CLUB STAR II Glider and Electric

Transcription

1 Order No INSTRUCTIONS CLUB STAR II Glider and Electric For electric power system and 2 or 3 LiPo cells This model requires a four-function radio control system 1

2 Specification Wingspan approx mm Fuselage length approx mm Wing area approx dm² Tailplane area approx dm² Total surface area approx dm² Min. all-up weight according to fittings approx g Longitudinal dihedral approx Centre of Gravity, measured approx mm from the root leading edge Foreword The GRAUPNER CLUB STAR II is an elegant, ultra-lightweight glider (electric glider). The design features particular emphasis on low all-up weight, which is reflected in the model s excellent performance and handling. The CLUB STAR II s flying characteristics make it the ideal model for the beginner: its generous wing area and carefully selected airfoil endow the glider with very docile and neutral handling qualities. The CLUB STAR II features a GRP fuselage, while the wing and tail panels are of balsa construction: ribs and spars for the wing, laser-cut strip tail construction. The aeroplane features a two-part wing for ease of transport - it can even be carried in a bag on a bicycle. A certain amount of real construction work is required to complete the model, which only requires a simple four-function radio control system. Please observe the safety notes at the end of the building instructions. During construction RC system components and the control surface linkages must be installed at the appropriate stage of construction, as it may be very difficult or even impossible to fit them later. The building instructions In general terms the instructions reflect the sequence of assembly. The following notes simply provide a fuller explanation where necessary. If you wish to deviate from the order of building described in the text, that is left to your own discretion. Please bear in mind that balsa knifes, modelling pins, the ends of thin wire parts etc. are pointed or sharp, and are easily capable of causing injury. Ensure that children do not have access to modelling tools, adhesives or paints. Always work in a well-ventilated room when using solvent-based adhesives. Take waste glue and paint to your local toxic waste collection centre for disposal. A large, unobstructed workbench is a great advantage for all modelling tasks. 2

3 If you lack experience in model building, and encounter a procedure which you find difficult or cannot understand, ask an experienced modeller to help you. Rules of behaviour Never operate your model over public roads, paths or squares, close to buildings or in the vicinity of high-tension overhead cables. Never fly your CLUB STAR II in a nature reserve or protected area, and take care not to harm animals and plants which live in the countryside. Remember that trees and bushes are home to many birds, where they live and raise their young. Never endanger animals, spectators or other pilots. Radio control equipment for the CLUB STAR. We recommend the following as the minimum for this model: 1 MX-12s 35 MHz computer system, e.g. Order No or mx-16 ifs Order No C 231 servos Order No lose 1 R 700 micro-receiver Order No Extension leads Order No Extension leads Order No Please refer to the main GRAUPNER FS catalogue for details for suitable chargers. Electric power system and accessories 1 COMPACT 345Z motor, 11.1 V Order No BRUSHLESS CONTROL 35 BEC G3.5 speed controller Order No G35 1 LiPo flight battery Order No or Order No or Order No CAM FOLDING PROP Order No Velcro (hook-and-loop) tape Order No Accessories for glider version 1 Receiver battery, IB 4N-1600 NiMH JR 2/3A Order No On / Off switch Order No Essential materials and tools Twist drill, 1.6 mm Ø Twist drill, 3.2 mm Ø Cross-point and slot-head screwdriver Adhesives White glue, e.g. UHU coll, Order No UHU hart, e.g. Order No Fast-setting epoxy, e.g. UHU plus schnellfest Order No. 962 Stabilit Express, e.g. Order No Cyano-acrylate ( cyano ), e.g. Order No

4 The wings... are built from parts (1-29), and are the most important components of our model. Each wing consists of a centre section and a tip panel. The parts are assembled and glued together over a flat building board. Start with the right-hand wing centre section: cut out that part of the drawing and tape it down on the building board. Lay clear greaseproof paper or plastic film over it to prevent parts sticking to the paper. Pin down the leading edge (1), the trailing edge (2) and the main spar (3) over the plan, checking that the distance between them matches the rib notches. Caution: the face which is at right-angles to the front edge is the underside. Tip: fit two or three ribs in the notches, position them carefully over the plan, then pin down the spar, leading edge and trailing edge. Trim the bottom sheeting (12 and 13) to fit between the leading edge, spar and trailing edge, and pin these parts to the building board flush with the outside of the second rib (5). The remaining wing ribs (4-11) can now be fitted and glued to the leading edge, spar, trailing edge and sheeting. Caution: the ribs, leading edge, trailing edge, spar and sheeting must lie absolutely flat on the building board. Take care to glue the first rib (4) in place exactly straight. 90 Glue the supplementary rib (5-z) in place, spaced 0.5 mm away from the rib (5) (tip: fit or glue scrap 0.5 mm sheet between the parts as a spacer). Glue the secondary rib (10-z) in place in the same way as the supplementary rib (5-z). Glue the top spar to the structure, ensuring that it reaches the bottom of the notches in the laser-cut ribs. Slide the joiner rube (15) into the appropriate hole; leave it projecting by about 5-6 mm. Cut the aluminium pivot tube (14) to length (approx. 400 mm) and slide it Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

