DISCONNECTED LAYER SHAPE HAIRCUT

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1 HAIRCUT Overview Stacey Broughton s salon creative tutorial is an innovative disconnected layered shape on textured hair. The hair is elevate and cut from shorter to longer to maintain length and weight around the perimeter outline. This is worked on both sides moving toward the front with varying degrees of elevation with disconnection in the sides. In the central section cut a line from short in the front to long in the back, then a parallel section cut from short to long working from back to front in an opposite manner. This technique creates a loose broken fringe shape. The top section is connected in the crown area which is disconnected from the side section, to create the final result of a luxurious, loose, romantic, quintessentially feminine look resonating of casual street chic with home done undertones. Skill Level Advanced Technical Skills Blunt Cutting - Club Cutting - Disconnection - Elevation - Freehand Cutting - Layering - Sectioning Page 1

2 Before Emma before the haircut. We have chosen not to use protective clothing in order that the body position of the model can be clearly seen. This may have health and safety implications. Step 1 - sectioning Section from the temple lobe area on both sides, then move around the parietal ridge and back down to a point where the head rounds below the crown and above the occipital bone. Then zig-zag the fringe area, which will create a diffused fringe of longer and shorter areas. Step 1 - sectioning continued Step 1 - sectioning continued Page 2

3 Step 1 - sectioning continued Step 1 - sectioning continued Step 2 Start in the centre-back from the point to the nape. In this instance, Stacey has decided the desired length to be approximately 17 cm. Step 3 Pull the section out, the top part will be ninety degrees and the bottom will be elevated and cut from shorter to longer to maintain length and weight around the perimeter outline. Page 3

4 Step 4 Continue with vertical sections from the centre, working around towards the ear. As you proceed, increasing the over-direction back and up. Step 5 Once you reach the corner of the bottom hairline disconnect approximately 5 cm to support the perimeter shape. Step 6 Note: on this first disconnected section Stacey brings down the hair to assess the length. Step 7 Continue with this process until you reach the mastoid area just behind the ear. Page 4

5 Step 8 Repeat this process on the second side. Step 8 - continued Step 9 Cross check your work horizontally, ensuring the same elevation. Step 10 Return to the initial side and, using the previous section as a guide and with the same elevation and slight over-direction, continue with the internal shape. Note: Stacey continues to disconnect the last 5 cm. Page 5

6 Step 11 Continue with this process until you reach a vertical section on the top of the ear. Step 12 Repeat this process on the second side staying aware of balance, angles and over-direction. Step 13 Return to the first side and continue this process using vertical sections with elevation, over direction and disconnection through to the front hairline. Step 13 - continued Page 6

7 Step 14 Cross check horizontally to check the balance. Step 15 Repeat this process on the second side. Step 16 Work the perimeter outline shape in the back with a pointing technique through your fingers to create a broken solid line. Step 17 Connect the side areas back and down. Page 7

8 Step 17 - continued Step 18 Now work with the fringe area. Take a central section and cut a line from short in the front to long in the back. This forms the shortest length in the fringe. Step 19 Take a parallel section and cut from short to long, working from back to front in an opposite manner. Step 20 Continue to alternate the short area from front to back and work all the way through the first side in the top. This technique creates a loose broken fringe shape. Page 8

9 Step 20 - continued Step 21 Work with the remainder of the top section. Use a guide from the centre of the underneath and cut from short to long towards the fringe. Step 22 Take parallel sections on either side of the central section, overdirecting to the first section. Note: because Stacey over-directs this top section back it naturally falls over the shorter underneath. This provides texture and volume to the flatter internal shape. Step 22 - continued Page 9

10 Step 22 - continued Step 23 Use a variety of freehand techniques to refine the shape. Step 23 - continued Finish The final result is a luxurious, loose, romantic, quintessentially feminine look resonating of casual street chic with home done undertones. Page 10