INDEX. Pages. Pages. Accessories 24. Trouble Darning and Mending 11. How to Use 25. Hemmers 26 Quilting Guide 27 Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide 27

Transcription

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2 How to Use 25 Stitch I.ength 9 Hemmers 26 Quilting Guide 27 Seam Gauge or Cloth Guide 27 Accessories 24 Pages Attachments 35 Attachment Foot 36 Need-Thread-Fabric-Stitching 4 Charts Bobbin Buttons Sew-On 22 Buttonholes 17 Blind Stitching 20 Hemmers Binder 38 Adjustadle Cord and Zipper Foot 41 Edgestitcher 36 Ruffler 43 Placing in Shuttle 7 Threading 6 Winding 5 INDEX Decorative Stitches 19 Creative 15 Features and Parts (Front View) 2 Pressure and Feeding of Fabric 11 Threading-Upper 8 Hoop 16 Tension Adjustment 10 Thin and Light weight Fabrics 11 Maintenance and Care 28 Needle Setting 6 (Back View) 3 Embroidery Trouble Darning and Mending 11 Head in Portable Case 47 Pages Installation-Head in Cabinet 49 Cleaning and Oiling the Shuttle 29 Reverse Sewing 9 Selection of Stitch 1 3 Sewing Preparation 1 2 Sewing Tips Straight Stitching 14 Stretch Stitching 23

3 2 21. Sew Light Switch 5. Zigzag Creative Embroidery Lever 20. Tension Regulator 10. Stitch Length Control 11. Stretch Stitch Control 12. Push Button Reverse 13. Bobbin Winder Tensron Disc 14. Drop Feed Control 17. Presser Foot 18. Presser Foot Clamp Screw 19. Needle Clamp 16. Slide Cover Plate 15. Needle Plate 8. Hand Wheel 4. Decorative Stitch Selector Dail 6. Zigzag Width & Buttonhole Contrc 9. Clutch Nut 2. Pressure Release 3. Arm Top Thread Guides 7. Bobbin Winder (Front View) 1. Thread Take-up Lever FEATURES AND PARTS

4 FEATURES AND (Back \Iiew) PARTS f) 22. Spool Pins 23. Presser Bar Lifter 24. Thread Cutter 25. Feed Dog 26. Head Hinge Mounting Holes Fig. 2

5 4 chintz, taffeta, sheer 14 nylon, net, marquisett, etc. 20 Extremely heavy 6 Heavy upholstery 8 14 to 50 0 Very sheer chiffon, 16 batiste, lace, organdy, 9 to 50 0 wool, shantung, etc. Plastic film, etc. \P astic im percale, gingham, linen, No. suiting, felt, terry, etc. 12 fabric,velveteen, 16 to Heavy Duty Medium heavy drapery 10 Per Inch Thread tarpaulin, sacking, 18 to Heavy Duty Thread Fabric denim, leatherette. 10 Medium broadcloth, 12 Needle handkerchief linen, ( aimity, crepe, 11. to 1 Stitches Mercerized Synthetic Machine canvas, duck, etc. 8 fabric, ticking, 18 to Heavy Duty Sheer voile, lawn, 14 NEEDLE-THREAD-FABRIC-STITCHING GUIDE

6 Fig 5 the winding. Break off loose thread end used to start moves when you turn the hand wheel. Disengage the hand wheel (1, Fig. 3) from the stitching mechanism by turning the clutch Place a spool of thread on one of the spool pins and lead thread through the arm top thread mechanism is again engaged so that needle Bobbin will stop winder when it is filled. Turn clutch away from you until sewing, loosely then start machine s owly. latch (7, Fig.4) down, and hold thread end small pin on spindle. Press bobbin winder place bobbin on spindle of bobbin winder flange of bobbin from inside to outside and Run end of thread through a hole in the left guides (3.& 4, Fig. 5) and the bobbin winder tension disc at the right front of bedplate (5,Fig.5) (2, Fig. 3) toward you or counter clockwise. (6, Fig.4,) fitting the notch on bobbin over WINDING THE BOBBIN Fig. 3 Fig. 4 - I Ii 5

7 shown in Fig. 9, and draw it under tension spring and into the fork-shaped opening of the spring as shown in Fig. 10. Step 2. Insert bobbin into bobbin case, pull the thread into the slot of the bobbin cose as forefinger of right hand so that the thread on top leads from left to right. so that the slot in the edge of the bobbin case is on top. Take the bobbin between thumb and Step 1 (illustrated in Fig. 8). Hold bobbin cose between thumb and forefinger of left hand, THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE Fig. 6 position. to be sure the needle is in the correct plete revolution of the balance wheel by hand Fig. 7 After changing the needle make one corn a screw driver. upward as far as it will go into the needle clamp needle can be inserted into clamp C. Place needle P Then loosen the needle clomp screw B and the / point, turning wheel toward you by hand. hole, tightening the needle clamp screw securely with See Fig. 6. Raise the needle bar A to its highest (flat side to right) in the needle clomp and push it SETTING THE NEEDLE 6

