Tools: Every craftsman kit builder should have the basic tools you need to construct this kit. They are:

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Blake Griffith
6 years ago
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Thank you for purchasing the Railroad Kits EF20 Car & Loco Repair Shed. This kit is the second one that I ve had the pleasure of working with Ed Fulasz on.

1 Thank you for purchasing the Railroad Kits EF20 Car & Loco Repair Shed. This kit is the second one that I ve had the pleasure of working with Ed Fulasz on. Ed painstakingly hand carved the Hydrocal master s to this. Ed is a true artist. The first model of this kit was built by Robert Seckler. The pictures in the instructions are courtesy of the second build by Mark Panzera. I can t thank them both enough for doing this for me. Please read these instructions all the way through before starting construction. Then refer to them again, step by step, as you build the kit. Enjoy it, have fun, and experiment! These instructions are the basics to construction. Your own creativity and imagination will take care of the rest. Tools: Every craftsman kit builder should have the basic tools you need to construct this kit. They are: A hobby knife and a never ending supply of new #11 blades. A steel HO scale ruler. Sandpaper: fine medium coarse Adhesive s: Elmer s type ( white & yellow), 5 Minute Epoxy, Cyanoacrylate (CA) (AKA Super Glue) & an accelerator. Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue. Small container of lightweight spackling. Various paints & brushes. Red/brown automotive spray primer. Flat black spray paint. A modelers square for 90 degree angles Small clamps A&I Mix (Alcohol & India Ink) Masking Tape Hydrocal is FRAGILE! Be careful. The good thing is breaks can be easily repaired by simply glueing the pieces back together. This often results in giving your model natural looking stress fractures that would occur overtime in masonry buildings. You ll notice these instructions jump around a bit. When one piece is drying, we go and work on another. First, familiarize yourself with the contents of this kit. 1

I. With a new & sharp #11 blade, clean and prepare the castings. Remove any flash. Here, we are removing the Hydrocal from the window openings.

With a pencil, mark around the back edges of the castings (approx 3/8 ) as shown. Then place your casting down on a flat surface with a piece of medium sandpaper.

It won t take much effort. You ll see the pencil marking s you made gradually disappearing. When they re just about gone, you re done. Repeat this process on all the Hydrocal wall castings.

2 I. With a new & sharp #11 blade, clean and prepare the castings. Remove any flash. Here, we are removing the Hydrocal from the window openings. Do not remove the Hydrocal from the big door openings yet. Note: Some builders prefer to just leave the casting solid, and paint the window openings black. II. With a pencil, mark around the back edges of the castings (approx 3/8 ) as shown. Then place your casting down on a flat surface with a piece of medium sandpaper. With very light, even pressure, sand the back of the casting. You are trying to make the casting as flat as possible. Don t over do it. Check your results every few seconds of sanding. It won t take much effort. You ll see the pencil marking s you made gradually disappearing. When they re just about gone, you re done. Repeat this process on all the Hydrocal wall castings. III. You can cut the door openings out now. We do this after sanding as the extra Hydrocal helps support the castings. The end walls with the car/loco doors are easily broken so use care and a new #11 blade. Score the casting lightly multiple times. Don t try to cut them out in one step! 2

IV. Notice the buttress castings have brick carved in only 1/16 or so on the sides.

As shown below, position the buttress on the end walls and mark the back.

Repeat this on both end walls. V. Brace the end walls as shown. We used a two part, 5 minute epoxy for the wood to Hydrocal adhesion.

3 IV. Notice the buttress castings have brick carved in only 1/16 or so on the sides. That is what you ll see revealed when the model is assembled. As shown below, position the buttress on the end walls and mark the back. This is where you put the wood corner bracing that support the corners, as well as add support to the fragile Hydrocal walls. Repeat this on both end walls. V. Brace the end walls as shown. We used a two part, 5 minute epoxy for the wood to Hydrocal adhesion. Notice where the bracing is in relation to the line we drew above in Step IV. VI. As shown on the left, glue the peaked roof sections on to the end walls. Be sure to center them. For the first step in the joining of Hydrocal to Hydrocal, we used Titebond II Premium Wood Glue. Allow plenty of time to for the glue to dry. 3

Allow plenty of time for the glue to dry.

