Inside Pocket Corners Treatments

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1 Best & Better Preferred Method Pre-Creased pocket hem Pocket is prehemmed prior to attaching and attached so that there is no visible raw edge inside the pocket to fray out Turned against body OR Turned in between creased hem and pocket Better & Good Preferred Method Dog eared or turned down corners Inside corners of pockets are turned down at a 45 degree angle & caught under pocket attach stitch All raw edge and fray stays inside the pocket. Trimmed and caught inside corner stitching Trimmed at a 45 Degree angle Good/Minimum Method Trimmed Corners Inside corners of pockets are trimmed at a 45 degree or greater angle & caught under pocket attach stitch All raw edge and fray stays inside the pocket. A variant of this would be to trim the corner so it is inside the stitch re-enforcement Inside Pocket Corners Treatments

2 Top of flap & pocket should run straight at a right angle from the edge of the front. Unless specified button should be positioned 1/2 above the bottom of the flap, and sit centered in the buttonhole. Tolerance +/- 1/16 If possible, the button should be set on the hem so it is sewn through more than one layer. If not possible a non-woven medium weight gromet should be used Flap is centered over pocket Tol +/- 1/16 1/2 Set Flap 1/2 above top of pocket. Tol +/- 1/16 Top of flap must be parallel to top of pocket Tol +/- 1/16 No Raw edge or frayed yarns should be visible under flap. Unless specified flap will be a minimum of 1/8 wider then top of pocket, extending 1/16 on each side. A running 2 to 3 stitch backtack must be used on the attach stitch and the topstitch, unless zig zag bar tacks are used. Pocket & Flap Construction Standard

3 L-TACKS, RECTANGULAR AND TRIANGULAR Reinforcements should start and stop with a two to three stitch back-tack. Stitch should start and stop at or slightly below the hem stitch line. On rectangular reinforcements, the space between the needles should be consistent with the top-stitching on other components of the garments, unless otherwise specified. L-Tacks must back=tack over the horizontal cross over stitch. DOUBLE TRACK TOP-STITCH Distance between needles must be sonsistent with the top-stitching on other components of the garment, unless otherwise specified. Top-stitching at the top corners should cross over at the top and not run off. Top-stitching must start and stop with a two to three stitch back-tack or the stitches must lock over each other. DOUBLE TRACK WITH BAR-TACKS The two rows of top-stitching must be secured by bar-tacks. One stitch run off allowed. Bar-tacks to start and stop no more than 1/16 past the top-stitching. Bar-tacks should be no more than 1/8 thick and should be tight in density. Bar-tacks should be no more than 1/16 from the top of the pocket. Pocket - Corner Reinforcement Standards

4 POCKET ALIGNMENT & PATTERN MATCHING POCKET ALIGNMENT, DRESS, BLOUSE, & SPORT SHIRTS Top of pocket should run straight at a right angle from the edge of the front. Pocket must vertically align parallel to the edge of the centerplacket, as ilustrated (Bottom point should be taked above the radius of pocket.) Pocket must Horizontally align across the top of the pocket at a right angle from the edge of the centerplacket. TOLERANCE FOR POCKET SKEWING IS 1/8 Pocket must lay flat and be free of excess fabric due to poor pocket attaching. PATTERN MATCHING FOR FANCIES FABRIC STYLE PATTERNS. Measure above the radius or curve of the pocket. Kohl s requirements for pattern matching on all plaids, stripes, checks, directional weaves, is a perfect match between pocket and front. All Horizontal and Vertical stripes must be balanced across pocket. Tolerance 1/16 Tolerance for alignment of vertical and/or Horizontal Stripes from pocket to the front is 1/16. Pocket Alignment & Pattern Matching

5 Straight hem height must be consistent across the width of the pocket Point of V-hem pocket is to be centered on the width of the pocket. Hem stitched is an edge stitch not to exceed 1/16. Pocket hem must be clean finished - double turned, stitched down. Fabrics with a face side must hem to the inside of the pocket. Turned under hem should be no less than 3/8. Attaching edge stitch must not exceed 1/16, including radius on rounded corner pocket styles. Attach stitch may vary based on design requirements, margin must be consistent. Both point of hem & pocket must be centered or within tolerance Point of V bottom or spade shaped pockets are to be centered on the width of the pocket bottom. The shaped of mitered corner pockets must be consistent from left to right side of pocket. The creased hem must be uniform in width on all three sides. Creased hem uneven from side to side is unacceptable Creased hem is to be no less than 3/8, and should not exceed 1/2 Creasing of pocket shape must be uniform and consistent with attach stitching. Sewing threads must be trimmed to 1/16. Pocket corner is not uniform with other corner and is unacceptable Pocket - Hem, Creasing & Attach Standards