Nepali Bird Vest. Carol Sunday

Transcription

1 Nepali Bird Vest Carol Sunday Sizes of finished vest: 30 (34, 38½, 42½, 47, 51, 55)" bust circumference; shown in size 34" with 0 ease. Suggested ease: -3 to +1". Make cropped (right) or tunic length (pg 7). Inspired by traditional garments from the Himalayas, which seem designed for comfort whether trekking or meditating or anything in between. Cord ties are often used in place of buttons or zippers a softer, gentler kind of closure. Perching birds swirl to form a subtle damask design. Yarn: Sunday Knits 5 ply yarns (light worsted weight, 50 grams = 137 yds) in Nirvana (merino cashmere), Eden (merino), Angelic (merino angora) or Brigadoon (merino tweed): 5 (6, 7, 8, 8, 9, 10) skeins. Shown in Nirvana ocean (right) and earth (pg 7). Substitute any worsted weight yarn that works nicely to gauge: 670 (780, 880, 990, 1100, 1210, 1310) yds. Gauge: 19 sts and 26 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch with size 7 needles, after blocking. Needles: US 7 (4.5 mm) - one pair OR one 32" (80 cm) circular needle (circs), US 6 (4 mm) circs for lapel; US 5 (3.75 mm) & US 7 (4.5 mm) double-pointed needles; US 4 (3.5 mm) crochet hook. Adjust needle size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge. Notions: Stitch markers, locking stitch markers, stitch holders or waste yarn, tapestry needle. Techniques used: Reading charts (knit & purl stitches only), I-cord & attached I-cord, pick up and knit, 3-needle bind off, crochet chain and slip stitch for closures. Pattern includes: Written instructions, Nepali Bird pattern in charted format only, glossary, schematic. Construction: Vest is worked flat in one piece to the underarms, then front and back are worked separately to shoulder and joined using 3-needle bind off. Stitches are picked up along upper front and back neck for a Nehru-style lapel. I-cord ties are knitted separately then joined with vest, and underarms are trimmed with an attached I-cord. Crocheted loops are added at sides for securing ties. Nepali Bird Vest v

2 Nepali Bird Vest INSTRUCTIONS FOR VEST Legend I-cord ties - make 2 With smaller dpns cast on 3 sts. Row 1: K3. *Row 2: Without turning fabric, slide sts to other end of ndl, bring yarn behind to begin new row; k3. Rep from* until I-cord meas 14-15". Cut yarn. Leave sts on dpn or holders and set aside to be attached later. knit on RS, purl on WS purl on RS, knit on WS 20-st repeat 36-row repeat Repeat Stitches 2-21 Vest bottom edge With larger needles CO 171 (191, 211, 231, 251, 271, 291) sts. WS: P3, knit to last 3 sts, p3. RS: K3, p1, knit to last 4 sts, p1, k3. Rep previous two rows one more time. Next row - WS: P3, k1, purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Begin pattern Note: Markers may be placed for each repeat of border pattern. Row 1 - RS: K3, p1, k1 (edge sts), work Nepali Bird Chart (patt) Row 1 to last 5 sts, k1, p1, k3 (edge sts). Row 2 - WS: P3, k1, p1 (edge sts), work patt Row 2 to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p3 (edge sts). Cont with edge sts and patt until piece meas 10¾ (11, 11¼, 11½, 11½, 11½, 11½)" for tunic length (pg 7) or subtract 5" for a cropped length (cover), ending after a RS WS: Cont as est work 50 (55, 60, 65, 70, 75, 80) sts, pm for side, work 71 (81, 91, 101, 111, 121, 131) sts, pm for side, place 3rd marker to leave in place for measuring later, work to end. Slip 2 side markers every Side shaping Note: Increases are worked on the fronts only, and always in stockinette sections so that any birds worked near the side edges will maintain their shape. RS - Inc Row: Work as est to last knit st before side m, k1, LLI, sl m when encountered, cont in patt to next side m, sl m, work if necessary to next knit st, RLI, work as est to end. 2 sts inc'd. Rep Inc Row every 4 th row 4 more times. 181 (201, 221, 241, 261, 281, 301) sts. Work WS Note: Read chart from right to left on odd rows and left to right on even rows Repeat Rows