5 through the holes in the ribs at the trailing edge; leave it projecting by about 10 mm, and glue it in place with cyano. Glue the gussets (23) to the rib (11) and the leading and trailing edges, the gussets (24) to the rib (10) and the pivot tube (14), and the gussets (25) to the ribs (5-z + 10-z) and the pivot tube (14) using cyano. Glue the spar webs ( ) to the spars on the side facing the leading edge. When the adhesive has set hard, glue the dowel support (18) to the sheeting (13) and the spar web (16), with the hole adjacent to the rib (4). Let the glue dry, then drill a 4.0 mm Ø hole in the leading edge to accommodate the locating dowel (note: the dowel must lie parallel with the rib (4)). Offer up the leading edge sheet panel (19), and check that its width is correct; trim if necessary. Apply glue to the contact surfaces of the wing structure. Fit the sheeting in the recess in the leading edge, and pin it in place using a spare strip of wood to spread the load, then roll the sheeting back over the ribs and onto the spar. Clamp the sheet panel to the spar using a packing strip to avoid damaging the surface. Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

6 Cut the in-fill piece (20) to length, trim it to fit between the wing joiner tube (15) and the spar (3), then glue it and the webbing (16 and 17) in place using plenty of UHU plus (epoxy). Clamp the webbing in place while the glue is hardening. Cut out the hole for the servo lead in the bottom wing sheeting as shown on the plan. Trim the upper root sheeting (21) to fit, and glue it in place flush with the outside of the rib (5). When the glue has set hard, sand back the excess leading and trailing edge strips and the sheeting until these parts are flush with the rib (4). Glue the root facing rib (4.1) to the bevelled face of the triangular strip (26). Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

7 When the glue has set hard, continue the holes in the facing rib (4.1) through the triangular strip (26), and glue this assembly to the rib (4). Allow the glued joints to set hard, then remove the excess triangular material using a sharp knife (or balsa plane or chisel) before sanding the edges back flush. The next step is to cut the recess for the trailing edge airbrake: cut through the trailing edge (2) between the ribs (5; 5-z and 10-z; 10) using a thin sawblade. The cutlines in the ribs are indicated by laser marks; cut along them using a balsa knife. Pin the wing down over the plan on the building board, cut the recess sealing strip (27) to length, and glue it to the ends of the ribs, taking care to keep the ribs aligned with the plan. Trim the sheeting (22) to fit between the ribs (8 and 9) and glue it in place, flush with the underside of the ribs. Allow the glue to set hard, then pin down the airbrake on the building board and glue the leading edge sealing strip (27) to it. Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

8 When all the glued joints are dry, place the airbrake in the recess and slip the steel pivot rod (28) through the aluminium tube (14). Sand back the sealing strips (27) to follow the contour of the ribs. Caution: take care not to sand into the ribs and change the airfoil section. The tip panels are assembled in the same way as the wing centre section: fit scrap wood under the trailing edge (3) at the tip rib (39) to pack it up by 5 mm, and pin it flat on the building board at the root rib position (29). Fit further packing, using a long ruler or straight edge to keep it straight. Pin down the spar (3) and leading edge (1), spaced to match the root rib (29) and the tip rib (39). Glue the ribs (29-39) to the leading edge (1), the spar (3) and the trailing edge (3), keeping them flush with the strip material. Allow the glue to dry, then lay the leading edge sheeting panel in place and trim it if necessary. Apply glue to all the contact surfaces, position the sheet panel (40) in the leading edge recess, and pin it in place using a scrap strip. Roll the panel back over the ribs, and clamp it to the spar using a spare strip as a spreader. Saw off the excess leading edge (1), spar (3) and sheeting (40), and sand them flush with the end ribs ( ). Cut the trailing edge (2) flush at the dihedral break rib (29). Glue the wingtip (41) to the rib (39) and the trailing edge (2), then sand the trailing edge flush with the wingtip when the glue has set hard. Glue the triangular strips (42) to the dihedral break ribs ( ) of the centre and tip panels, keeping them flush at the underside; note the correct angle. Let the glue dry, then cut or plane off excess material before sanding it back flush with the airfoil. Cut a slot in the triangular strip and the rib to clear the tip dihedral brace (43), and check that it is a snug fit. Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

