Private Brands Woven Minimum Construction Standards

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1 How to use these Construction Standards: -Tailored/Career wear and Outerwear have additional requirements - please see separate links under the Wovens Minimum Construction Standards on -Product Safety Standards list additional requirements to meet CPSC and FTC requirements. Please see Performance Testing Softlines Apparel & Apparel Accessories on -Pattern Matching Guidelines are listed separately on -Defect Classification is listed separately. Please see Quality Assurance Defect Classification on -Underlined words have definitions/pictures in the Apparel Dictionary on under Private Brands tab/technical Design -Standards followed by code (A-1, B-1, etc) have diagrams in the Construction Standard Appendix. -Construction standards are updated twice a year before Spring/Summer costing season and before Fall/Holiday costing season. When starting a costing season, vendors should always check for latest version of Construction Standards and check this summary page for updates. Summary of Changes NOTE PLEASE SEE FOLLOWING PAGES FOR FULL DETAILS October 2015 Highlighted changes are effective Fall / Holiday 2016 Costing Page 5, SECTION E-Trims/Findings: Updated information for setting Invisible Zippers and updated image in appendix Summary of Changes NOTE PLEASE SEE FOLLOWING PAGES FOR FULL DETAILS Feb Highlighted changes are effective ASAP Page 5, SECTION E-Trims/Findings: Updated appendix # typo D11 S/B D10 Woven Construction Standards doc Page 1 of 7 Last Update: 1/15/16

2 SECTION A-Thread: Thread types sizes may vary based on fabric characteristics and weight and are subject to approval by TD. Seams must meet Kohl s strength and appearance requirements. See Preferred Supplier List for Sourcing requirements. General Apparel/Sportswear: Needle/Bobbin Thread Quality: -Non Garment wash/garment wash for softness/shrinkage only: Spun Polyester -Chemical or Abrasive Garment Wash for appearance/color change: Poly wrap/poly core (unless Cotton wrap/poly core is specified for wash down appearance) Looper Thread Quality: Spun Polyester or texturized polyester Minimum thread size given size up to next Tex size if not available for thread quality required. Needle/Bobbin Thread size: Looper Thread Size: 2-4oz = Tex 18 Tex oz = Tex 21 (Spun) Tex oz = Tex 24 (Core) Tex oz = Tex 27 (Spun) Tex oz = Tex 30 (Core) Tex oz = Tex 40 Tex oz = Tex 60 Tex 40 Maximum Bobbin size = Tex 80 for Needle Thread Tex >80. Men s Casual Shirts: Needle/Bobbin = Spun Polyester, Tex 24. Looper = Spun Polyester, Tex 18. No thread breaks / repairs allowed on collar, front placket, pocket set, sleeve placket or sleeve cuffs. Splicing in other external areas must be inconspicuous and must not affect the structural integrity of the garment. Denim/Twill/Corduroy - Light to medium wash process (Bottom Weight-8-14 oz.): Needle/Bobbin = Spun Polyester or Cotton wrap/poly-core (if required for after garment wash appearance), Tex 60 (Corduroy=Tex 40). Looper = Spun Polyester, Tex 40 Denim/Twill/Corduroy - Aggressive wash process (Bottom Weight-8-14 oz.): Needle/Bobbin = Poly-wrap/Poly-core or Cotton wrap/poly-core (if required for after garment wash appearance), Tex 60 (Corduroy=Tex 40). Looper = Spun Polyester, Tex 40 Sewn-on Metal Trims (Ex. buttons, snaps, hook/eye): Poly wrap/poly core. Must use Lockstitch sew if machine sewn Beading/Sequins: Poly wrap/poly core. Tex size as specified Shank Button Sew Thread Quality: Blouses: Poly wrap/polycore, Tex Internal Thread Color: Must be DTM ground unless otherwise specified. Contrast color is subject to design approval. Buttonhole Gimp: Required on keyhole button holes. Must be Gimp cord not sewing thread Tex 180 or Tex 210 depending on fabric weight. SECTION B-SPI Requirements: General Woven Apparel = SPI Men s Shirts = SPI Denim/Twill/Corduroy, Stretch Fabric Waistbands = 8-10 SPI Multiple needle topstitching: must be parallel unless otherwise specified. Example 2N pocket set no crossover of inside stitchline allowed at corners. Woven Construction Standards doc Page 2 of 7 Last Update: 1/15/16

