ESPADRILLES Boots Instructions

Transcription

1 ESPADRILLES Boots Instructions SUPPLIES NEEDED: Espadrille Soles Espadrille Creative Yarn Espadrille Large Curved or Straight Needle Espadrille Needle Pullers Espadrille Yarn Wax Espadrille Glass Head Pins (for attaching boot to sole) Long, Fine Straight Pins (for sewing Sherpa Suede fabric) Fine Point Mark-B-Gone Marking Pen Faux Sherpa Suede Fabric ¾ yard (30 wide) or ⅜ yard (0 wide) Heavy weight non-woven interfacing x piece, for heel stabilizer Sewing Machine Thread all-purpose polyester to match fabric Optional: Faux Leather or Vinyl Fabric 8 x 11 piece, for contrast heel Heavy-weight Interfacing 10 x 12, for insoles Masking Tape (to mark left and right toes) See sole package for additional supplies. For best results use Dritz Espadrilles supplies

2 BOOTS INSTRUCTIONS SHERPA BOOTS Tips for sewing with Sherpa Suede: Sherpa may appear difficult to sew, but don t be intimidated. A few tips will make it a snap. Cut and test stitch 2 layers of Sherpa before starting the project to see if you need any special supplies. Use long straight pins with fine shafts and sharp points to manage bulky seams smoothly and minimize pin holes. Cut only one layer at a time to prevent shifting. To cut both sides of one boot, cut the pattern from one direction; then flip it over and cut its opposite side separately. Repeat the process for the second boot. Do not fold Sherpa and cut multiple layers at one time. Choose size 80/12 or 70/11 needles with Sharp, Universal or Microtex points to penetrate suede cleanly and help prevent skipped stitches. Attach a non-stick Teflon, roller foot or even-feed walking foot to keep thick fabric layers from shifting during stitching. Use a stitch length of 9 10 stitches per inch (about a 3mm length on most machines) to help produce straight and balanced stitches. Sometimes the first stitch causes bulky edges to get caught in the feed dogs. To avoid this, start about 3 stitches in from the edge, and stitch in reverse first, then stitch forward, avoiding possible jams. Also, using additional lift on the presser foot will help maneuver the fabric under the foot. Your project will not need pressing from step to step, but if you choose to press the Sherpa, cover it with a protective cloth during pressing. Use high steam to penetrate thick fibers. After cutting out the pieces, but before sewing, trim away excess Sherpa fluff along suede s cut edges so that the seam allowance width can be easily followed during stitching. Test marking tools and masking tape before transferring pattern markings to fabric to avoid permanently marring suede s surface. Consider using straight pins to mark dots or circles for joining pieces. PREPARATION 1. Cut out pattern pieces on appropriate size lines. Pattern sizes include ease for socks and pant legs. For narrow feet, size down; for wide feet, size up. If chosen pattern size differs from sole size, test-fit first with a trial boot made from heavy-weight scrap fabric such as fleece. 2. Following pattern instructions carefully, position cut pattern pieces onto suede surface, making sure fabric grain and nap direction match grainline arrows; secure in place with straight pins. Tip: To determine nap direction, run hand back and forth over suede surface, parallel to selvage. The direction that feels smooth should be aligned with grainline arrows pointing toward the sole. 3. Using fine point marking pen, trace pattern pieces onto suede; transfer pattern markings such as dots, circles, and center match lines. Do not transfer grain lines. 4. Cut boot pieces from Sherpa and heel stabilizer from heavy-weight interfacing. See above cutting tips. Tip: Toe pattern has inside and outside edges marked. Position pattern piece face up for right toe and face down for left toe. Use masking tape to mark pieces as LEFT and RIGHT for construction. 2

3 BOOTS INSTRUCTIONS CONSTRUCTION 1. Note: RS = Right Side, RST = Right Sides Together, WS = Wrong Side, WST = Wrong Sides Together Back Shaft: Pin shaft center back seam RST; stitch ½ seam from bottom edge to dot. Clip seam allowance at dot. Pin remaining unstitched seam allowance, WST; stitch ½ seam. 3. Pin WS heel to RS shaft at center back, aligning bottom edges and matching pattern marks. Topstitch heel around curve 1/8 from edge. BACK SHAFT CUFF Stitch WST BACK SHAFT stitch RST 4. Pin Heel Support and topstitch Slide heel stabilizer between heel and shaft so bottom edge is parallel to bottom edge of shaft. Pin; topstitch ¼ from bottom edge. 2. Trim seam allowance at top corners at an angle. Clip seam allowance every ½ between circles. Keeping seam allowance open flat, topstitch 1/4 from each side of seam line working from top to bottom edge. Clip top corners BACK SHAFT Topstitched seam Insert Stabilizer Stitch bottom edge 3

