DILLARD STORE SERVICES, INC.

Transcription

1 INVESTMENTS MINIMUM CONSTRUCTION GUIDELINES Investments Knit Minimum Construction Guidelines...Page 1 Investments Sweater Minimum Construction Guidelines...Page 3 Investments Vests and Jackets Minimum Construction Guidelines...Page 4 Investments Woven Minimum Construction Guidelines...Page 6

2 Investments Knit Construction Standards Knit Tops: General construction seams- chain or over edged All shoulder seams reinforced with quick stretch tape All self back neck tape cut cross grain, unless specified otherwise All hems sewn in the round, unless specified otherwise or blind stitched All hem stitching starts and stops at the back of seam and backstitched no more than 1 All hems are sewn first then vent sewn Topstitching around armhole must finish at underarm Stitch Class 514 STITCH 401 STITCH 406 STITCH 602 STITCH 605 STITCH 103 STITCH Binding at neck and armhole sewn in round unless specified otherwise 401 STITCH Neck binding and neck trim pieces should be sewn in the round with the seam finishing 1 from the back left shoulder seam unless specified otherwise 401 STITCH 406 STITCH 504 STITCH 605 STITCH 602 STITCH All button front closures must have snap/button at bust point All topstitching should stretch with fabric and not break Minimum neck opening to stretch 12 on half without breaking stitches Hanger loops needed on tops with large necklines of 8 ½ neck width or more Convertible sleeves shipped with wearer s left sleeve rolled up, unless determined otherwise by Brand Manager. Knit Bottoms: General Construction Seams 514 STITCH Hems sewn in the round 103 STITCH or blind stitch 406 STITCH 605 STITCH 602 STITCH All hem stitching starts and stops at the back of seam and backstitched no more than 1 All hems are sewn first then vent sew Pull on styles must extend without breaking stitches Sew rises last 514 STITCH Fuse zipper openings unless specified otherwise Bar Tack on inside fly facing should either sit even with top of zipper or no more than ¼ higher than top of zipper; never below top of zipper 304 STITCH Dillard Store Services, Inc. Confidential Page 1 Last updated: 7/19/17

3 General Information: All knit tops and bottoms are alpha sized Preferred care is Machine Wash, Tumble Dry unless test results show otherwise Nap fabrics cut nap up Wrapped thread shanks on all functional buttons unless specified otherwise Bar tack tops of vents/corners of pocket openings, unless specified otherwise Back tacking is reinforced on outside or inside as specified Close/Baste all welt pockets and vents for shipping with 100% cotton DTM thread. The closing stitch for pocket should be 4-6 stitches per inch and start 1 from each end of the pocket when able to do so with no backstitch and using 100% cotton thread All drawstrings must be secured as specified Clean finish ends of drawstring All garments with buttons and/or hardware will have plastic bag with extra button and/or hardware enclosed and attached per placement code or swift tacked to size/accessory label for tops or at left side seam for bottoms QST is used for all hanger loops unless specified otherwise There should not be more than 1/8 excess fabric extending past hem stitching Use lingerie needle when swift tacking hang tag to delicate fabrics Care label should not state Do Not Bleach unless garment has been tested for both chlorine and non-chlorine bleach. Can put Use Non-Chlorine Bleach when needed. Prefer main woven label with woven size label sewn at center back or to wearer s left if back opening and woven care label at left side seam for tops Prefer main woven label with woven accessory label sewn at center back band or to wearer s left if back opening for bottoms Matching Specification: Dominant patterns/stripes should be balanced as specified Match side seams Vertically center fronts and back Pair sleeves Match sleeve at one point to one point of front armhole Pair cuffs, yokes, collars, collar bands Dillard Store Services, Inc. Confidential Page 2 Last updated: 7/19/17