3 SECTION C-Seam Requirements: No raw edges, open, or twisted seams. Stitches must be secured at start and stop with a 3-4 stitch back tack or overlapping ½. Ends of overedge seams must be SN tacked or have self-latched end (C-1) No seams in binding or taping within neck seam or sleeve opening. Splicing in other external areas must be inconspicuous and should not fall at CF or near neck opening of garment. Minimum Seam Allowance: Seams must pass Kohl s seam slippage and strength requirements Sandwiched seams without pre-finished edges (ex. Waistbands, Yokes, Cuffs) = ¼ tightly woven fabrics, and 3/8 for Loosely woven fabrics. SECTION D-Construction: Neckline/Placket/Shoulder/Side Seams: Collar/Necklines must be clean finished. Bound necklines to close at wearer s left shoulder. Bound finishes & flat hems must be line tacked towards the back. Tack length=binding width (D-1) Binding/Taping ends must be tucked under and have 2-3 stitch back-tack. Seam must be entirely covered by taping/binding and not visible along edges. (D-2) Plackets must be clean finished. Placket closure: Men s & Boy s = overlap wearer s left over right. Women s & Girl s = overlap wearer s right over left. Children s Zip Plackets refer to Kohls safety requirements for facing between zipper teeth and body Sleeve/Bottom Hem: Hems must be circular finished unless otherwise specified. Hem openings must be clean finished with Lockstitch (unless otherwise specified) and lay flat with no roping or puckering. Hem ½ or less in height must have full hem height double turned. Rib trim seam must align with body seam. Rib should be circular set unless sleeve opening is too small or rib height too wide to allow for circular construction. (D-3) Vents/slits must be clean finished and reinforced as specified. (D-4) Binding or taping must be continuous piece at sleeve opening and neck seam. Raw Edge hems at side/underarm seams must be tacked or backstitched at bottom of raw edge so stitching cannot unravel. (D-6) Pockets: Pocket openings must be reinforced as specified.(d-7) Pocketing and bags must not have raw edges. Styling Features: Shirring must be evenly distributed. Darts: No dimples at the ends of darts. Piping: Must be bias cut unless otherwise specified. Piping on jackets/light wt fabrics: Use untwisted cording. Elastic Openings: should be stitched with chainstitch ISO 401 Heat cut edges must be clean finished so they are not against the skin. (D-9) Woven Construction Standards doc Page 3 of 7 Last Update: 1/15/16

