Kohl s Defect Classification List-Softlines

Transcription

1 Kohl s Classification List-Softlines Classification Lists for SOFTLINES: Apparel o Denim, knit, sweaters, woven Accessories (Worn) o Gloves, hats, mittens, scarves, socks, tights Home Textiles o Bedding, kitchen linens & textiles, pillows, rugs, towels, window treatments, wraps

2 TABLE OF CONTENTS Introduction 2 Appearance (A) 3 Components and Trims (T) 4 Components and Trims (T) (Continued) 5 Construction (C) 6 Construction (C) (Continued) 7 Construction (C) (Continued) 8 Construction (C) (Continued) 9 Fabric (F) 10 Finishing & Packing (FP) 11 Seams (SM) 12 Stitching (ST) 13 Stitching (ST) (Continued) 14 Revision Index 15 KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 1 of 15 Revised: 03.18

3 Introduction Kohl s has Critical/Major/Minor Classification Lists for Apparel, Accessories and Home Textiles s are grouped according to: o Appearance o Components and Trim o Construction o Fabric o Finishing and Packaging o Seams o Stitching Critical = Not Allowed Major = 1 point Minor =.5 points How to Use Classification Lists (DCL): A serious defect resulting in hazardous/ unsafe conditions for an individual, causing potential injury/harm to the wearer. A critical defect can and should be identified during production and/or an inline (IL) inspection. Most critical defects can be avoided if discussed and addressed at the pre-production meeting (PPM) If defects can be rectified, factory must 100% re-inspect and repair all defective garments before they are re-audited by auditor or their designated representative. If a defect cannot be rectified, the entire shipment cannot be released and must be destroyed. s which affect the appearance, performance or durability to such a degree: o o A customer would not purchase the product if they saw the defect. The defect will result in dissatisfaction when first worn or after first wash. o A rejection based on these defects will normally require 100% inspection and correction by vendor/factory and re-audit before shipment Product must also conform to the appropriate Performance Standards/Test Category. A departure from Kohl s technical specification or quality standards to such a degree o The defect may result in early repair, customer return, or unsightly presentation. o Affects the product s appearance or durability, and possibly reduce its salability. 1. & Product Specific defect classification lists are to be used for defect identification during Product Inspections 2. All defects identified are to be reported in an Inspection Report 3. If the same selling unit has multiple defects, all should be documented but: 1 defects within a selling unit/garment/pack = 1 defect 4. No critical defect is allowed KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 2 of 15 Revised: 03.18

4 Appearance (A) Description Critical Major Minor MAA01 Garment cut or sewn as to appear asymmetric at arms length MAA02 Excessive fullness or puckering, affecting the appearance at arms length MAA03 Obvious shading within a garment MIA101 Shaded trim or findings, adversely affecting appearance KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 3 of 15 Revised: 03.18

5 Components and Trims (T) Description Critical Major Minor CT01 Broken or defective trims for all products CT02 CT03 CT04 CT05 CT06 CT07 CT08 Insecure or loose setting of component parts for infant and children's products, i.e. buttons, snaps, stones or other miscellaneous parts Snap, rivet, burr or shank button set on uneven foundation or over a thick foundation for infant and children's products Snap or shank button with exposed prongs or protruding for all products Snap not functioning properly open / close pressure too loose or too tight for infant and children's products Sharp edges, i.e. broken needles, staples, snaps, rivets, wire, pins, improperly trimmed sequin edges or any sharp plastic or metal parts for all products Excessively long/loose threads or trim which could present a choking hazard to an infant or child if they become entangled, including floats on back of jacquard knits Any small component or trim that fails attachment strength throughout production, especially for infant and children's products CT09 Exposed metal claw top/bottom stop zippers CT10 Care label illegible or inadequate instructions, incorrect fiber content, wrong country of origin or RN number or label placement not per federal guidelines CT11 Cut panels that are smaller/larger than the pattern by 1/4 or more MAT01 MAT02 Unapproved components or trim that affect performance, i.e. incorrect interlining, inferior elastic, bias binding vs. warp cut binding Specified components or trim missing, damaged or not functioning as intended. Interlining o Interlining must be compatible to fabric; fusible must adhere properly o If lined, lining must not be visible below finished hem Buttons o Missing buttons o Inverted buttons o Buttons not as specified, i.e. style o Buttons under 14 ligne must have 4 holes Zippers o Any malfunction o Claw type stopper may not be used o o Aluminum zipper may not be used Any zipper component not as specified that detracts from the appearance of the garment, i.e. zipper teeth/pull/tape color, size, length KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 4 of 15 Revised: 03.18