3 Attach I-cord ties With RS facing and working yarn in back, place sts for one I-cord onto LH needle; bring working yarn behind I-cord sts, ready to work next Next Row - RS: K2, ssk, sl these 3 sts back to LN. Next Row - RS: K2, ssk, sl these 3 sts back to LN. Next Row - RS: K2, ssk, p1, k1, work in patt to last 5 sts, work edge sts as est. With WS facing and working yarn in front, place sts for remaining I-cord onto LH needle; bring working yarn in front of I-cord sts, ready to work next Next Row - WS: P2, p2tog, sl these 3 sts back to LN. Next Row - WS: P2, p2tog, sl these 3 sts back to LN. Next Row - WS: P2, p2tog, k1, p1, work in patt to last 5 sts, work edge sts as est. Continue side shaping & begin front shaping Note: Continue in pattern as far as possible while decreasing. Front Dec + Side Inc Row - RS: K3, p1, k2tog, work to last knit st before side m, k1, LLI, sl m when encountered, cont in patt to next side m, sl m, work if necessary to next knit st, RLI, work to last 6 sts, ssk, p1, k3. 2 front sts dec'd, 2 side sts inc'd, no net change in stitch count. WS: P3, k1, p1, work to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p3. Front Dec Row - RS: K3, p1, k2tog, work to last 6 sts, ssk, p1, k3. 2 front edge sts dec'd. WS: P3, k1, p1, work to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p3. Rep previous 4 rows 2 more times; then rep Front Dec + Side Inc Row one more time. 175 (195, 215, 235, 255, 275, 295) sts. Work WS Divide for Fronts and Back Note: See Underarm bind-off tip (Glossary) for a tidy way to start this bind-off. Next Row - RS: K3, p1, k2tog, work patt to 4 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) sts before side m, BO 8 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24) sts marking underarm center, work to 4 (6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 12) sts before next m, BO 8 (12, 14, 16, 18, 20, 24) sts marking underarm center, work to last 6 sts, ssk, p1, k3. 63 (69, 77, 85, 93, 101, 107) sts rem for back and 47 (50, 54, 58, 62, 66, 69) sts for each front. Place sts for back and right front onto waste yarn or holder. Make note of last patt row worked. Place one marker on the back and one on each front along this row; place well in from edges and leave in place as guides for measuring later. LEFT FRONT Next Row - WS: Work as est to last st, k1 tbl; break yarn. Underarm I-cord A section of attached I-cord is worked from center of underarm to Left Front armhole edge, which will be continued as edge trim. With new yarn and larger dpns, cast on 3 sts, then, with RS facing pick up 1 underarm st just left of marker near center of left underarm; with yarn in back, slide sts to other end of dpn, ready to work a RS Remove underarm marker. *RS: K2, ssk, pick up next underarm st, slide sts to other end of dpn, ready to work next RS Rep from * for each underarm st, slip 4 sts onto working needle with left front sts. RS: K2, ssk, p1, k2tog, work in patt to to last 6 sts, ssk, p1, k3. 48 (51, 55, 59, 63, 67, 70) sts. WS: Work as est to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p3. Armhole shaping Notes: Continue in pattern as far as possible while shaping armholes. Continue front decreases through remainder of Left Front. Setup for lapel will take place before armhole shaping is completed. Please read ahead. Armhole Dec Row - RS: K3, p1, k2tog, work patt and front dec as est. 1 st dec'd at armhole edge. While cont front dec's and patt, rep Armhole Dec Row every RS row 0 (1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 12) more time(s), then every 4 th row three times, and AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2¾ (3, 3¼, 3½, 3½, 3¾, 3¾)" from underarm bind-off row, on the next RS row set up for lapel as follows: Set up for lapel RS: Work as est to last 6 sts, ssk, p1, place 3 rem sts onto waste yarn or holder for lapel; make note of current patt WS: P2, work as est to end. Establish new front shaping New Front Dec Row - RS: Work as est to last 3 sts, ssk, k1. 1 st dec'd at front. WS: P2, work as est to end. Note: For some sizes shoulder shaping may begin before front decreases have been completed and will take place AT THE SAME TIME. Please read ahead. 3

