THE ROBERT GRAHAM FIT GUIDE
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- Lester Jacobs
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1 THE ROBERT GRAHAM FIT GUIDE
2 Measuring guide for CLASSIC, BIG & TALL FIT WOVEN SHIRTS. NECK Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple), keeping the tape a bit loose.. CHEST Classic Fit SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH XS S M L XL WAIST 4. SLEEVE LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. From the base of the back of your neck, measure down your back to the point whereyou d want the shirt to be. You may want to go slightly longer if you plan to always tuck the shirt in, or slightly shorter, if you plan to wear the shirt untucked. XL XL XL Big Fit XL XL XL XL XL XL Tall Fit XL XLT XLT XLT XLT XLT
3 P S P T P U P R P S P T P U Measuring guide for TAILORED FIT WOVEN SHIRTS 5 4. NECK Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple), keeping the tape a bit loose.. CHEST. WAIST 4. SLEEVE LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. From the base of the back of your neck, measure down your back to the point where you d want the shirt to be. You may want to go slightly longer if you plan to always tuck the shirt in, or slightly shorter, if you plan to wear the shirt untucked. SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH XS S M L XL XL XL XL WHAT IS A TAILORED FIT SHIRT? A Tailored Fit shirt is slightly tighter around the chest and sides. There is almost no excess fabric around the back and sides. Opt for a tailored fit if you want a closer-to-the skin feel in a shirt. TWO FINGERS RULE FOUR FINGERS RULE The traditional English Tailors use the two fingers rule for all measuring points [chest, waist, seat] for a more fitted look. Place the tape measure comfortably over two fingers around the point of reference, and note your size. The four fingers rule is well suited if you desire a more relaxed and looser fit.
4 P S P T P U P R P S P T P U Measuring guide for MODERN AMERICANA TAILORED FIT SPORT SHIRT 5 4. NECK Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple), keeping the tape a bit loose.. CHEST. WAIST 4. SLEEVE LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. From the base of the back of your neck, measure down your back to the point where you d want the shirt to be. You may want to go slightly longer if you plan to always tuck the shirt in, or slightly shorter, if you plan to wear the shirt untucked. MODERN AMERICANA Tailored Fit SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH XS S M L XL XL XL XL WHAT IS A TAILORED FIT SHIRT? A Tailored Fit shirt is slightly tighter around the chest and sides. There is almost no excess fabric around the back and sides. Opt for a tailored fit if you want a closer-to-the skin feel in a shirt. TWO FINGERS RULE FOUR FINGERS RULE The traditional English Tailors use the two fingers rule for all measuring points [chest, waist, seat] for a more fitted look. Place the tape measure comfortably over two fingers around the point of reference, and note your size. The four fingers rule is well suited if you desire a more relaxed and looser fit. 4
5 P S P T P U P R P S P T P U Measuring guide for DRESS SHIRTS. NECK Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple), keeping the tape a. CHEST. WAIST Classic Fit SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH 5. ACROSS BACK S M M/L L L/XL XL TWO FINGERS RULE 5 4 FOUR FINGERS RULE 4. SLEEVE LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. From the base of the back of your neck, measure down your back to the point where you d want the shirt to be. You may want to go slightly longer if you plan to always tuck the shirt in, or slightly shorter, if you plan to wear the shirt untucked. XL/XL XL Tailored Fit SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH 5. ACROSS BACK S M M/L L L/XL XL XL/XL The traditional English Tailors use the two fingers rule for all measuring points [chest, waist, seat] for a more fitted look. Place the tape measure comfortably over two fingers around the point of reference, and note your size. The four fingers rule is well suited if you desire a more relaxed and looser fit. XL
6 ALTERING YOUR SHIRT ADDING BACK DARTS Have your tailor take approx 0 long and.75 [up to ] deep pleats at the back. (Altered you will have taken a total of ) TAKING OUT FROM SIDES All Robert Graham shirts are finished with the special flat felled side seams that are unique to the brand. Still, your tailor can taper your shirt by opening the sides, taking in the excess fabric and finishing with one of these techniques: French seam finish or surger/cover stitch finish. FRENCH SEAM FINISH SURGER/COVER STITCH FINISH 6
