PROJECTS YOU CAN MAKE NOW

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1 40+ SIMPLE PATTERNS Bonus PATTERN INSERT The Unofficial Downton Abbey Sews Elegant From the editors of Stitch Magazine 43 PROJECTS YOU CAN MAKE NOW Lady s Dressing Robe Gentleman s Vest Flapper Dress Demure Book Cover & Other Finery Upstairs or Downstairs Which are you? This magazine is unofficial and unauthorized. It is not authorized, approved, licensed, or endorsed by Carnival Film & Television Ltd., its writers or producers, or any of its licensees. CREATE THIS Easy, Stylish Tunic Dress

2 From the editors of Stitch Magazine This magazine is unofficial and unauthorized. It is not authorized, approved, licensed, or endorsed by Carnival Film & Television Ltd., its writers or producers, or any of its licensees. sewdaily PATTERN STORE sewdaily embroidered shoulder dress by tina lewis 40 + SIMPLE PATTERNS Bonus PATTERN INSERT The CREATE Unofficial THIS Easy, Stylish Tunic Dress Downtonn Abbey Sews 43 Elegant PROJECTS YOU CAN MAKE NOW Lady s Dressing Robe Gentleman s Vest Flapper Dress Demure Book Cover & Other Finery Upstairs or Downstairs Which are you? AS SEEN IN Countess Cora is always impeccably turned out when she greets visitors to the manor. And she would love this classic, black silk dress with embellished shoulders in jewel tones. Three simple stitches in silk ribbon embroidery enhance three-dimensional, silk taffeta fantasy flowers and buds. It s an elegant statement, especially for welcoming guests to the Abbey ain Grantham style. FABRIC Main: 2 yd four-ply silk crepe, 54" Lining: 2 1/2 yd lining fabric, 44" Hem: 1 3 yd matching tulle Flowers/Bud: ¼ yd silk taffeta scraps OTHER SUPPLIES Templates: Front (A) Back (B) Sleeve (C) Front Facing (D) Back Facing (E) Front Embroidery Backing (F) Back Embroidery Backing (G) Embroidery Template (H) 20" invisible zipper 1 yd tricot interfacing, 20" Thread Sharp needle, size 12, for hems Hook and eye FOR EXPLANATIONS OF TERMS + TECHNIQUES USED CLICK HERE FOR OUR SEWING BASICS ONLINE PHOTOS BY LARRY STEIN F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 1 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

