OTTOBRE design collection for Spring/Summer 2013

Transcription

1 OTTOBRE design collection for Spring/Summer Copyright STUDIO TUUMAT OY Rovaniemi, FINLAND, March 0 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS Please read the following general instructions before starting your project. How to choose the correct size Adults sizes are chosen either according to the bust/chest measurement (e.g. blouses, jackets, coats) or the hip measurement (pants, skirts). Take the measurements on top of thin underwear and compare them with the size chart. You will find detailed instructions for taking measurements on the next page. How to find the pattern pieces on the pattern sheet An overview of numbered, smallscale pattern pieces and a list of pattern pieces can be found next to the sewing instructions for each design. The appropriate pattern sheet is also stated. On the bottom edge of the pattern sheet, find the number with the correct color for the desired pattern piece and move your finger upward on the sheet until you locate the same number. Trace the pattern on tissue paper, including all the necessary markings (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket placements). The markings are also visible on the small-scale patterns next to the instructions. Make all adjustments to the pattern before ting out the garment pieces. Patterns The patterns include hem allowances, button extensions and facings. When ting out the garment pieces, add seam allowances of approx. cm (depending on the fabric) to each edge of the pattern. For reasons of clarity, some of the pattern markings (e.g. positions for Velcro tapes and buttons) have only been printed on the smallest-size pattern of the design. Copy these on the pattern size of your choice in the corresponding places, measuring the distance from the pattern edge. Large pattern pieces are printed on the pattern sheet in two parts. Combine parts A and B before ting out the fabric. Cutting Lay out the pattern pieces on a double layer of fabric observing the grainlines and foldlines. Draw the seam allowances on the fabric with tailor s chalk. If you only need to a piece out once, observe the pattern markings and either on a fold (e.g. back, col-

2 lar) or from a single layer of fabric (e.g. pocket). The measurements for garment pieces listed under the heading Cut also these pieces (e.g. belt loops, belts) already include seam allowances. When ting out the garment, include allowances for fitting adjustments if necessary. Each design includes specific and detailed ting instructions. Garment sections to be interfaced are shaded in grey in the overview of small-scale pattern pieces. Knitted and woven interfacings are on the grain, while non-woven interfacings may be in any direction as they do not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are generally adding the same amount of seam allowance (approx. cm) as on pieces from the fashion fabric. How ever, a smaller seam allowance may be used on interfacings for heavy-weight fabrics. Materials Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 0 cm. Preshrink the fabric before ting either by pre-washing or by steam pressing. If you choose a different fabric from the one suggested in the magazine, allow for matching up patterns and for ting with nap when calculating the fabric requirement. Choose the interfacing on the basis of the fashion fabric s color, quality, weight and care instructions. Since the quality and stretch of elastics vary, check the elastic lengths before sewing. If a zipper is not available in a desired length, buy a longer zipper and shorten it as shown in the illustration on pattern sheet C. Sewing Read through the instructions before you start sewing. If you wish, baste and try on the garment before sewing. To make sewing easier, the instructions have been written on the basis of techniques used in the clothing industry. The terms inner / outer and left / right refer to the garment when worn. Finish off the construction seams of the garment as you sew, even if the instructions do not specifically mention this. To finish off seams you can either use a serger or a machine zigzag stitch. On knit fabrics, stitch the seams using a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. No separate seam finish is necessary. Seams inside a lined garment do not necessarily have to be finished. Hems (e.g. at the garment s lower edge or sleeve edges) are made by turning under the seam allowance and topstitching close to the edge. The width of the hem and the seam allowance is given in brackets; for example sew hem ( cm + cm) means that the hem allowance is cm and the seam allowance cm. Iron the garment seams as you sew and give the garment a final pressing when it is completed. Practical tips Gathering: Decrease the upper thread tension and increase the stitch length (stitch length...). Sew two rows of gathering stitches 0. cm apart from each other on the right side of the edge to be gathered, placing one row on the seamline and the other within the seam allowance. Leave long thread ends. Gather the fabric by pulling simultaneously on both bobbin threads and spreading the gathers between your fingers evenly over the required length. The gathered edge is stitched in place between the gathering stitches using a regular straight stitch. Easing: Easing stitches are sewn as gathering stitches but the bobbin threads are pulled just enough to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. in set-in sleeve caps). SIZE CHART AND MEASURING WOMEN Height 8 ± cm regular fit Size Bust Hip Waist Outseam length Shoulder width Sleeve length Back width Upper arm circ Back waist length You can find this chart with measurements in inches on ottobredesign.blogspot.fi TAKING THE MEASUREMENTS It is hard to take your own measurements and therefore you need a friend to assist you. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can also see the position of the tape measure at the back. You will need a tape measure, a pen and paper. You can print a measurement chart out from our website at You will also need two fixed tapes, one round the waist and the other round the neck. You can make the tapes from a cm wide strip of cotton fabric by folding and pressing it in three and by ting it into required lengths. Place the waistline tape exactly horizontally round your waist and secure it firmly with a safety pin. Place the other tape round your neck so that you can easily slide your finger The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and articles in this magazine are protected under international copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commercial use of the material and manufacture under license is only possible under a written agreement with the copyright holder. For further information, contact us in writing, address: Studio Tuumat Oy, PL, FI-90 Rovaniemi, Finland. OTTOBRE design or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compensate for possible financial losses resulting from misprints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in the instructions. Copyright Studio Tuumat Oy, Rovaniemi, Finland between the tape and your neck. The tape will thus be set at the base of your neck. For taking the measurements, you should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging free at the sides. The measurements are taken on top of underwear (panties and a lightweight camisole or a bra) close to the body, yet not too tight. Height Stand up with your back and heels against a wall and let your assistant make a mark on the wall at the top of your head, using a straight angle (e.g. a book). Your height is the distance measured from the floor to the marking. Bust Measure horizontally round the body with the tape measure running under the arms across the full bustline and across the shoulder blades. Waist Measure round the waist without the fixed waistline tape. Hip Measure horizontally round the seat (usually the fullest part of the hip). Outseam length Measure the distance from the waistline to the floor (measure from the lower edge of the waistline tape). Shoulder width Measure the distance from the base of the neck to the point of the shoulder. Sleeve length Measure from the point of the shoulder to the wrist, with the tape measure running over the elbow. Take the measurement with the arm slightly bent. Back waist length Measure from the base of the neck to the waist, to the lower edge of the fixed waistline tape. The measurements in the size chart are taken on the body. The patterns include the necessary allowances for ease of movement. The patterns in the magazine have been designed for a person with a height of -7 cm. If you are considerably shorter or taller, make the necessary alterations to the patterns before ting the garment pieces out. Points to be checked are the centerback length of a blouse or top as well as the sleeve and leg length.

