FEATURES AND PARTS Reverse Button. 1. Thread Take-up Lever. 10. Fly Wheel Clutch 20. Face Plate. 2. Pressure Release (Darning) 11.

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2 Pattern Selector Dial 3. Top Plate Thread Guide 6. Handle 8. Zigzag Width Control Dial 9. Bobbin Winder 2. Pressure Release (Darning) 4. Tension Regulator 5. Top Plate 7. Needle Position and 12. Stitch Length Control Dial 14. Drop Feed (under Shuttle Cover) 18. Thread Guide 11. Fly Wheel 15. Shuttle Race Cover 17. Needle Plate 1. Thread Take-up Lever 10. Fly Wheel Clutch 13. Reverse Button 16. Feed Dog 19. Thread Guide Presser Foot Thumb Screw Presser Foot 27. Presser Bar Lifter 28. Motor and Belt Cover Needle Clamp Thread Cutter Face Plate 25. Spool Pins 26. Light Switch FEATURES AND PARTS

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4 3 shown in diagram above. outlet. Connect outlet plug to electrical outlet. After sewing, disconnect plug from electrical foot control and wiring. Connect special plug to block on machine as When sewing, keep children s hands away from Begin sewing by turning the hand wheel toward Sewing at a constant speed will give best results. foot pedal. you and apply gradually increasing pressure to TO CONNECT THE FOOT CONTROL WIRES: TO USE THE FOOT PEDAL: USING THE FOOT CONTROL

5 4 items such as flared pant legs. over the tubular bed of sewing flat items, and for sewing large tubular all the advantages of a flat bed machine for The free arm design When the extension plate is attached, you have FLAT BED SEWING Fig. 2 the machine and sew. Simply position these items pant cuffs, shirt and blouse cuffs and socks. tubular items such as simplifies the sewing of TUBULAR SEWING DOWN: Clockwise UP: Counter-Clockwise install it into the cabinet. when you use it on the table or Level your sewing machine LEVELING THE MACHINE extension plate. on tubular bed, and pull to the left to remove the shown in Fig. 2, engage fittings on plate with pin By sliding extension plate on tubular bed, as TO ATTACH AND REMOVE THE EXTENSION PLATE: USING THE EXTENSION PLATE FREE ARM FEATURES

6 5 straight. needle, lay needle on a flat position. alignment. back of machine m Flat side towards. Needle - Clamp Screw I Flat side CHANGING THE NEEDLE in above diagram. straight and parallel as shown Always make sure needle is To check straightness of surface and see that needle is with screwdriver. Tighten needle clamp screw in the above diagram. flat side of needle is towards far as it will go, making sure and insert needle upward as back of machine as shown insertion of twin needle. raise needle bar to its highest Turn hand wheel toward you to Loosen needle clamp screw Follow the same procedure for may be incorrectly inserted. If skipped stitches occur, needle tion when checking needle in straight stitch needle posi see that needle comes down hand wheel toward you and through the center of the as shown in the above diagram. been inserted correctly, turn needle hole in the needle plate Stitch selector dial must be set To make sure that needle has

7 6 under the presser foot. makes it easier to place fabric presser foot. The extra lift for heavy fabric as shown. position and raise presser foot Raise needle bar to highest Press button on back of presser It is not necessary to loosen from shank as shown above. foot shank and foot will drop THE PRESSER FOOT: TO REMOVE the thumb screw to change to foot as shown above. shank as shown above. shank will automatically attach Align desired presser foot to Lower presser foot lever and THE PRESSER FOOT: TO ATTACH lift Extra CHANGING THE PRESSER FOOT

8 WINDING THE BOBBIN TO DISENGAGE THE HAND WHEEL: Hold the hand wheel (1) with left hand, turn clutch (2) counterclockwise with right hand to disengage as shown. TO WIND THREAD ONTO BOBBIN: Lead thread through spring thread guide (4) and through the hole in your bobbin from the inside out. Place the bobbin onto the bobbin winder shaft (3). Push the bobbin winder to the right. Hold loose end of thread firmly and turn hand wheel to make thread tight. Apply gradual pressure on foot pedal until automatic shut off disengages bobbin winder. Cut off loose end of thread. 7

