To make a Roman shade, you will need: 0 Shade fabric medium weight, firmly woven 0 Lining fabric polyester blend, insulating or room-darkening 0 Thread to match shade fabric 0 Nylon cord to operate shade 0 Roman shade tape twill tape with rings already sewn on it or individual rings and twill tape 0 Mounting board 1 X 2, cut 1/4 inch less than the finished width of the shade. It may be painted or stained to match the window frame or covered with lining fabric. 0 Angle irons proper size to support board, usually 11/2 unless the window is very wide 0 Screw eyes one for each row of tape 0 Small awning cleat to secure cording 0 Brass or metal rod 5/8 inch rod cut 1 inch less than the width of the shade to weight hem 0 Staple gun, staples, flat head tacks to fasten shade to board Worksheet 1: Decorative Fabric Needed, Figure the Width for shade Finished width of the shade Add side hems (usually 1 side hem and 1/2 seam allowance for each side, or 5 ) 3. Total Cut width needed (line Number of widths of fabric needed 4. line 2) Width of fabric being purchased for shade (line 5 + line 4; round to next whole number.) widths Figure total or cut length for shade 6. Finished length of shade 7. Hem (add 5 for double 2 1/2 hem) 8. Add heading for mounting on board (usually 2 ) 9. Add 1 for raveling and squaring +_5 + 2 the ends Total cut length of shade (Add lines 6, 7, 8 and 9) _ If fabric has a pattern repeat, include steps If not, skip to Measure the length of one design repeat 12. To determine the number of repeats in a cut length, divide the cut length by the length of the repeat (line 10 + line 11; round off fractions to the next higher number repeats 13. Adjust length allowing for pattern (line 11 X line 12) 14. For total fabric needed, multiply length by number of widths needed (line 13 X line 5 for patterned fabric; line 10 X line 5 for unpatterned fabric) 15. Divide fabric needed by 36 to determine yards needed (line ) yards

2 Figuring the amount of fabric needed: 0 Measure the window and record each measurement A. Width inside frame B. Length inside frame C. Width outside frame D. Length outside frame The finished width of the shade is the actual width you want the shade to be from one side to the other. The finished length of the shade is the actual length you 4 ",/ B want the shade to be, top to bottom. A A L J Figure 1 Worksheet II: Lining Fabric Needed Figure total Width of lining Figure total length of lining 1. Total cut width needed for shade 6. Total cut length of decorative fabric (see line 5 on Worksheet 1) (line 10 on Worksheet 1) 2. Subtract 4 from line 1 _4 7. Lining will be S shorter than 3. Total cut width of lining fabric (line decorative fabric (subtract 5 ) 1 + line 2) 8. Total cut length of lining (line 6 _ 5 4. Width of fabric being purchased _ line 7) * 5. Number of widths of fabric needed 9. Total fabric needed. Multiply length divide cut width by width of lin- by the number of widths needed ing fabric (line 3 + line 4) (line 8 X line 5) _ *Seams in lining must be at the same place as seams in 10. Divide fabric needed by 36 to the decorative fabric to minimize shadows when light determine yards needed (line 9 + shines through the shade. Purchase lining fabric that is the same width as the decorative fabric, if possible. 36 ) yards Worksheet III: Ring Tape Figure number of rows of rings needed 1. Total finished width of shade minus 1 7. Number of spaces between rows (Divide line 1 by 8 to 12. A space is usually no less than 8 nor more than 12. Width of the space is determined by fabric weight and overall effect.). Number of in each space (line 1 + line 2) Total number of rows of ring tape. Number of spaces (line 2) plus 1.. Length of ring tape needed per row. Add 4 1/2 to finished length of shade. spaces and Cording Needed 6. Total length of ring tape needed. Multiply length of ring tape needed by number of rows (line 5 X line 4). Yards needed. Divide total needed by 56 (line ). Add 1/2 yard for shrinkage. Roman shade cord 8. Multiply finished length of shade times Add finished width. Cording per row (line 8 + line 9) Total length of cord (line 9 X line 4) Yards needed. Divide total needed by 36 (line ) yards

