THE CUT FUNDAMENTALS

Transcription

1 FUNDAMENTALS The six Fundamental techniques form the basis of hair cutting. The techniques can be adapted to suit different lengths and textures. They include one length, graduation and layering. One Length Forward Graduation Natural Inversion Square Layers Round Layers Vertical Graduation STYLIST TRAINING D 13

2 ONE LENGTH The One Length cutting technique is used to create a square one level line that falls below the shoulder. One length : Profile parting diagonal forward horseshoe One length : Natural fall to over-directed One length : 0 in the comb One length : Square 14

3 FORWARD GRADUATION The Forward Graduation technique is a combination of the one length cutting technique at the back and face framing graduation at the front One length : Profile parting diagonal forward horseshoe Forward graduation : Profile parting radial diagonal back pivoting diagonal back One length : Natural fall to over-directed Forward graduation : Natural fall One length : 0 in the comb Forward graduation : Held at a graduation level - into a stationery level of graduation One length : Square Forward graduation : Visually from the base line up 15

4 NATURAL INVERSION CLIP CLIP Baseline Slide Cutting The Natural Inversion technique creates a surface layer for volume and texture. Internal : Profile parting diagonal forward profile section diagonal back Baseline : Profile parting horizontal Forward graduation : Profile parting radial Internal : T to the parting to over-directed Baseline : Natural fall Forward graduation : Natural fall Internal : 90 to over-directed Baseline : One fingers depth Forward graduation : Held at a graduation level Internal : Visually increasing in length Baseline : Point cut as a rounded baseline Forward graduation : Slide cut 16

5 SQUARE LAYERS The Square Layers cut creates internal texture and shape on a mid-length baseline. Baseline : Profile parting diagonal forward horseshoe Forward graduation : Profile parting radial diagonal back parallel diagonal back Internal : Profile section radial Behind radial : Pivoting radials In front of radial : Horizontal Baseline : Natural fall Forward graduation : T to the parting Internal : 90 to over-directed Baseline : One fingers depth Forward graduation : Held at a graduation level Internal : 90 to over-directed Baseline : Square Forward graduation : Visually from the baseline up Internal : Square 17

6 ROUND LAYERS The Round Layers technique creates texture through the internal area of the cut and softness around the perimeter. Internal : Profile section radial Behind radial : Pivoting radials In front of radial : Horizontal Internal : 90 Perimeter : Natural fall Internal : 90 Perimeter : One fingers depth Internal : Parallel to the head Perimeter : Point cut visually 18

7 VERTICAL GRADUATION The Vertical Graduation technique creates shape and texture through the interior and graduated softness around the perimeter. Below horseshoe : Profile section diagonal forward Above horseshoe : Radial pivoting radials diagonal forward Top : Profile section horizontal Below horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Above horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Top : 90 to over-directed Below horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Above horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Top : 90 to over-directed Below horseshoe : Vertical graduation Above horseshoe : Vertical graduation Top : Square 19

8 PRECISION The three Precision techniques create strength through the perimeter edge of a shape and are worn above shoulder level. Classic Bob Graduated Bob Classic Graduation 20

9 CLASSIC BOB The Classic Bob is a one length cut above shoulder level. Perimeter : Profile parting diagonal forward horseshoe Perimeter : Natural fall Perimeter : 0 in the comb Perimeter : Square 21

10 GRADUATED BOB The Graduated Bob combines a graduation technique through the nape area, with a one length line through the side. Nape : Profile parting diagonal forward profile section pivoting diagonal forward Above nape : Diagonal forward horseshoe pivoting diagonal forward Nape : T to the parting Above nape : Natural fall Nape : Held at a graduation level Above nape : Held at a stationary level of graduation at the back working into one fingers depth at the side Nape : Cut to decrease in length Above nape : Parallel to the parting 22

11 CLASSIC GRADUATION The Classic Graduation technique is a short cut that combines a one length effect through the top area with a rounded graduation through the nape. Below occipital : Curved diagonal back Above occipital : Natural parting radial diagonal forward curved diagonal back Below occipital : Over-directed T to the parting Above occipital : Natural fall Below occipital : Held at a graduation level Above occipital : One fingers depth at the sides held to a stationary level of graduation at the back Below occipital : Cut to decrease in length Above occipital : Parallel to the parting 23

