OTTOBRE design collection for Autumn/Winter 2010

Transcription

1 OTTOBRE design collection for Autumn/Winter 00 GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS Please read the following general instructions before starting your project. How to choose the correct size Adults sizes are chosen either according to the bust/chest measurement (e.g. blouses, jackets, coats) or the hip measurement (pants, skirts). Take the measurements on top of thin underwear and compare them with the size chart. You will find detailed instructions for taking measurements on the next page. How to find the pattern pieces on the pattern sheet An overview of numbered, smallscale pattern pieces and a list of pattern pieces can be found next to the sewing instructions for each design. The appropriate pattern sheet is also stated. On the bottom edge of the pattern sheet, find the number with the correct color for the desired pattern piece and move your finger upward on the sheet until you locate the same number. Trace the pattern on tissue paper, including all the necessary markings (e.g. grainlines, notches, pocket placements). The markings are also visible on the small-scale patterns next to the instructions. Make all adjustments to the pattern before ting out the garment pieces. Patterns The patterns include hem allowances, button extensions and facings. When ting out the garment pieces, add seam allowances of approx. cm (depending on the fabric) to each edge of the pattern. For reasons of clarity, some of the pattern markings (e.g. positions for Velcro tapes and buttons) have only been printed on the smallest-size pattern of the design. Copy these on the pattern size of your choice in the corresponding places, measuring the distance from the pattern edge. Large pattern pieces are printed on the pattern sheet in two parts. Combine parts A and B before ting out the fabric. Cutting Lay out the pattern pieces on a double layer of fabric observing the grainlines and foldlines. Draw the seam allowances on the fabric with tailor s chalk. If you only need to a piece out once, observe the pattern markings

2 and either on a fold (e.g. back, collar) or from a single layer of fabric (e.g. pocket). The measurements for garment pieces listed under the heading Cut also these pieces (e.g. belt loops, belts) already include seam allowances. When ting out the garment, include allowances for fitting adjustments if necessary. Each design includes specific and detailed ting instructions. Garment sections to be interfaced are shaded in grey in the overview of small-scale pattern pieces. Knitted and woven interfacings are on the grain, while non-woven interfacings may be in any direction as they do not have a grain. Interfacing pieces are generally adding the same amount of seam allowance (approx. cm) as on pieces from the fashion fabric. How ever, a smaller seam allowance may be used on interfacings for heavy-weight fabrics. Materials Fabric requirements are based on a fabric width of 0 cm. Preshrink the fabric before ting either by pre-washing or by steam pressing. If you choose a different fabric from the one suggested in the magazine, allow for matching up patterns and for ting with nap when calculating the fabric requirement. Choose the interfacing on the basis of the fashion fabric s color, quality, weight and care instructions. Since the quality and stretch of elastics vary, check the elastic lengths before sewing. If a zipper is not available in a desired length, buy a longer zipper and shorten it as shown in the illustration on pattern sheet C. Sewing Read through the instructions before you start sewing. If you wish, baste and try on the garment before sewing. To make sewing easier, the instructions have been written on the basis of techniques used in the clothing industry. The terms inner / outer and left / right refer to the garment when worn. Finish off the construction seams of the garment as you sew, even if the instructions do not specifically mention this. To finish off seams you can either use a serger or a machine zigzag stitch. On knit fabrics, stitch the seams using a machine stretch-stitch or a serger. No separate seam finish is necessary. Seams inside a lined garment do not necessarily have to be finished. Hems (e.g. at the garment s lower edge or sleeve edges) are made by turning under the seam allowance and topstitching close to the edge. The width of the hem and the seam allowance is given in brackets; for example sew hem ( cm + cm) means that the hem allowance is cm and the seam allowance cm. Iron the garment seams as you sew and give the garment a final pressing when it is completed. Practical tips Gathering: Decrease the upper thread tension and increase the stitch length (stitch length...). Sew two rows of gathering stitches 0. cm apart from each other on the right side of the edge to be gathered, placing one row on the seamline and the other within the seam allowance. Leave long thread ends. Gather the fabric by pulling simultaneously on both bobbin threads and spreading the gathers between your fingers evenly over the required length. The gathered edge is stitched in place between the gathering stitches using a regular straight stitch. Easing: Easing stitches are sewn as gathering stitches but the bobbin threads are pulled just enough to make the edge curve slightly (e.g. in set-in sleeve caps). SIZE CHART AND MEASURING WOMEN Height 8 ± cm regular fit Size Bust Hip Waist Outseam length Shoulder width Sleeve length Back width Upper arm circ Back waist length You can find this chart with measurements in inches on pattern sheet A. TAKING THE MEASUREMENTS It is hard to take your own measurements and therefore you need a friend to assist you. It is advisable to take the measurements in front of a mirror so that you can also see the position of the tape measure at the back. You will need a tape measure, a pen and paper. You can print a measurement chart out from our website at You will also need two fixed tapes, one round the waist and the other round the neck. You can make the tapes from a cm wide strip of cotton fabric by folding and pressing it in three and by ting it into required lengths. Place the waistline tape exactly horizontally round your waist and secure it firmly with a safety pin. Place the other tape round your neck so that you can easily slide your finger between the tape and your neck. The tape will thus be set at the base of your neck. For taking the measurements, you should stand upright with a relaxed posture with arms hanging free at the sides. The measurements are taken on top of underwear (panties and a lightweight camisole or a bra) close to the body, yet not too tight. Height Stand up with your back and heels against a wall and let your assistant make a mark on the wall at the top of your head, using a straight angle (e.g. a book). Your height is the distance measured from the floor to the marking. Bust Measure horizontally round the body with the tape measure running under the arms across the full bustline and across the shoulder blades. Waist Measure round the waist without the fixed waistline tape. Hip Measure horizontally round the seat (usually the fullest part of the hip). Outseam length Measure the distance from the waistline to the floor (measure from the lower edge of the waistline tape). Shoulder width Measure the distance from the base of the neck to the point of the shoulder. Sleeve length Measure from the point of the shoulder to the wrist, with the tape measure running over the elbow. Take the measurement with the arm