Fibertech N More cc 103 SUPER CHIPMUNK ASSEMBLY MANUAL. pg. 1

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Aubrey Lawrence
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1 Fibertech N More 50-60cc 103 SUPER CHIPMUNK ASSEMBLY MANUAL pg. 1

Introduction Thank you for choosing Fibertech N More 103 Super Chipmunk. We have taken great effort into making this kit a great plane to build and fly.

This also allows the 103 Super Chipmunk to be very light for its size. The design structure also provides the greatest strength possible.

2 Introduction Thank you for choosing Fibertech N More 103 Super Chipmunk. We have taken great effort into making this kit a great plane to build and fly. The materials and techniques used in this manual have been flight tested. All parts have been hand selected to make sure each kit has the best of quality parts. This also allows the 103 Super Chipmunk to be very light for its size. The design structure also provides the greatest strength possible. The plans are CAD designs which aids in the best possible fit of Lazer cut technology parts. All the foam provided for this kit is also cut on a CNC hot wire machine. The builder must be experienced in Giant Scale Model Builder. The 103 Super Chipmunk is not for the beginner. If you are not experienced in Giant Scale building we highly recommend that you seek advice from a qualified builder. The 103 Super Chipmunk is also not for a beginner fly. Although it is a very stable aircraft we recommend that you don t start off with this plane as your first to fly. The Pilot of this plane should be a member of the Academy of Model Aeronautics (AMA). Please read this instruction manual before beginning the build process. This will help you have a better understanding of the build process. This instruction manual does not have every detail spelled out. We assume you are an experience builder and will have some understanding of Model Airplane build techniques. Take your time. pg. 2

3 Glues Used For gluing the Leading Edges and Trailing Edges and all Sheeting Edges we use Titebond white Glue. Dries clear and easy to sand. For gluing sheeting to balsa we recommend Elmer s Ultimate Glue. This is polyurethane glue and will expand as it dries. Read the label for instructions before using. DON T use for sheeting edges to foam. TiteBond Original wood glue can be used for all glued joints and joining flat surfaces together. Only use enough glue to make a good joint. Extra glue only adds unneeded weight to your plane. This kit was designed to be of light weight. Motor Box (Dry fit all the motor box Lazar parts together first before gluing together.) Start with the MB-LH side and fit the firewall F1 to proper tabs. Fit the Fuel Tank MNT (the one in picture is different as we changed the Fuel Tank MNT for Gen 3) between both RH & LH sides into proper tabs. Glue the two motor mount plates together (make sure that the TOP FRONT lettering is lined up). The plate with crosses for the DA-60 motor mount spacing is the one that should be facing to the front. Then fit this assembly to the proper tabs on RH & LH sides. You can now finish installing the MB-TOP and MB-Bottom. Glue in F2 & F3 pr/plan. (MOTOR BOX HAS BUILT-IN RIGHT THRUST. MB-LH AND MB-RH ARE DIFFERENT) pg. 3

4 Fuse Construction Make sure the surface you are using for this process is flat. Find the Plans that show the fuse side and bottom view. We use 1 aluminum angle with a length that is slightly longer than the fuse. This is screwed down over the plans to aid in the proper alignment when building the fuse sides. Build both sides of fuse first. Pay close attention to plans as there are a couple of 3/8 vertical stringers and balsa spacers that get glued in place after the motor box and fuse sides are fastened together. Pay attention to plan detail special NOTES A. Don t forget to glue on the 1/64 Bridge bracing as shown on plans. They have the lettering T-2 ext. Reposition the 1 aluminum angle over the view of bottom plan. Start the build as you did with sides. Make sure sides and top or bottom are square as you go. pg. 4

Once the main part of fuse is glued together you can then place the Pre-built motor

If you set the plans over your build table and square up to edge of table it will

Finish gluing on the Bridge bracing and the WR-4 s pr/plans.

Slip the phenolic socket through pre glued WRF-2 then through Not glued yet WR-2

Now is the time to make adjustments if needed to get wing tube and fuse squared up

5 Once the main part of fuse is glued together you can then place the Pre-built motor box in place. Preposition the 1 angle over plans. Position the motor box in place. If you set the plans over your build table and square up to edge of table it will aid in positioning motor box to fuse. Finish gluing on the Bridge bracing and the WR-4 s pr/plans. Fit the WR-2 s Wing Tube supports to fuse sides. Slip the phenolic socket through pre glued WRF-2 then through Not glued yet WR-2 then through motor box and same for other side. Now is the time to make adjustments if needed to get wing tube and fuse squared up vertical and horizontal to fuse. Once this is done proceed to the above process and also add the WBP s as you slide in the phenolic tube for gluing. Glue in the WRF-1 s and re-drill hole if needed. These are wing bolt holes. pg. 5

True the sheeting edges so the edge of each sheeting has no spacing between them when glued together.