3 . Matisse jersey dress Pages, 89cm cm printed viscose single jersey (CV/EL), stretch/recovery 0% cm clear elastic tape, Framilon, width 8 mm Cut garment pieces as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neckline. Cut. cm wide binding strip from single jersey for finishing neckline. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the binding, the binding strip in the width that fits the binder. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch sleeve-edge hems and bottom hem with twin needle on regular sewing machine or with serger coverstitch. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut two pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing shoulder seams (measure required length of tape on pattern piece for bodice back and add seam allowances). Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to right side of shoulder seam allowances on bodice back (on finished garment, tapes will be concealed between seam allowances). Gathering skirt panels: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for gathering top edges of skirt panels as follows: Measure required lengths of tape on bottom edges of pattern pieces for bodice front and back and add seam allowances. Mark clear elastic tapes and top edges of skirt panels into quarters. Stitch clear elastic tapes to seam allowances on top edges of skirt panels, placing them to right side and stretching them slightly as you sew (on finished garment, tape will be concealed between seam allowances). Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam. Fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges of sleeves. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch skirt panels to bodice front and bodice back. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem. bodice front bodice back sleeve skirt panel + PATTERN SHEET A red. Summer Basic viscose top Pages 9, A B 0cm cm viscose single jersey (CV/EL), stretch/recovery 0% - 0 cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Do not add seam allowances to neckline and armholes. Cut. cm wide binding strips from single jersey for finishing neckline and armholes. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. Cut also cm wide strip across entire width of knit for trim on design B. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Design B: Fold mm deep pleats on trim strip, spacing them approx. cm apart. Pin and baste trim strip around neckline on front panel as shown in design sketch, placing both ends of strip within shoulder seam allowance. Stitch trim in place with straight stitch along the center of strip. Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut two pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing shoulder seams (measure required length of tape on pattern piece for back and add seam allowances). Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to right side of shoulder seam allowances on back panel (on finished garment, tapes will be concealed between seam allowances). Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam, fold seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. front back PATTERN SHEET A blue Finish armholes with binding. Stitch side seams, fold side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across armhole bindings. Fold up and press bottom hem and stitch it with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Framilon & Vlieseline and lots of fabulous fabrics: OTTOBRE shop shop.roi@ottobre.fi

4 . Buttondown sleeveless blouse Pages 9, 77cm Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern piece for armhole facing includes seam allowances. Cut armhole facings on the bias cm flock-printed cotton voile (CO), width cm, or cm silk satin (SE), width cm - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - eight small pearl buttons, ø mm serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for front facings, outer collar stand and upper collar and fuse them in place. See areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns. Joining: Turn front facings to wrong side as marked on pattern and press folds. Pin facings in position and stitch them to front panels close to edge. Stitch bust darts on front panels. Stitch hem at opening edge of pocket. Turn and press seam allowances on other pocket edges to wrong side. Pin and stitch pocket to left front panel as marked on pattern. Pin front and back panels to shoulder yoke, right sides together. Stitch shoulder seams and yoke seams, fold seam allowances toward shoulder yoke and topstitch seams. Side seams, armholes and bottom hem: Stitch side seams. Finish armholes with facing, following instructions for design no. 7. Stitch narrow hem (7 mm + 7 mm) at garment s bottom edge. Collar: Construct collar following instructions for design no. 7. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on collar stand and front edges as marked on pattern. 7 front shoulder yoke back collar stand collar pocket 7 armhole facing* PATTERN SHEET A orange. Nifty and Neat pencil skirt Pages,, B A cm solid-color linen-blend fabric (LI/PES), width cm, for design A or cm printed and cm solid-color viscose/cotton fabric (CV/CO/EL), width 0 cm, for design B cm viscose lining fabric (CV), width cm - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - invisible zipper, length 0 cm - 0 cm grosgrain ribbon, width mm, for hanging loops 8cm Shell Lining skirt front skirt back waistband PATTERN SHEET A black Choose the pattern size according to your hip measurement and adjust the length of the waistband and the depth of the waist darts to match your waist measurements. Shell: Cut skirt panels and waistband from fashion fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Transfer pattern markings for gathering to waist edges of skirt panels. Note that waistband for design B is from solid-color fabric. Lining: Cut skirt panels from lining fabric. Note that bottom hem of lining is along pattern lines marking foldlines of shell. Transfer pattern markings for darts to waist edges of lining panels. serger or zigzag stitch. Stabilizing: Cut interfacing for waistband and fuse it in place. Fold waistband in half lengthwise and press. Transfer pattern markings for center-front point and side seams to wrong side of waistband using tailor s chalk. Joining shell: Sew gathering stitches along waist edges of skirt panels as marked on pattern and gather edges to fit waistband. Pin skirt front and back panels right sides together and stitch and finish side seams. Fold side seam allowances toward back panels. Pin and stitch one edge of waistband to skirt s