Instructions to sew your very own handy iphone Stand Cushion.

Transcription

1 Instructions to sew your very own handy iphone Stand Cushion. This simple iphone Stand Cushion is sewn using your favourite medium weight fabric and filled with polyester fibre filling/stuffing. A polyester/co@on Poplin fabric, or 100% co@on fabric, would be a suitable choice. I will even show you how to decorate a plain fabric using only the sftches on your basic sewing machine if required. Materials: 30cm fabric a poly/co@on Poplin or 100% co@on would be suitable (90cm or 115cm width). threads matching for seams, a selecfon of colours for decorafon if required Polyester fibre filling/stuffing

2 STEP 1: Fold poly poplin fabric in half and cut a 13cm x 21cm rectangle on the fold. STEP 2: Unfold the cut piece of poly poplin and cut a piece of stabilizer the same size.

3 If you wish to sew lines of sftching on your fabric as decorafon complete steps 3 to 5: STEP 3: On the right side (front) of the poly poplin fabric, rule from corner to corner in both direcfons. It should look like an x. STEP 4: Use a standard school ruler to rule evenly spaced lines along the x. (Clearly the quality of the ruler is not important as this one is very old and scruffy!) STEP 5: Repeat in the opposite direcfon.

4 STEP 6: Pin the stabilizer on to the wrong side (back) of the poly poplin fabric. STEP 7: Tack around the fabric securing the stabilizer. Remove all pins. (To thread a needle for tacking, to sftch a temporary knot at the start and end of your tacking and how to start tacking, see the notes below for further details.)

5 To thread the needle for tacking: Cut the end of the thread with scissors to ensure a nice blunt end that will pass through the eye of the needle easily. NoFce how there is only a few millimeters of thread visible, this will ensure the thread stays rigid and passes through the eye of the needle easily. Thread the needle and pinch the eye of the needle so that the thread cannot fall out. Have about 10cm of extra thread hanging to one side of the eye of the needle. Measure the rest of the thread down to your elbow and carefully cut with scissors. This is a good amount of thread to tack with. Any more than this and the thread is likely to tangle. NoFce that tacking only uses a single thread.

6 To s4tch a temporary knot at the start and end of your tacking: Make a small sftch through the fabric and stabilizer. NoFce how the sftches are quite close to the edge of the fabric. If we make them close to the edge they will be sewn into the seam later on. If they are sewn into the seam we will not see them on the front of our iphone stand and we will not have to pick them undone. Before the thread pulls out of the fabric, pinch it with your thumb and pointer finger. Repeat - make another small sftch on top of the first one. This should stop your thread from pulling out as you start to tack.

7 To s4tch a temporary knot at the start and end of your tacking (con4nued): To make the sftches even more secure, nofce how a loop forms as you slowly pull the thread through as you make your second sftch. Pass the needle through the loop and pull the thread Fght. This will make a knot on your fabric. It will not hold for ever but it will stop the thread from pulling out as you start tacking. Be sure to leave about 10cm of thread at the end of your tacking to allow you to sftch another temporary knot so your tacking is secure. How to start tacking: Tacking is a basic sftch. As you can see it all happens on the top of the fabric. You thread the needle in and out of the fabric. When you pull the needle through a sftch is formed. (You may be able to thread a few sftches at a Fme.)

8 STEP 8: Using straight, zig- zag and decorafve sftches sftch along the ruled chalk lines. Alternate different coloured threads and sftches to create an interesfng on your fabric. Remember to match the top and threads. Remember to hold the threads as you start to sew to avoid tangles. NoFce how my index and middle fingers are pressing on the ends of the two threads and my thumb is smoothing and guiding the fabric as it approaches the needle. Once you ve sewn a couple of sftches on your fabric let go of the threads and use both hands to guide and smooth your fabric. Start your sewing close to the edge and sew a small reverse at the start and finish of each row.

9 STEP 8 confnued : Sew all the chalk lines in one direcfon. Turn your fabric and sew in the opposite direcfon. (Skip this step if you are using a pa@erned fabric or prefer it to remain plain). You must sew a small neat reverse at the start and finish of each row. It should only be three or four sftches and it should be close to the edge so that it gets hidden in the seam allowance.

10 STEP 9: With right sides together, pin the long side and one of the short ends. On the short end, leave a 5cm for turning through and filling. 5cm opening STEP 10: Using tailors chalk rule a straight line 1.5cm from the cut edges to show where your machine sftching will go.

