Marjorie Ruffle Doll Dress

Transcription

1 Marjorie Ruffle Doll Dress Designed by Connie Palmer These notes are to be used in conjunction with the companion DVD Supplies Marjorie Pattern (Doll) by That s Sew Connie 1/3 yd pink/pink fabric (upper skirt ruffle) 5/8 yd multi- color print fabric (bodice, lining, skirt, overlay, bottom ruffle) 1/4 yd. aqua fabric (overlay ruffle, middle skirt ruffle) 3/4 yd yellow picot- edged folded bias (overlay ruffle edge) 1 yd pre- made yellow piping (neck and arm opening) 1-1/3 yds robins egg spaghetti bias (overlay seam, ruffle seam) 7/8 yd hot pink spaghetti bias (ruffle seam) 7/8 yds yellow spaghetti bias (ruffle seam) Matching/coordinating threads for fabrics & trims Cutting For Ruffle Version RA#2261- ruby glint (hot pink) RA#2310 mint julip (light aqua) RA#2732 pro maize (yellow) Size 80 universal needle Velcro piece for back closure Sewline glue pen Lace shaping board Glass head pins Rotary cutter Scissors Tracing paper 2 aqua ruffles for overlay - 14 X 1-1/4 2 multi- color overlay pieces from overlay pattern Cut the following from each fabric print for skirt ruffles: One 2-1/2 x 45 strips and One 2-1/2 x 32 strip (To equal a 2-1/2 ruffle about 77 long) Note: Cut out the dress from the multi- color print fabric using the Marjorie pattern 1

2 Overlay for Childs Dress Prepare the Picot Edge Trim 1. We are going to trim the inside folds from each side of the folded bias. å 2. Pin the trim to one long edge of the overlay ruffle strip right sides together. 3. Sew using a straight stitch and about a 1/8 seam. 4. Trim the seam allowance to between an 1/8 and 1/ Change to a zigzag stitch wide enough to zig just above on the stitch line and zag completely off the edge of the fabric Martha Pullen Co 2

3 Gathering 1. Bring bobbin thread to the top of the fabric. 2. Using a straight stitch (L=3.5) sew on the right side of the strip with the first row is 1/8 from the edge of the strip and the second row is 5/8 from the edge of the strip. Overlay Mark the right overlay 1-½ from the neck edge. We don t want the ruffle to go all the way to the neck. Pull the top, needle threads to gather the strip, NOT THE BOBBIN THREAD. 1. Pin the ruffle to the overlay, right sides together. 2. Swing the ruffle out until the trim lines up with the neck mark. 3

4 1. Stitch the ruffle to the overlay using a straight stitch and a 1/4 seam. 2. Overcast the seam allowance with a zigzag or use a serger to finish the seam. Repeat for the other side only the ruffle goes to the neck. 4

5 Glue the spaghetti bias over the seam. Change stitch to a three-step zigzag (W=3.5 L=1.4). Use this stitch to attach the spaghetti bias. Other stitches could be used but this is my favorite. Serge or overcast with a zigzag, the sides of each overlay. 5

6 Now we can continue with the dress pattern directions. Once your front yoke and back yokes are sewn together at the sides place your overlay on top. The overlay is not sewn in the side seam. After your overlay is pinned on, sew your straps and shoulder seams. The side of the overlay will topstitch down after the skirt is sewn on. For now leave it free. Repeat for lining. Once your lining is sewn, serge the bottom of the lining. Continue following the main directions, adding the piping and sewing the yoke to lining. 6

7 Skirt Ruffles You are going to make 3 ruffles in different colors. Each ruffle strip has three pieces - two pieces are 45 the other piece is Cut off all the selvages. 2. Sew the same color ruffle strips together along the short ends. 3. Stitch using a 1/4 seam. 4. Trim seam to 1/8 and overcast the seam allowance with a zigzag (refer to page 2, step 5) or rolled hem on your serger. Narrow Hemmer Foot 1. We are going to use the narrow hem foot and hem all the ruffles. Please note: the edges of the ruffle can also be serged with a rolled hem or three-thread narrow overlock, if desired. 2. On the wrong side of the ruffle strip sew a straight stitch an 1/8 from the raw edge. 1. Attach the narrow hemmer foot. 2. Bring bobbin thread to the top of the fabric so we have a long tail. 3. On the wrong side of the ruffle strip, sew a straight stitch 1/8 from the edge for about 1½. 4. Guide the strip into the roll of the foot using your long thread tail. Lower your foot and hem along one long edge. 7

8 Use the gathering directions on page 3 and run gathering threads on each ruffle strip. 1. Mark the center and quarter points of the strip. 2. The bottom of the first ruffle will be even with the bottom of the skirt. 3. Place your skirt right side up on your lace shaping board. 4. Pin the center of the strip to the center of the skirt. I use 2 pins, one in the top edge of the ruffle and one in the bottom of the ruffle. 5. Pull the top (needle) threads to gather from one side to the center. Remember DO NOT PULLTHE BOBBIN THREAD. Match the quarter mark on the strip with the side seam. Match up the end of the strip with the back of the skirt. Pin the ruffle as you go pinning into the lace shaping board. Do other side. 6. Now repin, pinning the ruffle to the skirt so you can get if off the board. Zigzag the raw edge of the ruffle. 8

9 1. Using your Sewline glue pen, glue the spaghetti bias over the edge of the seam. 2. Using a three-step zigzag, sew using thread to match the spaghetti bias. 1. Each ruffle is pinned 3 from the last. 2. Repeat the directions for sewing the ruffle and the spaghetti bias onto the skirt. 3. After all 3 ruffles are sewn on, trim ruffles in the back to match edge of skirt. 4. Continue now with the dress pattern directions of the back placket. 9

10 1. Pin the top of the skirt to fit the bottom of the yoke. 2. You will be sewing it to only one layer of the yoke. 3. Either turn under lining and whip down by hand or press seam up towards the yoke and top let lining hang down past seam top stitch from the right side. 4. Open up seam allowance where you marked for the straps. 5. Insert strap in opening and topstitch. 6. Sew the back seam according to main directions. 7. Add Velcro to each side to close. 10