9 Glue together the centre panel, the tip panel and the dihedral brace (43) using plenty of glue for a strong joint. Ensure that the panels line up correctly. Pack up the wingtip by the stated amount (see photo) while the glue is hardening. When the glue has set, sand the wing smooth overall, maintaining the airfoil section. Chamfer the wing root doubler (44) and glue it to the wing trailing edge at the retaining screw position. When sanding the wing please ensure that no ribs project above or below the leading or trailing edges. A final inspection completes this stage. Tailplane and fin Tape the drawing over the building board, and protect it with greaseproof paper or clear plastic film. Pin down parts (45-52) over the plan and glue them together. When the joints are hard, sand the tailplane to the shape shown on the plan. Cut the elevator (53) to length, trim it to fit and bevel it as shown in the drawing. Sand the tailplane mounting doubler (55) to the shape shown, and glue it to the top surface of the tailplane, as shown on the plan. Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

10 Use a sharp knife to cut slots in the tailplane and elevator for the patent hinges (54), in the positions marked on the plan. Cut each hinge in half as shown, push them halfway into the slots on each side, and attach the elevator to the tailplane. Check that the elevator deflects freely up and down. The fin and rudder are assembled in the same manner as the tailplane; the panels consist of the laser-cut balsa parts (56-70). When the glue has set hard, sand these parts to the shape and profile shown on the plan. Cut slots for the patent hinges as described for the elevator, push them half-way into each panel, and check that the rudder deflects freely to both sides of centre. Trial-fit the fin in the slot in the fuselage (71), and file out the slot if necessary. Drill 3.2 mm Ø holes in the tailplane for the retaining screws; see picture and plan. Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

11 Lay the tailplane on the fuselage at right-angles to the centreline, and drill the screwholes using a 3.2 mm Ø bit. Drive the tapping screw (72) into the holes in the fuselage (71) to cut an M4 thread in them. Drill out the screw-holes in the tailplane to 4 mm Ø, and countersink them for the plastic M4 countersunk screws (73). Wing mounting Apply the foam tape (74) to both sides of the wing saddle on the fuselage (71). Join the wing panels using the flat steel joiner (76), and mark the position of the wing locating dowels (73) on the fuselage. Drill holes for the dowels, and adjust them if necessary using a needle file until the wing rests flat on the wing saddle (check also that the wing is exactly central). Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

12 Drill a 3.2 mm Ø hole through each wing root doubler and the wing, positioned as shown in the photo, drilling at right-angles to the top of the wing airfoil (see side view in the construction plan).fit the wing dowels into the holes in the fuselage, align the wing at right-angles to the fuselage centreline, and drill 3.2 mm Ø holes through the fuselage and into the spreader plate. Cut an M4 thread in the spreader plate using the tapping screw (72). Open up the holes in the wing to 4 mm Ø, and countersink them for the M4 countersunk screws (73). Fix the wing to the fuselage with the retaining screws (73) to check alignment. Covering All the flying surfaces have to be covered; we recommend using iron-on film in your choice of colour scheme. When applying the material to the airframe please observe the instructions supplied with the film. It is a good idea to lay a length of thread through each wing panel before applying the covering film, so that the servo leads can be drawn through the covered structure. Fitting the tailplane and fin Glue the patent hinges (54) half-way into the film-covered control surfaces using cyano. Leave the adhesive to cure, then glue the projecting hinge ends into the fixed panels, leaving a gap about 0.5 mm wide, again using cyano. Fix the tailplane to the fuselage using the plastic M4 x 20 retaining screws (73). Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

13 Insert the fin in the slot in the top of the fuselage, align it carefully, and mark the outline of the fuselage on the bottom of the fin. Remove the fin and melt the film by running a hot soldering iron just inside the marked lines. Peel off the unwanted film, then glue the fin in the slot, taking care to keep it exactly vertical relative to the wing. Installing the servos in the fuselage Remove the peel ply (tear-off fabric) from the fuselage to leave a rough surface before gluing the servo plate (89) in the fuselage (trim to length and width if necessary). Cut the snake outer sleeves to the lengths shown in the picture. Fit the servos in the openings, drill the pilot-holes, and screw them in place. Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

