LYMANBOT 3D PRINTER V3 Construction Manual

Transcription

1 LYMANBOT 3D PRINTER V3 Construction Manual Page 1 Read this whole Manual before starting to construct this Printer. User excepts all liability for the use of this Manual and the construction of this Printer. Lyman is to be held harmless and Lyman excepts no liability. This is not a Toy. Copyright 016 HUGH LYMAN INVENTOR View of Geeetech MK8 extruder Front full view LymanBot 3D Printer V3 while printing The LYMANBOT 3D PRINTER has been conceived from the best features I liked of two Printer Kits, one fully assembled Printer, two sets of plans and a CNC Router. First I designed the Printer in solid model using the features I liked, then I used many parts from one ORD Kit Printer and constructed the first V1 LymanBot Printer. It worked so well I then did the same using parts from the factory assembled TAZ Printer and constructed the next V LymanBot Printer. FEATURES: 80 x 80 x 30mm (11x11x9 ) print area. Open design that allows for easy maintenance. Single Belt Drive System for both X & Y axis. 6mm Z axis threaded rods. 10mm shafts and bearings. Smart LCD controller with SD card. Overall size: 60 W x 500 D x 550mm H (w/o spool holder). 00 T slot aluminum framing. The LymanBot V3 3D Printer is an open source product licensed under: Creative Commons Attribution-Share Alike.0 International License. The following pages illustrates how I built the extruder.

2 Page This shows the V1 Printer, the first one constructed. It is printing padding press parts in black filament. It has a print area of 11 x 11 x 9. This shows the V Printer, the second one constructed. It is printing padding press parts in white filament. It has a print area of 11.5 x 11.5 x 10. Both these Printers are different from V3 and are operated with a Rambo Motherboard and a V power supply. Each features a Full Graphics LCD Controller. V1 Printer Hot Bed is powered with 110V Heater and V is powered with V Heater. The extruders are my own DIY units powered with stepper gear motors with fan cooling with an LED light. V3 printer is different and designed to make a less expensive printer. Read on for the details. Constructing the V3 LymanBot 3D Printer: Here is the frame assembled. All the aluminum T sections are 0 x 0mm and are all the exact same length of 0mm.

3 Page 3 Start with bottom of the frame. Note how the aluminum rails are aligned. The front of the frame is at the bottom of the picture. This makes the frame longer in depth by 0mm. All the tee nuts have to be inserted to each rail before attaching the corners parts. I usually inset an extra one just in case. It is terrible to assemble it and have to dissemble it to add one. Check that it is square when completed. Here the bottom of the frame is assembled. Note the tee nuts in the rails. Forget the lighter and the plastic screw driver, I can t remember what I used them for here. The frame is now 0mm wide and 60mm deep not including the cap screws. Now the vertical posts and the top rail are assembled. Here I used a dowel gauge to make sure the distance between the vertical rails at the bottom and the top are the same. The Y axis shaft brackets and the Z motor brackets are installed here. The Y axis brackets have been changed as you will see later. This is to make it easier to adjust. The position of the vertical post and the Z motor brackets is adjustable. This is to allow for getting the nozzle about 5mm off the bed when in the home position thus allowing extruding prior to printing.

4 Page The Y axis shaft brackets are in two parts, one with the belt attachment arm and other for one shaft. Note there is a 3mm brass insert and 3mm set screw to secure the shaft. The shaft holes in the brackets have to be dressed so that the shaft fits to where it is snug, but can slide in the hole for assembling the Bed to the Frame. The drive belt arm on the Y axis has a slot for the belt attachment and the belt is secured with a clip and two 3mm cap screws. There are two 3mm brass inserts used to hold the belt clips. This assembly achieves easy belt adjustment. Note the single belt is a design used in my CNC Router. This picture shows the arrangement of the vertical post bracket and the Z motor mount bracket. Note the Z shaft end fits into a hole in the motor mount bracket. This bracket has this hole on each side, thus it is the same for the opposite shaft. Here the 6mm threaded rod is coupled to the step motor 5mm shaft with a 1/ clear flexible plastic tube. The motor shaft requires a sleeve for a snug fit. Zip ties are then used to secure the couplers to the shafts. Note that this is a design I liked as used on the TAZ 3D Printer. Zip ties holds the wire in the T slots of the posts. The loose wire is the one from the Z limit switch to the Ramps board and thus it flexes as the X carriage moves up and down.

