WHITE SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION WHITE SEWING MACHINE PRODUCTS LTD. Toronto 16, Ontario, Canada

Transcription

1 V -a a; S a a a. a,.. I.. I S. Co

2 Toronto 16, Ontario, Canada CLEVELAND 11, OHIO WHITE SEWING MACHINE PRODUCTS LTD. WHITE SEWING MACHINE CORPORATION tension adjustments, maintenance, or any of the operations listed on the next page. read it carefully and refer to it whenever you need information on threading, stitch and of many hours of trouble free sewing we have prepared this instruction book. Please To help you become thoroughly acquainted with your machine and to assure you equal ease because of its many improved and simplified features. machine will enable you to do zicjzag stitching, embroidery and straight sewing with Modern in appearance and functional in design, your new White automatic sewing

3 I INDEX Page Features and Parts 2 4 Needle and Thread Chart S Setting the Needle 6 Winding the Bobbin 6 Threading Bobbin Case 7 Placing Bobbin Case in Shuttle 8 Upper Threading 9 Straight Stitching 10 Changing Foot and Plate 10 Setting the Stitch Length 11 Stitch Length Chart 11 Sewing in Reverse 11 Adjusting the Tensions 11 Adjusting Pressure and Feed 12 General Sewing 12 Light Weight Fabrics 13 Darning and Monogramming 13 Preparing to Sew 13 Removing the Work 14 Creative Embroidery Satin Stitch Adjusting Stitch Width Embroidery Patterns Samples of Embroidery Embroidering With a Hoop Making Buttonholes Sewing on Buttons How to Use Accessories Narrow Hemmer Lace Trimmed Hem Lace Edge French Seam Flat Felled Seam Hand Rolled Effect Quilting Guide Seam Gauge Care and Maintenance Oiling Replacing Light Bulb Cleaning and Oiling Shuttle Page Check Up for Smooth Sewing 24 Accessories 26

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5 10. Push Button Reverse 23. Light Switch 13. Cover Plate 26. Arm Thread Guide 12. Drop Feed Regulator (Push Button) 25. Pressure Release Bobbin Winding Tension 24. Take-up Lever 2. Stitch Width Window 15. Presser Foot 6. Wheel Clutch 19. Thread Bar 9. Stitch Length Dial 22. Light Assembly 3. Stitch Width Locks 16. Needle Clamp and Screw 4. Stitch Width Lever 17. Attachment and Foot Thumb Screw 7. Bobbin Winder 20. Thread Guide 8. Stitch Length Window 21. Tension Regulator 1. Spool Pins 14. Needle Plate - 5. Hand Wheel 18. Needle Bar Thread Guide Guide Seam (Front View) FEATURES AND PARTS Darner

6 rf (Back View) FEATURES AND PARTS Feed 28. Presser Bar Lifter 30. Motor 27. Thread Cutler Fig. 2 L :4 i1ii * If 31. Belt

7 NEEDLE THREAD - FABRIC - Extremely heavy 6 10 Fabric No Per Inch Thread Thread Nylon Machine Silk tarpaulin, sacking, 4 to to Heavy Duty STITCHING GUIDE Needle Stitches Cotton Mercerized or 5 Heavy upholstery 8 30 fabric, ticking, 3 to to Heavy Duty denim, leatherette canvas, duck, etc Medium heavy drapery fabric, velveteen, 2 to to Heavy Duty suiting, felt, terry, etc Medium broadcloth, chintz, tafleta, sheer ninon, net, marquisette, etc to 10 Very sheer chiffon, handkerchief linen, Sheer voile, lawn, dimity, crepe, 0 to to 50 A wool, shantung, etc. 1 to to 50 A percale, gingham, linen, plastic film, etc. (Plastic film) batiste, lace, organdy, 00 to to 50 A

