B J SCOTT LUMBER COMPANY. Presented by. Railroad Kits / kit formerly by White River Structures. Kit # WRS21

Transcription

1 B J SCOTT LUMBER COMPANY Presented by Railroad Kits / kit formerly by White River Structures Kit # WRS21 We are proud to present the second kit in this series of structures for your enjoyment. Your response to the REESE SUPPLY CO., kit # WRS11, was very encouraging. These kits are still available from us for $44.95 plus $3.00 shipping and handling. With the B.J. SCOTT LUMBER CO. kit, we are offering an option for you to select either a pre-painted kit or one that you may paint yourself. If you have selected a kit that has been painted and weathered for you, we hope it will provide inspiration for you on future projects. We have fully explained the painting process in the instructions. We recommend that you read the painting instructions even if your kit is painted. Please read the entire instructions prior to beginning work on the kit. This will familiarize you with the process, and will help to eliminate mistakes. We hope you enjoy building this structure, and hope you will be proud to display the finished product. Should there be a part missing (sorry), or should you lose or break a part, please write and tell us what you need, and we will replace it free of charge. White River Structures questions can be sent to Railroad Kits PO Box 461 Holden, MA WARNING: KITS SHOULD BE KEPT OUT OF THE REACH OF YOUNG CHILDREN. Some of the components may be harmful if placed in the mouth. Page 1 of 15

2 INTRODUCTION: The B. J. Scott Lumber Company structure has stood along the industrial spur for 49 years now. "Beej" is preparing for his gala 50th Anniversary celebration and sale. Over the years, the main building has been added to several times: the boiler room was added when steam power became the rage. A few years back, the outside woodshed was built to aid in loading trucks. Although it could stand a coat of paint, Beej has kept the building in a fairly good state of repair. TIPS ON GLUE: Pour a small amount of glue into a glass or metal (ashtray type) receptacle, and use the end of a toothpick to apply a small amount to the joint surfaces. Avoid using excessive amounts of glue to avoid smearing. We recommend: For wood to wood: a good quality yellow carpenter's wood glue. For paper: white glue. For joining unlike material such as plastic to wood or metal to wood: Walther's GOO. For plastic to plastic: liquid plastics cement. For metal to metal: a cyanoacrylic or "super" glue. Hint: Throughout these instructions, you will see "let dry." Please take your time. Having patience to let paint and glue joints dry is difficult for most of us. However, failing to do so is the most common source of irritation, reassembly, or messy spots on our work. In most cases, you can go on to the next step, or to another sub-assembly, while the last item cures. The finished product will improve if you do not rush through it. Well, let's get at it! On wooden structures, it is preferable to stain and weather the walls, platforms, doors and windows prior to construction. Other than being easier to work on, some stains and paints will not cover well over glue joints... so it is better to stain before any glue is applied. Page 2 of 15

3 STEP 1: PREPARING THE WALLS The wall sections have been laser-cut by Northeastern Scale. Lay the laser-cut pieces over the drawings in Drawing 2 to familiarize yourself with the sections. The step risers are held together by tiny "tabs". They should be removed by cutting the tabs flush with the edges of the risers. Use a sharp #11 X-Acto blade, then lightly sand the edges where needed to remove any traces of the tabs. If you have the PRE-PAINTED version, please read the painting instructions, but then skip to Step 2. All paints and stains referenced are made by Floquil... including Dio-Sol thinner. Using full-strength Driftwood Stain, brush a liberal coat on the following pieces, and let dry at least 24 hours (brush in same direction as scribed lines): All pieces on Drawing 2, EXCEPT FOR the three boiler house walls and the woodshed floor (un-scribed)... plus: 1 piece 8 X 8 stripwood (color-coded BLUE) 3 pcs. 2 X 6 stripwood (color-coded YELLOW) 3 pcs. 3 X 8 stripwood (color-coded WHITE) 4 pcs. 2 X 10 stripwood (color-coded GREEN) STEP 2: ADDING BOARD JOINTS, NAIL HOLES, KNOTS, AND STRESS CRACKS: Refer to front, back, and end-views (Drawing 1.), and to Figure 6 (Drawing 3). Using the #11 blade, lightly score some lines across individual barn boards of the scribed wall sections to represent ends of boards butted together. Do not do every board. Stagger cuts at random, and do just a few to provide the desired effect. After the cuts have been made, take a common pin and press two nail holes on each side of the cuts. It is almost impossible to make nail holes to scale, but we were quite satisfied with the effect. Add a few knotholes here and there by using the point of the #11 blade to make the center hole, then scribing the knot as shown here () Again, just a few... don't overdo. Next, add some stress cracks in the siding. Use the backside of the #11 blade; drag the blade at random over the boards in the same direction with the board. Do not press too hard; you want to avoid cutting too deeply into the wood. Not every board should be stressed, and take care not to put too many cracks into a single board. This same procedure may be applied to the loading dock pieces (1/16" scribed x 1/32" thick) if desired. Also, on the loading dock, put a nail hole in either end of each board. Page 3 of 15

