Feature Test Method/Standard Minimum Rating

Transcription

1 TRANSIT OPERATORS LINE ITEMS: 1 THUR 28 ITSF /CD FABRIC SPECIFICATIONS FOR JACKET, BLAZER AND WINTER TROUSERS (Lines 1 4) The uniform fabric shall be from an established manufacturer and shall be first quality only, Raeford Style with Restora. Fiber Content: Weave: Yarn Ply: Tensile Strength: Ends: Weight: Color: Finish: Shrink Allowance: 55 % polyester 45 % worsted wool Elastique 2-ply warp and filling 220 lbs. in the warp 130 lbs. in the fill 122 per inch (warp) 85 per inch (fill) ounces (lineal yard) 60 inches wide Deep Brown (Chocolate) to match existing Municipal Railway Uniform color and shade. Water repellent, spot and stain repellent-treated with Scotchgard and Restora. No more than 5% in the warp; 3% in the fill FABRIC QUALITY AND TESTING The fabric shall be capable of passing, at a minimum, the following industry accepted tests. Feature Test Method/Standard Minimum Rating Weave / Ply of Yarn Visual n/a I/S D Reapproved 1990 Fiber content AATCC 20A-1995 n/a Tensile W.F. ASTM D n/a Construction W.F. D Reapproved 1990 Pilling (Pressure Tester Method) D Crocking Wet AATCC Crocking Dry AATCC Color Fastness / 40 hrs AATCC Color Fastness / Dry Cleaning AATCC EISENHOWER JACKET, MALE MODEL: Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMIKE or Acceptable Equal 1

2 Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool; Weight: 16-1/2-17 oz. per linear yard; Weave: Elastique; Color: Chocolate Brown; Fabric Reference: Raeford with Restora Waist length Ike jacket with one upper welt pocket and two lower welt pockets, notched lapel, zipper front and shoulder straps with a bi-swing back. COLLAR : Notch lapel style constructing with the lapel measuring 2-3/4 and the collar is 2- ¾ &LAPEL at the widest point. The notch is to measure 1-1/2 deep. The height of the collar in the back is 1-1/2. The collar shall be lined under the collar with 100% wool. OUTSIDE POCKETS: Upper welted breast pocket to be approximately 3-1/2 wide and 5-1/2 deep. The welt is 1 wide. A black leather piping to extend across top of welt. The barrier is a minimum of 1-3/4. Two lower front-slanted welt pocket to measure 6 wide by 6 deep.the welt is 3/4 with black leather piping sewn on the top edge to show 1/8 across of the welt. the barrier is a minimum of 2. All pocketing material to be 70% polyester/30% cotton, 2.9 oz per square yard (60 width) with a minimum 78 X 48 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black. INSIDE POCKETS: SLEEVES: The jacket is to be made with two inside pockets having he following construction and and minimum dimensions: Two horizontal WELTED breast pockets 5-1/2 wide by 7 deep. Sleeves are to be two-piece coat style finished plain without buttons with shoulders pads and sleeve heads. WAISTBAND: Two piece separate waistband 2-1/2 wide. Waistband is double topstitched at the top and ¼ topstitched at the bottom. Waistband shall have a pointed adjustment tab 4-1/2 long by 1-1/2 wide made of same material as the jacket. The tab forms a buttonhole with vertical bar tacks. Each tab shall button with a 36-ligne-bone button 4-hole, color to match fabric. One additional button shall be placed 1-3/4 from the first button. Strap tacked at the tip. SHOULDER STRAPS The shoulder straps shall be made of self-goods. They shall be sewn into the sleeve-head seam, X stitched and topstitched ¼ around the strap. Strap tacked at the neck of the jacket with a 30-ligne solid black brass button. Strap to measure 2 wide at the shoulder and taper to 1-3/4 at the end. BISWING The bi-swing shall be stitched down approximately 3-1/2 from the shoulder seam and up BACK: approximately 3-1/2 from the waistband seam. The pleat in the bi-swing shall be 1-1/2 deep. Bi-swing shall be held in place with a strip of 2 dry cleanable ultra thin lastex across the back. SHOULDER PADS: ZIPPER: LINING: Heavy batting. YKK Vislon #5VS. #5 gauge separator with 5/8-tape autolock. Zipper shall be sandwiched in between outershell and facing so zipper is hidden when zipped shut. Lining material shall be 100% Taffeta Nylon, full lined including sleeves. All exposed seams shall be edge taped, including back center seam, which shall have a 1-1/2 turnback. 2