4 Cont as est, working any rem Armhole Dec Rows for your size, and working New Front Dec Row every RS row until 14 (14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts rem. AT THE SAME TIME, beg shoulder shaping when armhole measures 7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10½)" from underarm AND no more than 19 (19, 20, 20, 20, 20, 20) sts rem, ending after a RS row; if more sts rem, then cont dec's as est until stitch count meets target. Make note of last pattern row worked. Begin shoulder shaping and cont front decreases if necessary Short row 1 - WS: Work as est to last 3 sts, turn and mark loop (TM, see Glossary - Short Rows); Short row 2 and all RS short rows: Work as est to end. *Short row 3: Work to 2 sts before before previous turn, TM; Rep from * four more times, then work a RS Next row - WS: Work to end of row resolving short rows as for a WS row (see Glossary - Short Rows. Place rem 14 (14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts onto waste yarn or st holder. BACK Transfer sts for back to larger needles, ready to work a RS Underarm I-cord With larger dpns and RS facing, beg at center of left underarm pick up 1 underarm st just right of center, then pick up 3 sts from I-cord cast-on; with yarn in back, slide sts to other end of dpn, ready to work next RS With new yarn and larger dpns cast on 3 sts, then, with RS facing pick up 1 underarm st just left of marker near center of right underarm; with yarn in back, slide sts to other end of dpn, ready to work next RS *RS: K2, ssk, pick up next underarm st, slide sts to other end of dpn, ready to work next RS Rep from * for each underarm st, slip 4 sts onto working needle with left front sts. RS: K2, ssk, p1, k2tog, work in patt to to last 6 sts, ssk, p1, k3. 67 (73, 81, 89, 97, 105, 111) sts. WS: P3, k1, p1, work to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p3. Armhole shaping Note: Continue in patt as far as possible while decreasing. Armhole Dec Row - RS: K3, p1, k2tog, work as est to last 6 sts, ssk, p1, k3. 2 sts dec'd. Rep Dec Row every RS row 0 (1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 12) more times, then every 4 th row three times. 59 (63, 67, 71, 75, 77, 79) sts rem. Work even until back meas approx 7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10½)" from underarm, ending on row noted in Left Front. Shoulder shaping Next 2 rows: Work patt as far as possible to 5 sts before end, TM; *Next 2 rows: Work to 3 sts before previous turn, TM; Rep from * one more time. Next row - WS: Work to end of row resolving short rows as for a WS RS: Work to end of row resolving short rows as for a RS Place sts on holder or waste yarn. RIGHT FRONT Transfer sts for right front to larger needles, ready to work a RS *RS: K2tog, k2, slide sts to other end of dpn, ready to work next RS row, then pick up next underarm st. Rep from * for each underarm st. Next row - RS: K2tog, k2, turn work and slip 3 sts onto working needle with back sts, ready to work a WS Next row - WS: P3, k1 tbl, p1, work next row of patt to last 2 sts, p1, k1 tbl. Underarm I-cord With larger dpns and RS facing, beg at center of right underarm pick up 1 underarm st just right of marker near center of right underarm, then pick up 3 sts from I-cord cast-on; with yarn in back, slide sts to other end of dpn, ready to work next RS Remove underarm marker. *RS: K2tog, k2, slide sts to other end of dpn, ready to work next RS row, then pick up next underarm st. Rep from * for each underarm st. 4

