A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude...

Transcription

1 A few notes about PDF patterns from Designs by Jude.... This PDF pattern requires legal size paper (8.5 x 14 ) or A4 size paper (8.27 x 11.69, 210mm x 297mm). It will not print on standard letter. Patterns containing larger pieces will need to be taped together before cutting out the fabric. Be advised that this document needs to be printed to it s original scale. Please ensure that the printing options below are not selected. Do Not: Rotate and Center, Fit to Page, Reduce to Fit or adjust the scale of this document. Refer to the scale marker below to ensure that this copy is printed at the correct scale. This PDF pattern is not licensed for commercial use and may not be shared, duplicated or distributed Designs by Jude, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use. 1 or 25.4mm 1 or 25.4mm

2 Spring Time Stroll for Ellowynel Designed by Gary Fletcher $ , All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

3 Spring Time Stroll for Ellowyne Basic Instructions You will get the most professional results by following a few recommendations. Use a ¼ seam allowance unless noted otherwise on the pattern piece or instructions. This seam allowance is already included in the dimensions of the pattern. Press the garment as you work through each step. Press seams open where applicable. In un-lined garments, finish raw edges with an over-lock or zigzag stitch. Fabric and Notions Jacket: Lining: Pants: Notions: Sewing Directions Pants Note that RST = Right Sides Together and WST = Wrong Sides Together. Suiting, wool and wool blends Batiste and lightweight cottons. Broadcloth, lightweight cottons, khakis. 5ct. 4/0 snap set, 9ct. 3/16 buttons, matching thread, matching or contrasting thread for topstitching pants and pockets is optional. 1. RST sew darts in pants back. Press darts to one side. RST, fold top raw of pants front between notches, matching dots together to create a pleat. Following sewing lines on pattern, sew from top raw edge of pants, stopping at dot. Press pleat from wrong side, toward inside edge of pants. Stay stitch pleat along top raw edge of pants. 2. RST, matching notches, sew pants pocket to pants front along curved edge only, using a 1/8 seam allowance. Fold pocket so that wrong side of pocket is facing wrong side of pants front. Press curved edge smooth. Top stitch approx. 1/16 from edge of pocket. 3. WST, matching notches, sew pants pocket facing to pants pocket along inside and bottom edge only, using a 1/8 seam allowance. Stay stitch top raw edge of pants pocket facing to top raw edge of pants front. 4. RST, matching notch, sew pants front together along raw edge of crotch. Clip curves and press seam allowance to one side. From right side of pants front, top stitch along crotch seam approx. 1/16 from seam. 5. WST, fold all edges of pant cargo pocket under ¼ and hard press. Hem top folded edge of pocket by top stitching approx. 3/16 from folded edge. Using markings on pants front pattern as a guide, secure pants cargo pocket to pants by top stitching approx. 1/16 around side and bottom folded edges. 6. WST, fold side and bottom edges of pant cargo flap under 1/14 and hard press. From right side of flap, top stitch approx. 1/16 from folded edge along sides and bottom. With right side of pocket flap facing right side of pants, but raw edge of flap against top folded edge of pants cargo pocket. Secure flap to pants by sewing approx. 3/16 from raw edge. Fold flap over with wrong side of flap facing right side of pocket. Hard press. Secure 1 button to each flap by sewing through all layers of flap, pocket and pants. 7. RST, matching notches, sew pants back to pants front along side raw edges. Press seam allowance to one side and hard press. From right side of pants, top stitch along side seams approx. 1/16 from seam. 8. WST, fold bottom raw hem edge of pants under approx. ½ and hard press. Unfold. 9. RST, matching dots, sew pants backs together along raw curved edge, stopping at dot. Clip curve and press seam allowance and back mock fly to one side. Cut a strip of fabric on the bias approx. ¾ wide and approx. 8 long. RST, sew raw edge of bias strip