slightly bent. Back waist length Measure from the base of the neck to the waist, to the lower edge of the fixed waistline tape. The measurements in the size chart are taken on the body. The patterns include the necessary allowances for ease of movement. The patterns in the magazine have been designed for a person with a height of - cm. If you are considerably shorter or taller, make the necessary alterations to the patterns before ting the garment pieces out. Points to be checked are the centerback length of a blouse or top as well as the sleeve and leg length. The designs, patterns, instructions, photos and articles in this magazine are protected under international copyright laws. Professional, industrial and commercial use of the material and manufacture under license is only possible under a written agreement with the copyright holder. For further information, contact us in writing, address: Studio Tuumat Oy, PL, FI-90 Rovaniemi, Finland. OTTOBRE design or Studio Tuumat Oy has no obligation to compensate for possible financial losses resulting from misprints or other errors on the pattern sheet or in the instructions. Copyright Studio Tuumat Oy, Rovaniemi, Finland

3 . Nora jersey top Page 0cm cm lightweight single jersey, (CV/WV/EA), width cm, stretch/recovery 0 % - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 8-00 cm stay tape, Vlieseline Formband yoke + front back shaped facing for back sleeve rose strip* PATTERN SHEET A red Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern piece for rose strip includes seam allowances. serger or zigzag stitch. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for outer yoke panel and for shaped facing and fuse them in place. Cut pieces of stay tape for bottom edge of yoke facing panel as well as for shoulder edges on back panel and fuse them in place (measure required lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Joining: Pin and stitch outer yoke panel to top edge of front panel, right sides together. Fold and press seam allowances gently toward yoke panel. Pin front and back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch shoulder seams. Pin shaped facing and yoke facing panel together, right sides facing, and stitch shoulder seams. Press shoulder seams open and finish raw bottom edges of shaped facing and yoke facing. Pin shaped facing and yoke facing to garment s neckline, right sides together, and stitch neckline seam. Trim neckline seam allowances slightly and clip them along curves. Understitch neckline seam allowances to shaped facing and yoke facing. Fold shaped facing and yoke facing to wrong side and pin and stitch their bottom edges to front and back panels, stitching-in-the-ditch along yoke seamline on front panel and stitching along bottom edge of shaped facing on back panel. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Finishing: Fold up, pin and press bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems as marked on pattern. Stitch hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Roses: Fold rose strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and finish edges together with serger or zigzag. Sew gathering stitches along curved edge and gather edge. Roll gathered strip up into rose shape, securing its bottom-edge seam allowances together with small hand-stitches as you roll it up. Attach roses to yoke seam on front by handstitching.. Norma velveteen or wool skirt Pages 9, A B cm Shell Lining skirt front skirt back front yoke - back yoke + - PATTERN SHEET A green cm velveteen (CO/EA), width cm, design A cm embroidered wool fabric (WV), width 0 cm, design B* cm viscose lining fabric (CV/PA), width cm - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G cm stay tape, Vlieseline Formband - invisible zipper, length 0 cm - 0 cm satin ribbon, width 8 mm Shell, design A: Preshrink the fabrics before ting either by washing or by steaming them thoroughly. Cut shell pieces from velveteen as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Take note of the direction of nap on velveteen when laying out the pattern pieces on the fabric. Shell, design B: Cut shell pieces from wool fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *The fabric has an embroidered border along one selvage edge. Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric with the center-front and center-back lines as well as the grainlines at 90-degree angle to the selvage. Lining: Cut skirt front and back panels from lining fabric. Note that bottom hem of lining is along pattern lines marking bottom-hem foldlines of shell. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching using presser-foot edge as guide unless otherwise instructed. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for outer front and back yoke panels and fuse them in place. Cut pieces of stay tape for waist seam allowances on yoke facing panels and fuse them in place (measure required lengths of tape on pattern pieces and add seam allowances). Joining shell: Sew rows of ease-stitching along waist seam allowances on skirt front and back panels. Pin outer yoke panels to skirt front and back panels (pull up bobbin threads of ease-stitching slightly to shape waist edges of skirt panels). Stitch yoke panels in place. Fold seam allowances toward yoke panels and topstitch seams. Pin front and back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch side seams. Press side seams open. Finish raw center-back edges. Open zipper. Stitch one zipper tape to center-back edge, right sides together, using invisible zipper foot. Stitch the other zipper tape in place in the same way. Close zipper and stitch center-back seam from bottom of zipper placket down to bottom hem. Press center-back seam open. Try skirt on. Pay special attention to the fit of the waist as well as to the way the skirt falls (the side seams should run perpendicular to the floor). Make necessary adjustments to both skirt and lining. Lining: Sew rows of ease-stitching along waist seam allowances on lining skirt front and back panels. Stitch yoke facing panels to lining skirt panels in the same way as outer yoke panels to shell. Understitch seam allowances to lining close to seamline. Cut satin ribbon in half, fold pieces into loops and machine-baste loops to side seam allowances on front panel, placing them at bottom edge of yoke. Pin lining front and back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch side seams. Press side seams open. Finish raw centerback edges and stitch center-back seam from notch for zipper placket down to bottom hem. Press center-back seam open. Joining shell and lining: Open zipper. Turn shell inside out. Pin and stitch left zipper-placket edge of lining to placket edge of shell, right sides together and with zipper in between. Place stitching mm away from previous stitching line on shell and stop stitching cm before notch for placket on lining. Repeat for the other placket edge. The bottom of the zipper placket on the lining is not attached to the shell in order to allow ease for sitting. Pin waist edges of skirt and lining together, right sides facing (fold center-back seam allowances to lining side) and stitch waist seam. Understitch waist seam allowances to yoke facing panels, working from right side of yoke facing. Turn skirt right side out and press waist edge lightly. Topstitch waist edge using presser-foot edge as guide. Finishing: Stitch hem ( cm + cm) at bottom edge of lining. Fold up, pin and press bottom hem of shell as marked on pattern and stitch it by hand with blind hemming-stitch.