7 P S P T P U P R P S P T P U Measuring guide for POLOS & TEES. NECK 4 5 TWO FINGERS RULE FOUR FINGERS RULE Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple), keeping the tape a bit loose. CHEST. WAIST 4. SLEEVE LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. From the base of the back of your neck, measure down your back to the point where you d want the shirt to be. You may want to go slightly longer if you plan to always tuck the shirt in, or slightly shorter, if you plan to wear the shirt untucked. SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH XS S M L XL XL XL XL LAUNDERING YOUR POLOS & TEES To preserve color quality, hand wash your polos and tees with like-colored items in cold water. We recommend you air dry to protect the material against shrinkage, reduce fading and pilling, and extend the life of the garment. Consider drying them flat, reshape them, and do not hang. Refer to specific content care label on garment for optimum results. The traditional English Tailors use the two fingers rule for all measuring points [chest, waist, seat] for a more fitted look. Place the tape measure comfortably over two fingers around the point of reference, and note your size. The four fingers rule is well suited if you desire a more relaxed and looser fit. 7
8 P S P T P U P R P S P T P U Measuring guide for SPORT COATS NECK Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple) keeping the tape a. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. Measure across your shoulder to your elbow and down your wrist. The total length is your arm length. Measure from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the coat. Sport Coats SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH ALTERING YOUR SPORT COAT It s always easier to take in a jacket that is a little looser (or tailor it), rather than letting it out. If you are in between sizes, size up. TWO FINGERS RULE FOUR FINGERS RULE The traditional English Tailors use the two fingers rule for all measuring points [chest, waist, seat] for a more fitted look. Place the tape measure comfortably over two fingers around the point of reference, and note your size. The four fingers rule is well suited if you desire a more relaxed and looser fit. 4 8
9 P S P T P U P R P S P T P U Measuring guide for MODERN AMERICANA TAILORED FIT SPORT COATS. NECK Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple) keeping the tape a MODERN AMERICANA Tailored Fit SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. Measure across your shoulder to your elbow and down your wrist. The total length is your arm length. Measure from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the coat ALTERING YOUR SPORT COAT It s always easier to take in a jacket that is a little looser (or tailor it), rather than letting it out. If you are in between sizes, size up. TWO FINGERS RULE FOUR FINGERS RULE The traditional English Tailors use the two fingers rule for all measuring points [chest, waist, seat] for a more fitted look. Place the tape measure comfortably over two fingers around the point of reference, and note your size. The four fingers rule is well suited if you desire a more relaxed and looser fit. 4 9
10 Measuring guide for SUITS. NECK Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple), keeping the tape a Suit Jackets & Sport Coats EU SIZE US SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH 5. BODY LENGTH CHEST. WAIST ARM LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. Measure across your shoulder to your elbow and down your wrist. The total length is your sleeve length Suit Bottoms EU SIZE US SIZE 6. WAIST 7. FRONT RISE 8. INSEAM 7 8 Wear a jacket that fits well to measure from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the coat. 6. WAIST FRONT RISE Measure the distance from the middle of the crotch seam to the top of the waistband. 8. INSEAM Measure from the crotch seam to the bottom of the leg
11 P S P T P U P R P S P T P U Measuring guide for OUTERWEAR 4 5. NECK Measure around the middle of your neck (at the Adam s apple), keeping the tape a. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck. Measure across your shoulder to your elbow and down your wrist. The total length is your sleeve length. Measure from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the coat. SIZE. NECK. CHEST. WAIST 4. ARM LENGTH BUYING OUTERWEAR When you are buying an outerwear piece, we recommend you try the outerwear piece on with a chunkier sweater for a more realistic fit. TWO FINGERS RULE FOUR FINGERS RULE The traditional English Tailors use the two fingers rule for all measuring points [chest, waist, seat] for a more fitted look. Place the tape measure comfortably over two fingers around the point of reference, and note your size. The four fingers rule is well suited if you desire a more relaxed and looser fit.