8 is locked securely in place. Close the cover plate. after latch has been released to make sure the bobbin case case on the stud of the shuttle body, (C). Be sure the release the bobbin case latch, (D). Press bobbin case again until latch catches on the center post of the shuttle. Then Press the bobbin case (B) into the shuttle as far as possible with at least three inches of thread running from the top of bobbin case finger, ([), is opposite the shuttle race notch (A) the bobbin case to the right, Insert and center the bobbin Fig. 1) between the thumb and forefinger of the left hand, to the left (16, Fig. 1). Hold the bobbin case latch, (D, Raise needle bar to highest position, and slide cover plate PLACING BOBBIN CASE IN SHUTTLE Fig. 8 Fig N SLOT TENSION Fig. 11 Fig. 10 7

9 under the slot of the presser foot and draw toward the bock of the machine, leaving both threads three or four inches long. the needle bar guide from the bock. the upper thread loosely and turn the hand wheel be formed over the upper thread which then can be pulled out straight. Place both thread ends through about 3 or 4 inches. Hold the end of down and comes back up. A loop (Fig. 13) will passes beyond the beak of hook to the right, toward you until the needle goes all the way between face plate and machine arm through lower end of thread guide plate in the slot 6. Up and through the eye of the take-up lever loop will return to position. See Fig will be slipped into the hook and the spring wire from right to left. then, pull the thread bock to the left, the thread from right to left. pull the end of thread between the tension discs, 4. Holding the spool stationary with the right hand, 5. Pull the spring wire loop up until the thread 8. Thread needle from left to right, drawing it 2. Place a spool of thread on the spool pin. 3. Lead the thread through the arm top thread guides. 7. Lead thread down through thread guide at the take-up lever to its highest position. 1. Turn the hand wheel toward you to raise the UPPER THREADING Fig. 12 Fig. 12-B I

10 9 I - a-. I - Fig. 13 Fig. 14 SETTING THE STITCH LENGTH the length of the stitch is regulated by the dial (10, Fig. 14) Near 0 is the shortest stitch and 5 is the longest, but the dial may be set at any spot between the markings for a variety of lengths. Turn the dial to the left to lengthen and to the right to shorten the stitch. The number stitch length you choose is indicated by the pointer. STITCH LENGTH CHART (APPROXIMATE) Figures on indicator Number of stitches per inch No Feeding SEWING IN REVERSE When you wish to sew backward to tie the threads at the beginning or end of a seam, press in the button (12, Fin. 14) as far as it will go. The machine will sew backward as long as the button is held in.

11 I on the fabric (Fig. 16-C). interlocking in fabric (Fig. 16-A) When the upper tension is too tight, the lower When the upper tension thread forms loops over the lower thread lying flat is too loose, the upper lying flat on the fabric (Fig. 16-a) When the upper thread is pulled up over the upper thread which is be formed with both threads a perfect stitch will tensions ore properly balanced, Fig. 16-A Fig. 16B screw (Fig. 17) on side of the bobbin case clockwise to tighten, counterclockwise to loosen. When necessary to change the bobbin tension, turn small be sure that the machine is threaded properly. To decrease, turn to the left. Before adjusting lower tension tension on the upper thread, turn dial (Fig. 15) to the right, Always odjust the upper tension with the presser foot down, as the tension is released when it is raised. To increase the ADJUSTING THE TENSIONS Fig, 17 Fig. 16-C Fig. 15

12 Turn 11 ADJUSTING PRESSURE AND FEEDING OF FABRIC General Sewing. Usually for normal sewing the pressure bar cap or darner release (Fig. 19) is at its lowest position and the drop feed knob is turned to HIGH position(fig. 1 8) Sewing regular weight fabrics. When lighter pressure is required to sew satisfactorily on bulky, heavy material, the pressure cap should be about halfway down. Release all the way by pressing the snap lock (A, Fig. 20), and then press cap(b) down again to halfway spot. To sew thin, lightweight fabrics lower the feed slightly by turning the knob to LOW position. Fig. 8 DARNING AND MENDING In order to move the fabric freely in any direction for darning and mending, release the pressure cap (B) completely by pressing down on the snap lock (A, Fig. 20). knob to DOWN position, which drops the feed well below the needle plate. To the return feed to normal, return knob to HIGH pos,tion (Fig. 1 8) Fg. 20