3 sewdaily sewdaily Silk thread to match fabric for hand sewing 2" 3" piece of template plastic Crewel needle, size 22, for ribbon embroidery 4mm green silk ribbon on 5-yd reels, three for stems, eight for flowers Embroidery tracing paper Pencil or fabric marker Zipper foot FINISHED SIZE SIZE CHART BUST CB LENGTH HIP 2 32" 37" " 4 33" " " 6 34" " " 8 35" " " 10 36" 38" " " " 40" 14 39" " " " " 43" " 39" 45" SAMPLE SHOWN IN SIZE 8 PATTERN STORE embroidered shoulder dress NOTES Seam allowance is 5 8". Stitch with right sides together unless otherwise noted. Work with short 12" lengths of ribbon. Secure the ribbon to the needle by threading the needle, then piercing the ribbon 1 8" from the end and pulling the needle through. Knot the other end of the ribbon. For a touch of luxury, cut the side seams and center back seam with 1" seam allowances. CUT THE FABRIC Transfer all markings. 1 From the Main fabric, cut: One Front (A), on fold Two Back (B) Two Sleeve (C) One Front Facing (D), on fold Two Back Facing (E) 2 From the Lining fabric, cut: One Front (A), on fold Two Back (B) 3 From the Interfacing, cut: One Front Facing (D), on fold Two Back Facing (E) Two Front Embroidery Backing (F) Two Back Embroidery Backing (G) WORK THE EMBROIDERY 4 Layer the Front and Back Embroidery Backings, fusible side down, on the wrong sides of the Front and Back shoulders. Fuse according to manufacturer s instructions. 5 Trace the Flower and Bud shapes from the Embroidery Template (H) to the template plastic and cut out. Cut two 2" squares of silk for each of the 26 Flowers and 12 Buds. Using a pencil or fabric marker, trace the templates to one of the square sets. 6 For the Flowers, make a ½" slit in the center of the fabric Flower for turning. Layer the marked squares on the second squares. Using a smaller stitch (1.5), stitch around the Flowers. Stitch around the Buds, leaving the base open. Tip: Inconsistent sizes and shapes add to the charm. Trim to 1 8" from stitching and across the Bud bases. 7 Turn Flowers through the slits and Buds through the openings; finger press around the edges. 8 Cut out the embroidery design and layer the design with embroidery tracing paper on the right side of the right Front shoulder, aligning the shoulder, neckline, and armhole edges. Transfer the design according to the manufacturer s instructions. Repeat for the right Back and reverse the design for the left Front and Back. 9 Using silk ribbon and a crewel needle, size 22, work the stems in an uneven running stitch (See Sewing Basics) with ¼" stitches on the surface and small spaces in between. Center the Flowers, in the color order desired, on the X marks and work Flower centers in a cluster of French knots. (See Sewing Basics) 0 Reserve the Flowers at the shoulder seams until the seams have been sewn. Make a tiny tuck in the base of the Buds; whipstitch (See Sewing Basics) in place. Place the base of the Buds on the X marks and whip into place. Cover the base with a cluster of French knots. Work ¼" 3 8" long leaves in the ribbon stitch at intervals along the stems and finish with small clusters of French knots along the stems. INSERT THE ZIPPER - Insert an invisible zipper in the center back seam according to the manufacturer s instructions, with the zipper pull 1" from the top edge. F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 2 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

