Lazy Clock Construction Templates

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2 Introduction This document contains full-size templates for building the Lazy Clock wood parts using conventional tools. The Lazy Clock prototype was designed and built using a Carvewright CNC machine and that machine's Designer software. Except for the clock's face, the parts can also be readily made using conventional tools such as a scroll saw, drill press, and router. I have not actually built a clock that way, but I have created these paper templates, extracted from the original digital design, for those that may want to give it a try. I'm also providing dimensions and some tips as to how the clock may be built without the CNC machine. I leave it to the builder to design and build a face for the Lazy Clock. I'd love to have you a photo of your own creation to dick@carveshop.com. If you've never built a wood gear clock, I suggest that you search plans and videos for construction tips, such as how to cut gears. Since I did not build the clock conventionally, I am unqualified to offer detailed instruction in this, so I have not included any. But this information is readily available for free. I do offer a digital download for Carvewright owners, and an instruction manual for building and assembling the clock using the download. Rather than write another manual, I wrote this one as a supplement to that manual. Download the Carvewright instruction manual, and just ignore the steps in the other manual regarding use of the Carvewright, and follow the build steps only. (Carvewright uses a proprietary file format, and I am unable to convert the design into more conventional CNC digital files for other CNC machine owners. Sorry.) Feel free to make modifications as you see fit to ease construction. Build notes Ratchet wheel The ratchet wheel is a critical component, and I believe it would be best to use a simple jig on a drill press to help fabricate the teeth, much like others have done to fabricate wood gears. I have marked the template with centering holes for a 1/16" drill bit at the periphery of the ratchet wheel. Using a jig with a temporary axle and a hole drilled in the center of the wheel, it should be fairly straightforward to accurately locate and drill 60 holes around the wheel. Then follow up with cuts using a scroll or band saw. Base The four smaller holes in the front of base are 3/16" diameter and drilled to a depth of 1/2". The post holes top and bottom are 1/2" diameter drilled 1/8" deep with a Forstner bit. Corresponding holes must be drilled precisely mirror image into the back of the face, so you may want to make and use a template that you can flip over. Page 2

3 Drill the large hole with a 3/4" Forstner 1/2" deep. If you find when assembling the clock that the armature has insufficient travel for reliable pawl operation, you may have to elongate this hole slightly. Drill 1/8" holes in the center of the post holes through the base, then countersink from behind. From the back, the wires hole and coil attachment hole are 1/8" diameter. The location and size of the pockets for the circuit board and battery box are not critical, except to avoid the holes drilled from the front., and be large enough for the components that go in them. The pockets were cut 5/8" deep in the prototype. The circuit board pocket is 1-1/2" x 1-3/4" inside and the battery pocket -1/2" x 2-1/2". The battery box has a lip 1/4" deep, with a 1/4" plywood cover. The cover has a recess to provide clearance for ten circuit board. You may want to build some jigs for your router to guide cutting these pockets. Half inch parts These parts are actually cut from 7/16" thick stock, commonly available in home centers, as described in the other manual. Pawl and armature parts and hands are cut in three dimensions. This can be done after the parts are first cut out in x and y directions using the templates, then turned 90 degrees and cut the z depth on edge. Then finish with a wood rasp. The pawl tips might be best cut in the z direction first using a Forstner bit before cutting x and y. Leave 1/4" in the z direction, so that when you assemble the 2-part parts they will be 1/2" thick. Use this oblique view to see where to cut in the z direction. The recess in the rectangular coil back piece is actually cut into that part's back side, and is not seen. It provides clearance for the coil wires. You could form it with a series if small Forstner bit cuts that would work fine. Consult the lazy Clock Carvewright instruction manual for the hole sizes for these parts, as well as the wheels and pinions. Page 3

4 Templates This document has been formatted for 8-1/2" x 11" paper. I've included this inch scale for you to verify that your printed templates are indeed scaled properly. Figure 1 Ratchet Wheel Page 4

5 Figure 2 32T Wheel Page 5

6 Figure 3 30T Page 6

7 Figure 4 - Quarter inch parts Page 7

8 Figure 5 Half inch parts Page 8

9 Figure 6 - Base front, top Page 9

10 Figure 7 - Base front, bottom Page 10

11 Figure 8 - Base back, top Page 11

12 Figure 9 - Base back, bottom Page 12

13 References Visit for More information on the Lazy Clock. The Lazy Clock Carvewright Project instruction manual, which you will need in addition to these templates and notes to build a clock. Price and availability of a hardware kit for all the non-wood parts necessary to complete the Lazy Clock. Complete schematics for the electronics and source code for the microcontroller if you want to build your own. Price and availability of a wood parts kit for the Lazy Clock. If you're building a Lazy Clock, I'd love to hear from you - dick@carveshop.com. Copyright 2013 by Dick Bipes. All rights reserved. Page 13