9 8 Raise needle bar to its highest position. Bobbin Remove bobbin from bobbin case by releasing Open shuttle race cover, pull bobbin case latch shown above. with two fingers and remove bobbin case as at low position. case cannot be removed when needle bar is TO REMOVE THE BOBBIN FROM BOBBIN CASE: CHANGING BOBBINS latch. - Notch - Latch Latch Pull thread at least 3 inches from bobbin. Thread bobbin as shown on page 9. TO ATTACH THE BOBBIN CASE: position, insert bobbin case into shuttle race by holding bobbin case latch. Make sure bobbin Making sure that needle bar is at its highest case finger is inside shuttle notch. Press bobbin case into shuttle as far as possible until latch catches on center post of the shuttle.

10 case counterclockwise to Turn screw on side of bobbin Turn screw on side of bobbin clockwise. bobbin. Insert bobbin in bobbin Fig. 1 Pull thread at least 3 inches from THREADING THE BOBBIN CASE case so that thread will unravel spring and into the fork-shaped opening of the spring as shown tension. Tension Spring case as shown in Fig. 2. Thread Slot Fig, 2 Pull thread into slot of bobbin bobbin case finger as shown in in Fig. 3. Draw thread under the tension Fig. 4 Pull thread through hole in Fig. 4. (Recommended for zigzag sewing only) 9 decrease tension. case clockwise to increase TO ADJUST BOBBIN TENSION: Fig. 5

11 10 7 cotton thread on top will result in poor tension cause tension problems. Example: Polyester thread on the bobbin and bottom as different sizes or types of thread will 6 quality. guide (5), hooking thread into guide. and through needle hole from front to rear (7). from right to left and down through face plate and between tension discs (2). and up to take-up lever (4). Lead thread through top plate thread guide (1) Always use the same type of thread on top and Raise presser foot. UPPER THREADING Raise needle bar to its highest position. Pull thread down around arm thread guide (3) Lead thread through eyelet on take-up lever Pull thread down through needle clamp guide (6)

12 needle eyes. lower position. needle plate and break. Sewing on Button. Press drop feed button AA to Press drop feed button A1ocated under shuttle cover, Lower position is used for Embroidering, Mending or through the right disc. both spool pins. to upper position. To raise teed dog. these exceptions. (TWIN NEEDLE UPPER THREADING) ADJUSTING FEED DOG HEIGHT Upper position of feed dog is used for normal sewing. I II II ii ii II I II I II II II STITCH LENGTH: Set at desired stitch length. 3, if you set dial higher than 3, the needle will hit the ZIGZAG DIAL: Set at desired width between 0 and Pass thread through the left disc and one thread separate the threads at the tension. Place thread, matching or contrasting in color, on Follow threading instruction for single needle with Draw threads through thread guides as normal, but Now treat both threads as one until you reach the 11

13 REGULATING PRESSURE 12 V presser foot approximately This will prevent jamming. 6 inches. thread to the left of Pull both upper and lower lower bobbin thread. highest position, pull thread to pick up loop of you one rotation. When take-up lever is at its Raise presser foot. Holding upper thread, turn hand wheel toward PICKING-UP LOWER BOBBIN THREAD on bulky fabrics, such as wools, and on knits. Pressure should be decreased. This often happens Normally the pressure cap will be in the lowest to its maximum height. Then reset to the proper lock ring (2) to allow the pressure cap to return decrease the pressure, press down on the snap pressure cap to obtain the desired setting. To To increase the pressure, push down on the pressure. gives maximum pressure. least amount of pressure while the lowest position out further than the bottom layer of fabric, pressure cap (1). The upper position gives the fabric by the presser foot is adjusted by the position. If the top layer of fabric tends to push The amount of pressure that is applied to the

14 ADJUSTING UPPER TENSION // r//z.?///,//z, / 1/, Fig. I r /. j//h / Proper Tension FIg. 2 \\/ Upper Thread Tension Too Loose \ \\\\\ \\\\\\\ \\ \ Fig Upper Thread Tension Too Tight To increase upper tension, turn upper tension regulator to higher number. To decrease upper tension, turn upper tension regulator to lower number. Turning tension regulator from 0 to 9 will increase tension. Normal sewing is performed between 4 and 5. A perfect straight stitch will be formed with both threads interlocking in fabric as shown in Fig. 1. When using the zig zag stitch for embroidery (satin stitching), decrease upper tension so that top surface will look smooth at the expense of the bottom surface. Note: Normal stitches will be performed on the red zone at 4, 5 and 6 for regular cotton threads. 13