12 Measuring guide for DENIM Classic Fit. WAIST SIZE. WAIST. INSEAM. LEG OPENING INSEAM Wearing pants that fit well, measure from the crotch seam to the bottom of the leg.. LEG OPENING Measure from seam to seam directly across the leg opening. Multiply by two DENIM FIT & ALTERATIONS Fit is the most important thing to look for in a pair of jeans. Most denim has a hint of stretch which serves as a pure design feature. During regular wear, the fit will become more relaxed as the cotton stretches; however, once you wash them and expose the cotton to any type of heat, you ll shrink them back to their original size and in some cases even a bit smaller. The best thing to do then is to put the denim on and stretch them out with extensive body movement. And, depending on the actual jean wash, your denim will have a different fit so be aware of the various denim washes. If you are shortening the length, we recommend that your seek a local tailor that has a chain stitch machine to ensure a consistent stitching look Follow the care instructions recommened for garment preservation Tailored Fit SIZE. WAIST. INSEAM. LEG OPENING
13 Measuring guide for BOTTOMS Classic Fit. WAIST. INSEAM Measure from the crotch seam to the bottom of the leg.. LEG OPENING Measure from seam to seam directly across the leg opening. Multiply by two. SIZE. WAIST. INSEAM. LEG OPENING LAUNDERING YOUR PANTS Follow the care instructions recommended on the label for preservation of the garment or hand wash cold. Reshape, dry flat or hang to dry.
14 Measuring guide for MODERN AMERICANA TAILORED FIT BOTTOMS MODERN AMERICANA Tailored Fit SIZE. WAIST. INSEAM. LEG OPENING. WAIST. INSEAM Measure from the crotch seam to the bottom of the leg.. LEG OPENING Measure from seam to seam directly across the leg opening. Multiply by two LAUNDERING YOUR PANTS Follow the care instructions recommended on the label for preservation of the garment or hand wash cold. Reshape, dry flat or hang to dry. 4
15 Measuring guide for KNITS SIZE. CHEST. SLEEVE LENGTH. BODY LENGTH XS S CHEST. SLEEVE LENGTH and place your hand on your hip. Hold the tape at the center back of your neck Measure across your shoulder to your elbow and down your wrist. The total length is your sleeve length.. BODY LENGTH Measure from the bottom of the collar to the bottom of the sweater. M L XL XL XL XL MEASURING KNITS The very nature of the knitted garment is more forgiving, offering an easy fit style. As the old garment industry adage says, what knits always fits. However, best practice is to measure the core garment flat for more accurate sizing. The finer knot (fine gauge) sweaters/ knits will stretch and grow less and will therefore fit more true to size. The medium range knits will grow a bit so apply more forgiveness to sizing. The very chunky or heavier rib knit sweaters need the most tolerance in terms of sizing. For preservation of the knit s natural silhouette, do not hang and store flat. Alternatively, hang the knit folded to keep it from stretching unnecessarily on the hanger. 5
16 Measuring guide and key terms for FOOTWEAR FOOTWEAR CONVERSION CHART US EU UK JP MX
17 Measuring guide for BELTS Size of belt in inches (, 4, 6, 8, 40, or 4) from top SIZE of OF the BELT belt IN to INCHES (, 4, 6, 8, 40 or 4) the middle from hole. top of belt to the middle hole) FINDING YOUR BELT SIZE One way to determine which belt size to choose is to buy a belt that is one to two inches larger than your current pants size. For example, if you wear a size 4 pants, you could order a size 6 belt. standard measure between belt holes 6 6 standard measure from belt end to first hole Measuring guide for HATS SIZE HEAD SIZE HAT SIZE Small Medium Large XLarge X Large X Large FINDING YOUR HAT SIZE To measure your hat size, place a string or tape around your head about /8 above your ear, across the midforehead, completely circling your head. Hold the tape firmly but not too tightly. You need to measure your head exactly where the hat will sit. If your measurement falls between sizes, choose the next largest size. 7
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