Bon Voyage - bag pattern -

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Spencer Garrison
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1 ~~~ Bon Voyage Bag Pattern ~~~ 2014 Geta Grama; Bon Voyage - bag pattern - Size: 18 wide at top; 21 wide at bottom; 15'' tall (without straps); 5'' deep; two interior pockets; one exterior zippered pocket ~ Please read all the instructions carefully before starting to make the bag ~ Page 1

2 1. Materials List The fabric used for the front of the bag is quilting weight fabric, 42'' wide. Prewash all the fabrics. 18'' x 25'' main fabric for the front panel 1¼ yard accent fabric for the rest of the bag (gusset, back, straps, binding); allow more if you use directional fabric. This fabric should contrast with the main fabric. 1½ yards fabric for lining and pockets 3¼ yards (35'' wide) lightweight interfacing for the outer bag and lining; you will need more or less, depending on the width of your interfacing. For example, if your interfacing is 20'' wide (like Pellon SF 101), you need 4½'' yards. 40'' x 45'' batting to quilt the pieces for the outer bag and for straps; I used cotton batting. 1 yard (42'' wide) heavyweight fabric ( canvas, duck cloth) as backing for all the quilted pieces 10 (25 cm) zipper (or longer) for the exterior zippered pocket 23 (58 cm) zipper (or longer) for the zipper closure jeans/denim needle (100/16) coordinating thread. 2. Seam allowances Stitch using 3/8 (1cm) seam allowances unless otherwise stated. Some steps require narrower seam allowances so read the instructions carefully. 3. Prepare the templates The template includes seam allowances. Open and print the file templates-bv.pdf. Print in the original size. A test square is included on the first page. Measure it to make sure that you print the pattern at the proper scale. This is a half-template made out of three pieces (A, B and C). Print A, B and C patterns twice, assemble the halves then tape the halves together to get the full template. The half-template should look like the diagram on the left. Page 2

4. Cut and prepare the pieces of the outer bag Using the template T1 (front and back of

Cut pieces larger than the template (1'' all around).

You will be quilting the two T1 pieces and the two gusset pieces.

Following the manufacturer's direction, fuse the interfacing to the back of the fabric.

3 4. Cut and prepare the pieces of the outer bag Using the template T1 (front and back of the bag), cut out one piece from the main fabric and one piece from the accent fabric. Cut pieces larger than the template (1'' all around). For the gusset cut two pieces 6'' x 29'' from the accent fabric. You will be quilting the two T1 pieces and the two gusset pieces. For all these pieces, cut out lightweight interfacing pieces of the same size. Following the manufacturer's direction, fuse the interfacing to the back of the fabric. Let the pieces cool. 5. Quilt the pieces of the outer bag Layer all the pieces of the outer bag with batting and backing and quilt as desired. A dense quilting is the best. Stippling is perfect. Page 3

Place the template T1 over the quilted pieces. Trace around it with a marker and cut on the lines. These are the front and back panels of the outer bag.

Cut and prepare the pieces for the lining and pockets From the lining cut out: - two pieces 1'' larger than the T1 template - two pieces 6'' x 29'' for the gusset - two pieces 6½'' x 26'' for the

4 Place the template T1 over the quilted pieces. Trace around it with a marker and cut on the lines. These are the front and back panels of the outer bag. For the gusset adjust the width of the pieces to 5½''. Join them and stitch the seam allowances down to keep the seam open. Adjust the length to 56''. 6. Cut and prepare the pieces for the lining and pockets From the lining cut out: - two pieces 1'' larger than the T1 template - two pieces 6'' x 29'' for the gusset - two pieces 6½'' x 26'' for the interior pockets - 12½'' x 20'' lining for the zippered exterior pocket For all these pieces, cut out lightweight interfacing pieces of the same size. Fuse the interfacing to the back of the lining fabric pieces. Let the pieces cool. Trim each piece to size (with the exception of pockets), the same way you did for the quilted pieces in the previous step. See the diagrams on page #18 for additional help on cutting the fabric pieces. Page 4

7. Sew the zippered pocket onto the bag back.

At 1½'' from the top edge, mark a rectangle (centered width-wise) that is 10'' long and ½ wide

Use a water-soluble pen for marking or mark with thin lines and a permanent marker.

Pin the pocket lining to the bag back, 1½ away from the top edge, right sides together.

