Two Faroese-style Shawls: Summer Shawlette & Comfort Shawl MATERIALS. by Sandi Wiseheart June 21, 2016

Transcription

1 Summer Shawlette & Comfort Shawlette by Sandi Wiseheart Two Faroese-style Shawls: Summer Shawlette & Comfort Shawl Updated & Expanded Instructions by Sandi Wiseheart June 2, 26 My Summer Shawlette pattern, from the Staff Projects section of Interweave Knits, Spring & Summer 2, proved immensely popular. Short, with a simple lace pattern on the back, it featured hidden shoulder shaping so the shawl would stay in place as the wearer moved. It has been a very popular download over the past seven years. Right from the start, however, knitters asked for a plainer, longer version. The resulting modified shawl became the Comfort Shawl, and has been knit hundreds of times as a prayer shawl to give to someone in need. I am honoured that these two patterns have brought comfort to so many. The shawl pictured is the original Summer Shawlette from the magazine, re-photographed by myself last year. The instructions here have been re-written and re-edited extensively, incorporating clarifications, corrections, and the suggestions of knitters the world over. Thus, the shape and placement of the panels generated by following this updated pattern will differ significantly from those in the shawl pictured, which was knit using the original pattern. New photos of several new sample shawls are coming soon to a PDF near you. MATERIALS YARN You may use either sock/fingering or DK/sport/weight yarn. The instructions are written as Sock (DK) where there are stitch counts or measurements. Just be sure that you are using needles that give you close to the stated gauge for that weight of yarn. GAUGE Sock (DK): 5 (4) sts per inch. Note that this is a looser-than-recommended gauge for each weight; you will need larger-than usual needles to get this gauge. This results in a shawl that is light yet warm, without stiffness or bulk. NEEDLES Use any size needle required to obtain the above gauge for your yarn. As a starting place: I knit the DK versions using a U.S. Size 6 (4.mm). For the sock yarn versions, I used a U.S. Size (4.5mm). Suggestion: Start swatching with a needle larger than recommended on the yarn label. If your gauge has too many sts per inch, then try again with a bigger needle. If your gauge has too few sts per inch, try again with a smaller needle. Use a circular needle at least 24 long for sock yarns; at least 32 long for DK yarns. Copyright 26 Sandi Wiseheart. All rights reserved.

2 2 NOTIONS Tapestry needle, stitch markers. FINISHED SIZE No matter what weight of yarn you use, if you stick to the gauge stated above, your shawl will be about 5.5 long down the center back and 6 around the lower edge, after blocking. STITCH GUIDE Little Arrowhead Lace: See chart below. (Multiple of 6 sts + ) Row : (RS) K, *yo, ssk, k, k2tog, yo, k; rep from *. Rows 2 and 4: (WS) Purl. Row 3: (RS) K, *k, yo, CDD, yo, k2; rep from *. Centered Double Decrease: (CDD) Sl 2 sts tog kwise (as though to k2tog), knit the next st, pass both slipped sts at once over knit st 2 sts decr d. Beginning Border: (BB) K2, p, k, p, k2. Worked over first sts of both RS and WS rows. Ending Border: (EB) K2, [p, k] twice, bring yarn to front as if to purl, sl last stitch pwise. Worked over last sts of both RS and WS rows. Notes The last st of every row is slipped purlwise with the yarn in front. This produces an attractive chain edging on the sides of the shawl. Work the decorative bind-off VERY loosely. Use a size larger needle if necessary. BOTH SHAWLS NECKBAND Both shawls begin with a garter stitch tab at center back of the neckband. Step-by-step photos are included for the tricky bits. Using the knitted method, loosely CO sts. Set-up Row: (RS) K2, p, k, p, k2. Rows - 5 (4): Work Ending Border over the sts on the needle (EB; see above). Row 52 (42): Repeat the Set-Up Row above.

3 3 Hold work so that your working needle (the one with the sts on it) is on the right, as shown in photo at left. " After working Row 52 (42). Arrow shows direction of rotation. Rotate the needle 9 degrees clockwise, so the long edge of the strip is at the top, and the CO edge is on the left. (see photo at right) After rotating. Stitches will be picked up in side chain sts along top of strip. # Holding needle and neck strip as shown at right, bring working yarn to front. Step : With yarn in front (wyf), insert right needle from back to front under both legs of next chain st at top of strip. These chain sts were the edge stitches of the rows worked previously. Step 2: Wrap yarn around needle as if to purl, draw up a purl st onto needle. Rep Steps and 2 25 (2) more times 26 (2) sts picked up from long side edge, 33 (28) sts total. With same side of work still facing you, turn piece again so that the CO edge is at the top. (see photo at left) " After second rotation. Picked up sts on long side edge are on the right, Row 52 (42) sts are at bottom, and CO edge is at top. Pick up sts evenly along CO edge 4 (35) sts total. Copyright 26 Sandi Wiseheart. All rights reserved.

