The Unique Sheep Green Sheep Fingering (100% organic superfine merino) 100g/500yd 1 300g Gradiance Shawl Set in the Taurus colorway
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1 Taurus by Ruth Roland This shawl is shaped like the Taurus symbol--a head and two horns. The head is worked first, from the center out, and then stitches are picked up and worked down for each horn. The left horn represents stability, a common Taurean characteristic, and the right horn the new growth of April and May. Finished Measurements (blocked) Back Circle Diameter: 25"/63.5cm Back Circle Circumference: 87.5"/199.5cm Panel Width: 20"/51cm Panel Length: 33"/76cm Yarn The Unique Sheep Green Sheep Fingering (100% organic superfine merino) 100g/500yd 1 300g Gradiance Shawl Set in the Taurus colorway Tools 1 set US5/3.75mm double-pointed needles or extra US5/3.75mm circular (optional, for circular beginning) 1 size US5/3.75mm 24"/60cm circular knitting needle or size to obtain gauge 12 Stitch markers Crochet hook size F or G for provisional cast-on Cotton waste yarn for provisional cast-on Tapestry/Darning needle
2 Gauge 28 sts and 36 rows = 4"/10cm unblocked in st st in the rnd 24 sts and 52 rows = 4"/10cm unblocked in garter st worked flat 24 sts and 36 rows = 4"/10cm blocked in garter st worked flat Pattern Notes Start at either end of the Gradiance set (#1 or #6), but for ease of pattern writing the first color used will always be referred to as Color 1. To determine needle size, find gauge in garter stitch with Color 3. Check by working the first 24 rnds of the shawl in Color 1 and measuring. There should be 7 sts and 9 rows per inch/2.5cm and each sector should be 2 1/2"/6.5cm long. The center hole should have a diameter of 3/4"/2cm, and the diameter of the entire circle should be 5 3/4"/15cm across. If exact gauge is not practical, go with the smaller gauge (more sts per inch/cm). Larger gauges may result in a shortage of some colors. Wraps do not usually need to be concealed when working short-rows in garter stitch, but I prefer the look of hidden wraps when blocked to gauge. Yarn overs can appear larger or smaller depending on whether they are worked before a decrease or a plain knit stitch. The yo-b instruction and corresponding p1-tbl should even them out. When changing colors on the straight panels, be sure to catch the unused color every 2 rows, even when the colors only change every 4 rows. Techniques Cable Cast-On: Make a slip knot and place it on the left-hand needle. Knit into the slip knot and place the new stitch on the left-hand needle. *Knit into the gap between the last two stitches on left-hand needle. Place new stitch on left-hand needle. Repeat from *.
3 Abbreviations 4/4 RC: Slip 4 stitches to cable needle and hold to back of work, knit next 4 sts, knit 4 from cable needle. 7/7 RC: Slip 7 stitches to cable needle and hold to back of work, knit next 7 sts, knit 7 from cable needle. B (make bud): Cable Cast On 3 stitches to left-hand needle, purl 4, pass 2nd, 3rd, and 4th stitches on right-hand needle over last stitch worked. cn: cable needle CO: cast on cw (conceal wrap): Use tip of knitting needle to take wrap over stitch to wrong side of work and onto left-hand needle. Knit wrap and stitch together without twisting stitches. dbl-dec (double decrease): Slip 2 stitches together as if to knit, knit next stitch on left-hand needle, pass the slipped stitches over the last stitch worked. k2tog: Knit the next two stitches together as if they were one stitch. k3tog: Knit the next three stitches together as if they were one stitch. kfb: Knit into the front and back of the stitch before taking it off the needle. L (Left-Leaning Increase): Lift the stitch two rows below the last stitch worked onto left-hand needle, and knit. m: stitch marker pm: place stitch marker p2o: pass two stitches and/or yarn overs over last st worked R (Right-Leaning Increase): Lift the stitch below the next stitch onto left-hand needle, and knit. sl: Slip stitch purlwise with yarn in front. ssk: Slip two stitches, one by one, as if to knit, then transfer them back to the left-hand needle and knit through the back loops. sssk: Slip three stitches, one by one, as if to knit, then transfer them back to the left-hand needle and knit through the back loops. tbl: through the back loop w&t (wrap and turn): With yarn in back, slip next stitch, bring yarn forward, return slipped stitch to lefthand needle, turn work. yo (yarn over): Wrap yarn around right-hand needle from front to back. yo-b (yarn over back to front): Wrap yarn around right-hand needle from back to front.