4 sewdaily sewdaily = Pin together the center back seam below the zipper and, using a zipper foot, stitch the seam from the dot at the top of the vent to the end of the zipper stitching. Press the seam open and press the vent open along the foldlines. ASSEMBLE THE DRESS q Fold the Front darts, matching the dots; stitch. Press darts down. w Pin the Front to the Back at the shoulder seams; stitch. Press seams open. Place the last Flowers on the shoulder seams and secure in place with a cluster of French knots. e Pin the Front to the Back at the side seams; stitch. Press seams open. ASSEMBLE THE LINING r Repeat Steps to pin and stitch the darts, shoulder and side seams of the Lining. Press. t Pin the center back Lining seam from the dot below the zipper to the dot at the top of the vent. Press seam open. Press the seam allowances to the wrong side above and below the dots. y Wrong sides together, pin the Lining to the Main dress at the neck and armholes, matching the shoulder seams and center front at the neck, and the armhole underarm and side seams; baste. Slipstitch the folds of the Lining center back seam allowances to the zipper tape, clearing the zipper by 1 8". COMPLETE THE FACINGS u Trim 1/2" from the Front and Back Facing Interfacing shoulder seams and 1/4" from the outer edges. Layer interfacing on the wrong sides of the Main Front and Back Facings, with the PATTERN STORE interfacing 1/2" from shoulder edges and 1/4" from outer edges; fuse in place. Pin Back Facings to Front Facing at shoulder seams; stitch. Trim seams to 1/4"; press open. Finish the edge of the facing by overcasting, serging, or pressing 1/4" to the wrong side. i With edges even, pin Facing to neck, matching center fronts and shoulders, and pinning Flowers out of the way, if needed; baste. Stitch the neck seam; grade and clip the seam. Under-stitch the facing. Turn facing to the wrong side; press. Slipstitch the folded outer edge of the facing to the lining, taking care not to catch in the dress. Trim center back facing seams to 1/4", fold to clear the zipper, and slipstitch to the zipper tape. o Sew a hook and eye above the zipper. SET IN THE SLEEVES p Using a longer stitch (3.0), stitch the Sleeve caps between the notches just inside the seamline and stitch along the back sleeve seamline between the notches. [ Fold and pin the Sleeve seams together, matching the notches and drawing up the stitching to fit; stitch. Press seams open. ] Pin Sleeves into the armholes, matching underarms, shoulders, notches, and dots, and drawing up the stitching to fit; baste. \ Stitch the armhole seams; press toward the sleeves. Finish seam by serging, overcasting, or binding. HEM THE SLEEVES AND DRESS a Finish the edge of the Sleeves by overcasting, serging, or pressing under ¼". Turn up the hem and slipstitch in. embroidered shoulder dress Repeat for the dress hem, opening out back vent extensions; press. Slipstitch the hem in place. Fold back the vent extensions and slipstitch in place; press. s To make invisible hems on the dress and Sleeves, face the hems with weightless tulle. Trim the hems to ½". Cut a strip of tulle 1" longer than needed and twice as wide as the hem desired, plus 1". Fold the strip in half lengthwise; press. Pin the folded tulle strip to the right side of the hem edge, raw edges even. Stitch in a ½" seam on the hemline, overlapping the ends ¼". Press tulle away from the dress, then fold up the hem and press the edge. Using silk thread and a sharp needle, size 12, slipstitch the hem in place, picking up one thread of the fabric with each stitch. COMPLETE THE DRESS d Fold up the Lining hem so it is ¾" shorter than the dress hem; press. Trim Lining hem to 1¼", press edge under ¼", and slipstitch in place. Slipstitch folded Lining vent edges just inside the folded edges of the vent. SOURCES Metro Textile Corp., 4-ply silk, metrotextile.blogspot.com Pellon, 865F Bi-Stretch Lite interfacing, pellonprojects.com YLI, silk ribbons and thread, ylicorp.com TINA LEWIS designs and sews in her studio high in the mountains of Park City, Utah. Her quilts, clothing, and accessories for adults and children have been featured in numerous publications. Often detailed with hand-stitched needlework, her work has a fresh classic look. F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 3 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

5 sewdaily sewdaily guide PATTERN STORE embroidered shoulder dress GETTING STARTED Basic techniques + terms you ll need to know for the pattern you have downloaded. ASSEMBLING FULL-SIZE PATTERN PRINTOUT Test Square 2" 2" 1 When preparing to print the PDF, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be None ) and check the preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled Auto-Rotate and Center is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another PDF reader, check for similar settings). 2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2" 2. 3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page. 4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and follow the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. LAYOUT, MARKING & CUTTING GUIDELINES 1 Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. 2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this technique is not appropriate for some fabrics, so check the project instructions if you are unsure. 3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be cut on the fold are placed on the fold. 4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless a crosswise or bias grainline is present. 5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric unless otherwise noted. 6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing. 7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed. 8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully. PATTERN SYMBOLS & MARKINGS xt XS S M L XL BUTTON + BUTTONHOLE PLACEMENT MARKS Solid lines indicate buttonholes. A large open circle is the button symbol and shows placement. CUTTING LINES Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size. PLACE ON FOLD BRACKET This is a grainline marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the fold of the fabric so that your finished piece will be twice the size of the pattern piece, without adding a seam. GRAINLINE The double-ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold unless specifically marked as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be diagonal. NOTCHES Notches are triangleshaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have corresponding notches. DARTS Lines and dots mark darts. The lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, at the end of the dart, where your stitching should end). PATTERN DOTS Filled circles indicate that a mark needs to be made (often on the right side of the fabric) for placement of elements such as a pocket or a dart point. Mark by punching through the pattern paper only, then mark on the fabric through the hole. SLASH MARKS A dashed line (sometimes appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions. F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 4 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