3 Finish: Must be double pre-shrunk. The lining shall not shrink more than 2% in either the warp or filling direction when tested for shrinkage in sponging and dry cleaning. The lining shall show good color fastnesses to perspiration and dry cleaning. There shall be a rounded sweat shield under each armhole approximately 2 deep at cent and approximately 3-1/2 at the top. Inserted into the armhole lining and edge taped around the perimeter. STITCHING Ike jacket must be stitched with matching thread. Jacket must be cleaned and finished to & FINISHING: eliminate loose threads. EMBLEM: As per SF Muni sample. SIZES: Shorts: 32-46, Regulars: 32-64, Longs LABELS: Jacket must have a permanent label providing care instructions and small woven label indicating jacket size. 2. BLAZER, FEMALE MODEL: LINING: Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMFBLZER01 or Acceptable Equal Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool; Weight: 16-1/2-17 oz. per linear yard; Weave: Elastique; Color: Chocolate Brown; Fabric: Raeford with Restora Shall be a two button rounded front blazer with notched lapels, two lower welted pockets and one breast welt pocket and four inside pockets. Lining material shall be 100% Taffeta Nylon, half lined including sleeves. All exposed seams shall be edge taped, including back center seam which shall have a 1-1/2 turnback. The lower portion of the lining from the outer edge of the back panel to the coat front facing Shall be lined in the same material as the outershell. Finish: Must be double pre-shrunk. The lining shall not shrink more than 2% in either the warp or filling direction when tested for shrinkage in sponging and dry cleaning. The lining shall show good color fastnesses to perspiration and dry cleaning. There shall be a rounded sweat shield under each arm hole approximately 2 deep at center and approximately 3-1/2 at the top. Inserted into the arm hole lining and edge taped around the perimeter. COLLAR: FRONT: Shall be notched lapel. Notch to be 1 wide. Cloth width at collar opening is approximately 3-1/4. Collar width at back center shall be 1-1/2. Under collar cloth shall be 100% wool, 11 oz. and machine felled. Notch lapel with 3/8 topstitched along the front and follows to the rounded bottom. Two button closure using 36 ligne SF MUNI button. Two darts each side of front opening. POCKETS: (Outside) There shall be one upper left breast pocket set in welt pockets approximately 5 wide with a 1 welt on left breast. It shall be 7-3/4 deep. There shall be a single needle topstitched ¼ off edge on sides and along top. Shall have extra side stitches to reinforce. 3

4 There shall be two (2) lower welt pockets. The pockets shall measure 6-1/4 wide and 7-3/4 deep. The bottom barrier shall be 1-1/4. The lower pocket shall be set approximately 9-1/4 above the hem (on a size 42R). (Inside): There shall be two (2) breast welted pockets. Pocket welt shall be reinforced with outershell fabric. The welt shall be 1: around and the edges shall be finished with edge tape. Pockets shall be 6 wide by 7 deep. There shall be two (2) lower welted cash pockets on each side. To be 3-3/4 wide by 4-3/4 deep. Welt stitch shall be topstitched all around. This must be welted into the fabric lower portion of the lining. POCKET: MATERIAL Pocket material to be 70% polyester/30% cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60 width) with a minimum 78 X 48 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black. The two outside slash pockets (one on each side) shall have openings that measure 7 inches each. The pockets shall be approximately 7 inches deep, when measuring from the bottom of the pocket. There shall be a ¾ inch welt and a ¾ inch facing. LOCKER: LOOP BACK: SLEEVES: STITCHING, PRESSING, & FINISHING: LABELS: To be 3/8 wide and 4 long made of 100% nylon ribbed material. Shall be a two (2) piece back without any vents. Shall be two (2) piece, with a plain barrel cuff (no vent or buttons). Blazer must be stitched with matching thread. Blazer must be neatly pressed and properly shaped. Blazer must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads Blazer must have a permanent label providing care instructions with size on the care label. A removable paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL or RN number must be on the cuff. 3. TROUSERS, MALE, WINTER WEIGHT MODEL: LINING: Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMTRS01 or Acceptable Equal Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool; Weight: 16-1/2-17 oz. per linear yard; Weave: Elastique; Color: Chocolate Brown; Fabric Reference: Raeford with Restora. Trouser shall be manufactured from an up-to-date men s uniform trouser pattern. The trouser styling shall include a stretchable waistband: plain front, two (2) quarter top front pockets, and two (2) hip pockets, and two (2) cut in cargo pockets. The pocketing and fly lining material shall be 70% Polyester/ 30% Cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60" width) with a minimum 78 x 48 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black. 4

5 WAISTBAND: The waistband shall be constructed using the "closed method" and shall measure minimum CURTAIN: of 1-7/8" wide when finished. The waistband curtain shall finish a minimum 2-1/4 wide and is to be made of the same fabric and color as the pocketing material and must be attached to the top of the trouser with a zigzag stitch. The waistband must contain ¾-inch Ban-Rol to prevent roll over at the trouser front and have three strand snugtex to keep shirts tucked in. The waistband closure shall be accomplished with a single crush proof hook and eye centered on the waistband for wearer comfort. The hook and eye shall be reinforced with 7/8-inch non-woven stay tape that is anchored with topstitching through and through to the top of the waistband (bartacks in place of topstitching shall be cause for rejection). In addition to the stitching of the waistband when it is set onto the trouser, the waistband must also be topstitched below the waistband seam through the waistband curtain for added strength. The back center seam of the trouser to be finished to allow for alterations (with ample basic fabric and waistband curtain material to allow trouser size to be increased at least one size). The outlet in the seat is to be in proportion to waist outlet so seat may also be let out. Seat seam must be sewn with a tandem needle machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum strength. STRETCH- The waistband curtain shall incorporate a telescopic extension that expands and contract ABLE with 2-inch stretch at each side of the trouser waist. The front side of the underlying shall WAISTBAND have a 3-1/4 long by 1-1/2 wide band of elastic inserted in between the curtain and trouser waistband. This elastic shall be sewn to the outside of the waistband curtain at the front overlying extension split. The other side shall be securely stitched 3 back from the edge of the underlying side of the back extension split. This stitching shall be securely sewn through the waistband curtain so it is not visible on the outside of the waistband. There shall also be a 4 long by 1-1/2 wide two ply fabric band sewn into the overlying edge of the extension split. The other end of the fabric band shall be securely sewn to a 4 long by 1-1/4 wide elastic band. This elastic shall be sewn to the underlying side of the waistband curtain so that it is not visible on the outside of the waistband. Both sides of the elastic sandwiched in between the waistband curtain and waistband must move freely to allow for expansion. BELT LOOPS: There shall be a minimum of seven belt loops 3/4" in width of double thickness. Each loop must have a non-woven interlining for added durability. All loops (except back center) must be sewn into the top and bottom of the waistband ("dropped" belt loops that are tacked to the outside of the trouser all around waist shall be cause for rejection). The top of the belt loops (except back center) shall be sewn into the waistband curtain seam with a Rocap machine using a zigzag stitch. The bottom of the center back loop shall be tacked to the trouser and the top of the loop tacked to the outside of the waistband to allow for easier waist alteration. FLY: Trouser shall have a brass metal zipper with memory lock brass slider secured by metal stopper at base. There shall be a French Fly tab closure on the inside of the right fly. The tab shall be double ply made of the basic trouser fabric (tabs made of pocketing material or a "grown on" French Fly will be cause for rejection). The right fly shall be lined with the same material and color as the pocketing. The fly lining shall be sewn to the left fly continuing below the zipper into the crotch area in a neat and durable manner. A button shall be located on the left fly corresponding with the French Fly tab to provide a clean and comfortable closure. Topstitching of fly to be installed with automatic J stitch equipment eliminating puckering and providing a clean finish. There shall be a firm straight bartack at the bottom of the fly going through the zipper tape for maximum strength. Bartack shall line up with starting point of J stitch. Crotch shall have front and back two ply lining of pocketing material. 5