5 7. Sew the zippered pocket onto the bag back. Turn the lining of the outer pocket (12½''x20 ) wrong side up. At 1½'' from the top edge, mark a rectangle (centered width-wise) that is 10'' long and ½ wide (see the black lines). Use a water-soluble pen for marking or mark with thin lines and a permanent marker. Mark the yellow lines too, as shown. Pin the pocket lining to the bag back, 1½ away from the top edge, right sides together. Stitch through all the layers along all sides of the black rectangle. Backstitch when you reach the corners, this will strengthen the corners. Carefully cut down the center of the rectangle (cut on the yellow lines in the previous images) then clip toward the corners as close as you can without clipping the stitching. Page 5

Pull the lining though the hole you just cut to

The lining fabric must be hidden when viewed

This is how it looks from the right side and

6 Pull the lining though the hole you just cut to the wrong side of the back panel. Use pins to keep the opening flat. Press with steam. The lining fabric must be hidden when viewed from the front side. This is how it looks from the right side and from the wrong side. Position the zipper behind the opening. Baste in place. Then stitch all along the opening to secure the zipper in place (a zipper foot is helpful). Here is the back. If your zipper is longer, trim off the excess. Page 6

Fold the pocket lining in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch along the three sides. Clip the corners.

Mark the center of the front panel and the center of the gusset.

the gusset ends. The gusset is longer; the excess will be trimmed off later.

7 Fold the pocket lining in half lengthwise, right sides together and stitch along the three sides. Clip the corners. The zippered pocket is done. 8. Assemble the bag First, attach the front panel of the bag to the gusset. Mark the center of the front panel and the center of the gusset. Keeping the pieces right sides together and matching the center points, start pinning from the center and go toward the gusset ends. The gusset is longer; the excess will be trimmed off later. When you reach the curved corner, clip into the seam allowance of the gusset. It will be easier to align the edges. Stitch with ¼'' seam allowances. Narrow seam allowance is the secret to easily stitching nice rounded corners. Page 7

As you approach the curved corner, slow the sewing down.

keep the gusset smooth with your left hand.

reposition the fabric before commencing sewing.

Sew with dense stitches (stitch length set to 2).

Turn the piece to the right side and check the corner.

8 As you approach the curved corner, slow the sewing down. Move the fabric under the needle with your right hand (if you are right handed) while you keep the gusset smooth with your left hand. When it is necessary, lift up the presser foot (with the needle in the down position) and reposition the fabric before commencing sewing. Continue to stitch in this "stop and start" manner for the curved corners. Sew with dense stitches (stitch length set to 2). Clip into the seam allowances of the curved edges. Turn the piece to the right side and check the corner. It has to be nicely rounded and the seam allowances wide enough so that the seam doesn't fall apart. Make adjustments if necessary then double the seam (stitch on top of the previous seam) to reinforce the bagthis is very important. Trim off the excess of the gusset as shown below (the red line must be parallel with the gusset s top edge). Page 8

In the same way attach the bag back to the gusset.

Align the top edges of the front and back panel.

9 In the same way attach the bag back to the gusset. Your bag should look like this. Align the top edges of the front and back panel. Place a long ruler over the bag as shown and trim off the excess. 9. Sew the lining Prepare the pockets Fold the pocket fabric in half lengthwise. Pin and stitch around the three sides, leaving an opening on one side. Clip the corners. Turn the pocket right side out. Use a pointy object to push out the corners. Press well. Close the opening (stitching by hand or by machine). Repeat with the other pocket. Page 9

pockets in the center of the lining piece.

10 Give the pocket a nice finishing touch. Topstitch across the top edge - twice is even better. Attach the interior pockets Lay one of the pockets in the center of the lining piece. Mark the center and stitch as in the picture (see the red line). Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Make a fold ½'' to the right of the center seam. Bring the fold toward the center. Pin in place. Page 10

Do the same to the left of the center seam.

Here it is a nice 3D pocket, with more volume than a simple

Repeat all these steps for the other pocket and lining piece.

11 Do the same to the left of the center seam. Then pin the rest of the pocket in place and stitch along the three edges. Make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam. Here it is a nice 3D pocket, with more volume than a simple slip pocket. Repeat all these steps for the other pocket and lining piece. Join the lining gusset pieces together. Trim the lining gusset to 5½'' x 56''. Assemble the lining the same way you assembled the outer tote pieces. Press the lining. Page 11

10. Sew the straps The strap length is a matter of preference.

preference. Only after that cut the straps in the desired length.

Fold the strap pieces in half lengthwise and press. Fold the long edges into the center and press.

12 10. Sew the straps The strap length is a matter of preference. Before you cut the straps, make a test: in the next step use a long piece of ribbon instead of strap and adjust the length according to your preference. Only after that cut the straps in the desired length. For my straps I cut two pieces 7'' wide and 28'' long and two batting strips 3 3/8'' wide and 28'' long. Fold the strap pieces in half lengthwise and press. Fold the long edges into the center and press. Open the strip then lay the batting strip down on to the center of the fabric. Bring the edges toward the center and press. Fold the resulting strip in half lengthways again. Topstitch along the long edges, 1/8" from the edge and onto the center. Pin the straps 2'' away from the gusset seam, as shown. Stitch the strap securely in place at ¼'' from the edge (see the red marking). Repeat with the other strap. Page 12

11. Finish the bag Attach the lining Slip the lining, wrong side out, into the bag. The fabrics are now wrong sides together.

Stitch around the top, 1/8'' away from the edges, joining the bag and the lining. Zipper closure Open the zipper.