6 Depending on your preference for servo wire tubing. We make a simple paper tube and glue under top fuse frame work. Fuse Construction-Prep work for sheeting Foam Start with the Front top Canopy Hatch Hatch. Cut 3pc of 1/16 x4 Balsa sheet to 13 Long. True the sheeting edges so the edge of each sheeting has no spacing between them when glued together. Use masking tape and tape the full length of each seem just on one side. Then fold back each seam one at a time and apply glue down the edge. Make sure you lay the sheeting on flat surface to let dry. Wipe off excess glue with damp paper towel before glue sets up. pg. 6

Picture of Vertical stab sheeting The next step is to glue the sheeting to Foam.

NOTE: you do not need a large amount of this type of glue as it expands when drying. Read the directions on the glue you are using.

Same procedure will be used for rest of foam including wing & stabs for gluing sheeting on.

After the foam parts have been sheeted I would recommend leaving them in the chucks until you are ready to glue in place.

7 Picture of Vertical stab sheeting The next step is to glue the sheeting to Foam. When using the Elmer s Ultimate Glue spray a light mist of water over the foam part then brush on a light layer of the Elmer s Ultimate Glue or similar glue onto the foam part. NOTE: you do not need a large amount of this type of glue as it expands when drying. Read the directions on the glue you are using. Lay the foam part back down onto the mating foam block. Make sure front, back and sides are in line with each other. Use lots of weight and clamp the sides and let dry. Same procedure will be used for rest of foam including wing & stabs for gluing sheeting on. There are other techniques for doing this such as vacuum bagging if you have the equipment. After drying time you will need to cut off the excess balsa and sand to fit. After the foam parts have been sheeted I would recommend leaving them in the chucks until you are ready to glue in place. Depending on the time of year and your climate zone and glue used the sheeted parts can bow or the sides can pull in or push out. Once you have the parts trimmed you can move onto gluing down the parts to the fuse built up structure. Use the plans for referencing positions of the top rear deck. Glue on the H5 plywood plate to front of foam of the rear T/D. Use masking tape to hold in position. Lay the rear foam T/D over fuse and check for fit before gluing. You may need to push the foam sides in or pull pg. 7

them out depending on the climate and how long they have been out of the

You can use 2pc 1 Aluminum Angle and clamp to side of fuse for guide.

The same process is used for gluing the sheeted bottom foam to fuse.

Before finishing the rear of the top fuse you will need to move on to

8 them out depending on the climate and how long they have been out of the mating chucks. You can use 2pc 1 Aluminum Angle and clamp to side of fuse for guide. Use masking tape to help hold in place. The same process is used for gluing the sheeted bottom foam to fuse. When doing the bottom of fuse start from the front and work your way back. Before finishing the rear of the top fuse you will need to move on to building the Vertical fin and then come back to this part of manual. Use the plans for details on closing in around the Vertical stab. The Stab will need to be glued in place at this point. pg. 8

Tail wheel Hatch Move on to building the

9 Tail wheel Hatch Move on to building the Tail wheel access hatch using the plans for details. Shape the rear of the fuse and glue in the Hatch bolt plywood discs TH1. Use the plans for details for Tail wheel mounting plate. After you have mounted the Tail wheel mark and cut out opening through bottom of hatch. Take your time and remove a little material at a time. Canopy Hatch Build the Canopy Hatch using the plans for details. Make sure to build frame over the fuse structure and not the plans. This will allow the Hatch to have a true fit to fuse sides. pg. 9

Cut the canopy and trial fit. Leave the thin plastic protective cover on when cutting canopy. This helps keep it from getting scratched. Sharp sewing scissors seem to work the best.

