Assembly Guide. Collar Pattern Sleeve Pattern Skirt Right Front Pleat Template Finishing Instructions. 1a 1b 1c 1d

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Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Collar pattern Sleeve pattern Right Front Pleat Template Finishing Instructions A. Mark 5 back WS B. Stitch and slash 2 FIGURE 1 back Placket Stitch A.

1 Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Collar pattern Sleeve pattern Right Front Pleat Template Finishing Instructions A. Mark 5 back WS B. Stitch and slash 2 FIGURE 1 back Placket Stitch A. Fold ¼ under back B. Fold edge just over seamline Flip placket to inside, RS together Pivot WS slightly WS C. Topstitch right next to edge FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4 Stitch diagonally across lower end Assembly Guide M P Patterns & Templates Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Collar Pattern Sleeve Pattern Right Front Pleat Template Finishing Instructions october/november 2013, Issue #150 Assembling Full-Size Pattern Printout 1 When preparing to print the pdf, make sure that you are printing it at 100% and that there is no scaling. Check the settings for page scaling (should be None ) and check the preview to make sure that you will be printing at full size. Make sure that the box labeled Auto-Rotate and Center is unchecked (instructions apply specifically to Adobe Reader; if using another pdf reader, check for similar settings). 2 To ensure that the pattern has printed at the correct scale, check the size of the SCALE DIAGRAM. It should measure 1" 1". 3 To begin assembling the pattern, cut off or fold the dotted margin around each page. 4 The pages are numbered in rows, so the first row of pages is numbered 1a, 1b, 1c, etc. Line up the rows and match the dotted lines together so they overlap. Tape the pages together. Use the illustrated guide to match each piece. Once the pattern is complete, find your size, pin the pattern to the fabric, and follow the coordinating line to cut out or trace the pattern. 1a 1b 1c 1d Patterns & Templates Oct/Nov 2013, Issue #150 1" 0 1" Please use this scale to verify that you are printing at 100% additional ½-inch fold in LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE place. Start measuring to mark SKIRT AND FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS pleats from that point. On left skirt back, start measuring for SKIRT BACK PLACKET other side, increasing stitch allowance. Press encased pleats at finished placket 1. Fold skirt back in half and length to 1.5 and keeping seams toward skirt back. edge. mark a 4-inch line down seam allowance at 1 8 inch When working with silk, it is 2. Use pins to mark beginning center back. Cut one (fig. 2). helpful to use a zigzag stitch point and end point of each 2-inch(w) x 5-inch (l) 4. Press under ¼ inch on (W=2.0; L=1.5) for first pleat. Pins pleats securely in rectangle of fusible interfacing. remaining placket edge. Press stitching pass to help reduce place. Depending on size, it Fuse to wrong side of skirt seam allowance toward possibility of raveling. may be necessary to adjust back directly over marked placket. two pleats closest to side slash line. Slash along line 5. Place folded edge of SOFT PLEATING SKIRT seams up or down a bit in through both fabric and fused placket just over seamline FRONT AND BACK depth. Use bodice front and interfacing. This helps stabilize from Step 3. Working from TIP: The silk dupioni does not bodice back pattern pieces to placket area especially when wrong side, topstitch right gather up very nicely across check that finished pleated working with silk (fig. 1). next to folded placket edge the width. While the skirt can width of skirt front and two 2. Cut placket strip 1¾ (w) x through all layers (fig. 3). be gathered and attached to skirt backs will fit actual 8½ inches (l). 