Fellbeast assembly and painting guide. By Paul Mullis (Osbad)

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1 Fellbeast assembly and painting guide By Paul Mullis (Osbad) Materials Used Araldite (epoxy resin) PVA (white glue) Pin vice Paper clips (to cut up for pinning) Sand Model gravel Static grass Crumbled cork Bits of sprue Greenstuff Blu-tac Polyfilla Paints Used Chaos Black Dwarf Flesh Codex Grey Bleached Bone Black Ink Brown Ink Skull White Boltgun Metal Codex Grey Fortress Grey Mithril Silver Shining Gold Graveyard Earth Scorched Brown Dark Flesh Introduction Normally I am not a huge fan of amateur painting guides as I like to find things out myself. However in painting the Fellbeast model I came across one or two issues that made me think that sharing the experience may be worthwhile, at least it may prevent one or two of you falling into the same traps as I did!

2 Assembling the model Normally in the Painting Guides in White Dwarf this paragraph just says stick the model together and fill gaps with Green Stuff or something equally bland. This model is a little more complex however, and I feel a somewhat more detailed explanation is warranted in some areas. Firstly, attaching the wings. As the wings are plastic and have suitably large modelled lugs, you can probably get away without pinning, although I would always prefer to pin as it gives you that extra level of comfort and with plastic components it is a breeze. However, on my Fellbeast model, and on all others I have had the opportunity to examine closely, there are very large gaps that need filling between the wings and body. Now, there are always some gaps in a multipart metal model due to shrinkage in the casting process, and it is something the experienced modeller learns to live with, but these are the largest I have come across for some time and need more than the usual attention they are much larger than on the Balrog (which uses the same wings) for instance:

3 As you can see from the images above, in places the gaps to be filled were some 5 to 7 mm across. In addition, the shape of the edge of the wing as it curves to meet the body does not match very well. As you can see in the illustration below, just clagging Greenstuff in the hole won t work. A considerable degree of filing and modelling is still required. Add in the fact that the wings were designed for the Balrog and therefore have the lava-like texture of the Balrog s skin in places which should be disguised if possible as the Fellbeast in the film had relatively smooth skin. Nevertheless, even with a lot of modelling I was still not entirely satisfied with the final results as you can see from the following images, to the close observer it is still discernable what is original model and what is filler:

4 All I can say is try your best and stick at it longer than I did! Maybe a Dremmel or similar grinder would help I shall be purchasing one soon I think! The second modelling issue to bear in mind is the tail joint. Again, even when pinned and glued perfectly, the modelled parts tend to bulge slightly, and while I filed away the excess as much as I could, there was still a discernable bump visible to the eye. Again a Dremmel or similar might help as the circular grinding attachment would be more suitable than the needle files I had available in getting into the precise area. The final modelling issue, not normally dealt with until the end, is the base. For this model, given the size of the base and the dioramic nature of the modelled stand (a ruined wall with a Gondorian helmet and broken sword) I felt a little more than the usual sand and static grass was required. That being the case I thought it best to do the mucking around with glue and bits and pieces early on in the process so as not to damage any paintwork. I also thought the finished base should be undercoated with the rest of the model so that it all blended in nicely when painted. I therefore filled out the base with some Polyfilla to give an appearance of rough ground. Once that dried I painted the whole ground area of the base with undiluted PVA and stuck on some bits of white metal sprue, model gravel and crumbled cork to give extra interest to the base. The base was then dipped in sand to

5 fill in the gaps. Painting In my choice of paints I originally intended to follow the Eavy Metal Masterclass in UK White Dwarf # 284. However, as you will see from the following I digressed somewhat and my model ended up looking a lot lighter than the Eavy Metal version, which seemed more pleasing to me. Step One - Undercoat Of course, no painting guide would be complete without the obligatory injunction to undercoat your model with Chaos Black. This gives your model that realistic dullness that helps make the overall look of the model natural, as well as providing easy blacklining for the lazy painters amongst us! Step Two Wings, Body, Legs, Neck and Head These were base coated with a 50:50 mixture of Dwarf Flesh and Codex Grey with a little Chaos Black added. This was highlighted up by wetbrushing (i.e. drybrushing but with a bit more paint on the brush i.e. quicker and less controlled) with the same mix with increasing amounts of Bleached Bone added. Note that these are the same basic colours used by the Eavy Metal team except I believe that my definition of a little Chaos Black was littler than their definition! Before the final highlight stage the whole model was washed with a diluted mixture of 50:50 Black Ink and Brown Ink. Step Three Wings again I decided to tone down the wings a little by washing the membranes a final time after the highlighting with the diluted Black/Brown Ink mixture.

6 Step Four Underbelly The underbelly was given the same base coat as the rest of the model, but the highlight stages had more Dwarf Flesh added to the mixture. Step Five Claws and Spines/Fins Again these were basecoated along with the rest of the model, but they were also given extra highlight stages with even more Bleached Bone in the mixture. Step Six Mouth The teeth were basecoated in Bestial Brown, drybrushed with Bleached Bone and then once again lightly with Skull White. The bit was drybrushed with Boltgun Metal.

7 Step Seven Saddle The saddle and straps were base coated Chaos Black to cover where I had caught them while painting the body of the model and then highlighted with a delicate drybrush of Codex Grey. Step Eight Nazgul The Nazgul was Blu-tacked onto a spare base for ease of handling while painting and sprayed with Chaos Black. The sword and armour were drybrushed with Boltgun Metal and the robes very lightly with Codex Grey. Step Nine - Reins Finally, I decided to add reins to my model. I did this after painting the model as I wanted to paint the rider separately, but in the end this did not prove necessary I had forgotten how easy Nazgul were to paint!

8 I made the reins by trimming a thin strip of metal from a flattened, washed, empty tube of tomato puree. The bit was drilled at the front so I could wrap the end of the reins around. And the middle of the loop was tucked under the hand of the Nazgul.

9 Step Ten Base The stonework on the base was drybrushed with Codex Grey and then with Fortress Grey and then lightly with Skull White. The sand was painted with diluted Scorched Brown and drybrushed with Bleached Bone. The helmet and sword were drybrushed in Mithril Silver with details picked out in Shining Gold. They were then washed with dilute Brown Ink to simulate rust, some of the ink was then lightly brushed onto the stone work around the pieces to simulate stains from the rust. Clumps of static grass and spare pieces of foliage were then glued to the base with PVA. Step Eleven Frodo Frodo was undercoated with Chaos Black. His trousers were basecoated with Chaos Black mixed with Scorched Brown and highlighted with the same mixture with Bleached Bone added. The shirt was painted with Graveyard Earth and highlighted with Bleached Bone and skull white. A thinned wash of Black/Brown was then applied over the top. The cloak was painted with Chaos Black mixed with Dark Flesh and highlighted with Dark Flesh and a little Bleached Bone with a final highlight being a drybrush of Fortress Grey. The skin was basecoated with Bestial Brown then highlighted with Dwarf Flesh and fine highlights of 50:50

10 Dwarf Flesh and Elf Flesh. The hair (on head and feet!) was left Chaos Black and drybrushed with Scorched Brown, the feet hair was taken to a lighter shade than the head hair. The waistcoat was basecoated at the same time as the cloak with Chaos Black mixed with Dark Flesh and highlighted as for the cloak, but more Dark Flesh was used and less Bleach Bone in the highlighting stages. The buttons were painted over with Chaos Black again and highlighted with Mithril Silver and the One Ring was painted over With Chaos Black and highlighted with Shining Gold. Paul Mullis (Osbad) osbad@hotmail.com