10 Cut the canopy and trial fit. Leave the thin plastic protective cover on when cutting canopy. This helps keep it from getting scratched. Sharp sewing scissors seem to work the best. Scissors that have the bottom blade rounded are great. Horizontal Stab You will want to start by truing up the 1/16 Sheeting edges as you did for doing the Canopy Hatch process. Use the CNC cut Stab for sheeting lengths. Start from the trailing edge of Horizontal for first sheet. Measure twice and cut once. Number of sheets does not allow for incorrectly measured cuts. Each sheet should be slightly different in length allowing a ¼ max pr/end than what s needed. Glue the edges as before and set aside to dry. When cutting the phenolic tube make sure to leave it 1/8 longer for the ply wood root cap. NOTE: The phenolic must be long enough to go through the plywood root plate for strength. Use Polyurethane glue for installing the Stab tube (don t get carried away with this glue as a little goes a long way). Glue the STS-1 to the inside of cut out (refer to plans and picture). Trim and glue the small foam block into the rectangle hole. Use a scrap piece of 1/16 balsa to fill in the wire cut slot and sand flush. This slot is the access path to cutting the stab tube hole. Do not glue the Root cap on until all the Stab cuts have been made. Locate the anti-rotational TW-Disks. Use the print for reference mark and cut the foam for the disks. Glue the plates in place before sheeting. Use polyurethane glue but don t get carried away again. Make sure to tape the cap in place. Remember the glue expands as it dries. pg. 10

Sheeting the Horizontal stab is same process as the Canopy hatch.

Let this step dry. Once the glue has had time to dry sand the root and tip ends flush. Trim the ends by referring to print details.

For marking the correct edge shape and marking the Hinge line cut out use a piece of lightweight paper and trace over the plans.

Keep the plans in good shape in case you need to rebuild all though we would be happy to sell you another set.

11 Sheeting the Horizontal stab is same process as the Canopy hatch. After the glue has dried trim off sheeting and glue on the ½ x3/4 balsa to leading edge. Glue on the 1/8 x1/4 balsa to trailing edge. Let this step dry. Once the glue has had time to dry sand the root and tip ends flush. Trim the ends by referring to print details. Glue on the ½ x1 balsa. After glue has dried shape plane and sand top edges flush to sheeting. Don t shape the Edges yet. For marking the correct edge shape and marking the Hinge line cut out use a piece of lightweight paper and trace over the plans. Please don t cut your plans up. There is never a need for cutting up the plans. Keep the plans in good shape in case you need to rebuild all though we would be happy to sell you another set. Use one half of the foam chuck and lay it and the sheeted Stab over the plans. Using the plans mark the root end and the leading edge where the hinge line material will be cut out. Use a pin to poke a dot through the paper and into the sheeting at corners. Use a piece of paper and line up the marked points to draw the leading edge lines back to hinge lines. pg. 11

12 Mark for hinge line using plan for reference Measure and mark the half line all the way around. This will be your guide line when planing and sanding the edges. Using a couple pins and a straight edge will help in this process. pg. 12

Build the Laser cut servo trays. Mark the location referring to print for servo tray locations.

(Make sure you set the depth of cut to not go through the sheeting on top side of surface.) Most of the foam will be cut out of opening.

Before gluing in the trays mark and cut the needed servo wire slot into the foam. Use the print and the ½ hole cut out on plywood end cap for location.

13 Build the Laser cut servo trays. Mark the location referring to print for servo tray locations. When cutting the tray opening make your cuts smaller and sand opening for a very snug fit. Use a dremel tool with a router attachment to cut out for servo box. (Make sure you set the depth of cut to not go through the sheeting on top side of surface.) Most of the foam will be cut out of opening. It is best to scrape the last bit of foam out of bottom and not try to do all of it with the dremel tool. Before gluing in the trays mark and cut the needed servo wire slot into the foam. Use the print and the ½ hole cut out on plywood end cap for location. A small ½ copper pipe heated up on the one end makes for an easy process of getting the servo wire slot cut into the foam. Remember foam melts away quickly so be careful heating the copper tube up. You can also use a small round tip soldering iron for this because you don t have to go far. Glue in the boxes and after glue has dried sand flush to surface. Lay the built box over the paper and plans for location. Trace around the outside. pg. 13

Cutting Horizontal control surface Use the mating part of the CNC foam as a shuck for the Horizontal stab as a flat surface.

True up the edges by sanding. Cut the control surface inner and outer 1/8 balsa plates then the hinge surfaces.

Mark the center hinge line and mark 1/8 in for side line and plane off the angle as the print shows.

After glue has dried do some surface planing and sanding to get the hinge line stock flush.