4 Fly: Men s/children s/women s Casual Closure: Overlap wearer s left over right. Bottom Bartacks/Line Tack placement as specified by TD Side Zipper Bartack/Line Tack Reinforcement: Place side bartack reinforcement even with top of zipper slider when fly is fully unzipped. See design sketch for design orientation and size. If styling requires higher bartack placement OR no exterior bartack shown, then set bartack reinforcement thru fly facings on inside and exterior bartack is decorative (set thru outside) only. (D-11) Cording/lockstitch required to reinforce fly/zipper tape. (D-12) Zipper gap: No more than 1/8 gap allowed between bottom of waistband and top zipper stop. No more than ¼ allowed between bottom of fly and bottom zipper stop. (D-12) Belt Loops: Folder Stitched: Use 2N/Bottom coverstitch (ISO 406) to finish back of beltloop or clean finished as specified. Bartacks or line tacks to secure top and bottom of loop unless or as specified. Waistband: Must be Folder Set if not a fold over or as specified. All Chainstitch (ISO 401) must be secured with a lockstitch (ISO 301) at start/stop with a minimum of 2-3 back stitches or bartack. Adjustable Elastic: Must be secured to inside waistband at CB. -If Main label is sewn to inside waistband, use label stitching to secure elastic to inside WB. -If Main label is screenprint/embroidery on inside WB. Then tack elastic btwn letters or to side of print/embroidery as specified. -Tack length = Elastic width. -Finished elastic length should allow 1 st BH of elastic to be buttoned w/o gathering WB or excess ease in elastic. (D-13) Half back elastic must be clean finished on inside waistband at sideseam. Seams: 5 Thread Safety Stitch (ISO 516). Tops: Underarm/Side seam: When topstitch is specified, topstitch is on front of garment. Bottoms: Inseam: 5-thread safety-stitch (ISO 516). When topstitch is specified, topstitch is on front of garment. Outseam: 5-thread safety-stitch (ISO 516) with cording/sn lockstitch (ISO 301) on back. All other topstitching to be SN chainstitch (ISO 401). Front Rise: Edges are finished with (ISO 503) or (ISO 504) overlock. Join seam with (ISO 301) lockstitch. Topstitching as specified = lockstitch (ISO 301). Join seam must extend to within ¾ of bottom fly facing. Back Rise: 5-thread safety-stitch (ISO 516). Topstitching as specified = chainstitch. Crotch Point: If inseam is not flat felled or topstitched, must have a bartack reinforcement inside seam allowance at crotch point.(d-15) Linings: Tops: -Lining must be secured at shoulder seam, underarm, hood if applicable with a floating fabric tack. Bottoms: -Lining must be secured at crotch point with a floating tack. -Free-hanging linings are additionally secured at inseam/outseam with floating tacks above bottom hem. Woven Construction Standards doc Page 4 of 7 Last Update: 1/15/16

5 SECTION E-Trims/Findings: Interlining/Backing, Elastic, Metal Fasteners and Zipper Suppliers: See Preferred Supplier List for Sourcing requirements. Internal Component Trim Color: (Elastic, Interlinings, reinforcement tapes, shoulder pads) White for light colors, Black or Gray for dark colors. Heat Cut Edges: No hot wire heat cut edges against skin. Heat cut ends are permitted if they are enclosed. Heat sonic edges are subject to approval. Elastic: Full Elastic openings must be set circular. Lapped join seam placed at CB/Underarm. Tunnel Elastic must be vertically tacked to tunnel at CB/Underarm (or other location as specified) to prevent twisting of elastic inside tunnel. Adjustable Elastic: See Section D Construction: Waistband Zippers: All metal zippers for tops and outerwear at center front must have auto lock sliders. All coil zippers for tops and outerwear at center front must have auto lock or semi auto lock sliders. All metal zippers for bottoms at waist opening must have auto lock or semi-auto lock sliders. All coil zippers for bottoms at waist opening must have auto lock sliders. Separating Only: Must be left hand insert, right hand pull. Separating Only: Reinforce zipper box/pin with Line tack or Bartack sewn on a 28 -stitch tacking machine. (E-1) Invisible Zippers: All invisible Zippers must be sewn into the garment with the supplier provided invisible zipper foot. (E-10) Closures: Snaps/Buttons/Buttonholes Must be evenly spaced and centered on the width of plackets, cuffs, and waistbands. Snaps/Buttons/BHs/Grommets must be reinforced on single plies of fabric. Reinforcements must be uniform size & shape throughout garment. Buttons decorative or functional must be attached with a lock-stitch button-sew machine. Shankless Buttons must be sewn with shank height suitable for fabric thickness (E-2) 4 Hole Buttons set with a minimum of 16 stitches. 2 Hole Buttons set with a minimum of 8 stitches. Shank Buttons set with a minimum of 8 stitches (vertically). (E-3) Wrapped Shank Buttons set with a minimum of 8 stitches (vertically) and 8 revolutions (horizontal wrapped). (E-3) CF Waistband Buttonhole: Keyhole buttonhole with gimp cord required unless otherwise specified. Keyhole Buttonholes when specified must always have gimp cord and overlap finish unless bartack finish is specified. Extra Buttons If required, 1 extra button per ligne included in specified location. Buttonholes: recommended minimum of 108 stitches; (304/404). CF Hook & Slide Bar: Hook centered on inside waistband 1/4 from edge. Slide bar centered on waistband, aligned w/ hook. Must be machine tacked not sewn.(e-5) Bungi/Elastic Drawcords: - Drawcord ends sewn into seams: Cut end must be wrapped in fabric and tacked to cord ½ from cut end in two places 1/4 apart. Only fabric is sewn into seam. -Circular/Continuous drawcords: Overlap cut ends 1 1/4, wrap fabric around cut ends. Tack fabric to cord in two places ¼ apart, ½ from cut ends. (E-6) Woven Construction Standards doc Page 5 of 7 Last Update: 1/15/16

