LANIER R/C. 40% Edge 540T WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY! THIS IS NOT A BEGINNERS AIRPLANE LIMITED WARRANTY

Transcription

1 LANIER R/C 40% Edge 540T WARNING! THIS IS NOT A TOY! THIS IS NOT A BEGINNERS AIRPLANE This R/C kit and the model you will build from it is not a toy! It is capable of serious bodily harm and property damage. It is your responsibility, and yours alone - to build this kit correctly, properly install all R/C. components and flying gear (engine, tank, radio, pushrods, etc. and to test the model and fly it only with experienced, competent help, using common sense and in accordance with all safety standards as set forth in the Academy of Model Aeronautics Safety Code. It is suggested that you join the AMA and become properly insured before attempting to fly this model. If you are just starting R/C modeling, consult your local hobby dealer or write to the Academy of Model Aeronautics to find an experienced instructor in your area. Write to : Academy of Model Aeronautics, 5151 Memorial Dr, Muncie, IN LIMITED WARRANTY Lanier R/C is proud of the care and attention that goes into the manufacture of parts for its model kits. The company warrants that for a period of 30 days, it will replace, at the buyers request, any parts or material shown to the company's satisfaction to have been defective in workmanship or material at the time of purchase. No other warranty of any kind, expressed or implied, is made with respect to the merchandise sold by the company. The buyer acknowledges and understands that he is purchasing only a component kit from which the buyer will himself construct a finished flying model airplane. The company is neither the manufacturer of such a flying model airplane, nor a seller of it. The buyer hereby assumes the risk and all liability for personal or property damage or injury arising out of the buyers use of the components or the finished flying model airplane, whenever any such damage or injury shall occur. Any action brought forth against the company, based on the breach of the contract of sale to the buyer, or on any alleged warranty thereunder, must be brought within one year of the date of such sale, or there after be barred. This one year limitation is imposed by agreement of the parties as permitted by the laws of the state of Georgia

2 INTRODUCTION Lanier R/C is proud of its line of fine aerobatic airplanes. Thank you for purchasing our kit. Our Edge 540T is yet another one of those aerobatic marvels, that when powered adequately, will perform precise and smooth maneuvers that will enhance your flying skills. The bigger they are, the better and easier they fly. We have found this to be true with all our large airplanes. necessary to file out the small 1/16 radii to sharpen up the corners. Using a flat file, it only takes a few passes. Also, sand and clean up all the burred and ragged edges. Cut the lands on the centerpieces of the lighting holes with a razor saw. Do not try to twist out. Note: it is not necessary to file out the radii where the 1/8 bulkheads fit into the fuselage sides. In the kit expect to find precise laser cut and CNC router parts. We have gone to great lengths to assure accuracy with parts that fit, making assembly fun instead of work. As you progress through the assembly of this airplane, you will soon discover this, and many more desirable building features. Before starting construction, look over the plans and read these building instructions to familiarize you with what is required. There are some sequential steps that are important and if not followed could cause frustration on your part. We urge you to do this. Although the plans are not full size, the parts are. Use the plans as a reference to see what is required and where the parts are located. You are not required to build any parts over the them. The plans, pictures, coupled with the written instructions will lead you to a successfully completed airframe. BUILDING THE FUSELAGE Locate the router cut fuselage sides, FS1 and FS2. Also locate the fuselage top former, FT1, FT2 and the F1 and F2 formers. These parts will require some preparatory work before construction can began. Because the router cannot make sharp corners, it will be 1 1. Locate the two EB1 supports. File out the router radii where necessary. Clean up the burred and ragged edges with a sanding block. They are made extra long to accommodate different engines sizes.

3 The EB1 sides in the kit may look slightly different than those shown in the photos, but are the same outside configuration. 3. Locate F1 and F2 and assemble EB1 to it by passing the front end through the hole at an angle. Let the bottom notch fall into the notch on the bulkhead and bring the top over against the side. Now install the other EB1 using the same method. 2. Find the two aluminum angles, file off the burrs and roughen both outside surfaces. Mix up some 5-min epoxy and bond them to the EB1 flush with the bottom edge and front edge. You will need a RH and a LH part. Next drill 3 holes in each and install #6 x 32 x ½ bolts, flat washers and lock nuts in each hole. You can drill the holes in the angle, position them, and match drill the holes through the wood and use the bolts to hold the angle while the epoxy is curing. Install F2 in its location sliding it down through the slots in EB1. Slide it down in egg crate fashion until the bottom edge is ¼ below the EB1. Use the LG1 as a surface gauge to ensure the proper location. Do not 2

4 glue together at this time. Set aside until it is required for fuselage assembly. the joint on both sides. The fuselage sides are mated in the same way. Later, the joint in the fuselage sides will be removed, on each side, to eliminate some weight. Handle the piece carefully as it is fragile at this point. 5. Locate 2, ¼ x 42 sq. hardwood sticks and cut them off to 39. Glue each one to the edge of the top former flush with the front end on each side. FINGER JOINT 4. Locate the top former pieces, FT1 and FT2. These parts will go together with a specially designed finger joint to assure accuracy. Sand the mating surfaces to remove the burrs and loose wood. Lay the parts down on a flat surface and carefully align them. Press them together if possible. If not, hammer them together using a block of wood to spread out the load and keep from denting the wood. With the two surfaces mated and level, run thin CA around Use weights and thin CA to hold them in place. 3

5 flush to the bottom edge of the fuselage side. 8. Note that these rails ends at the back edge of the bulkhead slots. 6. Place the top former on a flat surface and set in the pre-assemble engine box with bulkheads in the slots provided. Tack glue the bulkheads to the top former to hold them in place. Now locate F3, F4, F5, F6 and F7. Place them in the slots provided, tack gluing them at the center only. Make sure they are centrally located and down against the top former. Why only tack them only in the center? So they can move, in case they are warped, and then easily inserted in the slots in the fuselage sides. 7. Locate three ¼ sq. x48 hardwood sticks and two 36 sticks. Using thin CA, glue these 9. The lower rail ends in the back at the forward edge of the slots. The 48 rail at the bottom is not long enough and will have to be joined with an extra piece making a scarf joint. Clamp the rail in place and run thin CA along the inside edge. run just past F4. Don t forget, you will need LH and RH sides. 4