6 MAT02 MIT101 MIT102 Components and Trims (T) (Continued) Description Critical Major Minor Hook & Eyes / Rivets / Snaps / Grommets / Eyelets o Any malfunction, i.e. rivets, snaps, grommets, eyelets that were not properly fastened to the fabric o Missing hook and eye, rivets, snaps, grommets, eyelets o Hook & eye or snaps misaligned when setting, causing bumps or bulges when closed Elastic / Cording / Drawstring o Elastic stretch or recovery adversely affecting performance or appearance o Cording or drawstring requirements as per the CPSC/ASTM F Belts o Belt not as specified, i.e. color, width, length, # of eyelets, buckle Any component not of specified color, dimension, or appearance. Examples: shoulder tape, interlining, elastic, zippers, buttons or snaps Care labels must be positioned at specified location +/- ¼ and fully visible KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 5 of 15 Revised: 03.18

7 CC01 CC02 Construction (C) Description Critical Major Minor Zipper guide required for all infant product, apparel designed to fit next to skin size 0-7, all insulated outerwear for size 0-20 and all children s apparel/outerwear with a metal zipper Drawstrings or ties not meeting length requirements for baby and kids products CC03 Drawstrings at head or neck for infant or children's product CC04 Collar, neckline or focus area is asymmetric CC05 MAC01 Plaid match, fabric nap or grainline direction does not meet what was specified Any construction method adversely affecting the performance of the garment MAC02 High/low pocket set that affects the appearance at arms length MAC03 Zipper set too close to fabric, causing interference with the fabric when zipping/unzipping MAC04 Sleeves set in backwards MAC05 Pile direction not as specified MAC06 Visible drill holes MAC07 Unbalanced plaids or stripes, affecting the appearance at arms length MAC08 Collar/placket not balanced if over ¼ Front, Back and Assembly MIC101 Front is uneven at the bottom in excess of ¼ MIC102 Underfacing shows on the top side of the garment MIC103 Component to component or joining seams (rib cuff seam to sleeve seam, crotch to seat, waistband to sideseam and underarm seams) seam alignment worse than ¼ MIC104 Darts uneven in length in excess of ¼ MIC105 Darts poorly shaped with large bubbles at the end MIC106 Darts not properly located KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 6 of 15 Revised: 03.18

8 Construction (C) (Continued) Description Critical Major Minor MIC107 Waistband irregular or not uniform in width in excess of ¼ MIC108 Shirring not uniformly distributed MIC109 MIC110 MIC111 Right vs left sideseam or inseam lengths not to exceed greater than ¼ difference, shorts, tops, or pants Neck rib and short sleeve cuff rib width variance greater than +/- 3/16 Long sleeve cuff rib, bottom rib and turtleneck rib width variance greater than +/- ¼ MIC112 Placket set off the grain line of the front greater than ¼ MIC113 Fly that gaps or doesn t lay flat, exposed zipper tape when fly is closed Sleeve and Armhole MIC114 Sleeve set basting or stay stitch showing on outside MIC115 Underarm seam not aligned with side seam in excess of ¼ MIC116 Cuffs set unevenly MIC117 Cuff facing to sleeve seam misaligned in excess of ¼ MIC118 Sleeve to side seam misaligned in excess of ¼ MIC119 On tanks or muscle tanks right strap versus left strap width difference cannot exceed: 1/8 on straps of less than 1-1/2 specified width ¼ on straps 1-1/2 and over specified width MIC120 Right versus left sleeve lengths different by over ¼ Collar / Collar Setting, Lapel & Cuff MIC121 Excessive fullness, puckers or twisting of top collar MIC122 Collar points distinctively ill-shaped or not uniform MIC123 Length of collar points uneven in excess of 1/8 KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 7 of 15 Revised: 03.18