5 Next row - RS: K2tog, k2, turn work and slip 3 sts onto working needle with back sts, ready to work a WS Next row - WS: P3, k1 tbl, work next row of patt to last 5 sts, p1, k1, p3. Armhole shaping Notes: Continue in pattern as far as possible while decreasing. Continue front decreases throughout Right Front; Setup for lapel will take place before armhole shaping is completed. Please read ahead. Armhole Dec Row - RS: Work front dec and patt as est to last 6 sts, ssk, p1, k3. 1 st dec'd at armhole edge. While cont front dec's and patt, rep Armhole Dec Row every RS row 0 (1, 3, 5, 7, 10, 12) more time(s), then every 4 th row three times, and AT THE SAME TIME when piece measures 2¾ (3, 3¼, 3½, 3½, 3¾, 3¾)" from underarm bind-off row, having just worked row noted from left front lapel placement, set up for lapel as follows: Set up for lapel WS: Work as est to last 4 sts, p1, place 3 rem sts onto waste yarn or st holder for lapel. Establish new front shaping New Front Dec Row - RS: K1, k2tog, work as est to end. 1 st dec'd at neck edge. WS: Work as est to last 2 sts, p2. Note: For some sizes shoulder shaping may begin before front decreases have been completed and will take place AT THE SAME TIME. Please read ahead. Cont as est, working any rem Armhole Dec Rows for your size, and working New Front Dec Row every RS row until 14 (14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts rem. AT THE SAME TIME, beg shoulder shaping when armhole meas approx 7¾ (8¼, 8¾, 9¼, 9¾, 10¼, 10½)" ending 1 row from the patt row noted during Left Front Begin shoulder shaping and cont front decreases if necessary Short row 1 - RS: K1, k2tog, work as est to last 3 sts, TM; Short row 2 and all WS short rows: Work as est to end. *Short row 3: K1, k2tog, work to 2 sts before before previous turn, TM; Rep from * four more times, then work a WS Next row - RS: Work to end of row resolving short rows as for a RS 14 (14, 15, 15, 15, 15, 15) sts rem. Join shoulders 5 Transfer sts held for Back to larger needles. With RS's together, beg at right armhole edge, and using 3-needle method, BO all Right Front sts with corresponding Back sts, then BO 31 (35, 37, 41, 45, 47, 49) Back sts, then transfer Left Front sts to larger needles and with RS's together, using 3-needle method, BO all rem sts. LAPEL With RS facing and smaller circs, place 3 held sts from Right Front onto RN, pick up and knit 1 st per row along Right Front edge, then stitch for stitch along Back neckline, then 1 st per row along Left Front edge to holder, return 3 sts from holder onto RN. Next row - WS: Sl 2 wyf, p1, k1 tbl, purl to lasts 4 sts, k1 tbl, p1, sl 1 wyf, leave last st on RN unworked. Next row - RS: K2, p1, work patt Row 1 as far as possible to last 4 sts, noting number of last patt st worked, p1, k2, sl 1 wyb. WS: P3, k1 (edge sts), beg with patt st noted from previous row, work patt Row 2 to last 4 sts (ending with St 1), k1, p3 (edge sts). RS: K3, p1 (edge sts), cont patt as est to last 4 sts, p1, k3 (edge sts). Cont with patt and edge sts est through patt Row 8. Next row - RS: K3, p1, knit to last 4 sts, p1, k3. WS: P3, k1, purl to last 4 sts, k1, p3. Right I-cord bind off Short row 1 - RS: K1, sl 1 wyb, turn; Short row 2 - WS: P2. Switch to larger right needle *I-cord Bind-off Row - RS: K2, ssk, sl 3 sts back to LN, ready to work a RS row; Rep from * to center of back neck. Slide all lapel sts to other end of circs; join yarn ready to work a WS Left I-cord bind off Short row 1 - WS: P1, sl 1 wyf, turn; Short row 2 - RS: K2. Switch to larger right needle *I-cord Bind-off Row - WS: P2, p2tog, sl 3 sts back to LN, ready to work a WS row; Rep from * until 7 sts rem; 3 sts each from left and right cord and 1 unworked st. Beg at outer edge, graft or sew left and right sides together, working the final odd st together with the st beside it. FINISHING Weave in ends. Block to measurements.