6 SEAT: POCKETS: Seat must be sewn with a Tandem Needle Machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum durability. The two (2) front pockets will be quarter top style with a minimum opening of 6" and a minimum depth of 5-3/4" measured from the bottom of the opening. Bottom to have Wear Tuff coating extending 3 up from pocket bottom. Front pockets a triangular bartack at the bottom of the pocket openings. Pockets shall be constructed using the stitch, turn, and topstitch method. Front pocket facing and barrier to be made of the basic trouser fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 1-1/4 and barrier shall measure a minimum of 2-1/2" (measured to the inside edge of pocket lining). The two (2) hip pockets shall have a minimum 6" wide (bartack to bartack) opening and a minimum depth of 6" measured from the bottom of the pocket opening. Hip pockets shall be constructed using the double welt method on an automatic welt machine. The welts shall be topstitched and both ends of opening shall have a triangular bartack. Hip pocketfacing and barrier are to be made of basic trouser fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 3/4 and the barrier shall be a minimum of 1". The left hip pocket shall have a centered tabmade of basic cloth inserted into the top welt with bartacks at the top and bottom of the tab to form an opening for a button. A button shall be located below the bottom welt corresponding in location with the tab, which shall be interlined with non-woven for added durability. There shall be a dart centered above each hip pocket to waistband. Dart shall beapproximately 2-3/4 long centered above each hip pocket. Dart shall be installed with automatic equipment for a clean non-puckered finish. SET IN: There shall be set in cargo pockets on each trouser leg positioned approximately 2-1/2 CARGO from the bottom of the ¼ top pocket and centered over side seam. Opening shall be 6-1/2 POCKETS with welt opening that must be topstitched. Pocket depth to be 7-3/4. Right pocket shall have a cell phone compartment that is approximately 3-1/2 deep by 3 wide. It shall bepositioned approximately 3-1/2 down from pocket opening on back side of pocket bag at front. Pockets shall have zipper closure with YKK No. 25 nylon zipper. INSEAM Trousers shall have inseam length that is a minimum of 36. CREASES: STITCHING PRESSING LABELS: SIZES: The leg creases, front and back will have a silicone bead put in by using the LintraK process. Trouser must be stitched with matching thread. Trouser must be neatly pressed on Hothead Presses and properly shaped. Outseams and inseams are edge serged FINISHING on automatic equipment for uniformity of quality and shall be pressed open for a smooth pucker-free finish with repeated cleaning and pressing. Trouser must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads. Trouser must have a permanent label providing care instructions and small woven label indicating waist size. A removable paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL or RN number must be on the outside of the waistband. Ticket to bematchbook style installed with plastic staples for easy removal without damaging trouser material and showing size when trousers are stacked. Men s trousers to be available from size 28 to 38 and size 40 to 66 in even sizes 4. TROUSERS, FEMALE, WINTER WEIGHT 6

7 MODEL: LINING: MATERIAL Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMTRSW01 or Acceptable Equal Content: 55% Polyester, 45% Wool; Weight: 16-1/2-17 oz. per linear yard; Weave: Elastique; Color: Chocolate Brown; Fabric Reference: Raeford with Restora Slack shall be manufactured from an up-to-date women s uniform Slack pattern. The trouser styling shall include a stretchable waistband: plain front, two (2) quarter top front pockets, and two (2) hip pockets, and two (2) cut in cargo pockets. Work wear industrial style construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. The pocketing and fly lining material shall be 70% Polyester/ 30% Cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60" width) with a minimum 78 x 48 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black. WAISTBAND: The waistband shall be constructed using the "closed method" and shall measure a minimum of 1-7/8" wide when finished. The waistband curtain shall finish a minimum 2-1/4 wide and is to be made of the same fabric and color as the pocketing material and must beattached to the top of the Slack with a zigzag stitch. The waistband must contain ¾-inch Ban-Rol to prevent roll over at the Slack front and have three strand snugtex to keep shirts tucked in. The waistband closure shall be accomplished with a single crush proof hook and eye centered on the waistband for wearer comfort. The hook and eye shall be reinforced with 7/8-inch non-woven stay tape that is anchored with topstitching through and through to the top of the waistband (bartacks in place of topstitching shall be cause for rejection). In addition to the stitching of the waistband when it is set onto the Slack, the waistband must also be topstitched below the waistband seam through the waistband curtain for added strength. The back center seam of the Slack to be finished to allow for alterations (with ample basic fabric and waistband curtain material to allow Slack size to beincreased at least one size). The outlet in the seat is to be in proportion to waist outlet soseat may also be let out. Seat seam must be sewn with a tandem needle machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum strength. STRETCH- The waistband curtain shall incorporate a telescopic extension that expands and contracts ABLE with 2-inch stretch at each side of the Slack waist. The front side of the underlying shall WAISTBAND have a 3-1/4 long by 1-1/2 wide band of elastic inserted in between the curtain and Slack waistband. This elastic shall be sewn to the outside of the waistband curtain at the front overlying extension split. The other side shall be securely stitched 3 back from the edge of the underlying side of the back extension split. This stitching shall be securely sewn through the waistband curtain so it is not visible on the outside of the waistband. There shall also be a 4 long by 1-1/2 wide two ply fabric band sewn into the overlying edge of the extension split. The other end of the fabric band shall be securely sewn to a 4 long by 1-1/2 wide elastic band. This elastic shall be sewn to the underling side of the waistband curtain so that it is not visible on the outside of the waistband. Both sides of the elastic sandwiched in between the waistband curtain and waistband must move freely to allow for expansion. BELT LOOPS: There shall be a minimum of seven belt loops 3/4" in width of double thickness. Each loop must have a non-woven interlining for added durability. All loops (except back center) must be sewn into the top and bottom of the waistband ("dropped" belt loops that are tacked to the outside of the Slack all around waist shall be cause for rejection). The top of the belt loops (except back center) shall be sewn into the waistband curtain seam with a Rocap machine using a zigzag stitch. The bottom of the center back loop shall be tacked to the Slack and the top of the loop tacked to the outside of the waistband to allow for easier waistalteration. 7