4 4 Setting Up Side and Back Panels: Both Shawls Got your markers ready? Good. You ll need at least of them for this section. Row : (RS) Work BB over first sts, pm, knit until sts remain, pm, work EB over last sts. 4 (35) sts total; border sts on each end of needle, 26 (2) sts in center section. Row 2: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to m, sl m, EB. Row 3: BB, sl m, yo, *k, yo; rep from * to m, sl m, EB. 6 (5) sts total; border sts each end of needle, 53 (43) center sts. Row 4: BB, sl m, p (), pm, p3 (24), pm, p (), sl m, EB. Row 5: BB, sl m, [yo, k5 (4), yo; pm, k, sl m;] twice, yo, k29 (23), yo, [pm, k, sl m, yo, k5 (4), yo,] twice, sl m, EB. (6) sts total; 3 (25) Center Back Panel sts, (6) sts each for Left Front & Shoulder Panels, (6) sts each for Right Front & Shoulder Panels, sts BB, sts EB, st for each of these four sections: Left Front Shoulder, Left Back Shoulder, Right Front Shoulder, and Right Back Shoulder. NOTE: Row 5 is a really important row, because it is where you set up all the panels, borders, and shoulder sts. Below is a step-by-step, section-by-section guide to how the sts are distributed as you work them in Row 5 (counting from right to left, RS facing; remember you are working shawl upside down, from top to bottom!): Sock (DK). Section Instructions, Row 5 Increases/Decreases? Final St Count Left Side Border BB, sl m; sts Left Front (LF) Panel yo, k5 (4), yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row (6) sts Left Front Shoulder Stitch pm, k, sl m; st Left Shoulder (LS) Panel yo, k5 (4), yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row (6) sts Left Back (LB) Shoulder St pm, k, sl m; st Center Back (CB) yo, k29 (23), yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row 3 (25) sts Right Back (RB) Shoulder St pm, k, sl m; st Right Shoulder (RS) Panel yo, k5 (4), yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row (6) sts Right Front Shoulder St pm, k, sl m; st Right Front (RF) Panel yo, k5 (4), yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row (6) sts Right Side Border sl m, EB. sts

5 5 Main Section: Side and Back Panels Main Section: Comfort Shawl only: Work Rows 44 below as for the Summer Shawlette, omitting the lace work on the Center Back panel. Thus, on ODD-NUMBERED RS Rows 33 of the Comfort Shawl, work Center Back section as: Yo, knit to next marker, yo. Main Section: Summer Shawlette only: Begin to work the Little Arrowhead Lace pattern (see Stitch Guide above) across the CENTER BACK panel only, beginning with RS Row. (See Chart, page, for full row-by-row instructions.) Even-numbered Rows 6-32: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB Row : (see table below for stitch breakdowns for each section) BB, sl m, [yo, k to next m, yo; sl m, k, sl m;] twice, yo, work Row of Little Arrowhead Lace pattern across row (see Chart, page ), working section between dark lines 5 (4) times, yo, [sl m, k, sl m, yo, k to next m, yo,] twice, sl m, EB. I have written out Row below, section by section across the shawl, RS facing, left front to right front. I m trying to be clear, as this part seems to have confused some folks! Sock (DK). Shaded Numbers refer to stitch counts for Row only. Section Instructions, Row Increases/Decreases? Final St Count Left Side Border BB, sl m; sts Left Front (LF) Panel yo, k (6) to next m, yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row 9 (8) sts Left Front Shoulder Stitch sl m, k, sl m; st Left Shoulder (LS) Panel yo, k (6) to next m, yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row 9 (8) sts Left Back (LB) Shoulder St sl m, k, sl m; st Center Back (CB) yo, work Row of Little Arrowhead Lace pattern across row, working section in repeat box 5 (4) times, yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row For Summer Shawlette: Work Little Arrowhead Lace across as instructed at left. 33 (2) sts Right Back (RB) Shoulder St sl m, k, sl m; st Right Shoulder (RS) Panel yo, k (6) to next m, yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row 9 (8) sts Right Front Shoulder St sl m, k, sl m; st Right Front (RF) Panel yo, k (6) to next m, yo; 2 sts incr d each RS Row 9 (8) sts Right Side Border sl m, EB. sts After Row is completed, stitch counts are as follows: 8 (9) sts total; sts increased total. 33 (2) Center Back Panel sts, 9 (8) sts each for Left Front & Left Shoulder Panels, 9 (8) sts each for Right Front & Right Shoulder Panels, sts BB, sts EB, st for each: Left Front Shoulder, Left Back Shoulder, Right Front Shoulder, and Right Back Shoulder. Odd-numbered Rows 9-33: (RS) Rep Row, working section in repeat box on Little Lace Arrowhead chart one more time than in previous RS row. See table below for stitch counts. Copyright 26 Sandi Wiseheart. All rights reserved.