6. Flip placket to inside with the bodice, I chose an bodice. Try to force last pleat 3. Right sides together and right sides of placket facing alternate method of soft closest to side seam on all working with skirt side up, together. Stitch diagonally pleating the skirt to fit the pieces to end at side seamline straight stitch (L=1.5) placket across lower end of placket bodice, eliminating the need of bodice even if it makes it to skirt using a 1/8-inch seam (fig. 4). for gathers. necessary to adjust depth of allowance. When you get to 7. Fold under an additional ½ 1. Refer to skirt pleating last one or two pleats closest within 1 inch from lowest inch on right side (only) of templates (found on to side seams. Soft pleating is slash point, decrease stitch skirt placket. This additional centerfold) to mark skirt front, not an exact science don t length to 1.0 and allow skirt fold realigns center back of right skirt back (lap side), and worry if all the pleats are not seam allowance to decrease skirt to center back of bodice. left skirt back (under lap side) a perfect uniform depth. The down to almost nothing at for soft pleating. All pleats lace/organza belt covers over lowest slash point. Keeping SKIRT SIDE SEAMS fold away from center front or seamline between bodice and sewing machine needle down, French seam skirt front to center back. On skirt back, skirt. pivot slightly at lowest slash skirt back taking out a total of keep right skirt back placket 3. Finished pleated dress front point and proceed stitching up 3 8 inch for each seam pinned in place with and dress back. ATTACHING SKIRT TO BODICE 1. Right sides together and raw edges even, pin pleated skirt to bodice, matching center fronts, side seams and finished placket edges to foldlines on bodice backs. Take care to keep bodice lining out of way. 2. Stitch using a ½-inch seam left bodice back along allowance. Stitch a second center-back line. time ¼ inch away in seam 3. Make one horizontal allowance and trim all layers buttonhole on each cuff in close to second stitching line. marked position. Use Stitch n 3. Fold under ½-inch on Tear as above. Stitch a button lower edge of bodice lining in place in corresponding and press. Hand sew bodice position on underlay side of lining in place encasing seam cuff. allowance. Lower raw edge of 4. Hand tack center point of front inset is also folded an 18-inch length of under and encased in this 5 8-inch-wide silk satin ribbon seam. to bottom of V on front inset. HEM FINISH 5. Stitch a 1-inch NOTE: The 1-inch tuck, mother-of-pearl button (with machine-sewn hem requires a large open holes) in place 6-inch hem allowance. over hand-tacked ribbon. 1. Fold under 4 inches on 6. Draw ends of ribbon lower edge of skirt; press. through holes of the button Fold under ¼-inch along raw and tie in a bow. hem edge, machine stitch 1 8 inch from top edge of hem. 2. Fold under hem again, this time 4¾ inches; press. To form tuck, stitch 1 inch from folded edge. The raw edge of hem is encased in this tuck. Press tuck down toward lower edge of skirt. FINISHING UP 1. Make four horizontal buttonholes on right bodice back in marked positions. Use a piece of Stitch n Tear held on backside of fabric for stability when stitching buttonholes. Remove Stitch n Tear when buttonholes are completed. Cut buttonholes open. 2. Stitch size 18 buttons to corresponding positions of 2a 2b 2c 2d 3a 3b 3c 3d SEW Beautiful Not to be reprinted. All rights reserved. Please respect the copyright by not forwarding or distributing this document. sewbeautifulmag.com

