Raphael Tuck Costume for 2017 Convention Souvenir by Helen Kish by Susan Sirkis

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1 Raphael Tuck Costume for 2017 Convention Souvenir by Helen Kish by Susan Sirkis M any years ago Clara Hallard Fawcett wrote a book entitled, Paper Dolls, A Guide to Costume. The early researcher made the point that antique and vintage paper dolls were an excellent way to determine suitable clothing for dolls of similar eras. The book was illustrated with many line drawings of the paper dolls and their clothing and did indeed serve as inspiration for both doll dressmakers and paper doll collectors. Subsequent books on the subject became ever more sophisticated, with hard research and lavish illustrations but the emphasis shifted from that of doll dressmaking to paper doll history. Still, they provide the illustrations and dates for suitable doll garments. While the best inspiration for doll clothes comes from examination of actual doll garments, great fun may be gained by copying early paper doll clothing. There is a plus with paper dolls...usually they are rendered in their undies, giving suggestions for those garments as well. Raphael Tuck and Company, an English firm that specialized in lavish art and designs printed the Fairy Tale Series of Dressing Dolls in As the name suggests, the clothing represents characters from (then) favorite fairy tales including the Goose Girl at the Well. It is this figure that provides inspiration for a costume to fit Ma Petite, the 2017 UFDC Convention souvenir doll by Helen Kish. The doll is a charming figure to sew for...and timeless in design so she can wear clothing across a broad range of time. The costume is made of bits and pieces of scraps of fabric selected to match the original paper doll illustration. The pictured garment is made in colors as close to the original as possible, but any combination of colors is acceptable. Since the doll is not tied to any particular style or period, there are no color rules. The directions for each garment will suggest suitable fabric types. Cover and paper doll are from the Fairy Tale set. 110

2 The overdress, cape and hat all utilize a method of construction referred to as dolly flatlining. The technique is adapted from a similar technique used in human clothing. For dolls, it is a convenient way to line, face and hem. The process is this: cut the seam allowance away from the pattern piece; on the straight grain of the fabric cut two pieces of fabric a little larger than the pattern with their right sides facing. Lay the pattern piece on the stacked fabric and trace all around it with a pencil, or on dark fabric, a white fabric marker. Stitch all the way around the outside of piece, leaving an area in an inconspicuous place to turn the right side out. Make sure all the edges and corners are fully turned. Turn in the seam allowance along the remaining open area and whip closed. Press the item well. Continue with construction of the garment. Doll flatlining is even easier if you just trace the pattern without seam allowances onto wax paper with a Sharpie. The wax paper stabilizes the small parts and pulls away easily from the finished piece. Goose Girl costume DOLL NEWS ufdc.org 111

3 LINGERIE: Prepare a piece of batiste or other fine white fabric measuring 20" by 7"; hem one long edge and trim with narrow lace. Make three narrow tucks along the top of the hem. Press. Lay the drawers pattern on the trimmed piece with the bottom of the drawers even with the hemmed edge. Cut drawers. Use the remaining length of trimmed fabric to make the petticoat. The waistbands may be cut along the top, untrimmed edge. French seams may be used if desired. Drawers: 1 - Sew center front seam. 2 - Make narrow hems along both back edges. 3 - Gather top along double dashed lines and sew to one long side of the waistband. 4 - Turn under short edges and remaining long edge of waistband and press. 5 - Fold waistband through the center down over the raw edge of drawers. 6 - Blind stitch all edges closed encapsulating raw edges. 7 - Close leg seams, overlapping back seams 1/8" at center back. New petticoat and drawers support her new dress. New undies, shoes and stockings, mitts, and a ribbon for her neck. 8 - Close back with preferred method: hook and eye; snap; or button and loop. Petticoat: 1 - Make narrow hems in each short raw edge above the tucks for placket. Hems should extend 2 ¼" from the top edge. 2 - Gather and follow drawers directions to mount on waistband. 3 - Sew center back seam. 4- Close back with preferred method: hook and eye; snap; or button and loop. Stockings: Ma Petite gets measured for new stockings. 112 Although a pattern is given for the stockings, the best way to make them is to cut a piece of stocking fabric - in this case an old sock - to reach from toe to thigh. Lay the fabric over the doll s leg wrong side out, and pin back together along the leg center back. Remove from leg and stitch along the pin lines. Use fine, closely spaced stitches. Trim seam as close as possible to the seam line. If desired, a length of narrow lace can be stitched along the top. 1 - If you use the pattern, sew the center back seam and the the foot seam 2 - Trim seam. 3 - Apply lace to top of stocking.