9 MIC124 MIC125 Construction (C) (Continued) Description Critical Major Minor Corded, piped or other inserted trim conspicuously uneven, loose or tight Undercollar showing outside of top collar, topstitch seams not balanced top to bottom (rolled) MIC126 Collar noticeably off center when attached to garment MIC127 Center back neck seam not covered by collar MIC128 Cuff facing uneven, twisted or poorly sewn MIC129 Collar/placket not balanced by ¼ Pocket MIC130 Corresponding horizontal pockets are uneven or misaligned in excess of ¼ MIC131 Conspicuously crooked pocket MIC132 Weight and color of pocketing material not as specified MIC133 Pocket size not as specified MIC134 Non-uniform shaped or biased pockets more than ¼ side to side or top to bottom, noticeable at arms length Belt Loop MIC135 Conspicuously crooked belt loop - off perpendicular by 1/8 or more MIC136 Belt loops misplaced by ¼ or more MIC137 Color or shade of loop not as specified MIC138 Thread color must match unless otherwise specified KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 8 of 15 Revised: 03.18

10 Hem Construction (C) (Continued) Description Critical Major Minor MIC139 Excessively puckered or twisted hem MIC140 Open hem greater than ¼ MIC141 Sleeve hem uneven, twisted or poorly sewn MIC142 MIC143 High/low bottom hem difference greater than ½ side to side, or back to front Binding, elastic or hem mismatched at sideseam, leg, sleeve, or waist opening over 1/8 Button / Buttonhole MIC144 If the hole is too small to work easily or too big to stay closed MIC145 Ragged edges caused by cut of dull knife causing fabric pulls MIC146 Out of alignment or improperly spaced as to distort results MIC147 Thread shade does not match specified color MIC148 Incompatible density of stitching in relation to the fabric KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 9 of 15 Revised: 03.18

11 MAF01 MAF02 MAF03 MAF04 MAF05 MAF06 MAF07 Fabric (F) Description Critical Major Minor Hole - a break in the yarn involving a minimum of two ends Dropped stitch/run needle malfunction in knits that can cause a run Broken ends broken warp yarns that have been repaired Single Yarn or number of yarns less than the rest of the yarns Horizontal or vertical lines that are permanently knit or finished into the fabric and that are visible at arms length, such as: Needle lines vertical crack in the fabric caused by a bent needle Compactor marks permanent creases caused by mechanical shrinkage control of knits Barre unevenness in knits that give the appearance of being shaded; due to uneven yarn size, tension or affinity of the yarn to the dye Coarse/Fine ends heavier/smaller diameter yarns than the rest of the yarns Cut off-grain line not cut straight on the warp/fill or wales / courses so as to affect the appearance and/or shrinkage Significant knots, snags or slubs that affect the appearance at arms length Off-color fly waste, knitted in, that affect the appearance at arms length Misweave/Mispicks woven pattern is broken by the absence of a fill yarn Soil, oil spots, or stains that affect the appearance at arms length MAF08 MAF09 MAF10 MAF11 Uneven fabric wash or finish, i.e. excessive abrasion, wash variance extreme within garment Pattern errors, streaks or blotches that affect the appearance at arms length Uneven printing, dyeing, or shading affecting the appearance at arms length Crocking color transfer or staining when handling the product MIF101 MIF102 MIF103 MIF104 MIF105 MIF106 MIF107 Garments not within specified shade range or shade band Conspicuous pilling; use visual standards Printing defects wrong or missing color, incomplete coverage of color, design/pattern direction not as specified. Mismatched stripe/plaid: On sideseam or seatseam when requested in construction specification over ¼ On center front panels or placket over 1/8 On pocket or flaps over 1/8 On center back panels over 1/8 Skewed, bowed or biased fabric solid or stripe over ½ side to side Soil, oil spots, or stains are present, but not conspicuous or affect appearance at arm s length Snags, slubs are present, but not conspicuous or affect appearance at arm s length KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 10 of 15 Revised: 03.18