4 STEP 3: ASSEMBLING MAIN BUILDING FRONT AND BACK WALL SECTIONS AND ADDING INSIDE WALL BRACING: Using yellow carpenter's glue, join the 2 main building back wall sections (see Drawing 2.). Repeat with the 2 main building front wall sections. Let dry. Using unpainted 8 X 8 material (color-coded BLUE), cut to appropriate length (shown as dotted lines on wall sections on Drawing 2.) Note: main building front and back walls have been joined -- cut bracing material to leave 1/8" short of wall edges on front and back walls only (this will allow space for bracing on end walls when building is assembled.) Glue 8 X 8 bracing to INSIDE of main building and woodshed walls as indicated. As bracing is glued to each wall section, turn section with bracing down, cover with waxed paper, and weight with heavy objects (large books) until they have dried FLAT. STEP 4: STAINING THE WALLS: If you have the pre-painted version, read the staining instructions, then skip to step 5. Unless you are experienced at model building, we suggest you practice on a piece of scrap wood to become accustomed to the procedures described below. After the coat of Driftwood has dried at least 24 hours (else we will create a "muddy" mess), we will use the "wash" method to apply color to the structure. This will allow some of the Driftwood coat to show through, and will appear as a weather-faded finish. WASHES are created as follows: pour some Dio-Sol Thinner into a small clean bottle... deep enough to totally immerse the bristles of your modeling brush. Using a 3/8" wide brush, dip into the paint so that 1/2 of the brush is covered... do not go any higher on the brush. Immediately dip the entire brush into the thinner and then apply the color to the wall section. If you get too much color, apply more thinner to wash it out... too little color, apply more paint. Repeat until all desired sections are covered. Using Signal Red paint (or other color of your choice), apply the wash to the following pieces (Signal Red is a' strong color; use thinner to give a faded-out red color): All 4 wall sections of the main building 2 pieces of 2 X 6 stripwood (color-coded yellow and previously painted Driftwood... will be used as fascia and wall trim) 2 woodshed walls and 2 triangle end pieces (allow the woodshed to be a little darker red; to appear to have been painted more recently than the main building.) (note: the lean-to walls are NOT painted red; leave Driftwood.) Page 4 of 15

5 Let this dry for several hours and then, taking a clean brush, dip the brush into the same thinner and apply the thinner over individual boards on each wall at random. This will bleed the Driftwood through the red, giving a faded appearance. Set aside to dry for 24 hours. Pour some clean Dio-Sol thinner into a bottle cap. Select a small brush, and using Depot Olive paint, add enough paint to the thinner to create a light green wash. Apply to some random boards over the Red to provide a discoloration here and there. Use enough Depot Olive to give a green, "moldy" cast to some of the boards. This will "age" the finish. Let dry. Can be repeated if you want more aging... don't over-do. STEP 5 WEATHERING THE WALL SECTIONS: Again, we suggest practicing the following procedure on a piece of scrap wood first: Take a I-ounce bottle of Dio-Sol Thinner; with an eye-dropper, add 50 drops of Grimy Black paint. Mix well. Using a 3/8" wide brush, apply this wash over all wall sections and let dry completely. Note how the black wash brings out all the details you added to the wood! The more coats of black wash you use, the more weather-beaten the finish will appear. Again, don't overdo. At this time, take the black wash and a small brush; highlight a few board sections. When the wash dries, it will provide a subtle contrast between the board sections. Save this bottle of black wash; we will use it again. STEP 6 PREPARING AND PAINTING THE WINDOWS AND DOORS: The plastic windows and 55-gallon drums are from Grandt Line. The metal doors are from Alexander Scale Models. Carefully cut the pieces from the sprues if applicable. Trim any flash from the plastic pieces and coat with Floquil Barrier (optional) to prevent the paint from crazing the material. Set aside to dry for at least 6 hours. Remove any flashing from the doors with a fine metal file, then wash them in rubbing alcohol to remove any oil/residue. After drying, the doors and windows may be painted... we used Floquil Pullman Green. Hint: stick small parts on a piece of masking tape for easier handling while painting. PAINTING WOODEN CARGO DOORS AND TRIM: Select the wooden cargo door material (Drawing 2.) (1/16" scribed siding X 1/16" thick -stained Driftwood). Cut into 2 equal pieces along one of the scribed lines, yielding 2 doors. Use the "wash" method to paint... we used Pullman Green. Also select 1 piece 2 X 6 stripwood (code YELLOW) and stained Driftwood; "wash" this with the same color for the door trim. Also select 3 pi~c2~ 0T 3 X 8 stripwood (code WHITE) and stained Driftwood; "wash" with Pullman Green for trimming the clerestory windows. Select the Woodshed Floor, a plain, laser-cut piece shown on Drawing 2. Paint one side and the edges with Concrete paint, full strength. Let dry. Page 5 of 15