4 VII. Next we ll prepare the side walls. Begin by aligning the castings. Glue them together and lightly clamp them to hold the wall square. Again, we used Titebond II Premium Wood Glue. Allow plenty of time for the glue to dry. If you don t have access to clamps, you can put the walls between something to hold them tight while they dry like heavier hard cover type books. Repeat this step for both sides of the building. Take your time. Don t rush this step. 4

VIII. Using a spackling compound, we ll fill the joints where each wall meets. Use a pick tool (Like a dentist would have) or a toothpick. Try not to use too much.

Now well give them extra support with wood bracing using the twopart, 5 minute epoxy. Place a piece of wood bracing flush vertically with the end of the wall. Draw a line.

5 VIII. Using a spackling compound, we ll fill the joints where each wall meets. Use a pick tool (Like a dentist would have) or a toothpick. Try not to use too much. You don t want to fill in any more than is necessary. Clean the spackling out of the mortar joints if you notice you filled any in by mistake. VIX. Using two hands, carefully turn over the walls. Now well give them extra support with wood bracing using the twopart, 5 minute epoxy. Place a piece of wood bracing flush vertically with the end of the wall. Draw a line. Do this on both edges of both side wall sections. The horizontal bracing must not extend past the lines. Use light duty clamps to hold the bracing while the epoxy sets. X. Square up the walls and glue all 4 sides together. We also added a piece of bracing to the sides, on the peaked pieces. We used the two part, 5 minute epoxy. Be sure to keep the four walls as square as possible. First, epoxy together one side wall and one peaked wall. Then epoxy the other side & peaked wall. Now assemble the two halves together. Set the structure aside. The image on the next page (Page 6) shows how the bracing all goes together. 5

XI. We ll build the Addition Annex next. Locate the parts shown here in the image on the left.

We painted our brick with a red/brown automotive primer spray paint.

While the paint was still wet, we took a damp paper towel and wiped it off of the brick surface,

6 XI. We ll build the Addition Annex next. Locate the parts shown here in the image on the left. Repeat the previous steps I & II (from page 2) on these walls. Addition Annex Parts XII. We painted our brick with a red/brown automotive primer spray paint. Then we used a light gray craft paint, watered down slightly, to fill in the mortar. While the paint was still wet, we took a damp paper towel and wiped it off of the brick surface, leaving behind the mortar lines. You re better off doing multiple light coats of the mortar painting and building your way up until you are satisfied. 6

XII Con t. We use inexpensive craft paints to paint the models and the details too.

Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue also works as a glass substitute.

Square up the building and assemble the 4 walls.

There are 3 stone caps that go on this building too.

7 XII Con t. We use inexpensive craft paints to paint the models and the details too. Here we are painting the Addition Annex wall. Cut the windows from the sprue. Save The Sprue! (See Step XXIV) We used Gallery Glass, available at craft stores, to create the glass. Pacer Formula 560 Canopy Glue also works as a glass substitute. We include clear acetate in the kit if you prefer that method. Square up the building and assemble the 4 walls. We used rust weathering powders on the roof. There are 3 stone caps that go on this building too. The inside of the walls are painted black. XIII. The Hydrocal Tool Shed is built in the same way. Find the parts in the image on the right. Clean up the casting flash. Test fit the door & window. Below, you ll see we needed to take a little bit of Hydrocal off of the door opening to make the door casting fit. 7

then lightly brushed on a silver / gray. The result is a dull rusty look.

Finally, we used some rust colored weathering powders. XIV.

piece. A small bit of sanding is required for a perfect fit.