4 to raw top edge of pants. Fold bias strip over seam so that wrong side of bias strip is facing wrong side of pants. Top stitch along folded waist edge approx. ¼ from fold. Trim bias tape so that there is no excess extending beyond raw edge of mock fly. Mark placement and secure two snap sets to mock fly so that snap sets are not visible when the mock fly is snapped closed. 10. RST, matching notches, sew pants back to pants front along raw edge of inseam. Clip inseam at crotch and turn pants right side out. 11. Refold bottom hem edge of pants. From right side of pants hem pants by top stitching along folded edge approx. 3/8. Fit pants to doll. Jacket 12. WST, fold all edges of jacket pocket under ¼ and hard press. Hem top folded edge of pocket by top stitching approx. 1/8 from folded edge. Using markings on jacket front pattern as a guide, secure jacket pocket to jacket front by top stitching approx. 1/16 around side and bottom folded edges. 13. WST, fold side and bottom edges of jacket pocket flap under 1/14 and hard press. From right side of flap, top stitch approx. 1/16 from folded edge along sides and bottom. With right side of pocket flap facing right side of jacket, butt raw edge of flap against top folded edge of jacket pocket. Secure flap to jacket by sewing approx. 1/8 from raw edge. Fold flap over with wrong side of flap facing right side of pocket. Hard press. Secure 1 button to each flap by sewing through all layers of flap, pocket and jacket. 14. RST, using stitching lines on jacket back as a guide, sew between each dot near jacket back center to create a pleat. Press pleat to one side. This will create a mock vent and will also provide a perfect fit for the waistline of jacket. Repeat this step for lining. 15. RST, matching notch, sew jacket front to jacket back along raw shoulder edge. Press seam allowance open. Repeat this step for lining. 16. RST, matching notches, sew jacket front to jacket back along side raw edges. Repeat for lining. 17. WST, fold bottom raw hem edge of each sleeve under approx. ½ as indicated on pattern marking. Hard press and unfold. Ease sleeve cap between dots, approx. 1/8 from curved raw edge. RST, fold sleeve in half matching notch and sew along side raw edge. Refold hem edge of sleeve and secure raw edge using waxed thread and a blind hem stitch. This will make it easier to secure sleeve lining during a later step. Repeat this step for sleeve lining. 18. Sewing in the round, match notch in sleeve cap to jacket shoulder seam and sew raw edges of sleeve to raw edges of jacket armhole opening. It is recommended that you perform this step with waxed thread and needle. Use short and consistent stitches to achieve the most professional results. Repeat this step for lining. 19. RST, place jacket lining over jacket and sew along raw edges of neckline, front center and bottom edge. Leave an opening in jacket back between notches. Trim seam allowance to 1/8 except for opening between notches. 20. Pull jacket and lining through back opening to turn jacket right side out. Wrong side of lining and wrong side of jacket should be facing each other. Using a point turner or long tweezers, turn points and corners. Press neckline, center front and bottom edges of jacket smooth tucking back opening raw edges inside the jacket. Using waxed thread and needle, secure jacket lining to jacket along back opening ensuring lining and stitches are not visible from right side of jacket. Turn jacket wrong side out. WST, secure folded edge of sleeve lining to folded edge of sleeve using waxed thread and needle again ensuring that lining and stitches are not visible from right side of jacket. 21. Turn jacket right side out. Using markings on pattern as a guide, secure 5 buttons to right center front of jacket. 22. Mark placement for 3 snap sets so that jacket closes slightly off center similar to a double-breasted jacket however, there are only one row of buttons. Snaps should be placed in top corner, bottom corner and at the waist line. You are creating an A- Symmetrical fashion element. Ensure that snap sets are not visible front right side of jacket when closures are secured. Fit Jacket to doll.

5 Fold Here Piece Jacket Back Cut 1 on Fold Cut 1 Lining on Fold Piece Pants Cargo Flap Piece Pants Pocket Facing Piece Jacket Pocket Piece Jacket Sleeve Lining Piece Pants Cargo Pocket Piece Jacket Front on Fold Lining Piece Jacket Pocket Flap Piece Pants Pocket 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.

6 Piece Pants Front Piece Pants Back Fold Line Stitch Line Grain Line Notch Dot Snap Seam allowance of 1/4 is already included in the dimensions of the pattern 2007, All RIGHTS RESERVED. Personal use only. Not licensed for commercial use.