Fresh Pick. Home Grown Quilt by Heidi Pridemore. Apron & Potholders by Stacey Day

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Shawn Hood
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1 Home Grown Quilt by Heidi Pridemore Apron & Potholders by Stacey Day

2 Home Grown Quilt by Heidi Pridemore featuring the Fresh Pick collection by Susy Pilgrim Waters for P&B Textiles Quilt Size: 72 square Yardage Fabric A FPIC 454 W 3 /8 yard Fabric B FPIC 455 R 1 yard Fabric C FPIC 457 R 3 /8 yard Fabric D FPIC 452 MU 3 /4 yard Fabric E FPIC 458 G 7 /8 yard Fabric F FPIC 453 MU 2 /3 yard Fabric G FPIC 457 W 1 1 /8 yards Fabric H FPIC 455 O 1 /2 yard Fabric I FPIC 454 G 1 /4 yard Fabric J FPIC 458 R 1 /4 yard Fabric K FPIC 456 AU 7 /8 yard Fabric L FPIC 459 G 1 yard Backing Any FPIC fabric 4 1 /2 yards Cutting All strips are cut across the width of the fabric. From Fabric A (FPIC 454 W) cut: (1) 10 1 /2 x 42 strip; sub-cut into (4) 10 1 /2 squares. From Fabric B (FPIC 455 R) cut: (8) 2 1 /2 x 42 strips. Piece the strips to make (2) 2 1 /2 x 72 1 /2 strips and (2) 2 1 /2 x 68 1 /2 strips. (2) 1 1 /2 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (8) 1 1 /2 x 10 1 /2 strips. (3) 1 1 /2 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (8) 1 1 /2 x 12 1 /2 strips. From Fabric C (FPIC 457 R) cut: (1) 10 1 /2 x 42 strip; sub-cut into (4) 10 1 /2 squares. From Fabric D (FPIC 452 MU) cut: (2) 10 1 /2 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (5) 10 1 /2 squares. From Fabric F (FPIC 453 MU) cut: (2) 6 1 /2 x 42 squares; sub-cut into (12) 6 1 /2 squares. (1) 6 7 /8 x 42 strip; sub-cut into (4) 6 7 /8 squares. Cut the squares across one diagonal to make (8) 6 7 /8 triangles. From Fabric G (FPIC 457 W) cut: (4) 6 7 /8 x 42 strip; sub-cut into (24) 6 7 /8 squares. Cut the square across one diagonal to make (48) triangles. From Fabric H (FPIC 455 O) cut: (3) 1 1 /2 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (10) 1 1 /2 x 10 1 /2 strips. (4) 1 1 /2 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (10) 1 1 /2 x 12 1 /2 strips. From Fabric I (FPIC 454 G) cut: (1) 6 7 /8 x 42 strip; sub-cut into (2) 6 7 /8 squares. Cut the square across one diagonal to make (4) triangles. From Fabric J (FPIC 458 R) cut: (1) 6 7 /8 x 42 strip; sub-cut into (2) 6 7 /8 squares. Cut the square across one diagonal to make (4) triangles. From Fabric K (FPIC 456 AU) cut: (3) 6 7 /8 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (16) 6 7 /8 squares. Cut the squares across one diagonal to make (32) triangles. From Fabric L (FPIC 459 G) cut: (2) 1 1 /2 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (8) 1 1 /2 x 10 1 /2 strips. (3) 1 1 /2 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (8) 1 1 /2 x 12 1 /2 strips. (8) 2 1 /2 x 42 strips for the binding. From Fabric E (FPIC 458 G) cut: (3) 6 7 /8 x 42 strips; sub-cut into (16) 6 7 /8 squares. Cut the squares across one diagonal to make (32) triangles.

Block Assembly 1. Sew 1 1 /2 x 10 1 /2 Fabric H strips to opposite sides of a Fabric D square. Sew 1 1 /2 x 12 1 /2 Fabric H strips to the top and bottom of the Fabric D square.