4 . Concetta basic pants in denim or velveteen Pages cm cm slightly stretchy velveteen or denim (CO/EA or CO/PES/EA), width cm - cm lightweight cotton fabric for pocket facings - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 00 - pants zipper, length cm - button, ø 8 mm A A +A pants front +A pants back pocket facing pocket piece fly shield front waistband* +* back waistband* +* (8 straight waistband** ) PATTERN SHEET A black ABOUT PATTERN Join pattern pieces +A for pants front and pattern pieces +A for pants back before ting. **Use this pattern piece if you make the pants from wool fabric (c.f. design ). Follow the instructions for design for pressing the pants panels into shape and for constructing the waistband. Cut pocket facings and waistband facings* from lightweight cotton fabric and other garment pieces from velveteen or denim as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also cm x cm strip from velveteen or denim for belt loops. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edges and seamlines unless otherwise instructed. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for waistband pieces from velveteen or denim and fuse them in place. Darts: Stitch darts on pants front and back panels. Finish raw edges of inseam seam allowances. Front-hip pockets: Follow instructions for design no. 9. Sew topstitching at pocket openings using presser-foot edge as guide. Joining: Pin pants front and back panels together and stitch leg inseams. Fold seam allowances toward pants back panels and topstitch seams. Finish raw edges of crotch seam allowances. Stitch crotch seam. Apply zipper to placket, following illustrated instructions for fly-front zipper on p.. Stitch side seams from waist down to marks for bottom-leg vents. Finish raw bottom edges of legs. Turn bottom-leg hem allowance to right side at each vent and stitch edges of vent. Turn bottomleg corners right side out. Fold up, pin and stitch bottom-leg hems. Stitch small bar-tacks at top ends of vents. Belt loops, Waistline: Follow instructions for design no. 9, ignoring the last sentence in waistband instructions. Finishing: Turn seam allowances at free ends of belt loops under and stitch ends to waistband, placing them approx. cm down from waist edge. Stitch buttonhole and sew button on waistband as marked on pattern.. Renee jersey top Page 9 0cm cm lightweight single jersey (CV/WV/EA), width cm, stretch/recovery 0 % - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 8-00 cm stay tape, Vlieseline Formband cm clear elastic tape, Framilon, width mm 8 yoke + front back shaped facing for back sleeve 8 sleeve cuff PATTERN SHEET A red Cut garment pieces from single jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. serger or zigzag stitch. Stabilizing, Joining: Follow instructions for design no.. Sleeve edges: Stitch side edges of each sleeve cuff together, right sides facing, to form circles. Fold cuffs in half, wrong sides together. Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for sleeve edges (measure required length of tape on pattern piece for sleeve cuff and add seam allowances). Using a pen, mark clear elastic tape into quarters. Gather sleeve edges to fit sleeve cuffs by machine-basting clear elastic tape to right side of sleeve-edge seam allowance; align marks. Pin cuffs to sleeve edges, right sides together, and stitch with straight stitch, stretching both cuff and sleeve edge slightly as you sew to produce an elastic seam. Note that clear elastic tape is concealed between sleeve and cuff and is not visible on right side. Finish seams with serger. Hemline: Fold up, pin and press bottom hem as marked on pattern and stitch it with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine.. Bethie blouse Pages, cm lightweight silk satin (SE), width cm, design A, OR cm printed cotton blend fabric (CO/PES/PA/EA), width cm, design B cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 8 (design A) OR Vlieseline H 80 (design B) - - pearl buttons (design A) or plastic buttons (design B), ø mm Cut garment pieces from fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Do not add seam allowances to center-front edges of front panels. Cut upper collar with slightly wider seam allowances than under collar. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edges and seamlines unless otherwise instructed.