6 10. Glue FS5 doubler, on the inside of both sides with white glue. Use the phenolic wing tube to align it. place, install FT4 at the tail end. It will be difficult to do with both sides in place. 11. Place the top former, with bulkheads tacked in place, on a flat surface and trial fit the sides. It will take a little sanding here and there but make sure they go together and fit properly. The bulkheads enter the sides at a 5 degree angle, so the slots in the sides will have to be sanded at a slight angle to help insertion. When you are satisfied with the fit, tack glue the sides at each bulkhead and top former with thick CA. Make sure they are firmly in place. 11. Before tack gluing the other sides in 12. Before tack gluing the other side in place, install the wing tube through the four holes to align the unglued side. Having four holes in perfect alignment is next to impossible. A Dremel Motor with a drum sander will help remove some of the material if necessary. Once the side is aligned, tack glue it in place with thick CA as you did on the far side. 13. Install tail end former F8 and tack Glue in place. Locate the four FS6 s, servo 5

7 mounting screw backup pieces and glue them in on either end of the servo mounting holes, inside on both sides. 14. You are now ready to glue the bulkheads to the sides and top former. Use a good grade of aliphatic resin Glue such as GluIt. Fill a glue gun and make sure every seam and joint has been glued. This will take time. Do not glue F2 to motor box sides. It may be warped. When installing LG1 you may have to move it some. 15. Install LG1, landing gear support, with epoxy. Centrally locate it and apply epoxy to fore and aft edges, the aluminum angle and motor box side edges. Use masking tape to hold it in place. 17. Epoxy in the tail wheel mount assy. Clamp in place until cured. 18. Install the ¼ sq. stringers in the notches on the bottom of the fuselage. The three in the center are balsa and the two on the outside are hardwood. Install the center stringer first working out toward the sides. 16. Build up the tail wheel mounting assy. Locate TW1, TW2, and the 1 x 1 x 1-1/2 block. Centrally locate the block over the hole in TW1 and epoxy in place. Locate TW2 and epoxy in front of the block. This will act as a shelf to support the lower rear stringers. 6 Because the wood is not long enough for the entire length, you will have to splice it to

8 make a longer piece. Lay one end over the other and make a diagonal cut with a razor saw. Lay down a small piece of wax paper. Apply thick CA glue; hold the joint against a straightedge until cured and then sand smooth. Do not let the joints fall in the same area. to ensure this. Glue a ¼ stringer on the top notch to hold them there. 19. Locate bulkheads 4A, 5A, 5B, 6A, 6B, and 7A, in laser cut sheet 1A. Install them in their respective slots on top of the fuselage, centrally locating them from side to side. Make sure they are firmly down against the top former. Take care that end bulkheads 5A and 7A are perpendicular. Use a square 20. Find bulkhead 4A, locate the bottom edge in the slots and tip back until it touches 5A. Use thick CA or white glue and glue all the ¼ sq. balsa stringers in place. Save the scrap ends for the hatch. Cut the ends so that they glue up flat against the backside of 4A. When cured, sand 4A, which is a little large, to conform with the cone shape of the turtle deck, using a long sanding stick. It is also important that the stringers be sanded so the sheeting will lay flat against them. 7

9 21. Before gluing the sheeting in place, cut some short pieces of ¼ sq. balsa and glue in between the bulkheads along the sides to help support and keep it in line. Glue them flush with the inside edge of the fuselage side. shown in the sketch. When installing the sheeting on the turtle deck, apply white glue to all the stringers and bulkheads. Apply thick CA glue to the bottom edge of the sheet and on the inner edge of the top stringer. Position the sheet on the fuselage side and allow the CA to cure. Bend the sheet over and hold until CA cures on the top stringer. If necessary wet with ammonia and water to help form it better. When cured, trim off the sheet down the centerline of the top stringer. Now do the other side. Fill in the little space left at the top of former 4A. 22. The following sketch shows the 3/32 x 4 sheet balsa layout required to sheet From the desk of: Jerry Smith Trim off the ends and sand flush with former 4A and 7A. 23 Note the router cuts in the fuselage side on either side of the finger joint. Strike a line on the outer edge of each top and bottom radii cut. Using a razor saw cut out the finger joint section on each side of the fuselage. This cut out section is no longer required and will lighten the fuselage some. the turtle deck. Two are required. Edge glue the balsa with thin CA and then cut as 8

10 25. Glue in FS3 on either side of the fuselage at the stab mount. 24. Locate DB1 and DB2 on sheet 2 of the laser cut parts. Using epoxy, glue them over the joints, top and bottom, that remain after cutting out the finger joint. Put DB1 on the bottom and DB2 on the top on both sides. It is important to have these doublers installed. 26. Find the other aluminum angle, roughen both sides of the outer flanges and epoxy it in against F1 and LG1 as shown in the photo. Next drill 3 holes and install #6 x 32 x ½ bolts, flat washers and lock nuts in each hole as described in step This completes the fuselage for the most part. You will need it again when building the front hatch, canopy frame and other installation requirements. 9

11 BUILDING THE HATCH 1. Locate hatch formers F1A, F1B, F1C. Tape two strips of wax paper, on either side where the side rails will be glued to the formers. Place the formers in their respective slots centrally locating them with the fuselage sides. Lightly tack glue F1C in place. Former F1A can be held in place by using two pieces of ¼ sq. hardwood clamped to the engine box sides. This will help keep it flush with F1 and perpendicular as well. 3. Install the ¼ sq. balsa stringers in the provided slots. Use the scrap pieces left over from the turtledeck stringers. When cured trim them off flush on each end. 2. Glue in the two ¼ hardwood side rails between F1A and F1C. Locate two C5 s and glue them against the rail centered over the square hole. Find the C3 and C4 gussets and glue them in the four corners. Use a piece of scrap 1/8 under each to space them up from the top former of the fuselage when gluing. 4. Remove the hatch and sand the top edge of the side rails to conform with the shape of the hatch formers 10

