The Olympic DLG. (Discus launch glider) by Chris Brislin

Transcription

1 The Olympic DLG (Discus launch glider) by Chris Brislin 1

2 Contents Parts List/ What you need 3 Before you begin 4 Wing Construction 5-9 Pod Construction 9-13 Tail assembly 13-? Control linkages 9-10 Finishing 11 Before you fly

3 Parts Included in this kit should be the following wooden pieces: Included: 4x Black 3mm balsa 6x Blue 1.5mm balsa 1x Green 6.5mm balsa 1x Red 0.6mm Ply 1x Purple 3mm Ply 1x Orange 1.5mm Ply 1x Instruction Manual 2x Carbon Strips 1x 6mm Carbon tube 1x Fiberglass strip 2x 0.5mm Piano Wire 1x Golden Rod 1x Carbon Roving 1x 3mm Carbon rod 1x M3 Bolt 1x M3 T-Nut 2x Micro EZ connectors Extra sheets of 3mm Balsa Required: Thin Cyano (CA) Zap or equivalent Epoxy (5 min) Receiver (3 channel) Battery (200mah, small enough to fit in fuselage) Regulator (if using lithium power) 2x 9g Micro servo (HS55 or equivalent) Covering (SoLite or equivalent) Tools: Drill 3mm Drill bit Scalpel Ruler Sandpaper Dremel or equivalent rotary cutting tool 3

4 Before you Begin Thankyou for purchasing your Olympic DLG (Discus Launch Glider)! The sport of DLG s is a fast growing one and is one of the most challenging and fun disciplines of the sport. First off a few warnings, the Olympic DLG is quite a solid plane and can fly at quite a speed, take care not to fly it towards anyone. If you have never flown RC before, the Olympic DLG can be a very good plane to learn on, but seek the help of an experienced modeller before your first flight. Do not fly in enclosed spaces; keep away from trees and power lines. The construction of the Olympic DLG is extremely light but when put together, extremely strong. The individual parts can be quite delicate when assembling so please take care when handling the parts. The model can be assembled entirely with thin CA but Epoxy is recommended for some areas of high stress. Please take the time to read few this manual a few times before beginning construction. When assembling your kit, keep in mind that the lighter it is, the better it will fly! So choose your equipment carefully to keep the weight down and use glue sparingly. A covering such as SoLite is recommended as it is much lighter than most conventional films and will aid the performance of the model. Upon receiving your kit, please inspect that all the parts are present and are in good condition. If anything is broken or missing please contact Aero Vinyl at info@aerovinyl.com or call on With all this in mind, enjoy your build and enjoy flying your new Olympic DLG!! 4

5 Wing Construction: 1. Set aside a clean flat workspace. The wing is built in 3 segments, a center section and two polyhedral tips. Locate all the pieces for the wing (the flat carbon, all the 1.5mm balsa sheets, and the main 3mm spars). 2. Locate all the biggest ribs (for the centre section) and line them up on the spar. Note that the ribs on the end of the center spar are 3mm balsa, and that the center most 1.5mm ribs are slightly narrower than the other main ribs to account for the sheeting. 3. Locate the 1.5mm balsa leading and trailing edges. The leading edge slides into the notches in the front of the ribs. Make sure the ribs are pushed all the way down on the main spar so as to accommodate the flat carbon strip. 5

6 4. Locate the 1.5mm balsa trailing edge. It is very similar to the leading edge but has slightly different in the center to accommodate the center sheeting. Now that the wing is all jigged up, ensure it is completely straight and add a drop of thing CA to all the joints. 5. Locate the 3mmx1mmx1000mm flat carbon strip. Lie it on top of the main 3mm balsa spar and in the notches of the ribs. Cut the excess carbon flush with the end of the ribs. Glue the carbon cap on top and bottom with thin CA. 6. Once the carbon caps are installed securely locate the leading edge sheeting for the center wing segment. Install the bottom sheeting FIRST. It should locate flush with the ribs. Using thin CA attach it to each rib, the main spar and the leading edge strip. Trim the excess balsa flush with the leading edge strip. 6

