General Instructions for Quilted Projects

Transcription

1 General Instructions for Quilted Projects Projects Designed Exclusively For Licensed Martha Pullen ~ Teaching Beginning Sewing Teachers 2003 Martha Pullen Company, Inc.

2 General Instructions for Quilted Projects All yardages and cutting charts are included with each project s instructions. The techniques included in this section are general instructions that are used (or can be used) in most of the quilted projects. Accuracy Always be accurate in quilting in cutting, stitching and pressing! The care given to be accurate at all times is instrumental in achieving the results you require. Pre-Treating Most quilters feel that cotton quilting fabrics should be pre-treated to prevent puckering due to shrinkage and to remove any excess dyes that may cause the fabrics to bleed onto other fabrics. Pre-treat the fabric by rinsing in hot water and hanging to dry or by placing it in a washing machine, with or without detergent, and dry in a dryer. Taking the fabric out of the dryer before it is completely dry will help with lessening the wrinkles. Some of our modern quilters feel that it is not necessary to pre-treat today s quilting fabrics. High quality quilting fabrics today do not shrink or bleed as they once did. These quilters may also like the sizing and crispness of off the bolt fabrics. If you choose to not pre-wash fabrics, it may be wise to test a square or two for color fastness and shrinkage. A light spray of spray starch can be added after washing and drying to add the crispness back to the fabric. Rulers Use rulers that are designed for use with a rotary cutter and mat. These rulers are available in various lengths, widths and shapes. Choose a ruler with clearly visible markings, markings that can be seen on light and dark fabrics. Some quilting experts recommend the use of the one specific ruler throughout one quilting project or at least the same brand of rulers. This is because the markings on different rulers vary and how we see them will vary. Rulers will sometimes have a non-slip surface, which helps to prevent the ruler from slipping while cutting. Small disks or sheets of non-slip material can be purchased to stick to the underside of rulers to prevent slippage also. Rotary Cutting Rotary cutters are very sharp and care must always be taken when handling a rotary cutter! NEVER put a rotary cutter down with the blade exposed or open and always lock it. This is a habit that MUST be learned for safety! Care should be taken not to run over straight pins or needles when using the rotary cutter. This will cause nicks in the blade and the blade will need changing. When changing the blade, dispose of the blade properly so that it will not harm anyone! Place the old blade in the original carton and tape securely. Follow the directions for the rotary cutter to change the blade. Blades do need to be changed as they become dull. Cut only on a mat designed for cutting with a rotary cutter and use a mat size appropriate for the fabric being cut and the size ruler being used. Always run the cutter away from your body and keep fingers well away from the edge of the ruler. When cutting, hold the ruler down firmly with one hand while pressing down firmly with the rotary cutter, keeping the rotary cutter blade against the edge of the ruler. The little finger of the hand holding the ruler (or finger away from the edge being cut) can be placed on the fabric next to the ruler to help hold the ruler in place. Several layers can be cut at once, but accuracy is important. When cutting a full width of fabric, fold the fabric in half with the selvages meeting. Fold again so the two selvages meet the fold line. Place on the cutting mat so that the double fold matches one of the horizontal grid marks. The end needs to be squared before cutting the necessary strips. Align the double fold with a marking on the ruler and cut through all layers. Now strips can be cut to the desired width. Align the marks on two sides of the ruler with the double fold of the fabric and the newly cut edge. After cutting several strips, square up the cut end to prevent a zigzag cut from the ruler slipping small amounts with each previous cut. Thread It is wise to use thread with the same content as the fabric; cotton threads with cotton fabrics and poly-blend threads with poly-blend fabrics. A 3-ply thread is better for piecing and quilting than a 2-ply thread. A thread that is stronger than the fabric can cause friction at the seams and eventually wear through the fabric. Needle Use a size 80/12 universal or quilting needle for stitching. Use a 75/11 90/14 metallica, metafil or embroidery needle when using specialty threads. Seams All quilters should determine how to sew a 1/4 seam on their machine. Accuracy is extremely important and not everyone will sew a 1/4 seam exactly the same. Do not depend on the 1/4 foot until you have tested it. Here are two ways to determine your 1/4 seam: 1. 1/4 graph paper: a. Use graph paper that has four markings per inch. b. Stitch exactly on the first line. c. Measure to be sure that it is exactly a 1/4 and make any adjustments necessary. d. Mark the throat plate. 2. Sewing strips together: a. Cut three 2 x 6 pieces of fabric. b. Sew these together with a 1/4 seam. c. Press the seams flat and then to one side. d. The piece should measure exactly 5 wide. Make any adjustments necessary. e. Mark the throat plate. 2