14 Cutting Horizontal control surface Use the mating part of the CNC foam as a shuck for the Horizontal stab as a flat surface. Making the cuts on a band saw is the best process. You will be removing the center section from each core for the leading and trailing hinge lines. True up the edges by sanding. Cut the control surface inner and outer 1/8 balsa plates then the hinge surfaces. Cut from a ½ x3 balsa sheet the needed 1-1/4 balsa for the leading and trailing hinge surfaces. Measure the length needed and then cut the 3 balsa down to 1-1/2. Mark the center hinge line and mark 1/8 in for side line and plane off the angle as the print shows. Do a test fit and then glue on surfaces keeping the hinge line center. DON T use polyurethane for this. After glue has dried do some surface planing and sanding to get the hinge line stock flush. Refer to the print for hinge locations and mark and drill for the Robart hinges 310. Use the special Robart super hinge point tool to make this an easy process. Refer to the plans and drill in the ½ hard dowel for control arm linkage. Final step is to glue on the plywood root plate. Vertical Stab Construction Building the Vertical stab is basically the same process as building the Horizontal stab. So we won t go into great detail. Refer to the plans for detail assembly. pg. 14

Make sure the assembled rudder linkage is in the center of cut out on S2 Ply plates. Once satisfied, mark where the bent 1/8 wire rests next to vertical stab.

15 Rudder Control Assembly You should refer to the plans for most of the Vertical Stab details for control linkage. Make sure and leave the 1/8 wire longer in vertical length than plan shows. Sit the assembled Stab (hinges not glued yet) on to the Rudder MNT Plate. Make sure the assembled rudder linkage is in the center of cut out on S2 Ply plates. Once satisfied, mark where the bent 1/8 wire rests next to vertical stab. Then remove rudder control surface from Stab and glue the fiberglass cloth using slow set epoxy. Gluing down the assembled Vertical stab should be last after the Wing and Horizontal Stab are fitted to fuse. This way you can have a true 90deg on Vertical stab position. pg. 15

Landing Gear Assembly You should start by preparing the sheeting for the wings just as you did for the other foam

Put the wing in its proper chuck top down for the complete landing gear assembly.

Push them down into the slot far enough to mark out the plywood cut out. Use a dremel tool for cutting out the foam.

Mark the landing gear bolt holes in the plywood plate WLG1 and drill for the 8-32 blind nuts.

Then push the landing gear ribs down into foam for trial fit before gluing into place.

16 Landing Gear Assembly You should start by preparing the sheeting for the wings just as you did for the other foam surfaces. This way the glue has had time to dry and ready. Put the wing in its proper chuck top down for the complete landing gear assembly. Start by fitting the landing gear rib brackets WLG1 and WLG2 into the foam slots. Push them down into the slot far enough to mark out the plywood cut out. Use a dremel tool for cutting out the foam. Glue together the plywood landing gear plates WLG3 and 2pc of WLG4. Mark the landing gear bolt holes in the plywood plate WLG1 and drill for the 8-32 blind nuts. Slide the assemble structure into the WLG1 and WLG2 slots. Then push the landing gear ribs down into foam for trial fit before gluing into place. You re going to glue the assemble plate, ribs and phenolic tube in all at the same time. Use polyurethane glue for this. Make sure everything fits beforehand. Make sure and add a weight on top of the ribs so nothing moves. After glue has dried cut and glue in the 3/8 balsa blocks. After glue has dried sand flush to wing surface. Cut in the front shear plate using some scrap plywood for the shear plate and glue in place. pg. 16

f Sheeting the Wings Sheeting the wings is done in same fashion as all the

After applying glue smear it all around the surface with a flat putty knife.

DON T get too crazy with adding to much glue. Just a thin layer will do.

Need a lot of weight to do the job. Close to 300lbs should do.

17 f Sheeting the Wings Sheeting the wings is done in same fashion as all the above foam parts. Make sure to use a flat surface. After applying glue smear it all around the surface with a flat putty knife. Don t leave any part of surface without glue. DON T get too crazy with adding to much glue. Just a thin layer will do. Best to spread it out with your wife s credit card. Unneeded glue means unneeded weight. Lay a flat ¾ wood plate over wing chucks and throw weight on top. Need a lot of weight to do the job. Close to 300lbs should do. After glue has had enough time to dry do the same process as you did for Vertical and Horizontal Stabs for finishing. Use the plans for reference. Find the area for Landing gear opening and cut out the 1/16 Sheeting pg. 17

Use the plans for control surface location and mark each wing as you done for Stabs. Use the chuck under the wing panel and cut the control surfaces on a band saw.

