~ Little Wonders Pouch Patterns ~ 2014 Geta Grama; Boxy Pouch

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Prosper Mills
6 years ago
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1 Boxy Pouch Pouch size: 6 wide at bottom; 9 wide at top; 7½ tall; 3 deep ~ Please read all the instructions carefully before starting to make the pouch ~ Page 1

Lining fabric 10 x 20 - for the pouch lining 8 x 12½ - for the zippered pocket 7 zipper the top zipper 6 zipper pocket s zipper You can

2 1. Materials List Main fabric: 10 x 20 (I used quilt weight fabric) Fusible fleece: 10 x 20 Following the manufacturer s instructions, fuse the fusible fleece to the back of the main fabric. You can substitute the fusible fleece with light to medium fusible interfacing. Lining fabric 10 x 20 - for the pouch lining 8 x 12½ - for the zippered pocket 7 zipper the top zipper 6 zipper pocket s zipper You can use longer zippers too; carefully read the notes about zippers on pages #19 and #20. Seam allowances: 3/8, unless otherwise stated. Page 2

2. Attach the top zipper On the WRONG side of the large lining piece draw a

First mark the center of the small edge then draw the rectangle 9¾ away from

In the middle of the rectangle draw a centre with a V-shape at the ends (see

Use a water-soluble pen for marking or mark with thin lines.

fleece on the back), right sides together.

3 2. Attach the top zipper On the WRONG side of the large lining piece draw a ½ x 7 rectangle, exactly on the center. First mark the center of the small edge then draw the rectangle 9¾ away from the left edge and 1½ away from the top and bottom edges of the piece. In the middle of the rectangle draw a centre with a V-shape at the ends (see the yellow marking). Here is a close-up. Use a water-soluble pen for marking or mark with thin lines. Place the lining piece over the main fabric piece (this piece has fusible fleece on the back), right sides together. Pin around the drawn rectangle to keep the pieces together. Stitch through all the layers along all sides of the black rectangle. Backstitch when you reach the corner to strengthen it. Here is a close-up. Page 3

4 Carefully cut down the center of the rectangle (cut on the yellow lines in the previous images) then clip toward the corners as close as you can without clipping the stitching. Pull the lining though the hole you just cut to the wrong side of the main fabric. Use pins to keep the rectangle flat. Press with steam. The lining fabric must be hidden when viewed from the front side. The main fabric and lining are now wrong sides together. Page 4

Position the longer zipper behind the opening.

Then stitch all along the opening to secure the

stitching (make sure you catch the zipper s tape in

5 Position the longer zipper behind the opening. Baste in place. Then stitch all along the opening to secure the zipper in place (a zipper foot is helpful). Using a cloth, press well on the front. Here are views from the front and back of the piece. Here is a close-up. Stitch for the second time, 1/8 away from the first stitching (make sure you catch the zipper s tape in the seam). This will secure the zipper better. If your zipper is longer, trim off the excess. Also see the note about zipper on page #20. Page 5

3. Stitch the zippered pocket On the WRONG side of the smaller

Then draw a ½ x 6 rectangle, 1 away from the top edge.

Here is a close-up. Mark the yellow lines too.

6 3. Stitch the zippered pocket On the WRONG side of the smaller lining piece, mark the center of the top small edge. Then draw a ½ x 6 rectangle, 1 away from the top edge. Keep it centered widthwise (1 away from the left and right edges). Here is a close-up. Mark the yellow lines too. Turn the piece with the right side of the main fabric down and with a pin keep the lining away from the bottom half. Page 6

Turn it over again, with the right side of the main fabric up.

Stitch through all the layers along all sides of the rectangle (the

7 Turn it over again, with the right side of the main fabric up. Place the pocket lining over the main fabric ½ away from the zipper, centered widthwise, as in this photo. Pin around the drawn rectangle to keep the pieces together. Stitch through all the layers along all sides of the rectangle (the black lines). Backstitch when you reach the corner to strengthen it. Here are views from the front and back of the piece. Page 7

Repeat the steps done to stitch the previous

Cut down the center of the rectangle (the

toward the corners as close as you can without

Pull the lining though the hole you just cut

8 Repeat the steps done to stitch the previous zipper. Cut down the center of the rectangle (the yellow lines in the previous images), clip toward the corners as close as you can without clipping the stitching. Pull the lining though the hole you just cut to the wrong side of the main fabric. Press the opening. There are now two linings attached to the main fabric. Page 8

Position the second (shorter) zipper behind the opening.