4 Investments Sweater Construction Standards Sweater Tops: Stitch Class General construction seams: knit to shape LINKED Armholes 2-3 links 2 stitches in fully fashioned with marks, with 3/4 cast off at bottom of armhole Shoulder seams with Quick Stretch Tape, when not fully fashioned shoulder LINKED Or cannot be done due to yarn/gauge/stitch type 514 STITCH 504 STITCH Minimal fabric inside tubular join On fine gauges (14gg and greater) catch 1 st loop when linking neckline On fine gauges (14gg and greater) all tubular join seams must be linked at first row of stitches 70D Nylon elastic in starts (sweep and hem openings) unless good recovery due to yarn/plaiting Minimum neck opening to stretch 12 on the half Hanger loops needed on tops with large necklines of 8 ½ neck width or more If floats are visible, cut, snip and tie for cleanliness Sweater Bottoms: General construction seams, knit to shape LINKED 70D Nylon elastic in starts (leg openings) unless good recovery due to yarn/plaiting General Information: All sweater tops and bottoms are alpha sized Preferred care is Machine Wash, Tumble Dry unless test results show otherwise Wrapped thread shanks on all functional buttons unless otherwise specified All garments with buttons will have button bag with extra button enclosed and attached per placement code or swift tacked to size/accessory label for tops/bottoms. All drawstrings must be secured as specified Clean finish ends of drawstring QST is used for all hanger loops unless specified otherwise All seams are linked two stitches in unless it is specified differently in the descriptive sheet. Prefer main woven label with woven accessory label tacked at center back or to wearer s left if back opening for tops and bottoms Matching Specification: Dominant patterns/stripes should be balanced Match side seams Vertically center fronts and back Pair sleeves Match sleeve at one point to one point of front armhole Pair cuffs, yokes, collars, collar bands Dillard Store Services, Inc. Confidential Page 3 Last updated: 7/19/17

5 Investments Construction Standards for Vests and Jackets Fully Lined Vests and Jackets: Stitch Class General construction seams, pressed open Wovens 301 STITCH Knits 401 STITCH French seams, depending on fabrication/styling Wovens 301 STITCH Knits 401 STITCH Clean Finish bottom of facings 301 STITCH Hem allowances on jacket and sleeves should be tacked up at each seam 301 STITCH Vests and jackets with full lining have fold over pleat at center back/fronts Body and sleeve lining attached to hem allowances, with extra allowance in length. All fully lined jackets must have the lining attached to the shell at armhole with extra lining strip and/or chain link, for movement and control. 301 STITCH Shoulder seams should be taped. Wovens 301 STITCH Knits 401 STITCH Armholes should be taped. Wovens 301 STITCH Knits 401 STITCH Back necklines are taped, depending on styling and fabrication. Sleeves set to armhole in the round. All woven jackets must have interfacing in all hems, lapel roll, chest/shoulder piece, and sleeve heads. Shoulder pads and sleeve heads are basted to shell armhole with long stitches. Shoulder pads are tacked at mid shoulder seam. Full front closures should have snap/button at bust point. Stitched buttonholes should be keyhole, unless specified otherwise 304 STITCH Unlined Vests and Jackets: General construction seams, bound seam allowance edge, unless specified otherwise Wovens 301 STITCH Back neck finished with partial back yoke or half moon facing All hems are sewn first then vent sewn General Information: Woven tops are sized, unless style requires alpha sizing. Preferred care is Machine Wash, Tumble Dry unless test results show otherwise Nap fabrics cut nap up Wrapped thread shanks on all buttons, unless specified otherwise Bar tack tops of vents/corners of pocket openings unless specified otherwise May be reinforced on outside or inside Close/Baste all welt pockets and vents for shipping with 100% cotton DTM thread. The closing stitch for pockets should be 4-6 stitches per inch and start 1 from each end of the pocket when able to do so with no backstitch and using 100% cotton thread All drawstrings must be secured as specified Clean finish ends of drawstring All garments with buttons and/or hardware will have plastic button bag with extra button and/or hardware enclosed and attached per placement code or swift tacked to accessory label. There should not be more than 1/8 excess fabric extending past hem stitching Use lingerie needle when swift tacking hang tag to delicate fabrics Care label should not state Do Not Bleach unless garment has been tested for both chlorine and non-chlorine bleach. Can put Use Non-Chlorine Bleach when needed Prefer main woven label with woven accessory label sewn at center back neck/back yoke/facing or to wearer s left if back opening for tops Dillard Store Services, Inc. Confidential Page 4 Last updated: 7/19/17