12 5. Remount the hatch, tack glue former F1C in place again and tape F1A to F1. Sheet the hatch using 3/32 x 4 sheet balsa. Use the same procedure as specified when sheeting the turtledeck. Keep all the joints in the sheeting over a stringer. If necessary, wet the balsa with ammonia and water to help bend it around the sharp curve on the sides. 6. When cured, remove the hatch and sand the ends of the sheeting flush with the end formers. 7. Turn the hatch up-side-down and install C6, on each side, in the square hole in C5. Use epoxy. Make sure they are perpendicular to the bottom surface of the hatch. Do not let epoxy blob up on the outside surface. This completes the hatch. Lay it aside until assembly of inserts. 8. Install the fuel tank mount. Locate the front in the slots provided in F2 with the back side resting on the wing spar tube. Epoxy in place to make sure it is secure. 11

13 BUILDING THE STAB AND ELEVATOR Before sheeting the stab cores, there is some preparatory work to do on them. Unpack them carefully and determine LH and RH bottom side and mark them. 4. Turn the cores over and dig the servo lead groove, 1/2 x 3/8 deep as described in step Note the diagram on the plans showing the servo mounting locations. Lay these out on the cores according to the dimensions shown. Measure carefully. 2. The holes for the servos go all the way through the stab. The servo mounts are inset in the foam, fore and aft. The best way to dig out these insets is to make a cut on each side with a sharp razor. Then using a flat blade screwdriver dig the foam out between the cuts to the depth required, (5/16 ). 5. You have now completed preparatory work on the cores and are ready to apply the sheeting. 6. Locate 8 sheets 1/16 x 4 x 42 and cut them in half giving you 16 sheets 21 long. True up the edges, lay them on a flat surface and tape 4 of them together, edge to edge. Run a length of tape entirely down each seam. 3. Locate the 5/16 sq. stock and cut 8 pieces 1-7/8 long. Place them in the grooves and trial fit a servo to make sure it will fit. When satisfied, epoxy all the mounts in place making sure they are flush with the foam surface. Photo shows one sheet slightly short. Make them all the same length. Make up four skins as described above. 12

14 curing over night. Remove and sand the LE and ends flush with the foam core. 11. Locate the servo mounting holes by laying out as shown on the diagram. Start with a small hole and enlarge until you can see where you are going to make sure. 7. Using the packing outline as a template, with the tape side down, mark around it allowing an extra ¼ more on the ends and leading edge. Now trim off the excess. Layout another one with the tape side up, mark and trim off. The skins are ready to be applied to one panel. No need to edge glue them, the tape will hold until the glue is cured. 8. Pick out a good flat spot on the workbench. Lay one side of the foam core packing down. Place wax paper in the packing. 9. Lay one of the taped skins on the wax paper with the taped side facing down. Dampen the skin with a damp cloth. Using PROBOND, polyurethane glue (available at most building stores), spread a thin layer on the skin surface. Use a card to squeegee it around evenly. Now dampen the core that will come in contact and lay it on the skin. Repeat the process for the other side making sure the tape is facing out. 11. Match the end root of each sheeted panel and tape together. Refer to the Stab/Elevator diagram and note the dotted line 7-1/2 at the widest part of the stab and 3 at the tip. Construct a line thru all three points. Remove tape from panels. 10. Align the trailing edge flush with each other and the foam core. Align the ends and leading edge. Apply lots of weight. A heavy board, to spread out the load, with four cement blocks ought to do it. Allow 13

15 On the bottom side only, round out a hole in each panel. Use a Dremel Motor with a drum sander. Do not go all the way through the top skin. 12. Mount a panel in the foam packing, to hold it level, and tape it in place. Now saw off each elevator. Lightly sand the saw edges on the stab TE and the two elevators LE. 13. Before joining the two stab panels together, you will need a hole for the servo leads to exit. 14. Join the two panels by first pinning down a 1/2 x 1-1/2 x 42 balsa stick on a flat surface. Spread white glue on the TE of each panel. Use 30 min epoxy on the root ends and join them together in the vertical position. This will ensure a straight TE on the stab. Sand the ends flush with the foam core. Cap the LE with a 3/8 x 7/8 x 42 balsa stick. Use white glue and tape in place. When cured, shape the LE. Use a small block plane to shape and round it off. Then use a long sanding bar and finish shaping it. 14

16 18. Find the ½ x 1-1/2 x 42 stick of balsa and cut it into two equal lengths. Glue them on the LE of each elevator. Layout the LE as defined in step 15. Layout and drill the 3/16 hinge holes, then plane and sand as before. 15. Find the center at each end of the TE and stick a pin in them. Lay a straightedge against the pins and draw a centerline. Project a 35 degree line each way from the centerline on both ends. Now draw a line on each side connecting the endpoint of each angle. Before planning and shaping the TE, locate and drill the 3/16 hinge holes. See Building the Fin and Rudder, step 7, for a different method of hinge drilling. 16. Plane off the excess material to the established lines. Sand true and smooth. Locate the laser cut ST1 and glue them on each tip. Use white glue and tape to hold them. When cured sand flush all the way around. 19. Locate the 1/8 laser cut parts EL1 and EL2 and glue them on at their respective locations. Use white glue and tape to hold them in place. When cured, sand flush with matching surface. 20. Fiberglass the center section of the stab with 1-1/2 wide 2 oz. Cloth using 30 min. epoxy thinned down with 90% Isopropyl alcohol. 21. Set the stab and elevators aside for Now. Some future work and final sanding will be required to complete them for covering. BUILDING THE FIN AND RUDDER 17. The elevators are finished much the same way as the stab TE. Measure 18-1/4 from the tip inboard and cut off at a 30 degree angle. Make sure the elevator is in the packing to hold it level. 1. Locate the fin and rudder foam core. Note the diagram on the plan for laying out the balsa sheet skin. Four 1/16 x 4 x 42 sheets are required for the 25 and 15 pieces. One sheet yielding a 25 and 15 piece. One sheet 1/16 x 4 x 42 will yield two 18 pieces and two 5 pieces. Cut the 15

