BONUS DOLL PATTERN: ILMARIA: GUARDIAN OF THE STARS 16-INCH (43CM) ALL CLOTH DOLL 2009 PATTI MEDARIS CULEA

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Martin Harvey
5 years ago
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1 BONUS DOLL PATTERN: ILMARIA: GUARDIAN OF THE STARS 16-INCH (43CM) ALL CLOTH DOLL 2009 PATTI MEDARIS CULEA 1

2 Ilmaria Cloth Doll Making Supplies 1/3 yard/meter White 100% Cotton Fabric for the body Thread to match Good Quality Stuffing Stuffing and Turning Tools 6 Pipe Cleaners for wiring fingers 20-inch length (53cm) 7-inch (17cm) wide White Lace for skirt 16-inch (43cm) 3-inch (7cm) wide Trim for bodice, cuffs and shoes 12-inch (30cm) Narrow Trim for waist Dye Na Flow, or other All Purpose Dye, in colors for flesh and body Lumiere or Stewart Gill Byzantium Paints used for Stamping Rubber Stamps in Designs for body decoration Brushes Container for water Container for mixing colors Size 11/0 Seed Beads in two colors 10 grams each 5 Leaf-shaped Beads Yarn or Glitzy Threads for the Wand and Necklace Colored Pencils for coloring features Detailing Pens suitable for Fabric Micron Pigma, Zig Millennium, Copic Multiliners, etc., are all good choices Wooden Stick from a Tree in length of choice Wooden Star found at craft stores Mohair or Tibetan Goat for hair Sculpting, Hand Sewing and Beading Needles Beading Thread

3 A simple doll body is made which allows a smooth surface for stamping and dyeing. Ilmaria s hands are wired so they can be posed to hold her star wand. She s an elf, thus no wings. Very easy beadwork finishes this lovely doll. Before you start: Look over the pattern pieces carefully. Note those that have one solid line. These are tracing and sewing lines. Those with a dashed line inside the solid line are the cutting and sewing seams. Use an open toed foot on your sewing machine. This allows you to see your traced lines. Shorten the stitch length on your sewing machine from 2.0 to 1.8 or 1.5. You ll trace two arms, two hands, and two legs. The rest are traced just once. Abbreviations - RST right sides together RSO right sides out INSTRUCTIONS The Head: 1. Trace the pattern pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the grain line on the pieces where marked. Double the fabric and pin in place. 2. Sew Seam#1 on Head Front and Seam #2 on Head back, leaving open where marked. Cut out both pieces, open up and pin, RST. Sew all the way around, starting at the top of the head. Turn the head RSO and fill firmly with stuffing. Set aside. 2

The Body: 1. Trace the body pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out the Body front and machine sew the darts. Double the fabric under the Body Back and sew Seam#3, leaving open where marked.

Set aside. The Arms: 1. Trace two arms onto the wrong side of the fabric, double the fabric and machine sew from the opening at the wrist all the way around.

4 The Body: 1. Trace the body pieces onto the wrong side of the fabric. Cut out the Body front and machine sew the darts. Double the fabric under the Body Back and sew Seam#3, leaving open where marked. Cut out and sew the darts. 2. Pin the Body Back to the Body Front and sew all the way around, starting at the top of the neck. Turn through the opening in the back and fill firmly with stuffing. Set aside. The Arms: 1. Trace two arms onto the wrong side of the fabric, double the fabric and machine sew from the opening at the wrist all the way around. Cut out, turn and fill with stuffing just to the elbow. Set aside. The Hands: 1. Trace two hands onto the wrong side of the fabric, double the fabric and pin. If you haven t already, lower your machine s stitch length to 1.8 or 1.5. Carefully sew around the hands, starting at the opening of the wrist. Sew two stitches across each fingertip and two stitches in between each finger. Cut out the hands, and cut into the corners in between each finger. Turn the fingers first, then the entire hand. 2. Bend back the tips of each end of 6 pipe cleaners. Bend two pipe cleaners in half for each hand. Insert one end into a finger and the other end into the next finger. Repeat with the last two fingers. The thumb pipe cleaner is left straight. Insert it into the thumb then wrap the long end around the two bent pipe cleaners just past the wrist opening. 3. Fill just the palms of each hand with stuffing. Insert the hands into the arms and finish filling up the arms with stuffing and the wrist of each hand. Whip stitch the hands to the arms. Set the arms aside. 3