8 FLY: SEAT: POCKETS: Slack shall have a brass metal zipper with memory lock brass slider secured by metal stopper at base. There shall be a French Fly tab closure on the inside of the right fly. The tab shall be double ply made of the basic Slack fabric (tabs made of pocketing material or a "grown on" French Fly will be cause for rejection). The right fly shall be lined with the same material and color as the pocketing. The fly lining shall be sewn to the left fly continuing below the zipper into the crotch area in a neat and durable manner. A button shall be located on the left fly corresponding with the French Fly tab to provide a clean and comfortable closure. Topstitching of fly to be installed with automatic J stitch equipment eliminating puckering and providing a clean finish. There shall be a firm straight bartack at the bottom of the fly going through the zipper tape for maximum strength. Bartack shall line up with starting point of J stitch. Crotch shall have front and back two ply lining of pocketing material. Seat must be sewn with a Tandem Needle Machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum durability. The two (2) front pockets will be quarter top style with a minimum opening of 6" and a minimum depth of 5-3/4" measured from the bottom of the opening. Bottom to have Wear Tuff coating extending 3 up from pocket bottom. Front pockets to have a triangular bartack at the bottom of the pocket openings. Pockets shall be constructed using thestitch, turn, and topstitch method. Front pocket facing and barrier to be made of the basic Slack fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 1-1/4 and barrier shall measure a minimum of 2-1/2" (measured to the inside edge of pocket lining). SET IN There shall be set in cargo pockets on each Slack leg position approximately 2-1/2 from CARGO the bottom of the ¼ top pocket and centered over side seam. Opening shall be 6-1/2 POCKETS: with welt opening that must be topstitched. Pocket depth to be 7-3/4. Right pocket shall have a cell phone compartment that is approximately 3-1/2 deep by 3 wide. It shall be positioned approximately 3-1/2 down from pocket opening on back side of pocket bag at front. Pockets shall have zipper closure with YKK No. 25 nylon zipper. INSEAM: Slacks shall have inseam length that is a minimum of 36. CREASES: The leg creases, front and back will have a silicone bead put in by using the Lintrak process. STITCHING, Slack must be stitched with matching thread. Slack must be neatly pressed on Hothead PRESSING Presses and properly shaped. Outseams and inseams are edge serged on automatic & FINISHING: equipment for uniformity of quality and shall be pressed open for a smooth pucker-free finish with repeated cleaning and pressing. Slack must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads. LABELS: SIZES: Slack must have a permanent label providing care instructions and small woven label indicating waist size. A removable paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL or RN number must be on the outside of the waistband. Ticket to be matchbook style installed with plastic staples for easy removal without damaging Slack material and showing size when Slacks are stacked. Female sizes to be available from size 2 through 42 as outlined in the Fashion Fit Sizing Chart: 8

9 Size Waist Hip ITSF /CD 5. TROUSERS, MALE, SUMMER WEIGHT MODEL: LINING: Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMTRS02 or Acceptable Equal 78% Polyester / 28% Rayon / 2% Lycra; Weight: 12 oz. per linear yard; Weave: Serge; Color: Chocolate Brown; Fabric Reference: Burlington 8128-F093. Trouser shall be manufactured from an up-to-date men s uniform trouser pattern. The trouser styling shall include a stretchable waistband: plain front, two (2) quarter top front pockets, and two (2) hip pockets, and two (2) cut in cargo pockets. Work wear industrial style construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. The pocketing and fly lining material shall be 70% Polyester / 30% Cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60" width) with a minimum 78 x 48 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black. WAISTBAND: The waistband shall be constructed using the "closed method" and shall measure a minimum of 1-7/8" wide when finished. The waistband curtain shall finish a minimum 2-1/4 wide and is to be made of the same fabric and color as the pocketing material and must be attached to the top of the trouser with a zigzag stitch. The waistband must contain ¾-inch Ban-Rol to prevent roll over at the trouser front and have three strand snugtex to keep shirts tucked in. The waistband closure shall be accomplished with a single crush proof hook and eye centered on the waistband for wearer comfort. The hook and eye shall be reinforced with 7/8-inch non-woven stay tape that is anchored with topstitching through and through to the top of the waistband (bartacks in place of topstitching shall be cause for rejection). In addition to the stitching of the waistband when it is set onto the trouser, the waistband must also be topstitched below the waistband seam through the waistband curtain for added strength. The 9