It's easier to use the pouch if both zippers open in the same direction.

Press well on the front. Trim off the excess of the zipper.

sides. The zippered pocket is done. NOTE At this stage, open the TOP zipper at least half way.

9 Position the second (shorter) zipper behind the opening. Place the zipper so that it opens in the same direction as the previous zipper. It's easier to use the pouch if both zippers open in the same direction. Baste the zipper in place. Stitch all along the opening to secure the zipper in place. Press well on the front. Trim off the excess of the zipper. Fold the pocket lining in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch along the three sides. The zippered pocket is done. NOTE At this stage, open the TOP zipper at least half way. 4. Finish the outer pouch Lay the piece this way, with the wrong side (fleece side) of the main fabric up. Draw a line 2 away from the short edge; repeat for the other short edge (see the blue lines). Page 9

Fold the main fabric in half, bringing the

10 Fold the main fabric in half, bringing the short edges together and keeping the right side of the fabric inside. Stitch the short edges together with a 3/8 seam allowance. Press the seam open. You now have a tube. Fold the piece on one of the blue lines, as in this photo. Page 10

Stitch 3/8 away from the edges (see the black lines).

11 Repeat and fold on the other line. Bring the folds together, keeping all the edges aligned. Keep everything aligned with pins. Make sure the top zipper is open at least half way. Stitch 3/8 away from the edges (see the black lines). Stitch twice to reinforce the seam (stitch on top of the first seam). Note you do not catch the lining into the seam (see the yellow arrows). The outer pouch is finished. NOTE Do not stitch the bottom folds together. Only sew the sides. Page 11

12 5. Finish the lining Fold the lining in half, with the right side inside. Align all the edges. Draw then cut out 2 squares from the corners, as shown in the below photos. The lining should look like this picture. Sew the darts. Bring together the raw edges of one dart section, pin and stitch. Stitch twice to reinforce the seam (see the black line). Repeat and sew all the darts. Page 12

Fold the lining again in half, keeping aligned all the edges.

Leave a gap in the side seam (about 4 ). Stitch twice to reinforce the seams.

lining right side out. Push out the corners using your fingers.

Fold the raw edges of the lining toward the inside, match the folds and keep

13 Fold the lining again in half, keeping aligned all the edges. Match up the darts. Pin to keep the layers in place and sew around the edges. Leave a gap in the side seam (about 4 ). Stitch twice to reinforce the seams. Using the opening left in the lining, gently turn the outer pouch and the lining right side out. Push out the corners using your fingers. Close the opening in the lining. Fold the raw edges of the lining toward the inside, match the folds and keep them in place with pins. Hand or machine stitch. Tuck the lining inside and give the whole thing a final press. Your pouch is now finished. Page 13

Slim Pouch Pouch size: 10 wide; 5½ tall Materials List

Fusible fleece: 11 x 12½ Following the manufacturer s

14 Slim Pouch Pouch size: 10 wide; 5½ tall Materials List Main fabric: 11 x 12½ (I used quilt weight fabric) Fusible fleece: 11 x 12½ Following the manufacturer s instructions, fuse the fusible fleece to the back of the main fabric. Lining fabric: 11 x 12½ 8 zipper or longer Seam allowances: 3/8, unless otherwise stated. Page 14

On the WRONG side of the lining draw a ½ x 8 rectangle, parallel with the

Stitch through all the layers along all sides of the rectangle (the black

Pull the lining though the hole to the wrong side of the main fabric.