6 STEP 7: INSTALL WINDOWS AND DOORS: If you wish to elect the Window-Glass-Option below, apply the Kristal Kleer to the window panes prior to installing in wall sections. After drying, trial-fit the windows and doors into their openings in the wall sections. Trim the openings with a sharp blade or file if necessary. Glue the windows and doors into the proper openings. Use Walther's GOO applied very sparingly with a toothpick to the inside edges of the castings. The GOO is a little tricky to work with... use very little... it will form a strong bond. The wooden cargo doors should NOT be added now; they will interfere with the floor assembly. If you did not opt for the window glass option below: turn the wall sections face down. Measure the window openings, and cut pieces from the clear, unprinted acetate material supplied (cut pieces slightly larger than the windows so the acetate touches the wood). Place the acetate over the window openings on the BACKSIDE of the wall. Run a bead of white glue around the edges of the acetate, gluing to the wood. Gluing the acetate directly to the window castings may cause the glue to smear the windows. Window shades may be added if you wish by cutting small pieces of paper, placing over the top portions of the inside of the windows, and gluing with a bead of white glue. Window glass option: Instead of using the acetate material, we have produced a more pleasing effect using Micro Scale's Kristal Kleer (from your hobby store). Apply a drop to each windowpane with a toothpick, using a circular motion, until the pane is filled with a thin film of the white liquid. It dries clear, with a pleasing opaque finish. STEP 8: ASSEMBLE THE CLERESTORY WINDOW SECTIONS: Refer to Drawing 3., Figure 3. Select the acetate material printed with window panes. You need 2 sections; they may be on the same piece of acetate. Also select the 3 pieces of 3 X 8 stripwood that you painted Pullman Green in Step 6. Using Figure 3 as a guide, cut 2 short end pieces of 3 X 8 first, and GOO on acetate panel as indicated. Next, cut 2 long top and bottom pieces of 3 X 8, and GOO between end pieces, taking care to center the strips directly over the lines of the panes, allowing 2 sections of panes to show between the top and bottom strips. Follow the example carefully to avoid a misfit when assembling the main building. Next, cut 3 short pieces of 3 X 8, and GOO over dotted lines between top and bottom frames. Allow to dry completely. With a sharp blade, trim the acetate close to the wood around the frames. Set aside. Page 6 of 15

