Paint: Acrylic paint black, barn red, antique white. Embroidery Floss: Country red. Doll needle (3 or 5 inches long)

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1 Bits & Pieces Annie Doll Designs Basic Supplies for Dolls Only: Muslin Stuffing Card Stock Mechanical Pencil Doll needle (3 or 5 inches long) Paint: Acrylic paint black, barn red, antique white Embroidery Floss: Country red Wood or plastic ruler Embroidery needles Paint brushes Pinking shears (optional) Hemostats (optional) Small spray bottle for water (optional) Basic Sewing Supplies Rusting: White vinegar, peroxide, salt, paper towels, sprits bottle, large plastic container. Staining: Instant coffee, vanilla extract, fragrance oil. Optional for staining: Old cookie sheet, rags, wax paper, glass jar with lid. Lillie Mae's Crafts Charming & Winsome Raggedy Annie & FolkArt Patterns USA * Muncie, IN lilliemaescrafts@yahoo.com Bits & Pieces Annie Designs "Annie Doll Designs" By Brenda Greenwalt of Lillie Mae's Crafts

2 Lillie Mae's Crafts Ten years ago, after completing my first Annie doll, I knew my life would never be the same again; I had found my passion. Since then I have gone on to create my own Annie designs. I find that I just can't get enough. I'm no sooner working on one design than I have the next one working in my mind. The sense of accomplishment achieved when completing an Annie is one that I cannot describe. Each one is individual with a personality all her own. In this booklet you will find 11 separate Annie designs from 10-inch dolls up to 19-inch dolls. Some will come with bodice, skirt, dress, and/or bloomer designs and others do not. Each doll is complete with head/body, arms and legs. Everything you need to complete your very own individual Annie doll is included here in this book. Just remember though that everything is copyrighted. So please feel free to sell your finished dolls on E-bay, craft fairs, etc., but please give Lillie Mae's Crafts the credit for the design. So happy sewing. Wishing you much luck in all your crafting endeavors. Many Blessings, Brenda 2

3 Lillie Mae's Crafts A Lillie Mae s Crafts original E-Book by Brenda Greenwalt Bits & Pieces Annie Designs Creating an Annie Rag Doll from Start to Finish Contents: Annie Rag Doll Tutorial Facial Feature Transference Tutorial Painting Shoes Tips Tricks Sites of Interest Recipes Doll Pattern & Clothes for: 10 inch doll patterns inch doll patterns inch doll patterns inch doll patterns inch doll patterns Read through all directions before beginning. Terms of Use: All of my craft patterns are copyrighted. You may create a reasonable amount of items from my patterns for craft fairs, bazaars, craft malls, and auctions as long as you give Lillie Mae's Crafts credit for the design. You MAY NOT mass produce items from my patterns. Copying for any reason at all is strictly prohibited. You DO NOT have permission to alter them in any way. No wholesaling of items made from my patterns. My patterns are not to be shared or redistributed in any form without my express permission. If you have any questions, please feel free to me at lilliemaescrafts@yahoo.com 3

4 Annie Rag Doll Tutorial Supplies: Muslin 1/4 yard Pencil or disappearing fabric pen. Straight pins Stuffing Basic sewing materials Optional: Pinking shears, hemostats, stuffing helpers. 1. Print out the doll patterns on card stock. Place them on doubled muslin and trace around the pattern pieces either with a pencil or disappearing fabric pen; don't forget to trace around 2 arms and 2 legs. Pin. 2. Machine stitch directly on the lines you just traced being sure to leave open where indicated on patterns. 3. Cut out your pattern pieces about 1/4 inch away from your sewn lines. I use pinking shears for this as it softens the edges and helps ease the pieces into a tight area such as the neck; remove all the bulk that can hamper a good, smooth curve. 4

5 4. Clip curves and turn. To assist with turning, many doll makers have purchased hemostats. These are actually medical tools, but can be easily purchased and are a great asset when trying to turn those small doll pieces such as arms and legs. Here is a picture of mine. You'll notice I have applied tape to one side of the handles; this is because my particular set of hemostats has a locking device on that side so to keep it from locking on me as I'm trying to use it I wrapped tape around that side. There are actually many different types and sizes of hemostats. These can be purchased in the fishing department at Wal-Mart, at local medical supply stores, and on line. These are also a great asset for stuffing. 5. After turning, your next step is stuffing. This is when you will really begin to see the shape of your Annie taking form. I've heard doll makers use many different "tools" to help them with stuffing such as screwdrivers, shish kabob skewers, etc. My personal favorite tool is a paintbrush handle; I'll use several different sizes. The very small handles I use for the hands and thumb and any other small narrow parts. For the larger body area, I use a handle from one of my brushes that actually fell off. On one end it is 5