5 A B cm shoulder yoke front* back sleeve, design A sleeve, design B sleeve cuff collar + collar stand PATTERN SHEET A blue Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them in place. Design A: Cut interfacings for both collar pieces, both collar stand pieces and entire sleeve cuff pieces and fuse them in place. Design B: Cut interfacings for upper collar, inside collar stand and outer halves of sleeve cuffs and fuse them in place. Cuff plackets: Slash cuff placket openings on sleeves and stitch narrow hems at placket edges. Place placket edges right sides together and stitch small dart at the top of placket. Design A: Sew gathering stitches at sleeve edges and gather edges to fit cuffs. Design B: Machinebaste pleats at sleeve edges as marked on pattern. Button bands: Press folds along edges of front panels as marked on pattern (two folds on each edge) to form button bands. Turn interfaced facing portion of front edge to wrong side along the first pressed fold, aligning edge of its seam allowance with the second pressed fold. Fold front edge along the second pressed fold, concealing seam allowance on edge of facing within fold, and topstitch folded edge from right side of front panel using presser-foot edge as guide. Lay front edges right way up and press button bands. Topstitch outer edge of each button band using presser-foot edge as guide. Joining: Stitch bust darts. Sew gathering stitches along top edges of front and back panels and gather edges to fit shoulder yoke. Pin and stitch front and back panels to yoke, fold seam allowances toward yoke and topstitch seams. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch narrow hem at garment s bottom edge. Collar: Pin collar halves together, right sides facing, and stitch their top edges and ends. Trim seam allowances across corners, press seams open carefully with point of iron and turn collar right side out. Topstitch outer edges of collar using presser-foot edge as guide. Machine-baste bottom edges of collar pieces together. Turn and press seam allowance on bottom edge of inside collar stand to wrong side and stitch along edge using presserfoot edge as guide. Pin and stitch collar between collar stand pieces, with inside collar stand and upper collar right sides together. Trim seam allowances across corners and turn collar stand right side out. Pin and stitch bottom edge of outside collar stand to garment s neck edge, right sides together. Pin bottom edge of inside collar stand to neckline and stitch it in place close to edge. Topstitch around collar stand at the same time. Sleeve cuffs: Turn outside edge of each cuff placket to wrong side as marked on pattern and machine-baste it in place along sleeve edge. Pin and stitch inside edge of cuff (= non-interfaced half) to sleeve edge, with right side of cuff facing wrong side of sleeve. Fold cuff piece in half, right sides together, and stitch its side edges. Turn cuff right side out. Turn seam allowance on outside edge of cuff to wrong side and topstitch edge to right side of sleeve close to edge. Topstitch around cuff using presser-foot edge as guide. Buttons: Stitch buttonholes and sew buttons on sleeve cuffs and collar stand as marked on pattern. Stitch buttonholes on button band, placing topmost buttonhole cm down from neckline seam and the rest at regular 8 9 cm intervals. Check button placement on highest point of bust before stitching buttonholes. Sew on buttons.. Irene tunic Page 0 cm front yoke + back yoke + placket insert + front front hem band back back hem band armhole facing* PATTERN SHEET B red - printed soft cotton fabric (CO): cm large-patterned cm small-patterned cm polka-dot - cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - two buttons covered with tunic fabric, ø 8 mm - one sew-on snap fastener, ø 8 mm Cut off pattern pieces for front and back hem panels from patterns for front and back. Cut yoke panels and hem bands from polka-dot, placket insert panels from small-patterned and other garment pieces from large-patterned cotton fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. *Pattern piece for armhole facing includes seam allowances. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for outer yoke panels and both placket insert panels and fuse them in place. If your fabric is very fragile, fuse also narrow strips of interfacing to seam allowances on edges of placket opening on front panel (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale pattern). Front placket: Pin placket insert panels together, right sides facing, and stitch placket observing pattern markings. Slash placket insert between rows of stitching. Press seams open. Turn placket insert right side out and topstitch around placket close to edge. Finish raw inside edges of inner placket-insert panel. Sew gathering stitches along bottom edge of placket opening on front panel. Pin and stitch long edges of outer placketinsert panel to edges of placket opening on front panel, right sides together. Clip to stitching at each bottom corner of placket opening on front panel. Gather bottom edge of placket opening on front panel to fit bottom edge placket insert. Pin and stitch bottom edge of placket opening to bottom edge of outer placketinsert panel, right sides together. Press seam allowances gently toward placket insert. Pin inside edges of inner placketinsert panel carefully to front panel and stitch them in place from right side of front panel, stitching along edge of outer placket-insert panel. Joining: Pin and stitch hem bands to bottom edges of front and back panels, right sides together. Fold seam allowances toward front and back panels and topstitch seams. Stitch side seams and press seam allowances toward back panel. Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem. Finish sleeve edges with facing: Stitch one edge of armhole facing to garment s armhole, right sides together. Clip seam allowances along curves. Fold entire facing to wrong side, turn seam allowance on its free edge under and stitch turnedunder edge to armhole close to edge. Yoke: Pin and stitch shoulder seams of both outer yoke and yoke facing. Press seams open. (Try the yoke on to make sure that the shoulder seams are aligned with your shoulder line.) Pin outer yoke and yoke facing together, right sides facing, and stitch together their necklines, centerfront edges and bottom edges at front as far as center-front mark. Stitch armhole edges (= area between notches) of outer yoke and yoke facing together. Trim seam allowances across corners and clip them along curves. Press seams open gently with point of iron and turn yoke right side out. Pin and stitch top edge of back panel to outer back-yoke panel, right sides together. Stitch top edges of front panel to outer front-yoke panel in the same way. Turn seam allowance on bottom edge of yoke facing to wrong side and pin edge to yoke seam carefully. Topstitch around yoke, catching bottom edge of yoke facing in stitching. Finishing: Stitch buttonhole on right front yoke as marked on pattern. Sew one half of snap fastener to right side of left front yoke and the other half to underside of right front yoke. Sew on buttons.