14 Drill out the servo arms to 1.6 mm Ø, fit the pushrod connectors (77) in the holes, and secure them with the plastic nuts (78). They must rotate smoothly, but without slop. Rudder and elevator linkages Screw the ball-link (80) onto the steel pushrod (79), slip the snake inner into the snake outer sleeve (81) and fit this assembly into the guide sleeve in the fuselage from the tail end. Shorten the horn (82) as shown in the picture, and screw the ballend bolt (83) into the hole. Mark the point on the control surface where the horn (82) can be fitted without stress (see plan), and drill a 4 mm Ø hole in the panel at that point. Shorten the spigot of the spreader plate (84) as shown and fit the horn. Install the spreader, mark the outline of the base, and remove the covering film on the inside of the marked line. Glue the horn and the spreader plate to the control surface. Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

15 Set the servo output arm to centre by connecting the RC system and switching it on. Cut the inner snake sleeve (81) to length as shown in the photo. Slip the snake inner and the steel pushrod into the guide sleeve, threading the end of the steel rod through the barrel of the swivel pushrod connector (77). Snap the ball-link (80) onto the ball-end bolt (horn), set the control surface to centre (neutral), and tighten the grubscrew (85) in the swivel connector to clamp the steel pushrod (79). Snip off the excess pushrod length using a pair of side-cutters. It is essential to apply UHU thread-lock fluid to the grubscrews to prevent them working loose. Airbrake linkage Cut away the covering film at the appropriate points in the wings, and melt away the film over the pivot holes and openings. Slip 400 mm lengths of steel rod (28) through the aluminium tubes (14) in order to attach the airbrakes to the wings. Set the servos to neutral, fit the output arms at right-angles to the servo case, and insert the retaining screws. Connect the servo leads to the appropriate extension leads (Order No ), and secure each joint with a heat-shrink sleeve, adhesive tape or a drop of cyano. Open up the holes in the servo output arms to 1.6 mm Ø, insert the swivel pushrod connector barrels (77) and retain them with the plastic nuts (78); check that they rotate smoothly, but without lost motion. 15

16 Tie the extension lead to the thread inside the wing (which you fitted before covering the panel), and use it to pull the lead through to the wing root. Fit the servo in the wing rib and secure it with the retaining screws supplied in the servo accessory pack. Slip the pushrod (86) through the swivel pushrod connector (77), set it at right-angles to the wing trailing edge, and mark the point on the airbrake where the horn (87) is to be fitted. Drill a 3 mm Ø hole at the marked point, and push the horn spigot into the hole - note the orientation of the horn in the photo. Mark the outline of the horn base, remove the film just inside the outline, and glue the horn (87) in the hole. When the glue has set hard, connect the pushrod (86) to the airbrake horn (87), then slip the plain end through the hole in the pushrod connector barrel. Switch the RC system on, move the airbrake slider fully forward, and retract the airbrake. In this position tighten the grubscrew in the swivel pushrod connector. Move the slider fully back, and the airbrakes should extend fully. Snip off excess pushrod material, and apply a drop of UHU thread-lock fluid to the grubscrew to prevent it working loose. Cut the servo well cover (88) to size, and tape it to the wing; check that the pushrod does not foul the inside of the cover at any point in its travel. Canopy The canopy (90) is held in place by the steel wire spring (91), which should be bent to the shape shown in the drawing. Glue it to the canopy using Stabilit-Express; ensure that both ends of the wire can be sprung in order to fit the canopy. The wire latch should end flush with the canopy at the front end. 16

17 Installing the electric motor and receiving system Cut out the drawing from the plan or the instructions, and fix it to the front face of the fuselage using double-sided adhesive tape; ensure that the paper drawing is exactly central, then drill the 3.2 mm Ø screw-holes. Fix the motor in place in such a way that the three power wires run along the centreline at the bottom of the fuselage. Connect the speed controller to the motor (check the direction of rotation), fix the controller to the right-hand fuselage side using Velcro (hook-and-loop) tape, and route the control lead aft towards the receiver. Mount the receiver on the servo plate (89), again using Velcro, and connect the servos to it. The flight battery can be attached to the bottom of the fuselage using Velcro; the pack s position determines the model s Centre of Gravity. Assemble the folding propeller as described in the manufacturer s instructions, and fix it to the propeller shaft, leaving a gap 1 to 1.5 mm wide between the spinner backplate and the fuselage. Check that it is firmly secured. unten Glider version Mark and drill the holes for the towhook (93) on the underside of the fuselage, in the position shown on the plan, and screw it in place with the spreader plate (94). Push the receiver battery as far as possible into the fuselage nose, and secure it carefully to prevent it shifting in flight. The On / Off switch can be mounted on the inside of the fuselage side with Velcro tape. Route the receiver lead to the receiver, and connect the other lead to the battery. Modifications reserved. No liability for printing errors Id. No /2010