13 Fig. 2t A Fig left (Fig. 21,A and B) and pass the needle. the presser foot. when the thread take-up lever and needle bar are at the highest pa Ieove the ends of thread under in both hands, so as not to bend Pull down slightly, holding thread REMOVING THE WORK Be sure to stop the machine Now raise the presser foot and the threads over the thread cutter. draw the fabric back and to the s,t ion. to touch the hand wheel to start the machine. You merely press the control. The speed of the are now ready to begin sewing. By having the needle at its highest point, it is not necessar Place material and threads in position under the presser foot and lower the presser foot. Yot machine is regulated by increasing or decreasing the amount of pressure exerted on the control. by pulling the material as this may deflect the needle and cause it to breok. NEVER run machine without material under presser foot. Have take-up lever at highest point before starting to sew. Do not try to help the feedin PREPARING TO SEW

14 stitch position. For blind hem stitching, set the selector dial at./ with the stretch control at M, and for For other automatic decorative stitches, be the pattern selector dial at the position of symbolized For further detail, please refer to each relative, page for every different kd of stitch. control (11, Fig. 22) at M. make of decorative stitch pattern you desire. overcast stretch hem stitch, same selector dial position, but with the stretch control at S be applied hem stitching straight and Rick-Rack stretch shtches, overcast stretch hem stitches, also, eight kinds For ordinary straight and zigzag stitches, set the selector dial (4. Fig. 22) at M with stretch stitch For straight and Rick-Rock stretch stitches, set the selector dial at M with the stretch control ot S In addition to ordinary straight and zigzag stitches, five automatic garment-make stitches of blind SELECTION OF STITCH of automatic decorative stitches are availadle with setting the pattern selector dial at your desired Fig. 22 I) 13

15 I Fig. 24 or plate. (A) l.ooseri presser foot clamp screw (18, Fig. 24) (A) Slide cover plate (16, Fig. 24) to the left as far Fig. 24) at M, or needle will break in striking the foot (B) Replace with straight stitch presser foot (Fig. (B) Remove screws holding needle plate (15, Fig. 24) to bed plate. (6, Fig. 24) at 0 and decorative stitch selector dial (4, as possible. 23-A) Fig. 23-A Fig. 23-B and remove zigzag presser foot. (1) Presser Foot (2) Needle Plate Be sure to set the zigzag width and buttonhole controle B) (D) Replace with straight stitch needle plate (Fig. Changing the Presser Foot and Needle Plate; accessory box. Both have narrow needle slots. you may want to use the straight stitch presser foot and the straight stitch needle plate which are included in your For straight sewing on fine fabric or very soft material, STRAIGHT STITCHING (C) Remove zigzag needle plate.

16 Do 15 CREATIVE EMBROIDERY Be sure zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle plate are in place. The satin stitch (Fig. 25) which is really just a very short zigzag stitch and the basis for most embroidery, is obtained by setting stitch length control (10, Fig. 24) as near 0 as possible without stopping the feeding action and zigzag width (6, Fig. 24) at 4. To stitch continuously at one width of zigzag stitching, set zigzag width control (6,Fig.24) to chosen stitch width number, Fig. 25 With the machine set for a short stitch length, different designs can be mode by activating creative embroidery lever (5, Fig. 24) sidewards from left to extreme right in its moving stroke or ony other combination of movements. Try setting the zigzag width (6, Fig. 24) at 1 and various numbers. Set a rhythm for yourself and then proceed. After a while you will become quite skillfule, varying your designs by the speed of the machine, stitch length, and manipulation of the creative embroidery lever. I SAMPLE OF CREATIVE EMBROIDERY Fig. 26 A. Sew a few stitches at full width, then allow lever to spring back to 0 for a short period. Count, if necessary, to establish a rhythm. B. Set zigzag with at 2 then move creative embroidery lever slowly back and forth between left and right. C. Set zigzag width at 1. Gradually move lever from left to right, allowing at to snap back quickly 0. Set zigzag width at 4, stitch length at 1. a few zigzag stitches, drop feed for 3 or 4 stitches, then raise it again, by operating the feed knob rhythmically t is not nessessary to count stitches.

17 Release Continue 16 the foot by pressing down on the snap lock ring the needle. Should you encounter skip stitches, the fabric is not stretched tight enough or a darning spring will be encountered. Stretch the fabric in an embroidery hoop, and When darning or monograming in this manner, the fabric must be held tout or skipped stitches foot. Set the stitch width at the size you prefer and leave feed in sewing position. place under the needle after removing the presser place, release all pressure on presser foot, set stitch length at 0, set zigzag stitch width to suit, If you wish to darn or monogram without embroidery hoop, leave zigzag presser foot in DARN OR MONOGRAM WITHOUT HOOP is needed (see attachments available from your dealer illustrated in the back of this book). hoop slowly with both hands. Work carefully and be sure to keep fingers Out of the path of arid lower the presser bar lifter. Then operate the Fig. 27 darner. Set the drop feed button at DOWN position all the way. work free hand when embroidering or monogram machine at a rather high speed while moving the It is easy to follow a stamped design or to EMBROIDERING WITH A HOOP ing. See Fig. 27. Lock threads by setting stitch width at 0 and taking 3 or 4 stitches in center of design. stitches. Pivot fabric on needle to make next daisy petal. the pressure from until flower design is complete. E. Drop feed, set stitch width lock to 4, take 3 or 4 stitches, leave needle in fabric left of