7 7. Locate the 3mm light ply spar reinforcer. Glue this between the two center ribs, against the main balsa spar, aligning the 3mm hole in the middle. Locate the leading edged peg. Drill a hole from the leading edge of the bottom sheeting, at an angle to meet the whole in the middle of the spar. Slide the peg into this hole and secure it with Epoxy. 8. Locate the top leading edge sheeting and secure it to the carbon cap with thin CA. Pull it around the curve of the ribs and secure it to the leading edge strip with thin CA. Then, place a single drop of thin CA on each rib through the lightening holes. Trim the excess sheeting flush with the leading edge strip as with the bottom sheeting and sand the entire leading edge to a nice curve (pictured above). 9. Sheet the center two ribs with the sheeting supplied. Pay close attention to the top trailing edge sheeting which needs to taper away to zero thickness. Once this sheeting is done give the entire center section a sand with 600 grit sand paper. 7

8 10. The wingtips are constructed in much the same manner as the center section. Locate the tip ribs and order them from the biggest to the smallest. Note that the two tip ribs are 3mm balsa. Then locate the trailing and leading edge strips. The leading edge strip has the notches for the ribs cut at an angle so that the tip sweeps back. Pay careful attention to the orientation of these strips and that they match the notches in the main spar. They only go one way around! If you are right handed, put the rib with the rectangular slot on the left wing tip and vice versa. Assemble the ribs on the leading and trailing edge strips first. 11. Slide the ribs the full way down onto the main spar, making sure the inboard rib is flush with the spar and has the correct angle built in. 12. Add the carbon caps and sheeting as per the center section. Note that the carbon on the tip segments only extends to the second rib from the end. Secure it all with thin CA and sand to a smooth rounded finish. 8

9 13. Sand the ends of each wing segment ensuring they are straight and flat. Join the tip segments to the center segment using thin CA. Ensure the entire joint is secure. You should have one nearly complete wing. 14. Locate the 3mm Lite-ply wing tips. CA the launching tip (identifiable by its locating tab and the hole for the launching peg) to the corresponding rib with the rectangular slot. CA the other tip to the opposite side. Sand the trailing edge of the tips down to match the profile of the 1.5mm trailing edge. CA the 3mm balsa tip braces on. Secure the launching peg in the tip with epoxy. Congratulations the wing is complete! 9

10 Pod Construction 1. Locate the formers, the crutch halves, ply reinforcers and fuselage sides. 2. Assemble the formers F2 and F3a onto the crutch halves. Secure the halves together with thin CA. Add the 0.6mm ply doubler onto the front section of the crutch using thin CA. 3. Assemble the fuselage sides onto the tabs of the crutch. Use thin CA. 10

11 4. CA the front 3mm balsa former, and the rear 3mm Lite-ply former into the pod. 5. Locate the M3 T-nut and the Lite-ply former F3b and press the T-nut into the ply. CA the former into its corresponding notch in the top of F3a and CA it to the fuselage sides. 6. Sheet all the way along the bottom of the pod with the supplied 3mm balsa, making sure the grain is running across the pod. Sheet the rear section just behind F3a/b. Sheet just in front of the wing saddle, 25mm forward and just back from the nose (15mm). Sand all this sheeting flush with the sides of the pod. 11

12 7. CA the front 3mm balsa former, and the rear 3mm Lite-ply former into the pod. 8. Locate the M3 T-nut and the Lite-ply former F3b and press the T-nut into the ply. CA the former into its corresponding notch in the top of F3a and CA it to the fuselage sides. 9. Sheet all the way along the bottom of the pod with the supplied 3mm balsa, making sure the grain is running across the pod. Sheet the rear section just behind F3a/b. Sheet just in front of the wing saddle, 25mm forward and just back from the nose (15mm). Sand all this sheeting flush with the sides of the pod. 12

13 10. Locate the 6mm nose blocks. CA the 4 pieces together to form a block and CA this to the nose of the pod. Sand to fit the contours of the pod. 11. Sand the pod smooth and round the edges. Congratulations the Pod is complete!! 13

14 1. Locate the vertical and horizontal stabilizers. CA the remaining flat carbon strip into the laser cut slots. 2. Sand the leading edges of the horizontal and vertical stabilizers to a nice smooth rounded edge