4 Shawl Circle Form a circle with one end of yarn in Color 1 and hold it in your left hand. * Insert needle into circle from front to back, catch the ball end of the yarn, and knit, then yo. Rep from * 5 more times, until 12 sts are on the needle (including yos). Distribute evenly over chosen needle(s), and pm. Rnds 1, 3, 5, & 8: Knit. Rnd 2: Kfb to end--24 sts. Rnd 4: * K1, L, k1, R, k2, rep from * to end--36 sts. Rnd 6: * K3, L, k2, R, K1, rep from * to end--48 sts. Rnd 7: * K4, pm, rep from * to end. Rnd 9: * R, k to m, L, sl m, rep from * to end. (24 sts inc'd) Rnds 10 & 11: Knit Rep Rnds 9-11, 4 more times for a total of 5 reps--168 sts (14 per section). Rep Rnd 9 once more--192 sts (16 per section). Next Rnd: K, removing markers, to 8 sts from end, place new marker for end of rnd. Rep Chart A around, Rnds Next Rnd: * [K1, yo] 16x, pm, rep from * to end--384 sts. Rnd 1: * R, k to m, L, sl m, R, k1, [yo, k2tog] to 1 st before m, k1, L, sl m, rep from * to end (4 sts inc'd each rep, 24 sts inc'd per rnd). Rnds 2, 4, & 6: Knit. Rnds 3 & 5: * K to m, sl m, k1, [k2tog, yo] to 1 st before m, k1, sl m, rep from * to end. After the first Rnd 6 there will be 408 sts (34 per section). Repeat Rnds 1-6, 2 more times for a total of 3 reps sts (38 per section). With waste yarn and crochet hook, chain 15 and fasten off. Slide knitting needle under 9 of the bumps behind the chain, starting at the beginning of the chain. Prep Row (WS): With Color 2 and being sure to always work into the right-hand leg of the stitch so as not to twist, k9. Row 1: K2, work the first 6 sts of Chart B, then attach Color 2 piece to Circle between sections and with an
5 eyelet section on top using k2tog-tbl (last st plus one st from shawl body), turn. Row 2: Sl1, work Row 2 of same sts starting with st #6, k2, turn. Row 3: Sl1, k1, work Row 3 to last st before shawl body, k2tog-tbl, turn. Continue working this side of Chart B as above (RS rows: Sl1, k1, work chart row, k2tog-tbl. WS rows: Sl1, work chart row, k2.) through Row 38. This will create a narrow slipped stitch garter border with every RS row attached to a live stitch from the shawl body. On Rows 23 and 37, work the Left Cross as follows: Sl1 to cn and hold in front, p2, sl st from cn to left-hand needle, k2tog-tbl. Rep Rows 1-38 of Chart B to end of rnd, 24 times total. Unzip waste yarn from end of chain, putting live sts on knitting needle. Graft live sts in patt, work 3-needle bind-off, or bind off both sides and sew together. Left Panel With Color 3 and WS facing, starting at the edging seam, pick up and knit 99 sts, one in each consecutive slipped stitch of the edging. Short Row 1 (RS): K1, [yo, k1, p2o] 8x, k1, sssk, k14, w&t. Rows 2 & 4: Knit. Short Row 3: Sl1, k1, sssk, k to 1 st before wrap, w&t. Repeat Rows 3 & 4, 1 more time for a total of 3 wraps--85 sts. Row 5: Sl1, k1, ssk, k to end of row, working cw if desired at each wrap--84 sts. Work next 17 rows with Color 2: Short Row 6: Sl1, k38, w&t. Rows 7, 9, 11, 13, 15, & 17: Knit. Short Row 8: Sl1, k30, w&t. Short Row 10: Sl1, k23, w&t. Short Row 12: Sl1, k17, w&t. Short Row 14: Sl1, k12, w&t. Short Row 16: Sl1, k8, w&t. Row 18: With Color 3, sl1, k to end of row, cw if desired. Break Color 2.