7 STEP 9: MAIN BUILDING TRIM: Select 1 piece of 2 X 6 stripwood (coded YELLOW) that has been stained RED. Using Drawing 1, Right and Left Side views as a guide, cut pieces of the 2 X 6 to fit across the ends of the main building and yellow glue to the wall sections as pictured (above the B J SCOTT sign on the left side, just above the boiler house in the Left view.) CARGO DOOR TRIM: Select the piece of 2 X 6 stripwood that you painted Pullman Green (or your choice color) in Step 6. Refer to Front view on Drawing 1. Cut pieces of the 2 X 6 to fit the four inside edges of the main building cargo door opening, and glue as pictured. Also, cut and glue a 2X6 piece to the end of each cargo door that will show in the opening. STEP 10: MAIN BUILDING FLOOR: Select the 3" X 9" piece of balsa. Cut a piece for the main building floor 3" X 4-11/16". Using your HO scale ruler, mark the two 3" ends with pencil dots, 1 SCALE foot apart. Using your ruler and a medium-sharp pencil, scribe I-foot wide boards into the floor (don't press so hard that you go through the balsa). Stain the floor with Floquil Oak Stain. Let dry. Then "dirty" the floor with the black wash; let dry. STEP 11: ASSEMBLE MAIN BUILDING: Using the Drawings as guides, yellow glue the main building Front wall section between the front edges of the Right and Left end sections. Set on a flat surface to assure walls are plumb, and that corners are square. Next, glue the balsa floor to the front and ends, resting it on the lower 8 X 8 bracing. The floor should be even with the bottom of the cargo door in the front wall. The floor will not reach all the way to the back wall... it will not show in the completed structure. Next, glue the main building back wall between the back edges of the side walls. Let glue joints dry. You may want to place a couple of rubber bands around the structure to hold together while drying. Glue cargo doors inside opening in front wall, resting on floor. Glue slightly open to show interior of building. Next, using Figure 8. as a guide, select 8 X 8 material (coded BLUE). Cut and fit an 8 X 8 crossbrace between the front and back walls, at the top, center... between the bracing. Cut the crossbrace long enough to take any bow out of the front and back walls. Repeat with a similar brace under the floor. Glue the Clerestory window sections in place across the top sides... acetate to the insides, wood frames to the outsides. Page 7 of 15

8 Select more of the 8 x 8 material, and cut and fit a brace between the top points if the main building sides. Glue in low enough so as not to interfere with the roof. (Refer to Figure 8.) You may wish to darken the inside of the building at this time. With a 3/8" brush, cover the inside walls and bracing with the black wash. STEP 12: ASSEMBLE THE WOODSHED: Use Goo for this. Select the Woodshed floor, high wall, low wall and triangular end pieces (Drawing 2.) Find a couple of objects to prop the walls, and glue the high wall and the low wall to the top and to opposite edges of the woodshed floor... with the painted sides facing outward. Refer to Drawing 1, Right and Left side views. Glue the end pieces to the ends of the high/low walls as pictured, with the points of the end pieces at the top of the edges of the walls. Adjust as needed to assure a square opening. Let dry. Next, cut a brace from the 8 X 8 material, as shown in Figure 1, Drawing 3. Glue between tops of high wall and low wall in approximate center of woodshed. Position so as not to interfere with the roof (should serve as another roof support). STEP 13: ASSEMBLE THE LUMBER RACKS: Use GOO; Refer to Figure 7. (figure not to scale). Refer to Left Side View, Drawing 1. for exact size and placement. Select unpainted 2 X6 stripwood (color-coded YELLOW). Cut and glue two uprights (flat side out) between woodshed floor and to the inside of the Left end piece. Next, cut and fit 3 pieces of 2 X 6 horizontally between the 8 X 8 end braces of the high and low walls (flat sides up). Space them as shown in the Left Side view of Drawing 1. For the inside rack: Cut and fit the 3 horizontal pieces of 2 X 6, and glue between the next-in set of 8 X 8 wall braces. Look into the end of the woodshed, and align the inside pieces with the front rack. Next, glue two uprights to the cross pieces of the inside rack, again assuring they align with the uprights of the front rack (the "squares" of both racks should line up). Let dry. Dirty the racks and the insides of the woodshed walls with the black wash. Select unpainted stripwood, and cut into pieces long enough to fit between the two racks with a bit sticking out (about 2 inches). Glue in racks (yellow glue) with larger (8 X 8) wood at the bottom bins, and working up to smaller lumber in the top bins. Let some of the ends pile irregularly... even let a couple of boards fall down on the inside. Page 8 of 15