3 A scant 1/4 is frequently used when piecing and is a seam that is slightly smaller than a 1/4. It is used because some quilters believe that when stitching and pressing the seam allowance toward one side, a few extra threads are taken up in the seam allowance. Thus, if there are plenty of seams in a block this can be a substantial amount for that block. A scant 1/4 seam is accomplished by stitching one or two threads closer to the edge of the fabric than is required for a 1/4 seam. Many sewing machines allow the needle to be moved to achieve this. leader fabric Accuracy can be maintained during a block s construction by measuring each time a seam is sewn and pressed. Leader or Bumper Fabric Piece Begin and end sewing seams with an extra piece of fabric, especially when chain piecing or assembly line stitching (fig. 1). By beginning and ending on an extra piece of fabric, the thread tails will not need to be trimmed since they are already stitched into fabric. Have several pieces handy for this job. chain piecing Chain Piecing or Assembly Line Method Place squares (blocks, rows) right sides together as indicated in instructions. Toward the end of the leader or bumper fabric, position the pair to be sewn. Without cutting the threads between the leader or bumper fabric, sew the seam on the pair so that it is joined to the leader fabric. Position and sew the next set of fabrics without cutting the thread between the fabrics. Continue to stitch until all of the pairs are sewn (fig. 1). Sew onto another leader or bumper fabric. Leaving the leader fabric under the foot cut the threads between the pairs when complete. Pressing Verses Ironing; Steam Verses No Steam When sewing it is better to press rather than iron. Pressing is placing the iron on the fabric and lifting it up. Ironing means placing the iron on the fabric and sliding it around. Ironing can cause fabric to stretch out of shape or off grain. Pressing should be used in quilting. bias edges Figure 1 Although steam is very useful in pressing seam allowances, care should always be taken when using steam. Steam can cause stretching and distorting of fabric. Allow the fabric to cool after pressing with a dry iron and allow it to cool and dry after pressing with steam. Figure 2 drawn line Accuracy in pressing is important to prevent tucks or extra fabric in the seams. To press seams: a. Place the fabrics on the ironing surface with the darker fabric on top (or the fabric to which the seam allowance will be pressed). b. Press the seam as it was sewn to set the seam. c. Lift the darker fabric up and rub the tip of the iron over the seam allowance on the right side. This will press the seam allowance to the darker fabric and fully open the seam. Press the fabrics flat. stitching lines Figure 3 Half Square Triangles and Quarter Square Triangle Many quilt blocks consist of squares with two equal triangles. There are several ways to accomplish this. Templates can be used to cut two right angle triangles. The bias edges will then be sewn together (fig. 2). This is generally the least favored method since the stitching is done on bias edges. To make two half squares: a. Cut two squares 7/8 larger than the finished measurement. Example: for a 2 finished square cut two 2-7/8 squares. b. On the wrong side, connect two opposite corners on the lighter fabric with a ruler and washout marker. c. Place the squares right sides together with all of the edges matching. d. Sew 1/4 on each side of the marked line (fig. 3) e. Cut on the marked line (fig. 4). f. Press the seam allowance to the darker fabric or as instructed (fig. 5). g. Trim triangular points. cut apart Figure 4 trim triangular points Figure 5 3

4 Triangle paper for multiple squares these paper templates create multiple identical squares with half square triangles. They can be purchased in many different finished sizes or they can be drawn on the computer. a. Cut two squares or rectangles of fabric a little larger than the template for the required number of squares. b. Place the fabrics right sides together. c. Position the paper template on top of one of the fabric pieces making certain that the edges of the template fall within the edges of the fabric pieces. Temporary spray adhesive can be used to hold all of the layers together. d. Straight stitch (L=1.5) on the stitching lines (usually dotted or dashed lines). e. Using a rotary cutter, ruler and mat cut on all of the outside edges of the template lines and cutting lines (usually solid lines). f. Press the seam allowance as directed. The paper template helps to stabilize the fabrics especially when sewing on the bias of the fabric. Remove the paper when the block is completed or before finishing the quilt. A quarter square triangle can be achieved in a similar manner to the first method. a. Cut two squares 1-1/4 larger than the finished measurement. Example: for a 4 finished square cut two 5-1/4 squares. b. On the wrong side, connect the opposite corners on the lighter fabric with a ruler and washout marker creating an X. c. Place the squares right sides together with all of the edges matching. d. Sew 1/4 on each side of one marked line only (fig. 6). e. Cut on both marked lines (fig. 7). f. Press the seam allowance on each piece to the darker fabric or as instructed (fig. 8). Wiggle Fit Intersecting Seams or Nest/Butt Seams Together When pressing the seam allowance in one direction a small ridge forms on the side that the seam is pressed toward. To get this to work to your advantage press the seams of adjacent sections in opposite directions. When placing them right sides together to stitch the seam, wiggle the pieces to nest or butt them together. This ensures that the stitching lines are aligned. This may eliminate the need for pins (fig. 9). Assembling Rows and Columns Note: This method is used for assembling the sections of a pieced block as well as for assembling the blocks and sashings of a quilt. a. Lay out the blocks/sashing strips as directed in horizontal rows and vertical columns. b. Using figure 10 as a reference flip the pieces in column 2 over the pieces in column 1, right sides together. Stitch the pieces together using the chain piecing method. c. Open the stitched squares out flat and flip the squares in column 3 over column 2, right sides together. Stitch together with the assembly line method. d. Press the seam allowances in each row flat to set the seam. Press the seam allowances in row 1 and 3 to the left and to the right in rows 2 and 4. e. Lay out the rows in the correct order. Figure 6 Figure 7 bias edges Figure 8 seam allowances in opposite directions Figure 9 column 1 column 2 column 3 row 1 row 2 row 3 row 4 row 5 Figure 10 4