The Legs: 1. Trace two legs onto the wrong side of the fabric. Double the fabric, and pin in place. Machine sew all the way around, starting at the opening at the toes. Carefully cut out.

To guarantee you have a right and left leg, put the legs next to each other, toes touching, and cut the slits. Turn, RSO, and fill each leg firmly with stuffing.

5 The Legs: 1. Trace two legs onto the wrong side of the fabric. Double the fabric, and pin in place. Machine sew all the way around, starting at the opening at the toes. Carefully cut out. Before turning, machine sew the toes closed. To do this pin the feet together, matching the seams. 2. Cut a slit at the top of each leg, where marked on the pattern piece. To guarantee you have a right and left leg, put the legs next to each other, toes touching, and cut the slits. Turn, RSO, and fill each leg firmly with stuffing. Before putting the body together it is best to dye and stamp her. First, you need to draw and sculpt the face. I do find it helpful to attach the head to the neck before drawing. This gives me something to hang on to. Otherwise I have her head rolling all over the place. To attach the head, grab the neck with a pair of hemostats and rock the head onto the neck. Ladder stitch the head to the neck. 4

6 Drawing the features: There are many doll books, patterns, websites, blogs, etc., with terrific ways of doing faces. In fact there are some great examples on this DVD! I ll show you here as well some quick and easy steps to creating an elfish face. As you read the following, follow along with the Face page and photos of Ilmaria. 1. To place features split the dolls face in two halves latitude (there is a seam for this) and horizontal. The eyes will be placed on the horizontal line. But, first you need to figure out the spacing of the yes. Divide the ace in 5 th s. You ll see how I split up the face in 5ths on the drawing. Using a pencil, draw a short vertical line on either side of the center seam (#1). 2. The nose is easy as the seam shows you where it is. Straight down from the inside corner of the eyes, draw a dot for each nostril (#2). These dots should be just inside the center fifth lines. 3. Below the bottom curve of the nose, find the halfway point between the nose and the chin. This is the center of the lower lip. Place a mark here (#3). For the rest of the features, follow the chart. The width of each eye takes up the fifth quadrant on either side of the center quadrant (#4). 5

7 4. Measure the width of one eye. The height of an eye is the same as the width. Drop the lower part of the eye about 1/16 th of an inch below the horizontal halfway mark. Make a pencil mark above and below (#5) for the eye height. Draw a square using the pencils marks as references. Imagine that you have drawn an eye socket for each side of the face. An eyeball will fit inside each square. 5. Draw a large circle inside each square for the eyeball. This circle fits tightly inside. Draw another circle inside this circle for the iris. Lastly a small circle for the pupil goes in the center. 6. The outside corners of the lips are in a direct line with the pupil. Make a small dot with the pencil (#6) on both sides of the face. 7. For the lips measure from #3 to the nostrils and find the halfway place. Place a small dot here (#7). Measure between #7 and #3 and find the halfway place and mark this (#8). On #8 and on the seam draw a small circle for the center of the upper lip. On both side, and keeping in the center fifth quadrant, draw larger circles. The lower lip is a large oval, keeping inside that center fifth. 8. Following the drawing, or the dolls face, draw in the eyelids, eyebrows outline the lips and lightly draw the flare of each nostril. 6