17 two 5 pieces down the center making four pieces 2 x 5. You are now ready to true up the edges and tape the skin pieces together as shown in the diagram. 2. Lay the sheet pieces and tape them together as described in step 4 of Building the Stab and Elevator. 5. Trim off the excess sheet at the top, LE and bottom flush with the foam core. Lay the fin/rudder in a piece of foam packing and tape in place. Lay out the cutting lines as shown in the diagram on the plan sheet. Position the packing on the skin and mark around the outline, allowing extra material at the LE, top and bottom. Trim off the excess material. The skin is now ready to glue to the foam core. 3. Follow the same procedure as described in steps 7, 8, 9, and 10 of Building the Stab and Elevator for applying the skin to the foam core. 6. Block sand the sawn edges and ready them for the cap pieces. 7. Locate two ½ x 1-5/8 x 48 balsa sticks. Lay one on top of the other, offset the top one by 3/16 at one end, and tape together. Find the center at each end 4. The most important part when using this method of gluing on the skin is to apply plenty of weight, distributed as evenly as possible. We recommend using cinder blocks or 2 x 15 x 15 cement pads. Be sure you are working on a flat surface. end and draw a center line. Layout and drill the 3/16 hinge holes with a drill press. Hole 16

18 spacing is: 1-1/2 starting at the top and 5 equal spaces for the next 2 and 5-7/8 to the last one. This will give you perfect hinge alignment. Keep in mind the upper piece is the fin LE and the lower one the rudder TE. Mark them for identification later on. 8. Band saw a taper off from each side leaving 1/16, on each edge, and 1/8 flat on the top. Do both pieces matching them. 9. Locate laser cut piece RU2 and white glue in place. Now glue on rudder LE cap centering it. Use tape to hold it until cured. 10. Glue on RU1 with white glue. Sand all capping flush with the adjacent surfaces. 11. Glue the fin TE capping on keeping the 1-1/2 hole location end flush with the top of the fin. Glue on ST1. Sand all the surfaces flush with the adjacent surfaces. Set aside for the time being. 12. Locate laser cut parts FT3, and the two FS3 s. Glue the FS3 side pieces on keeping them perpendicular on a flat surface. 13. Trial fit the stab in the fuselage saddle. Some sanding may be necessary to make it seat properly. When satisfied, epoxy it in place. Make sure it is centered and parallel with the wing. 14. Cut a piece of ¼ sq. balsa 3 long and glue it to F7 with the top edge flush with the top former FT Trial fit the stab cover assembly taping it in place temporarily. Now locate and tape the fin in place against the fuselage, centering the LE of the fin between the sides. Trace a line around the base of the fin. Glue on 2 pieces of ¼ sq. balsa to anchor the fairing cover. Offset them 1/32 in from the edge on each side. 17

19 17. Locate laser cut former 7B and glue it on the former 7A. Centrally locate it; will give you a 1/32 ledge for the tail fairing TF Epoxy on the fin aligning it on the mark you made earlier. 19. Locate the tail fairing cover TF1 and trial fit it. It may or may not need some fitting depending on the building tolerance. When satisfied, glue it in place with thick CA. Do one side at a time. Fill any cracks or seams and blend with Balsa Magic filler. BUILDING THE WINGS 1. Unpack the wing foam cores and inspect them. Any small ridges you find lightly sand with 220 paper. Handle them carefully as the trailing edges are fragile. There is no dihedral so there is no LH and RH panel. They are both the same. 16. Epoxy on the stab cover FT3. Make sure it is aligned properly. 2. Find 10, ¼ sq. x 48 hardwood sticks. Cut 2 sticks into 4 equal parts. Splice a 12 piece on the end of each (8) 48 sticks. You will need 8 spars 58 long. Splice by over lapping the spars by 1-1/2, side by side, 18

20 make a diagonal cut with a razor saw, glue the ends together against a straightedge to ensure straightness. Use thick CA. location on the foam core. LH and RH panels are required from this point on. 5. Using a straightedge and sharp razor, cut around the mounting inserts and servo well. Dig out, using a flat screwdriver, the mounting grooves 5/16 deep and servo well to a depth to satisfy mounting the servo. Use a vacuum sweeper hose to catch the messy Styrofoam bits while digging. 3. Place a foam core packing on a flat surface and lay a foam core into it. Trial fit the spars in the slots to make sure they will fit. When satisfied, lay a bead of white glue down the center of each spar slot and press the spar into it. Now do the other side and the other wing panel. Always keep a foam packing under the core when working on it. 4. Note the layout diagram on the plans that define the location of the wing servo mounting. Carefully layout each servo well 6. Locate the 5/16 sq. x 42 stick and cut off 12 pieces, 1-7/8 long. Epoxy these into the servo mounting grooves. Make sure they are flush with the foam surface. 7. Turn the core over and cut, dig, the slot for the servo connectors. See the diagram Wing Panel Servo Layout for location. When cutting the slot be sure to make an entry at each servo well. 19