18 Assembling the CLUB STAR 2 Glue the locating dowels (75) in the wings, ensuring that the inside ends engage in the dowel supports (18). Fit the wings together using the flat steel joiner (76). Tip: it is a good idea to glue the flat steel joiner in one wing panel using UHU Alleskleber Kraft, taking care to set it at the right angle. For connecting the two airbrake servos to the receiver we recommend that you permanently connect a 100 mm extension lead (Order No ) to each of the corresponding receiver sockets (6 and 7). Plug in the servo leads, insert the locating dowels, and fix the wing to the fuselage using the M4 x 20 countersunk screws (73). Decals Cut out the self-adhesive decals and apply them to the appropriate surfaces of the model, taking care to avoid trapped air-bubbles and creases. You can emulate the arrangement shown in the kit box illustration if you wish. Balancing the CLUB STAR 2 Support the model at a point mm aft of the wing root leading edge on either side of the fuselage. When balanced correctly the aeroplane will hang level, with the nose inclined slightly down. If necessary, adjust the CG by re-positioning the flight battery or by gluing lead ballast in the nose or tail. Check that all the control surfaces are exactly at neutral (zero-point) when the transmitter trims are at centre. Control surface travels Airbrakes approx. 70 up / down Elevator 7 mm up and down Rudder 25 mm right and left We recommend that you set 50% exponential (Expo) at the transmitter. Important: When fitting and adjusting the various linkages you should ensure that they move freely, without binding, are able to move to their full extent - including trim travel - and are not obstructed mechanically at any point. When you move the rudder stick to the right, the rudder should also deflect to the right (left stick: left rudder). Pull the elevator stick back towards you, and the elevator must deflect up (stick forward: elevator down). When you move the airbrake slider back, both brakes should move almost to the vertical position. Move the throttle stick forward and the motor should run at full power. Now all that remains is for all of us to wish you many hours of pleasure flying your CLUB STAR 2. Yours - the team! 18

19 Parts List - CLUB STAR II Part Description No. off Material Dimensions in mm No. 1 Leading edge 4 Balsa 622 x 13 x 13, notched 2 Trailing edge 4 Balsa 640 x 5 x 25, notched 3 Spar 6 Spruce 1000x3x8, as plan 4 Rib 2 Birch ply 2, laser-cut 4.1 Rib 2 Birch ply 1.5, laser-cut 5 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 5-z Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 6 Rib 2 Birch ply 2, laser-cut 7 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 8 Rib 2 Birch ply 2, laser-cut 9 Rib 6 Balsa 2, laser-cut 10 Rib 4 Balsa 2, laser-cut 10-z Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 11 Rib 12 Balsa 2, laser-cut 12 Sheeting 2 Balsa 1.5, laser-cut 13 Sheeting 2 Balsa 1.5, laser-cut 14 Pivot tube 2 Aluminium tube 1000x2x1.6 as plan 15 Wing joiner tube 2 Brass 90 x 5.4 x Spar web 4 Birch ply 1.5, laser-cut 17 Spar web 4 Birch ply 1.5, laser-cut 18 Dowel support 2 Beech ply 6, laser-cut 19 L.E. sheeting 2 Balsa 620 x 58 x In-fill piece 8 Spruce 160x4.5x8, as plan 21 Root sheeting 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 22 Sheeting 2 Balsa 1.5, laser-cut 23 Gusset 8 Balsa 2, laser-cut 24 Gusset 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 25 Gusset 4 Balsa 2, laser-cut 26 Triangular strip 2 Balsa 210 x 21 x 3 / Sealing strip 4 Balsa 300 x 15.5 x 3 28 Airbrake pivot rod 1 Steel rod 1000 x 1.5, as plan 29 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 30 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 31 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 32 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 33 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 34 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 35 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 36 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 37 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 38 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 39 Rib 2 Balsa 2, laser-cut 19