6 sewdaily sewdaily PATTERN STORE embroidered shoulder dress EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS FRONT (A) cut 1 main on fold cut 1 lining on fold 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS SLEEVE (C) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16, a 1b 1c 1d 1e 1f 2a 2b 2c 2d e 2f EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS 3a 3b 3c 3d BACK (B) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 3e 3f vent foldline cut here for lining 4a 4b 4c 4d EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS FRONT EMBROIDERY BACKING (F) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 4e 4f EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS FRONT FACING (D) cut 1 main on fold cut 1 interfacing on fold 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 5a 5b 5c 5d 5e EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS BACK EMBROIDER BACKING (G) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS BACK FACING (E) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 5f F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 5 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

7 sewdaily 44"/54" main sewdaily 2-18 unfold fabric, then cut sleeves Sleeve (C) fold PATTERN STORE Sleeve (C) layout cutting layout Embroidered Dress 44 main /4 yds /8 yds selvedge Embroidered Dress 44 main /4 yds /8 yds Back Facing (E) Back (B) Front Facing (D) Front (A) fold fold 04/04/14 Embroidered Dress 44 main 18 3 yds unfold fabric, then cut sleeves fold selvedge Sleeve (C) Sleeve (C) Back Facing (E) Back (B) Front (A) fold Front Facing (D) fold Embroidered Dress 44 main 18 3 yds F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 6 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

8 sewdaily sewdaily PATTERN STORE layout Embroidered Dress 54 main cutting layout selvedges yds /8 yds Back (B) Front (A) fold Back Facing (E) Front Facing (D) 04/04/14 Embroidered Dress 54 main /8 yds selvedges Embroidered Dress 54 main /8 yds Back (B) Sleeve (C) Front (A) Front Facing (D) fold F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 7 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

9 sewdaily 44" lining sewdaily 2-18 PATTERN STORE layout cutting layout selvedges Embroidered Dress 44 lining /2 yds Back (B) Front (A) fold selvedges Back (B) Embroidered Dress 44 lining /4 yds Front (A) selvedges F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 8 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

10 sewdaily 20" interfacing sewdaily 2-18 PATTERN STORE layout cutting layout Embroidered Dress 20" interfacing /4 yd /8 yd selvedges Front Embroidery Backing (F) Front Facing (D) Back Facing (E) Back Embroidery Backing (G) selvedges F+W MEDIA, INC. All rights reserved. F+W Media grants permission for any or all pages in this PDF to be copied for personal use. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. PAGE 9 OF 39 visit shop.sewdaily.com for more patterns

11 1a

12 1b

13 1c ROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS FRONT (A) cut 1 main on fold cut 1 lining on fold 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16, 18

14 1d

15 1e

16 1f

17 2a

18 2b SS

19 2c EMBROI 2,

20 2d

21 2e

22 2f

23 3a

24 3b EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS BACK (B) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) cut 2 lining (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

25 3c

26 3d

27 3e

28 3f vent foldline cut here for lining

29 4a EMBROIDERED SHOULD FRONT EMBROIDERY BAC cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cut 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16

30 4b ULDER DRESS Y BACKING (F), cut 1 reverse) 4,16,18

31 4c EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS SLEEVE (C) cut 2 main (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

32 4d

33 2,4,6,8 4e ESS

34 EMBROIDERED BACK cut 2 main ( cut 2 interfacin 2,4,6,8 4f cut 1 main on fold cut 1 interfacing on fold 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 EMBROIDERED SHOULDER DRESS FRONT FACING (D)

35 5a EMBROIDERED SHOULD BACK EMBROIDER BACK cut 2 interfacing (cut 1, cu 2,4,6,8,10,12,14,16

36 5b ULDER DRESS ACKING (G), cut 1 reverse) 4,16,18

37 5c

38 5d

39 5e 4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18

40 facing (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 4,6,8,10,12,14,16,18 RED SHOULDER DRESS BACK FACING (E) ain (cut 1, cut 1 reverse) 5f

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