Wee Care AUSTRALIAN SMOCKING & EMBROIDERY ISSUE PH FAX

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1 AUSTRALIAN SMOCKING & EMBROIERY ISSUE South Road, Edwardstown, South Australia 509 hone MALVERN, 8600 fax COUNTRY BUMPKIN, 5 punley ROA, SOUT AUSTRALIA 506 w ebsit e P FAX mailorder@countrybumpkin.com.au mailorder@countrybumpkin.com.au

2 ESIGNE AN S MOCKE BY W ENY L EE OF S OUT A USTRALIA T hese precious little gowns are made from the softest batiste and feature miniature smocking designs at the neckline and sleeves. The sleeves are edged with fine cotton lace and the hems are finished with machine pin stitch. The gowns open down the centre back. REQUIREMENTS Sizes: Newborn:.2kg (7lb) Premie: kg (5-6 lb) Small:.4 -.8kg ( - 4 lb) Tiny: g ( - 2 lb) Teeny Weeny: less than 500g (lb) Fabric Imperial batiste 2 cm (44") wide: Newborn: 65cm (25 5 /8") Premie: 60cm (2 5 /8") Small: 55cm (2 5 /8") Tiny: 50cm (9 5 /8") Teeny Weeny: 20cm (8") Notions Cotton lace edging 0-5mm ( /8" - 5 /8") wide for sleeves: Newborn and Premie: 60cm (2 5 /8") Small and Tiny: 50cm (9 /4") Teeny Weeny: 0cm (2") 2 clear plastic snap fasteners Water soluble fabric marker No. 9 crewel needle (smocking) No. 9 straw needle (embroidery) Threads See page. PATTERN See pages 5 and 6. The finished length from the centre back neckline to the hemline is: Newborn: 5cm ( /4") Premie: 0cm ( /4") Small: 25cm (0") Tiny: 20cm (8") Teeny Weeny: 4cm (5 /2") For the larger sizes the hem allowance is 5cm (2"). The hem allowance for the teeny weeny size is 2.5cm ("). CUTTING OUT See page 4 for the cutting layout and cutting out instructions and page 6 for the armhole shaping templates. The front and back of the gown are formed by folding one rectangle of fabric twice and cutting the armhole shaping from one side at the upper edge. The sleeves are cut separately. PREPARATION & PLEATING Sleeves With right sides together, pin the lace to the lower edge of the sleeve, with the lace heading 2-mm ( /8") from the raw edge. Using a narrow zig zag, roll and whip the lace edging to the lower edge of each sleeve. Press the lace away from the sleeve. Pleat five half space rows (including two holding rows) with the lower row just above the seam. Unpick the pleating threads for 2cm ( /4") at each side and flatten out the pleats. After the neckline is pleated, pull up the pleats on each sleeve and tie off to measure approximately: Newborn and Premie: 0cm (4") Small and Tiny: 8cm ( /8") Teeny Weeny: 6cm (2 /8") Neckline See page 5 for the bishop blocking guide. Stitch the underarm seams and set the sleeves into the front and back armholes following the directions in the centre liftout. Pleat the appropriate number of rows according to the instructions below (including two holding rows). Newborn, Premie, Small and Tiny: 9 half space rows Teeny Weeny: 6 half space rows The top holding row is 5mm ( /6") from the raw edge for all sizes. All sizes: unpick the pleating threads for cm ( /4") at the back opening edges. Place the pleated neckline over the bishop blocking guide, matching centre front, centre backs and sleeve seams. Fan out the pleats to fit the guide and pin in place. Tie off the pleating threads, except for the top holding row.

