HBD Ocean Waves Shawl

Transcription

1 HBD Ocean Waves Shawl Exclusively Designed for MJ Yarns by Matthew Hesson-McInnis MJ Yarns: () Skeins Sophistisock Permission is granted to retailers to print one copy for each customer who purchases MJ Yarns. Permission is also granted to sell items made from this pattern for charitable fund raising. All other reproduction, transmission, distribution, or commercial use is prohibited without prior, written permission. All rights reserved. Required Skills & Abbreviations BO (Bind Off) Cast On CDD (Centered Double Decrease see notes) K (Knit) Ktog (Knit Together Decrease) P (Purl) Ptog (Purl Together Decrease) PM (Place Marker) SM (Slip Marker from left needle to right needle) SSK (Slip-Slip-Knit Decrease) YO (Yarn Over rease) Notes The original Ocean Waves Shawl pattern used a rather unimaginative crocheted border. In updating and reformatting this pattern, I added a Shark s Tooth Edging as a border on all three sides. The border evokes white caps dancing along the crests of the larger, undulating waves the ripple out through the symmetric triangles of this classically shaped top-down triangular shawl. Two skeins of Sophistisock are needed for the smaller shawl, and three skeins are needed for the larger shawl. Row-by-row and charts are provided, with all charts appearing at the end of the pattern. Gauge: STS = in Stockinette Needles: US # (.mm), 0 circular Notions: (thin) Stitch Markers Size [Check these] Smaller wide by tall Larger wide by tall Notes This triangular shawl is worked from the center of the neck down, essentially working mirror-image triangles separated by two yarn-overs and a knit st. Thus, the side edges of the shawl (as its being knit) will end up forming the long edge (ie hypotenuse) of the shawl; the bound-off edge has a 0 turn, forming the two shorter sides (ie legs) of the triangle. One of my favorite tips for working lace patterns is to create a perpetual pattern in the form of a flip book. These flip books are created by writing the instructions for each pattern row on an index card, punching holes in the top of each card, and putting locking rings through the holes. Immediately after you finish working each pattern row, flip that card over to reveal the next pattern row. Also, it helps to put a binder clip on the stack of cards to keep them from flipping unintentionally. The row-by-row instructions are spaced so that those two pages may be printed on card stock to facilitate creating your own flip book. The pattern includes a slipped-stitch selvedge edge; the first stitch of each row is slipped purlwise with the yarn left in place; because the last ST of each RS row is knit c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page

2 and the last ST of each WS row is purled, the yarn will always be hanging on the WS of the shawl. Thus, leave the yarn on the WS, slip the first ST purlwise, then move the yarn to the other side as necessary to work the next ST. If you move the yarn first, it will be carried across the selvedge edge, disrupting our clean, elegant edge and defeating the purpose entirely. Note that the chart and instructions include slipping the first stitch on the bind-off rows of the borders; after slipping that first ST and knitting the following ST, the first is pulled over the second, which is one boundoff stitch. Thus, the instruction to bind off STS will consume six STS, but one loop will remain on the right-hand needle, so the final ST count for the border is correct, and the first slipped ST loop will not be left dangling on the far side of the bound-off STS. Shawl Body Set-Up The following rows are worked once to set things up. Two triangles of wave motifs are created, with yarn-overs and a center-stitch in between. The Shark s Tooth border is worked on both edges as the shawl is worked, with the pattern stitches on the right for ODD (RS) rows and on the left for EVEN (WS) rows. Row Row CO, PM, CO, PM, CO Sl, K, SM P, SM, K, P Row Sl, YO, K, SM, YO, PM, K, PM, YO, SM, K Row Sl, YO, K, SM, P, SM, P, SM, P, SM, K, P Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K, P Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K, P Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K Row 0 Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K, P Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K, P Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, YO, K, YO, CDD, YO, K, YO, SM, K, SM, YO, K, YO, CDD, YO, K, YO, SM, K Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K, P Row Sl, BO, K, SM, YO, K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM, YO, K, YO, SM, K, YO, CDD, YO, K, YO, SM, K Row Sl, BO, K, SM, PM, P to last marker, PM, K, P Note that you will have added two additional markers on the last set-up row, placing them adjacent to the first and last markers without STS between them, but the YO s worked on subsequent rows will build up that ST count to over the -row repeat. Repeating Pattern The basic lace pattern is worked over repeats of sts and rows, and each row of the shawl consists of a border section, a side-increase section, a number of lace repeats, a center-increase section, a number of lace repeats, another side-increase section, and then the other border section. The stitch markers delineate these segments, and after each -row repeat, the inner markers need to be moved by STS as additional lace-repeats have been built up. It is essential to use thin, split-ring markers so that they may be adjusted before starting the next repeat. Please also be aware that there will be zero STS between the first pair and last pair of markers after the move. Work the row lace pattern a total of () times, using the instructions below or the chart. c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page