6 Closure loops Locate position at side of Left Front where tie should be secured (typically just above the beg of side shaping). With a locking st marker, mark on the RS of fabric. Rep for Right Front, placing marker on WS of fabric. With crochet hook, make a sl st into fabric at marker, ch for 1", then sl st into fabric approx ¾" away from starting point, turn and sl st in each ch st to beg. Draw yarn through final stitch and secure to WS of fabric. Rep for second loop. GLOSSARY ABBREVIATIONS beg: begin BO: bind off ch: chain stitch (crochet) circs: circular needles CO: cast on dec(d): decrease(d) dpn(s): double-pointed needle(s) est: established, or in the same manner or sequence as was established in previous rows. inc(d): increase(d) k: knit k2tog: knit 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased) LLI (left lifted increase): with left-hand needle, pick up stitch 2 rows below stitch just worked, and knit into it (1 stitch increased) LN: left needle m: marker meas: measures p: purl p2tog: purl 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased) pm: place marker rem: remaining rep: repeat RLI (right lifted increase): with left-hand needle, pick up stitch in row below next stitch and knit into it (1 stitch increased) RN: right needle RS: right side of fabric sl: slip sl st: slip stitch (crochet) ssk: slip 2 stitches individually knitwise, insert left needle knitwise into 2 slipped stitches to knit those 2 stitches together (1 stitch decreased) st(s): stitch(es) tbl: through back loop TM: turn fabric and mark loop (see Techniques - wrapless short rows) WS: wrong side of fabric 6 wyb: with yarn in back wyf: with yarn in front TECHNIQUES Underarm bind-off tip This technique will eliminate the gap between the first bound-off stitch and the stitch before it: Work to last st before bind off; kfb, k1, pass 2 nd st on RN over 1 st st (this does NOT count as a bound-off st); now proceed to bind off prescribed number of sts. Wrapless short rows Cut a short piece of yarn in the same or lighter weight as your working yarn, but in a contrasting color (CC). Work to turn point. Turn & mark loop (TM) by placing the CC yarn around (folded over) the working yarn, allowing it to get caught up in the working yarn before working remaining stitches. It s there merely as a place holder. (For a series of short rows, the same piece of CC yarn can lay loosely through all of the turn points.) To resolve short rows work to turn point, gently pull both ends of the CC yarn to reveal a loop in the working yarn, insert left needle, work loop together with next stitch as follows: on RS rows k2tog, or on WS rows ssp; remove CC yarn. (Also see Resources) 3-needle bind off With right sides facing and needles parallel, insert a 3rd needle into first stitch on front needle and into first st on back needle and knit 2 stitches together, *knit the next 2 stitches together in the same way, pass the first stitch on the 3rd needle over the second stitch on the 3rd needle, repeat from * until no stitches remain on original needles, pull yarn through stitch on 3rd needle to secure. RESOURCES For a video tutorial demonstrating the wrapless short rows, see: for more information contact Sunday Knits 240 Lovesee Rd Roscoe, IL carol@sundayknits.com Pattern originally published in Making - Fauna. Fall Page 7 photographs by Carrie Bostick Hoge.

7 11¾ (12½, 13½, 14¼, 15, 15½, 16)" 6½ (7¼, 7¾, 8½, 9½, 10, 10¼)" 1" 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10, 10¼)" 6" 7½ (8, 8½, 9, 9½, 10, 10¼)" 1½" 12 (12½, 13, 13½, 14, 14½, 14¾)" 15 (17, 19¼, 21¼, 23½, 25½, 27½)" 16¾ (17, 17¼, 17½, 17½, 17½, 17½)" 7 10¾ (11, 11¼, 11½, 11½, 11½, 11½)" direction off wearing direction of knitting 10¼ (11¼, 12¼, 13¼, 14½, 15½, 16½)" 13¾ (14, 14¼, 14½, 14½, 14½, 14½)"