11 5cm opening STEP 11: Using a tacking sftch and a bright coloured thread that is easy to see, tack along the chalk line. Remember to remove all of the pins before you take your fabric to the sewing machine.

12 STEP 12: Sew along the chalk lines carefully. Remember to hold the threads as you start to sew to avoid tangles. Don t forget to reverse when you stop at the end of each chalk line. A reverse is like a knot, it stops your sftches from coming undone. Be sure to use a thread that matches your fabric colour. Remember top and bo@om threads must match.

13 STEP 13: On the open end that has not been sewn, mark the centre point with coloured chalk. This will be in the fold crease. STEP 14: Match the chalk mark/ centre point with the seam and all of a sudden you will have a funny triangle, iphone stand shape in front of you. seam STEP 15: Pin together your new seam, measure a 1.5cm seam allowance from the cut edge and mark with chalk like you did on the last two seams.

14 STEP 16: Tack along the ruled chalk line. Remember to remove all pins before sewing on the machine.

15 STEP 17: Sew along the chalk lines in matching thread. Remember to reverse at the start and end. This seam must be very straight as it will form the front edge of your stand.

16 STEP 18: Turn the sewn fabric through by pulling a corner out the 5cm opening. You will now see the right side of your fabric. STEP 19: Use a blunt pencil to push out the three corners so that they are nice and pointy. Do not push too hard and make a hole in your fabric.

17 3cm STEP 20: Smooth out the front edge ready to mark out the seams for the front roll. An easy way to find the front of your work is to nofce that the front has no seams down the middle of it. (The back and do.) The 5cm opening should also sit down the at the back of your work. Use a ruler and chalk to mark out a line that sits 3cm from the front edge. You must leave a 4cm gap at the end of the line. This allows you to add stuffing to the roll later. 4cm

18 STEP 21: Mark another line 4.5cm from the front edge. 4.5cm STEP 22: Pin along the ruled lines and tack between the two lines in a bright colour. STEP 23: Remember to remove all pins before sewing in a matching thread colour. 4cm opening Front roll

19 Do not fill second tube Front roll 4cm opening STEP 24: Use a blunt pencil to help push small pieces of fibre filling down the 4cm opening into the front roll. Fill the front roll so that it sits nice and round. Do not over fill. Do not fill the second tube.

20 All filling should be pushed up into the sftched tube. 4cm opening STEP 25: Using your fingers and the pencil if needed, push the filling Fghtly up into the front tube. The 4cm opening fabric should sit flat now. Using chalk, rule across the 4cm opening to complete the rows of sftching that will close the front roll and second tube.

21 STEP 26: Sew along the chalk lines in the same matching thread colour that you used previously. Reverse at the start and end of your sewing. Your lines of sftching should join very neatly. STEP 27: Use your fingers to push the filling back along the front roll evenly.

22 STEP 28: Use a blunt pencil to help push small pieces of fibre filling into the 5cm opening at the back of the iphone stand. Do not over fill the stand. STEP 29: Tuck the raw edges of the 5cm opening in neatly to confnue the back seam down smoothly and in a straight line. Pin.

23 How to 4e a knot at the end of your thread when sewing with double threads: (See notes on how to thread the needle in previous slides.) Thread the needle and pull both ends of the thread down to your elbow. Work with both threads held together as one. Wrap the end of of the threads around your middle finger. Use your thumb to pinch the thread in place. Pull the longer thread across the top of the ends Push your index finger under the point where the threads cross each other.

24 How to 4e a knot at the end of your thread when sewing with double threads con4nued : Using your other hand, push the shorter ends through the loop and pull them through and Fghten the knot. Your knot should sit close to the end of the threads so that you will have plenty of length to hand sew with.

25 STEP 30: To sew the 5cm opening closed use double threads at the end. (See previous slides for notes on how to thread up the needle when sewing with double threads and how to knot the thread.) 5cm opening Back seam If each sftch comes up from inside the opening and catches just a few millimetres of the edge of the fold, your sftches should be almost hidden. You can push the tails of your knot inside the opening and hide them before the first sftch. Make a Fny sftch on the top of the fold - first on the lek, then a li@le higher on the right. ConFnue all the way up the opening to close it neatly. (Imagine you are climbing up a ladder.) SFtch two knots. (See notes on temporary knots when tacking in previous slides.) Push your needle back into the seam, come out a couple of cenfmetres away in the bo@om seam and trim threads carefully at the fabric so loose ends are hidden inside the fabric.

26 Congratulations! Your iphone Stand is complete.

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