6 Summer Shawlette & Comfort Shawlette by Sandi Wiseheart sts incr d total on each RS row; each of the five panels (Left Front, Left Shoulder, Center Back, Right Shoulder, Right Front) increases by 2 sts. Stitch Counts: RS for Sock (DK) LS RS ROW TOTAL STS Beg (BB) LF Panel LF Sh St Panel LB Sh St CB Panel RB Sh St Panel RF Sh St RF Panel End (EB) 4 (35) 26 (2) 3 6 (5) 53 (43) 5 (6) (6) (6) 3 (25) (6) (6) 8 () 9 (8) 9 (8) 33 (2) 9 (8) 9 (8) 9 9 (8) () () 35 (29) () () (9) 3 (2) 3 (2) 3 (3) 3 (2) 3 (2) 3 () 5 (4) 5 (4) 39 (33) 5 (4) 5 (4) 5 2 () (6) (6) 4 (35) (6) (6) 3 (2) 9 (8) 9 (8) 43 (3) 9 (8) 9 (8) 9 4 (3) 2 (2) 2 (2) 45 (39) 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 5 (4) 23 (22) 23 (22) 4 (4) 23 (22) 23 (22) 23 6 (5) 25 (24) 25 (24) 49(43) 25 (24) 25 (24) 25 (6) 2 (26) 2 (26) 5 (45) 2 (26) 2 (26) 2 8 () 29(28) 29(28) 53 (4) 29 (28) 29 (28) 29 9 (8) 3 (3) 3 (3) 55 (49) 3 (3) 3 (3) 3 2(9) 33 (32) 33 (32) 5 (5) 33 (32) 33 (32) 33 2 (2) 35(34) 35(34) 59 (53) 35 (34) 35 (34) A Note on Shaping the Front Edges: Both Shawls As written, the shawl front edges gradually form a diagonal until a few inches above the lower edge. At that point, the front edges stop increasing and fall straight down and parallel to one another. Many people have asked how to adjust the shawl front edges (make it wider, narrower, pointier, straighter), so here s how: 6

7 To make the front edges wider and/or pointier (along a diagonal): o Work Row (above) on every RS row, and Row 8 on every WS row all the way until you bind off. To make the front edges straighter, and/or to stop increasing the length: o Work Row 43 (below) on every RS row, and Row 44 on every WS row until you bind off. In other words: Row increases the fronts by one st each side, lengthening the front edges gradually along a diagonal line. Row 43 maintains a steady stitch count, resulting in a straight-down-the-vertical front edge. Shoulder Shaping: Both Shawls We need to shift the 4 pairs of shoulder markers so that the yos to either side of the shoulder sts are WITHIN the markers instead of just outside them. This will make it easier to work CDDs at each of these locations. An alternative to moving the markers is to completely take off the 8 shoulder st markers, replacing them with removable clip-on markers attached to the central shoulder st between yos. This central st will become the center of the CDDs worked in this section. Make sure to keep moving the markers up to the current row every couple of rows as you work. Row 34: (WS; marker set-up row) BB, sl m, [p to st before next m (should be a yo), sl yo to RH needle, remove m, replace yo on LH needle, replace m, sl m, p the yo, then the single shoulder st after it, remove next m, p next st (yo), replace m.] Repeat section within brackets 3 more times, p to last m, sl m, EB. There are now three sts between each set of shoulder markers instead of one, like this: {yo, knit st, yo}. Row 35: (RS) BB, sl m, yo, [k to next m, sl m, yo, CDD, yo, sl m] four times, k to last m, yo, sl m, EB. Even-numbered Rows 36-42: BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB. Odd numbered Rows 3-4: Rep Row 35. Shaping Lower Front Edges: Both Shawls Row 43: (RS) BB, sl m, yo, k2tog, [k to next m, sl m, yo, CDD, yo, sl m] four times, k to 2 sts before last m, ssk, yo, sl m, EB. Row 44: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB. Rep Rows 43 and 44 until shawl is 2.5 shorter than desired length at center back, ending with a RIGHT side Row 43. Copyright 26 Sandi Wiseheart. All rights reserved.