waist, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward waistband and press seam gently. Finish raw center-back edges and bottomhem edge. Open zipper. Pin and stitch left zipper tape to left center-back edge, right sides together, aligning top end of zipper coil with foldline on waistband. Use invisible zipper foot for stitching. Stitch right zipper tape in place in the same way. Stitch center-back seam from bottom of zipper placket to bottom hem and press seam open. Joining lining: Stitch darts at waist edges of skirt panels as marked on pattern. Pin skirt front and back panels right sides together and stitch and finish side seams. Cut grosgrain ribbon in half. Fold pieces of ribbon into loops and machine-baste ends of loops to waist edge of lining skirt, placing them on right side at side seams. Finish raw center-back edges of lining. Pin and stitch free edge of waistband to waist edge of lining, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward waistband and press seam gently. Place shell and lining right sides together. Open zipper. Pin and stitch left zipperplacket edge of lining to placket edge of shell, right sides together and with zipper in between. Place stitching mm away from previous stitching line on shell and stop stitching cm before notch for placket on lining. Repeat for the other placket edge. The bottom of the zipper placket on the lining is not attached to the shell in order to allow ease for sitting. Stitch center-back seam on lining from notch for zipper placket to bottom hem. Finishing: Turn skirt right side out and pin waistband in position. Baste bottom edges of waistband together carefully and stitch shell and lining together by stitchingin-the-ditch along waist seamline. Fold up and press bottom hem of shell and stitch it by hand with blind hemming-stitch. Stitch hem ( cm + cm) at bottom edge of lining.

5 . Sleek and Modern shorts and pants Pages, 9,, 8-9 (+A) pants front (+A) pants back pocket piece +* waistband fly shield PATTERN SHEET A green 90-0cm a a A A b b c c - stretch cotton-blend fabric (CO/EL), stretch 8-0% for shorts (a): cm for cropped pants (b): cm for ankle-length pants (c): cm - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - two metal zippers for pockets, length cm - pants zipper, length cm - snap fastener, ø mm (- cm matching cotton fabric for outer pocket pieces) ABOUT PATTERN You can make shorts (a), cropped pants (b) or ankle-length pants (c) with this pattern. The leg lengths have been marked on the pattern. Join pattern pieces + A and + A before ting. Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also cm x 7 cm strip for belt loops. *If your fabric is bulky, outer pocket pieces from lighter-weight cotton fabric. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edges and seamlines unless otherwise instructed. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for waistband and for areas of pocket openings on pants fronts and fuse them in place (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Zipper pockets: Transfer markings for pocket openings to pants fronts and to wrong side of outer pocket pieces. Pin outer pocket piece to pants front right sides together and stitch around pocket opening. Slash pocket opening as marked on pattern. Push outer pocket piece through opening to wrong side and press edges of pocket opening thoroughly. Pin zipper under pocket opening to wrong side of pants front and stitch it in place from right side close to edge of pocket opening. Pin inner pocket piece to outer pocket piece right sides together and stitch curved edges of pocket pieces together. Finish seam allowances together. Flip top corner of pants front out of the way and pin and stitch seam allowances on edge of pocket opening closest to side seam to inner pocket piece. Machinebaste top edges of pocket pieces to waist seam allowances and their side edges to side seam allowances. Stitch rows of reinforcing stitching along both ends of pocket opening. Joining: Stitch darts on pants backs. Pin pants fronts and backs right sides together and stitch leg inseams. Finish raw edges of crotch seam allowances. Apply zipper to placket, following illustrated instructions for fly-front zipper on p.. Stitch side seams. Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of belt loop strip. Fold and press strip in three lengthwise to a width of 0 mm, with finished edge on top. Stitch two parallel rows topstitching in the middle of strip. Cut strip into six equal-length pieces. Pin one end of each belt loop to pants waist right sides together as shown in design sketch and stitch belt loops in place both within waist seam allowance and 0 mm away from outer edge of seam allowance. Waistband: Fold waistband in half as marked on pattern and press. Stitch bottom edge of non-interfaced half of waistband to pants waist, with its right side facing wrong side of waist edge. Fold waistband right sides together at pants front and stitch its ends. Fold waistband right way up, turn seam allowance on its interfaced edge under, and pin and stitch turned-under edge to right side of waist seam close to edge. Stitch free ends of belt loops to top edge of waistband. Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch hems (- cm) at bottom edges of legs. Attach snap fastener to pants waist.. Curvy and Smart shorts and pants Pages, 9,, 8-9 DESIGN SKETCH and SMALL-SCALE PATTERNS: See design no.. - stretch cotton-blend fabric (CO/EL), stretch 8-0% for shorts (a): cm for cropped pants (b): --- cm for ankle-length pants (c): cm - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - two metal zippers for pockets, length cm - pants zipper, length -- - cm - snap fastener, ø mm (- cm matching cotton fabric for outer pocket pieces) (+A) pants front (+A) pants back pocket piece +* waistband fly shield PATTERN SHEET B green Join pattern pieces + A and + A before ting. Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also cm x 7 cm strip for belt loops. *If your fabric is bulky, outer pocket pieces from lighter-weight cotton fabric. Construct pants following instructions for design no.. 7. Fancy Flowers viscose dress Page cm lightweight printed viscose (CV) - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - five buttons, ø mm - cm (sizes -) or 8 cm (sizes -) elastic, width mm Join pattern pieces + A and + A before ting. Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. As the fabric has a printed border on each selvage, the garment pieces are on the crosswise grain. *Pattern piece for armhole facing includes seam allowances. Cut armhole facings on the bias. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for outer collar stand, upper collar and button bands and fuse them in place. Cut interfacing for seam allowance area of front placket and fuse it in place. See areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns. Button bands: Slash placket opening on front panel as marked on pattern. Clip seam allowances diagonally to bottom corners of placket. Press folds on button bands as marked on pattern. >>>