18 This will set the width of the buttonhole sides. To obtain the length of the cutting space, the opening (1) Set decorative stitch indicator at manual position. (2) Set stretch stitch control lever at (3) Replace presser foot with special purpose butt (4) Set stitch length control at the buttonhole position. (5) Turn buttonhole control to position Number 1. below) to be sure The machines adjustments are correct. stitches to feed evenly (Fig. 28) It provides maximum5ibl,t and allows closely spaced foot. 9rihole or two buttonholes on scrap fabric (following directions First mark the beginning and end of the buttonhole on the width A and thickness B of the button (Fig. 29). the fabric with a basting line or tailor s chalk. Make one through which the button passes is measured by adding inch to the cutting space for bar tacks. To establish the correct length buttonhole required add i BUTTONHOLES r E p i:. S Fig DJ p T Sn H; ci Fig. 29 Fig. 28 U

19 I stitching. lever to 0 and back to the number 1 position to put the machine in forward When making additional buttonholes, be sure to return the buttonhole control paper under fabric which can be torn away after stitching. set the machine to sew in reverse. (Fig. 30, Step3) to return to top of buttonhole. bar tack stitches. (Fig. 30, Step2) (Fig. 30, Step 1 in page 17). Sew length of buttonhole. (10) Set buttonhole control t 0 position, extreme left, and take two or three stitches to (11) Cut the buttonhole opening with seam ripper, being careful not to cut the stitching. fasten bar tack to prevent ravelling. or five bar tack stitches. (Fig. 30, Step4) (6) l.ower needle carefully into the mark on the fabric indicating the buttonhole. (Fig. (7) With needle out of the cloth, set buttonhole control to 2-4 position sew four or five (8) With needle out of the cloth, set buttonhole control to position Number 3. This will (9) With needle out of the cloth, turn buttonhole control back to 2-4 position. Sew four if you plan to make buttonholes on sheer or soft material, place torlaton or BUTTONHOLES 18

20 4. Set stitch length control at desired stitch length. 5. Set zigzag width control (6, Fig. 31) at Set the stretch stitch control lever (11, Fig. 31) at M. 3. Return creative stitch lever to the left. 2. Move decorative stitch selector dial (4. Fig. 31) to desired design. 1 Move creative stitch lever (5, Fig. 31) to the right and hold it. To select stitch design DECORATIVE STITCHES Fig. 31 4) (6 II 19

21 20 BLIND STITCH HEM Use standerd zigzag foot. (Fig. 32) Set stitch length control between number 2 and 4. Set decorative stitch selector dial (4, Fig. 1 in page 2) at Blind I-lemming. Blind stitch hems provide a durable hem finish that is almost invisible and comparable to hand sewing. Prepare the garment in the same manner as for hand hemming. Fig. 32 STEP STEP STEP STEP COMPLETED J/j Fig. 33 Step 1. (Fig. 33) if hem with folded edge is used make first fold deep. Step. 2. Turn hem to the depth desired and baste from upper edge. Press in place. Step 3. Fold hem back toward right side of garment leaving extended. Step 4. Place material under presser foot, sew with stitch length set to Suit material being sewn and make a side wise stitch about every 3< of an inch of sewing., 4

22 I Machine bastes patch into place by placing fabric under control slower when sewing around contours and faster for straight lines. tinue to use the machine. Also, for best result Set speed hole or worn area which has been Cut away. Then zigzag Hundreds of other uses will became apparent as you con pass over the edge of the fabric on the right (Fig. 37). the needle swings to the left, and allowing the needle to just Zigzag stitch along the worn edges, catching the fabric as around the design outlining it entirely. Fig. 38-Baste design to fabric and overcast a zigzag stitch material on the outer edge by trimming it away after stitching. Fig. 36-Baste design to fabric and zigzag stitch following the shape of the design outlining it entirely and remove excess APP LIQUE stitch the patch into place by overcasting around edge of hole. OVERCASTING WORN EDGES PATCHtNG Use for: plate ore in place and machine is set for manual operation Be sure standard zigzag presser foot and zigzag needle MANUAL OPERATION Fig