21 8. Locate the two phenolic wing spar sleeves. Cover the periphery with white glue and shove into the foam core hole with a twisting motion. Leave approx. 3/16 extending from the core. Wipe off excess glue around the sleeve. Do both wing panels. 9. Find the laser cut W2 s and epoxy them in place against the foam at the out board end of the spar sleeve through the small square hole. 10. Make up four skins using the 3/32 x 4 x 24 and 3/32 x 4 x 36 balsa sheets. Because the wing panels are longer than the standard sheet sizes, they must be butted together much like laying a hardwood floor. Start with a 24 and 36 sheet and butt them end-to-end against a straightedge. Now tape the joint with masking tape. Alternate the joint on the next row. Avoid trimming the sheet edges as much as possible and square the ends that mate. If sheets are cambered, lay camber into camber. Pull wood together at seams and apply tape to hold. Run tape down entire seam of joints. This will do two things for you. Hold the wood pieces together and keep the glue from running through the joint and sticking to the foam. When making up the next skin, tape the 36 and 17 piece on the top upper right side to make the opposite side Place the wing packing on the skin and draw around the outline. Allow material on the ends and leading edge. Cut the trailing edge right on the line. Keep it straight. Note: The tape is the outside of the skin. Do not glue it against the foam 12. Place one side of the packing on a flat building surface. Lay one of the cut-toshape skins in it, tape side down. Spread a thin coat of ProBond Polyurethane Glue on the entire surface. Moisten the foam core, the side that will come in contact with the glue, with a damp rag. Lay it on the skin. Repeat the process for the topside. Align the packing and core carefully. Now place heavy weights on top. A word about the weight required to do a good job. Place a heavy board the length of the wing panel. We have used bricks, cement stepping stones, cinder blocks and etc. Pile on at least a couple hundred pounds evenly across the board. Allow it to cure over night. 13. Remove the sheeted panel from the packing and trim the sheeting flush with the foam on the ends and LE. 14. Cap the LE with a 3/8 x ¾ x 48

22 stick. You will have to splice an 8 piece on the end before gluing and taping in place. sticks. Lay one on top of the other, offset the top one by 3/16 align at one end. and tape together Find the center at each 15. While that is curing layout the aileron. Draw a line on the aft edge of the back wing spar. This can be located by looking at the spar on each end of the panel. Measuring from the wing tip, place a mark at 47-5/8 on the line. From that point, construct a line 104 degree, included angle, to the TE. 16. Place the wing panel in a packing and tape in place. Using a band saw, cut the aileron from the wing panel. Leave the aileron in the packing piece and remove 1 from the LE. Lightly block sand the sawn edges. 17. Locate the laser cut part W3 and glue in on the wing TE inset. Use white glue and tape to hold in place. end and draw a center line. Layout and drill the 3/16 hinge holes, 2 from the end and 6-3/16 equal spaces there after for a total of 8 hinges. This will give you perfect hinge alignment. Keep in mind the upper piece is the aileron LE and the lower one the wing TE. Mark them for identification later on. 19. Band saw the taper off from each side leaving 1/16 on each side and 1/8 flat on the top. 18. Locate two ½ x 1-3/4 x 48 balsa 21

23 Remember you marked it? Place the end with the 2 hinge hole spacing next to the wing inset W3, apply glue, center, and hold in place with tape. When cured, plane and sand down flush with top and bottom surface. Do the same on the aileron. Sand the ends of the cap flush with the foam on both ends. 22. Lay a wing panel on the workbench in a foam packing with the bottom side up. How can you tell which is the bottom side? Look at the inboard end of the panel and locate the servo connector channel. This is the topside. Refer to the Wing Panel Layout for Servo Mounting and cut out a rectangular hole for the servo. I hope you layed them out with accuracy. 20. Glue on the aileron leading edge cap. Keep the bottom edge flush with the aileron on the in board end. Make sure it is centered at each end. Hold in place with tape. 21. Now glue on the wing TE cap. 22

24 23. Plane, shape, and sand the LE to the configuration shown on the plans. 24. Locate the laser cut parts W4, (Wing tip) W5, and W6 (aileron ends). Glue them in place and sand flush all around. 25. Rough sand the wing panels and lay them aside. Do not glue on the W1 root rib yet. BUILDING THE CANOPY 1. Build the canopy right on the fuselage. Place the forward hatch on the fuselage and tape in place. Locate C1 and tape it to the end of the hatch. Tape C2 to the end of the 2. Glue in the laser cut gussets C3 and C4. C3 in the front and C4 in the rear. Cut a 4-1/2 and 8 piece of ¼ sq. hardwood. Glue the 8 piece against C1 between the gussets and the 4-1/2 piece against C2 between the gussets. Lay it flat with the fuselage surface gluing the bottom edge to C2. Use wax paper to keep from sticking. turtle deck. Centrally locate both parts. Find ¼ hardwood sticks as specified in the Material List. Fit and glue them between the two bulkheads offsetting them in from the fuselage sides to allow for canopy thickness. Put a small piece of wax paper under each glue joint. 3. Tape the side rails in place to maintain uniform offset distance from the edge. Cut and fit in the cross braces and diagonals using ¼ sq. hardwood. 23

25 4. Find six C5 parts and locate them over the center of each slot in the fuselage. Glue them against the side rail. Shim them up 1/64 so they are flush with the top of the side rail. 7. Locate six C6, lightly sand off the charred edges, and epoxy one in each of the slots in C5. Make sure they are perpendicular to the base. 5. Before lifting the canopy base from the fuselage sheet the top surface with 3/32 x 4 sheeting. You will need two 24 sheets and one 36 sheet. Start at the back with the 36 sheet. Use white glue. 8. Place the canopy base on the fuselage. Laminate two C7 together and place under each C6 as a spacer. Work from the inside, glue to fuselage side only. 6. Sand the top surfaces and edges. Lift the base from the fuselage and turn it over. 24

26 9. Finish the mounting requirements for the front hatch, as specified here, when completing the canopy base. 10. Place the canopy base and hatch on the fuselage and tape in place. Locate the mounting holes (no. 6 bolt) 3/8 down from the top of the fuselage side and on the center of C6. Drill a #28 (9/64) hole through all locations. Remove the canopy base and hatch. Drill out the holes in them with a 11/64 drill. Install All-Threads or a blind nut in each hole and CA. 12. Get ready for a cosmic experience! You are about to fit the canopy on the base. No matter how hard you try, it s almost impossible to get it perfect the first time unless you spend hours on it. I hope that you will have a good experience. Locate the canopy and cut the ends out of it trimming it close to each end. Place the base on the fuselage and bolt in place. Place the forward hatch on the fuselage and bolt in place. 13. Install the canopy over the base and align and tape in place. Put a mark on the front edge of the canopy and the forward hatch. Do the same on the back edge at the turtle deck. This is so each time you remove it to trim; you can place it back in the same place. You may choose to use blind nuts. The All- Threads do a better job of holding the bolts in. Tap them half way through to help get the bolt started. What is left will lock the bolt against vibration. A good product sold by Ohio Super Star. 11. Now is the time to consider finishing the interior of the canopy. We leave this up to you on how complete you want to make it. If you are interested in keeping the airplane light you may decide to leave the canopy plain, with no pilots. We have shown ours detailed with pilots and instrument panels. 14. Instead of marking the parting line to trim, use masking tape as a guide. Lay the tape edge right on the line. Now remove the canopy and trim to the tape edge. 15. Remove the tape and trial fit it again. So it still doesn t fit. Go through the same procedure again. This time it will almost fit. 25