Start basting ½'' from the "V" point of the bag (see the "A" and red arrow in the picture on the left).

13 11. Finish the bag Attach the lining Slip the lining, wrong side out, into the bag. The fabrics are now wrong sides together. Match the top edges and the gusset seams and pin around the top to keep the pieces together. Stitch around the top, 1/8'' away from the edges, joining the bag and the lining. Zipper closure Open the zipper. You will baste the zipper to the inside of the bag, zipper face up, aligning the zipper tape edge with the top edge of the bag. Start basting ½'' from the "V" point of the bag (see the "A" and red arrow in the picture on the left). "B" is where you will be stopping basting; it is ½'' away from the other "V" point. Start with one part of the zipper.it will be basted to the inside of the front of the bag. Fold under the end of the zipper tape and start basting. Page 13

Here is a close up. Baste near the edges so you don't have to remove the basting stitching later.

Your zipper start and end will look like these two pictures below. Here is the start of the zipper.

Make sure the ends of the zipper tape are folded as shown in the picture.

14 Here is a close up. Baste near the edges so you don't have to remove the basting stitching later. Repeat with the other part of the zipper. Baste it to the inside of the back of the bag. Your zipper start and end will look like these two pictures below. Here is the start of the zipper. The space between the "A" points should be about an inch. Make sure the ends of the zipper tape are folded as shown in the picture. This is the end of the zipper. There is the same one inch between the "B" points. Fold the end of the zipper as shown in the picture. Note the zipper pull is facing the lining here. Page 14

Here is the zipper basted all around the top edge of the bag. Binding Cover the top raw edges with binding.

Start binding on the back of the bag, in this way the joining seam of the binding will not be visible on the front of the bag.

directions. You might find it easier to stitch with the zipper side up. A zipper foot is helpful.

15 Here is the zipper basted all around the top edge of the bag. Binding Cover the top raw edges with binding. Cut a piece 2¾'' wide and about 42'' long from the accent fabric. Iron your binding strip in half lengthwise. Start binding on the back of the bag, in this way the joining seam of the binding will not be visible on the front of the bag. In this picture I started binding on the front only to show a better contrast between the bag and binding fabric, for a better understanding of the directions. You might find it easier to stitch with the zipper side up. A zipper foot is helpful. Stitch close to the zipper teeth, about ¼'' to 3/8'' from the edge. Make sure you catch the zipper tape in the seam. Then fold the binding back to attach to the lining/zipper. Stitch by hand to secure it (it's easier than stitching by machine), with a hidden seam. Here is the starting point of the zipper. Page 15

Here is the end of the zipper. Tuck the extra length of the zipper into the bag.

The final step is to make sure the straps are securely fastened to the bag.

~ see the next pages for additional notes and diagrams ~ Enjoy your new bag! Geta Grama Geta s website: www.romanianquiltstudio.com Geta s blog: www.cadouri-din-inima.blogspot.

16 Here is the end of the zipper. Tuck the extra length of the zipper into the bag. Cover the end of the zip with a zip tab (it could be any fabric with no raw edge exposed, so that it doesn t ravel; you could use a piece of leather, faux leather). The final step is to make sure the straps are securely fastened to the bag. Keep the straps down and stitch in the ditch over the straps, close to the binding (see the red marking below). Double this seam (stitch back). The bag is finished. ~ see the next pages for additional notes and diagrams ~ Enjoy your new bag! Geta Grama Geta s website: Geta s blog: Geta: geta@romanianquiltstudio.com Copyright Information: 2014 Geta Grama Home sewers may sell handmade items made with this pattern; please give credit to Geta Grama for the pattern. Mass production is strictly prohibited. Copying and distributing of this pattern is prohibited. Thank you for choosing my pattern! Page 16

Hexagon Flower Bag If you want to piece hexagon flowers for the

placement of the flowers and the number of flowers/hexagons needed.

interfacing to the back of a hexagon- pieced front panel; the seam

Refer to my free tutorials if you need tips for making your own

17 Hexagon Flower Bag If you want to piece hexagon flowers for the front of the bag, refer to the diagrams below to find out the placement of the flowers and the number of flowers/hexagons needed. 1¼'' hexagons 1'' hexagons ¾'' hexagons NOTES Do not fuse interfacing to the back of a hexagon- pieced front panel; the seam allowances make the process difficult. Refer to my free tutorials if you need tips for making your own hexagon templates or help for quilting hexagons. Page 17

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~ Little Wonders Pouch Patterns ~ 2014 Geta Grama; Boxy Pouch

~~~ Little Wonders Pouch Patterns ~~~ 2014 Geta Grama; Boxy Pouch Boxy Pouch Pouch size: 6 wide at bottom; 9 wide at top; 7½ tall; 3 deep ~ Please read all the instructions carefully before starting to make the pouch ~ Page 1 1. Materials List Main fabric: 10 x 20 (I