3 2 B B 7 PATTERN REPEAT Pink gown A 2 A 4 5 A 6 7 PATTERN REPEAT Blue gown 2

4 SMOCKING The smocking is worked with two strands of thread. All rows are half space rows. Note for Teeny Weeny size Blue gown: work rows - 7 only. Pink gown: work rows /2-4 /2 only. Adjust the embroidery accordingly. Blue gown neckline Count the pleats and mark the centre valley. Row - 2. Begin at the centre two pleats on row with an over cable. Wave down to row 2, under cable, wave up to row. Continue to the end of the row. Turn the work upside down, return to the centre and complete the row. Row 2 -. Work a mirror image of the previous row. Rows - 5. Repeat rows -. Row 5-6. Refer carefully to the graph for the placement of the sets of four half space waves. Work each set of four waves separately, ending off after each set. Row 6-7. Referring to the graph, work a half space wave in the centre of each set of four waves worked in the previous row. Pink gown neckline Count the pleats and mark the centre valley. Row /2-2. Begin at the centre two pleats on row 2 with an under cable. Wave up to row /2, over cable, wave down to row 2. Continue to the end of the row. Turn the work upside down, return to the centre and complete the row. Row 2 - /2. Begin at the centre two pleats on row /2 with an under cable. Work three step trellis up to row 2, over cable, three step trellis down to row /2. Continue to the end of the row. Turn the work upside down, return to the centre and complete the row. Rows 2 /2-4 /2. Repeat the previous row twice. Rows 5-7 /2. Repeat the previous row three times. Sleeves (both gowns) Row - 2. Work a row of half space wave. Row 2 -. Work a mirror image of the previous row. CONSTRUCTION See page 4. 2 EMBROIERY Blue gown Refer to the graph for placement of the tiny white roses with detached chain leaves. Smocking on sleeve All embroidery is worked using two strands of thread unless otherwise specified. Roses Centre = A ( bullion loop, 8 wraps) Petals = A ( bullion knots, 0 wraps) Leaves = E ( strand, detached chain) Pink gown Pretty pink roses and buds alternate around the smocking. Refer to the graph for exact placement. Roses Centre = C (bullion loop, 8 wraps) Petals = ( bullion knots, 0 wraps) Buds = C ( bullion knot, 8 wraps) Leaves = E ( strand, detached chain) COLOUR KEY MC stranded cotton Pink gown B = ecru C = 224 vy lt shell pink = 88 baby pink E = 02 lt Jacobean green Blue gown A = blanc E = 02 lt Jacobean green Smocking (2 strands) Blue gown = A Pink gown = B and A or INTS AN IEAS FOR WEE CARE GOWNS Fabrics Use very soft fabrics such as Imperial batiste or 00% cotton batiste or voile. Colours Suggested colours for the gowns are pale pink, pale blue, cream and white. Colours for the smocking should be as delicate as the fabric. Tiny sprays of embroidery look beautiful on these gowns. Some suggested colours for the embroidery are MC stranded cotton Blanc, ecru, 224, 225, 4, 746, 747, 775, 776, 88, 89, 948, 02, 7, 747 or 75 Anchor stranded cotton 2, 48 or 7 ems ems can be finished in a variety of ways including lace edging, machine scallops, pintucks, pinstitch, or hand hemmed. Embroidery stitches such as featherstitch can be used to secure the hem. Ensure that any finishes are in keeping with the overall delicate look of the gown. Sleeves Sleeves can be finished with lace, a tiny hand stitched hem or machine scallops. To finish the ends of the sleeves before smocking, cut the sleeves 2.5cm (") longer than the pattern and finish the raw edge. Turn the 2.5cm (") hem to the inside and baste in place. Pleat through the double layer. The smocking will hold the hem in place and the basting can be removed later. When working the smocking around the sleeves, use a looser than usual tension to ensure that the sleeves will slip easily on and off the baby s arms. Neckline To make the neckline adjustable on the two smallest sizes, leave the ends of the binding open and thread a length of very narrow ribbon through the binding, leaving sufficient at the ends to tie. Construction Some people find it easier to construct the bishop before smocking. Ensure that all seams are tiny and well finished.

5 CONSTRUCTION Sizes Newborn, Premie, Small, Tiny, Teeny Weeny R c o n s t r u c t i o n double fold, matching the edges of the fabric with the corresponding edges of the template. iag a Using a water soluble fabric marker, mark along the curved edge of the template. Cut out through all four layers along the marked line (diags a & b). double fold PREPARATION All seam allowances are 5mm ( 6") (unless otherwise specified. Sleeve underarm seams Stitch each sleeve underarm seam with a tiny French seam, keeping the pleating threads out of the way (diag 5). sleeve REQUIREMENTS For full details, see page. CUTTING OUT Trace the armhole cutting templates onto lightweight interfacing or tracing paper, transferring the pattern markings. Cut out all pieces according to the appropriate cutting layout. Gown front and back (cut in one piece) Cut one rectangle, Newborn: 4cm x 2cm wide (6" x 44") Premie: 6cm x 2cm wide (4" x 44") Small: cm x 92 cm wide (2 x 6") Tiny: 26cm x 92cm wide (0" x 6") Teeny Weeny: 7cm x 5cm wide (6 2" x 2") Cutting out the armhole shaping Fold the rectangle in half down the length (diag ). fold Back view Fold again, bringing the cut edges to the fold (diag 2). Place the armhole cutting template on the fold cut edges Front view iag double fold iag 2 back front back iag b Sleeves Cut two rectangles, each Newborn: 9cm x 26cm wide (7 2" x 0") Premie: 5cm x 26cm wide (6" x 0") Small: cm x 2cm wide (5" x 9") Tiny: 0cm x 2cm wide (4" x 9") Teeny Weeny: 6.5cm x 4cm wide (2 2" x 5 2") Cutting the armhole shaping Fold each rectangle in half down the length. Place the sleeve armhole template to match the cut edges. Trace along the curved edge (diag 4). Cut out as before. Pleat the sleeves according to the instructions on page. Flatten out the pleats. Neck binding Cut one, cm ( 4") (wide on the bias Newborn: 27cm (0 2") Premie: 22cm (8 2") Small: 8cm (7") Tiny: 5cm (6") Teeny Weeny: 0cm (4") CUTTING LAYOUTS. Front & back rectangle 2. Sleeve rectangle. Neck binding selvedge selvedge Larger sizes: 2cm (44") wide 2 2 Teeny Weeny: 2cm (44") wide 2 2 iag 4 selvedge selvedge French seam iag 5 Attaching the sleeves to the front and backs With right sides together, pin each sleeve into the corresponding armhole. Stitch the U-shaped seam (diag 6). gown iag 6 Trim the seam to approximately mm ( 8"), neaten and press. To prepare for pleating, lay out the gown with the right side facing. Ensure that the sleeve is sitting flat (diag 7). sleeve sleeve neckline sleeve back front back iag 7 CONSTRUCTION. Back opening edges On each back opening edge, fold under cm ( 8") and press. Press under a further cm ( 8") and pin in place. Stitch the band in place close to the back iag 8 inner folded edge (diag 8). 2. Binding the neckline With wrong sides together, fold the binding in half along the length and press. Matching raw edges, pin the doubled binding to the right side of the neckline, stretching the binding slightly. Leave 5mm ( 6") of the binding extending beyond the back opening foldlines. Stitch (diag 9). button band 4