6 completely flat and this helps with "packing." As I said, I usually stuff my dolls very firmly. I've taken a picture here of "hemostats." These are actually medical tools but can be purchased in the fishing or sport department at Wal-Mart, at local medical supply stores, or online. Here I am stuffing with, of course, one of my paintbrush handles. This is a picture to help you see how hemostats can be useful when stuffing legs, arms, etc. 6. As I stuff each section, I spray it with a little water. As the water dries, the material shrinks and helps with any bumps or bulges and leaves your doll looking smooth and firm. 7. To keep the "rag doll" effect of a primitive doll, I will stop stuffing about 2 inches from the top of the legs and arms. 6

7 Here is the head and body part completely stuffed. 8. Our next step is to sew the openings, left for turning, closed. On the arms and legs, I will machine stitch the closings. 9. The head and body section, however, has to be hand stitched closed. 7

8 10. I will usually sew the arms on approximately 1/2 inch from the head. Just line them up evenly on the body. Look at your head and decide which side you want for the front (face) and sew your arms on with the thumbs pointed towards the front of the body. 11. If you have not stained your material before you started now is the time when you would do that. Also, if you have elected to paint your doll's feet for shoes then you might want to do that after staining, but before you sew the legs on. That is my preferred way at any rate. I find it so much easier to paint the feet before the legs are attached to the body. For the purposes of this class though, we've going to go ahead and sew the legs on. Simply stand your doll on her head and line up the top of the legs with the opening on the body of the doll that has now been sewn shut. Make sure the feet are pointed inwards and towards each other. Attach the legs to the body with a simple whipstitch. Here is the finished doll. Notice her thumbs are pointed towards the front and her feet are pointed inward and towards each other. 8

9 Facial Feature Transference Tutorial Introduction I had a terrible time with the facial features on my very first primitive doll. After that I started to dread it when it came time to do the face; but I absolutely loved every other aspect of primitive doll making. So I experimented with several different methods and I finally came up with an idea that made working on the face, for me, actually enjoyable. Now not only do I no longer dread the time to embroider the nose or paint the eyes, I actually sincerely love that part of primitive doll making. I hope this very simple and very easy method works as well for you as it has for me. Supplies: Dark Brown Embroidery Floss #839 Red Embroidery Floss #221 Acrylic Paint Black Antique white FolkArt Barnyard Red acrylic paint Hard plastic or wood ruler Flexible ruler Mechanical Pencil Card stock Scissors Small paint brush Medium stencil paint brush 5-inch doll needle Small embroidery needle Paper plates Paper towels Instructions: Eyes: 1. Print and cut out eye patterns on card stock. 2. Looking at the picture, place eye patterns where you desire on the dolls face and place a few straight pins to keep them in place. 9

10 3. With a flexible measuring tape, measure from the side seam to the eye on one side and do the same on the other. Make adjustments to the eyes as necessary until they are both of equal distance from the side seam to the edge of the eyes. Once you have those straight, take the flexible measuring tape and lay it down straight across the face directly underneath the eyes making sure they are straight and even with each other. Tack them in place with straight pins. 4. Using a mechanical pencil, trace outline of eyes. Note: I use a mechanical pencil and recommend it to my customers as it has a finer line than regular #2 pencils. The wider the pencil line, the wider the eye. Using a small paint brush and with your black acrylic paint, very carefully outline the eyes. 5. Then again very carefully paint in the rest of the eye. Let dry. 10

11 6. With the end of your small paintbrush, dip the very end of the handle lightly in the antique white acrylic paint and very carefully dot in the whites of the eyes. Nose: 1. Print and cut out the nose pattern on card stock. 2. Looking at the picture, place nose pattern where you desire on the face and keep it in place with straight pins. 3. Using a mechanical pencil, outline the nose pattern. Thread your 5-inch doll needle with 2 strands of the red embroidery floss. Going in from the very top of the head with your needle (this would be covered with her hair) go all the way down to the bottom of her nose. Now...the 5-inch doll needle is necessary to reach from the top of her head down to the bottom of her nose, but it would be very difficult to try to stitch the nose with this long needle. When I get to the bottom of the nose I remove my embroidery floss from the doll needle and rethread it on a smaller needle. 11