20 40 L.E. sheeting 2 Balsa 420 x 58 x Wingtip 2 Balsa 4, laser-cut 42 Triangular strip 4 Balsa 210 x 21 x 5 / Dihedral brace 2 Beech ply 6, laser-cut 44 Wing root doubler 2 Birch ply 2, laser-cut 45 Tailplane L.E. 2 Balsa 5, laser-cut 46 Tailplane T.E. 2 Balsa 5, laser-cut 47 Tailplane centre 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 48 Tailplane tip 2 Balsa 5, laser-cut 49 Cross-brace 2 Balsa 5, laser-cut 50 Cross-brace 2 Balsa 5, laser-cut 51 Cross-brace 2 Balsa 5, laser-cut 52 Cross-brace 2 Balsa 5, laser-cut 53 Elevator 1 Balsa 550 x 5 x Patent hinge 3 Textured plastic 25 x 20 x Tailplane doubler 1 Birch ply 1.5, laser-cut 56 Fin leading edge 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 57 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 58 Fin centre 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 59 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 60 Fin centre 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 61 Leading edge 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 62 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 62.1 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 62.2 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 63 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 64 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 65 Trailing edge 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 66 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 67 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 68 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 69 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 70 Cross-brace 1 Balsa 5, laser-cut 71 Fuselage 1 GRP Ready made 72 Tapping screw 1 Metal M4 x???? 73 Screw 4 Plastic M4 x Foam tape 1 Plastic 400 x 9 x Locating dowel 2 Beech dowel 4 Ø x Flat steel joiner 1 Metal Ready made 77 Swivel pushrod 4 Metal Ready made connector 78 Nut 4 Plastic Ready made 79 Pushrod 2 Steel rod Ready made 80 Ball-link 2 Plastic Ready made 81 Snake sleeve 2 Plastic Ready made 82 Horn 2 Plastic Ready made 83 Ball-end bolt 2 Metal Ready made 84 Spreader plate 2 Plastic Metal 85 Grubscrew 2 Metal M2 x 3 86 Pushrod 2 Metal 0.8 Ø 20

21 87 Airbrake horn 2 Plastic Ready made 88 Servo well cover 1 pair Plastic Ready made 89 Servo plate 1 Birch ply 3, laser-cut 90 Canopy 1 Plastic Ready made 91 Steel rod 1 Metal 1000x1.2 Ø as plan 92 Self-tap screw 2 Metal 2.9 x Towhook 1 Plastic Ready made 94 Spreader plate 1 Plastic Ready made As plan: refer to the drawing for the actual measurements. Caution: If you are a beginner to this type of electric-powered model, please ask an experienced model flyer for help and support. If you attempt to operate the aeroplane without knowing what you are doing, you could easily injure yourself or somebody else. Please keep your safety and well-being in mind at all times. Important Safety Notes You have acquired a kit which can be assembled into a fully working RC model when fitted out with suitable accessories. However, we as manufacturers have no control over the way you build and operate your RC model aircraft, nor how you install, operate and maintain the associated components, and for this reason we are obliged to deny all liability for loss, damage or costs which are incurred due to the incorrect use of our products or due to incompetent behaviour on the part of the user, or which are connected with such operation in any way. Unless otherwise prescribed by binding law, the obligation of the GRAUPNER company to pay compensation, regardless of the legal argument employed, is excluded. This includes personal injury, death, damage to buildings, damages due to loss of business or turnover, interruption of business or other direct or indirect consequent damage whose root cause was the operation of the model. The total liability in all cases and under all circumstances is limited to the amount of money which you actually paid for the model. This model is built and flown at the sole and express responsibility of the operator. The only way to avoid injury to persons and damage to property is to handle the model with the greatest care and consideration at all times. According to the new regulation of 103 Paragraph 3 of the LuftVZO (German Aviation Approvals Office), all model aircraft - whether slow-flyer, park-flyer, glider, or model aircraft propelled by any form of power plant - must be insured before the model is operated. If you are not sure about this, please ask at your local model shop where the staff will be glad to advise you. These safety notes must be kept in a safe place. If you ever dispose of the model, be sure to pass them on to the new owner. Guarantee conditions The guarantee provides for the replacement of any parts which exhibit proven manufacturing errors or material defects during the guarantee period of 24 months from the 21