4 BOOTS INSTRUCTIONS 5. Front Shaft: Pin shaft center front seam RST; stitch ½ seam from bottom edge to dot. Clip seam allowance at dot. Pin remaining unstitched seam allowance WST; stitch ½ seam from dot to top edge. 7. Pin toe to front shaft along instep edges, WST, matching center front and side edges. Ease toe curve between dots to fit curve of shaft; stitch a 1/4 seam. Trim seam allowance to 1/8 width, exposing Sherpa to RS of boot. FRONT SHAFT Stitched RST FRONT SHAFT CUFF Stitched WST Ease toe between dots Stitch toe to Front Shaft. Trim seam allowance at top corners at an angle. Holding seam allowance open flat, topstitch 1/4 from each side of seam line working from top to bottom edge. Sherpa Tip: For best results, topstitch both sides of the seam going the same direction with the nap. 8. Side Seams: Pin front shaft to back shaft along sides, WST; stitch ½ seams from top to bottom. Trim seam allowance to 1/8 width, exposing Sherpa to RS of boot. Clip top corners. Topstitch. 4

5 BOOTS INSTRUCTIONS 9. Topstitch around bottom edge of boot, ¼ from edge. Fold top edge of shaft down to reverse seam allowances to create cuff. 3. Pin the boot to the sole by first lining up the center toe and center heel marks. Then pin the heels and sides snugly to the sole. Ease the toe fabric to the sole between the dots. Pins should be pushed in firmly so fabric edge lines up with sole edge. 10. Repeat Steps 1 9 for opposite boot. ATTACHING BOOT TO SOLE Place soles on work surface, jute side up. Pin-mark the center back and center toe of soles using the centering guide. To do this, place the heel on the guide and place a pin at the center of the heel. Pivot the sole so the longest point of the toe meets the intersecting lines. Mark the center of the toe. CREATIVE OPTIONS Instructions call for front and back seams to be stitched RST and topstitched. You can stitch WST and trim seam allowance as in Step. Or for a more tailored look, Stitch all seams of shaft RST and topstitch. Keep in mind however, that this option is rather difficult to stitch when topstitching the second side seam. The instep seam can be stitched RST, which adds a bit of internal bulk for an improved fit on narrow feet. 10 Line up toe at longest point Use faux leather or vinyl for the heel support to add texture or contrast Add a zipper opening to the inside boot side seam. Since sizes vary in length, purchase a 12 long zipper and trim it to fit the side seam of the shaft. It should extend from top dot at cuff to ¼ from the bottom edge. Baste and topstitch zipper to side seam Create cozy insoles for extra warmth or to tighten fit. To make the pattern, trace around edge of sole. Measure and draw a cutting line ¼ in from traced line; cut out the pattern. Fuse heavy-weight interfacing to suede side of fabric. Using fine point marking pen, trace pattern onto interfacing. Flip pattern over and trace pattern again for opposite foot. Cut out and insert into boots, Sherpa side up. 5

6 BOOTS INSTRUCTIONS Stitching to Sole 1. Cut 3 yards of yarn. Pull through yarn wax several times. (TIP: Press waxed yarn to help make it even smoother.) Thread needle and knot one end. Trim excess yarn close to knot. Begin stitching along inner edge of the sole. To start, insert needle into jute 1/4 down from edge of sole, and then up through sole and fabric about 1/4 from edge. (Use topstitching as a guide while stitching shoe pieces.) Pull yarn sharply to snug knot into jute. 1 2 BLANKET STITCH 2. Hold yarn to left (away from the stitch) and in the direction of stitching. Move over 1/4 and take a second stitch, coming up within loop of yarn. Sharply pull yarn to secure the stitch. Hold previous stitch in place with free hand, while taking next stitch. This is a BLANKET STITCH. Continue to pull yarn tightly for all stitching. (TIP: To help avoid tangles allow yarn and needle to dangle after every few stitches.) 3. When shoe is completely stitched, finish off the yarn. To do this, take your last stitch next to the beginning knot, coming up in the same place as the first stitch Insert the needle down into the fabric on the opposite side of the first stitch, coming out below one of the adjacent stitches. 5. Take a small stitch under the blanket stitch and back up through the stitch loop. Pull yarn tightly.. Insert needle back into jute below the stitch and come up close to blanket stitching. Pull yarn tight and cut close to fabric. 3 5