6 9cm Pin non-interfaced edges of button bands to wrong side of placket edges and stitch them in place, stopping stitching on each side at end of clip. Fold each button band wrong sides together as marked on pattern and topstitch along folded edges. Turn seam allowances on open edges of button bands to wrong side and pin edges to placket edges carefully and stitch them in place (top and bottom edges of button bands are left open). Fold small inverted pleat at bottom of placket as marked on pattern and machine-baste it in position. Overlap button bands (with right button band on top), pin them in position and machine-baste their bottom edges together. Pin and stitch triangle at bottom of placket to button bands right sides together and finish seam allowances together. Joining: Pin elastic to wrong side of back panel as marked on pattern and stitch it in place with zigzag stitch, stretching it as you sew. Sew gathering stitches along shoulder edges of front panel and along top edge of back panel and gather edges to fit shoulder yoke. Pin outer shoulder yoke to top edge of back panel right sides together and pin inner shoulder yoke to top edge of back panel with its right side facing wrong side of back panel. Stitch yoke seam. Fold seam allowances toward yoke and topstitch yoke seam. Stitch shoulder edges of front panel to shoulder edges of shoulder yoke in the same way (roll front panel up into a thin roll, starting from bottom hem, to make it easier to place it between yoke panels). Side seams, armholes and bottom hem: Stitch side seams. Stitch ends of each armhole facing together to form circles. Finish armholes with facing: Pin and stitch facing to armhole right sides together. Trim seam allowances slightly and clip them along curves. Understitch armhole seam allowances to facing. Fold entire facing to wrong side of garment. Turn seam allowance on free edge of facing under, pin facing to armhole and stitch it in place close to turned-under edge. Stitch narrow hem (7 mm + 7 mm) at garment s bottom edge. Collar: Pin collar pieces right sides together and stitch their ends and outer edges together. Trim corners, press seams open and turn collar right side out. Press collar flat and topstitch its outer edges. Machine-baste open edges of collar together. Turn and press seam allowance on bottom edge of inner collar stand to wrong side and machine-baste along edge using presser-foot edge as guide. Pin collar between collar stand pieces (with inner collar stand and upper collar right sides together) and stitch along edges of collar stand through all layers. Turn collar stand right side out. Pin and stitch bottom edge of outer collar stand to garment s neckline, right sides together. Turn all neckline seam allowances into collar stand, pin edge of inner collar stand to neckline carefully and stitch. Topstitch around collar stand close to edge. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on collar stand and button bands as marked on pattern. A 7 A +A front shoulder yoke +A back collar stand + collar + button band 7 armhole facing* PATTERN SHEET B blue 8. Color-blocked linen dress Pages, 9cm bodice front bodice back sleeve shaped facing* skirt front skirt back PATTERN SHEET C red cm natural linen-color and cm red crinkled linen-blend fabric (LI/PES) - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78-0 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline Formband - invisible zipper, length cm Cut skirt front and skirt backs from natural linen-color fabric and other garment pieces from red fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Cut piece of red fabric for shaped facing and press it smooth before ting shaped facing out from it. Take note of grainline on pattern piece for shaped facing. serger or zigzag stitch. Press seams gently so that the fabric retains its crinkled texture. Preparation: Cut interfacing for shaped facing and fuse it in place. Finish raw outer edge of shaped facing. Cut piece of stay tape for stabilizing front neckline (measure required length of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances). Fuse stay tape to wrong side of front neckline, placing it just outside neckline seam allowance ( a notch on tape at front corner in order to make it turn nicely around the corner). If you cannot use stay tape, you can stabilize the neckline with an approx. cm wide strip of interfacing in a non-stretch direction. Joining: Stitch bust darts on bodice front and shoulder darts on bodice backs as marked on pattern. Stitch shoulder seams. Finish raw waist edges of bodice front and bodice backs as well as of skirt front and skirt backs. Stitch skirt front to bodice front and skirt backs to bodice backs. Press seams open gently. Stitch side seams. Stitch darts on sleeves as marked on pattern. Stitch underarm seams of sleeves. Sew rows ease-stitching along sleeve caps as marked on pattern and pull up bobbin threads to shape sleeve caps. Try garment on. Insert sleeves into armholes and stitch them in place. Zipper and neckline: Open zipper. Stitch left zipper tape to garment s left center-back edge right sides together, using invisible zipper foot. Stitch the other zipper tape in place in the same way. Pin and stitch center-back edges of shaped facing to edges of zipper placket, right sides together and with zipper in between. Place stitching mm away from stitching line that attaches zipper. Pin shaped facing to garment s neckline right sides together and stitch it to neckline (fold all centerback seam allowances onto shaped facing as you stitch across them). Clip seam allowances along curves and clip to stitching line at center-front corner. Understitch neckline seam allowances to shaped facing. Turn neckline right side out and press it gently. Close zipper and stitch centerback seam from notch for zipper placket to bottom hem. Secure outer edge of shaped facing to shoulder seam allowances with a few hand stitches. Finishing: Finish raw bottom-hem edge and bottom edges of sleeves. Fold up and press bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems and stitch them either with machine straight stitch or by hand with blind hemming-stitch.