12 4. Keeping the stitches very close together, satin stitch the entire nose. In case you're not familiar with a satin stitch, there is an illustration of the satin stitch towards the end of these instructions. When you are at the top of the nose and ready for the last stitch, unthread your embroidery floss from the small needle and rethread on your long 5-inch doll needle. Take the last stitch at the top of the nose and come out at the top of the head again. Tie a knot in the thread and trim floss. Mouth: 1. Print and cut out the mouth pattern on card stock. 12

13 2. Looking at the picture, place the mouth where you want and once again, with the flexible rule, measure on both sides of the mouth and make sure you have it evenly placed on the face. Pin with straight pins. 3. With a mechanical pencil, trace the very bottom of your doll's mouth up to the point of the bolded line (in the middle of the mouth pattern). 4. To outline curves at the outside corners of the mouth (some call them dimples), unpin the mouth pattern and move it so that one of the very ends of the mouth pattern is situated at one of the corners of the mouth that you have just traced on your doll. Line the bold mark (in the middle of the pattern) up with the line of the mouth you just traced. This is where you will want the curves, so trace an outline here. Do the same on the other side of the mouth. 5. Thread your 5- inch doll needle with 1 strand of the dark brown embroidery floss. Go in from the top of the head again and go all the way down and come out with your needle on one side of the mouth. For the mouth, especially around the curves, you will want to take small stitches; this will be easier with a smaller needle. So once again unthread your 5-inch doll needle and rethread on a small embroidery needle. Backstitch the mouth. When you are ready for your last stitch, unthread your small needle, rethread your doll needle and take your last stitch and with your needle inside the doll take it all the way back up to the center of the top of the head and bring your needle out. Tie off and trim thread. 13

14 Eyebrows & Eyelashes: 1. The eyebrows and eyelashes are really very simple to make. You will need your firm, not flexible, ruler. The eyebrows are 1/4 inch and the eyelashes are each 1/2 each. For the eyebrows, start at the very outer edge of the eye, place your ruler there and with your mechanical pencil draw a line 1/4 inch long; do this for both eyes. 2. For your eyelashes, draw the very bottom lash first as this one you can place in the very center of the eye; then draw the outer two eyelashes on either side of the first one. Again with your firm ruler, place where you want the eyelashes and with your mechanical pencil draw 3 eyelashes for each eye 1/2 inch long. 3. Thread your doll needle with a very long strand (1 strand) of the dark brown embroidery floss and using simple backstitches, stitch the eyelashes on one eye, go up and stitch the eyebrow on that eye. Do the same on the second eye ending with the eyebrow as it is then simple to take your thread back up and out through the very top of the doll's head. You can backstitch the eyelashes and eyebrows with one long (or short) stitch. When going from one eye to the other, you may need to unthread your small needle and switch to your long needle and then once you are at the next eye switch back to your small needle. Tie your thread off and trim. 14

15 Cheeks: 1. Dip a small amount of your barn red paint onto a paper towel. Light dip your medium stencil brush into the red paint. 2. Pounce the brush off on paper towels. Pounce, pounce, and pounce. Unless you want her cheeks to be very red, you will really want to pounce your brush onto the paper towel until it appears as if there is no paint left on the brush (believe me there is still paint there). Then very lightly, in circular motions, paint on her cheeks. Let dry. Here's your finished doll. 15

16 The face for your primitive doll is now done. I really sincerely hope you enjoyed it. Remember also that a primitive doll is supposed to have the appearance of a worn, wellloved, old doll. One that has been slept with, played with and drug around everywhere...they are not supposed to be perfect and in fact the more "imperfect" they are, the more desirable and the more "primitive." For instance, if you look at the nose on this doll...in the picture, you will notice that I somehow ended up curving it a bit towards the top. If I had wanted to, I could have taken the stitches out and stitched the nose again. But...I decided I like it; I think it gives her a character all her own. And I'm sure your dolls with have their own character as well. Terms of Use: This PDF pattern nor the methods or patterns expressed within are to be shared as in compliance with copyright laws. All of my craft patterns are copyrighted. You may create a reasonable amount of items from my patterns for craft fairs, bazaars, craft malls, and auctions as long as you give Lillie Mae's Crafts credit for the design. You MAY NOT mass produce items from my patterns. Copying for any reason at all is strictly prohibited. You DO NOT have permission to alter them in any way. No wholesaling of items made from my patterns. My patterns are not to be shared or redistributed in any form without my express permission. If you have any questions, please feel free to me at lilliemaescrafts@yahoo.com Here are illustrations of the satin stitch and back stitch. 16