22 initial date of purchase. We will not consider any claims which do not fall within this description. Costs of transport, packaging, freight and journeys are payable by the purchaser. We accept no liability for transport damage. Please send the offending item to GRAUPNER or to the approved service centre for your country, and include a concise, accurate description of the fault together with the dated purchase invoice. The guarantee does not cover failure of any part of the model due to an accident, incompetent handling, or incorrect use. Important: before you start construction Even if you have already built a large number of RC models please read right through these instructions and check that all the kit components are actually present. We have taken great trouble to keep construction as simple as possible, without making any compromises in the area of safety. This model is highly pre-fabricated and can be built in a very short time. However, the work which you have to carry out is important and must be done carefully. The model will only be strong and fly well if you complete your tasks competently - so please work slowly and accurately. When self-tapping screws have to be screwed into wood, apply a little white glue to prevent them working loose: just squirt white glue into the hole and fit the screw. Operating the CLUB STAR II Be sure to read right through the operating and assembly instructions before you attempt to fly the model for the first time. You alone are responsible for the safe operation of your radio-controlled model. Young persons under fourteen years should only be permitted to operate this model under the instruction and supervision of an adult who is aware of the hazards involved in this activity. Please keep these operating instructions in a safe place. If you ever dispose of the model, be sure to pass them on to the new owner. If you have any questions regarding the safe operation of your RC model aeroplane, please turn to your local model shop in the first instance, as the staff will be pleased to help you. Powered model aircraft are very demanding and potentially dangerous machines, and call for a high level of technical knowledge and skill from the operator, together with a responsible attitude. In legal terms our models are classed as aircraft, and as such are subject to legal regulations and restrictions which must be observed. Our brochure Modellflugrecht, Paragrafen und mehr (Model Aviation Law, Legal Requirements and more) is available under Order No , and contains a summary of all these rules. Your local model shop should have a copy which you can read. Models fitted with glowplug engines may only be flown with the landowner s permission, and third party insurance is mandatory. There are also Post Office regulations concerning your radio control system, and these must be observed at all times. 22

23 Be sure to use only those parts included in the kit, together with other genuine Graupner accessories and replacement parts as recommended expressly by us. Even if you change a single component you can no longer be sure that the system will work reliably, and such changes also invalidate your guarantee. Use only matching polarised electrical connectors. The flight battery, all cables and connectors must be insulated carefully to prevent short-circuits, especially if you make them up yourself. Never combine connectors with contacts of different materials, e.g. tin-plated and gold-plated, as the connections will not be reliable in the long-term. If you are using a BEC motor switch or speed controller (i.e. with integral receiver power supply) use Graupner gold-contact connectors exclusively. Take every care to avoid short-circuits and reversed polarity. The high energy density of Li-Po batteries involves a risk of fire and even explosion. A radio-controlled model aircraft can only work properly and fulfil your expectations if it is built very carefully and in accordance with the building instructions. If you wish to avoid injuring people and damaging property it is essential to be careful and painstaking at all stages of building and operating your model. Nobody would climb into a full-size aircraft and attempt to fly it without undergoing suitable training beforehand. Successful model flying is only possible with suitable training and plenty of practice. As manufacturers we are not in a position to influence the way you build and operate your RC model aircraft, and for this reason we deny all liability. All we can do is expressly point out the hazards involved in this activity. We suggest that you ask an experienced model flyer for help, or join a model club or flight training school. Your local model shop and the specialist magazines are excellent sources of information. If at all possible, it is always best to join a club and fly at the approved model flying site. You alone are responsible for the safe operation of your radio-controlled model. If you have any questions regarding the safe operation of your RC model aeroplane, please turn to your local model shop in the first instance, as the staff will be pleased to help you. Adhesives and paints contain solvents which may be hazardous to health under certain circumstances. Read and observe the notes and warnings supplied by the manufacturer of these materials. The operator of the model must be in full possession of his or her bodily and mental faculties. As with car driving, operating a model aircraft under the influence of alcohol or drugs is not permissible under any circumstances. If there are passers-by or spectators at your flying site, make sure that they are aware of the dangers inherent in your activity before you start the motor, and insist that they keep a safe distance away - at least 5 m behind the rotational plane of the propeller. 23

24 Always keep a safe distance away from people and objects when flying; never fly low over people s heads, and never fly directly towards them. Radio-controlled models should only be flown in normal weather conditions, i.e. a temperature range of -5 to +35 C. More extreme temperatures can lead to changes in battery capacity and material characteristics, weakened glued joints and other unwanted effects. All model flyers should behave in a way that minimises the danger to people and property. Never act in any manner which will disturb other flyers and jeopardise safe, orderly flying at the site. Never operate your model aircraft close to high-tension overhead cables, industrial sites, residential areas, public roads, squares, school playgrounds, public parks or sports grounds etc. Don t ignore our warnings. They refer to materials and situations which, if ignored, can result in fatal injury or permanent damage. Propellers and other rotating parts which are powered by a motor constitute a permanent hazard and represent a real risk of injury. Don t touch them with any part of your body. For example, a propeller spinning at high speed can easily cut your finger badly. Keep well clear of the rotational plane of the propeller. You never know when some part may come loose and fly off at high speed, hitting you or anybody else in the vicinity. Never touch the revolving propeller with any object. Ensure that it is impossible for any object to stall or block the propeller. Take care with loose clothing such as scarves, loose shirts etc. Flapping cloth can easily be sucked into the area of the propeller and then get tangled in the blades; this is extremely dangerous. Every time you intend to operate your model check carefully that it and everything attached to it (e.g. propeller, gearbox, RC components etc.) is in good condition and undamaged. If you find a fault, do not fly the model until you have corrected it. Whenever you are holding the model make sure that you are standing on a stable surface and cannot slip. Wear shoes with high-grip soles, such as trainers. Satisfy yourself that your frequency is vacant before you switch on. Radio interference caused by unknown sources can occur at any time without warning. If this should happen, your model will be uncontrollable and completely unpredictable. Never leave your radio control system unguarded, as another person might pick it up and try to use it. Do not switch on the electric motor unless you are sure that there is nothing in the rotational plane of the propeller. Never attempt to stop the spinning propel- 24