15 MEDIUM WEIGHT gingham, percale, linen, chintz, I faille, cordi,oy, satin, velvet, suitings, wools, pique, 90/14 90 Mercerized 50 MEDIUM HEAVY KNITS double DELICATE lawn, crepe, taffeta European tulle, NEEDLE (Long Scarf) FABRIC THREAD STITCH LENGTH chiffon, voile, fine lace, organdy, Knits sheer tricot light ball point Fine Synthetics LIGHTWEIGHT 75/11 I 80 LEATHERS double knit power net, bathing light or medium Synthetic suits ball point LEATHERS plastic vinyls, gabardine, - LEATHERS vinyls, plastics Wedge point 14 HEAVY overcoatings, KNITS tricot, brushed tricot, jerseys, synthetic KNITS jersey, - silk, crepe, chiffon, velvet leathers, powernet A Silk terry I European 30 A SiIk film, vinyls -Wedge point 2.1/2 3 canvas, upholstery, awning 110/ tweed sailcloth, duck, denim, coatings, wools, drapery. plastic film Wedge point 2-1/2 light bail point Fine Synthetics batiste, organdy, voile, taffeta, knit, power net heavy ball point I Fine mercerized A Silk 65/9 1 Fine mercerized 60 11/4 1-3/4 HA 1 130/705H uropean European /16 I 100 Mercerized 50 I Heavy Duty Mercerized Synthetic European /2 A Silk - Heavy Duty Mercerized Synthetic 1-3/ /4 2 FABRIC, THREAD, NEEDLE AND STITCH LENGTH GUIDE KNITS fake furs, velours, sweater heavy ball point European /2 LEATHER vinyl, rubber backed drapery fabric Wedge point 2-1/

16 needle position. length of stitches. turn dial to higher number. at same length as forward stitch. clockwise. tacking. either clockwise or counter Selector dial can be turned I1 11/Th\ //\\. FUNCTIONS OF CONTROLS NEEDLE POSITION AND PATTERN SELECTOR DIAL j I Numbers on dial denote To increase length of stitch, positions 0 and 3 on the needle plate). When twin needle is used, select a higher number. zigzag must be limited between position higher than 3 will result in needle striking For wider zigzag stitch, ZIGZAG WIDTH CONTROL DIAL dial (use of twin needle in 15 position by turning hand wheel toward you. Raise needle bar to highest Select desired pattern and allow you to sew reverse stitch Keeping button pressed in will Use for reverse stitching or STITCH LENGTH CONTROL DIAL STITCH LENGTH GUIDE Numbers on dial Stitches No per inch Feed I I REVERSE STITCH BUTrON:

17 SELECTING NEEDLE POSITION STRAIGHT STITCHING. 3 2 Needle Position Selector and Zigzag Width Control Dial Stitch Length Control Dial Right Middle Left Three different needle positions, 1 left, 2 middle and 3 right can be selected. Also, those intermediate positions between left and middle and right can be selected with the dial at the middle between 1 2 and 2 3 as shown Above indicates the left hand needle position indicates the middle needle position indicates the right hand needle position Set the stitch length control dial to the desired stitch length (0 4). Set the zigzag width control knob to 0 position. Set the needle position dial to 2 position. Zigzag Foot Straight Stitch Presser Fool 16

18 17 fabric. until the take up lever is at its draw the fabric gently to the threads. highest position. sure that the threads are under pull down firmly to cut the cutter on the presser bar and the foot. This avoids bending threads up and into the thread After stopping the machine, Raise the presser foot, then With two hands, lift the two p4 REMOVING THE MATERIAL: turn the hand wheel toward you the needle. left rear of the machine, making bulk easily. the heavy area into the feeding HEAVY SEAMS: CROSSING tion, lower the presser foot point making sure that the Note: When sewing with a twin stop the machine at the desired and continue sewing. realign the fabric to the position needle is down through the the fabric to the desired posi needle, it is necessary to raise the needles above the fabric before turning. Be cautious to where the last stitch ends. Before changing direction, Raise the presser foot, turn CHANGING DIRECTION OF SEWING: mechanism and pass over the foot so that the foot can draw angle the fabric down into the When crossing heavy seams,