23 22 SEWING ON BUTTONS 1. Remove hinged presser foot and attach button sewing foot. (See Fig. 39.) 2. Set drop feed control at DOWN position all the way. (Fig. 43) 3. Set zigzag stitch width stop at 0. Place the button so that its left hole comes directly under the needle, then gently lower the presser foot. (Fig. 40), 4. Move zigzag stitch width stop until the needle comes down exactly over the right hand hole in the button. (Fig. 41). Turn the hand wheel slowly by hand to be sure the needle enters both holes in button without deflecting needle, correct width f necessary. 5. When needle goes into the center of each hole, run the machine at medium speed, making six or eight stitches, stopping with the needle in the left hole. 6. To lock the zigzag stitch and prevent ravelling, set the stitch width at 0, and take a few stitches in the same hole. if you wish you may place a rounded toothpick over the button, between the two holes, and sew button to fabric in regular way. Remove the toothpick and wind thread under the button, forming a shank to fasten. Appy the above method to sew on buttons with four holes, hooks and snaps, etc. if a four hole button is to be sewn, follow the some procedure as for the two hole button. Now lift presser foot slightly and move fabric to permit stitching the remaining two holes. Hooks, snaps, etc., are sewn to the fabric with the same procedure as for sewing two hole buttons. Fig. 39 Fig. 40 Fig. 41 Fig. 42 Fia. 43

24 Note: Do not set stitch length control ot oy other position than 5. apparent to you the stretch blind hem stitching is performed. W1th the zigzag width control (6) at 0 and the decorative stitch selector dial at With the zigzag width control (6) at higher number than 1, Ricl-Rack (zigzag) stretch stitching forword and reverse, completly releasing from the ordinary stitch length Control mechanism. (11 stitch control Fig.44) at the S position and the stitch length Control (10) at the longest possible 5) to stitch (Number behave the mechanism to stitch same 3/32 (2 mm) stitch length in both STRETCH STITCHING 23 I) To sew a reinforced seam that will considerably stretch more than the fabric used, set the stretch is performed. Fig. 44 A reinforce seam that will stretch is the most wanted feature in a sewing machine today. Its uses are almost unlimited and the more you use your machine the more it will become.

25 24 ACCESSORIES... I, 1. Plastic Oiler (Sealed and Filled) 2. Package of Needles (5) 3. large Screw Driver 4. Small Screw Driver 5. Bobbins (3) 6. Felt Washers (2) (for spool pins) 7. Quitter Guide 8. Cloth Guide 9. Button Sewing Foot Fig. 10. Prong Type Buttonhole Foot 11. Presser Foot for Straight Sewing 12, -Narrow Hemmer 13. Thumb Screw 14. Needle Plate for Straight Sewing (graduated)

26 of ruffles or any other dainty work. Fig, 47 The narrow hem provides an excellent finish for edges turn through scroll. Guide material slightly to left and it will take a double for about two inches along edge of fabric. Hold each ed hem). (Fig. 46 for straight stitched hem, Fig. 47 for zigzag st)tch lifter. Gently pull end of thread as you Start stitching fold up into the scroll of hemmer, draw fabric forward to end of the two inch fold, slip underneath hemmer. Bring For a plain narrow hem make a inch double fold end and fasten with point of needle..ower presser bar 3 for zigzag stitched hem. Set stitch length control to Suit. and zigzag stitch width control at 0 for straight stitched hem or at number in place. Set decorative stitch control (5 Fig. ) at straight stitch position presser foot with narrow hemmer (Fig. 45) being sure to tighten it securely Narrow Hemmer: W1th needle at its highest position replace regular HOW TO USE ACCESSORIES 25

27 26 LACE TRIMMED HEM To sew a narrow hem and attach lace in one stitching, insert lace in the slot next to needle (Fig. 48) sew hem as above, guiding lace under needle and hem into scroll. Rickrack may be used in the same way. LACE EDGE WITH INVISIBLE STITCHING Hold lace inch from raw edge on right hand side of fabric. Insert both in scroll as for plain narrow hem (Fig. 49) let hem roll over and sew in lace. When the stitching is completed the hem is pressed on the wrong side. FRENCH SEAM Place material with right sides facing each other and the top piece of material,3- inch from right hand edge of lower piece. In sert in hemmer scroll allowing hem to roll over and sew in top fab ric making French seam. For cording effect, use zigzag stitch wide enough to catch both edges of the narrow rolled hem and sew with satin stitch. This can be used for covering chairs and so forth. (Fig 50) HEMMING A SEAM ACROSS Fig. 51 To hem across a seam, Cut the seam folds at an angle so they will lead into the hemmer gradually. Press seam open. Stitch across the seam at the extreme edge to hold it together and for added firmness. It may be necessary to pull the material slightly when hemming over the seam. (Fig. 51)