10 back center seam of the trouser to be finished to allow for alterations (with ample basic fabric and waistband curtain material to allow trouser size to be increased at least one size). The outlet in the seat is to be in proportion to waist outlet so seat may also be let out. Seat seam must be sewn with a tandem needle machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum strength. STRETCH- The waistband curtain shall incorporate a telescopic extension that expands and contracts ABLE with 2-inch stretch at each side of the trouser waist. The front side of the underlying shall WAISTBAND have a 3-1/4 long by 1-1/2 wide band of elastic inserted in between the curtain and trouser waistband. This elastic shall be sewn to the outside of the waistband curtain at the front overlying extension split. The other side shall be securely stitched 3 back from the edge of the underlying side of the back extension split. This stitching shall be securely sewn through the waistband curtain so it is not visible on the outside of the waistband. There shall also be a 4 long by 1-1/2 wide two ply fabric band sewn into the overlying edge of the extension split. The other end of the fabric band shall be securely sewn to a 4 long by 1-1/4 wide elastic band. This elastic shall be sewn to the underlying side of the waistband curtain so that it is not visible on the outside of the waistband. Both sides of the elastic sandwiched in between the waistband curtain and waistband must move freely to allow for expansion. BELT LOOPS: There shall be a minimum of seven belt loops 3/4" in width of double thickness. Each loop must have a non-woven interlining for added durability. All loops (except back center) must be sewn into the top and bottom of the waistband ("dropped" belt loops that are tacked to the outside of the trouser all around waist shall be cause for rejection). The top of the belt loops (except back center) shall be sewn into the waistband curtain seam with a Rocap machine using a zigzag stitch. The bottom of the center back loop shall be tacked to the trouser and the top of the loop tacked to the outside of the waistband to allow for easier waist alteration. FLY: SEAT: POCKETS: Trouser shall have a brass metal zipper with memory lock brass slider secured by metal stopper at base. There shall be a French Fly tab closure on the inside of the right fly. The tab shall be double ply made of the basic trouser fabric (tabs made of pocketing material or a "grown on" French Fly will be cause for rejection). The right fly shall be lined with the same material and color as the pocketing. The fly lining shall be sewn to the left fly continuing below the zipper into the crotch area in a neat and durable manner. A button shall be located on the left fly corresponding with the French Fly tab to provide a clean and comfortable closure. Topstitching of fly to be installed with automatic J stitch equipment eliminating puckering and providing a clean finish. There shall be a firm straight bartack at the bottom of the fly going through the zipper tape for maximum strength. Bartack shall line up with starting point of J stitch. Crotch shall have front and back two ply lining of pocketing material. Seat must be sewn with a Tandem Needle Machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum durability. The two (2) front pockets will be quarter top style with a minimum opening of 6" and a minimum depth of 5-3/4" measured from the bottom of the opening. Bottom to have Wear Tuff coating extending 3 up from pocket bottom. Front pockets a triangular bartack at the bottom of the pocket openings. Pockets shall be constructed using the stitch, turn, and topstitch method. Front pocket facing and barrier to be made of the basic trouser fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 1-1/4 and barrier shall measure a minimum of 2-1/2" (measured to the inside edge of pocket lining). 10

11 The two (2) hip pockets shall have a minimum 6" wide (bartack to bartack) opening and a minimum depth of 6" measured from the bottom of the pocket opening. Hip pockets shall be constructed using the double welt method on an automatic welt machine. The welts shall be topstitched and both ends of opening shall have a triangular bartack. Hip pocket facing and barrier are to be made of basic trouser fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 3/4 and the barrier shall be a minimum of 1". The left hip pocket shall have a centered tab made of basic cloth inserted into the top welt with bartacks at the top and bottom of the tab to form an opening for a button. A button shall be located below the bottom welt corresponding in location with the tab, which shall be interlined with non-woven for added durability. There shall be a dart centered above each hip pocket to waistband. Dart shall be approximately 2-3/4 long centered above each hip pocket. Dart shall be installed with automatic equipment for a clean non-puckered finish. SET IN There shall be set in cargo pockets on each trouser leg positioned approximately 2-1/2 CARGO from the bottom of the ¼ top pocket and centered over side seam. Opening shall be 6-1/2 POCKETS with welt opening that must be topstitched. Pocket depth to be 7-3/4. Right pocket shall have a cell phone compartment that is approximately 3-1/2 deep by 3 wide. It shall be positioned approximately 3-1/2 down from pocket opening on back side of pocket bag at front. Pockets shall have zipper closure with YKK No. 25 nylon zipper. INSEAM Trousers shall have inseam length that is a minimum of 36. CREASES: STITCHING, PRESSING FINISHING LABELS: SIZES: The leg creases, front and back will have a silicone bead put in by using the Lintrak process Trouser must be stitched with matching thread. Trouser must be neatly pressed on Hothead Presses and properly shaped. Outseams and inseams are edge serged on automatic equipment for uniformity of quality and shall be pressed open for a smooth pucker-free finish with repeated cleaning and pressing. Trouser must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads. Trouser must have a permanent label providing care instructions and small woven label indicating waist size. A removable paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL or RN number must be on the outside of the waistband. Ticket to be matchbook style installed with plastic staples for easy removal without damaging trouser material and showing size when trousers are stacked. Men s trousers to be available from size 28 to 38, every size and size 40 to 66 in even sizes. 6. TROUSERS, FEMALE, SUMMER WEIGHT MODEL: Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMTRSW02 or Acceptable Equal 78% Polyester/ 28% Rayon / 2% Lycra; Weight: 12 oz. per linear yard; Weave: Serge; Color: Chocolate Brown; Fabric Reference: Burlington 8128-F093. Slack shall be manufactured from an up-to-date women s uniform Slack pattern. The trouser styling shall include a stretchable waistband: plain front, two (2) quarter top front pockets, and two (2) hip pockets, and two (2) cut in cargo pockets. Work wear industrial style construction is unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. 11