18 Use the plans for control surface location and mark each wing as you done for Stabs. Use the chuck under the wing panel and cut the control surfaces on a band saw. Finish the control surface as you did for the vertical and horizontals. Setting Wing and Stab Incidence Level the top longeron with blocks under the tail area. Install one wing panel to side of fuse. Set wing to zero incidences using the meter. Use a long ¼ drill bit from opposite side of fuse antirotational holes and drill in about 2 into wing root. Do the same for other wing. Glue in the ¼ dowels. After glue for dowels have dried install each wing and check again for correct incidence. If correction is needed make the dowel hole larger and glue on another disk to inside of fuse over dowel. Use Vaseline on dowel so glue does stick. Mark the wing bolt hole with long ¼ bit but do NOT drill through the wing root ply and oak. Remove the wing and drill with #7 drill bit and tap with ¼ -20 tap. pg. 18

Cowl and Landing Gear and Wheel Pants No need for lot of detail as these steps are fairly straightforward.

19 G G For setting the Horizontal stab the process is basically the same. Set incidence to zero and drill for the ¼ dowel. After glued dowel has dried reposition stab and mark and drill for 8-32 bolts and blind nuts. Cowl and Landing Gear and Wheel Pants No need for lot of detail as these steps are fairly straightforward. Cut and glue in a scrap piece of ply to inside of one side of wheel pants. Use some fiberglass cloth and epoxy over ply. Mark and drill for axles and set for correct position. Then mark and drill for (2) 6-32 bolts and blind nuts for anti rotation. After motor is mounted mark and cut out openings in fiberglass and bolt into place. pg. 19

20 Balancing Use the plans for reference to balance point. This will get you a good starting point. Then after a few test flights balance to your style of flying. Materials List: Sticks (3pc) ¼ sq x 36 Balsa (12pc) 3/8 sq x 48 Balsa Use Mediam-Heavy oz. Density for Longerons and Diagonals on fuse Use Medium oz. for Verts & Lats on Fuse (1pc) 3/8 x36 Tri-Stock Balsa (2pc) 1/8 x1/4 x36 Balsa (1pc) ½ x3/4 x36 Balsa (4pc) 1/8 x3/8 x48 Balsa Sheeting (36pc) 1/16 x4 x48 Balsa (medium grade) 3-Sheets for Top Rear Deck and Bottom Front Belly 1-Sheet for Bottom Center Belly 2-Sheets for Bottom Back 1-Sheet for Top Front Deck (3pc) ½ x3 x48 Balsa 2-Sheets Cut in Half for LE and TE Wing Control Surface 1-Sheet Cut In Half for LE and TE Vertical and Horizontal Control Surface Lazar Parts (1pc) Sheet1: 1/8 x12 x12 Light Ply (1pc) Sheet2: 1/8 x12 x24 Light Ply (1pc) Sheet3: 3/32 x15-1/2 x24 B/Ply (1pc) Sheet4: 3/32 x15-1/2 x24 B/Ply (1pc) Sheet5: 3/32 x8-1/4 x24 B/Ply (1pc) Sheet6: 3/32 x4 x24 B/Ply (1pc) Sheet7: 3/8 x3 x24 Balsa (1pc) Sheet8: 3/8 x3 x24 balsa (1pc) Sheet9: 1/64 x6 x12 Birch (6pc) ¼ Light Ply Eng. Standoff pc pg. 20

21 Landing Gear (2pc) LH & RH Aluminum Gear (1pc) Tale Wheel Assembly Foam Parts (1pc) Top Front Deck (1pc) Top Rear Deck (1pc) Bottom Front Deck (1pc) Bottom Middle Belly (1pc) Bottom Back (2pc) Wing (2pc) Horizontal Stab (1pc) Vertical Stab Fiberglass Parts (1pc) Cowl (2pc) Wheel Pants Vacuum Form Canopy Carbon Tube Parts (1pc) 1.25 x 40 Wing Tube & Socket (1pc).5 x 20 Stab Tube & Socket Wheels (2pc) Diameter (1pc) 1.5 Diameter pg. 21

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION

FUSELAGE CONSTRUCTION Note: prior to building and gluing on the work surface use protective covering on your building surface. (wax paper or clear wrap) Fit the laser cut Fuselage Front and Fuselage Rear