5 Page 5 I also use this little printed wire clips to hold the wires in the T slots, It is designed to also hold a sleeved set of wires. These may need dressing and they only turn one way. The print running at the time this picture was taken is 19% done and has been printing for 38 minutes. As the Thermistors used are HTC 3950 the Marlin table used does not indicate the correct temperature, so it is set to where it prints correctly. The bed heater being only 1V MKB PCB is slow to heat up and the 7 temp is not correct either. I used a digital thermometer to check the temps. I set the bed temp now at 8 and it holds 8 on the LCD. The Ramps 1. on a Mega 560 R3 is mounted with stand offs so wires can be run behind or tucked in. From past experiences I have found that if there is a problem it has always been a connection. Therefore I leave all the wires exposed for easier correction. Covers for the electronics is your option. If a motor skips a step the Driver must be adjusted. DO NOT ADJUST WITH ANY POWER ON or you will fry the driver as I did many times. The sticker in the Power Supply says CAUTION HIGH VOLTAGE, so remember that! Here the USB is disconnected as the Printer is running off the SD card. Note the X axis motor is mounted to the X carriage and that is the same for the Y carriage.

6 Page 6 This is the top left corner bracket that attaches the rails and holds the top of the 10mm Z shaft. There is a right and left hand bracket. Also visible is the angle bracket that holds the electronic panel and there are three of these. The electronic panel can be made from MDF, Plywood, Hardboard, Plexiglas or 3D printed in two pieces. The one here was 3D printed and the two parts cemented together with solvent cement. Here is a shot of the left Z carriage bracket with the X carriage limit switch installed. Note there is a hole for the limit switch wires at the top and a hole for a 3mm insert and set screw to hold the switch. To the bracket is mounted the Z rod bracket that contains a wobbly brass 6mm x1 nut. See drawings for exploded views. This picture shows the right XZ carriage bracket which only has the XZ rod bracket and shaft set screws. Each of the brackets have 10mm leaner bearings inserted. The brackets may need some dressing for the bearings to fit in snugly. This view shows the vertical post bracket and the Z motor mount bracket and their alignment. These can be adjusted to obtain the correct distance from the bed plate and aligning the vertical shaft with the vertical post. Here I also use a dowel as a gauge from the top to the bottom. Also visible is the Z limit switch bracket which is also adjustable. This view shows the back Y shaft brackets with the Y axis limit switch. Note here the belt is long enough to grip for adjusting. It is then tied with a zip tie to hold the loose end.

7 Page 7 This back view of the X axis carriage shows the stepper motor mounted. Note the two top idler pulleys and the belt which goes over the top and down under the drive pulley mounted on the motor shaft. Before installing the belt make sure the carriage glides smooth and easy on the shafts. You should be able to push it with a finger and it should glide the full length of the travel distance. This is a view of the X carriage from the back. The two idler pulleys each have two bearing inserted and are attached with mm cap screws in brass inserts. Disregard the two visible brass inserts as they were for mounting a different DIY hot end. The bed consists of two 1/8 x 1 x 1 aluminum plates with a 3/16 x 1 x 1 tempered glass that is held in place with paper clips. See the exploded view drawing for the construction. The Y bearing bracket is attached to the bottom plate with 6 M cap screws. The top plate is mounted to the bottom plate with #10-3 FHS, #10-3 hex nuts and #10-3 thumb screws, washers with 1 x 5/16 springs. The BOM shows these in metric sizes. The heater pad is screwed to the top plate after drilling holes and taping them for M3x6mm cap screws. Make sure the screw does not protrude above the top face of the plate. Use washers if needed. The Tap Handle is printed with Lyman Filament. The wires here have to be soldered on the 1V terminals and the thermistor installed. I use kapton tap to secure the thermistor.

8 Page 8 This is the Z axis threaded rod clip that connects to the Z bearing bracket that controls the vertical movement of the hotend. The bottom has hex holes part way up and a round hole on the top (not shown). I thread the 6mm brass nut on the end of the rod and heat it with a butane torch. Then it is pressed into one of the holes to the end of the hex hole and then wobbled a little till it cools. The looseness allows for self alignment as the rods turn. The second hole is only it you screw up, you can try again. OK, it is done and calibrated, so now test it. First test print. 0 x 0 x 0mm test box Second test print. Aphrodite from Thingiverse Third test print. Twisted Vase Basic from Thingiverse A full set of V3 printed parts from this V3 Printer. Sliced with perimeters and 50% infill, Weight = 1.76 lbs Note: I wrap a pipe cleaner around the filament which cleans off any dust on the filament as this is DIY extruded filament from the Lyman Extruder V6. Now study the drawings and BOM before ordering or constructing