9 STRIPWOOD SUPPLIED FOR LUMBER RACKS: 2 pieces each of: 8 X 8 (coded blue) 6 X 6 (not color-coded) 3 x 8 (coded white) 2 X 10 (coded green) 2 X 6 (coded yellow) 2 X 4 (coded brown) Save some wood to make a woodpile on the loading dock. STEP 14: ASSEMBLE THE BOILER HOUSE: Select the two boiler house walls with the door/window openings (Drawing 2.) Locate the piece of plastic red brick material. Using GOO, glue the front sides of the two walls to the backside of the brick material... assuring that the brick rows are level with the bottom edges (i.e. that the bricks are level to the ground... not tilted.) Let dry. With a sharp blade or scissors, trim the brick material to all edges of the walls except leave 1/16" overhang on the right edge of the gabled wall... this will hide the corner when the walls are joined. Cut out the window and door openings from the inside using a #11 blade. Spray brick surfaces with light coat of Testor's Dull-Cote to take off the shine. Let dry, then glue in the window and door. Using a small brush and Poly-S White paint (water-based); put some water in the bottle cap, dip brush in paint, then in water, and apply a wash to the bricks. Assure the paint is diluted enough so as to not paint the bricks white, but only to give a washed appearance, and to settle in the mortar joints. With the brush or your finger, "smudge" a little white paint here and there to resemble decaying or patched mortar. Let dry. Yellow glue the three boiler house walls together; the end walls are glued to the inside of the sidewall edges. The plain end (no window, no brick) goes to the right, and will be attached to the main building end wall. Cut a piece of balsa sheet to fit as a floor and glue in place (approximately 1 1/2" X 1 5/8"). The boiler house will be glued to the high wall of the woodshed, and does not require a fourth wall. STEP 15: ASEMBLE THE LEAN-TO SHED: Select the Lean-to Wall Sections (Drawing 2.). They are painted Driftwood. Glue in the window. Refer to Drawing 1 and yellow glue the three walls together, with the window wall fitting between the edges of the side walls. Let dry. Give it a coat of black wash. Page 9 of 15

10 STEP 16: ASSEMBLE THE LOADING PLATFORM: Select the two loading dock pieces (see Drawing 2.); 1/32" scribed X 1/32" thick. On wax-papercovered flat surface, yellow glue the two pieces end to end. Let dry. Next, measure and cut off a section long enough to span the front wall of the main building (see Drawing 1, Front View). Turn this longer section scribed side down. Refer to Figure 4, Drawing 3. "Box in" the piece with 2 X 10 stripwood (code green, and stained Driftwood.) Repeat with the smaller piece, but recognize the smaller piece will be a ramp... the end on the ground will not have a 2 X 10 across the end, and the side pieces must be trimmed to allow it to lie on the ground surface (Front View.) Select the 1 piece of 8 X 8 stripwood stained Driftwood (coded BLUE). Refer to Figure 2, Drawing 3, cut 8 footer posts and glue to underside of the long platform; place as pictured in the Front View drawing. Let dry. Fit and glue the ramp section in place. Cut and fit 2 shorter footer posts for the ramp. Glue in place; set loading dock assembly aside and let dry. STEP 17: CUT OUT AND PREPARE ROOF SECTIONS: Select the pieces of card stock. There are 6 roof templates on Drawing 3. If it's easier for you to cut the templates from the drawing, please do so. Fit the templates to the card stock so that you have enough material to get all 6 pieces. HINT: An easy way to mark and cut the roof sections as follows: Masking tape the templates to the card stock. Use a straight pin to mark the corners and the ends of any fold lines by making holes through the templates into to card stock. Remove template, and with a ruler, draw solid lines to connect the corner holes, and dotted lines to mark fold lines. Then, with a ruler and a sharp blade, cut out the roof sections along the solid lines. Also score lightly along the dotted fold lines, making sure NOT to cut all the way thru the card stock; this score-line will allow a sharp fold line. Mark the roof pieces with their names if you wish. The 3 main building roof sections will get shingles applied. We advise marking a few evenly spaced horizontal lines on these pieces to guide you in keeping the shingle rows straight. See example on main building roof template 2. The shingle rows are spaced about every 9 scale inches, but you need not draw every line. Page 10 of 15