6 . Susie jersey top Page 9 cm bodice front bodice back lower front panel lower back panel sleeve neckline binding* sleeve-edge binding* PATTERN SHEET B blue cm printed and cm solid-colored viscose jersey (CV/EA) stretch/recovery 0% - 80 cm elastic, width mm cm clear elastic tape, Framilon, width mm Cut garment pieces - from printed viscose jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Add cm seam allowances to all edges of these garment pieces. Cut neckline and sleeve-edge bindings from solid-colored viscose jersey. *Pattern pieces for bindings include seam allowances. If you use a binder attachment on your coverstitch machine to attach the neckline and sleeve-edge bindings, the binding strips in the width that fits the binder. with serger or with overedge stretch stitch on regular sewing machine, unless otherwise instructed. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. See general instructions for finishing edges with binding on p. before starting. Stabilizing: Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing shoulder edges on bodice back panel. Measure required lengths of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances. Machine-baste tapes to right side of shoulder seam allowances; thus they will be concealed within shoulder seams. Sleeve edges: Cut remaining clear elastic tape in half and adjust the length of each piece to fit around your arm (sleeve edges fall approx. cm above wrists). Gather sleeve edges by machine-basting clear elastic tapes to sleeve-edge seam allowances, stretching tapes as you sew. Finish sleeve edges with binding. Joining: Stitch right shoulder seam. Finish neckline with binding. Stitch left shoulder seam, fold shoulder seam allowances toward back panel and stitch them flat across neckline binding. Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Stitch underarm seam allowances flat across sleeve-edge bindings. Pin lower front and back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch side seams. Sew gathering stitches at waist edge of bodice front panel as marked on pattern and gather edge to fit lower front panel. Pin lower section to bodice and stitch waist seam with mm seam allowance, using straight stitch. Finish seam allowances together. Fold waist seam allowances toward lower section and stitch them to lower section to form elastic casing below waist seamline. Leave small opening for inserting elastic at one side seam. Insert elastic into casing and adjust its length. Stitch ends of each elastic together and close opening. Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. 8. Bessie jersey top with fabric neckline band Page cm solid-colored viscose jersey (CV/EA), stretch/recovery 0% cm printed soft cotton fabric (CO) cm interfacing, Vlieseline H cm elastic, width mm cm clear elastic tape, Framilon, width mm - elastic thread (suitable for bobbin thread) - - buttons, ø mm bodice front bodice back lower front panel lower back panel sleeve 9 neckline band, front + 0 neckline band, back + PATTERN SHEET B blue cm Cut neckline bands from printed cotton fabric and other garment pieces from viscose jersey as indicated on list of pattern pieces. with straight stretch stitch and finish them with serger unless otherwise instructed. Stitch bottom hem with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Sew topstitching close to edge or seamline. Read general instructions for elasticized shirring on p. 8 before starting. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for outside neckline bands and fuse them in place. Cut pieces of clear elastic tape for stabilizing shoulder edges on bodice back panel. Measure required lengths of tape on pattern piece and add seam allowances. Machine-baste tapes to right side of shoulder seam allowances; thus they will be concealed within shoul-der seams. Elasticized shirring: Stitch four rows of elasticized shirring at each sleeve edge. Stitch the two lower rows of shirring at pattern marking, placing them presserfoot width apart. Stitch the upper two rows in the same way, placing them cm up from the lower rows. Neckline: Pin bodice front and back panels together and stitch shoulder seams. Pin front and back neckline bands together and stitch shoulder seams of both inside and outside band. Press shoulder seams of bands open and finish inside edges of non-interfaced band. Pin neckline band halves together, right sides facing, and stitch their neck edges together. Press neckline seam open and clip seam allowances along curves. Place neckline band halves wrong sides together and topstitch neck edge close to edge. Pin and stitch edge of outside (= interfaced) neckline band to garment s neck edge, right sides together. Press seam allowances toward neckline band. Pin inside neckline band carefully to garment s neckline and stitch it in place from right side of garment, stitching along edge of outside neckline band. Overlap front placket edges, with right bodice front panel on top, and pin and machine-baste bottom ends of neckline band together. Joining: Stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Pin lower front and back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch side seams. Waist seam: Sew gathering stitches at waist edge of bodice front panel as marked on pattern and gather edge to fit lower front panel. Pin lower section to bodice and stitch waist seam with mm seam allowance, using straight stitch. Finish seam allowances together. Fold waist seam allowances toward lower section and stitch them to lower section to form elastic casing below waist seamline. Leave small opening for inserting elastic at one side seam. Insert elastic into casing and adjust its length. Stitch ends of each elastic together and close opening. Finishing: Fold up, press and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. Finish sleeve edges with serger rolled hem. Stitch buttonholes and sew on buttons as marked on pattern.