27 Make sure the ends fit first and then do the sides. Some slight trimming here and then you are ready to glue it on the base. 16. Line the canopy area with wax paper and bolt on the canopy base. Glue the canopy on with Pacer Formula 560 Canopy glue and tape until cured. 2. Locate the front edge of the landing gear 7/8 back from F1 centering it between both side. Clamp it in place at both ends and match drill the holes in the landing gear to the fuselage. MOUNTING THE LANDING GEAR 1. Note the landing gear mounting hole layout on the plan. (sheet 1 of 3). Layout and drill the holes using a drill press. Also drill a #28 hole ¾ on center with the wheel axle hole on each strut 3. Fasten the gear to the mount with x 1 soc. hd. cap screws, flat washers and lock nuts. Install the wheel axles on the landing gear. 4. Locate the wheel pants and clean off the flashing. Find the WP1 s and round off the bottom edge of each to fit in the wheel pant. Check the wheel opening to see if wheel has clearance. If not, enlarge it. 26

28 5. Roughen the inside surface of the pant and, using thick CA/epoxy, glue in WP1, centering it in the wheel opening. Make sure you have a LH and a RH pant. Remove the material in the ½ hole keeping the hole ½. 6. Clamp the pant to the gear strut and match drill the #28 drill hole through the pant. Make sure the pant is pointing to the front of the gear. 7. When assembling the pant to the strut, first slip a wheel collar on the axle. Place the wheel in the pant opening. Slide the pant/wheel over the axle and place another wheel collar on the end of the axle. Evenly space the wheel in the pant opening and tighten the wheel collars. 8. Fill and prime the pants and give them 2 coats of color. Lay them aside for final assembly. You made decide to paint or polish the metal landing gear. We leave this up to you. INSTALLING CONTROL HORN HARD POINTS 1. Temporarily install a servo in a servo well with the control surface in place. Using the specified servo arm, mark the position of the control horn on the control surface. 7. Drill out the hole in the pant as necessary to accommodate a plastic All- Thread or blind nut. The plastic All-Thread does not require a lock washer under the retaining bolt head Mount the control surface on its foam packing, to keep it level, and drill a ½ hole through. Use a drill press and a Forstner bit to accomplish it. 3. Locate the ½ dowel and cut off the length required. Drill a #48 size hole down through the center of the dowel. How? Using a piece of ¾ ply, clamp it to the drill press bed. Chuck up a ½ Forstner bit and drill a hole thru the ply. With out moving

29 the ply, place he short length of dowel in the hole. Now drill the #48 hole thru the center. FINISHING THE WINGS 1. The wings need some additional work to complete them. Tape root rib (W1) to the end of the wing. Trim off the phenolic tube flush with the surface of W1. 2. Install the aluminum wing spar in the fuselage. Slide the wing panel on the spar, against the fuselage with W1 in place. Pin or tape W1 against the fuselage and fill in the gaps, if any, between W1 and the end of the wing. Be sure the wing is completely against the fuselage. 4. Epoxy the dowel in the hole leaving as little as possible to sand off. When cured fill the splinted area with Model Magic, where and if necessary. 5. There are 3 hard points on each aileron, 2 on each elevator, and 2 on the rudder. All of them should be accomplished as stated above. The servo installation shown is typical for all control surface servos. 3. When cured, remove the wing and fill in the gaps, where necessary, with epoxy and micro-balloons. Finish sand the surface. These procedures will ensure a good fit between the wing and fuselage. 4. Locate the four 3/8 x 6 dowel. Round off one end and sharpen the other end. These dowels must go in parallel to the wing spar not the end rib surface. To ensure they go in at the right angle, drill a 3/8 hole in a 2 long piece of 2 x 4 near one end. Cut 28

30 a 5-degree angle on the opposite surface. This will be your drill guide. model if both wings are not in the same plane or, have too much positive or negative incidence MOUNTING THE ENGINE Because of the different engine configurations we have left the engine mounts (EB1) a little long. They must be cut off to suit your engine requirements 5. Now drill the holes in the foam, located from the dowel hole location in W1, holding the guide flat against W1. Make sure you have it orientated properly. Apply epoxy to the dowel, insert it in the hole leaving ¾ extended out. Carefully slip the gauge over the dowel to ensure the angle is correct before the epoxy cures. Wipe off excess epoxy. SETTING THE WING INCIDENCE 1. With the aluminum wing spar mounted in the fuselage carefully slide the wing on the spar and against the fuselage. Block up the tail so the stab is level (in flying position). Tape the elevator in neutral position. Using a Robart Wing Incidence Indicator again, level the wing with the stab, (0 incidence) and pin or tape it in place. Now locate a W7, and epoxy it in place over the 3/8 dowel, against the fuselage, taking care not to move the wing. When cured glue the other W7 in place over the forward wing dowel. This is important and will adversely affect the flying of your 1. Measure the length of the cowl. Measure the distance from the engine mount to the back of the spinner. Allow some for clearance between spinner and cowl. Subtract this distance from the overall. Cut off the left EB1 to this dimension, this being the difference. Now cut off the right EB1 ¼ less than the left one. This will provide 2 degrees right thrust when the firewall is mounted. 2. Prepare the firewall by laying out the engine mounting holes. We have shown the Dessert Aircraft 150 mounting holes. The centerline for these mounting holes must be offset.260 from the actual firewall centerline because of the 2 degrees offset for the engine. Drill and install ¼ - 20 blind nuts. 29