2 1a Patterns & Templates Oct/Nov 2013, Issue #150 Lacy Sailor Dress by Gail Doane: Collar pattern Sleeve pattern Right Front Pleat Template Finishing Instructions 1" 0 1" Please use this scale to verify that you are printing at 100%

3 1b LACY SAILOR DRESS BY GAIL DOANE SKIRT AND FINISHING INSTRUCTIONS SKIRT BACK PLACKET 1. Fold skirt back in half and mark a 4-inch line down center back. Cut one 2-inch(w) x 5-inch (l) rectangle of fusible interfacing. Fuse to wrong side of skirt back directly over marked slash line. Slash along line through both fabric and fused interfacing. This helps stabilize placket area especially when working with silk (fig. 1). 2. Cut placket strip 1¾ (w) x 8½ inches (l). 3. Right sides together and working with skirt side up, straight stitch (L=1.5) placket to skirt using a 1/8-inch seam allowance. When you get to within 1 inch from lowest slash point, decrease stitch length to 1.0 and allow skirt seam allowance to decrease down to almost nothing at lowest slash point. Keeping sewing machine needle down, pivot slightly at lowest slash point and proceed stitching up other side, increasing stitch length to 1.5 and keeping seam allowance at 1 8 inch (fig. 2). 4. Press under ¼ inch on remaining placket edge. Press seam allowance toward placket. 5. Place folded edge of placket just over seamline from Step 3. Working from wrong side, topstitch right next to folded placket edge through all layers (fig. 3). 6. Flip placket to inside with right sides of placket facing together. Stitch diagonally across lower end of placket (fig. 4). 7. Fold under an additional ½ inch on right side (only) of skirt placket. This additional fold realigns center back of skirt to center back of bodice. SKIRT SIDE SEAMS French seam skirt front to skirt back taking out a total of 3 8 inch for each seam allowance. Press encased seams toward skirt back. When working with silk, it is helpful to use a zigzag stitch (W=2.0; L=1.5) for first stitching pass to help reduce possibility of raveling. SOFT PLEATING SKIRT FRONT AND BACK TIP: The silk dupioni does not gather up very nicely across the width. While the skirt can be gathered and attached to the bodice, I chose an alternate method of soft pleating the skirt to fit the bodice, eliminating the need for gathers. 1. Refer to skirt pleating templates (found on centerfold) to mark skirt front, right skirt back (lap side), and left skirt back (under lap side) for soft pleating. All pleats fold away from center front or center back. On skirt back, keep right skirt back placket pinned in place with A. Mark Placket Stitch A. Fold ¼ under Flip placket to inside, RS together back WS 2 5 B. Stitch and slash back WS Pivot slightly back WS B. Fold edge just over seamline C. Topstitch right next to edge Stitch diagonally across lower end FIGURE 1 FIGURE 2 FIGURE 3 FIGURE 4

4 1c additional ½-inch fold in place. Start measuring to mark pleats from that point. On left skirt back, start measuring for pleats at finished placket edge. 2. Use pins to mark beginning point and end point of each pleat. Pins pleats securely in place. Depending on size, it may be necessary to adjust two pleats closest to side seams up or down a bit in depth. Use bodice front and bodice back pattern pieces to check that finished pleated width of skirt front and two skirt backs will fit actual bodice. Try to force last pleat closest to side seam on all pieces to end at side seamline of bodice even if it makes it necessary to adjust depth of last one or two pleats closest to side seams. Soft pleating is not an exact science don t worry if all the pleats are not a perfect uniform depth. The lace/organza belt covers over seamline between bodice and skirt. 3. Finished pleated dress front and dress back. ATTACHING SKIRT TO BODICE 1. Right sides together and raw edges even, pin pleated skirt to bodice, matching center fronts, side seams and finished placket edges to foldlines on bodice backs. Take care to keep bodice lining out of way. 2. Stitch using a ½-inch seam allowance. Stitch a second time ¼ inch away in seam allowance and trim all layers close to second stitching line. 3. Fold under ½-inch on lower edge of bodice lining and press. Hand sew bodice lining in place encasing seam allowance. Lower raw edge of front inset is also folded under and encased in this seam. HEM FINISH NOTE: The 1-inch tuck, machine-sewn hem requires a 6-inch hem allowance. 1. Fold under 4 inches on lower edge of skirt; press. Fold under ¼-inch along raw hem edge, machine stitch 1 8 inch from top edge of hem. 2. Fold under hem again, this time 4¾ inches; press. To form tuck, stitch 1 inch from folded edge. The raw edge of hem is encased in this tuck. Press tuck down toward lower edge of skirt. FINISHING UP 1. Make four horizontal buttonholes on right bodice back in marked positions. Use a piece of Stitch n Tear held on backside of fabric for stability when stitching buttonholes. Remove Stitch n Tear when buttonholes are completed. Cut buttonholes open. 2. Stitch size 18 buttons to corresponding positions of left bodice back along center-back line. 3. Make one horizontal buttonhole on each cuff in marked position. Use Stitch n Tear as above. Stitch a button in place in corresponding position on underlay side of cuff. 4. Hand tack center point of an 18-inch length of 5 8-inch-wide silk satin ribbon to bottom of V on front inset. 5. Stitch a 1-inch mother-of-pearl button (with large open holes) in place over hand-tacked ribbon. 6. Draw ends of ribbon through holes of the button and tie in a bow.

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zippullover front PATTERN by JIL CAPPUCCIO

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