7 9. Bonnie velveteen skirt Pages cm velveteen (CO/EA), width cm - 0 cm printed cotton fabric (CO) - 0 cm interfacing, Vlieseline H 80 - zipper, length 8 cm - prong-ring snap fastener, ø 8 mm, Prym - contrast-color topstitching thread, Epic no. 80 cm skirt front skirt back front waistband +* back waistband +* pocket facing pocket piece fly shield PATTERN SHEET B green Cut waistband facings*, pocket facings and fly shield from cotton fabric and other garment pieces from velveteen as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also cm x 0 cm strip for belt loops. serger or zigzag stitch. Sew topstitching with contrast-color thread using presserfoot edge as guide unless otherwise instructed. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for waistband pieces from velveteen and fuse them in place. Inverted pleats: Fold skirt front and back panels right sides together at pleat marks, and pin and stitch each pleat along aligned pleat foldlines. Spread pleat underfolds open and topstitch pleats from right side of skirt panel. Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket facings to pocket openings, right sides together. Clip seam allowances on curved edges of pocket openings and understitch them to pocket facings close to seamline. Fold pocket facings to wrong side and topstitch pocket openings. Pin and stitch pocket pieces to pocket facings, right sides together. Machine-baste edges of pockets to waist and side seam allowances. Joining: Pin skirt front panels together, right sides facing, and stitch center-front seam from bottom of zipper placket to bottom-hem edge. Apply zipper to placket, following illustrated instructions for fly-front zipper on p.. Fold centerfront seam allowances toward the same direction as fly extension and topstitch center-front seam. Pin skirt back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch center-back seam. Fold seam allowances toward left back panel and topstitch seam. Pin skirt front and back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch side seams. Try skirt on. Pay special attention to the fit of the waist as well as to the way the skirt falls (the side seams should run perpendicular to the floor). Make necessary adjustments to both skirt and waistband pieces. Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of belt loop strip. Fold strip in three lengthwise, with finished edge on top, and double-topstitch in the middle of strip. Cut strip into five pieces. Machine-baste bottom ends of belt loops to waist seamline, right sides together, as shown in design sketch. Waistband: Pin outer front and back waistband pieces together and stitch side seams. Press seams open. Stitch side seams of waistband facing in the same way. Finish raw bottom edge of waistband facing. Pin outer waistband and waistband facing together, right sides facing, and stitch their top edges together. Understitch seam allowances to waistband facing. Pin ends of outer waistband and waistband facing together, right sides facing, and stitch ends as well as righthand bottom edges as far as center-front notch. Trim seam allowances across corners and turn waistband right side out. Pin and stitch bottom edge of outer waistband to garment s waist, right sides together. Pin bottom edge of waistband facing to waist seam and stitch-in-theditch along waist seamline from right side of garment. Topstitch around waistband. Finishing: Turn seam allowances at free ends of belt loops under and stitch ends to waistband, placing them approx. cm down from waist edge. Attach snap fastener to waistband as marked on pattern. Finish raw edge of bottom hem. Fold up and press bottom hem and stitch it with topstitching thread. 0. Lana knit dress Page cm wool knit (WV), width 0 cm - piece of cotton fabric for binding strips back panels. Pin front and back panels Cut armhole bindings on the bias from together, right sides facing, and stitch side cotton fabric. *Pattern piece for armhole seams. Pin and stitch sleeves to front and 80cm binding includes seam allowances. Cut back panels, aligning bottom edges of other garment pieces from knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces. with straight stretch stitch and finish them with serger or zigzag stitch. Stitch bottom hem, sleeve-edge hems and hem at neckline with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Pintucks: Stitch seven 0 cm long pintucks at neckline as follows: fold front panel wrong sides together at each pattern mark at neckline and stitch pintuck from right side close to folded edge. Joining: Fold up, pin and stitch sleeveedge hems as marked on pattern. Sew gathering stitches on sleeves and gather sleeves to fit raglan edges on front and sleeves with pattern marks on raglan edges. Armhole bindings: Pin and stitch one edge of each binding to raglan seams and armhole edges as follows: pin binding first to armhole edge on each side of side seam right sides together and then to raglan seams with right side of binding facing wrong side of sleeve. Turn seam allowance on free edge of binding under and stitch turned-under edge to wrong side front and back panels close to edge. Finishing: Pin, baste and stitch mm wide hem at neckline. (Take care not to stretch the neck edge; if necessary, stabilize the edge with water-soluble embroidery stabilizer, e.g. Vlieseline Soluweb.) Fold up, pin and stitch bottom hem as marked on pattern. front back sleeve armhole binding* PATTERN SHEET B black ELASTICIZED SHIRRING Wind sewing machine bobbin with elastic thread by hand, stretching thread slightly. Stitch with regular straight stitch, adjusting stitch length to.. and decreasing needle thread tension slightly. Sew stitching from right side of garment, placing rows of shirring 8 0 mm apart. Pull fabric taut as you sew to make sure that rows of shirring will be straight and parallel. To finish off, secure thread ends carefully. Shirring will not show straight after the first line of stitching and shirred area is gathered to its final width only after steaming it lightly with an iron. Experiment with shirring on a scrap of fabric before starting!

8 . Nanette feminine pea coat Page cm cm lightly-felted wool or wool-blend fabric, width cm, weight 00 g per linear meter cm cm satin lining fabric - 0 cm medium-weight iron-on nonwoven interfacing, Vlieseline F 0, width 90 cm - 0 cm lightweight iron-on nonwoven interfacing, Vlieseline H 80, width 90 cm - six buttons, ø - mm - sew-on snap fastener, ø 0 mm - grosgrain ribbon, width 8 mm, for hanging loop - shoulder pads (thickness approx. 