17 Eyes Facial Feature Patterns Nose Mouth A couple of samples of where to dot on the whites of the eyes. or 17

18 Primitive Annie Rag Doll Face Transference Placement Pattern 18

19 Painting Shoes Supplies Small paint brush Black acrylic paint Thread and needle Wire hanger Pencil Sandpaper Instructions: Preparation: With needle and thread, attach a small strand of yarn to top of leg (for hanging to dry) and tie in a knot. With your wire hanger, bend ends up. Draw outline for shoes (see pattern) with pencil. Paint Shoes: With black acrylic paint, paint over the outline first. and then fill in. When finished painting, hang up on hanger to dry. I will often put a fan on them to dry them faster. Once dry, lightly sandpaper them. 19

20 Tips 1. I stuff my dolls fairly firmly; to prevent seams from popping due to stress placed on them, set your sewing machine for small stitches. 2. When stuffing, try to feed the poly-fil stuffing in with one long continuous flow of stuffing. helps to prevent air bubbles which can develop between small pieces of stuffing. 3. Spray water when stuffing shrinks the muslin and results in a tighter smoother look to your doll. Tip spray each section of the doll right before stuffing that area. 4. After painting the dolls feet for shoes, sand for a more vintage look. However, be very careful you don't sand too much or you might end up with holes. 5. After sewing your doll, cut her out with pinking shears; this helps soften the edges, helps ease the pieces into tight areas such as the neck, and removes all the bulk that can hamper a good, smooth curve. Gives a smoother finish to your doll. 6. Buy middle of the line muslin; I've had some of the cheaper that ripped easily. 7. After painting shoes (feet) black, when sanding, be careful as the dust from the sanded black paint can get on your fingers and thus get on the rest of the dolls leg...or if sanding the upper shoe, close to the leg, the dust can get on there. 8. Make several different body types; larger or smaller heads, hands with and without thumbs, smaller and larger feet, etc. 9. Print our each doll pattern on card stock and print out the instructions on plain paper. Store in large zip lock bags and label them. 10. When storing your own designs not only keep the patterns for each doll together but also the leg designs together, arms together, bodies and heads, etc. When you begin your next doll you can pull these out and decide which arms, legs, etc. you want for your next doll. 11. A hemostat is an essential tool for turning as far as I'm concerned. Turning very small sewn pieces was a struggle before I discovered this nifty little tool. I've included a picture of one here in this class. I'm not sure you can really see in the picture, but they actually have little teeth which help to grip and hold your fabric for ease in turning. I also use these for stuffing. I use them for grabbing and holding onto the stuffing as I then ease the stuffing into the arms, legs, etc. These can be bought online as well as at Wal-Mart in the fishing department or at medical supply stores. 12. Skirt patterns are not included as they are easy and simple to make. Simply measure the area where your skirt will be attached to the bodice and either double it or triple it depending on how full you want her skirt. 13. Stuffing lines: I usually stop stuffing the arms about 1-1/2 inches from the top of the arm (open end) and 2 inches from the top of the legs. 14. Unfortunately not everything attempted turns out the way we desire. Once you put your doll in the oven you are at the mercy of the fates. I cannot tell you how many dolls I've pulled from the oven with dark stains strewn about their face. However, 20

21 you must consider this. "Primitive", by definition, means "imperfect." That's their charm. And there is a buyer for every doll. If you are active in craft fairs, etc., include these dolls. 15. If you've had bad luck with baking your doll, try purchasing the tea-dyed muslin. 16. Experiment with different stains, baking times and degrees. Try hanging your doll up to dry instead of baking. I found that I love the look of purchasing the tea-dyed muslin and then staining it. It comes out with a look that I just love. 17. For my skirt pattern, I will often use a piece of card stock and putting the short end of the card stock on the fold. 21