7 9. Triangle cap-sleeve blouse Pages, cm cm white and cm lemon-yellow sheer viscose/silk fabric (CMD/PA/SE) - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - seven small pearl buttons, ø mm a b front right front panel a* right front panel b left front panel back collar stand collar button band PATTERN SHEET C blue Cut left front panel with fabric right side up and right front panels with fabric wrong side up. Trace separate pattern pieces for right front panel a and right front panel b. Cut right front panel a, collar, collar stand and button bands from yellow fabric and other garment pieces from white fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Take note of grainline on pattern piece for right front panel a. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline using thread that matches color of fabric. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for outer collar stand, upper collar and button bands and fuse them in place. See areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns. Joining: Pin front panels a and b right sides together and stitch diagonal panel seam. Fold seam allowances toward front panel a and topstitch seam. Stitch bust darts on front panels and shoulder darts on back panel. Pin front panels to back panel right sides together and stitch shoulder seams. Stitch narrow hems ( mm + mm) at armholes. Stitch side seams. Fold side seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across armhole hems. Press two folds on each button band as marked on pattern. Pin and stitch right side of non-interfaced edge of button band to wrong side of front panel. Fold button band right way up and pin and stitch its free edge to front panel (finished width of button band should be. cm). Topstitch outer edges of button bands. Collar: Construct collar following instructions for design no. 7. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on collar stand and button bands as marked on pattern. Fold up and stitch narrow hem at garment s bottom edge. 0. Charlie pleated pants Pages 7, 0cm cm silk/linen fabric (SE/LI), width 0 cm, OR cm fabric, width cm - 0 cm lightweight cotton fabric for pocket facings and waistband binding - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - pants zipper, length cm - button, ø 8 mm A A +A pants front +A pants back pocket facing pocket piece waistband fly shield PATTERN SHEET C orange Join pattern pieces + A and + A before ting. Cut pocket facings from lightweight cotton fabric and other garment pieces from fashion fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also cm x 7 cm strip from fashion fabric for belt loops. Cut cm wide binding strip on the bias from cotton fabric for finishing inside edge of waistband. serger or zigzag stitch. Preparation: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them in place. Stitch darts on pants backs. Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket facings to edges of pocket openings, right sides together. Understitch seam allowances to pocket facings close to seamline. Fold pocket facings to wrong side and topstitch edges of pocket openings using presser-foot edge as guide. Pin pocket pieces to pocket facings, right sides together, and stitch bottom of each pocket. Fold and machine-baste pleats at waist edges of pants fronts as marked on pattern. Machine-baste edges of pockets to waist and side seam allowances. Joining: Pin pants fronts and backs right sides together and stitch leg inseams. Finish raw crotch edges and edges of zipper placket. Stitch crotch seam as far as notch for zipper placket. Apply zipper to placket, following illustrated instructions for fly-front zipper on p.. Stitch side seams. Belt loops: Follow instructions for design no.. Waistband: Finish edge of non-interfaced half of waistband with bias binding as follows: Pin bias binding to waistband right sides together and stitch it in place with mm seam allowance. Note that bias binding starts and ends at centerfront mark. Wrap bias binding over waistband edge to wrong side (binding is thus folded in three) and stitch it in place from right side of waistband by stitching-inthe-ditch along seamline. Fold waistband in half as marked on pattern and press. Stitch interfaced half of waistband to pants waist, right sides together. Fold waistband right sides together at pants front and stitch its ends. Turn ends of waistband right side out. Pin free edge of waistband to waist seam and stitch it place from right side of pants by stitching-in-the-ditch along waist seamline. Stitch free ends of belt loops to top edge of waistband. Finishing: Stitch buttonhole and sew button on waistband as marked on pattern. Finish raw bottom edges of legs. Fold up, press, pin and stitch hems at bottom edges of legs as marked on pattern.