6 Short Row 19: Sl1, k25, w&t. Rows 20, 22, 24, 26, & 28: Knit. Short Row 21: Sl1, k18, w&t. Short Row 23: Sl1, k12, w&t. Short Row 25: Sl1, k7, w&t. Short Row 27: Sl1, k2, w&t. Row 29: Sl1, knit to end of row, cw if desired. Rows 30-38: Sl1, k to end. Discontinue slipped stitch edge. Row 39: K6, * [yo, k1] 5x, k14, [yo, k1] 5x, rep from * 2 more times (to last 6 sts), k sts. Row 40: K6, * [yo, k2tog] 5x, k14, [yo, k2tog] 5x, rep from * to last 6 sts, k6. Work Chart C as follows: Row 1: K6, * [yo, k2tog] 5x, work Row 1 of Chart C, [yo, k2tog] 5x, rep from * to last 6 sts, k6. Next Row: K6, * [yo, k2tog] 5x, continue Chart C, [yo, k2tog] 5x, rep from * to last 6 sts, k6. * Work Rows 1-30 of Chart C in Color 3, Rows in Color 4, Rows in Color 3, Rows in Color 4, and Rows in Color 3. Work to Row 48 in Color 4. Rep from * with Colors 4 & 5, then again with Colors 5 & 6. Complete Left Panel in Color 6 using Chart C as follows: Rows 1 & 2: Work in patt to 2 sts from end, w&t. Rows 3-9: Work in patt to 1 st from last wrap, w&t. Row 10: K2, work in patt to 1 st from last wrap, w&t. Rows 11-21: K2, work in patt to 2 sts from last wrap, w&t. Row 22: K12, pm, [yo, k2tog] 10x, pm, k14, pm, [yo, k2tog] 10x, pm, k12, w&t. Rows 23-32: K to m, [yo, k2tog] 10x, k14, [yo, k2tog] 10x, k to 2 sts from last wrap, w&t. Rows 33 & 34: K2, [yo, k2tog] to m, k14, [yo, k2tog] to 2 sts from last wrap, w&t. Rep Rows 33 & 34, 10 more times, until 14 sts remain between wraps.
7 Rows 35 & 36: K to end, cw if desired. Rows 37, 39, 41, & 43: K6, ssk, k to last 8 sts, k2tog, k6 (2 sts dec'd)--106 sts. Rows 38, 40, 42, & 44: Knit. Row 45: Sl1, yo, p2o, [k1, yo, p2o] to last st, return previous st to left-hand needle, ssk. Right Panel With Color 3 and WS facing, starting at the last picked-up st from the Left Panel and leaving a 4"/10cm tail, pick up and knit 91 sts, one in each consecutive slipped stitch of the edging, and turn to RS. Row 1 (RS): Sl1, k to 5 sts from end, k3tog, k2. Short Row 2: Sl1, k16, w&t. Rows 3 & 5: K to 5 sts from end, k3tog, k2. Short Row 4: Sl1, k to 1 st before wrap, w&t. Repeat Rows 4 & 5, 1 more time for a total of 3 wraps. Next Row: Sl1, k to end of row, working a cw if desired--85 sts. Work Rows 6-37 as for Left Panel, noting that Row 6 is now a RS row. Discontinue slipped stitch edge. Row 38 (RS): K6, pm, [yo, k2tog] 8x, yo, k1, yo-b, * pm, k1, p7, k1-tbl, p5, k1, pm, [yo, k2tog] 2x, [yo, k1] 5x, [yo, k2tog] 2x, yo-b, rep from *, pm, k6--99 sts. Row 39 & 41: K6, * p1-tbl, p19, k7, p1-tbl, k5, p1, rep from *, p1-tbl, p18, k6. Row 40: K6, * yo, k3tog, [yo, k2tog] 8x, yo-b, k1, p7, k1-tbl, p5, k1, rep from *, yo, k3tog, [yo, k2tog] 8x, yo-b, k6. Rep Rows 40 & 41, 3 more times for a total of 4 times and a 10-row column of twisted sts. Work Chart B as follows: Row 1 (& all RS rows): K6, * yo, k3tog, [yo, k2tog] 8x, yo-b, work Chart B, rep from *, yo, k3tog, [yo, k2tog] 8x, yo-b, k6. Row 2 (& all WS rows): K6, * p1-tbl, p18, work Chart B, rep from *, p1-tbl, p18, k6. * Work Rows 1-22 of Chart B in Color 3, Rows in Color 4, Rows in Color 3, Rows in Color 4, and Rows in Color 3. Work to Row 44 in Color 4.