31 3. Epoxy the firewall in between the EB1 s and clamp it in place until cured. 4. Cut pieces of ½ tri-stock and reinforce the firewall on the inside of each side. Also epoxy on ½ tri-stock, both sides, where EB1 meets F1. This is very important so don t leave it out. 5. Pin the sides of the engine mount to the Firewall using 3/16 dowel on both sides. Use epoxy. 6. Locate EB1 and epoxy it on the bottom of the mount. Using ½ tri-stock, reinforce the interior of the mount as shown in the photo. Use epoxy here as well. Sand off the edges flush 30

32 MOUNTING THE COWL 1. Locate the cowl ring, CW2 and CW3. Lay the cowl ring on a flat surface with wax paper, weighting it down. Epoxy the two CW3 retainers in the cowl ring using a square to check for perpendicularity. 7. Epoxy a ½ tri-stock piece on the bottom against F1. 8. Locate the other EB1 to make it a hatch cover. Cut off 1-1/2 from the front edge and epoxy it flush with the fire wall. Use the rest as a cover. Mount hardwood rails inside to anchor the screws. Six #2 servo mounting screws do a good job of retaining it. 2. Epoxy the two CW2 retainers in the slots in F1. The back edge should be flush with the inside surface. Again use the square to ensure perpendicularity. Note the small notches on the cowl ring key it in place against F1. 3. With the cowl ring in place, match drill 31

33 the small hole at the bottom through F1. Use a 5/64 drill bit. 4. Remove the cowl ring and install a # 6 blind nut or All Threads insert in the hole. 5. Locate the fiberglass cowl and trim off the back edges to 15-1/4 measuring down the center of the cowl. 6. Lay the cowl, on end, on a flat surface. Elevate a pen to the height of the mark on a block of wood. Scribe a line all around the base of the cowl. Trim off the excess material to the line with a Dremel drum sander. 7. While you have the Dremel Motor out, trim out the air vent holes and crankcase holes in the front of the cowl. 8. Locate the cowl ring and tack glue it using thick CA, flush with the back edge of the cowl. Make sure it is flat. Reinforce the ring all the way around on the inside with 2 oz glass cloth and epoxy. 9. Locate the cowl mounting holes on CW2 and extend the centers out to the fuselage side. Do both sides. 10. Mount the cowl on the fuselage and tape in place. Extend the mounting hole centerlines out on the cowl. Put a mark ¾ from the back edge of the cowl to locate the hole center. 11. With the cowl still in place, drill a #28 (5/64 ) hole completely through cowl and retainer mounts, CW2 and CW3, four places. Remove the cowl and drill out the hole, in the cowl only, with a ¼ bit. Now drill out the holes in CW2 to accept a #6 blind nut or an All Threads insert. The cowl is mounted with five #6-32 x 5/8 soc hd cap screws. 32

34 13. Additional holes will have to be cut to accommodate the mufflers and outlet air for proper cooling. THROTTLE SERVO 1. The throttle servo can be mounted in the motor box just aft of the engine. Locate the laser cut parts SV1 and SV2 from sheet 1A and make up the servo mount. Use epoxy for all the joints. 2. Mount the servo in place using #2 servo mounting screws. These screws are the best thing that ever happened when mounting servos. 3. Mount the servo where shown on the plans using the hardware specified. Drill a hole in the firewall to allow for clearance of the pushrod. A very simple installation. FINAL COMMENTS Give all the final parts a good sanding. We covered the prototype with UltraCote in order to keep it light as possible. The fiberglass cowl and wheel pants were painted with base coat clear coat automotive paint. The trim scheme is up to you. Go through the model magazines and find one that suits you as a good starting place. Then modify it to your taste if necessary. Our radio installation included two receivers and two battery packs. It will require several Y connectors and many extensions for the servos. You may decide to use one receiver in which case a redundant battery pack is highly recommended. The batteries can be moved around to help balance the model. Make sure all the long extensions in the fuselage are captured. A small, light wing tube is ideal to capture them. Some of the maneuvers during aerobatics do promote high G forces on wires and components. 33

35 PRE-FLIGHT NOTES Before the first flight, and to ensure some longevity in your Edge 540, you will do well to check out a few things before heading to the flying field. 1. Balance the Edge 540 at the indicated CG point shown on the plans with the fuel tank empty. Depending on your type of flying you may want to adjust it aft some more. 2. Check the control surface travels. Is everything moving in the right direction? We have given you a starting point however; they need to be fine tuned to meet your flying needs, especially if you intend to do 3D maneuvers 3. Run the engine and check the idle. Have it ready so you don't encounter any problems at the field. These big engines are expensive and to loose one is a major lose. 4. Turn on the radio with the engine running to make sure there are no intermittent glitches. Give it a good range check and make sure. 5. Check all hardware to make sure it is secure. There is nothing worse than losing an airplane on the first flight because of a lose nut or clevis. By now you are ready to fly. The thrill of flying a new airplane! We know you will be pleased with your Edge 540 and that it will give you many hours of pleasure. 34