8 . Biker Style linen jacket Pages 7, Linen a a b c d e 8 9 Lining fabric b 7 0 cm Linen front right front panel left front panel a left front panel b a facing side front panel shoulder yoke + back upper panel c waist panel d lower panel e side back panel sleeve 7 pocket piece +* 8 front hem band + 9 back hem band 0 zipper gusset for sleeve Lining fabric b+ front + back sleeve PATTERN SHEET D black cm coarse, fairly loose-woven linen fabric (LI), width 0 cm cm viscose lining fabric (CV), width cm - cm matching cotton fabric for outer pocket pieces - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - m fusible stay tape, Vlieseline Formband - metal-tooth open-end zipper (width of teeth mm), length 0 cm (sizes -0) or length cm (sizes -) - four metal-tooth closed-end zippers (width of teeth mm), length cm, for sleeves and pockets - three snap fasteners, ø mm, Prym Anorak Left and right on the pattern and in the instructions refer to the garment when worn. Preshrink the fabrics by washing them and steam them thoroughly before ting. Shell: Trace separate patterns for left and right front panels. Cut up pattern for left front panel into two separate pattern pieces (a + b). Cut up pattern for back into three separate pattern pieces (c + d + e). Cut facings using pattern piece for left front panel a. Cut outer pocket pieces from cotton fabric* and other garment pieces from linen fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Lining: Trace pattern pieces for lining observing markings on small-scale patterns. Join pattern pieces for left front panel b and front side panel (b + ) into a single pattern piece for lining front. Join pattern pieces for back and side back panel ( + ) into a single pattern piece for lining back. Draw darts on pattern pieces for lining front and back observing markings on small-scale patterns. Cut lining pieces from lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Take note of the following when ting out the lining pieces: - back panel on fabric fold, placing center-back edge of pattern piece mm away from fabric fold (= ease pleat on back panel) - bottom edges of front and back panels with. seam allowance (= cm for actual seam allowance and. cm for vertical ease) - bottom edges of sleeves along pattern foldline (= this will leave cm allowance for vertical ease) - add extra seam allowance of mm (for wearing ease) to side seam edges of front and back panels and to underarm edges of sleeves when approaching armhole edges (see small-scale patterns) with straight stitch. Topstitch seams and edges using presser-foot edge as guide unless otherwise instructed. No seam finish is necessary as the garment is fully lined. Stabilizing: Experiment with fusing interfacing on a scrap of fabric first. Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on smallscale patterns and fuse them to corresponding shell pieces (note that interfacing is only applied to outer hem band pieces and outer shoulder yoke). If your fabric is soft, fuse interfacing to entire shell front panels. In order to preserve the casual look of linen, we only stabilized the front edges and zipper placket edges on the front panels of the sample garment by fusing stay tape to them (see edges shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Shell front: Open zipper. Stitch left zipper tape to panel seam edge of left front panel b, right sides together, placing top end of zipper teeth at pattern marking. Pin front panels a and b right sides together and stitch panel seam. Fold seam allowances toward front panel b and topstitch seam. Machine-baste right zipper tape to front edge of right front panel, right sides together, placing top end of zipper teeth at top corner of front panel (also, close zipper to make sure that zipper halves are aligned). Pockets: Left and right in the instructions refer to the garment pieces laid out in front of you on a table. Stitch guide stitching for pocket opening on left sidefront panel as marked on pattern. Clip to stitching at corners of pocket opening. Pin left zipper tape to seam allowance at pocket opening, right sides together (zipper opens from top to bottom), and stitch zipper in place along guide stitching (note that stitching line turns 90 at each end of pocket opening). Pin straight edge of inner pocket piece to seam allowance at pocket opening, right sides together and with zipper in between, and stitch it in place along vertical portion of previous stitching. Topstitch left edge (but not ends) of pocket opening close to edge from right side. Pin front panel to side front panel right sides together and stitch panel seam, catching right zipper tape in stitching along pocket opening (close zipper and flip inner pocket piece out of the way as you sew). Pin and stitch straight edge of outer pocket piece to edge of pocket opening on front panel, right sides together and with right zipper tape in between, placing stitching mm away from panel-seam stitching line. Fold panel-seam seam allowances toward front panel and topstitch seam in two parts: first from armhole to top end of pocket opening and then from bottom end of pocket opening to bottom hem (flip pocket-piece seam allowances out of the way as you topstitch). Topstitch also edge of pocket opening using presserfoot edge as guide. Pin and stitch pocket pieces together. Stitch horizontal rows of reinforcing stitching at top and bottom ends of pocket opening from right side. Construct right pocket as mirror image. Shell back: Pin and stitch upper and lower back panels to waist panel, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward waist panel and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch side back panels to back panel, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward side back panels and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch shoulder yoke to front and back panels, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward yoke and topstitch seams. Stitch side seams and press them open. Joining lining: Stitch darts on lining fronts and lining back. Pin and stitch facings to front panels, right sides together (fold extra length on each lining front panel into pleat at front edge of panel, close to its bottom edge). Press seam allowances toward lining panels. Stitch ease pleat at center-back on lining back panel for cm down from neckline and for cm up from bottom hem. Press pleat flat as marked on pattern. Pin and stitch shoulder yoke to front and back panels, fold seam allowances toward lining panels and topstitch seams close to seamline. Stitch side seams of lining and press them open. Joining shell and lining: Pin shell and lining right sides together and stitch their necklines and front edges together, with zipper in between. Clip seam allowances along curves and trim them across corners. Understitch neckline seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Turn garment right side out, press front edges and neckline thoroughly and topstitch them using presser-foot edge as guide. Sleeves: Fold up and press hems at bottom edges of shell sleeves as marked on pattern. Fold, press and stitch hems on zipper gussets as marked on pattern. Open zipper. Pin and machine-baste zipper tapes to right side of seam allowances on outer edges of gusset, turning seam allowances at open ends of zipper tapes diagonally under. >>>