12 TRANSIENT The three Transient techniques create textured lengths internally and through perimeter edges. They are fluid, personalised shapes which allow adaptability and versatility. Transient Length Transient Cut Transient Graduation 24

13 TRANSIENT LENGTH The Transient Length haircut is a longer layered shape, point cut for texture and versatility. Internal : Profile parting radial Behind the radial : Profile section pivoting radials In front of the radial : Pivoting radials Forward graduation : Profile parting radial Behind the radial : 90 to over-directed In front of the radial : T to the parting Baseline : Natural fall Forward graduation : Natural fall Behind the radial : 90 to over-directed In front of the radial : Held at a layering level Baseline : One fingers depth Forward graduation : Held at a graduation level Internal : Point cut visually from long to short Baseline : Point cut square at the back Forward graduation : Slide cut Slide Cutting 25

14 TRANSIENT CUT The Transient Cut is a mid-length signature look that is based on softness and versatility. Perimeter : Profile parting diagonal forward horseshoe Behind radial : Profile section pivoting radials In front of radial : Pivoting radials Perimeter : Natural fall Behind the radial : 90 to over-directed In front of the radial : T to the parting Perimeter : One fingers depth Behind the radial : 90 to over-directed In front of the radial : Held at a layering level Perimeter : Point cut square at the back point cut visually rounded at the sides Internal : Point cut visually rounding to the head 26

15 TRANSIENT GRADUATION The Transient Graduation combines graduation in the nape with the versatility of a longer top area. Nape : Profile parting diagonal forward profile section diagonal forward sections Below horseshoe : Profile section diagonal forward sections Above horseshoe : Radial natural parting profile section pivoting radials Nape : T to the parting Below horseshoe : T to the parting Above horseshoe : T to the parting Nape : Held at a graduation level Below horseshoe : Held at a graduation level Above horseshoe : Held at a layering level Nape : Point cut vertical graduation Below horseshoe : Point cut vertical graduation Above horseshoe : Point cut visually rounding to the head 27

16 CREATIVE CLASSICS The two Creative Classics are signature TONI&GUY advanced techniques that through time have proved to be extremely successful in the salon environment. Bevel Undercut 28

17 BEVEL Curved perimeter The Bevel technique combines a rounded bob shape through the perimeter with softness within the interior. Perimeter : Profile parting radial horizontal horseshoe Behind radial : Profile parting diagonal forward profile section vertical sections radial In front of radial : Diagonal forward sections horizontal Perimeter : Natural fall Behind radial : 90 to over-directed In front of radial : T to the parting 90 to over-directed Perimeter : One fingers depth Behind radial : 90 to over-directed In front of radial : Held at a layering level Perimeter : Parallel to the parting through the back visually rounded through the sides Internal : Square 29

18 UNDERCUT The Undercut technique is worked to a short length below the curvature of the head through to a longer disconnected length through the top area. Below horseshoe : Diagonal back Above horseshoe : Radial profile section parallel sections Below horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Above horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Below horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Above horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Below horseshoe : Vertical graduation scissor over comb Above horseshoe : Point cut to increase in length towards the face 30

19 MENS The two Men s techniques create strong, masculine shapes on varying lengths and textures. Textured Crop Square Graduation 31

20 TEXTURED CROP The Textured Crop combines a scissor-over-comb technique with a textured interior. Below horseshoe : Horizontal Above horseshoe : Diagonal back pivoting radials Top : Profile section - horizontal Below horseshoe : 90 Above horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Top : 90 to over-directed Below horseshoe : 90 Above horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Top : 90 to over-directed Below horseshoe : Parallel to the parting scissor over comb Above horseshoe : Vertical graduation Top : Point cut square 32

21 SQUARE GRADUATION Scissor over comb the perimeter The Square Graduation technique creates a strong technical shape through the interior into a tapered perimeter. Below horseshoe : Diagonal back Above horseshoe : Diagonal back Top : Natural parting - horizontal Below horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Above horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Top : 90 to over-directed Below horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Above horseshoe : 90 to over-directed Top : 90 to over-directed Below horseshoe : Vertical graduation scissor over comb Above horseshoe : Square graduation Top : Point cut square 33