36 MATERIAL LIST GENERAL PARTS LC=laser cut, CNC= router cut 1. Cowl (fiberglass) 2. Wheel Pants (2) (fiberglass) 3. Aluminum wing spar with spar sleeving 4. Foam wing cores (2) 5. Foam horizontal stab cores (2) 6. Foam vertical stab core 7. Aluminum formed landing gear 8. Clear plastic canopy FUSELAGE 1. FS1 (2) CNC 2. FS2, (2) CNC 3. FS3, (2) LC 4. FS4, (2) LC 5. FS5, (2) LC 6. FS6, (4) LC 7. FT1, FT2, CNC 8. FT3, FT4, LC 9. F1, F2, EM1, CNC 10. F3, F4, F5, F6, F7, F8, LC 11. F1A, F1B, F1C, LC 12. F4A F5A, F5B, F6A, F6B F7A, F7B, LC 13. DB1, (2), DB2, (2) 14. TW1, TW2, LC 15. MB1 (2), LC 15. SV1, LC 16. SV2 (2), LC 17. Fuel Tank Mount, LC 18. 1/2 x 6 x 7 plywood (firewall) 19. LG1, (Birch Ply) 20. (2) ¼ x ¼ x 48 Spruce (fuselage lower rail) 21. (3) ¼ x ¼ x 36 Spruce (fuse up & lo rail) 22. (3) ¼ X ¼ X 36 Balsa (bottom stringers) 23. (3) ¼ X ¼ X 48 Balsa (bottom stringers) 24. (2) ¼ X ¼ X 48 Spruce (bottom stringers) 25. (3) ¼ X ¼ X 36 Spruce (bottom Stringers) 26. (4) 3/32 x 4 x 30 Balsa sheet (Turtle deck) 27. (1) 3/32 x 4 x 36 Balsa sheet (Front Hatch) 28. (1) 3/32 x 4 x 24 Balsa sheet (Front Hatch) 29. (3) 1/8 x 1-1/2 x 3 Alum angle (Landing gear) 30. (1) 1 x 1 x 1-1/2 Hardwood block (tail wheel) 31. (1) ½ X 36 balsa tri-stock TAIL SURFACES 1. FIN1, LC (vertical fin) 2. RU1, RU2, RU3, LC (rudder) 3. ST1, (2) LC (horizontal stab tip) 4. EL!, EL2, (2) LC (elevators end cap) 5. 1/16 x 4 x 42 Balsa sheet (8) (stab, elev., skin) 6. 1/16 x 4 x 42 Balsa sheet (4) (Fin, Rud. Skin) 7. 1/16 x 4 x 30 Balsa sheet (2) (Fin, Rud. Skin) 8. ½ x 1-1/2 x 42 Balsa (elevator LE) 12. ½ x 1-1/2 x 42 Balsa (stab TE) 13. 3/8 x 7/8 x 42 Balsa (stab LE) 14. ¼ X ½ X 24 balsa (Fin LE) 15. ½ x ½ x 24 Balsa (fin TE) 13. ½ x ½ x 24 Balsa (Rudder LE) 14. 5/16 x 5/16 x 12 Spruce (servo mount) 15. 1/2 dia. x 12 Dowel (Elev. and Rud. Hard point) WING 1. W1, (2) LC, (wing root rib) 2. W2, (2) LC, (spar tube support) 3. W3, (2) LC, (wing inset cap) 4. W4, (2) LC, (wing tip cap) 5. W5, (2) LC (aileron inboard cap) 6. W6, (2) LC, (aileron tip cap) 7. 3/32 x 4 x 36 Balsa sheet (26) (wing skin) 8. 3/32 x 4 x 24 Balsa sheet (16) (wing skin) 9. 3/8 x ¾ x 48 Balsa (2) (wing leading edge) 10. 3/8 x ¾ x 24 Balsa (1) (wing leading edge) 11. ¼ x ¼ x 48 Spruce (9) (wing spar) 12. ½ x 1-3/4 x 48 Balsa (4) (wing TE, aileron LE) 13. 5/16 x 5/16 x 18 Spruce (servo mount) 14. 1/2 dia x 12 Dowel (aileron hard point) CANOPY 1. C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, C6, C7, LC(Canopy and Hatch) 2. ¼ x ¼ x 48 Hardwood, (2) (Canopy base) 3. ¼ x ¼ x 36 Hardwood, (1) (Canopy base) 4. 3/32 X 4 X 36 Balsa sheet (2) (Canopy base) COWL 1. CW1, CNC, (cowl ring) 2. CW2, LC, (2) (cowl retainer) 3. CW3, LC, (2) (cowl retainer) 4. CW3, LC LANDING GEAR 1. WP1, (2) (wheel pant reinforcement) 35

37 SUGGESTED HARDWARE LIST 1. 8 channel computer radio 2. engine cc 3. Fuel tank 50 oz Du-Bro 4. Propeller suitable size to fit engine 5. Fuel line 6. 6 spinner TruTurn 7. covering, paint and trim, your choice 8. 5 wheels Du-Bro or Sullivan 3. Rocket City Ball Link ¼ H.D. #87 (8) rudder, elevators x 3 threaded rod (4) Sullivan, elevators x 8 threaded rod at both ends (4) Sullivan 6.!-1/4 Super Strength Servo Arm (8) Du-Bro #670 rudder, elevator servos FUSELAGE 1. ¼ - 20 x 1-1/4 Soc Hd cap screw (4) Engine mounting. 2. ¼ - 20 blind nut (4) engine mounting 3. ¼ - 20 nylon lock nut (4) engine mounting 4. #10 32 x 1-1/4 soc hd cap screw (6) landing gear mount 5. #10 flat washer (6) landing gear mounting 6. #10 nylon lock nut (6) landing gear mounting 7. #6 32 x 5/8 soc hd cap screw (14) front hatch, canopy, wheel pant and cowl 8. #6 blind nut or #6 All Threads (Ohio Super Star) (14) front hatch, canopy, wheel pant, cowl 9. #6 flat washer (10) front hatch, canopy 10. 3/16 axle (2) Du-Bro #249 landing gear 11. 3/16 wheel collar (4) Du-Bro #141 landing gear 12. Ohio Super Star maxie Haig style tail wheel with mounting hardware 13. Aileron Connector, (1) Du-Bro # Solder Link, (1) Du-Bro # Threaded Rod, (1) Du-Bro # Hex nut (1) WING 1. Robart Super Hinge (16) ailerons 2. Rocket City Swivel Link Offset#69D (6) ailerons 3. Rocket City Ball link ¼ H.D. #87 (6) ailerons x 3 threaded rod (6) Sullivan, pushrod /4 Super Strength Servo Arm (6) Du-Bro #670, aileron servo TAIL 1. Robart Super Hinge (14) rudder, elevators 2. Rocket City Swivel Link Offset #69D (8) rudder, elevators 36