9 Stitch guide stitching for zipper placket on each shell sleeve, using pattern piece for sleeve as template for stitching. Slash placket opening and clip diagonally to stitching at corners. Pin and stitch left zipper tape to left edge of placket opening, right sides together, aligning open end of zipper with sleeve-edge foldline. Stitch right zipper tape in place in the same way. Stitch triangle formed at the top of placket to end of zipper, working from wrong side. Stitch bottom edges of shell and lining sleeves right sides together. Slash placket openings on lining sleeves. Place placket edges of shell and lining sleeves right sides together and stitch placket edges of lining to placket edges of shell. Stitch top end of lining placket to zipper, working from wrong side. Turn placket right side out, press its edges and topstitch them close to edge. Stitch horizontal row of reinforcing stitching to top end of placket, working from right side. Pin and stitch underarm seams of sleeves right sides together, starting stitching from sleeve-edge foldline and stitching seam on shell sleeve first and then seam on lining sleeve. Press underarm seam allowances toward back of sleeve. Secure bottom edge of lining sleeve to shell sleeve with a few hand-stitches sewn at underarm seam. Turn sleeves right way out. Sew rows of ease-stitching along sleeve caps of both shell sleeves and lining sleeves as marked on pattern. Pull up bobbin threads of ease-stitching to shape sleeve caps. Shape shell sleeve caps by steaming. Pin and stitch lining sleeves to armholes of lining, right sides together. Pin and stitch shell sleeves to armholes of shell, right sides together. Secure armholes of shell and lining together with a few hand stitches sewn at side seams. Hem band: Pin and machine-baste bottom-hem edges of shell and lining together. Pin outer (interfaced) hem-band pieces together and stitch side seams. Stitch side seams of inner half of hem band in the same way. Press side seams of both hem band halves open. Pin outer and inner hem bands right sides together and stitch their bottom edges together. Understitch seam allowances to inner hem band close to seamline. Stitch ends of hem band right sides together. Trim corners, turn hem band right side out and press. Pin and stitch edge of inner hem band to garment s bottom edge, right sides together on lining side. Turn seam allowance on edge of outer hem band to wrong side, pin edge carefully to garment s bottom edge and stitch it in place close to edge. Topstitch front edges and bottom edge of hem band using presser-foot edge as guide. Finishing: Attach two snap fasteners to hem band as marked on pattern. Attach stud half of snap fastener to top corner of left front panel and its counterpart to right front panel.. Dark Chocolate jersey blazer Page 9 cm cm heavyweight viscose jersey (CV/EL), width 0 cm, weight 0 g/m (0 g per linear meter) - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78 - four buttons, ø 0 mm Cut garment pieces from jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching using presser-foot edge as guide. Stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for shaped facings and fuse them in place. Pockets: Fold, press and stitch hems at opening edges of pockets as marked on pattern. Sew rows of ease-stitching within seam allowances on curved pocket edges. Make cardboard template with pattern piece for pocket. Lay pocket template on wrong side of pocket and pull up bobbin threads of ease-stitching to turn pocket seam allowances over edge of template to wrong side of pocket. Press pocket edges from wrong side. Pin pockets to front hem panels as marked on pattern and stitch them in place using presserfoot edge as guide. Joining: Stitch darts on front and back panels as well as on sleeves. Pin and stitch hem panels to front and back panels, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward front and back panels and topstitch seams. Pin sleeves to front and back panels right sides together and stitch raglan seams. Fold seam allowances toward sleeves and topstitch seams. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up and stitch hems at bottom edges of sleeves. Finish raw outer edges and center-back edges of shaped facings. Pin shaped facings right sides together and stitch centerback seam. Press seam open. Pin and stitch bottom edges of shaped facing to garment's bottom-hem edge right sides together, stitching along bottom-hem foldline. Pin and stitch shaped facing to garment s front edges and neckline, right sides together. Press seams open along straight portions of front edges. Turn bottom-front corners right side out. Fold up, pin and stitch hem at garment s bottom edge. Pin shaped facing in position and topstitch front edges and neckline. Secure outer edge of shaped facing to raglan seam allowances with a few hand stitches. Finishing: Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons to front edges as marked on pattern. 7 front back front hem panel back hem panel sleeve shaped facing 7 pocket PATTERN SHEET C black. Lemon Juice draped bamboo jersey tunic /-8/0-/-/8-0/ Page 8 front and back sleeve PATTERN SHEET D blue cm lightweight bamboo single jersey (CV/EL), stretch/recovery 0% - 0 cm clear elastic tape, width mm, Framilon ABOUT PATTERN Trace the front and back panel from the pattern sheet onto tissue paper folded in half, placing the folded edge of the paper along the center-front/center-back line on the pattern sheet. Open the tissue paper out and draw the left and right side of the pattern observing the markings on the small-scale pattern. Draw also the front neckline on the pattern (the lower line on the pattern). Wash and steam the fabric thoroughly before ting. Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut front and back as one piece on a double fabric folded on crosswise grain. Lay pattern piece for front and back on fabric placing straight portion of one side seam (right side seam on small-scale pattern) on fabric fold. Cut along pattern line marking back neckline first. Flip back portion out of the way and along pattern line marking front neckline. Do not add seam allowances to neckline. >>>