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46 Page 6 BOM PART # DESCRIPTION UNIT QTY LYMANBOT 3D PRINTER V3 BOM FOB UNIT PRICE SUB TOTAL SUPPLIER SUPPLIER PART # 1 ABS or PLA Filament LBS $3.00 $1.00 Your choice Pellets If you extrude your own filament Alum Angle Extruder Mount EA 1 $3.00 $3.00 Online Metals 3 Aluminum Plate 1x1x1/8" EA $15.00 $30.00 metalremnantsinc ebay Aluminum T Slot Rails 0x0mm EA 7 $5.00 $35.00 Misumi HF Bearing 13 x 5 x mm ID EA 8 $0.55 $.0 ebay 6 Bearing Linear 10mm ID EA 11 $1.0 $13.0 jamesbondtb ebay 7 Bed Heater EA 1 $15.00 $ dp_champion ebay 8 Belt Timing w/ drive pulleys EA 1 $1.00 $1.00 3dp_champion ebay 9 Coupler Sleeve 5mm ID x 5mm EA $0.10 $0.0 hardware store 10 Coupler Tubing 1/" ID " EA $0.0 $0.0 hardware store Z motor couplers 11 Fan 60mm EA 1 $5.00 $5.00 3dp_champion ebay 1 Geeetech MK8 Extruder EA 1 $36.00 $36.00 efind0813 ebay 13 Glass Tempered 1x1x3/16" EA 1 $7.5 $7.5 Store Supply sales@storesupply.com 1 Kapton Tape FT $0.10 $0.0 3dp_champion ebay 15 Limit Switch EA 3 $1.75 $5.5 UltiMachine 16 M3 Brass Heat Insert Nut EA 1 $0.13 $1.56 McMaster Carr 9180A M3 Set Screw EA $0.10 $0.0 Fastenal 18 M3 Washer EA $0.0 $0.88 Fastenal 19 M3 x 30mm Cap Screw EA $0.7 $0.5 Fastenal 0 M3 x 10mm Cap Screw EA 16 $0.17 $.7 Fastenal M3 x 0mm Cap Screw EA 6 $0. $1.3 Fastenal M3 x 5mm Cap Screw EA $0.5 $1.00 Fastenal M3 x 0mm Cap Screw EA 3 $0.8 $0.8 Fastenal M3 x 5mm Cap Screw EA $0.30 $1.0 Fastenal M3 x 6mm Cap Screw EA $0.17 $0.68 Fastenal M3 Nylock Hex Nut EA 6 $0.10 $0.60 Fastenal 7 M Nylock Hex Nut EA 6 $0.15 $0.90 Fastenal 8 M Washer EA 8 $0.05 $0.0 Fastenal 9 M x 1mm Cap Screw EA $0.0 $0.0 Fastenal 30 M x 30mm Cap Screw EA $0.5 $1.00 Fastenal 31 M5 Hex Nut EA $0.10 $0.0 Fastenal 3 M5 Tee Sliding Nut EA 65 $0.50 $3.50 Misumi 33 M5 Washer EA 8 $0.05 $0.0 Fastenal 3 M5 Wing Nut EA $0.50 $.00 hardware store 35 M5 x 10mm Cap Screw EA 65 $0.5 $16.5 Fastenal 36 M5 x 0mm FHS EA $0.50 $.00 Fastenal 37 Motor Stepper Neama 17, 5.5 KG CM EA $16.00 $6.00 biowavescom ebay 38 Power Cable EA 1 $1.5 $1.5 blairtg ebay 39 Power Cable Clip EA 1 $0.15 $0.15 hardware store 0 Power Supply 1V EA 1 $9.00 $9.00 eshopping080 ebay 1 Power Switch EA 1 $1.00 $1.00 Electric Goldmine illuminated Ramps Mega 560 EA 1 $8.00 $8.00 AliExpress Mega 560, Ramps 1., motor drivers 3 Screws Misc EA 5 $0.0 $1.00 hardware store Shaft 10mm 0mm long EA $9.00 $18.00 mysupertop ebay 5 Shaft 10mm x 50mm EA $9.00 $18.00 mysupertop ebay 6 Shaft 10mm x 80mm EA $9.00 $18.00 mysupertop ebay NOTES

47 Page 7 7 Smart LCD Controler EA 1 $13.00 $13.00 leap3d ebay 8 Spring 1 x 1/" Z limit knob EA 1 $0.50 $0.50 McMaster Carr 9657K8 9 Springs Hot Bed 1.5x5/16" EA $0.50 $.00 McMaster Carr 9657K Threaded Rod 6mm x 300mm (1") EA $6.00 $1.00 McMaster Carr 9335A TTT (This That & The Other) LOT 1 $5.00 $ USB Cable EA 1 $3.00 $3.00 ebay 53 Wire ga LOT 1 $5.00 $ Wood Dowel 10x160mm (3/8"x6 1/" EA 1 $0.50 $0.50 hardware store 55 Connectosr Misc LOT 1 $5.00 $ Zip Ties 100mm EA $0.05 $1.0 ebay 57 Zip Ties 150mm EA 16 $0.05 $0.80 ebay 58 M Brass Heat Insert Nut EA $0.15 $0.30 McMaster Carr These are for mounting the Aluminum Angle SUB TOTAL COST $53.9 ESTIMATED FRT 10.00% $5.33 This list is what I used but you can TOTAL COST $98.6 use other suppliers as you want.