15 On the WRONG side of the lining draw a ½ x 8 rectangle, parallel with the shorter edge, exactly on the center, 6 away from the left edge and 1½ away from the top and bottom edges of the piece. Place the lining piece over the main fabric piece, right sides together. Stitch through all the layers along all sides of the rectangle (the black lines). Cut down the center of the rectangle. Pull the lining though the hole to the wrong side of the main fabric. Press the opening. Sew the zipper into the opening. Stitch for the second time, 1/8 away from the first seam, to secure the zipper better. OPEN THE ZIPPER AT LEAST HALF WAY. Page 15

16 Fold the outer fabric in half, aligning all the edges. Stitch as shown (see the black lines). Keep the lining away from the stitching (see the yellow arrows). Trim off the corners. Repeat and stitch the lining, but leave a gap. Here the outer pouch and lining are stitched. Page 16

17 Using the opening left in the lining, turn the outer pouch and the lining right side out. Push out the corners using your fingers. Close the opening in the lining. Tuck the lining inside and give the whole thing a final press. Your pouch is now finished. ~~ See the NOTES on the next pages~~ Page 17

18 NOTES 1. If you want to box the outer pouch the usual way, like we did on the lining, skip step #4 and follow the instructions for step #5. 2. You could vary the distance you draw the lines away from the edges in step #4 and make a bigger or smaller pouch bottom; cut out accordingly the squares from the lining s corners. 3. If you use directional fabric, cut out two panels and piece them together (head to head) if you want the design to run in the same direction for the front and back of the pouch. As an accent, you could insert a strip from a different fabric in the middle (about 4 wide), like I did for the pouch in the above picture. Page 18

4. Make pouches in different sizes and shapes.

All you have to keep in mind is that you need to draw the slot for the zipper on the

Zipper width Most of my zippers are 1¼ width (see the picture on the left).

19 4. Make pouches in different sizes and shapes. Now that you know the technique, it is easy to customize the shape and size and make pouches to fit your style and need. Here is an example: I started with a quilted hexagonal piece and here is the pouch. All you have to keep in mind is that you need to draw the slot for the zipper on the center of your lining piece and at least 1½ away from the edges. 5. Zipper width Most of my zippers are 1¼ width (see the picture on the left). But I successfully stitched 1 zippers too. If you have 1 zippers and find it difficult to stitch the zipper into the ½ slot, draw the slot for the zipper slightly smaller than half of an inch. Page 19

NOTE about zipper s length It is best to use a zipper whose length (the length of the zipper

Here is the zipper stitched into the opening. And here is how it looks like on the back.

Note the zipper doesn t extend past the black line.

this one, you don t have to trim the excess off, meaning that the finished ends of the zipper

20 NOTE about zipper s length It is best to use a zipper whose length (the length of the zipper teeth) is the same as the length of the zipper opening (not a longer zipper). Here is the zipper stitched into the opening. And here is how it looks like on the back. The black dashed line is the seam allowance when you sew the lining/front pouch. Note the zipper doesn t extend past the black line. This technique doesn t involve catching the zipper into the seam but with a shorter zipper like this one, you don t have to trim the excess off, meaning that the finished ends of the zipper remain intact. Here is my finished pouch, with the lining right side out. Note the zipper end is free (it wasn t stitched into any seam). This zipper end remained intact. Page 20

Enjoy your new pouches! Geta Grama Geta s website: www.romanianquiltstudio.com Geta s blog: www.cadouri-din-inima.blogspot.com Email Geta: geta@romanianquiltstudio.

21 Because my zipper was longer, the excess was trimmed off from the other end. For a finished look, you might choose to cover the raw end with a zip tab (it could be any fabric with no raw edge exposed, so that it doesn t ravel; I used a piece of faux leather). Enjoy your new pouches! Geta Grama Geta s website: Geta s blog: Geta: geta@romanianquiltstudio.com Copyright Information: 2014 Geta Grama Home sewers may sell handmade items made with this pattern; please give credit to Geta Grama for the pattern. Mass production is strictly prohibited. Copying and distributing of this pattern is prohibited. Thank you for choosing my pattern! Page 21

Bon Voyage - bag pattern -

~~~ Bon Voyage Bag Pattern ~~~ 2014 Geta Grama; www.romanianquiltstudio.com Bon Voyage - bag pattern - Size: 18 wide at top; 21 wide at bottom; 15'' tall (without straps); 5'' deep; two interior pockets;