8 ..% : anism by turning the clutch 6 toward you or counterclockwise. moves when you turn the hand wheel. Break off loose thread end used to start the winding. from you until sewing mechanism is again engaged so that needle Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins, lead thread Bobbin will stop winding when it is filled. Turn clutch away Fig. 3 I -j H point, turning wheel toward you by hand. Then loosen the needle clamp screw B and the wheel. Hold thread end loosely and start machine slowly. small pin on spindle. Push bobbin winder pulley against hand on spindle of bobbin winder 7, fitting the notch on. bobbin over of thread through a hole ir the bobbin edge and place bobbin B tightening the needle clamp screw securely with a WINDING THE BOBBIN through the upper thread guide on the arm, and down through After changing the needle make one complete screw driver. the needle is in the correct position. Disengage the hand wheel (5, Fig. 4) from the stitching mech upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp hole, revolution of the balance wheel by hand to he sure (flat side to right) in the needle clamp and push it needle can he inserted into clamp C. Place needle shank of needle Flat surface r See Fig. 3. Raise the needle bar A to its highest SETTING THE NEEDLE the tension disc (11, Fig. 5) at the base of the machine. Run end 6 Fig ; : _;-

9 Fig. 6 Fig. 7 Fig. 8 LLI su r :23t0T 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case, : x TENSION of the spring as shown in Fig. 8. Fig. 5 right hand so that the thread on between thumb and forefinger of pull the thread into the slot of the and into the fork - bobbin case as shown in Fig. 7, and opening shaped case is on top. Take the bobbin top leads from left to right. Step Hold bobbin case between thumb and forefinger of left hand, so that draw it under the tension spring : BOBBIN CASE Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 6). the slot in the edge of the bobbin N i THREADING THE r - _L1 7

10 Fig. 9 Fig. 10 Open hinged cover plate left of the needle. place. Close the cover plate. make sure the bobbin case is locked securely in bobbin case again after latch has been released to THEN release the bobbin case latch, (D). Press until latch catches on the center post of the shuttle. bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible body, (C). Be sure the bobbin case finger, (E), and center the bobbin case on the stud of the shuttle hand, with at least three inches of thread running Fig. 9, between the thumb and forefinger of the left from the top of the bobbin case to the right. Insert (See 13, Fig. 1) Hold the bobbin case latch, (D), PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE is opposite the shuttle race notch, (A). Press the 8

11 inches long. thread which then can be pulled out straight. Place both thread ends under the slot of the presser foot and draw toward the back of the machine, leaving both threads three or four 2) lead thread through arm thread guide A 4) and up through the check spring C four inches of thread through needle. from right to left 3) run the thread down from the thread guide to the 6) up into take-up lever E from right to left 7) down into thread guide F on face plate 9) and into needle from left to right. Pull three or 8) through the needle bar thread guide G thread bar D (See insert, Fig. 10) 1) Place spool of thread on spool pin nearer the needle 5) then downward again around the underside of UPPER THREADING tension discs B, then around and between them goes all the way down and comes back up. A loop (Fig. 11) will be formed over the upper 9 Hold the end of upper thread loosely and turn hand wheel toward you until the needle Fig % I -

12 your accessory box. Both have narrow needle slots. Your machine is now ready for straight stitching with Fig. 12-B) to the left as far as it will go, then tighten. the straight stitch needle plate which are included in Changing the Foot and Plate. To change presser Attach cover plate to straight stitch plate by reversing the above procedure. Slip pin on lower side cf needle plate. Put plates on machine and fasten securely with and moving it to the extreme left. Lock by turning the screw to the right. Next, move the right screw lcck (3, will break in striking the foot or plate. Set the zigzag Be sure to set the stitch width at 0, or the needle needle plate screws. plate into groove on cover plate. needle plate upward, slipping upper pin on needle plate cover plate with left. (Fig. 12-A) To change needle plate (14, Fig. 1) remove screws and screw securely. Press corner of cover plate down slightly and pull out of groove. Then slide lower pin out. zigzag foot. Replace with hinged narrow foot and tighten wrong side up. Hold needle plate with right hand and you may want to use the straight stitch presser foot and For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft material, foot (15, Fig. 1) loosen thumb screw 17 and remove lift off with cover plate 13 attached. Turn assembly STRAIGHT STITCHING Slide upper pin under lip and into groove an cover width at 0 by loosening the left screw lock(3, Fig. 12-B) 10 zigzag lever 4 locked at zero width. Fig. 12-A Fig. 12-B / / / 1