28 to desired width. Use the seam gauge as a guide for straight seams (Fig. 54) in threaded hole in bed of machine. Adjust Fasten Gauge (Fig. 53) with accompanying screw and even rows of top stitching along edge of fabric. (Fig. 56) SEAM GAUGE OR CLOTH GUIDE Fig. 55 Fig. 53 Fig. 54 w I on the previous stitching line, successive rows will be presses slightly on the fabric. By letting the guide ride desired between rows of stitches and set so it (Fig. 52). Adjust the curved bar for the distance and thumb screw from the back and tighten screw at on equal distance apart (Fig. 55). Fig. 52 Slip U shaped holder on guide between presser foot or decorative stitching. Attach standard presser foot. Use this guide for making parallel rows of straight QUILTING GUIDE 27

29 I 28 mon household oils. the arrows on Figs. 57, 58 and 59. Avoid over oiling. Once a year oil your machine thoroughly as indicated by ing you do. erating smoothly-how often depends on the amount of sew Your machine should be oiled occasionally to keep it op Use oniy a good sewing machine oil, do not use any com HOW TO OIl. YOUR MACHINE YOUR MACHINE CARE AND MAINTENANCE OF Fig. 57 Fig. 58 I Fig. 59

30 I The stitch forming mechanism occasionally becomes 3. Replace shuttle race cover, (C), fitting pin at lower edge into notch and lock into position 5. Put the bobbin case into the shuttle, fitting tongue into notch E of race cover. 3. Turn the two shuttle race cover clamps (B) outward 4. Clean the shuttle race, the shuttle, and shuttle race 2. Place shuttle body, (D), in race against shuttle driver and adtust into position. 4. Put bobbin into bobbin case. th shuttle race cover clamps, (B), making certain the clamps have been snapped securely into position. L Turn the balance wheel until the needle reaches its body (D). A 2. Remove bobbin case.. Turn To remove the shuttle assembly, proceed as follows: removal of the lint will safeguard the performance. follows to replace the shuttle assembly: cover by removing all threads, lint, etc. the efficient operation of the machine. Cleaning and clogged with loose threads and lint. This will interfere with When the cleaning has been completed, proceed as (See Fig. 60 and 6) highest position. Tilt head back on its hinges. and remove the shuttle race cover (C) and the shuttle highest position. Fig. 6) Fig. 60 C j) B CLEANING AND OILING THE SHUTTLE the balance wheel until the needle reaches its 29

31 (F) Adjust as noted under No. 2. pivoting around the hand wheel away from the front of the machine. (E) Replace V belt by slipping it over hand wheel and then over motor pulley. (A) Remove top cover. (D) Slip belt off motor pulley and then over hand wheel. (C) Loosen screws A (Fig. 64> and move bracket B to its highest position. (B) Loosen dutch (C, Fig. 64). (1) Remove four screws holding rear cover (Fig. 64) by tipping it out at the bottom and (2) To adjust V belt, loosen screws (A, Fig. 64) and move bracket B up to loosen belt and (3). To remove V belt: down to tighten. Following are the instructions for adjusting and changing the V belt: Fig. 63 Fig. 64 ADJUSTING AND CHANGING V BELT

32 place, fitting tongue into notch of race cover. 7 Grasp threaded bobbin case by latch and re 6 Replace hook, then race cover. Snap clamps into place. 5 Run a drop of oil along rim of hook. 4 Clean thread and lint from all parts, includ ing race. 2 Turn clamps outward and remove race cover. 3 Remove hook. chø\ RACE COVER 1100K CLAMPS BOBBIN eobbin NOTCI( RACE LINT CLEANER Binds raceway head back on hinges and remove bobbin case. If Machine Thread or lint in 1 With take up lever in highest position, tilt Trouble Probable Cause Correction TROUBLE CHART 31

33 V See. See 32 Trouble probable Cause Correction Skipping Stitches Bent needle Discord and replace. Needle placed incorrectly in clamp See instruction, page No. 6. Too fine a needle tor tnreacl being useo Irre 9U lar Upper thread tension Stitches too loose neeaie ana tnreoa Cnart, page No.4. Tignten upper tension. Improper threading See threading instruction, page No. 8. Uneven Stitches Bobbin not wound evenly Pulling or holding material Not enough tension on upper thread Poor quality thread Needle too fine for thread being used V Rewina Doooin. Avoid pulling or holding material, just guide it. V Increase tension. Try different thread. needle and thread chart, page No. 4.