5 f. Flip row 2 over row 1, right sides together. Wiggle fit to nest or butt the seams together for a perfect match (fig. 11). g. Stitch the rows together. h. Repeat steps f and g for rows 3 and 4. i. Lay out the two-row combinations in the correct order. j. Repeat steps g and h for rows 1/2 and 3/4. h. Press the remaining seam allowances as instructed. row 1 row 2 press butt seams Batting There are many types of battings available cotton, wool, silk, polyester and combinations of these fibers. The loft of the batting refers to the thickness or puffiness. Battings can be available from low loft to extra high loft. The low loft battings are usually easier to quilt. The way that a specific batting is manufactured determines how far apart the quilting lines can be. Some battings require very close stitching to prevent the batting from shifting during use and care while other battings can be stitched with greater distances between the quilting lines. Always read the package to help determine the type of batting needed for a specific project. The generally available batting sizes are (always check with individual manufacturers regarding size): Craft Size: 34 x 45 Crib Size: 45 x 60 Twin Size: 72 x 90 Full Size: 84 x 96 Queen Size: 90 x 108 King Size: 124 x 120 The Quilt Sandwich The backing, batting and quilt top (and lining if used) together is generally referred to as a quilt sandwich. When making the quilt sandwich all layers must remain smooth. The backing and batting in the quilt sandwich are usually several inches larger than the quilt top. row 3 press row 4 press row 5 press quilt top Figure 11 batting backing Make the quilt sandwich: a. Place the backing wrong side up on a flat surface. It can be taped, clipped or pinned to the flat surface to help keep it flat. It should be taut but not stretched. b. Fold the batting into quarters and match the folded edges of the batting to one fourth of the backing. c. Open the next fold of the batting and match to the next quarter. d. Finish unfolding the batting to match the backing. Temporary spray adhesive can be used to help hold the layers together. e. Fold the quilt top into quarters and match the folded edges of the quilt top to one fourth of the batting/backing. f. Open the next fold of the quilt top and match to the next quarter of the batting/ backing. g. Finish unfolding the quilt top to match the batting/backing. Temporary spray adhesive can be used to help hold the layers together. h. Pin-baste all layers together to prevent shifting of the layers during the quilting process. Place the pins away from the planned quilting lines and about 3 4 apart depending on the batting used. i. Remove the tape, clips or pins holding the backing to the flat surface (fig. 12). Before machine quilting, fold the quilt sandwich into a manageable size so that it can be moved freely under the needle and foot. As stitching in one area is completed, refolding will become necessary. Figure 12 5