11 TRIAL-FIT the buildings together as shown in Drawing 1. Trial-fit the roof sections. The leanto roof may need to be trimmed as marked to fit over the boiler house window and the high wall of the woodshed. The left side of the boiler house roof has no overhang; it fits against the woodshed high wall. The top of the woodshed roof has no overhang; it fits against the back of the main building. Check roofs for proper fit and overhang. You may need to plane the top edge off the woodshed low wall, to allow the roof to fit flat. Using GOO, glue the following 3 roof sections to the substructures: boiler house roof, woodshed roof, main building roof 1... to top of clerestory. Do not glue the other three roof sections to structures yet; it is easier to apply the singles or roofing to these sections prior to gluing in place. STEP 18: APPLY TAR-PAPER ROOFING: Cut the black construction paper into strips that are 3 scale feet wide (use scale ruler, mark, and cut). Using white glue, apply roofing strips to woodshed roof. Start at the bottom edge, and work to the top edge, overlapping each row about 3 scale inches over the one below. Occasionally cut paper to leave a seam to suggest an end of roll - see Rear View. Roofing should be left to overhang ends or roof; when dry, trim with sharp scissors, leaving about three scale inches of overhang all round. Cover the boiler house roof and lean-to roof in a similar fashion as shown in Drawing 1. Since the lean-to roof has not yet been glued to the structure, place between waxed paper and weight with a heavy book until dry, so it will not warp. Trim edges with sharp scissors when thoroughly dry. STEP 19: APPLY THE SHINGLES: Remove the roll of shingles from the bag. The 3 main building roof sections will be shingled. Shingles should be applied to main-building roof sections 2 and 3 BEFORE they are glued to the structure. Cut strips of shingles from the roll long enough to extend about 1/2" past both edges of the roofs. Put some water into a small bowl. Using a small brush, moisten a strip of shingles. Begin at the bottom edge, attach the first strip so that the shingles extend slightly beyond the edge. Work upward, overlapping the lower row. Take care to keep the rows straight using the lines you drew as guides. The shingles will tend to bow, but do not let them! Repeat with roofs 2 and 3 until covered. As each section is completed, place between waxed paper, and weight with a heavy book and let dry overnight. When dry, trim edges with sharp scissors leaving three scale inches of overhang. Page 11 of 15

12 Cover #1 roof, which has been attached to the main building, using the same procedure, but work from the bottom up on each side. Cover the top seam with a glue-strip with the shingles cut off. Let dry; trim. Glue roof sections 2 (back) and 3 (front) in place. Apply a small amount of GOO to the bottom of the clerestory window frame as well as to other edges, and push roof sections to attach to bottom edges of clerestory window. With the point of your hobby knife, pry up a few shingles at random to give texture to the roof... again, do not overdo. STEP 20: PAINTING THE ROOFS: FASCIA TRIM: Select the other piece of 2X6 stained Red. Cut, fit, and glue fascia pieces under roof ends and against ends of main building. See Left Side view (Drawing 1.) Tar-paper roofs: with medium-sized brush, apply Grimy Black paint full strength, streaking the paint down and at a slight (wind-blown) angle. Be careful not to paint the whole roof... just streak it to give a weathered appearance. Shingled roofs: Using Floquil Earth and Grimy Black paint, take a 3/8" brush and apply Earth color to a section of the roof. While it is still wet, take a smaller brush (1/8"), and streak some Grimy Black through the Earth color. Don't over-do the black color, and brush the streaks several times to avoid any harsh lines. Continue with this procedure until all the roof sections have been painted. Let dry overnight. Then apply a coat of black wash over the roofs. When this has dried, take some Driftwood Stain and lightly streak the roofs at random. After 24 hours, you may add another coat of black wash if you wish. STEP 21: ASSEMBLE THE SMOKESTACK: Select the piece of 3/16" dowel. Cut to 4-1/8" length. Mark the center of one end with a pin, and with a 3/32" drill, hollow out the end a bit to better resemble a hollow smokestack. Paint Grimy Black; let dry. Refer to Left Side and Front views (Drawing 1.) for the proper positioning, and make a 3/16" hole through the boiler house roof. Insert the smokestack through the hole, and GOO to the boiler house floor... also apply a little GOO to the stack on the under-side of the boiler house roof. Assure that the stack is straight up and down. STEP 22: GLUE BUILDINGS TOGETHER: Refer to drawings for placement. Goo sub-structures together. May have to trim a notch off of the gable of the boiler house roof to clear the 2 X 6 trim on the end of the main building. Also attach the loading dock as pictured. Page 12 of 15