8 Sculpting the head: As you read the instructions follow along with the illustration. 1. Thread up the long darner or 3 sculpting needle with 1 yard (meter) of strong thread. Place a knot in the long end of the thread. Anchor this thread to the back of her head. By anchoring, I mean take a stitch in the back of the head. If you just went from the back of her head and started sculpting the knot could pop through and comeout the front of her face. After you have anchored the thread go into the head and out at #1, the inside corner of the eye. 2. Go back into the head, but not too close from where you came out. This can also be a vertical or horizontal stitch. Go down to the opposite nostril (#2). From now on as you go in and out start pulling on your thread to define the features. Not too tightly, or you ll get wrinkles. Look at the features as you sculpt and pull tighter if needed. Also, this is when you ll get the stuffing back into the nose. As you go in and out dig down with your needle and get quite a bit of stuffing between the needle and the surface of the head. 3. Back into the head and up and over to the opposite flare (#3), back into the head and straight across to the other flare (#4). 4. Back into the head and down to the opposite nostril (#5). Back into the head and up to the opposite inside corner of the eye (#6). 5. Back into the head and down to the outside corner of the mouth, on the same side of the face (#7). Back into the head and up to the outside corner of the eye (#8). 6. Back into the head and over to #9 (inside corner of opposite eye). Back into the head and down to the outside corner of the lips (#10). Back inside the head and up to the outside corner of the eye (#11). Back into the head then to the back of the head and anchor off. 7

Direct dyeing the body: Collect the dyes you ve chosen for dyeing the body, along with rubber stamps and the paints for the stamps. The body isn t wet before dyeing.

Either way gives the same effect. 2. It is best to choose two or three colors for the dyeing. Remember as the colors are brushed onto the body they will bleed into each other creating more colors.

9 Direct dyeing the body: Collect the dyes you ve chosen for dyeing the body, along with rubber stamps and the paints for the stamps. The body isn t wet before dyeing. Unless you ve made the doll from silk. 1. You can either stamp the body first, allow the paint to dry then dye; or dye the body then add stamps. It is entirely up to you. Either way gives the same effect. 2. It is best to choose two or three colors for the dyeing. Remember as the colors are brushed onto the body they will bleed into each other creating more colors. Dye the flesh parts first, then the rest of the body. 3. For the body parts start with the lightest of the dyes and brush onto the body where you want. Add more colors. Let the body dry before stamping. 4. If using paints, I love Lumiere and Stewart Gill s Byzantium paints, dab the paints onto your stamps, stamp the image where you want on the body and immediately clean the stamp. Any glittery paint will dry quickly and wreck your rubber stamps. 5. Let the body dry overnight then heat set by either placing on a shoe/sweater rack in your clothes dryer. Set for the highest heat and dry for 15 minutes. Or, use an iron or place in your oven set at 200F,90 to 100c. No hotter or she ll burn up. Cook her for 10 minutes. Colors used on sample: Flesh parts Dye Na Flow equal parts of white and Ecru with a drop, or two of yellow and Cranberry red. Blend well, then brush onto the parts you want to be fleshy. Body colors Yellow, Cranberry Red, Turquoise (all Dye Na Flow) **If you want the salt technique, while the Dye Na Flow is still wet add salt. You can use table salt, coarse sea salt, kosher salt, etc. Each size of salt will give a different effect. Stamping: Lumiere purple and turquoise. 8

10 Dyeing the lace for her clothing: This is great fun. Use the same dyes used for the body. Wet the laces chosen. This allows the dyes to bleed more. 1. Select the colors and brush onto the lace, remembering that the colors will bleed together creating another color. 2. Let the lace dry then iron to set the dye. 9