34 Stitch Material will not feed Set stitch length Control at Number 5. Sewing Stretch Machine noisy Stitch length too long Reduce stitch length. Dull needle Change needle. Puckering Material Tensions too tight See tension adjustment, page No. O. Bent or blunt needle th new. Discard all blunt or bent needles and replace too sharp Bent or eye of needle Try a new needle. needle in incorrect position highest position. thread tension knob to LOOSE. Too much tension loosen tension on upper thread by turning Breoking Upper Thread Improperly threaded Improper setting of and reth read machine. Refer to threading instructions, see page No. 8, Starting with take-up Always start sewing with take-up lever in Refer to needle setting instn.,ction, see page No. 6. Trouble Probable Cause Correct on 33

35 34 SCARBOROUGH, ONTARIO BIRCHMOUNT ROAD STANDARD SEWING EQUIPMENT CORP. IN CANADA NEW YORK, N.Y NINTH AVENUE STANDARD SEWING EQUIPMENT CORP. 1+ a sewing machine dealer is not available mail your inquiry directly to: of receiving the genuine part designed for best performance with your machine. ask him to order them for you by part number. Then you will be assured cost from your dealer. if your dealer cannot supply you with these items, been designed specifically for your machine. They are available at modest The following pages illustrate additional time saving attachments that have described earlier in this book. Your sewing machine comes equipped with the basic set of accessories

36 PART PART PART 7655i PART 7o55() g Hem me rs Attachment Foot Binder Edgestitcher PART PART PART Ruffler Darning Spring Cording & Zipper Foot PART 1403 PART 4990 PART 1873 qi SOME OF THE ATTACHMENTS AVAILABLE FOR YOUR MACHINE 35

37 fabric in slot 4. For instance, if you 67). The edgestitcher is used in making slot 1 and the lace in slot 4 (Fig. edge of fabric, place the fabric in are sewing lace edging to a finished the piece of material that will be on top in slot I (Fig. 67) and the lower lace and tucked strips together, place sew lace, lace and embroidery, or pieces of materiol. If you want to as guides in sewing together various The slots in the edgestitcher serve piping. dainty lace insertions, edgings and EDGESTITCHER Fig Fig The mounting slot enables you to sew as close to the attachment to the left as far as possible and the attachment to the correct position before tightening the mounting screw. tightening the screw. Mount binder, edgestitcher or hemmers by sliding or as far away from the edge as desired. Just move place it with the attachment foot. (Fig. 65) mers, it is necessary to remove the presser foot and re In order to attach binder, edgestitcher and the hem ATTACHMENT FOOT extreme left hand position. Be sure the needle positioning lever is in the ATTACHMENTS

38 Fg 70 Fig 71 Fig. 68 hundreds of other uses. See Figs. 68, 69, 70, and 71 far suggestions on how to use the edgestitcher. There are Slot 5 may be used as a guide in stitching a French seam. in slot 3, for a narrow piping place fabric in slot 2 and the folded edge of the piping to the Rick-rack can be sewn to the edge of the material in the same manner. the feed will carry it backward as you stitch. Hold the fabric in the left hand and the lace in the right, being sure the fabric overlaps the lace slightly. right in slot 3. Be sure to draw the ace and material under the needle and back of the edgestitcher so that To trim with wide piping place the fabric in slot 4, and the fold of the piping to the left 37

39 38 Fig.75 Fig. 73 tween widths, inserting each in correct size slot. of inches. Cut binding diagonally toward end, almost to of other uses. are hundreds cut opens and binding encircles open end of scroll. Test binder. There Cut inch bias binding fold in half for a couple how to use the gestions on stitching to be sure it is on the edge, adjust if necessary. fold. Slip fold into center of binder. Draw back until operation. When two are used, always skip one size be Two bindings can be sewn on fabric edge also in one TWO-TONE BINDING (F. 75) pin. Test stitching to be sure it is on the edge. Adjust by sliding binder to right or left. Cut folded binding to a point, finsert in appropriate See Figs. 72 and 73 for sug FOLDED BINDING (Fig. 74 HAND-CUT BIAS BINDING (Fig. 74) The open mouth of binder scroll is used for unfolded bias strips cut inch wide. Slots on scroll of the binder ore for corresponding widths of commercially folded bias binding. slot. Draw through slot arid under binder with strong This attachment folds bias binding and applies it to the edge of material in one operation. BINDER

40 and 82. hemmer you use. For a few of the many uses see Figs. 77, 78, , 81, You con make a hem i t or in width, depending upon which HEMMER SET hold at each end of fold. Slip fold into guide and Fold material to suit for two inches along edge, Fig 76 catch loop and carry upper thread to back of hemme r. ly under hemmer toward back. Bobbin thread will bobbin thread with bath hands and slip horizontal turn toward you, making a loop under hemmer. Grasp bin thread is pulled up. Then, with hemmer in place, hold top thread loosely arid turn handwheel one full up over spoon (Fig. 76). Fold hem in material back of hemmer. Draw forward to end of hem Before attaching any of the hemmers, be sure bob and fasten with point of needle. Pull on threads gently as you start stitching. THE SET OF HEMMERS 39