3 Cutting and preparing fabric 1. Check to be sure fabric is on grain or square. It is best to square fabric for shades, especially if they are to be mounted inside the window frame. Otherwise, the shade may not raise and lower smoothly. Clip or trim off selvages. 2. Cut fabric and lining according to measurements determined on your worksheets. Join widths, if necessary, in decorative fabric and the lining us ing 1/2 seam allowances. Press seams open. Remember to match the seams on the lining and the decorative fabric. 3. Place right sides of lining and decorative fabric together, matching top edges and one side. Stitch right side edge with a 1/2 seam sewing from top to bottom. Figure 4 1!! edge fold shade fabric seam Figure 2 W\ /%I 6. Turn up 5 from the bottom to form bottom of double hem and press. Turn under 2 1/2 of the 5 hem so that a double 2 1/2 hem is formed. Press along top edge of hem. Stitch along top of hem. Back stitch at each end. Figure 5 a WW\\\\\\\\\\\\\ ~ 4. Match the left (remaining) side and stitch with a 1/2 seam. Remember, the shade fabric is wider than the lining. Press seams open. ' double hem a Figure 3 I 7. Measuring from the bottom of the hem, mark the finished length at the top of the shade. Fold along that line (lining sides together) and press. Figure 6 I I I I crease line 3% 5. Turn right side out and lay flat. Smooth so that side seams are an equal distance from the folded edge (about 1 ) and press. finished length /////// \ 7;/a

4 Attaching Ring Tapes Tape placement is the most important step in making a Roman shade. Rows of tape should be 8 to 12 apart. Rings on all rows must be even and in line, both vertically and horizontally, if the shade is to operate properly. 8. With lining side up, mark vertical rows for tapes. The center of the rows on each side is 1 from side edge. Other vertical rows should be no less than 8 and no more than 12 apart. (If seams were made joining more than one fabric width, these seams should have a row of ring tape centered on them. Adjust tape rows so that all rows are the same distance apart.) Figure 7 first row / f/////\ //// \ crease line 9. Use tailor s chalk and a yardstick to mark vertical lines for ring tape. Start your lines at the top crease line and extend them to the hem of the shade. 10. To keep the decorative fabric and the lining in place, baste along the chalk line. 11. Center tapes over these marked lines. Extend ring tape 2 1/2 beyond the bottom of shade with the first ring at the top edge of the hem. The space between the last ring and the top crease line should be more than half the distance between rings or about Beginning at the top of the shade, pin the ring tape to the lining and decorative fabric. Place pins perpendicular to the tape on both sides of rings to keep them secure. Place pins 1 to 1 1/2 apart to keep the tape and the two layers of the shade from slipping. Note: Ring tape tends to stretch when you work with it even after preshrinking. Handle it carefully and be sure to re-check the horizontal alignment of the rings as you work. 13. Match bobbin thread to the decorative fabric and the needle thread to the lining fabric. Check machine tension and sew using a long stitch to reduce the stretching and puckering of the tape; Use a zipper foot or a roller presser foot to sew 'the ring tape to the shade. If you do not have a roller presser foot, use double-stick sewing tape or basting glue to secure ring tape during sewing. (When using double stick sewing tape, place it away from the stitching line. When using basting glue, allow basting glue to dry before sewing.) Stitch from top to bottom along both edges of the ring tape. 14. Turn under 1/4 of the ring tape at the bottom. Then turn under another 1 so that a loop is formed. Stitch along the top edge to secure the loop, attaching only the ring tape. Figure 9 lining Figure 8 0 O 15. Cut a strip of lining fabric 2 wide and 1 longer than the metal rod. Fold the fabric lengthwise with right sides together. Stitch a 5/8 seam across one end and along the length of the fabric. Turn right side out and insert the rod. Close the open end with hand stitching. //// /////// Y b ; VAC W//}////// Figure 10

5 16. Slip the covered rod through the loops in the ring tape. Secure it by hand, tacking the underside of the loop to the fabric covering the rod. Figure 11 Mounting the shade 17. Measure the shade from the top crease line to the top edge of the fabric. If the shade extends more than 2 beyond the crease line, square and trim this edge so that there is just 1 3/4 above the crease line. Zigzag the raw edges with wide stitches catching the ends of the tape. Remove all rings from the top of the shade to 3 below the crease line. Figure 12 _ overcast cut off extra rings I._I O O O 0 position tape 1/2 in from each edge If any portion of the mounting board will be visible, cover it with lining fabric before attaching the shade. Fasten fabric with a heavy duty stapler or flat head tacks. M x. 19. Outside mounted shades that are hung without a valance are more attractive if the ends of the moun ting board are covered with small fabric flaps. These end flaps hide the screw eyes and cords from View when the shade is seen from the side. If you plan to mount your shade inside the window frame, skip to step 25. mounting board Figure Cut 2 pieces of decorative fabric the depth of the end of the mounting board (2 ) plus 3. Cut the length of the end flaps 6 to 8. Cut 2 pieces of lining fabric the same size. 21. Pin the decorative fabric and lining fabrics with right sides together. Stitch the bottom and both sides of the flaps with a 1/2 seam. Trim, turn and press. 22. Staple the flaps to the ends and along a portion of the front of the mounting board. Figure 15 end flap mounting board 25. Fold the shade over the mounting board so that the top crease line is on the top front edge of the board. Attach the shade to the board with 2 rows of staples or flat head tacks. Place both rows of staples or tacks on the top of the board, one row along the front edge and the second row toward the back edge. Figure 16 staples right side of shade top of mounting board To allow for easy removal of the shade for dry cleaning, use snap tape or hook and loop fasteners such as Velcro instead of staples or tacks. If one of these products is used, attached one side of the snap tape or the hook strip to the mounting board and stitch the other side of the snap tape or the plush strip to the shade. 24. Turn shade and board over so that lining side is up. Draw a line along the lengthwise center of the board. Mark on this line above the center of each tape. Insert a screw eye on each of these marks. The eye should face the short ends of the board. Be sure the screw eyes are large enough to hold all the cords. Figure 17 _@ <9 _@_y end flap Shade :5: / W a