13 / 1 / button is held in. SEWING IN REVERSE counterclockwise to loosen. Fig STITCH LENGTH CHART (Approximate) The length of the stitch is regulated by the dial, 9, showir in Fig. 12-B. Near 0 is the shortest No Feeding SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH lengths. Turn the dial to the right to lengthen and to the left to shorten the stitch. Figures on indicator Number of stitches per inch lower tension be sure that the machine is threaded properly. screw (Fig. 14) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, increase the tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 13) to as the tension is automatically released when it is raised. To ADJUSTING fhe FENSIQUS When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press in the button H, Fig. 12-B, as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the Always adjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small stitch and 4 is the longest, but the dial may be set at any spot between markings for a variety of the right, or clockwise. To decrease, turn to the left. The higher the number on the dial the tighter the tension. Before adjusting 11

14 or darner release, 25, Fig. 18, is at its lowest position and both A and B feed buttons,(fig. 19) Fig. 15 Fig. 16 Fig. 18 Fig. 19 Fig. 17 1] B A are up. thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat on lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 16). the fabric (Fig. 17). balanced, a perfect stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric (Fig. 15). thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC Fig. 14 GENERAL SEWING. Usually for straight sewing and zigzag stitching, the pressure bar cap L. When the upper and under tensions are properly When the upper tension is too tight, the lower When the upper tension is too loose, the upper 12

15 release it. PREPARING TO SEW by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to break. the hand wheel toward you until the needle is at its highest point. You are now ready to begin by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control. to start the machine. You merely press the conl:ol. The speed of [he machine is regulated Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feeding Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser fool Turn sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessary to touch the hand wheel NEVER run machine without material under presser foot. feed to normal, push the button A down as far as it will go, then button B marked DARN down as far as it will go. To return pletely by pressing down on the snap lock, A, Fig. 20. Push the Fig. 20 DARNING AND MONOGRAMMING. In order to move the B marked DARN down as far as the red line. and then press cap B down again to halfway spot. Push the button fabric freely in any direction for darning, mending and certain kinds of free-hand embroidery, release the pressure cap B corn down. Release all the way by pressincj the snap lock, A, Fig. 20, 1 silk or filmy material, the pressure cap should be about hallway When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on thin SEWING THIN OR LIGHT WEIGHT FABRICS. 13

16 as not to bend the needle. most embroidery, is obtained by setting the stitch length as The width may be set anywhere from just past 0 to 5. which is really just a very short near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action. zigzag stitch, and the basis for Fig. 22 Leave the ends of thread under the presser foot. Fig. 21-A Fig. 21-B in place. The satin stitch, Fig. 22, CREATIVE EMBROIDERY Pull down slightly, holding thread in both hands, so and to the left, Fig. 21-A and B, and pass the threads over the thread cutter. Now raise the presser foot and draw the fabric back lever and needle bar are at the highest position. Be sure to stop the machine when the thread take-up Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are -- 7 REMOVING THE WORK 14

17 1 to 5, then snap it back quickly to 1. Fig. 23 C. Set locks at 1 and 5. Gradually move lever from 1 E widths. Try setting the locks at 1 and 5, 2 and 4, etc. Set a rhythm for yourself and then settings, operating machine rather fast. B. Set locks at 2 and 4, then move lever slowly between sary, to establish a rhythni. D With the machine set for a short stitch length, different designs can be made by swinging Embroidery Patterns lever back to 0 for a short period. Count, if neces A. Sew a few stitches at 5 width, then quickly move c B SAMPLES OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY A lever (4, Fig. 12-B) as far to the right as it will go for the 4 width. the stitch width or zigzag lever back and, forth between 0 and 5 or any other combination of proceed. After a while you will become quite skillful, varying your designs by the speed of window) and the right lock at 4. The machine will then produce the 2 width. Move zigzag window, then tighten both locks. Should you wish to move freely between any two widths, slide them to the left or right until both indicators meet at the desired width number in the To stitch continuously at one zigzag width, loosen both screw locks (3, Fig. 12-B) and Adjusting the Stitch Width such as 2 and 4 for free hand embroidery or buttonhole sewing, set the left lock at 2 (in the the machine, stitch length and width and the manipulation of the lever. 15

18 free hand when embroidering or monogramming. stitches. Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. Continue until flower design It is easy to follow a stamped design or to work by pressing down the snap lock on the automatic lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate the machine sure to keep fingers out of the path of the needle. foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer and place under the needle after removing the presser darner. Push the button marked DARN down as Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and far as it will go. (See Fig. 24). Release the pressure from the foot EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP center of design. E. Drop feed, lock stitch width at 4 or 5, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left of 4 stitches, then raise it again. By operating the feed buttons rhythmically it is not necessary to count stitches. is complete. Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in at a rather high speed while moving the hoop slowly with both hands. Work carefully and be Fig. 24 : /1 D. Set both locks at 4 or 5, stitch length at 1. Do a few zigzag stitches, drop feed for 3 or / -,:;--= :. t.

