Blue Italian. Organdy Dress. Basic Bodice Dress with Center Panel Adaptation. From Pat Goldman & Susan Newberry of Chadwick Heirlooms

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Blue Italian Organdy Dress From Pat Goldman & Susan Newberry of Chadwick Heirlooms Basic Bodice Dress with Center Panel Adaptation Visit www.chadwickheirlooms.

1 Blue Italian Organdy Dress From Pat Goldman & Susan Newberry of Chadwick Heirlooms Basic Bodice Dress with Center Panel Adaptation Visit to order fabrics, laces and materials for this dress. The alteration for this design is quite simple. The concept is to remove the middle section of a basic bodice pattern and replace it with a long rectangle cut from straight grain fabric. The center panel has six, 1/4-inch tucks edged with 1/4 inch lace edging. Once you determine the finished width of the center panel for the size you are making, add 1-inch for seam allowance and 1/2-inch for every tuck you wish to stitch (3-inches in this case). Allow at least 1/4-inch at the top and bottom edges for attaching entredeux. TIP: You may want to give yourself a couple of inches extra length, as you can always trim to fit later. 20 Sew Beautiful March/April 2012

2 Basic Construction The back of this dress remains unchanged from the pattern. Follow pattern as directed for back. Prepare center panel: Sew tucks, lace and embroidery to center panel. Finish top edge with entredeux and set aside. Sew new side bodice piece to back bodice pieces at shoulder seams. Prepare sleeves with lace edging and sew to bodice arm curve before stitching side seams. Stitch side seams of bodice and sleeves. You should have two front skirt pieces. Sew a front to each side of single back skirt piece. Sew a placket in center back skirt. Run gathering threads in top of skirt on each side of placket. Gather skirt to fit bottom edge of bodice (side front/back bodice). Stitch and finish seam. Sew entredeux to neck edge, and down entire front bodice and skirt on both sides where center panel will be inserted. Make sashes (cut approximately 5- by 35 inches): Stitch gathered lace edging to one end of each sash. Roll and whip a tiny rolled hem on each long edge of each sash. Pleat ends of sash and either, baste to front side seam of dress over waist seam before center panel is inserted, or hand stitch under last tuck after center panel is inserted. Sew center panel to entredeux on front of dress. Remember to mark where the panel should end at neck in same spot on both sides so that it ends up perfectly straight across the top. Sew lace edging to entredeux along neck and across top of center panel, mitering front corners. Trim center panel even with skirt along bottom edge. Sew entredeux to bottom edge. Create a fancy band of two lace insertions and a lace edging, then attach to entreduex to finish skirt. Sew buttons and buttonholes to back bodice. Concept: Remove center section from pattern that is equal to the finished width of center panel. New Front Side Bodice (cut 2) Twice width of front side bodice FRONT SKIRT (cut 2) add 1/2 SA Center panel Includes: 1 seam allowance 3 tuck allowance (cut 1) New Pattern Pieces 21