3 Block Assembly 1. Sew 1 1 /2 x 10 1 /2 Fabric H strips to opposite sides of a Fabric D square. Sew 1 1 /2 x 12 1 /2 Fabric H strips to the top and bottom of the Fabric D square. Repeat to make (5) D blocks total. 2. Repeat step 1 using the 1 1 /2 x 10 1 /2 Fabric B strips, the 1 1 /2 x 12 1 /2 Fabric B strips and the Fabric A squares to make (4) A blocks total. 3. Repeat step 1 using the 1 1 /2 x 10 1 /2 Fabric L strips, the 1 1 /2 x 12 1 /2 Fabric L strips and the Fabric C squares to make (4) C blocks total. Quilt Assembly & Finishing 4 Referring to the photo and quilt layout diagram for placement guidance, lay out the triangles and blocks in 11 diagonal rows as shown. 5. Join the triangles and blocks in each row. 6. Join the rows to complete the quilt top center. 7. Join the Fabric B strips end to end to make a long strip. Measure the length of the quilt top. Cut two Fabric B strips to this length and sew them to the sides of the quilt top. Measure the width of the quilt top. Cut two Fabric B strips to this length and sew them to the top and bottom of the quilt top to complete the outer border. 8. Layer the quilt top with batting and backing; baste. Quilt as desired. Using the 2 1 /2 -wide Fabric L strips, bind the edges to finish. QUILT LAYOUT DIAGRAM

4 Apron by Stacey Day featuring the Fresh Pick collection by Susy Pilgrim Waters for P&B Textiles Apron size: approx. 20 square Yardage Fabric A CWEA 200 E* 2 /3 yard Fabric B FPIC 454 W 3 /8 yard Fabric C FPIC 456 W 1 /2 yard Fabric D FPIC 453 MU 3 /8 yard or 1 FQ * from the Color Weave collection Cutting You may wish to wash your fabrics first. From Fabric A (CWEA 200 E) cut: (1) rectangle 19 x 21 for the Main skirt From Fabric B (FPIC 454 W) cut: (1) rectangle 9 x 25 for the Ruffle From Fabric C (FPIC 456 W) cut: (2) strips 5 x 31 for the Waistband straps (2) strips 3 x 19 for the Waistband From Fabric D (FPIC 453 MU) cut: (1) rectangle 12 x 19 for the Pocket Assembly All seams are 1 /2 unless otherwise indicated. Seams will be fully enclosed, so there is no need to serge or finish the raw edges of the pieces before sewing. Make the Apron Skirt 1. Take the pocket piece and measure in 6 from either side. Using a removable marking pen, draw a line from top to bottom of the pocket. These lines are the stitching lines Turn the top raw edge of the pocket piece down 1 /2 to the wrong side and press. Fold the top edge down 1 /2 again and press. Topstitch across the top 1 /8 and again 3 /8 from the folded edge. 3. Lay the right side of the pocket piece against the wrong side of the main skirt piece so that the bottom raw edge of the pocket is aligned with the bottom raw edge of the main skirt. Sew a 1 /2 seam across the bottom and press the seam open. 4. Fold the pocket piece to the right side of the main skirt piece, and press the folded seam flat. Topstitch 1 /8 and again 3 /8 from the fold. This will finish the bottom hem. 5. Topstitch the pocket piece to the main skirt, following the pressed stitching line from step 1. The pocket will now have three sections. From this point on, treat the pocket and main skirt as a single piece the apron skirt. Wrong side of Main Skirt Right side of Main Skirt Wrong Side of Pocket Topstitch Topstitch Topstitch 6. Turn the raw edges of sides of the apron skirt 1 /4 to the wrong side and press. Turn the sides 1 /4 again, and topstitch to finish the sides.