6 I I 25. Cut each cord. Each should be 11/2 times the finished length of the shade, plus the finished width. Measure and cut each cord separately. Rigging the shade 26. To rig the shade, start on the side opposite from where you want the pull cord to be. Usually, the cord is on the left side when the lining side is facing you. Tie one end of the cord to the bottom ring. Thread the cord through all rings, passing it from right to left through the screw eye on the moun ting board. Let the end of the cord hang down on the left side of the shade. Repeat this procedure for each row of rings, always threading the cord right to left through all screw eyes to the left of the row on which you re working. When finished, all cords should be on the left side of the shade. Dot cord knots on bottom rings with white glue to secure them. Allow to dry. Figure pass cords through screw eyes to the left (- :1 /.. Tie each cord to 1 a bottom ring Figure 19 Figure 20 If the shade is over 48 wide, use a third angle iron for support in the center. For wider shades, use an extra angle iron every 26 to 30. Hang an insidemounted shade by screwing the mounting board directly to the header above the window. A Roman shade may be hung on a plain rod. In this case, the screw eyes are attached directly to the window frame as they would be on a mounting board. /%/ rod casing for rod _"J_ L -" _ - _'-"_". 4_-._.. -._-L_ :I R! I I J-.._.._......]. M 4' \,( Training the shade Fabric Roman shades often need to be trained to help them hang in straight horizontal folds. 27. Lay the shade on a flat surface. Pull the cords to draw the shade up to the mounting board. Secure the cords tightly. Use your fingers to straighten and lightly crease each horizontal fold. When all folds are straightened, tie strips of cloth across the shade every 6 to 9. Leave the shade tied for 5 or 4 days before hanging. Hanging the shade 28. Use angle irons to attach the mounting board. For an outside mounted shade, attached the angle irons to the wall or ceiling above the opening. Angle irons should be spaced according to the width and the weight of the shade. For shades less than 48 wide, set the angle irons 1 to 2 from the side edges. 29. After hanging the shade, lower it all the way down and adjust the cords. Pull the cords until the tension is even and the shade pulls into even horizon tal folds. When you are satisfied with the tension, lower the shade and knot the cords all together just below the end screw eye. If desired, braid the cords and tie a second knot 12 to 18 below the mounting board. Trim the cords just below the knot. Dot the knot with white glue to secure and allow to dry.. Attach a cup hook or awning cleat to the window frame to secure the cords and hold the shade in the desired position.

7 Double Tucked Roman Shade The double tucked Roman shade offers a crisp, tailored appearance. Each fold has stitched horizontal tucks that remain in place when the shade is opened and form sharp pleats when the shade is closed. Figure 21 double tucked shade Worksheet IV: Amount of Fabric Needed Figuring the amount of fabric needed: 1. To make a double tucked Roman shade, use Worksheets I and 11 found on pages 1 and 2 of this publication. The tucks take extra fabric, so fill in steps A through E below: A. Finished shade length B. Tucks are usually 2 1/2 to 4 apart. Divide line A by 2 1/2 to 4 C. Tucks will be stitched 1/4 inch from the fold edge. Multiply the figure on line B by 1/2 to get the length needed for tucks D. Total cut length for the Roman shade (line 10 from Worksheet I plus 5 plus 3 for the rod pocket) E. For the total cut length add the figures on lines C and D together ; r"/r- k.. 2. Turn to Cutting and Preparing Fabric on page 3 3. and follow steps 1 through 5. Turn up 8 of the bottom edge and press. Unfold and turn up 4 and press. You now have a 4 double hem in the shade. 4. To make a pocket to hold the metal weight rod, un fold the hem. Then stitch a line 1 1/2 up from the second fold. Backstitch at each end for stability. Figure Fold hem along the first fold. Stitch across the width of the shade 1/4 down from the top fold. Figure 23 - stitch 1 1/2 from second fold _... _ _ _. Making tucks 6. With decorative fabric side up, measure and mark folds. Measure 3 up from hem. Place a row of pins across the width of the shade. Measure 6 up from the first row (for 5 tucks) and make another row of pins. Repeat every 6 until you are 3 to 4 from the top crease.