6 Matching Specification: Dominant patterns/stripes should be balanced as specified Match side seams Vertically center fronts and back Pair sleeves Match sleeve at one point to one point of front armhole Pair cuffs, yokes, collars, collar bands Dillard Store Services, Inc. Confidential Page 5 Last updated: 7/19/17

7 Investments Woven Construction Standards Woven Tops: Stitch Class General construction seams 516 STITCH French seams, depending on fabrication/styling 301 STITCH Hems are all clean finished with either ¼ shirttail or stitched down- 301 STITCH depends on styling Blouses must have snap or button at bust point Shoulder pads are to be self-covered and tacked with dtm thread All back yokes are double unless specified otherwise All facings are to have clean turned edges Sleeves set to armhole in the round Minimum neck opening should be 24 All hem stitching starts and stops at the back of seam and back stitched no more than 1 All hems are sewn in the round, unless specified otherwise. All hems are sewn first then vent sewn Topstitching around armhole must finish at underarm Convertible sleeves shipped with wearer s left sleeve rolled up, unless determined otherwise by brand manager Patch pocket hems/facing are clean turned with block and turned edges Hanger loops needed on tops with large necklines of 8 ½ neck width or more Woven Bottoms: General construction seams Hems have raw edge finished and blind stitch or taped and blindstitched All hem stitching starts and stops at the back and backstitched no more than 1 All hems are sewn in the round, unless specified otherwise All hems are sewn first then vent sewn Trouser press unless specified otherwise Pants and skirts will have self pocket facings that are clean turned and stitched on top QST pocketing Bar tack at end of J stitch Clean turn band at join seams or bind band edges-as specified Fuse zipper openings 516 STITCH 504 STITCH 301 STITCH 103 STITCH 304 STITCH Bar Tack on inside fly facing should either sit even with top of zipper or no more than ¼ higher than top of zipper; never below top of zipper 304 STITCH Keyhole buttonholes Clear button on inside waistband extension Sew rises last Front rise should have tandem stitching unless specified otherwise Bar tack at crotch area where rise and inseam meet if rises do not have topstitching 304 STITCH 516 STITCH 401 STITCH 304 STITCH Dillard Store Services, Inc. Confidential Page 6 Last updated: 7/19/17

8 General Information: All woven tops and bottoms are sized, unless style requires alpha sizing Preferred care is Machine Wash,Tumble Dry unless test results show otherwise QST is used for all hanger loops unless specified otherwise Nap fabrics cut nap up Wrapped thread shanks on all functional buttons, unless specified otherwise Bar tack tops of vents/corners of pocket openings, unless specified otherwise May be reinforced on outside or inside as specified All drawstrings must be secured as specified Clean finish ends of drawstring Close/Baste all welt pockets and vents for shipping with 100% cotton DTM thread. The closing stitch for pocket should be 4-6 stitches per inch and start 1 from each end of the pocket when able to do so with no backstitch and using 100% cotton thread. There should not be more than 1/8 excess fabric extending past hem stitching All garments with buttons and/or hardware will have plastic button bag with extra button and/or hardware enclosed and attached per placement code or swift tacked to accessory label for tops and bottoms. Use lingerie needle when swift tacking hang tag to delicate fabrics. Care label should not state Do Not Bleach unless garment has been tested for both chlorine and non-chlorine bleach. Can put Use Non-Chlorine Bleach when needed. Prefer main woven label with woven accessory label sewn at center back neck/back yoke/facing or to wearer s left if back opening for tops Prefer main woven label with woven accessory label sewn at center back band or to wearer s left if back opening for bottoms Matching Specification: Dominant patterns/stripes should be balanced and matched or paired as specified Match side seams Vertically center fronts and back Pair sleeves Match sleeve at one point to one point of front armhole Pair cuffs, yokes, collars, collar bands Dillard Store Services, Inc. Confidential Page 7 Last updated: 7/19/17