coat Amelia pattern by Katrin Vorbeck wool HOW TO SEW WOOL COATING MAKING YOUR FIRST COAT THE STORY OF AMERICAN WOOL

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1 BONUS FULL SIZE pattern insert SPECIAL ISSUE creating with fabric + thread SWEET 32 SEWING projects pillows + MORE HOME ACCESSORIES 5COATS STUNNING spotlight on wool HOW TO SEW WOOL COATING MAKING YOUR FIRST COAT THE STORY OF AMERICAN WOOL Amelia coat pattern by Katrin Vorbeck Project photo on page 46; instructions on page 85 of Stitch Winter Winter 2012 With its ladylike lines and exposed seams, this sweet coat combines the best of edgy and classical coating into one pretty little retro package. The wide collar lends a glam touch, and a flattering fit works for many figures. Photo by Larry Stein Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com page 1 of 42

2 Winter 2012 cutting layout fabric XS, S selvedges B side front A center front F lower sleeve G collar cut 1 D side back bodice I lower side panel J lower center front C center back H lower back fold E sleeve Amelia Coat fabric M-L 2 7/8 yds XL 3 yds fabric M, L, XL selvedges B side front F lower sleeve A center front J lower center front D side back bodice I lower side panel E sleeve G collar cut 1 C center back H lower back fold Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com page 2 of 42

3 WINTER 2012 pattern Getting Started Basic techniques and terms you ll need to know for the pattern you have downloaded. assembling Full-Size Pattern Printout 1 When preparing to print the pdf, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be None ) and check the preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled Auto-Rotate and Center is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another pdf reader, check for similar settings). Test Square 2" 2" [5 5 cm] 2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the TEST SQUARE. The Test Square should be 2" 2" (5 5 cm). 3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page. 4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and follow the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. Layout, Marking + Cutting Guidelines 1 Find the lines that correspond to your size and trace the pattern pieces, either on tissue paper or directly onto the fabric, using tracing paper and a tracing wheel. 2 If you are cutting pattern pieces on the fold or cutting two of the same pattern piece, fold the fabric in half, selvedge to selvedge, with right sides together. Note that this technique is not appropriate for some fabrics so check the project instructions if you are unsure. 3 Lay the pattern pieces on the fabric as close together as possible. Double-check that all pattern pieces to be cut on the fold are placed on the fold. 4 Make sure all pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with the grainline running parallel to the lengthwise grain unless a crosswise or bias grainline is present. 5 Copy all pattern markings onto the wrong side of the fabric unless otherwise noted. 6 Read through all cutting instructions listed in the project instructions for directions on how many pattern pieces to cut out of your fabric and interfacing. 7 Use weights to hold the pattern pieces down and use pins to secure the corners as needed. 8 Cut the pieces slowly and carefully. Pattern Symbols + Markings XS S M L XL Button + buttonhole placement marks Solid lines indicate buttonholes. A large open circle is the button symbol and shows placement. Cutting lines Multisize patterns have different cutting lines for each size. Place on fold bracket This is a grainline marking with arrows pointing to the edge of the pattern. Place on the fold of the fabric so that your finished piece will be twice the size of the pattern piece, without adding a seam. Grainline The double-ended arrow should be parallel to the lengthwise grain or fold unless specifically marked as crosswise. Bias grainlines will be diagonal. Notches Notches are triangleshaped symbols used for accurately matching seams. Pieces to be joined will have corresponding notches. Darts Dashed lines and dots mark darts. The dashed lines show where the stitching will be, and the dot shows the position of the dart point (signaling the point, at the end of the dart, where your stitching should end). pattern dots Filled circles indicate that a mark needs to be made (often on the right side of the fabric) for placement of elements such as a pocket or a dart point. Mark by punching through the pattern paper only, then mark on the fabric through the hole. Slash MarKS A dashed line (sometimes appearing with pattern dots) indicates an area to be slashed. Further instructions for making the slash will be included in the pattern instructions. Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com page 3 of 42

4 XS center front snap + button WINTER 2012 Amelia coat 1a 1b 1c 1d 1e 1f 1g 1h S M L XL snap D SIDE BACK BODICE cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL center front snap 2a 2b 2c 2d 2e I LOWER SIDE PANEL cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL 2f 2g 2h C CENTER BACK cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL cut on fold center back G COLLAR cut 1 main XS, S, M, L, XL 3a 3b 3c 3d 3e 3f 3g 3h snap + button snap + snap + snap + button button button A CENTER FRONT cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse snap + button button XS, S, M, L, XL B SIDE FRONT button snap + button cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL 4a 4b 4c 4d 4e 4f 4g snap + button 4h H LOWER BACK cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL cut on fold F LOWER SLEEVE cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL 5a 5b 5c 5d 5e 5f E SLEEVE cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL J LOWER CENTER FRONT cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL Interweave Press LLC Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document sewdaily.com page 4 of 42

5 1a XS S M L XL

6 1b D SIDE BACK BODICE cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL

7 1c

8 1d

9 1e I LOWER SIDE PANEL

10 1f

11 1g snap center front

12 1h snap

13 2a

14 2b C CENTER BACK cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL cut on fold

15 2c

16 2d

17 2e I LOWER SIDE PANEL cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL

18 2f

19 2g center back

20 2h G COLLAR cut 1 main XS, S, M, L, XL

21 3a snap + button snap + button

22 3b snap + button sna bu A CENTER FRONT cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL button bu

23 3c snap + button snap + button button snap + button

24 3d

25 3e B SIDE FRONT cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL

26 3f

27 3g center front

28 3h snap + button

29 4a

30 4b H LOWER BACK cut 1 main on fold XS, S, M, L, XL cut on fold

31 4c

32 4d

33 4e F LOWER SLEEVE cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL

34 4f

35 4g snap + button

36 sn 4h

37 5a

38 5b E SLEEVE cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL

39 5c

40 5d

41 5e J LOWER CENTER FRONT cut 1 main, cut 1 reverse XS, S, M, L, XL

42 5f

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