8 Rep from * with Colors 4 & 5, then again with Colors 5 & 6. With Color 6, rep Row 44, 50 more times, as follows: Rows 1 & 2: Work in patt to 2 sts from end, w&t. Rows 3-10: Work in patt to 1 st from last wrap, w&t. Row 11: K1, k2tog, yo, work in patt to 4 sts from last wrap, yo, k2, w&t. Row 12: Work in patt to 2 sts from last wrap, w&t. Rows 13-26: Rep Rows 11 & 12, 7 more times for a total of 8 times. Row 27: K1, k2tog, yo, work in patt to 5 sts from last wrap, yo, k1, k2tog, w&t. Rows 28-42: Rep Row 12 only, 15 times. Rows 43-48: Rep Rows 11 & 12, 3 times. Row 49: Rep Row sts remain between wraps. Row 50 & 51: K to end, cw if desired--100 sts. Rows 52, 54, 56, & 58: Knit. Rows 53, 55, & 57: K6, ssk, k to last 8 sts, k2tog, k6 (2 sts dec'd)--92 sts. Row 59: Sl1, yo, k1, p2o, [yo, k1, p2o] to last st, return previous st to left-hand needle, ssk. Finishing Using Color 3 tail, sew a very short seam (2 or 3 sts) to close the gap between the tops of the two panels at the back neck. Weave in all ends. Block to desired measurements. Ruth Roland (kangath on Ravelry) is a violinist, composer, teacher, and lyricist as well as a knitting designer. The possibilities of yarn, color, and stitch pattern are so thrilling they may wake her up at night, or make her squeal aloud. She especially enjoys interesting constructions and reversible knits. She lives in Baton Rouge with her husband and two children, and her blog is at Kangath Knits. A big thanks goes to B. Keith Ryder for his heroic test knitting.
9 Chart A (32 sts) Rnds 1 & 22: Purl. Rnds 2 &21: Knit. Rnds 3, 6, 17, & 20: P20, k8, p4 Charts Rnds 4-5, 7-9, 11, 13, 15-16, & 18-19: P4, k8, p8, k8, p4. Rnds 10 & 14: P4, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, p8, k8, p4. Rnd 12: P4, k2, yo, ssk, k2tog, yo, k2, p8, 4/4 RC, p4. Chart B (stitch count varies, start with 15 stitches) Row 1 (RS): K1, p5, k1-tbl, p7, k1. Row 2: P1, k7, p1-tbl, k2, p1, k2, p1. Row 3: K1, p2, R, k1, p2, k1-tbl, p3, B, p1, B, p1, k1--16 sts. Row 4: P1, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, k3, p1-tbl, k2, p2, k2, p1. Row 5: K1, p2, R, k2, p2, k1-tbl, p1, B, p2, B, p2, k1--17 sts. Row 6: P1, k2, sl1, k2, sl1, k1, p1-tbl, k2, p3, k2, p1. Row 7: K1, p2, R, k3, p2, k1-tbl, B, p1, B, p1, k1-tbl, p2, k1--18 sts. Row 8: P1, k2, p1-tbl, k1, sl1, k1, sl1, p1-tbl, k2, p4, k2, p1. Row 9: K1, p2, R, k4, p2, k1-tbl, p1, B, p2, k1, p2, k1--19 sts. Row 10: P1, k2, p1, k2, sl1, k1, p1-tbl, k2, p5, k2, p1. Row 11: K1, p2, R, k5, L, p2, k1-tbl, p1, sl1 to cn and hold to front, p1, k1 from cn, sl1 to cn and hold to back, k1, p1 from cn, p2, k1--21 sts. Row 12: P1, k3, p2, k2, p1-tbl, k2, p7, k2, p1. Row 13: K1, p2, k2, yo, dbl-dec, yo, k2, p2, k1-tbl, p2, k2tog, p3, k1--20 sts. Row 14: P1, k3, p1, k2, p1-tbl, k2, p7, k2, p1. Row 15: K1, p2, ssk, yo, dbl-dec, yo, k2tog, p2, k1-tbl, p1, k2tog, p3, k1--17 sts. Row 16: P1, k3, p1, k1, p1-tbl, k2, p5, k2, p1. Row 17: K1, p2, k1, dbl-dec, k1, p2, sl2 to cn and hold to back, k1, p2 from cn, p3, k1--15 sts. CHART B Row 18: P1, k5, p1-tbl, k3, p1, k3, p1. Row 19: K1, p3, sl1 to cn and hold to front, p1, k1 from cn, p2, k1-tbl, p5, k1. Row 20: P1, k5, p1-tbl, k2, p1, k4, p1. Row 21: K1, p4, sl1 to cn and hold to front, p1, k1 from cn, p1, k1-tbl, p5, k1.