8 XIII Con t. After squaring up the Tool Shed and using epoxy to assemble it, we primed it, then lightly brushed on a silver / gray. The result is a dull rusty look. Put in the door & window. Finally, we used some rust colored weathering powders. XIV. If you are going to block off one of the loco /car doors, test fit the filler piece. A small bit of sanding is required for a perfect fit. Don t glue it in yet if you like the look of having the brick on this piece look a little different. You ll notice on our model, we wanted it to look newer than the rest of the building so we added it after the main building was painted. 8

XV. The main building should now be ready for painting.

Then the outside with the red/brown automotive primer. XVI.

/watered down, we now do the mortar. Small areas at a time as shown. Paint, wipe, repeat.

This is one of the longest, and a very important step, in completing the look of the model.

9 XV. The main building should now be ready for painting. We painted the inside with a flat black spray paint. Then the outside with the red/brown automotive primer. XVI. Like we did in step XII on page 6, using a light gray (or white if you prefer) craft paint, thinned /watered down, we now do the mortar. Small areas at a time as shown. Paint, wipe, repeat. Do not push or wipe aggressivly. Remember, the Hydrocal walls are very fragile. Take your time. This is one of the longest, and a very important step, in completing the look of the model. Practice, or start on a corner of the building that maybe won t be seen as often, or perhaps where the Addition Annex will go. XVII. To assemble the roof of the main building cut the trusses out of the matboard. You may need to score them. Then glue them to the roof card. 9

XVIII. To roof the structure, we recommend using 3M 365 Transfer Tape as we have in this build. White glue, or even a glue stick will also work.

Cut it into strips approx 3/8 wide. Start at the bottom and apply the roofing upward to the middle. After both sides are done, run a strip down the middle to finish the roofing.

Note that the two long windowed walls are braced 5/32 from the edge. The two peaked end wall s bracing is flush with the edge.

10 XVIII. To roof the structure, we recommend using 3M 365 Transfer Tape as we have in this build. White glue, or even a glue stick will also work. Using a ruler, draw guidelines onto the roof card. This will aid you in keeping the strips straight. We supply black paper to use as simulated tar paper roofing. Cut it into strips approx 3/8 wide. Start at the bottom and apply the roofing upward to the middle. After both sides are done, run a strip down the middle to finish the roofing. Stagger the seams where the roofing strips meet as shown. XIX. Next we will build the clearstory. Gather the pieces required as shown. Using 5/32 wood, brace the walls as shown. Note that the two long windowed walls are braced 5/32 from the edge. The two peaked end wall s bracing is flush with the edge. Glue in the window castings then assemble the clearstory. You ll use 1/16 square wood to finish the 4 corners. Glue on the roof card and apply the roofing just as you did above in Step XVIII. The image on the top of the next page (Page 11) shows how our clearstory looked as we started the roofing. 10

XIX Con t. Center the clearstory on the main roof. Glue it and allow it to dry thoroughly. XX. Now you ll build the wood coal & sand shed.

This keeps the glued wood pieces from sticking to your work surface as you assemble them.

The corrugated metal roofing was cut to size, primed, dry brushed, and weathered with powders. Then it is glued on to the frame using CCA. XXI.

11 XIX Con t. Center the clearstory on the main roof. Glue it and allow it to dry thoroughly. XX. Now you ll build the wood coal & sand shed. Use the included template and cut the stripwood as indicated. Glue the parts together. Try building these on wax paper. This keeps the glued wood pieces from sticking to your work surface as you assemble them. We used masking tape, upside down, to hold the parts upright while we airbrushed them. The side boards were stained with A&I mix. The corrugated metal roofing was cut to size, primed, dry brushed, and weathered with powders. Then it is glued on to the frame using CCA. XXI. The telephone shed is simply four walls, a door, and a window. The only thing you need to know here is that the board batten or scribed siding is braced horizontally. The second picture below shows the 1/16 square stripwood glued to the peaked walls before they were trimmed flush with the angles and the bottom of the walls. The bracing diagram for the telephone shed is shown on the top of the next page. (Page 12) 11

XXI Con t. XXII. Install the windows to the main building. Test fit each opening first. Paint the frames using your preferred color. We recommend using a spray paint or an airbrush.