8 Summer Shawlette & Comfort Shawlette by Sandi Wiseheart Your Choice, Both Shawls: Daisy Lace Lower Border, OR Plain Border Choose one and proceed to the corresponding section below. DAISY LACE BORDER Set-Up Row: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB. Remove all markers as you come to them except the very first (BB) and very last (EB) markers. Next 6 rows: Daisies Chart multiple of 6 + sts Work directly from the chart or use the written-out instructions below. Row : (RS) BB, sl m, k, *k2tog, yo, k, yo, ssk, k; rep from * to last m, sl m, EB. Rows 2, 4, and 6: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB. Row 3: BB, sl m, k, *yo, k, CDD, k, yo, k; rep from * to last m, sl m, EB. Row 5: BB, sl m, k, *ssk, yo, k, yo, k2tog, k; rep from * to last m, sl m, EB. Lower Edging For Daisy Border Row : (RS) BB, sl m, k2tog, p, *[k, p]; rep from * to last m, sl m, EB. 224 sts total; borders sts each side; 2 body sts. Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: (WS) BB, sl m, *p, k; rep from * to last m, sl m, EB. Rows 3, 5, and : (RS) BB, sl m, *k, p; rep from * to last m, sl m, EB. NOTE: I m going to use the phrase Work very loosely in this next bit. $ When I say work loosely here, I really, truly, sincerely mean it. $ If you have trouble working anything loosely, before you begin the BO row, change your needle size to a full mm higher than what you used for the rest of the work. $ Example: If you used a 5mm needle for the shawl body, switch to a size 6mm for the bind off. $ If you are using interchangeables, remember that you only need to change the RIGHT tip, the working needle, as this needle is the one determining the size of new sts. $ Ready? Good. 8

9 9 Bind-off Row: Working VERY loosely, sl st kwise to RHN, *k, insert LHN from left to right in the FRONT of the two sts on RHN so that RHN is in the back, wrap yarn around RHN, knit the two sts tog tbl. Rep from * to end. Cut yarn and pull through final stitch. Plain Border Set-Up Row: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB. Remove all markers as you come to them except the very first (BB) and very last (EB) markers. Rows, 3, and 5: (RS) BB, sl m, knit to last m, sl m, EB. Rows 2, 4, and 6: (WS) BB, sl m, purl to last m, sl m, EB. Note: It is, of course, always your choice whether to add a Daisy Border or not add a Daisy Border. Coming Soon: Summer s Comfort Shawl: Border Options, a small booklet showing you how to work in any lace pattern you wish. Included will be several different sample borders. Lower Edging for Plain Border Rows, 3, 5, and : (RS) BB, sl m, *k, p; rep from * to last m, sl m, EB. While working Row, if you have not done so already, remove all shoulder and panel markers as you come to them, leaving in place only the markers after the BB and before the EB. Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: (WS) BB, sl m, *p, k; rep from * to last m, sl m, EB. Bind-off Row: Working VERY loosely (see Notes in Daisy Border section), *k2tog tbl, return st just worked to left-hand needle; rep from * until st remains, BO last st and fasten off. Finishing: Both Shawls Weave in ends. Soak in no-rinse wool* for -5 minutes. Roll in towel; gently squeeze out excess water. Pin out to shape on blocking boards; let dry thoroughly before removing pins and shawl from blocking board. * I recommend SOAK. Not only is it an excellent product (I wash EVERYTHING in it, except for perhaps the kitties), but the creative mastermind behind SOAK is the one and only Jacqueline Sava. Jacqueline is Canadian, local-to-me, and AWESOME. Copyright 22, 26 Sandi Wiseheart. All rights reserved. Please do not sell items made from this pattern. Please contact me (wiseheart@gmail.com) before using this pattern in a class. Please play nicely and respect the work that went into this pattern. Copyright 26 Sandi Wiseheart. All rights reserved.

10 Other than that: Please feel free to make as many shawls from this pattern as you like to give to those who struggle, suffer, are courageous, give their hearts/wisdom freely, need a hug, or perhaps deserve a big warm smile. (This includes YOURSELF, by the way.) SUMMER SHAWLETTE Chart: Center Back Panel, Lace Insert Row of the chart below corresponds to Row of the Summer Shawlette (see page 5), and also corresponds to Row of Little Arrowhead Lace Chart (see page 2). Number of Times to Repeat Section Between the Dark Grey Lines Shawl Rows through 6: Work a total of 5(4) times. Rows through 28: Work section (6) times TOTAL. Rows 29 through 4: Work section 9 (8) times TOTAL. Rows 4 through 45: Work section () times TOTAL. Continue in this manner for any additional rows. See Stitch Key on page 2.