25 ler. Electric motors with the propeller attached should only be run when firmly mounted. If you are to fly your model safely and avoid problems, it is essential that you are aware of its position and attitude throughout each flight - so don t let it fly too far away! If you detect a control problem or interference during a flight, immediately land the model to prevent a potential accident. Models must always give way to full-size aircraft. Take-off and landing strips should be kept free of people and other obstacles. Your RC system can only work reliably if the batteries are kept fully charged. Never use batteries which are hot, faulty or damaged. At all times heed the instructions provided by the battery manufacturer. Before each flight check that all functions on the model aircraft are working correctly, and that the radio control system is in good order and operating at full range. Note that the motor control (throttle) function on the transmitter must always be moved to the OFF position as the first stage in preparing for a flight. To avoid the danger of the electric motor bursting into life unexpectedly, always switch on the transmitter first, and only then the receiving system. The opposite applies at the end of a flight: always switch off the receiving system first, and finally the transmitter. Check that the control surfaces follow the movement of the transmitter sticks: Move the rudder stick to the right, and the rudder should deflect to the right. Pull the elevator stick back towards you, and the elevators must deflect up. Move the transmitter controls smoothly at all times; don t jerk the sticks about abruptly when the model is in the air. Please don t misunderstand the purpose of these notes. We only want to make you aware of the many dangers and hazards which can arise if you work carelessly or irresponsibly. If you take reasonable care, model flying is a highly creative, instructive, enjoyable and relaxing pastime. Notes on building and flying the CLUB STAR II Before you start construction: When you are buying a radio control system it is important to ensure that the transmitter and receiving system are designed for use with model aircraft, and are approved by your national Post Office approvals authority. All RC units should possess an FTZ series approval number. Please remember that other radio systems and radio-frequency apparatus are also permitted to operate in the frequency ranges used by model radio control equipment, and there is no guarantee that your system will not suffer interference caused by such apparatus. 25

26 In most countries no fee is payable for operating a radio control system for model aircraft on the approved channels in the 35 MHz and 2.4 GHz bands. If you are not sure whether this applies to you, contact your nearest Post Office Telecommunications office. Your local model shop will also have this information. Instructions and warnings relating to the use of LiPo batteries Please read the instruction sheet included with every battery pack for general information on the use of LiPo batteries. General warnings These batteries must not come into contact with fire or ashes. The cells must not be allowed to contact fluids such as fresh water, salt water or drinks. Avoid contact with liquids of all types. Individual cells and batteries are by no means toys, and must never be allowed to get into the hands of children. Store cells and batteries well out of the reach of children. Batteries must not be left within reach or in the vicinity of babies or toddlers. If a child should swallow a battery, call for a doctor or emergency medical assistance without delay. Batteries must not be placed in a microwave oven, nor subjected to pressure: the results may be smoke and fire or worse. Never attempt to dismantle Li-Po cells. Taking a battery apart can cause internal short-circuits, which could result in gassing, fire, explosion and other problems. The electrolyte and electrolytic vapours are injurious to health. Avoid direct contact with the electrolyte at all costs. If the material gets in your eyes, on your skin or other part of your body, it is essential to wash the affected area immediately with copious amounts of clean water. Consult a doctor as soon as possible thereafter. Batteries installed in a device should always be removed from the apparatus if it is not to be used again in the immediate future. Always switch off such devices after use to avoid discharging the cells to a dangerous level. Recharge the batteries in good time. Store batteries on a non-flammable, heat-resistant and non-conductive surface. If you allow a Li-Po battery to become deep-discharged, it will inevitably be ruined, and must not be used again. IMPORTANT: when the flight battery is exhausted, you must not dispose of it in the household waste. Take the pack to your local battery reclamation centre. IMPORTANT: when the useful life of the model and the transmitter are over, do not discard them in the domestic rubbish. The electric and electronic components in particular must be taken to your nearest electrical recycling centre. Ask your local authority if you are not sure of its location. 26