13 STEP 23: ASSEMBLE AND INSTALL STEPS: Select the three laser-cut step risers (Drawing 2) and 2 X 10 stripwood (coded GREEN) stained Driftwood. Cut 9 pieces of 2 X 10, 10 1/2 scale' feet in length (should fit between loading dock ramp and boiler house). Assemble planks to risers as illustrated in Figure 5, Drawing 3... Three planks on top step, four planks on middle step, and two planks on bottom step. Apply a coat of black wash. Attach step assembly to building as shown in Drawing 1. STEP 24: MAKE THE PALLETS: Select two unpainted pieces of lx6 (coded GRAY) and 2X4 stripwood (coded BROWN). Using the Pallet Template, Figure 9, cut 5 pieces of lx6 (the thin, flat one) two inches long... lay over the pallet template and tape the very ends with masking tape to hold. Next, cut nine pieces of 2X4 3/4 inches long, and apply yellow glue on edge, across the lx6's, as shown in the template. When the glue has dried completely, use a sharp #11 blade to cut on the two cut lines, yielding 3 pallets. These may be left as bare wood (new pallets) or stained with the black wash or with Driftwood. STEP 25: FINAL DETAILS: With leftover stripwood, make a lumber pile on the end of the loading dock. Posters: A strip of color posters has been included. Cut out a few of your choice. Using fine sandpaper, sand the backside of the posters as thin as possible, without tearing them. Even tatter the edges and dirty them by rubbing them on the floor if you want weathered posters. Then glue to the structure where you want them using white glue. Some posters were even glued over top of older posters. Let some of the corners rollover to appear to be coming loose from the wall. B J SCOTT LUMBER CO. signs: use scrap stripwood. Cut out one or both signs, whiteglue to stripwood. Glue to structure where you like. Give them a coat of black wash to weather. Roofing rolls: With small tweezers, tightly roll 1" long strips of leftover "tar-paper" strips and white-glue to hold in shape. Make six or seven; can use as a pallet load on loading dock. Paint barrels colors of choice (silver, green, etc.); "dirty" with Rust paint or Grimy Black using "dry-brush" method (dip brush in paint; wipe almost all of it off on a paper towel, leaving just a bit of color to rub onto surface. Practice on scrap piece until you get just a hint or smudge of color). Leave top off of one barrel, and fill with trash (sticks, papers, etc.) Page 13 of 15

14 Smokestack support wires: tie black thread (not supplied) around top of smokestack, and run to 3 points on structure roof as shown in Rear view. Affix with small dabs of GOO, using toothpick; also place a dab on thread at smokestack. Take as much slack out of thread as possible. Touch up GOO points (when dry) with Grimy Black if necessary. Add other details that you can think of: junk, weeds, clumps of brush, gravel, fine sawdust here and there, etc. Powdered, colored chalks can be brushed on roofs to enhance weathering; white and orange (rust) work well. Affix with light spray of Dull-Cote. More black wash may be applied anywhere you feel more weathering is needed. Your structure is now complete. Hope you have had fun, and are pleased with the end-product. Our model was glued to a plywood base, and scenery applied. We used finely sifted real dirt and Woodland Scenic ground covers, grass, clumps, and field grass. You might want to affix your structure to your layout, and scenic around it. Thanks again for buying White River Structures products. Look for other kits in our series at your hobby store, or write directly to us for information. Let us know what you think of our kits; send us a picture of your completed structure if you have one to spare. B. J. SCOTT LUMBER CO. B. J. SCOTT LUMBER CO. B. J. SCOTT LUMBER CO. Page 14 of 15

15 TOOLS AND MATERIALS LIST B J SCOTT LUMBER COMPANY The following items should be on hand to build this kit. Many of the items are common items that you may already have: * Floquil Paints: Concrete Earth Driftwood Stain Oak Stain Grimy Black Pullman Green Barrier (optional) Dio-Sol Thinner(3 bottles or larger can) Poly-S White (water-based) If you have unpainted version: Signal Red Depot Olive 2 empty I-oz. bottles * Spray can of Testor s Dull-Cote * Metal Model RR Scale Ruler * Masking Tape * Modeling Paint Brushes various sizes * Fine Sandpaper * Hobby Knife with several sharp #11 blades * Straight Pin (large head preferable) * Electric drill or Dremel Tool 3/16 and 3/32 drill bits * Micro Scale Kristal Kleer (optional) from your hobby shop * Lacquer Thinner for cleaning paintbrushes * Glass or metal ashtray -type container for glue * Colored Modeler s Chalks (optional) * Waxed Paper (I bought a package of 12" X 12" sheets from a baker's supply... really handy.) * Hydrocal (plaster) powder optional for ground detail * Yellow Carpenter's Wood Glue (any good brand) * White Glue (any good brand) * Walther s GOO (at hobby shop) * Isopropyl (Rubbing) Alcohol * Paper Towels * Toothpicks (round variety) * Sharp Scissors * Glass Medicine Dropper * Tweezers * Black Thread Page 15 of 15

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19 Main building LEFT end Main building FRONT wall sections

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