12 LINING: MATERIAL: The pocketing and fly lining material shall be 70% Polyester/ 30% Cotton, 2.9 oz. per square yard (60" width) with a minimum 78 x 48 count. Pocketing must have a durable press finish and the color of the pocketing must be black. WAISTBAND: The waistband shall be constructed using the "closed method" and shall measure a minimum of 1-7/8" wide when finished. The waistband curtain shall finish a minimum 2-1/4 wide and is to be made of the same fabric and color as the pocketing material and must be attached to the top of the Slack with a zigzag stitch. The waistband must contain ¾-inch Ban-Rol to prevent roll over at the Slack front and have three strand snugtex to keep shirtstucked in. The waistband closure shall be accomplished with a single crush proof hook and eye centered on the waistband for wearer comfort. The hook and eye shall be reinforced with 7/8-inch non-woven stay tape that is anchored with topstitching through and through to the top of the waistband (bartacks in place of topstitching shall be cause for rejection). In addition to the stitching of the waistband when it is set onto the Slack, the waistband must also be topstitched below the waistband seam through the waistband curtain for added strength. The back center seam of the Slack to be finished to allow for alterations (with ample basic fabric and waistband curtain material to allow Slack size to be increased at least one size). The oulet in the seat is to be in proportion to waist outlet so seat may also be let out. Seat seam must be sewn with a tandem needle machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum strength. STRETCH- The waistband curtain shall incorporate a telescopic extension that expands and contracts- ABLE with 2-inch stretch at each side of the Slack waist. The front side of the underlying WAISTBAND waistband shall have a 3-1/4 long by 1-1/2 wide band of elastic inserted between the curtain and Slack waistband. This elastic shall be sewn to the outside of the waistband curtain at the front overlying extension split. The other side shall be securely stitched 3 back from the edge of the underlying side of the back extension split. This stitching shall be securely sewn through the waistband curtain so it is not visible on the outside of the waistband. There shall also be a 4 long by 1-1/2 wide two ply fabric band sewn into the overlying edge of the extension split. The other end of the fabric band shall be securely sewn to a 4 long by 1-1/2 wide elastic band. This elastic shall be sewn to the underling side of the waistband curtain so that it is not visible on the outside of the waistband. Both sides of the elastic sandwiched in between the waistband curtain and waistband must move freely to allow for expansion. BELT LOOPS: There shall be a minimum of seven belt loops 3/4" in width of double thickness. Each loop must have a non-woven interlining for added durability. All loops (except back center) must be sewn into the top and bottom of the waistband ("dropped" belt loops that are tacked to the outside of the Slack all around waist shall be cause for rejection). The top of the belt loops (except back center) shall be sewn into the waistband curtain seam with a Rocap machine using a zigzag stitch. The bottom of the center back loop shall be tacked to the Slack and the top of the loop tacked to the outside of the waistband to allow for easier waist alteration. FLY: Slack shall have a brass metal zipper with memory lock brass slider secured by metal stopper at base. There shall be a French Fly tab closure on the inside of the right fly. The tab shall be double ply made of the basic Slack fabric (tabs made of pocketing material or a "grown on" French Fly will be cause for rejection). The right fly shall be lined with the same material and color as the pocketing. The fly lining shall be sewn to the left fly continuing below the zipper into the crotch area in a neat and durable manner. A button shall be located on the left fly corresponding with the French Fly tab to provide a clean and comfortable closure. Topstitching of fly to be installed with automatic J stitch equipment eliminating puckering 12

13 and providing a clean finish. There shall be a firm straight bartack at the bottom of the fly going through the zipper tape for maximum strength. Bartack shall line up with starting point of J stitch. Crotch shall have front and back two ply lining of pocketing material. SEAT: POCKETS: SET IN CARGO POCKETS: Seat must be sewn with a Tandem Needle Machine (double-needle stitch) for maximum durability. The two (2) front pockets will be quarter top style with a minimum opening of 6" and a minimum depth of 5-3/4" measured from the bottom of the opening. Bottom to have Wear Tuff coating extending 3 up from pocket bottom. Front pockets to have a triangular bartack at the bottom of the pocket openings. Pockets shall be constructed using the stitch, turn, and topstitch method. Front pocket facing and barrier to be made of the basic Slack fabric. Facing shall be a minimum of 1-1/4 and barrier shall measure a minimum of 2-1/2" (measured to the inside edge of pocket lining). There shall be set in cargo pockets on each Slack leg positioned approximately 2-1/2 from the bottom of the ¼ top pocket and centered over side seam. Opening shall be 6-1/2 with welt opening that must be topstitched. Pocket depth to be 7-3/4. Right pocket shall have a cell phone compartment that is approximately 3-1/2 deep by 3 wide. It shall be positioned approximately 3-1/2 down from pocket opening on back side of pocket bag at front. Pockets shall have zipper closure with YKK No. 25 nylon zipper. INSEAM Slacks shall have inseam length that is a minimum of 36. CREASES: STITCHING LABELS: SIZES: The leg creases, front and back will have a silicone bead put in by using the Lintrak process. Slack must be stitched with matching thread. Slack must be neatly pressed on Hothead PRESSING Presses and properly shaped. Outseams and inseams are edge serged on automatic FINISHING: equipment for uniformity of quality and shall be pressed open for a smooth pucker-free finish with repeated cleaning and pressing. Slack must be cleaned and finished to eliminate loose threads. Slack must have a permanent label providing care instructions and small woven label indicating waist size. A removable paper ticket showing the size, fabric content, cut number, and WPL or RN number must be on the outside of the waistband. Ticket to be matchbook style installed with plastic staples for easy removal without damaging Slack material and showing size when Slacks are stacked. Female sizes to be available from size 2 through 42 as outlined in the Fashion Fit Sizing Chart: Size Waist Hip