41 40 HEMMER SET /,.j 1 -v- VE Fig. 77 Fig Fig, 80 Fig 79 A

42 set foot so needle is centered in needle (Fig ). hole. Machine baste cord in place over cord. Loosen thumb screw and CORDING. Fold bias strip of fabric foot to either right or left of needle. zippers. Loosen thumb screw to slide insert covered cording, and to sew in This attachment is used to make and AND ZIPPER FOOT THE ADJUSTABLE CORDING convenient. sew from either right or left side, whichever is more zipper to allow easy opening ond closing. Ad 1ust to edge of foot (Fig. 85). StitEhing should be close to center of needle hole. Guide metal of zipper along Loosen thumb screw and slide foot so needle enters SEWING IN ZIPPER of bose fabric. foot so needle stitches closer to cord, and on edge To sew covered cord to material, reset ad1ustable Fig. 8.4 Fig 83 L5 41

43 42 ADJUSTABLE CORDING AND ZIPPER FOOT Fig. 86 Fig. 87 Fig. 88

44 Fig. 89A Fig. 90A Fig. 91A a dress etc. Use the ruffler for making aprons, Curtains, pleating ci skirt, adding fullness to the bodice of This highly versatile attachment despite its wide range of use, is simple to use. Ruffling can also be done and sewn to another piece of fabric at the same time. The ruffler will produce yards of delicate ruffling or precision pleating. Fig. 89 Fig. 90 Fig. 9 /-. W - 1 rrj RUFFLER 43

45 44 RUFFLER Fig, 92 Fig. 93 Fig. 96 Fig. 94 Fig. 95

46 with fabric strips under each marking, Stitch around the outlines then tear paper away. the buttonholes on one long strip of tissue paper. Pin this pattern to position on the garment To make a row of buttonholes evenly spaced and accurately stitched, draw the outlines for EVENLY SPACED BUTTONHOLES Fig. 98 Trim seam allowance close to line of stitching. Turn and press. the seam outline with a narrow zigzag stitch. facings, and yokes, seam allowance that would ordinarily show through is eliminated by following When a dainty hair line finish is particularly desirable for the inside seams of sheer collars, SEWING TIPS 45

47 46 bock of the presser foot as shown at right. straight stitch throat plate and presser font and apply giirte lension y hotdirs, front and sheers, crepes, knits, tricots, etc., require support while being stitched. For such fabric use the Most fabrics need to be guided only in front of the presser foot as shown at left, Many flimsy SEWING ON SHEER MATERIALS Fig. 102 / Fig. 101 raw edges close to stitching. marking line from point to wide end of dart. Trim both lap cut edges, matching dart lines. Zigzag stitch along Cut interfacing down center between dart lines. Over - Fig. 99 / 1/ Center Fg. WO 36 3 Th SHAPING DARTS IN INTERFACINGS

48 MAcHINE under SIDE OF / 4EJ PORTADLt BASE On the base you will find two head hinges C which will fit into holes B. lower the base onto Tighten screws A securely with a screw driver. the back. the sewing machine fitting hinges C into holes B. designed to make sewing a pleasure. familiar with the threading of the machine, entering head hinge holes B on the underside of to sew. But first read the instruction book to becr Ime table. You will see two clamping screws A certain to take Out the instruction book, guarantee inside the base to avoid damage in shipping. First, remove the foot control which is fastened into a wall outlet ( volts) and you are ready sewing machine in its portable case. and accessory box, lay the unit face down on a cord into the light receptacle. were written to aid you in placing your new After unpacking the sewing machine unit, being the outer section of the base. Then insert the other Plug the cord labeled Motor into the recepta- the base. two wires through the slot in the partition of cle marked Motor on the block attached to Please read these important instructions which Place the foot control on the floor, insert plug iension adjustments and all the other features To make the electrical connection draw the INSTALLING SEWING HEAD IN PORTABLE CASE 47

49 STU EG WING NUT 3. Add wing nut and tighten securely. 2. Slip leg into position between corner blocks and down as far as it will go with stud fitting into slot or hole in metal bracket. vent marking top.) Place cabinet body upside down on smooth level surface (use packing material as cushion to pre TO ASSEMBLE LEGS ON CABINET 48

50 INSTALLING SEWING HEAD IN CB3NET Loosen head hinge set screws unt rieod hinge hole is clear. 2. Tilt head hinge fingers up and back as far as they will go. 3. Carefully slip head onto head hinges - - making sure fingers are inserted as far as they can go into head hinge ho es. 4. Allow the head to rest in its tiltedback posit K)n. 5. Tighten bath set screws securely with screw driver. 6. Plug electrical leads into sockets located inside cabinet. Card identified with motor tag must be plugged into socket marked motor Untagged cord goes to light socket.