6 DRESS EXTRAS CUTTING DIMENSIONS: CHART IN INCHES SIZES: BIAS PIECES PIPING for 2 SLEEVES 2 of 1-1/2 X 11-3/4" YOKE PIPING 1-1/2 X 12" FR WAIST PIPING 1-1/2 X 14" PIPING for 2 COLLARS 2 of 1-1/2 X 16-1/2" 2 of 1-1/2 X 12" 1-1/2 X 12-3/8" 1-1/2 X 14-1/2" 2 of 1-1/2 X 16-5/8" 2 of 1-1/2 X 12-1/4" 1-1/2 X 12-3/4" 1-1/2 X 15" 2 of 1-1/2 X 16-3/4" 2 of 1-1/2 X 12-1/2" 1-1/2 X 13-1/8" 1-1/2 X 15-1/2" 2 of 1-1/2 X 16-7/8" 2 of 1-1/2 X 12-3/4" 1-1/2 X 13-1/2" 1-1/2 X 16" 2 of 1-1/2 X 17" NECK BINDING 1-1/2 X 17-1/4" 1-1/2 X 17-1/2" 1-1/2 X 17-3/4" 1-1/2 X 18" 1-1/2 X 18-1/4" CHART IN CENTIMETERS SIZES: PIPING for 2 SLEEVES 2 of 3.8 X 29.8 cm YOKE PIPING 3.8 X 30.5 cm FR WAIST PIPING 3.8 X 35.6 cm PIPING for 2 COLLARS 2 of 3.8 X 41.9 cm 2 of 3.8 X 30.5 cm 3.8 X 31.4 cm 3.8 X 36.8 cm 2 of 3.8 X 42.2 cm 2 of 3.8 X 31.1 cm 3.8 X 32.4 cm 3.8 X 38.1 cm 2 of 3.8 X 42.5 cm 2 of 3.8 X 31.8 cm 3.8 X 33.3 cm 3.8 X 39.4 cm 2 of 3.8 X 42.9 cm 2 of 3.8 X 32.4 cm 3.8 X 34.3 cm 3.8 X 40.6 cm 2 of 3.8 X 43.2 cm NECK BINDING 3.8 X 43.8 cm 3.8 X 44.5 cm 3.8 X 45.1 cm 3.8 X 45.7 cm 3.8 X 46.4 cm ADDITIONAL SMOCKING RECTANGLE DIMENSIONS FULL SMOCKED FRONT BODICE Depth X Width 11-1/4 X 54-60" 11-3/4 X 54-60" 12-1/4 X 54-60" 12-3/4 X 54-60" 13-1/4 X 54-60" YOKE & SMOCKED FRONT DRESS Length X Width 28 X 54-60" 29-3/4 X 54-60" 31-1/2 X 54-60" 33-1/4 X 54-60" 34-3/4 X 54-60" FULL SMOCKED FRONT DRESSCHART IN INCHES Length X Width 33-1/4 X 54-60" SIZES: /4 X 54-60" /4 X 54-60" /4 X 54-60" /4 X 54-60" 7 FULL SMOCKED FRONT BODICE Depth X Width 28.6 X cm 29.8 X cm 31.1 X cm 32.4 X " 33.7 X " YOKE & SMOCKED FRONT DRESS Length X Width 71 X cm 75.5 X cm 80 X cm 84.5 X " 88 X " FULL SMOCKED FRONT DRESSCHART IN CENTIMETERS Length X Width 85 X cm SIZES: 3 90 X cm 4 95 X cm X " X " 7

7 SEW BEAUTIFUL STYLE: PASCALE DRESS - SZS 3-7 GIRLS BODY MEASUREMENTS SIZE CHEST IN CM WAIST / /2 23 IN CM CB to WAIST 9 9-1/ / IN CM DRESS: Smocked Lower Front Bodice without Sleeves SIZE " 3-3/8 3-1/2 3-5/8 3-3/4 3-7/8 YD 115CM METER 60" 2-3/4 2-7/8 2-7/ /8 YD 150CM METER DRESS: Plain Front without Sleeves 45" 3-1/4 3-3/8 3-1/2 3-5/8 3-3/4 YD 115CM METER 60" 2-5/8 2-3/4 2-7/8 3 3 YD 150CM METER *OPTION: For Full Smocked Front Bodice, add ½ YD (0.5 M) to the Plain Front Dress yardage. DRESS: Yoke & Smocked Front Dress without Sleeves 60" 3 3-1/8 3-1/4 3-3/8 3-3/8 YD 150CM METER *OPTION: For Full Smocked Front Dress without yoke, add 1/4 YD (0.3M) to the Yoke & Smocked Front Dress yardage. *SLEEVE OPTIONS: For Puff or Cap Sleeves, add 3/8 YD (0.4 M) of 45" (115 cm) fabric width, for any size or any dress version. For Half Cap Sleeves, add 1/4 YD (0.3 M) of 45" (115 cm) fabric width, for any size or any dress version.