19 (SINGLE NEEDLE SEWING) Zigzag Foot 54 ZIGZAG STITCHING 18 alternately. quickly the control width controls Turn regulated by zigzag Zigzag width can be return to 0. (Repeat) move from 0 to 5 and knob 0 and 5. Craduaiiy zigzag width restricting Set the indicators of SINGLE NEEDLE ZIGZAG STITCH PATTERNS Zigzag Width Control Dial Set the needle position dial in the free position. Single Needle Sewing Set the zigzag width control knob from to 1 5. Set the stitch length control dial from to 4. 1 Now you can start sewing as you wish. left hand needle position. Needle Position: Set at 1 followed same way as single needle Note: Upper threading for twin needle is Set at desired stitch length. STITCH LENGTH: needle plate and breaks. If you use beyond 3, needle hits the Set at desired width between 0 and 3. ZIGZAG DIAL: of Flat side (TwIN NEEDLE SEWING) Zigzag Width Control Dial Twin Needle Sewing

20 Zigzag Foot Zigzag Width Control Dial Control Dial Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Mending a Tear THREE STEP ZIGZAG STITCHING 19 the regular zigzag. Length i Width 1 1/2. such as in the inside of a collar. foot so that stitches catch evenly on both sides. A reinforcing Mending a tear guide the tear along the center of the pressure fabrics and knits. fabric (interfacing) may be used underneath if desired. reinforce corners. Make patches round where possible or overlap corner stitching to and facings lie flat on the inside of garments. Short stitch length for flat or woven fabrics and longer for dense Stitch length should depend on the type of fabric being used. Use the same technique to make a butted seam for interfacing Three step zigzag for overcasting provides a smoother edge than Understitchirig facings with the three step zigzag provides less bulk Patches are applied more permenantly with the three step zigzag. VARIOUS USES: ir.

21 20 Fold the fabric as shown and insert into the guide on the application and the hem will never need repairing. With a little practice it will be a very quick and easy hem It is done easily with straight or slightly curved hems. Turn hand wheel manually until needle is in the farthest position The blind hem stitch provides a durable hem finish to the left and make sure that needle just catches the edge of the For knits eliminate the first 1/4 inch fold. foot. fold. Sew at slower speed, keeping fabric fold along the guide of presser foot. Set the controls as shown on the diagram above, and attach the proper presser foot. PROCEDURE: that is almost invisible on garmentsdrapes,and curtains. Bltnd Hem Zigzag Width Control Dial Control Dial Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Zigzag Foot LJ 75\ BLIND STITCHING

22 21 to knit fabrics. The two tiny zigzag stitches enable the hem Elastic Blind Hem I % inch fold. foot. fold. Sew at slower speed, keeping fabric fold along the guide of presser foot. Control Dial Pattern Selector and Stitch Length ELASTIC BLIND STITCHING Turn hand wheel manually until needle is in the farthest position For knits use the elastic blind hem and eliminate the first The elastic blind hem stitch gives a stretch, durable hem finish to the left and make sure that needle just catches the edge of the proper presser foot. Fold the fabric as shown and insert into the guide on the Set the controls as shown on the diagram above, and attach the PROCEDURE: to stretch with the fabric. It may also prevent woven fabrics from raveling. Z.gzag Width Control Dial

23 22 it will cause poor stitching. front. Do not pull or push as Guide your fabric from the Zigzag Fool Elastic Triple Straight Stitch Patlern Selector and ZiQzag Width Control Dial Stitch Length Control Dial L /<7N. II ELASTIC TRIPLE STITCHING (STRAIGHT) in the fabric and be difficult to remove. Note: Always fit your garment before seaming with this stitch as this stitch will bury itself such as ski pants, girdles and bathing suits. Use this stitch for tightly fitted garments that need a lot of stretch, If puckering becomes a problem, use the straight stitch foot. seam and under arm for example). Apply this stitch to areas of stress on both wovens and knits (crotch will not hold its shape and the straight stitch will break. This stitch is especialy useful where the tiny zigzag seam (slacks for example). of stitching is desired so that seams may be pressed open The elastic triple straight stitch is used when a straight line PROCEDURE:

24 23 stitching. Elastic Triple Zigzag Stitch IIIH-l terrycloth, and for attaching elastic. Use also for decorative IHI In ii?i 7I of seams, facings and hems cf heavier weight fabrics such as A decorative topstitch can be produced with the rick-rack stitch. Apply this stitch to areas of stress on both woverts and knits. Use medium and wide widths of zigzag for overcasting edges seams. Use narrow width of zigzag as a heavy duty triple stitch for Stitch around the structural lines of the garment for a special effect. PROCEDURE: Zigzag Width Control Dial Control Dial Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Zigzag Foot poor stitching. Do not pull or push as it will cause Guide your fabric from the front. ELASTIC TRIPLE STITCHING (ZIGZAG)

25 Zigzag Width Control Dial Control Dial Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Zigzag Foot Fagoting SheePaper Overlap seam IRICOI STITCHING 24 Fagoting can be achieved by joining the folded edge of two pieces Do the fagoting with a piece of paper underneath and remove the paper by hand washing. of fabric together with a gap between them. Use a sheer flesh called smocking. The tricot stitch is a very useful special ultra-stretch stitch Lingerie or tricot seams should only be about 1/8 inch finished width. colored piece of fabric underneath to make the fagoting much stronger and prettier. PROCEDURE:

26 25 Three Step Zigzag Overcasting Note: The three step zigzag stitch can also be used for overcasting. some fabrics this method is preferable. edge of the needle hole as shown. seam. Then trim off the excess fabric close to the stitching. On fabric along the 1/2 guide line on the needle plate and sew your For a finished 1/4 seam, guide your fabric at the right hand double knit and jersey and will give a firm, neat edge finish. This overlock stitch is especially good for stretch fabrics such as When your pattern calls for a 5/8 seam allowance, guide your 5 Overcasting knit fabrics, all in one operation. Overlock stitching is used for seaming and finishing the cut edge of PROCEDURE: Zigzag Width Control Dial Control Dial Pattern Selector and Stitch Length IIl ZIgzag Foot IIH. OVERLOCK STITCHING (OVERCASTING)

27 26 cap half way. 11 S.am RIpper Attach buttonhole foot to machine with red markings to the left. Pull buttonhole box forward until it is fully extended and position If buttonholes appear too dense for knit fabrics, release the preure color. Example: Red buttonholes on white fabric. To add an extra beauty to buttonholes, use a constrasting thread the buttonhole cycle a second time to make a very dense buttonhole. EXAGGERATED BUTTONHOLE may be made by running through side looks like the right side. The reverse stitching is pre-set. over tape as shown above. between. tape and use chalk to mark the cutting line. your garment. Use a double layer of fabric with interfacing thread so that the button hole blends with the fabric. Always make a sample buttonhole on the same fabric used to make Mark the starting and ending position of your buttonholes with Proceed as on page 27 Sewing Buttonholes. If buttonhole appears uneven, turn stitch length dial until the left INVISIBLE BUTTON HOLE may be made by using matching Pull Buttonhole Foot Invisible PROCEDURE: Control Dial Zigzag Width Control Dial Pattern Selector and Stitch Length Buttonhole Foot Chalk line BUTTONHOLE PREPARATION E xagge rated

28 BUTTONHOLES ON LIGHTWEIGHT OR KNIT FABRICS 0. Cord String Cord String l ii J Fig. 1 Place cord strng over tab on presser foot as shown. Fig. 2 Position fabric in sewing area and attach button hole foot to the machine. Sew the buttonhole so that stitching covers cord string. Pull Cord String Fig. 3 After finishing the buttonhole, remove the foot from the fabric, draw the loop of the cord string up to the bar tack, tie the loose ends and trim the balance. 27