5 Apron instructions continued from flap. Make the Ruffle 7. Take the ruffle piece and fold it in half right sides together, matching the raw edges. Sew down the side raw edges. Turn the ruffle piece right side out and press. Fold in half widthwise and mark the center with a pin. 8. Baste a line across the top raw edge of the ruffle 1/4 from the raw edge, and then again 3/8 from the top raw edge, leaving a long tail at either end. 12. Sew the remaining waistband piece, now the waistband front, to the top of the apron skirt right sides together and flip it right side up. Press the seam allowance towards the top of the waistband front. Remove all basting stitches from the ruffle and apron skirt. Wrong side of waistband front Wrong side of ruffle Baste FOLD Center Right side of Ruffle 9. Pin the ruffle to the right side of the apron skirt at the center and both ends, matching the top raw edges. Gather the ruffle by pulling the basting threads until the raw edge of the ruffle measures the same length as the top raw edge of the apron skirt. Distribute the gathers evenly across the top and baste the ruffle to the apron skirt 1 /2 from the raw edge. Set aside for now. Center Make the Waistband 10. Take the waistband strap pieces and fold the long sides 1 /2 to the wrong side. Fold one short side 1 /2 and then fold the entire strap wrong sides together, matching folds. Press flat and then topstitch around the waistband straps 1 /8 and then again 3 /8 from the edges. Wrong side of Waistband Strap FOLD Topstitch 11. Take one of the waistband pieces and fold one of the long raw edges up 1 /2 to the wrong side of the piece. Press the fold. This will be the waistband lining piece. Set aside for now. 13. Place the waistband straps on top of the waistband front, matching the raw edges of the waistband straps with the raw edges of the side of the waistband piece and baste in place. Baste Baste 14. Place the waistband lining piece right sides together with the waistband, over the straps and matching the top and side raw edges. Sew across the top long raw edge and down both sides of the waistband, backstitching at the sides to have a secure double stitched seam. Turn the waistband right sides out and press. The waistband lining will be on the back of the apron and the waistband straps will be free. 15. Pin the folded side of the waistband lining over the seam allowance so that all the raw edges are hidden and enclosed in the waistband. Hand sew the waistband lining to the wrong side of the apron. Topstitch the sides and top of the finished waistband 1/8 and then again 3 /8 from the edge to finish. Wrong side of Waistband Lining

Potholders by Stacey Day featuring the Fresh Pick collection by Susy Pilgrim Waters for P&B Textiles Potholder size: 7 1 /2 square Yardage Fabric A CWEA 200 E 1/4 yard Fabric B FPIC 456 W 1/8 yard

6 Potholders by Stacey Day featuring the Fresh Pick collection by Susy Pilgrim Waters for P&B Textiles Potholder size: 7 1 /2 square Yardage Fabric A CWEA 200 E 1/4 yard Fabric B FPIC 456 W 1/8 yard Fabric C FPIC 454 W 1/8 yard Fabric D FPIC 455 R 1/8 yard Fabric E FPIC 455 O 1/8 yard Fabric F FPIC 456 T 1 /8 yard Fabric G FPIC 456 AU 1 /8 yard Backing any FPIC fabric 1 /4 yard Insul-Bright or similar insulating material 1 /4 yard Block Assembly 1. Sew (8) of the Fabric A 1 3 /4 squares to (8) Fabric B 1 3 /4 squares. Repeat for the remaining Fabric A 1 3 /4 squares and (8) of the Fabric C 1 3 /4 squares to make (8) two-patch pieces. 2. Sew (4) of the Fabric B squares to the (4) Fabric D squares, and the remaining Fabric B squares to the (4) Fabric F squares to make (8) two-patch pieces. Repeat for the Fabric C squares, sewing them to the Fabric E and Fabric G squares to make (8) two-patch pieces. Cutting All strips are cut across the width of the fabric. From Fabric A (CWEA 200 E), cut: (1) 3 x 42 strip; cut into (16) 1 3 /4 x 3 rectangles, and (4) 3 squares (1) 1 3 /4 x 42 strip; cut into (16) 1 3 /4 squares From both Fabric B (FPIC 456 W) and Fabric C (FPIC 454 W), cut: (2) 1 3 /4 x 42 strip; cut into (16) 1 3 /4 squares and (8) 1 3 /4 x 3 rectangles 3. Sew the Fabric A/B two-patch pieces from step 1 to the Fabric B/D and Fabric B/F two-patch pieces from step 2 to make (8) corner 4-patches. Repeat for the Fabric A/C two-patch pieces, sewing them to the Fabric C/E and Fabric C/G two-patch pieces to make (8) corner pieces. From each Fabric D (FPIC 455 R), Fabric E (FPIC 455 O), Fabric F (FPIC 456 T) and Fabric G (FPIC 456 AU), cut: (1) 1 3 /4 x 42 strip; cut (4) 1 3 /4 squares and (1) 1 3 /4 x 34 strip (1) 1 3 /4 x 5 rectangle From Backing and Insul-Bright, cut: (4) 8 1 /2 squares