11 DRESS EXTRAS CUTTING DIMENSIONS: CHART IN INCHES 7 BIAS PIECES SIZES: PIPING for 2 SLEEVES YOKE PIPING FR WAIST PIPING PIPING for 2 COLLARS NECK BINDING 8 2 of 1-1/2 X 13-1/2" 1-1/2 X 15" 1-1/2 X 18-3/8" 2 of 1-1/2 X 19-1/2" 1-1/2 X 18-3/4" of 1-1/2 X 14" 2 of 1-1/2 X 14-1/2" 2 of 1-1/2 X 15" 1-1/2 X 15-1/2" 1-1/2 X 16" 1-1/2 X 16-1/2" 1-1/2 X 19-1/8" 1-1/2 X 19-7/8" 1-1/2 X 20-5/8" 2 of 1-1/2 X 19-3/4" 2 of 1-1/2 X 20" 2 of 1-1/2 X 20-1/4" 1-1/2 X 19-1/4" 1-1/2 X 19-3/4" 1-1/2 X 20-1/4" CHART IN CENTIMETERS SIZES: PIPING for 2 SLEEVES 8 2 of 3.8 X 34.3 cm 10 2 of 3.8 X 35.6 cm 12 2 of 3.8 X of 3.8 X 38.1 cm YOKE PIPING FR WAIST PIPING PIPING for 2 COLLARS NECK BINDING 3.8 X 38.1 cm 3.8 X 46.7 cm 2 of 3.8 X 49.5 cm 3.8 X 47.6 cm 3.8 X 39.4 cm 3.8 X 40.6 cm 3.8 X 48.6 cm 3.8 X 50.5 cm 2 of 3.8 X 50.2 cm 2 of 3.8 X 50.8 cm 3.8 X 48.9 cm 3.8 X 50.2 cm 3.8 X 41.9 cm 3.8 X 52.4 cm 2 of 3.8 X 51.4 cm 3.8 X 51.4 cm ADDITIONAL SMOCKING RECTANGLE DIMENSIONS FULL SMOCKED FRONT BODICE Depth X Width 14-1/4 X " 15 X 54-60" 15-5/8 X 54-60" 16-3/8 X 54-60" YOKE & SMOCKED FRONT DRESS Length X Width 14-1/4 X " 15 X 54-60" 15-5/8 X 54-60" 16-3/8 X 54-60" FULL SMOCKED FRONT DRESS Length X Width 14-1/4 X " 15 X 54-60" 15-5/8 X 54-60" 16-3/8 X 54-60" SIZES: FULL SMOCKED FRONT BODICE YOKE & SMOCKED FRONT DRESS FULL SMOCKED FRONT DRESS Depth X Width Length X Width Length X Width 36.2 X cm 38.1 X cm 39.7 X cm 41.6 X cm 36.2 X cm 38.1 X cm 39.7 X cm 41.6 X cm 36.2 X cm 38.1 X cm 39.7 X cm 41.6 X cm SIZES:

12 SEW BEAUTIFUL STYLE: PASCALE DRESS SZS GIRLS BODY MEASUREMENTS SIZE CHEST / /2 IN CM WAIST IN CM CB to WAIST /4 13-1/2 14-1/4 IN CM DRESS: Smocked Lower Front Bodice without Sleeves SIZE " 4-3/8 4-1/2 4-5/8 4-3/4 YD 115CM METER 60" 3-1/4 3-3/8 3-5/8 3-3/4 YD 150CM METER DRESS: Plain Front without Sleeves 45" 3-7/ /4 4-3/8 YD 115CM METER 60" 3-3/8 3-1/2 3-3/4 3-7/8 YD 150CM METER *OPTION: For Full Smocked Front Bodice, add ½ YD (0.5M) to the Plain Front Dress yardage. DRESS: Yoke & Smocked Front Dress without Sleeves 60" 3-5/8 3-3/ /8 YD 150CM METER *OPTION: For Full Smocked Front Dress without yoke, add 1/4 YD (0.3M) to the Yoke & Smocked Front Dress yardage. *SLEEVE OPTIONS: For Puff or Cap Sleeves, add 1/2 YD (0.5 M) of 45" (115 cm) fabric width, for any size or any dress version. For Half Cap Sleeves, add 1/4 YD (0.3 M) of 45" (115 cm) fabric width, for any size or any dress version.

Enchanted 18M to 6 Smocked shirt and triple ruffle skirt pattern *Seam allowance is 3/8 except where indicated

Enchanted 18M to 6 Smocked shirt and triple ruffle skirt pattern *Seam allowance is 3/8 except where indicated For shirt front cut out a piece of fabric that is 44 by 18M 11.5 2T 12.25 3T 13.25 4 14.5