0 mm) - piece of wool fleece for sleeve heads Shell Lining Shell front panel side front panel back panel side back panel lower front panel side lower-front panel lower back panel 8 side lower-back panel 9 upper sleeve 0 under sleeve upper collar under collar collar stand back belt front facing Lining front panel side front panel back panel side back panel + lower front panel lower back panel 8 side lower-back panel 9 upper sleeve 0 under sleeve pocket piece + PATTERN SHEET C black Shell: Cut shell pieces from wool fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Lining: Trace pattern pieces for lining front panel and lining lower-front panel (+) from patterns for shell, observing pattern markings. Fold away pocket extensions on pattern pieces for lower front and side lower-front panels and join pattern pieces + along panel seam for ting out lining. Cut lining back panel on fabric fold, placing center-back of pattern piece cm away from fold (= allowance for ease pleat). Note that bottom-hem edges of lining lower panels and bottom edges of lining sleeves are along pattern lines marking foldlines of shell. See small-scale patterns. Cut lining pieces from satin lining fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Add a little extra to seam allowances on lining side seams and on back seams of lining sleeves. with straight stitch. No seam finish is necessary as the garment is fully lined. Sew topstitching mm away from edges. Stabilizing: Cut interfacings for areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns and fuse them in place: medium-weight interfacing for front facings, collar stand pieces and upper collar and lightweight interfacing for other pieces. Cut interfacings with mm seam allowances and jagged edges on them if necessary for fading out edges that might otherwise show on right side of fashion fabric. Note! Choose the interfacing on the basis of the weight and texture of the fashion fabric. Before attaching interfacing to the actual garment pieces, we recommend that you experiment with ironing it on a scrap of fashion fabric to make sure that its feel and adhesion are satisfactory. After attaching interfacing, the garment pieces should be left to cool down on a flat surface for approx. 0-0 minutes. Preparation: Sew rows of ease-stitching along back seam allowance at elbow area and along sleeve cap on each upper sleeve, along shoulder seam allowances on back panel, and along princess seam allowance at bust area on each front panel as marked on pattern. Pull up bobbin thread of each row of ease-stitching to ease in edges slightly. Shape eased edges by steaming. Baste-mark center-front line as well as button and buttonhole placements on each front panel. Pin and stitch one collar-stand piece to upper collar, right sides together. Clip collar seam allowance to stitching and notches from collar-stand seam allowance at rounded corners, and press seam open. Stitch the other collar-stand piece to under collar in the same way. Shell bodice: Pin front and side front panels together, right sides facing, and stitch princess seams. Pin back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch centerback seam. Pin back and side back panels together and stitch princess seams. Pin front and back panels together and stitch shoulder seams. Press all seams open, taking care not to press too hard to prevent seam allowances from showing on right side of fabric. Collar: Pin and stitch under collar to shell s neckline, aligning side seamlines of collar with notches marking lapel roll line on front panels and starting and ending stitching at these points. Press neckline seam along each front panel open. Shell lower section: Pin and stitch pocket pieces to pocket openings on lower front and side lower-front panels, right sides together. Understitch seam allowances to pocket pieces. Pin lower front and side lower-front panels together, right sides facing, and stitch panel seams from waist to pattern mark for top end of pocket opening and from pattern mark for bottom end of pocket opening to bottom hem. Press folds at edges of pocket openings on lower front panels. Stitch pocket pieces together, right sides facing. Clip seam allowances on side lower-front panels to stitching at both ends of pocket openings and press panel seams open. Attach hems at pocket openings to lower front panels by hand with blind hemmingstitch. Stitch short horizontal rows of reinforcing stitching at both ends of pocket openings from right side of garment. Pin lower front section to bodice, right sides together, and stitch waist seam. Press waist seam open. Pin lower back and side lower-back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch panel seams. Press panel seams open. Pin lower back section to bodice, right sides together, and stitch waist seam. Press waist seam open. Pin and stitch side seams and press them open. Fold up and press bottom hem as marked on pattern. Shell sleeves: Pin and stitch upper sleeves and under sleeves together, right sides facing, and press seams open. Try-on fitting: Put garment on and pin shoulder pads in place. Overlap front edges, aligning center-front marks, and pin. Pay attention to the way the garment hangs on you as well as on the fit. Mark alterations to princess seams with pins. Ease sleeves into armholes and pin them in place carefully. Pay attention to the point where sleeve meets shoulder as well as to the amount of ease along sleeve cap. Mark the correct length of sleeves. Take garment off and baste-mark matching points at edges of sleeve caps and armholes. Mark the point at armholes where sleeve meets shoulder. Make the same alterations and markings on lining. Remove pins from sleeves. Press sleeve caps into shape. Fold up and press sleeve-edge hems observing markings. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes. Cut approx. cm x 0 cm strips from wool fleece for sleeve heads. Stitch sleeve heads to wrong side of sleeve-cap seam allowances. Joining lining: Stitch ease pleat on back panel approx. 0 cm down from neckline and approx. 0 cm up from waist edge. Pin and stitch side back panels to back panel and lower side-back panels to lower back panel right sides together. Press seams open. Pin bodice back and lower back section of lining together, right sides facing, and stitch waist seam. Press waist seam open. Stitch grosgrain ribbon as hanging loop to back neckline. Pin and stitch side front panels to front panels right sides together. Press seams open. Pin bodice front and lower front panel of lining together, right sides facing, and stitch waist seam. Press waist seam open. Pin and stitch front facings to lining front panels, right sides together. Fold and press seam allowances toward lining. Pin lining front and back panels together, right sides facing, and stitch shoulder seams and side seams, leaving 0 cm opening for turning in one side seam. Pin and stitch upper sleeves and under sleeves together, right sides facing. Press shoulder seams, side seams and sleeve seams of lining open. Pin and stitch sleeves to armholes. Stitch upper collar to neckline of lining in the same way as under collar to shell. Press neckline seam open. Joining shell and lining: Turn both shell and lining inside out. Pin and stitch outer edges of upper and under collar together, right sides facing, starting and finishing stitching at neckline corners of collar. Pin and stitch front facings to front panels, right sides together, starting stitching exactly at the end of collar attachment seam. Trim seam allowances slightly on under collar and front edges of front panels and small notches around rounded corners of collar. Press seams on collar and front edges open carefully with point of iron. Leave garment inside out but place collar halves wrong sides together, so that collar is between front and back panels. Pin and stitch seam allowances on top edges of collar-stand pieces together along straight part of collar stand. Stitch neckline seam allowances of shell and lining together along straight part of back neckline. Clip neckline seam allowances along curves if necessary. Pin and stitch bottom-hem edges of shell and lining together, right sides facing (pin bottom edges of front facings to hem allowance on shell so that stitching will run diagonally from garment s front edges to top edge of hem allowance). Bring sleeve edges of shell and lining end to end, line up edges and pin them together, right sides facing, and stitch (note that sleeve and sleeve lining are not placed within one another). Pin bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems in position and stitch them by hand with blind hemming-stitch.