22 Tricks 22

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25 Sites of Interest 25

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29 Recipes Where I purchase Staining: Combine ¼ cup instant coffee, 2 cups hot water, 1/4 cup Vanilla extract and ¼ teaspoon fragrance oil (Some of my preferred scents are cinnamon bun, sugar cookies, and vanilla) in a glass jar with lid. Shake for few minutes until thoroughly mixed. If the scent is not strong enough for your preference, add another 1/8 teaspoon of fragrance oil and continue this until the scent is to your liking. However, I would suggest only adding 1/8 teaspoon of fragrance oil each time because if you add too much and the scent is too strong for you, you will have to start over. Line an old cookie sheet with old rags and lay what you re staining here. With a sponge brush or spray bottle thoroughly coat. Bake for 10 minutes at 200 degrees. Check often as this can catch on fire. If you have to bake longer, only bake at 5 minute increments and always KEEP checking the oven. Store left over stain mixture in glass jar with lid for your next primitive project. Rusting Recipe: Combine 2 cups white vinegar, 1/4 cup peroxide and 2 tablespoons salt in a large plastic container; soak for 4 hours. Remove to paper towels, spritz with peroxide and spread salt on them. Let sit for another 2 hours. NOTE: This recipe calls for a large container as this recipe foams up pretty quickly. 29

30 Bits & Pieces 10-inch Doll Patterns Bits & Pieces 10-inch doll pattern 30

31 Bits & Pieces 10-inch bodice/dress pattern Neck Place on Fold 31

32 Bits & Pieces 12-inch Doll Patterns Bits & Pieces 12-inch doll pattern Bits & Pieces 12-inch doll leg pattern Bits & Pieces 12-inch doll arm pattern 32

33 Bits & Pieces 12-inch doll Bloomers Pattern Copyright 2010 Lillie Mae's Crafts Place on Fold Bits & Pieces 12-inch Bodice/Dress Pattern Place on Fold 33

34 Bits & Pieces 15-inch Doll Patterns Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll pattern Doll 1 Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll leg pattern Doll 1 34

35 Place on Fold Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll bodice pattern Doll 1 Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll bloomers pattern Doll 1 Place on Fold Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll arm pattern Doll 1 35

36 Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll pattern Doll 2 36

37 Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll arm pattern Doll 2 Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll leg pattern Doll 2 37

38 Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll bodice pattern Doll 2 Place on Fold 38

39 Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll pattern Doll 3 Attach Arms Here Nellie Head/Body Pattern Copyright 2009 Lillie Mae's Crafts X 39

40 Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll leg pattern Doll 3 Bits & Pieces 15-inch Arm Pattern Doll 3 Copyright 2009 Lillie Mae's Crafts Place on Fold Bits & Pieces 15-inch doll Bodice pattern Doll 3 40

41 Bits & Pieces 17-inch Doll Patterns Bits & Pieces 17-inch doll pattern Doll 1 41

42 Bits & Pieces 17-inch doll arm pattern Doll 1 Bits & Pieces 17-inch doll leg pattern Doll 1 42

43 Bits & Pieces 17-inch doll pattern Doll 2 43

44 Bits & Pieces 17-inch doll arm pattern Doll 2 Bits & Pieces 17-inch doll leg pattern Doll 2 44

45 Bits & Pieces 17-inch doll Bodice/Dress Pattern Doll 2 45

46 Bits & Pieces 17-inch doll bloomers pattern Doll 2 Place on Fold 46

47 X XX XX Bits & Pieces 19-inch Doll Patterns X Bits & Pieces 19-inch Doll Pattern Doll 1 X X Attach Arms Here X X Daisy Bea Head/Body Pattern Copyright 2008 Lillie Mae s Crafts Tape Head/Body Extension Here Tape to Body/Head Extension Here 47

48 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll panty pattern Doll 1 Place on Fold Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll leg pattern Doll 1 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll arm pattern Doll 1 Tape to Body/Head Pattern Head/Body Extension 48

49 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll pattern Doll 2 Copyright 2009 Lillie Mae's Crafts 49

50 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll arm pattern Doll 2 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll leg pattern Doll 2 50

51 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll pattern Bodice Pattern Doll 2 51

52 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll bloomers pattern Doll 2 Place on Fold 52

53 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll Pattern Doll 3 53

54 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll Leg Pattern Doll 3 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll Arm Pattern Doll 3 54

55 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll Bloomers Pattern Doll 3 Place on Fold 55

56 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll Dress Pattern Doll 3 Place on Fold 56

57 Bits & Pieces 19-inch Doll Pattern Doll 4 Bits & Pieces 19-inch doll Arm Pattern Doll 4 57

58 Bits & Pieces 19-inch Doll Bodice Pattern Doll 4 Bits & Pieces 19-inch Doll Leg Pattern Doll 4 Place on Fold 58

59 Bits & Pieces 19-inch Doll Bloomers Pattern Doll 4 Place on Fold 59