11 Coloring the face: Follow the close up of the face to do the coloring: 1. Using a brown colored pencil shade the recessed areas of the face, 2. Bring the lighter areas of the face out with a cream or tan color. 3. Add the brightest highlights with a white pencil. 4. Blush the cheeks with Carmine Red, or color of choice. 5. Using a piece of fabric wrapped around a finger, blend all of these colors. You ll be amazed at how much disappears both on the fabric around your finger, and into the fabric of the face. 6. With the lightest color for the eyes color in the entire iris. 7. Use a medium color to color the part of the iris in the shadow. 8. A darker color darkens the upper part of the iris down to the pupil. 9. Using Carmine Red, or similar, color the lips. A darker red is used to darken the upper lip. 10. Use the white pencil to lighten the irises and the lower lip. 11. Feather in the eyebrows with a brown pen and add eyelashes. 12. Outline the lips with a red pen and place a dot of red at the inside of each eye to represent the tear duct. 13. With the brown pen outline the flare of the nose and draw in the nostrils. 14. With the black pen darken the pupils. 15. With the white gel pen, place a highlight in each pupil and whiten the whites of her eyes. 10

Pulling it All Together: 1. Before attaching the legs to the body make the shoes. These are fun and easy. Fussy cut some of the shorter lace to fit on her feet.

Cut another piece of lace for her undies. Hand sew these in place. 4. Cut two small pieces of lace and hand sew at the wrists to cover the seam where the hands were sewn to the arms.

12 Pulling it All Together: 1. Before attaching the legs to the body make the shoes. These are fun and easy. Fussy cut some of the shorter lace to fit on her feet. Wrap the lace around her feet and hand sew in place. Attach seed beads as you do this. 2. Hand sew the legs to the body. Place the head onto the neck and ladder stitch. Don t put her arms on yet. 3. Cut another piece of lace for her undies. Hand sew these in place. 4. Cut two small pieces of lace and hand sew at the wrists to cover the seam where the hands were sewn to the arms. Add a few seed beads as you attach the cuffs. Now attach the arms to the body at the shoulders. 5. Fussy cut one of the pieces of lace for the bodice. This is the same lace used for the shoes. Arrange onto her body and hand sew in place. Add seed beads as you do this. 6. For her skirt, cut one of the longer pieces of lace in a 16-inch (40cm) width and machine sew the back seam, right sides together. Sew a gathering stitch at the waist and place onto Ilmaria. Hand sew in place. 7. To cover the raw edge measure a shorter piece of trim/lace and hand sew at the waist. I added some seed beads here and there as I was sewing the waistband to the body. 11

The Necklace, Hair & Wand: 1. Cut the beading thread into a half-meter length. Thread this onto the beading needle. No knot in the single long end. 2.

Pick up the accent bead and place it in the center. Go back through a couple of the leaf shaped beads to anchor the center accent bead. 3.

Tie this around her neck and with the needle and thread that is still on the flower you created in Step 2, attach this over the braided necklace. 4.

13 The Necklace, Hair & Wand: 1. Cut the beading thread into a half-meter length. Thread this onto the beading needle. No knot in the single long end. 2. Place 5 of the leaf shaped beads onto the needle and thread and take them down to the tail. Tie these into a circle. Pick up the accent bead and place it in the center. Go back through a couple of the leaf shaped beads to anchor the center accent bead. 3. Cut the decorative yarn/thread into a half-meter length and braid together. Tie this around her neck and with the needle and thread that is still on the flower you created in Step 2, attach this over the braided necklace. 4. Place the hair chosen onto her head and hand-sew in place. 5. The wand is the stick chosen and the wooden star glued to the top of the stick. Paint the star and a bit of the stick with gold, or silver paint. Before the paint is dry wrap a bit of glitzy yarn/thread around the star then down onto the stick. Let the paint dry and place the wand into Ilmaria s hands. 12

-- Patti Medaris Culea Here s a back view so you can see how the lace is attached at her back.

14 She s finished and ready to grant wishes as she sees fit. Enjoy and live long and prosper! Oh, sorry. Just saw the new Star Trek movie. Loved it! -- Patti Medaris Culea Here s a back view so you can see how the lace is attached at her back. Another fun embellishment is to add some heat-set crystals here and there. And, a side note. In some of the photo s you ll see ears. I removed them as they didn t work with her hair. 13

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Intermediate Doll. Materials. Tools

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