Print 4 copies of A, B, and C for the front of the bag Print 4 copies of A, B, and C for the back of the bag. Piece 'C' 1" square

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1 Print 4 copies of A, B, and C for the front of the bag Print 4 copies of A, B, and C for the back of the bag Piece 'C' 1" square

2 Piece 'A' 1 seam allowance seam allowance 3 Piece 'B' 4 seam allowance 2 1 5

3 Playdates_Lawson_GQ09MA14_GenQ Master Pages 2013 JP 1/27/2014 8:31 AM Page 69 katydid bag by sara lawson

4 Playdates_Lawson_GQ09MA14_GenQ Master Pages 2013 JP 1/27/2014 1:42 PM Page 70 This bag is the perfect platform for showcasing your favorite 12 block or a cool embroidered piece, or in this case, crispedged paper-pieced stars. The bag is small, yet sturdy, thanks in part to Annie s Soft and Stable. (Tip: If you haven t tried this so-versatile stabilizer yet, well, now is the time! Thank us later.) The bag also sports a recessed zipper closure along with a zippered pocket. Add some pretty leather handles to give it a sophisticated look. And get ready for compliments! (Note: Paper-piecing pattern and bag pattern pieces are included in this PDF.) designed and made by sara lawson com finished size: 11 1/2 wide X 11 1/2 long X 6 1/2 deep skill level: involved, but worth the effort. work carefully, but with confidence. overall materials: Front and back of bag: 3/4 yard of fabric Scraps for star: (optional) (2) 5 X WOF strips for wider star points; (6) 8 squares for thinner star points Lining: 3/4 yard Mid-weight fusible interfacing: 1 1/2 yards (Sara used Pellon SF-101 Shape Flex) Annie s Soft and Stable: 1/3 yard (This is a foam sew-in interfacing. A substitute would be fusible fleece batting.) Bottom stiffener: (2) 12 X 5 pieces of cardboard, heavy-duty template plastic or extra heavy interfacing Zippers: (1) 16 or recessed zippered panel, and (1) 12 for lining zippered pocket Pair of leather purse handles Optional: (4) metal purse feet Zipper foot and walking foot for your machine Washable fabric marking pen Pressing cloth Denim or topstitch sewing machine needle Tracing paper for making templates 70 Generation Q Magazine March/April 2014

5 Playdates_Lawson_GQ09MA14_GenQ Master Pages 2013 JP 1/27/2014 8:31 AM Page 71 cutting instructions If making paper-pieced star blocks: From background fabric: For front and back, cut (8) of template C. Then, cut (1) 3 1/2 X WOF strip and then cut (16) 2 1/2 X 3 1/2 rectangles for star backgrounds. From scraps, cut 5 X WOF strips into (16) 3 X 5 rectangles. Using the (6) 8 squares, cut (24) 2 X 7 rectangles. If not making the star block: From background fabric: Cut (1) 12 1/2 X WOF strip. Then, cut (2) 12 1/2 X 12 1/2 squares and (1) 12 1/2 X 7 outside bottom panel. Cut (2) on the fold from template G for outside pocket. Tape templates F and G together for the side panel piece (you can retrace this template to preserve template G for future projects). Then cut (2) side panels from F/G. For handle tabs, cut (1) 2 X WOF strip. Then, cut (4) 2 X 2 squares. From lining fabric: Cut (1) 12 1/2 X WOF strip. Cut (2) 12 1/2 X 12 1/2 squares for front and back lining. Cut (1) 12 1/2 X 7 lining bottom panel. Cut (1) 10 X 18 zipper pocket. Cut (2) 11 X 5 1/2 false bottoms. Cut (4) 11 1/2 X 2 1/2 zipper panels and (1) 4 X 2 zipper tabs. Using templates F/G, cut (2) side panels on the fold. From the Soft and Stable: Cut (2) 12 1/2 x 12 1/2 squares for front and back Cut (2) outside side panels using templates F/G Cut (1) outside bottom panel 18 X 7 From the mid-weight fusible interfacing: Cut (2) 12 1/2 X 12 1/2 squares for front and back panels. Cut (2) lining side panels, using templates F/G on fold Cut (1) 12 1/2 X 7 lining bottom panel Cut (2) 11 X 5 1/2 false bottoms Cut (4) 11 1/2 X 2 1/2 zipper panels piecing instructions 1. If making the star blocks, paper-piece them first. Add template C to the star blocks and complete. These are now the outside front and back panels. 2. Layer outside front panel, back panel, side panels and bottom panels on top of corresponding Soft and Stable, right sides up. Pin in place and baste 1/8 from raw edge on all sides. If desired, machine-quilt pieces. 3. Place the fusible (tacky) side of the midweight fusible to the wrong side of the lining bottom panel, lining front and back panels, lining side panels, false bottoms and zipper panels. Fuse per manufacturer s instructions. 4. To make the handle tabs, fold square in half and press. Then open and fold raw edges in to meet at center crease. Fold again at center crease, stitch 1/8 from both edges to hold in place. Repeat for remaining (3) handle tabs and set aside. 5. On front panel, mark 2 from top left side and 2 from top right side. 6. Slide handle tab into (1) metal ring of leather purse handle, folding tab in half to enclose the metal ring, pin raw edges of tabs to left top raw edge of front panel at the right side of the 2 mark. Repeat for right side of handle keeping tab to the left of the 2 mark. Repeat for other back panel. Make sure that the leather purse handles are not twisted when attaching the tabs. 7. If using the purse feet, attach them now. Mark a spot 1 1/2 from both sides of corners on all 4 sides. Use a seam ripper to create a small hole at the intersection of the lines. Insert the purse feet and open prongs out. Use Fray Check or seam sealant to reinforce the holes. 8. Sew the bottom panel to front panel along bottom edge and press seam open. Sew back panel to opposite side of bottom panel and press seam open. 9. Add side panels by lining up top edge and centering side panel with the bottom panel. Pin in place and sew. Repeat for other side panel. Press and notch curved edges. Exterior of bag is done for now, set aside. 10. Creating the zippered pocket: Generation Q Magazine March/April