3 Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, SM Center K, YO, K, YO, K, SM Repeat YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM YO, SM Border K Row Border SL, K, YO, K, SM YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM K, YO, SM Border K Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row SL, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM K, YO, SM Border K Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM K, YO, SM Border K Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM K, YO, SM Border K Row Border Sl, BO, K, SM YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM K, YO, SM Border K Row 0 Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row Sl, BO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last ST, P c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page

4 Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, SSK, K, YO, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, SM Center K, YO, K, Ktog, YO, K, YO, SSK, K, YO, K, SM Repeat YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Border K YO, K, Ktog, YO, SM Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, K, SSK, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, K, Ktog, K, YO, K, YO, K, SSK, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Border K K, YO, K, Ktog, K, YO, SM Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, K, SSK, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, K, Ktog, K, YO, K, YO, K, SSK, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Border K K, YO, K, Ktog, K, YO, SM Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, K, CDD, (K, YO)*, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, SM Border K K, YO, K, CDD, K, YO, K, YO, SM Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row 0 Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row Border Sl, K, YO, K, SM YO, K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, CDD, YO, K, YO, K, YO, K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Border K K, YO, CDD, YO, K, YO, SM Row Border Sl, BO, K, SM YO, K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Center K, YO, CDD, YO, K, YO, K, YO, K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Repeat K, YO, CDD, YO, K, SM Border K K, YO, CDD, YO, K, YO, SM Row Sl, K, YO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last Row Sl, BO, K, SM, P to last marker, K to last ST, P; Move inner markers over by ST c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page

5 Right Border & Bind Off Right Corner Work the following short rows (or work Right First Corner Chart) to turn the corner to set up the bindoff border. Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row 0 Row Row Sl, K, YO, Slwyif (to wrap next ST); turn Sl (to finish wrapping the ST), K, P Sl, K, YO, K; turn (do not wrap STS past this point when turning Sl, K, P Sl, K, YO, K; turn Sl, K, P Sl, K, YO, K; turn Sl, K, P Sl, K, YO, K; turn Sl, K, P Sl, BO, K (note you will knit the wrapped ST while ignoring the wrap Sl, K, P Right Bind-Off Border Work the following border rows (or work Right Border Chart) () times; and then work the first 0 rows one more time. Remove the markers as you encounter them. Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row 0 Row Row Sl, K, YO, SSK; turn (without Sl, K, P Sl, K, YO, K, SSK; turn (without Sl, K, P Sl, K, YO, K, SSK; turn (without Sl, K, P Sl, K, YO, K, SSK; turn (without Sl, K, P Sl, K, YO, K, SSK; turn (without Sl, K, P Sl, BO, K, SSK; turn (without Sl, K, P Right Border Center Set-Up Work the following rows once (or work the Right Border Center Set-Up Chart). Row Row Row Row Row Row Sl, K, YO, K, SSK, turn (without Sl, K, P Sl, K, YO, K, SSK, turn (without Sl, K, P Sl, BO, K, turn (without Sl (returning all STS to the same side of the circular needle) Cut the yarn leaving a tail. Left Border & Bind Off Left Corner Slide all STS to the other side of the circular needle to work the left border. Position the shawl with the wrongside facing and slip STS to the right-hand needle so that we can resume the left border with a right-side row. Work the following corner rows (or work Left Border Corner Chart). Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row 0 Row Row Sl, K Sl, K, YO, Swyif (to wrap next ST) turn; Sl (to finish, K Sl, K, YO, P, turn (without Sl, K Sl, K, YO, P, turn (without Sl, K Sl, K, YO, P, turn (without Sl, K Sl, K, YO, P, turn (without Sl, K Sl, BO, K, P, turn (without Left Bind-Off Border c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page