12 Finishing & Packing (FP) Description Critical Major Minor CFP01 Stones or sand in garment for infant and children's products CFP02 Any foreign item found on garment that could scratch CFP03 Obvious foul smell CFP04 Mold / mildew CFP05 Children s polyester sleepwear missing GPU label with testing # CFP06 Children s sleepwear missing flammability hangtag MAFP01 MAFP02 MAFP03 MAFP04 MAFP05 Pressing defects to include shine, moiré, color change, scorching or other hard pressing defect Not pressed, folded, hung, bagged, packed or assorted as specified. (Reference Store Ready Manual) Any labeling incorrectly placed or not as specified, such as size strips, hang tags, pocket flashers or any other supplemental tag. (Reference Store Ready Manual) Any packaging not as specified, such as hanger, bag, box, box identification, and packing slip Illegible or incorrect printing on hang tags, pocket flashers, or any other supplemental tag MAFP06 Contents of carton not as specified KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 11 of 15 Revised: 03.18

13 MASM01 Seams (SM) Description Critical Major Minor Tight thread tension causing thread or fabric to break when normal tension is applied to total seam length. MASM02 Open seam. MASM03 Colorblocked seams that are not aligned or matched by over 1/8. MASM04 Raw edge on an exposed seam. MASM05 Severe torque/twist at sideseam or leg seam. (Refer to appropriate Performance Standard/Test Category) MASM06 Loose thread tension/linking. MASM07 Excessive space of ½ or more between the top of zipper and fabric seam. MISM101 Any visible twists or puckers on seams MISM102 Sewn in pleat over ¼ inside/outside KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 12 of 15 Revised: 03.18

14 Stitching (ST) Description Critical Major Minor CST01 CST02 Decorative or functional buttons that are not attached with a lock-stitch button-sew machine for all apparel and soft accessories, including all size ranges Insecure button sewing, i.e. missing passes, incomplete passes, missing knots at stitches for infant and children's products CST03 Broken or used needles on or within garment CST04 No use of monofilament thread MAST01 MAST02 MAST03 MAST04 MAST05 MAST06 MAST07 MAST08 Stitches per inch in excess of +2 or -1 from that specified in the tech spec construction details, or if not specified, is inappropriate Stitch type or construction method other than specified in the tech spec construction details, or if not specified, is inappropriate, i.e. lockstitch on a stretch seam End of stitching, when not caught in other seams or stitching, is not backtacked at least ¼ (2-3 stitches) when using a lockstitch (301) or not latched back or condensed when using a chainstitch (440, 500, 600 class) Mending stitch tied in less than ½ on each end of a repair. Repairs of 401 chainstitch must be made with lockstitch or completely re-done with chainstitch ive stitching, such as: Chainstitch (401), Overedge (504), Safetystitch (515) any broken, missing, cut or skipped needle stitches Lockstitch (301) not more than 1 skipped stitch per 6 sewn permitted on key topstitch operations or any broken or cut stitches Buttonhole (404) skipped stitches, cut stitches, stitches not securely caught in fabric, incomplete stitching, uncut, or not aligned as specified Buttons (101) not securely sewn with a lockstitch, not cross-stitched when specified Bartacks (404) not as specified in length, placement, width, or completely missing Blindstitch (103, 503) excessive pick 3/32 or more, or tight tension causing distortion or puckering Irregular or uneven stitching or topstitching depending on location Run-off topstitching, depending on location Use of thread size or type other than specified affecting seam strength or elasticity 1 untrimmed thread at 3 or more outside the garment or exposed at the hem from inside 3 or more untrimmed threads at 1 ¼ to 2 ¾ outside the garment or exposed at the hem from inside Functional or decorative stitching that is uneven or out of alignment by over 1/8. MIST101 Run off stitches, outside: over ¼ MIST102 Topstitching - Single or double needle not overlapped, stitch on stitch at start and finish KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 13 of 15 Revised: 03.18

15 Stitching (ST) (Continued) Description Critical Major Minor MIST103 5 or more untrimmed threads at 1 or less outside garment MIST104 1 to 2 untrimmed threads at 1 ¼ to 2 ¾ outside the garment or exposed at the hem from inside KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 14 of 15 Revised: 03.18

16 Revision Index Date Product Type Revision 03/13/18 Softlines updated 10/10/15 Pet Items Added 01/03/13 Finishing & Packaging P12 added critical for children s product Soft Sculpture/Plush W20 added critical/major clarification Appearance A6 changed to critical 09/28/11 Soft Sculpture/Plush Workmanship, Functionality, Safety C7 Open seam (Critical - ¼ or more, Major - under ¼ ) KOHL S DEPARTMENT STORES Page 15 of 15 Revised: 03.18