19 17 MAKING BUTTONHOLES First, mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on fabric with a basting line or tailor s chalk. Make one on scrap fabric (following directions below) to be sure machine adjustments are correct. 1. Replace presser foot with buttonhole foot which is grooved deeply underneath to prevent piling up of thread. (See Fig. 25). 2. Lock the stitch width at 2 with the left screw lock, and set the stitch length near Lower needle carefully into the mark on fabric indicating the beginning of buttonhole. Stitch to the mark for the end of the buttonhole, step 1, Fig. 26, stopping machine with needle in fabric at right side of stitching. 4. Lift the presser foot and using the needle as a pivot, turn the fabric end for end. 5. Lower presser foot and turn hand wheel just enough to raise needle out of fabric. 6. Drop feed all the way down and move zigzag lever to 4. Take five or six stitches to form bar tack, step E 2, Fig Raise needle out of fabric and return feed to SEW 1 position and return stitch width to Stitch second side of buttonhole, step 3. Fig Make bar tack by repeating 5 and 6 above (step 4). 10. Return stitch width to 0 and take two or three stitches to fasten bar threads and prevent raveling. stitching. Cut the buttonhole opening with the seam ripper, being careful not to cut the p s. Fig. 25 C T or E T E p a E L Li I 2 p p tt E

20 regular way. Fig. 27-C Fig. 27-A, B and C). 2. Push the button marked DARN down as far as it will go. Fig. 27-B the two holes, and sew button to fabric in a rounded toothpick over the button, between set the stitch width at 0, and take a few stitches 0 1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot. (See 5. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent raveling, right hole of the button, then set left screw lock at this position. needle in the left hole. 3. Move zigzag width lever, to 0 position or to the extreme left. Turn the balance wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle 4. When needle goes into the center of each hole, run the machine needle, then gently lower the presser foot. Move the zigzag SEWING ON BUTTONS Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the width lever to the right until the needle comes exactly over the clears both holes of the button. Correct width if necessary. move stitch width lever to 3j or less for bar tack. at medium speed, making five or six stitches, stopping with the For narrower buttonholes, set the stitch width at less than 2, and of fabric before working on the garment. fabric. And it is always wise to make several buttonholes on scraps in the same hole. If you wish you may place Fig. 27-A tarlatan or paper, which can be torn away after stitching, under the If you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place 18

21 procedure as for sewing two hole buttons. highest position, replace regular presser foot with under needle and hem into scroll. four holes, hooks and snaps, etc. Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to to needle (Fig. 29). Sew hem as above, guiding lace attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in the slot next LACE TRIMMED HEM. To sew a narrow hem and snaps, etc., are sewn to the fabric with the same permit stitching the remaining two holes. Hooks, matically take a double turn through scroll. narrow hemmer (Fig. 28). For a plain narrow hem, make a 1/8 inch double fold for about two inches NARROW HEMMER. With the needle at its procedure above for the two hole button. HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES ends of thread as you start stitching. scroll of hemmer, draw forward to end and fasten with fold, slip underneath hemmer. Bring fold up into the If a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the same Apply the above method to sew on buttons with point of needle. Lower presser bar lifter. Gently pull Guide material slightly to right, and it will auto. button, forming a shank. Fasten. along edge of fabric. Hold each end of the two inch Fig. 28 Fig. 29,.:. i Remove the toothpick and wind, thread under 19

22 Edgestitch to lay seam flat. the pronged holder between the presser foot and the presser foot clamp screw (Fig. 31). FRENCH SEAM. With right sides together, place top piece of material 1, 8 inch inside QUILTING GUIDE. This guide for making parallel rows of stitching is attached, by placing edges of the narrow, rolled hem. HAND ROLLED EFFECT. Use a narrow zigzag stitch, just wide enough to catch both FLAT FELLED SEAM. Open out French seam and insert rolled edge in scroll of hemmer. fabric, making French seam. edge of lower piece. Insert in hemmer scroll, allowing hem to roll over and sew in top fullness in lace by feeding it freely under scroll. sew in lace. Press lace out flat along edge with hem turned up. It is possible to have a little side of fabric. Insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 30). Let hem roll over and LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING. Hold lace 1/8 inch from raw edge on right Fig. 30 Fig. 31 r I