9 Secure shell and lining together at armpits with long French tacks. Secure shoulder pads to shoulder and armhole seam allowances on lining with small French tacks. Turn garment right side out through opening in lining s side seam. Finishing: Press front edges and collar. Topstitch front edges and outer edges of collar with continuous row of stitching. Pin and stitch back-belt pieces together, right sides facing, leaving small opening for turning at bottom edge of belt. Trim and notch seam allowances at corners and press seams open with point of iron. Turn belt right side out and close opening for turning by hand-stitching. Topstitch around belt. Pin belt to back panel and secure it in place at button placements with a few stitches. Sew buttons at each end of belt as marked on pattern, catching in back panel of shell to secure belt in place. Close opening for turning. Stitch buttonholes on right front panel as marked on pattern. Sew buttons on right and left front panels as marked on pattern. Sew one snap-fastener half to upper buttonhole placement on front edge of left front panel, and the other snap-fastener half to lining side of right front panel. Steam-press garment thoroughly.. Caron career pants Page 0 0cm cm slightly stretchy viscose/polyesterblend fabric (CV/PES/EA), width 0 cm - 0 cm lightweight cotton fabric for pocket facings - cm interfacing, Vlieseline G 00 - pants zipper, length -8 cm - button, ø 8 mm Join pattern pieces +A for pants front and pattern pieces +A for pants back before ting. Cut pocket facings from lightweight cotton fabric and other garment pieces from fashion fabric as indicated on list of pattern pieces. Cut also cm x cm strip from fashion fabric in the direction of selvage for belt loops. serger or zigzag stitch. Preparation: Cut interfacing for waistband and fuse it in place (see area shaded in grey on small-scale pattern). Stitch darts on pants front and back panels. Press creases on pants panels as marked on pattern. Front-hip pockets: Pin and stitch pocket facings to pocket openings, right sides together. Understitch seam allowances to pocket facings close to seamline. Fold pocket facings to wrong side and topstitch pocket openings using presser-foot edge as guide. Pin and stitch pocket pieces to pocket facings, right sides together. Machine-baste edges of pockets to waist and side seam allowances. Joining: Pin pants front and back panels together and stitch leg inseams. Finish raw edges of crotch seam allowances. Stitch crotch seam. Apply zipper to placket, following illustrated instructions for flyfront zipper on p.. Stitch side seams of pants. Belt loops: Finish one raw long edge of belt loop strip. Fold and press strip in three lengthwise to a width of 0 mm, with finished edge on top. Stitch row of double-topstitching in the middle of strip. Cut strip into eight equal-length pieces. Pin one end of each belt loop to pants waist as shown in design sketch, right sides together. Stitch belt loops in place first within waist seam allowance and then 0 mm away from outer edge of seam allowance. Waistband: Finish raw edge of noninterfaced half of waistband. Press fold on waistband as marked on pattern. Stitch edge of interfaced half of waistband to pants waist, right sides together. Fold waistband right sides together at pants front and stitch its ends. Turn ends of waistband right side out. Pin non-interfaced edge of waistband to waist seam and stitch it place from right side of pants by stitching-in-the-ditch along waist seamline. A A +A pants front +A pants back pocket facing pocket piece fly shield waistband PATTERN SHEET C blue Turn seam allowances at top ends of belt loops to wrong side and stitch ends to waistband, placing them 0 mm down from top edge of waistband. Finishing: Stitch buttonhole and sew button on waistband as marked on pattern. Finish raw bottom edges of legs. Fold up and press hems at bottom edges of legs and stitch them by hand with blind hemming-stitch.. Vera wool-knit sweater Page cm cm lightly-felted wool knit (WV), width cm, stretch/ recovery 0% - cm lightweight cotton fabric for pocket pieces - 0 cm stay tape, Vlieseline Formband front back sleeve + shoulder panel side front panel side back panel neckline binding pocket piece + PATTERN SHEET C red Cut pocket pieces from cotton fabric and other garment pieces from wool knit as indicated on list of pattern pieces. serger or zigzag stitch. Press seams by steaming them through damp ironing cloth. Stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems with serger coverstitch or with twin needle on regular sewing machine. Stabilizing: Cut pieces of stay tape for neckline corner on front panel as well as for pocket openings and fuse tapes to seam allowances (see areas shaded in grey on small-scale patterns). Neckline: Pin front and back panels together and stitch shoulder seams. Pin neckline binding pieces together, right sides facing, and stitch their neck edges together. Understitch neckline seam allowances to inner binding piece close to seamline. Fold neckline binding pieces wrong sides together and machine-baste their bottom edges together along seam allowances. Mark center-back and shoulder points on neckline binding. Clip neckline seam allowance to stitching line at neckline corner on front panel. Pin and stitch neckline binding to neckline, starting and finishing stitching at clip at centerfront corner. Place center-front ends of neckline binding right sides together and stitch center-front seam on binding. Spread binding out and pin and stitch seam allowances at corner of binding to neckline seam allowances. Finish entire neckline seam. Joining: Pin and stitch side front and side back panels to sleeve + shoulder panels, right sides together. Steam-press seam allowances gently toward sleeve + shoulder panels. Pin and stitch pocket pieces to pocket openings on front and side front panels, right sides together. Finish seams and understitch seam allowances to pocket pieces. Pin and stitch sleeve + shoulder panels to front and back panels, right sides together, ending stitching at pattern mark for top end of pocket opening on front and continuing from pattern mark for bottom end of pocket opening to bottom hem. Steam-press seam allowances toward front and back panels. Press folds at pocket openings. Stitch pocket pieces together, right sides facing. Finish panel seams and edges of pockets. Stitch short horizontal rows of reinforcing stitching at both ends of pocket openings from right side of garment. Pin and stitch sleeve underarm seams and side seams. Fold up, steam-press and stitch bottom hem and sleeve-edge hems as marked on pattern.