14 ITSF /CD 7. SHIRT, MALE, LONG SLEEVES, POLY/COTTON MODEL: Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMMLS01 or Acceptable Equal Content: 65% Dacron Polyester / 35% Duro Poplin; Weight: 4.25 oz. per sq. yard. COLOR: Tan, Swift Galey, style 1185 color COLLAR & STAND: STRETCH- ABLE COLLAR: FRONT: SHOULDER STRAPS: Male Long Sleeve. Dress style, Fly placket front, full cut tapered fit, stretchable collar, long sleeves with barrel cuffs, and straight bottom with side vents. Two plain breast pockets with topstitched center pointed flaps. Topstitched shoulder straps. Back to have a double yoke of shirting material. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable. Collar points to measure 3-1/8" long with fused-in Mylar stays. Collar to have woven interlining of #250 Dacron. Stays to be 3 long, 3/8 minimum width, and to be fused to under side of collar interlining. Stays applied directly to collar material itself unacceptable. Collar height at rear 1-1/2". Collar topstitched 1/8 off the edge. Collar stand to measure 1-5/16" at rear and band to be interlined with "Crease N Tack." Collar material itself (top or underside) shall have no fusing to Mylar stays or collar interlining. Material consisting of self-goods and lining material conforming the neckband which enables the collar to stretch in the direction parallel to the circumferential direction of the collar. This expandable collar will allow for slight variations in neck size and make it easier to button because of the stretch or yield of the material. The left front shall have a top center placket 1-1/2" wide with two rows of stitches 7/8" apart. The shirt will have 7 buttons and buttonholes on the front; spacing between each will be 3-¾" except the spacing between the neck button and the first button on the front, which will be approximately 3-1/4". Top center placket to have woven interlining of #250 Dacron. Nonwoven interlining unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. The fronts shall be joined to the yoke so that both raw edges of the yoke are turned under, with the front sandwiched between, and then all three are stitched down with a 1/16" raised stitch. Safety stitch joining unacceptable. Shoulder straps to be two-piece pointed, 1/8" topstitched and to be set on yoke with leading topstitch conforming with front joining seam. To measure 2" at sleeve tapering to 1-3/8" and 14

15 set not more than 1/2" from collar set seam. Shoulder Straps to be interlined with #250 Dacron and to have functional buttonhole to attach to sewn button on shoulder of shirt. Edge stitched shoulder strap construction unacceptable. POCKETS: FLAPS: SLEEVES: CUFFS: BUTTONS: SEWING: THREAD: Two breast patch pockets with mitered corners. Pocket to measure 5-5/8" wide, 6" deep. Left breast pocket to have 1-1/2" pencil stitch. Each pocket to have hook Velcro, 3/4" long by ½" wide, positioned on both edges of pocket to correspond with outer scalloped flap points as specified. Velcro to be stitched all sides and to be sewn through pocket and shirt for added reinforcement. Two piece center point design to measure 5-7/8" across and 2-1/2" in depth at center point, 1-5/8" at sides. Secured to shirtfront approximately 3/8 above pocket. Left flap to have pencil opening 1-1/2 to correspond precisely with pencil slot of pocket. Flaps to be 1/8" topstitched. Flaps to have woven interlining of #250 Dacron. Creased and edge stitched pocket flap construction unacceptable. Under side of the flap to have looped Velcro 3/4" long by 1/2" wide stitched all sides, positioned on outer points of both pocket flaps to secure with corresponding Velcro strips on shirt pocket. Each flap shall have a button centered on uncut sewn buttonhole. Sleeve vent shall be a minimum of 4-1/2" long with one-piece top and bottom facings. Facing to measure 1-1/8" wide point blocked at top. Two piece ½-inch hemmed cuff with 1/8 topstitching. Cuffs to measure 2-1/2" in depth with rounded corners (barrel cuffs). Cuffs to have two buttons and corresponding buttonholes set vertically with one button and buttonhole in center of facing. Cuffs to have woven interlining of #250 Dacron. First grade 19-ligne pearlescent. Collar, shoulder straps, pocket flaps and cuffs to be topstitched 1/8" off the edge. Sleeve inserting and side close felling seams are to be safety stitched. All sewing threads to be color fast polyester wrap to match. INTER Collar, Cuffs, pocket flaps, shoulder straps and top center to be interlined with #250 LININGS: Dacron. Collar band interlining to be Crease N Tack. MILITARY: CREASES There shall be five LINTRAK silicone sharp military creases on all shirts. One crease on each front to be centered vertically. Front creases shall be through pockets and flaps. Spacing for three military creases across shirt back proportionate to the size of the shirt. CONSTRUCTION: Collar, flaps, shoulder straps, and cuffs are made with conventional construction. Top ply, bottom ply and interlining are first stitched together, then turned right side out and finally topstitched. EMBLEMS: STOCK: SIZES A MUNI identification number will be affixed on the right sleeve 3" down from the shoulder seam. NOTE: numbers vary per operator. Shirts must be available in the following sizes: Sleeve lengths: inches Neck sizes: 14-1/2 to 18-1/2, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24 15