Again, we use Pacer Formula 560Canopy Glue for our window glass. Another product we like is by a company named Plaid and called Gallery Glass and it is available in most hobby & craft stores.

Using a toothpick, you apply the glue to the inside of each window frame or muntin. Be sure that the Canopy Glue contacts all the areas around the muntin. Then stretch it from one corner to the other.

12 XXI Con t. XXII. Install the windows to the main building. Test fit each opening first. Paint the frames using your preferred color. We recommend using a spray paint or an airbrush. This is the fastest and neatest method. If you must brush paint them, be careful not to let the paint pool up or get heavy in the corners. Again, we use Pacer Formula 560Canopy Glue for our window glass. Another product we like is by a company named Plaid and called Gallery Glass and it is available in most hobby & craft stores. It goes on white, but dries clear. Raise the windows off of your working surface. Below, we have the clearstory windows pictured, sandwiched between 2 pieces of wood, held firm with metal weights. Using a toothpick, you apply the glue to the inside of each window frame or muntin. Be sure that the Canopy Glue contacts all the areas around the muntin. Then stretch it from one corner to the other. Do this for each muntin. This is a very tedious process, but in the end the results are truly worth it as you can see below. We include clear acetate for window glass if you prefer that method. Acetate should be cut to the size of the inside of the window frame. Glue it with a small amount of CA, being careful not to get any on the areas that you ll see when looking through the windows into the structure. We painted our openings to match the windows. The window castings are held in with a small amount of glue. XXIII. The main building car or loco doors are made from Laserboard material. They are built using white glue and layered to create the effect. They can be modeled open or closed. To model them open, cut the door down the middle after you ve built it using your hobby knife with a new, sharp, #11 blade. The layers can be painted different colors before assembly to show the framing detail. Use white glue or CA to attach the doors the openings in the main building. Remember to leave clearance for the track! 12

XXIV. In Step XXII, I asked you to Save The Sprue You ll use that to attach the oil or fuel tank to the building.

Paint the assembly. We used black. Paint the 3 bases for the tank. Assume they are concrete, so use an appropriate color.

Position the tank and then cut the leftover plastic sprue from the windows to fit as shown in the image below. XXV.

Paint them and attach them together with white glue or your preferred type of adhesive. XXVI.

13 XXIV. In Step XXII, I asked you to Save The Sprue You ll use that to attach the oil or fuel tank to the building. Clean the included PVC pipe. Sand it if you have very fine grit (600?) sandpaper. Glue the two metal tank end castings using CA. Paint the assembly. We used black. Paint the 3 bases for the tank. Assume they are concrete, so use an appropriate color. Apply the included waterslide decals. Weather with chalks. Position the tank and then cut the leftover plastic sprue from the windows to fit as shown in the image below. XXV. The Safety Shoes billboard is made from matboard. Cut away the parts from the carrier. Paint them and attach them together with white glue or your preferred type of adhesive. XXVI. The roof vent castings are held onto the roof using the Laserboard constructed surrounds. We glued them with CA, and painted them, first black, then a rust color. We them weathered them with chalk powder. Glue these onto the roof. Use a thick black paint to simulate that roofing tar was used to seal it as shown here. 13

14 XXVII. We primed the castings with our spray automotive paint, and painted the castings and details with our craft paints. Look at the pictures to complete the scene. Thank you for purchasing this kit. We hope you enjoyed it. 14

Continued on next page

Continued on next page Please read these instructions completely through to be sure you are familiar with all the steps. Then following along again as you build your structure. Download a.zip file of all the pictures including