8 Figure24 13/4 -I overcast \ crease line..-u. 6!! h 4H H-a -u- =-n~ 6H- -n- 4H -u-a 4H 4» = u4 6. 4H 4H -n.. 41-: 4H =-m 6!!- -lh -l)-v 4k -()- -H- :-n~ 6n- 4H 4H 4:. -l-h -u~ 3H1 F m -tl-' u-c 4H -n-v -u~ (I hem 7. Turn the shade so that the lining side is up. Make a fold (lining sides together) along the bottom row of pins. Be sure this fold line and all the other ones are straight and perpendicular to he side edges. Remove pins and press the fold with an iron. Figure 27 align first crease with second crease press ' 10. When all folds are pressed, stitch 1/4 from the edge of each to form the tucks. Use thread to match the decorative fabric in both the top'spool and bobbin when stitching front tucks. Use thread to match the lining fabric in both the top spool and bobbin when stitching the back tucks. Figure 28, stitch 1/4 from back folds crease line \ \/ Figure 25 first row of pins remove and press 8. Make the second fold with lining sides together along the next row of pins. Remove the pins and press the fold. Figure 26 first crease / I 9. Now align the two folded edges together so that they form a back fold. Press the back fold. Pleat the rest of the shade the same way. stitch 1/4 from I/ front folds Attaching Rings Rings can be attached directly to the tucks; ring tape is not needed. Place the first row of rings 1 from the side seam joining the decorative fabric and the lining. Remaining rows will be 8 to 12 apart. 11. Follow steps 8 and 9 on page 4. Remember, rings will be sewn directly to the shade rather than using ring tape. 12. Using thread to match the lining, sew bottom rings slightly above the stitching at the top of the rod pocket. 13. Sew all other rings through the tucks where marked vertical lines cross the back folds. Set the zigzag stitch at its widest setting with the stitch setting with stitch length at zero. Place fold under the presser foot with the ring next to the fold. Attach several rings without breaking the threads in between, then clip the threads without undoing any stitches. 14. Insert metal rod into pocket in hem. 15. To mount, rig and install the shade, follow steps 17 through 30, pages 5 through 6.

9 The Hobbled Shade The hobbled shade differs from the basic Roman shade in that extra fabric between the rings create soft pleats that show even when the shade is down. The hobbl ed shade takes twill tape and individual rings rather than Roman shade tape. Figure 30 right side of shade Figure 29 rod pocket 2, o o T m o _ - 6 1/4 hobbled shade 1. To determine the amount of fabric needed, fill in Worksheets I and II on pages 1 and 2. Since the soft pleats require extra fabric, double the length measurement when figuring yardage for the decorative fabric and the lining. 2. Follow steps 3 through 7 under Cutting and Preparing Fabric, page 3. Making tucks 5. With the shade placed lining side up, mark a line across the width of the shade 4 from the top of the hem. This marks the position of the first tuck. 4. Starting with this line, mark the distance between the tucks (usually 6 to 8 ). Moving up 6 to 8, mark a line across the width of the shade. Con tinue marking lines across the width until you reach the top of the shade. 5. When all the tucks are marked, fold the shade with right sides together along each tuck line and press. 6. Stitch a 1/4 tuck along each line, using thread that matches the lining. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each tuck. 7. Mark dots locating the position of the rings on the tucks. The outer rings should be positioned 2 from the sides of the shade. Additional rings should be evenly spaced between them (usually every 8 to 12 ). 8. Measure the shade length at this point. Cut twill tape 5 to 8 longer than the length of the shade. One length will be needed for each row. 9. Mark a point 5 up from the end of the tape. Beginning at that point, mark the tape every 3 or half the distance between the tucks. Figure 31 «min 10. Beginning at the bottom of the shade, align and pin a marked spot on the tape to a ring position on the tuck. Place a ring on top of this spot and attach all the ring, tape and shade with a wide machine zig-zag stitch and zero stitch length.

10 Figure To make the rod pocket and rod cover and then mount, rig and install the shade, follow steps 14 through 30, pages 4 through Prepared by: Wilma Hammett Extension House Furnishings Specialist North Carolina State University The author wishes to thank Mary L. Russ, home economics extension agent in Brunswick County, for her notes and instructions which were used as a basis for this publication.

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12 Published by THE NORTH CAROLINA AGRICULTURAL EXTENSION SERVICE North Carolina State University at Raleigh, North Carolina Agricultural and Technical State University at Greensboro, and the US. Department of Agriculture, Cooperating. State University Station, Raleigh, NC, Chester D. Black, Director. Distributed in furtherance of the Acts of Congress of May 8 and June 30, The North Carolina Agricultural Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, or national origin, and is an equal opportunity employer. " M H E-320