6 Work the following border rows (or work Left Border Chart) () times; and then work the first 0 rows one more time. Remove the markers as you encounter them. Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row Row 0 Row Row Sl, K Sl, K, YO, Ptog, turn (without Sl, K Sl, K, YO, K, Ptog, turn (without Sl, K Sl, K, YO, K, Ptog, turn (without Sl, K Sl, K, YO, K, Ptog, turn (without Sl, K Sl, K, YO, K, Ptog, turn (without Sl, K Sl, BO, K, Ptog, turn (without Left Border Center Set-Up Work the following rows once (or work the Left Border Center Set-Up Chart). Row Row Row Row Row Row Sl, K Sl, K, YO, K, Ptog, turn (without Sl, K Sl, K, YO, K, Ptog, turn (without Sl, K Sl, BO, K, (continuing across center and right-border STS), P, K, P Center Border Bind-Off Finish the center bind-off by working the following rows. Row Row Row Row 0 Row Row Row Sl, K, CDD, K Sl, K, P, K, P Sl, K, CDD, K Sl, K, P, K, P Sl, K, CDD, K Sl, K, P, K, P Sl, CDD, K Row Row Sl, P CDD Cut tail to and pull it through this last ST. Finishing Weave in ends, but wait to trim the tails until after blocking (trimming the tails flush prior to blocking will not account for the stretching of the blocking process). Traditional Blocking The lace structure will not open up until the shawl is blocked. Place the shawl in a lingerie bag (mesh bag) and soak the shawl in warm water with Eucalan Wool Wash or a mild soap for one hour. Go outside and twirl the shawl (in the lingerie bag) over your head to remove excess water. Stretch the shawl out on a large, flat surface, pinning each point of the edging. PVC Frame Blocking Alternative, I like blocking using a PVC frame. For right-triangles, you ll need three 0-degree elbows, two -degree elbows, and a straight-connector, along with four ft long PVC pipes. You ll also need a package of rubber bands, paper clips, and thin nylon cord. Cut two of the pipes to ( ), joining them together with the straight connector to form a ( ) pipe. Cut the other two of the pipes to ( ), joining them together with one of the 0-degree elbow. The other two corners need to combine a -degree elbow and a 0-degree elbow to create a -degree corner; using the ends cut off one of the PVC pipes, cut two pieces approximately long to connect the two elbows. Place a -degree corner unit on each side of the long pipe and connect the two shorter sides to create a right-triangle. Cut a nylon blocking cord to a ( ) length, which includes extra at each end for tying the knot. Thread a darning needle with the nylon cord, pulling a loop through the eye of the needle, elongating it to pull over the needle, and cinch it down. Putting this slipknot in place will keep the nylon cord from (constantly) sliding out of the eye of the darning needle. c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page

7 Starting in the center of the neck, thread the darning needle from the wrong-side to the right-side, through the outer-most eyelet of each border repeat to the rightcorner, through the last eyelet on the corner itself, and through the last eyelet on the right border repeats to the center bind-off section. Be sure always to thread from the wrong-side to the right-side for consistency in the blocked result. The is no eyelet in the point of the center bind-off, but weave the needle through the edges of the point. blocking cord with one side and loop a rubber-band from the paper-clip, around the PVC pipe and into the paper-clip hook again. Use a paper-clip/rubber-band unit in the center back, on each side of the center-point, and on each side of both corners, gently pulling the blocking cord to even out the lengths, being careful to note that the knot at the center-neck will not (easily) pull through the lace edges. Place paper-clip/rubber-band units at the mid-points of each side and then work to fill all the gaps between border-points along each edge. Do not work each edge all the way but alternate adding clips to each side to avoid warping the shape asymmetrically. For the left-side of the border, you will again thread through the outer-most eyelet of each border repeat, but on this side, reverse the direction, going from the right-side to the wrong-side on each eyelet to reflect the mirror-image of the other side of the shawl. When you have threaded through each border repeat back to the center of the neck, remove the needle and tie the two ends together, leaving tails on each end. Use an overhand knot, a square-knot, and another overhand know to ensure that the knot doesn t slip during blocking. Please note that it will seem like you have yards and yards of extra blocking cord; this is normal. Soak the shawl and remove excess water as above. Bending each paper open to form an S-hook, catch the If you zoom in on that picture, you ll discover that I encountered a tiny glitch in the blocking process (I had a slightly smaller blocking frame on hand from a slightly smaller shawl that I thought would work just fine). It turned out that even a slightly smaller frame (a couple of inches along each side) was enough that there was not enough tension to a good, taunt blocking. So I sacrificed a handful of paperclips, folding them back on themselves, which worked quite well to stretch the piece sufficiently. c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page

8 repeat set-up Cast On (CO) Knit on RS, Purl on WS Purl on RS, Knit on WS Slip With Yarn in place Ignore this space and continue with chart to the left (RS) or right (WS) repeat Symbol Key Yarn Over (YO) Centered Double Decrease (CDD) Knit Together (Ktog) Slip-Slip-Knit (SSK) Bind Off (BO) Marker Position at end of set-up rows Marker position at end of row lace repeat before move Marker position at end of row lace repeat after move repeat c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page

9 Symbol Key Knit on RS, Purl on WS Purl on RS, Knit on WS Slip With Yarn in place Slip With Yarn to wrap Turn for short rows Turn for short rows Yarn Over (YO) Centered Double Decrease (CDD) Bind Off (BO) Purl Together (Ptog) Uses Border & Shawl ST Slip-Slip-Knit (SSK) Uses Border & Shawl ST Left Border Center Set-Up Chart Left Bind-Off Border Chart Center Border Bind-Off Chart 0 Right Border Center Set-Up Chart Right Bind-Off Border Chart repeat 0 0 repeat Left Border Corner Chart 0 Right Border Corner Chart 0 c 0 Matthew Hesson-McInnis Page