23 top. amount of sewing you do. point. Remove top cover by loosening the screw on toward you until the take-up lever is at its lowest width guide. points indicated by arrows in Fig. 33, turn hand wheel Your machine should be oiled occasionally to Before oiling the upper part of the sewing unit at V, keep it operating smoothly - often depends on the how HOW TO OIL YOUR MACHINE YOUR MACHINE CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF of top stitching along edges of fabric. Fasten gauge to the right of the needle, it may also serve as a seam SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE. Use the seam When the bar is attached so that the curved part is with accompanying screw in threaded hole in bed of successive rows will be an equal distance apart. gauge as a guide for straight seams and even rows By letting the guide ride on the first stitching line, Adjust the curved bar to press lightly on the fabric. machine (Fig. 32). Adjusl to seam width desired. i Lj F? - 21 Fig. 33. t (t :11,, Fig. 32

24 sewing machine dealer. face plate. Oil at spots indicated in Fig. 35. Fig. 34 Fig. 35 face plate, unscrew bulb and replace with bulb of same size, which is available from your The lamp assembly (See Fig. 35) is fastened to the arm under the face plate. Open the HOW TO REPLACE LIGHT BULB To oil moving parts inside the face plate, which only rarely require oiling, just open the of oil at each point indicated in Fig. 34. Avoid over - - oiling only a drop is needed at each point. j - To oil parts under the bed of the machine, tip the unit back on its hinges and apply a drop V N 1J% I c., - J * c-- 22 I

25 Fig. 37,, :N.4 id c1.- I.. on its hinges. 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. Tilt head back 2. Remove bobbin case (A), Fig. 36. the lint will safeguard the performance. To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows: (See Figs. 36 and 37) CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE cj r 23 Fig f ç 1 çj A 17 This will interfere with the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and removal of The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes clogged with loose threads and lint.

26 snapped securely into position. Upper Thread Breaks Check correct method of threading bobbin case. position with shuttle race cover clamps, (B), making certain the clamps have been When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as follows to replace the shuttle assembly: 5. Apply a drop of oil with finger tip to outer edge of shuttle. 4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race cover by removing all threads., lint, etc. (C) and. shuttle body (D). Use correct needle size for thread. Lower Thread Breaks Do not have upper tension too tight. Check on correct way to thread machine. Be sure needle is inserted properly. following difficulties occur they can be remedied with minor adjustments. Although your sewing machine is designed for maximum efficiency, should any of the CHECK UP FOR SMOOTH SEWING 4. Put bobbin into bobbin case. 3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward and remove the shuttle race cover 1. Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its highest position. 2. Place shuttle body, (D), against shuttle driver and adjust into position. 3. Replace shuttle race cover, (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch, and lock into 5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle race, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover. 24

27 Insert needle correctly. Clean thread, dust and lint from hook, shuttle and race. machine oil. oil holes, run rapidly for a while, and wipe dry. Then lubricate again with fine sewing If condition continues, it may be that the machine is gummy with oil. Apply kerosene to Machine Binds Make sure tensions are properly balanced and that machine is threaded correctly. Stitches Loop Use correct needle size for thread.. needle. Skipped Stitches Do not tug or pull on the fabric while sewing as this will bend and eventually break the Needle Breaks Be sure lower tension is not too tight. Be sure presser foot is firmly attached to bar. Do not use a blunt or bent needle. Be sure pressure on foot is sufficient when sewing heavy fabrics. 25

28 12 13 * Package of Needles (5) 1. Plastic Oiler (Sealed and filled) ACCESSORIES 26 H (graduated) 14. Needle Plate for Straight Sewing Bobbins (3) Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins) r L 10. Narrow Hemmer I 11 Thumb Screw 8. Buttonhole Foot 7. Button Sowing Foot 9. Presser Foot for Straight Sewing 2 6. Cloth Guide 5. Quilter Guide 4. Small Screw Driver 3. Large Screw Driver

29 MEMO 27