6 c o n s t r u c t i o n handstitch Alternatively, handstitch the hem in place or use a decorative stitch such as featherstitch. 4. Finishing Attach one clear snap fastener to the ends of the neck binding and one 2cm ( 4") below on the button band (diag ). iag 9 On the right side, check that the binding is even and the pleats are straight. Adjust if necessary. Trim the seam to mm ( 8"). Fold in the ends of the binding. Fold the binding over the seam to the wrong side. Pin the binding in place with the folded pressed edge concealing the previous stitching. Ensure that the binding is firmly wrapped over the seam to avoid wrinkles in the neck binding. andstitch the binding in place (diag 0). iag 0. em For all sizes except Teeny Weeny, fold under 5mm ( 6") along the lower edge of the gown. Press under a further 4.5cm ( 4"). For Teeny Weeny, fold under 5mm ( 6") along the lower edge. Press under a further 2cm ( 4"). Pin the hem in place. Secure the hem with a machine pinstitch, referring to your sewing machine manual for instructions. left back right back iag P A T T E R N back opening cutting line back opening cutting line sleeve seam sleeve seam Newborn & Premie Small & Tiny Teeny Weeny sleeve seam sleeve seam Sizes Newborn, Premie, Small, Tiny, Teeny Weeny centre front NECKLINE BLOCKING GUIE 5 MASTER COPY O NOT CUT Copyright Reserved 2007 Country Bumpkin Publications

7 p a t t e r n MASTER COPY O NOT CUT Copyright Reserved 2007 Country Bumpkin Publications PATTERN KEY Size Teeny Weeny Size Tiny Size Small Size Premie Size Newborn side e 5mm ( /6") seam allowance Teeny weeny side edge Sizes Newborn, Premie, Small, Tiny, Teeny Weeny top edge ARMOLE CUTTING GUIE FOR SLEEVES Teeny weeny side edge - double fold Sizes Newborn, Premie, Small, Tiny, Teeny Weeny top edge ARMOLE CUTTING GUIE FOR FRONT & BACK 6

8 SIZES NEWBORN, PREMIE, SMALL, TINY, TEENY WEENY Front view Back view Suggested fabrics: cotton or polycotton blend lightweight fabrics eg lawn, voile or Imperial batiste Size Weight eight Chest Waist Newborn.2kg 7lb 56cm 22 4" 4cm 6" 4cm 6" Premie Small Tiny Teeny Weeny kg 5-6lb.4-.8kg -4lb g -2lb Less than 500g lb Fabric and notion requirements can be found inside. The pattern, smocking design and contents are owned by Country Bumpkin Publications and cannot be used in full or part under any circumstance without the written permission of Country Bumpkin Publications. Each user of the pattern must purchase their own copy from It is illegal to copy or reproduce copyright material and give it or sell it to another person. Not only can Country Bumpkin Publications take legal action against you, but Australian law enforcement agencies often do as well. Even the most minor copyright infringement can be pursued and it is becoming commonplace for such action to occur regularly. Country Bumpkin Publications 2007 to view our complete range of smocking and embroidery patterns, visit