10 Cut sleeves out in the usual way. Cut also. cm wide binding strip from single jersey for finishing neckline. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the binding, the binding strip in the width that fits the binder. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine. Stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p.. Stabilizing shoulder seams: Cut two pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing shoulder seam edges on back panel. Measure required length of tape on pattern and add seam allowances. Machine-baste clear elastic tapes to right side of shoulder seam allowances on back panel (on finished garment, tapes will be concealed between seam allowances). Gathering neckline: Cut two cm pieces of clear elastic tape for gathering front and back necklines. Mark midpoints on clear elastic tapes. Mark center-front and center-back points as well as end points of gathering at necklines. Stitch pieces of clear elastic tape to right side of front and back necklines, placing them between pattern markings. Align markings on tape and neckline and stretch tape as you sew to gather neck edge evenly. Joining: Stitch left shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch right shoulder seam, fold shoulder seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Fold up, press and stitch hems at bottom edges of sleeves. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams (note that left side seam ends at fabric fold). Fold underarm seam allowances to one side and stitch them flat across sleeve-edge hems. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem.. Jewelry dress Pages, - 0 cm well-draping printed polyester (PES), width 0 cm, vertical repeat 00 cm - 0 cm viscose lining fabric (CV), width cm - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 78-0 cm fusible stay tape, Vlieseline Formband - invisible zipper, length cm Shell Lining + front bodice back skirt back PATTERN SHEET C red + 9cm Join pattern pieces + for front. Preshrink the fabrics before ting either by washing or steaming them. Shell: Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces, matching fabric pattern both at side seams and center-back seams. Lining: Cut lining pieces from lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Note that bottom hem of lining is along pattern lines marking bottom-hem foldlines of shell. Cut center-back edges of lining bodice back with mm seam allowance starting from neckline and increase seam allowance to cm toward waist edge (lining will be stitched to center-back edges of shell using cm seam allowance and placing stitching mm away from stitching line that attaches zipper). serger or zigzag stitch. Seam finish is not necessary on neckline, armhole and shoulder seams as the garment is fully lined. Preparation: Cut interfacing for neckline of lining and fuse it in place (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Cut piece of stay tape for stabilizing front neckline of shell (measure required length of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances). Fuse stay tape to wrong side of front neckline, placing it just outside neckline seam allowance ( a notch on tape at front corner in order to make it turn nicely around the corner). If you cannot use stay tape, you can stabilize the neckline with an approx. cm wide strip of interfacing in a non-stretch direction. Joining: Stitch bust darts on front panel and shoulder darts on bodice backs of both shell and lining as marked on pattern. Stitch shoulder seams of both shell and lining. Press seams open. Finish raw waist edges of bodice back and skirt back panels. Pin skirt back panels of shell to bodice backs and stitch waist seams. Press waist seams open gently. Stitch waist seams of lining in the same way. Pin shell and lining right sides together and stitch their armholes together. Clip armhole seam allowances along curves and trim them if necessary. Understitch armhole seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Stitch necklines of shell and lining together, starting and ending stitching cm away from center-back seamline. Clip seam allowances along curves and clip to stitching line at center-front corner. Understitch neckline seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Turn garment right side out by pushing back panels between shoulders of shell and lining toward front panel. Press neckline and armholes gently. Zipper and neckline: Finish raw centerback edges of shell and lining. Open zipper. Stitch left zipper tape to left center-back edge of shell right sides together, using invisible zipper foot. Stitch the other zipper tape in place in the same way. Pin and stitch center-back edges of lining to edges of zipper placket on shell, right sides together and with zipper in between. Place stitching mm away from stitching line that attaches zipper and end stitching approx. cm above notch for zipper placket. Pin and stitch remaining neckline seam on each side of zipper placket, folding all center-back seam allowances onto lining. Turn garment right side out. Close zipper and stitch center-back seam of shell from bottom end of zipper to bottom hem. Stitch center-back seam of lining from notch for zipper placket to bottom hem. Press center-back seams open. The bottom of the zipper placket on the lining is thus not attached to the shell in order to allow ease for sitting. Finishing: Finish raw side-seam edges on both shell and lining. Pin and stitch side seams of both shell and lining right sides together, starting stitching at armhole seam (open armhole seam allowances and align side seams carefully). Stitch side seam of shell first and then side seam of lining. Attach side seams of shell and lining together with French tack sewn at waist seam. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem of shell as marked on pattern. Stitch hem ( cm + cm) at bottom edge of lining.. Modern Couture silk dress Page Shell bodice front skirt front +A back Lining bodice front skirt front +A back Lining, front Shell, front A PATTERN SHEET D green