4 The finished underskirt and overdress. Note the position of the bodice front. DRESS: Underskirt: 1 - Cut a piece of thin fabric measuring 5" by 18". 2 - Make narrow hem measuring 3" deep along the two short edges. This will make the back placket. 3 - Make a 1" hem along bottom edge. Apply narrow trim in three or four rows evenly above the hem. Refer to photograph for guidance in placement. 4 - Make four tiny bows and attach to center of the box pleat above skirt trim. 5 - Make a 1" box pleat at center front. Gather remaining skirt top to fit waistband. 6 - Use the pattern to cut a waistband. Apply waistband to skirt following drawers direction. 7 - Sew remaining portion of center back seam closed. 8 - Use preferred method to close waistband. DOLL NEWS ufdc.org 113

5 Overdress: Bodice: Index card with applied fabric makes the bodice front. The bodice front is criss crossed with ribbon trim. 1 - Make the dress of lightweight cotton. Printed lawn was used on the sample shown in the photographs. Follow directions above to doll flatline the bodice. Leave about 1" on the lower back open for turning. 2 - Cut the pattern piece marked Bodice Front of index card. Cut a piece of fabric matching the underskirt to fit over the card piece with about 1/8" seam allowed all around. 3 - Turn under excess fabric and sew or glue the fabric to the cardstock. This is one place glue works really well! 4 - Arrange narrow ribbon over the bodice front as shown, tucking the ends under the edge. Glue helps here, too. 5 - Whip bodice front in place to center front of bodice matching neck edges. Notice that while the original outfit has a lace edging around the neck edge, the lace was a bit much in this small size so it was omitted. Try it...if it appeals, add lace to the neck edge. 6 - Sew shoulder seams. 7 - Edge the bottom of each sleeve with gathered ¼" lace. 8 - Sew sleeve seams. Be sure the bottom of the sleeves fit around the doll s outstretched fingers. 9 - Turn under seam allowance at top of sleeves. Blind stitch the sleeves to the armholes, working from the outside. Skirt: Trace pattern piece onto wax paper. Use as a guide to stitch two layers pf garment together. This technique is called doll flatlining! 1 - Doll flatline the skirt. Leave a couple of inches open in the back bottom to turn. 2 - Turn and press. Note that the back placket is formed by the slash shown on the pattern piece. It is finished in the flatlining process. Whip opening closed. 3 - Overcast the top edges of skirt and draw up to fit the bottom of each side of the bodice bottom. 4 - Whip skirt to bodice matching both front and back edges. 5 - Gather skirt sides along double dotted lines and draw up tightly to form a polonaise effect. To finish dress: 1 - Close back with preferred method. 2 - Attach black bow with long streamers to center front on the point. 3 - Make a ribbon sash with a multi-loop bow to tie around waist as shown in the photograph. The wax paper easily tears away. 114 Cape:

6 1 - Choose contrasting colored cotton and doll flatline. Make closure at bottom back. Turn and press. 2 - Attach ribbon ties and multi-loop bows at each neck edge. Hat: Since the rest of the outfit is simply made it is somehow appropriate that the hat be a little more challenging. It is made of a good grade of felt, trimmed with narrow and wide ribbon and a large doll shoe buckle. Glue is always useful when making headgear. Be sure that the glue you use is formulated for fabric: it must be non-penetrating and non-yellowing. 1 - Cut the crown and top of crown of dark index card, or cardstock. Cut away the top and bottom seam allowances as you do. 2 - Roll the card crown into a round shape and glue back edges together. 3 - Run a row of glue around the edge of the top of card crown. Lay the top of card crown on the card crown and glue together. When the glue has dried trim the top so the edges are flush. 4 - Cut both the crown and top of crown of felt. Glue the felt crown to the card crown and whip the overlapped back edges together. 5 - Place felt top of the crown on the crown and whip in place. 6 - Make the brim: lay two layers of felt together. Cut the seam allowance away from the outer circle on the brim pattern piece. Use a light fabric marker to trace the brim onto one side of the felt. 7 - Stitch around the outer rim on the drawn line. Turn. Steam flat. 8 - Make slashes along inner edge of crown. 9 - Fit inner circle into bottom of crown. Use a fine backstitch to join the bottom of the crown to the brim. Work from the top or outside of the hat Glue the loose edge of the inner circle of the brim to the inside of the crown Trim the hat with five rows of narrow ribbon - glue again! 12 - Add a band of wider ribbon and a buckle. Make a gathered edging of the ribbon to glue to the back of the buckle. And to finish the outfit: add bows and buckles to an existing pair of shoes. If you are a shoemaker make a new pair by copying the paper doll s shoes. Tie a narrow black ribbon around the doll s neck and make mitts by cutting black lace to fit around the doll s hands. Whip the ends together and take a few stitches between thumb and forefinger. Arrange the clothing on the doll and pin into pleasing shapes and drapes. While protecting the head and hair, apply steam from the iron held at a distance to set the folds. Let dry and remove the pins. A suitable goose having not come to hand, Ma Petite chose this costume to wear to a Halloween party while she masquerades as a really cute little witch! The hat and cape all ready to wear. DOLL NEWS ufdc.org 115

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