29 PROCEDURE: Other Applications n:oot 28 snaps, etc. directly with the left hole in your button. Check alignment by position and make 3 4 stitches to tie off your button. turning hand wheel and watching needle. Place button under button foot such that the needle is aligned Run machine slowly and make 7 8 stitches. With needle in left hole return zigzag width knob to the 0 knob until needle aligns with the right hole in the button. 1 position. Set drop feed button position with the needle position selector Bring the needle slightly above the button and turn stitch width Apply the above method to sewing on buttons with four holes, hooks, Zigzag Width Control Dial Control Drl Needle Position Selector and Stitch Length

30 and press down on outer ring of the pressure regulator design by moving the fabric and hoop in a side 29 obtain the desired setting. button, and push down on the pressure cap to darning and a monogramming hoop. reinforce the starting point Place under needle of fabric into an embroidery, a With the width at 0 make 5 or 6 stitches to To return feed to normal, press AA drop feed motion. To fill the design, move the fabric and hoop from side to side in a rhythmic motion. to release pressure completely. For tree-motion sewing, press drop feed button, At the desired zigzag width stitch to outline the DARMNG PROCEDURE: Zigzag Widtfl Control Dial Control Dial Needle Position Selector and Stitch Length MONOG RAMM ING EMBROIDERING

31 SEWING ON ZIPPERS Regular Zipper Foot Fig. I Needle PosItion Selector and Zigzag Width Control Dial Stitch Length Control Dial PROCEDURE: Set the needle position at 1 or 3 as needed to sew the right side or the left side of zipper respectively, so that the foot sews very close to the zipper teeth. (Fig. 1) Set the needle position at 3 and make the welting by sandwiching the cord into a bias strip of fabric. Stitch close to cord. (Fig. 2) Set the needle position at 1 Sandwich the?ig. 3. welting between two layers of fabric with right sides together. Stitch a second time. The needle stitches close to the cord through all thicknesses (Fig. 3) Attach zipper foot and adjust position depending on which side of zipper foot you wish to use. Open the zipper and place it face down on the back side of the fabric with the zipper teeth along the fabric edge. 30

32 QUILTING Zigzag Fool Quilting Guide Needle Position Selector and Zigzag Width Control Dial Stitch Length Control Dial PROCEDURE: Insert the quilter guide bar into the notch under the spring on the shank and adjust the position according to the desired distance between quilting seams. Stitches are easily aligned Ly guiding the quilter guide along the previous seam line. 31

33 CARE AND MAINTENANCE A majority of service calls can be avoided by proper care of your machine. This involves three important steps. 1. Cleaning Give your machine a light cleaning after each garment is completed. For light cleaning brush lint from feed dogs, needle bar and hook, and oil hook. A more extensive cleaning and oiling can be done every two months. 2. Oiling Use sewing machine oil only. Do not use any other household oils, as they will eventually cause problems with the machine. Oil every two months, or more often if machine is in constant use. 3. Proper Use of Needles Always use the proper needle for your fabric and thread. Change needles often, as they dull quickly especially on synthetic fabrics. If you are having a problem, before calling the service man: 1. Check to see that the machine is threaded properly. 2. Replace the needle and make sure it is attached correctly. 3. Be sure that the bobbin is wound evenly. 32

34 V CLEANING THE MACHINE Caution: Before cleaning the machine be sure to disconnect the power cord from the wall outlet. CLEANING AND OILING THE HOOK ASSEMBLY Raise the needle bar to the highest position. Open the hinged shuttle cover and remove the bobbin case with bobbin. Remove lint or dust with a soft cloth or lint brush. Use only the oil in the accessory box. Replace bobbin case (See page 8 for instructions). CLEANING FEED DOGS Lint or dust accumulated between the needle plate and the feed dogs must be removed to maintain good operation of the machine. Raise the needle barto the highest position and remove the needle and presser foot. Loosen screw on the bed cover plate and remove the plate. Clean lint and dust from the bottom of the needle plate and the feed dogs with a lint brush. Turn the hand wheel slowly and be sure to clean all areas. Replace the removed plate. 33

35 OJUNG OIL OIL OIL OIL OIL OIL OIL OIL Using the large screw driver in the accessory box, remove the two screws on the top plate and remove plate. OIL OIL Swing open hinged face plate. Apply one drop of oil at all points indicated by arrows. Remove screw on the bed cover plate and apply oil while turning the hand wheel. 34