6 Interlining: Hand ironing is not acceptable. Testing must be conducted (by vendor) through interlining supplier s lab prior to production to ensure appropriate application. Submit test results to Kohl s Technical Designer only if test fails or if requested by TD. Belt Loops Interlining is required as specified. Waistbands: Interlining is required on fabric less than10 oz. All other weights, refer to product specification. Padding: Scrim Requirements (E-7) Non-Garment Washed, padding quilted to shell or lining at least every 4 : No scrim required Non coated, low thread count, shell or lining fabric (thread count less than 190): Scrim required on 1 side of padding facing the low thread count fabric. Garment Washed: Scrim required on 1 side of padding quilt padding to lining (or shell as specified) and scrim is applied to other side so that padding is sandwiched in between scrim and lining (or shell). Padding not quilted to shell or lining fabric: Scrim required on both sides of padding and channel quilted together every 4. Scrim must be light weight enough not to affect the hand or stiffness of the padding but heavy enough to withstand 3 launderings w/o shredding. Embroidery: All embroidery must have suitable tear away or dissolvable backing and must be removed after application. Embroidery Thread must be polyester unless otherwise specified. Over-the-Back Embroidery Cover when specified by TD: Must use Vilene PD9333 / Chargeurs 2200/2201 with fusing machines or Vilene PE9924 / Chargeurs 2209 with hand irons. PCC Baby Soft can be used with fusing machine or hand iron. Fusible testing must be conducted by vendor through Vilene/PCC prior to production to ensure appropriate application. Beading/Sequins: Must be knotted every 1 with thread floats no longer than 1 (Children s 0 4T no longer than 3/8 : Children s 4 20 no longer than 1/2"). Longer float lengths are subject to TD approval if garment is lined or backed with an appropriate fusible over the back cover. SECTION F-Cutting: Cutting Direction: All components within the garment and multiple garments sold together as a set are cut in same direction. Napped fabrics: 2-way cut: all components within a garment and multiple garments sold together as a set are cut in same direction. 1-way cut: Top/Bottom sets sold as separates Uneven plaids/stripes: General Woven Apparel: 2-way cut, all parts cut in same direction within a garment. 1 way prints: cut entire quantity in same direction. Plaids/Stripes must be pinned or blocked and re-laid. Woven Interlining for Men s Woven Shirts Single Ply Collars: Cut woven interlining on 45 bias Two Ply Collars: Cut full collar interlining on 45 bias. Cut patch interlining on straight (warp) grain. Collar Stands: cut woven interlining on 9 bias. Cuffs, center plackets, small parts: cut woven interlining on straight (warp) grain. Woven Construction Standards doc Page 6 of 7 Last Update: 1/15/16

7 External Quilting Matching: CF& CB= Horizontal Match Sideseams = Horizontal Match Sleeves = Horizontal match from left to right. Woven Construction Standards doc Page 7 of 7 Last Update: 1/15/16