4. Sew the Fabric A 1 3 /4 x 3 rectangle to the Fabric B and Fabric C 1 3 /4 x 3 rectangles, to make (8) of each. 8.

Fold the strip in half to make a loop and baste the raw edges together.

Sew the Fabric A 3 squares, corner pieces, and rectangle pieces together as shown, matching fabrics, into four individual blocks. 9. Bind each potholder using the matching 1 3 /4 x 34 strip.

Place the shiny side of the Insul-Bright square against the wrong side of the backing.

7 4. Sew the Fabric A 1 3 /4 x 3 rectangle to the Fabric B and Fabric C 1 3 /4 x 3 rectangles, to make (8) of each. 8. Take the 1 3 /4 x 5 rectangles and fold the long edges 1 /4 to the wrong side and press. Fold in half lengthwise and edgestich the folded side closed to make a strip. Fold the strip in half to make a loop and baste the raw edges together. Sew the loop to the wrong side of the potholder in one of the rounded corners, matching the raw edges of the loop with the potholder. 5. Sew the Fabric A 3 squares, corner pieces, and rectangle pieces together as shown, matching fabrics, into four individual blocks. 9. Bind each potholder using the matching 1 3 /4 x 34 strip. Fold the loop up so it extends past the finished curve of the potholder and stitch in place at the binding seam. 6. Place the shiny side of the Insul-Bright square against the wrong side of the backing. Place a single or double layer of regular batting on top of the Insul-Bright, then place one of the blocks right side up on the batting. Stitch in the ditch to secure the layers. Minimal quilting is recommended to keep the integrity of the Insul-Bright intact. A double layer of batting will be more heat resistant than a single layer. The potholders are heat resistant when the backing side is placed against the hot object. Use caution and common sense when handling hot objects. Not for use by children. Wash in cold water and hang to dry. 7. Take a large spool of thread or similar round object and place it in the corner of a block. Trace around the spool to mark the round corners. Round all four corners of each block as shown and trim.

8 Fabric Collection by Susy Pilgrim Waters FPIC 452 MU Shown selvage to selvage FPIC 453 MU Shown at 10% scale FPIC 454 G FPIC 454 W FPIC 457 R FPIC 457 W FPIC 455 K FPIC 455 O FPIC 455 R FPIC 456 AU FPIC 456 T FPIC 456 W FPIC 458 G FPIC 458 R FPIC 458 S FPIC 459 G P&B Textiles u u Washington St., Pawtucket, RI u 253 W. 35th St., 11th floor, New York, NY % cotton u Cold wash & dry u 43 / 44 u Colors may vary due to printing process All fabrics shown at 25% scale except main prints 814 & /14

Still Life Elegance Quilt by Stacey Day

Still Life Elegance Quilt by Stacey Day Elegance Quilt by Stacey Day Table Runner, Placemat & Mug Rug by Larene Smith Elegance Quilt by Stacey Day featuring the Still Life collection by P&B Textiles Quilt Size: 61 square Yardage Fabric A SLIF