10 Row 22: P1, k2, p1, k2, p1-tbl, k1, p1, k5, p1. Row 23: K1, p1, B, p1, B, p1, sl1 to cn and hold to front, p2, k1 from cn, p2, k1, L, p2, k1--16 sts. Row 24: P1, k2, p2, k2, p1-tbl, k3, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, p1. Row 25: K1, p2, B, p2, B, p1, k1-tbl, p2, k2, L, p2, k1--17 sts. Row 26: P1, k2, p3, k2, p1-tbl, k1, sl1, k2, sl1, k2, p1. Row 27: K1, p2, k1-tbl, p1, B, p1, B, k1-tbl, p2, k3, L, p2, k1--18 sts. Row 28: P1, k2, p4, k2, p1-tbl, sl1, k1, sl1, k1, p1-tbl, k2, p1. Row 29: K1, p2, k1, p2, B, p1, k1-tbl, p2, k4, L, p2, k1--19 sts. Row 30: P1, k2, p5, k2, p1-tbl, k1, sl1, k2, p1, k2, p1. Row 31: K1, p2, sl1 to cn and hold to front, p1, k1 from cn, sl1 to cn and hold to back, k1, p1 from cn, p1, k1-tbl, p2, R, k5, L, p2, k1--21 sts. Row 32: P1, k2, p7, k2, p1-tbl, k2, p2, k3, p1. Row 33: K1, p3, ssk, p2, k1-tbl, p2, k2, yo, dbl-dec, yo, k2, p2, k1--20 sts. Row 34: P1, k2, p7, k2, p1-tbl, k2, p1, k3, p1. Row 35: K1, p3, ssk, p1, k1-tbl, p2, ssk, yo, dbl-dec, yo, k2tog, p2, k1--17 sts. Row 36: P1, k2, p5, k2, p1-tbl, k1, p1, k3, p1. Row 37: K1, p3, sl1 to cn and hold to front, p2, k1 from cn, p2, k1, dbl-dec, k1, p2, k1--15 sts. Row 38: P1, k3, p1, k3, p1-tbl, k5, p1. Row 39: K1, p5, k1-tbl, p2, sl1 to cn and hold to back, k1, p1 from cn, p3, k1. Row 40: P1, k4, p1, k2, p1-tbl, k5, p1. Row 41: K1, p5, k1-tbl, p1, sl1 to cn and hold to back, k1, p1 from cn, p4, k1. Row 42: P1, k5, p1, k1, p1-tbl, k5, p1. Row 43: K1, p5, sl2 to cn and hold to back, k1, p2 from cn, p5, k1. Row 44: P1, k7, p1-tbl, k5, p1. Chart C (14 stitches) Rows 1, 5, 17-19, 23, 25, 27, 29, 31, 33, 37, 39, 41, 43, 45, & 47-48: Knit. Rows 2-4, 6, 20-22, 24, 26, 28, 30, 32, 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, & 46: Purl. Rows 7, 9, 11, 13, & 15: * K2, k2tog, yo, yo, ssk, rep from *, k2. Rows 8, 10, 12, 14, & 16: * P4, k1, p1, rep from *, p2. Row 35: 7/7 RC.
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