16 8. SHIRT, FEMALE, LONG SLEEVES, POLY/COTTON MODEL: Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMFLS03 or Acceptable Equal Content: 65% Dacron Polyester / 35% Duro Poplin; Weight: 4.25 oz. per sq. yard. COLOR: Tan, Swift Galey, style 1185 color COLLAR & STAND Female Long Sleeve. Dress style, Fly placket front, full cut tapered fit, stretchable collar, long sleeves with barrel cuffs, and straight bottom with side vents. Two plain breast pockets with topstitched center pointed flaps. Topstitched shoulder straps. Back to have a double yoke of shirting material. Work wear industrial style shirt construction is unacceptable. Collar points to measure 2-7/8" long with ultrasonically fused-in Mylar stays. Collar to have woven interlining of #250 Dacron. Stays to be 2-1/2 long, 3/8 minimum width, and to be fused to under side of collar interlining. Stays applied directly to collar material itself unacceptable. Collar height at rear 1-1/2". Collar topstitched 1/8 off the edge. Collar stand to measure 1-5/16" at rear and band to be interlined with "Crease N Tack." Collar material itself (top or underside) shall have no fusing to Mylar stays or collar interlining. STRETCH- ABLE COLLAR: Material consisting of self-goods and lining material conforming the neckband which enables the collar to stretch in the direction parallel to the circumferential direction of the collar. This expandable collar will allow for slight variations in neck size and make it easier to button because of the stretch or yield of the material. FRONT: The right front shall have a top center placket 1-1/2" wide with two rows of stitches 7/8" apart. The shirt will have 6 buttons and buttonholes on the front; spacing between each will be 3-1/2" except the spacing between the neck button and the first button on the front, which will be approximately 3-1/4". Top center placket to have woven interlining of #250 Dacron. Non-woven interlining unacceptable and shall be cause for rejection. The fronts shall be joined to the yoke so that both raw edges of the yoke are turned under, with the front sandwiched between, and then all three are stitched down with a 1/16" raised stitch. Safety stitch joining unacceptable. SHOULDER Shoulder straps to be two-piece pointed, 1/8" topstitched and to be set on yoke with leading STRAPS: topstitch conforming with front joining seam. To measure 2" at sleeve tapering to 1-3/8" and set not more than 1/2" from collar set seam. Shoulder Straps to be interlined with #250 Dacron and to have functional buttonhole to attach to sewn button on shoulder of shirt. Edge stitched shoulder strap construction unacceptable. POCKETS: Two breast patch pockets with mitered corners. Pocket to measure 5" wide, 5" deep. Left breast pocket to have 1-1/4" pencil stitch. Each pocket to have hook Velcro, 3/4" long by ½" wide, positioned on both edges of pocket to correspond with outer scalloped flap points as specified. Velcro to be stitched all sides and to be sewn through pocket and shirt for added reinforcement. FLAPS: Two piece center point design to measure 5-1/4" across and 2" in depth at center point, 1-1/4" at sides. Secured to shirtfront approximately 3/8 above pocket. Left flap to have pencil opening 1-1/2 to correspond precisely with pencil slot of pocket. Flaps to be 1/8" topstitched. Flaps to have woven interlining of #550 Stabilized Mello-Press. Creased and edge stitched pocket flap construction unacceptable. Under side of the flap to have looped 16

17 Velcro 3/4" long by 1/2" wide stitched all sides, positioned on outer points of both pocket flaps to secure with corresponding Velcro strips on shirt pocket. Each flap shall have a button centered on uncut sewn buttonhole. SLEEVES: CUFFS: BUTTONS: SEWING: THREAD: Sleeve vent shall be a minimum of 3-1/2" long with one-piece top and bottom facings. Facing to measure 1-1/8" wide point blocked at top. Two piece ½-inch hemmed cuff with 1/8 topstitching. Cuffs to measure 2-1/2" in depth with rounded corners (barrel cuffs). Cuffs to have two buttons and corresponding buttonholes set vertically with one button and buttonhole in enter of facing. Cuffs to have woven interlining of #250 Dacron. First grade 19-ligne pearlescent. Collar, shoulder straps, pocket flaps and cuffs to be topstitched 1/8" off the edge. Sleeve inserting and side close felling seams are to be safety stitched. All sewing threads to be color fast polyester wrap to match. INTER Collar, Cuffs, pocket flaps, shoulder straps and top center to be interlined with #250 LININGS: Dacron. Collar band interlining to be Crease N Tack. MILITARY CREASES: There shall be five LINTRAK silicone sharp military creases on all shirts. One crease on each front to be centered vertically. Front creases shall be through pockets and flaps. Spacing for three military creases across shirt back proportionate to the size of the shirt. CONSTRUCTION: Collar, flaps, shoulder straps, and cuffs are made with conventional construction. Top ply, bottom ply and interlining are first stitched together, then turned right side out and finally topstitched. EMBLEMS: A MUNI identification number will be affixed on the right sleeve 3" down from the shoulder seam. NOTE: numbers vary per operator. STOCK Shirts must be available in the following sizes: Bust Sizes SIZES: Long Sleeve Lengths Regular Lengths 28, 30 Regular = 30 32, 34 Regular = 30 Long = 31 36, 38 Regular = 31 Long = 32 40, 42 Regular = 32 Long = 33 44, 46 Regular = 33 Long = & up Regular = 34 Long = SHIRT, FEMALE, LONG SLEEVES, POLY/COTTON, STRAIGHT BOTTOM MODEL: Flying Cross by Fechheimer #SFMFLSSB04 or Acceptable Equal Content: 65% Dacron Polyester / 35% Duro Poplin; Weight: 4.25 oz. per sq. yard 17