6 Machine Quilting To quilt is the actual stitches made to keep the quilt sandwich together. There are many different types of quilting, each giving a different look to the finished project. The quilting stitches can be done with the feed dogs up and an even feed foot on the machine or with free motion stitching. Some of the types of quilting are: a. Stitch in the ditch quilting refers to stitches that are placed in the well of the seams or in the ditch of the seam. These stitches will be almost invisible when done correctly. Use the even feed foot with the feed dogs up (fig. 13). b. Outline quilting is accomplished by following the shape of an object or the seams. Use the even feed foot and stitch 1/8 1/4 away from the shape or seam (fig. 14). Echo quilting is a type of outline quilting in which there are several rows of stitching outlining the object or seams. These stitches are visible and will cause the unstitched areas to puff away from the stitched areas. c. Clamshell quilting follows traced or drawn lines in a clamshell pattern (fig. 15). d. Motif quilting follows a drawn or traced outline, such as a butterfly or flower (fig. 16). e. Channel quilt by sewing parallel rows of straight stitching (fig. 17). f. Crosshatching is straight rows of quilting in a grid pattern to form squares or diamonds (fig. 18). g. Stipple stitching is free motion stitching the feed dogs are down and a free motion foot is on the machine. These lines of stitching can be close together to compress the background and cause the unstitched areas to be accentuated. Stitch the lines further apart for an over-all quilted effect or on a large quilt. The stitching lines are like puzzle pieces or squiggly lines that do not cross over each other or intersect another line. In free motion quilting the feed dogs are down and the free motion foot is against the fabric only when a stitch is being formed, so the set stitch length on the machine does not function. You are the stitch length (fig. 19). Stitch in the Ditch Quilting Figure 13 Figure 14 Clamshell Quilting Figure 15 Figure 16 Channel Quilting Figure 17 seams Outline Quilting Motif Quilting Crosshatch Quilting or Grid Quilting Figure 18 Stipple Quilting backing batting quilt top Figure 19 6

7 Binding 1. Cut fabric strips for the binding as directed in the project instructions. Place two strips right sides together. Stitch the layers together with a diagonal seam (fig. 20). 2. Trim the excess fabric 1/4 beyond the stitched seam. Press the seam open or to one side (fig. 21). 3. Continue stitching the strips together until you have one long continuous strip of binding. 4. Fold the strip lengthwise, with wrong sides together and long, raw edges meeting; press a light crease (fig. 22). 5. Mark the seam line at each corner of the quilt top. A miter line can also be marked (fig. 23). 6. Beginning near the center bottom, match and pin the raw edges of the binding strip to the raw edge of the pieced top (fig. 23). 7. Begin stitching 6 8 from the end of the binding and stitch to the marked seam line and/or miter line at the corner and backstitch (fig. 23). Pull the quilt out from under the machine and cut the threads. 8. Fold the binding up forming a diagonal fold the width of the binding to the corner to create a 45-degree angle the width of the binding (fig. 24). 9. Fold the binding again so that now there is a fold even with the top edge of the quilt and the raw edge of the binding matches the next raw edge of the quilt (fig. 25). 10. Begin stitching again exactly at the seam allowance (fig. 25). 11. Continue in this manner for all of the corners and the remaining binding. 12. Stop sewing the binding when there is 6 8 left for a total of about 12 unstitched on the quilt edge. 13. In the middle of the unstitched area, lay the beginning and ending binding along the seam line and fold it where it meets in opposite 90-degree angles and press. Position the beginning binding to meet the end and then fold it at a 90-degree angle, but in the opposite direction and press (fig. 26). 14. Unfold the bindings completely and press well to form a crease along the original fold line across the width of the binding (fig. 27). 15. Cut 1/2 beyond the crease line on each binding (fig. 27) 16. Matching the creases, pin the binding edges right sides together and stitch the binding using a 1/2 seam allowance (fig. 28). 17. Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 (fig. 28) and press to one side. Refold the binding in place and press. Figure 20 Figure 21 begin stitching 6-8 from end of binding Figure 22 Figure 23 Figure 24 fold in binding fold marked seam lines at corners miter line Figure 25 Figure o fold folds meet cut 1/2 beyond crease cut 1/2 beyond crease Figure 27 stitch at 1/2 and trim to 1/4 Figure 28 7

8 18. Finish stitching the binding to the quilt top (fig. 29). 19. Fold the binding over the edges of the quilt, enclosing the seam allowance. The folded edge of the binding should be placed just past the seam line. At each corner the binding will be folded into a miter. Stitch the binding in place by machine using a straight stitch in the ditch from the right side, or whipstitch in place by hand (fig. 30). Figure 29 a. Open out the folded binding strip and cut the beginning end of the binding at a 45 angle. Turn 1/4 to the wrong side along the angled edge. b. Place the binding along the edge of the quilt as usual, having the shortest edge of the angle facing up. Begin stitching the binding to the quilt 1-1/2 to 2 from the angled edge. c. Stitch the binding to the quilt and miter the corners as usual. When returning to the beginning, trim the end so that it will overlap the beginning by 1/2 or a little more. Insert the cut end of the binding into the fold of the angled beginning edge. Continue stitching to attach both ends to the quilt. d. Fold the binding over the edge of the quilt and finish by hand or machine as usual. Figure 30 Figure 31 8