6 Playdates_Lawson_GQ09MA14_GenQ Master Pages 2013 JP 1/27/2014 8:31 AM Page 72 katydid bag, continued Photo 1 a) Draw a line 10 down from the 10 side, all the way across the rectangle; draw an additional line 1/2 below the previous line. To connect these lines, draw a vertical line 1 from both edges of the rectangle. b) Find the center of the pocket rectangle and the back lining panel and fingerpress. With right sides up, place the lining panel on a flat surface, then add the pocket on top with markings showing and pocket rectangle 3/4 up from bottom edge of back lining. Both pieces should be centered; pocket will extend past top of back lining. Pin in place. See photo 1. Photo 2 c) Sew through all layers on the lines you drew on the pocket rectangle. Cut in the middle of the rectangle through all layers, making a V cut at both ends to the corners and being careful not to cut through stitching. See photo Generation Q Magazine March/April 2014 Photo 3 d) Pull the zipper pocket through the opening to the wrong side of the lining panel; press. See photo 3. e) Center the 12 zipper in the opening, right side of zipper and lining up; pin in place. Using zipper foot, stitch in place 1/8 around opening keeping excess pocket fabric free. f) Flip lining/pocket assembly to wrong side, fold pocket rectangle in half and align sides and bottom edges of just the pocket in a 1/4 seam along both sides and bottom. 11. Assembling the lining: a) Place (1) zipper panel and the 16 zipper RST with long edges even and top of zipper 1/2 from edge of zipper panel. Using the zipper foot, stitch along the length of the zipper beginning and ending 1/2 from short end of zipper panel. Using second zipper panel, place it right side to right side of first zipper panel with zipper in between, align edges of both zipper panels. Stitch through all layers along previous stitching lines. Pull both zipper panels away from zipper, and press with wrong sides together. Fold all ends of zippered panel in 1/4 and press and pin. Repeat for both panels. Topstitch 1/8 from all (3) edges and along edge at zipper. Repeat for other side of zipper with remaining (2) zipper panels. b) Using your zipper tab, press in half, wrong sides together and then open and

7 Playdates_Lawson_GQ09MA14_GenQ Master Pages 2013 JP 1/27/2014 8:31 AM Page 73 put raw edges in center along crease and press again. Turn under 4 sides and press under 1/4. Refold tab so that all raw edges are enclosed and slip zipper end into tab opening up to crease. Pin in place and stitch 1/8 from edge on all (4) sides, across zipper teeth completely enclosing zipper end. (This will become your zipper stop.) c) Measure and draw a line 1 1/2 from the top of the front and back lining panels. Place one side of zipper panel right side down on the line and stitch through all layers. Repeat for other side. (Lining panel should be right side up and zipper should be right side down on both sides.) d) Sew front lining to bottom lining panel; sew back lining to other side of bottom lining panel, leaving an 8 opening. Sew lining side panels to both sides of lining front/bottom/back pieces. 12. Finishing the bag: a) Turn the outside right side out. Unzip the zipper and place the outside inside the lining so that they are RST and side seams are matching. Pin in place along the top edge. (Tuck handles and zipper panel completely inside.) Sew along pinned edge. Turn bag right side out through the opening in the lining and press. Stitch opening closed with a 1/4 topstitch or by hand. b) Topstitch the top opening of the bag using a 1/4 seam allowance. c) Sew the (2) false bottom fabrics RST along (3) ends leaving one short end unsewn. Clip the corners and turn right side out and press. Press the remaining raw edge under 1/4. Slide the two pieces of bottom stiffener (interfacing, acrylic or cardboard) into the opening and stitch closed using a 1/8 seam allowance. Insert the false bottom in to your bag. Sara Lawson lives with her family in Chicago. She started her blog, Sew Sweetness, in September 2010 in an attempt to learn how to sew and figure out how the heck to read a sewing pattern. She became completely obsessed with making bags! Her first book, Big City Bags (Martingale) debuted in November 2013, and she has additional bag patterns available as PDF and paper patterns. Her first line of fabric launches this summer with Art Gallery Fabrics, along with a matching Aurifil thread collection. See more of her work at Generation Q Magazine March/April

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